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ByEDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS.

GREAT BRITAIN, with 14 Maps and 24 Plans. 1887. lOmarks.

LONDON and ITS ENVIRONS, with 3 Maps and 15 Plans.

Seventh Edition. 1889. 6 marks.

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Ninth Edition. 1888. 6 marks.

THE RHINE from Rotterdam to Constance (the Seven

Mountains, Moselle, Volcanic Eifel, Vosges Mts., Black Fobest,
etc.), with 36 Maps and 22 Plana. Eleventh Edition. 1889. 6 marks.

NORTHERN GERMANY, with 32 Maps and 42 Plans.
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THE EASTERN ALPS, including the Bavarian High-
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. 188S. 8 marks.

12 Plans

GREECE,

1889.
NORTHED

LAND C
land, el

CENTRAL

Panorai
Edition

SOUTHED

Lipajv

Corfu
NORWAY

Edition

PARIS an

TO I'AK

NORTHED -ix^w-,

Panorama of Athens.

10 marks.
3RENCE AND THE Is-
thkouqhFkance, Switzek-
ith Edition. 1889. 6 marks.
10 Maps, 31 Plans, a

Forum Romanum. Tenth
6 marks.

Excursions to the
Sardinia, Malta, «»>

h Edition. 1890. 6 marks.

i and 13 Plans Fourth
9 marks.

,OUTES FROM LONDON
h Edition. 1888. 6 marks.

and 25 Plans. 1889.

7 marks.

SWITZERLAND, and the adjacent Parts of Italy

SAVOY, and the TYROL, with 38 Maps, 11 Plans, and 11 Panoramas,
Thirteenth Edition. 1889. 8 marks.

LOWER EGYPT, with the Fayum and the Peninsula of

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Edition. 1885. 16 marks,

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CONVERSATION DICTIONARY in four languages: Eng-
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THE TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, vt

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NORWAY AND SWEDEN.

Money Table.

(Comp. p. xv.)

kr.

—

l'/»

—

22/3

—

5'/s

—

C-Vs

—

9'/3

—

10*3

—

l'/s

—

Measures.

English
Feet

Norweg.
Feet

Swedish
Feet

0,97

0,94

0,97

1,02

1,029

1,05

1,84

2,05

2,91

3,08

3,88

4,10

4,85

5,13

5,82

6,16

6,80

7,18

7,77

8,21

8,74

9,24

9,71

10,26

48,50

51,30

97,h

| 102,65

English
Miles

Kilo-
metres

1
2
3
4
5
G

6,64

9
10
14
20
21

1.609
3.218
4.827
6.436
8.045
9.654
10.683
11.263
12.872
14.481
16.090
22.526
32.180
33.789

Norweg.
Miles

Swedish
Miles

0,1424

0,28

0,43

0,57

0,71

0,85

0,94

1,14

1,28

1,42

2,85

0,1505

0,30

0,45

0,60

0,75

,35

,50

2,10

3,15

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1:2.000.000

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NORWAY AND SWEDEN.

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

K. BAEDEKER.

WITH 23 MAPS AND 13 PLANS.
FOURTH REVISED EDITION.

LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER.
LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W.

1889.

'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'

PREFACE.

J. he object of the Handbook for Norway and Sweden,
which now appears for the fourth time, is to supply the tra-
veller with information regarding the most interesting scenery
and physical characteristics of these countries , and with a
few notes on the history, languages, and customs of the in-
habitants. Like the Editor's other handbooks, it is based on
his personal acquaintance with the country described, a great
part of which he has himself explored, visiting the most im-
portant places repeatedly. His exertions to secure the accu-
racy and completeness of the work have been supplemented
by the kind assistance of several gentlemen, Norwegian, Swe-
dish, English, and German, to whom his grateful acknowled-
gements are due. If, however, any of the statements in the
Handbook should be found erroneous or defective , he will
gratefully receive any corrections or suggestions with which
travellers may favour him.

The traveller will effect a considerable saving both of time
and money by preparing an outline of his tour before leaving
home, but the details cannot be finally adjusted until the
latest local time-tables have been consulted. The most im-
portant of these are 'Norges Communicationer' for Norway
(25 ».) and 'Sveriges Kommunikationer' for Sweden (10 o.),
both issued weekly in summer at Christiania and Stockholm
respectively, but these publications, the latter in particular,
are far from complete, containing no mention of many of the
small steamboats which ply on the remoter fjords, lakes, and
rivers. An excellent itinerary for the southern districts of
Norway is the 'Lomme-Keiseroute' (usually published in
June, price 1 kr. 50 ».).

On the Maps and Plans of the most important districts
and towns the utmost care has been bestowed, and it is hoped
that they will be found to suffice for all ordinary travellers.

Heights are given approximately in English feet (1 Norw.
ft. = 1.029 Engl. ft. ; 1 Sw. ft. = 0.974 Engl. ft.). Distan-
ces are given in kilometres, as the tariffs for carrioles and
boats are now calculated on the metrical system (comp.
pp. xxii. xxin). The Populations and other statistics are
given from the most recent official sources.

First-class Hotels, though much less numerous in Norway
and Sweden than in more densely peopled countries , are to

vi PREFACE.

be found in many of the larger towns , while in the smaller
towns and country districts there are inns (Norw. Ojmstgive-
rier , Sw. gcistgifvaregardar) , posting-stations (Norw. Skyds-
stationer, Sw. skjutsstationer) , and farm-houses (Norw. Bonde-
f/aarde, Sw. bondegardar), the proprietors of which are bound
to receive travellers and to provide them with horses when-
ever required. The accommodation at these country inns or
stations is usually unpretending, but they are generally clean,
and the charges are very moderate. In the Introduction and
throughout the Handbook the ordinary items of expenditure
are given approximately. The landlords are a much more in-
dependent class than the innkeepers of most other countries,
being in many cases substantial farmers or shopkeepers , a
very small proportion of whose livelihood is derived from
innkeeping.

To the Languages of Norway and Sweden , the former
in particular , an unusually ample space has been allotted
(see removable cover at the end of the volume) , partly on the
ground that a slight knowledge of them is essential to the
complete success of the traveller's tour, and partly because
they are not included in any of the ordinary manuals of con-
versation.

Lovers of Sport will still find considerable scope for their
favourite pursuits both in Norway and Sweden , but seldom
without deviating from the beaten track of tourists , and un-
dergoing some privations. A number of the places where the
best shooting and fishing are obtainable are mentioned in
the Handbook.

To hotel-keepers , tradesmen, and others the Editor begs
to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards tra-
vellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, and that
advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded from his
Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons
representing themselves as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks.

CONTENTS.

Introduction.

Page

I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office xv

II. Plan of Tour xvi

III. Conveyances xix

IV. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Club xxiii

V. Hotels and Inns xxiv

VI. National Character xxvii

VII. Maps xxviii

VIII. Topographical Nomenclature xxix

IX. Physical Geography of Scandinavia xxx

Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line . . . . xxx

Mountains, Lakes, and Rivers xxxv

Climate and Vegetation xxxviii

Animal Kingdom. Population xli

X. History of Sweden and Norway xlii

Prehistoric Period xlii

Transition to the Historical Period xliii

Norway before the Union xliv

Sweden before the Union lii

Transition to the Union lvi

The Union lviii

Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar Union.

Literature lxii

The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark. Literature lxx

Union of Sweden and Norway lxxv

Literature lxxviii

Chronological Table lxxix

XI. Outlines of Norwegian and Swedish Grammar, at the
end of the volume.

Norway.

Route Page

1. Christiania and Environs 1

Oscarshall. Hovede. Ekeberg. Frognersaeter. . . 10-12

2. From Christiania to the Randsfjord by Drammen and

Hougsund 14

1. From Sandviken to Krogkleven and Htfnefos .... 14

2. From Lier to the Tyrifjord. Svangstrandsvei .... 16

3. From Vikersund to St. Olafs-Bad 18

3. From (Christiania) Hougsund to Kongsberg and the

Rjukanfos 19

From the Rjukanfos to Odde or to Eidfjord on the Har-

danger Fjord 24

From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the

Numedal 24

viii CONTENTS.

Route Page

4. From Christiania to Odde. Telernarken 26

£a. Via, Kongsberg 26

1. From MosebU to Dale in the Maanelv Valley 27

2. Ascent of the Vindegg 27

3. From Botten to Stavanger 29

b. Via Skien 31

1. From Skien to the Hitterdal (Rjukanfos) 34

2. From Hvideseid to Tvedestrand or Arendal 34

3. From Bandakslid to the Fyrisvand. Lille Rjukanfos . 35

5. From Christiania to Christiansand 36

From Langesund to Porsgrund and Skien 38

6. Christiansand and Environs 39

From Christiansand to Ekersund (by land) 40

The S*tersdal 40

7. From Christiansand to Stavanger. The Stavanger Fjord 42

a. The Lysefjord 46

b. The Sandsfjord and Hylsfjord 46

c. From Sand to R^ldal and Odde via the Suledalsvand . 47

d. The Saudefjord 49

e. The Sandeidfjord 50

8. From Stavanger to Bergen 50

9. The Hardanger Fjord 54

1. From Skjelnses to the Maurangerfjord. Bondhusbrse . . 56

2. From the Maurangerfjord across the Folgefond to Odde 56

3. From Jondal to the Sjurdalsfos and to the Stfrfjord . . 57

4. From Norheimsund to the Aadlandfjord via Eikedal . . 58

5. The Fiksensund. From Botnen to Vossevangen ... 58

6. From Eide to Ulvik 59

7. From Ulvik to Ose. Osefjord. Osedal 60

8. From Ulvik to Aurland 60

From Ulvik-Brakenses to Vik i 0ifjord 61

Excursions from Vik. Veringsfos. Simodal .... 61-63
From Vik i 0ifjord to Odde. Excursions from Odde . 63-69

10. Bergen and Environs 69

11. From Bergen to Vossevangen and on to Eide on the

Hardangerfjord or to Grudvangen on the Sognefjord 78

12. From Christiania through the Hallingdal to Laerdalseren

on the Sognefjord (Bergen) 81

1. From Nses to Lake Spirillen 83

2. From Viko to the Valders Route 84

3. From Ekre to the Valders Route ... . . . 84

4. From Tuf to Nystuen 85

5. From Tufte to the Hallingskarven 86

13. From Christiania through the Valders to Lserdalsaren

on the Sognefjord 88

a. Via Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund 88

b. Via the Randsfjord to Odnaes and thence by carriage

to L*rdals«rren (Bergen) 91

1. Hvidhjafd and Kvaleh#gda .... 94

2. From Skogstad to the Opdalstjzrle 93

3. Stugun«rs and Suletind . . 96

4. From Nystuen to Aardal . . . . .96

14. The Sognefjord 99

a. Aardalsfjord. Vettisfos 101

CONTENTS. ix

Route Page

1. From Farntes to Muradn and Fortun 102

2. From Moen to Eidsbugarden 102

3. Store Skagastjzrlstind 103

4. Circular Tour round the Horunger 103

b. Lysterfjoid. Jostedal 103

1. From Solvorn to Hillestad 103

2. From Hillestad to Fjserland 103

3. From Marifjaeren to Sogndal 104

4. From D#sen to the Church of Jostedal 105

5. From Skjolden through the Mjzrrkereidsdal to the Jostedal 105

6. From the Krondal to the Tunsbergdalsbree 107

7. From tke Krondal to Loen on the Nordfjord .... 108

8. From Faaberg across the Jostedalsbrae to Gredung i Stryn 108

c. Aurlandsfjord and Nserefjord 108

1. Ascent of the Blejan from Ytre-Fr#ningen 109

2. The Flaamsdal Ill

3. From Aurland to Vossevangen Ill

4. From Aurland to T^njum in the Laerdal Ill

d. From Lserdalseren to Bergen by Steamer. The W.

Sognefjord 112

1. From Amble to Sogndal (by land) 112

2. From Sogndal to Fjaerland 113

3. From Fjaerland over the Jostedalsbrse to Lunde . . . 115

4. From Balholmen to Sande by the Svserskard .... 115

5. From Balholmen to Fjzrrde 115

15. From Christiania to Molde by the Gudbrandsdal. Lake

Mj»sen 117

1. From Eidsvold to Eidsvoldsverk 118

2. From Gj0vik to Odnses 119

3. From Lillehammer to the Gausdal Sanatorium .... 121

4. From Skjaeggestad to Jerkin 122

5. From Storklevstad to Bjtflstad and S0rum 123

6. From Laurgaard to the Formokampen and to Sjmim . 124

7. From Holsset to Aanstad 125

8. From M0lmen to Aanstad 126

16. Routes from the Gudbrandsdal to Jotunheim 128

a. From Kvisberg to Lake Gjende 128

b. From Bjelstad to Lake Gjende 129

c. From Bredevangen to RMsheim 129

d. From Storvik to Lake Gjende 131

17. Jotunheim 132

a. From Fagerlund in Valders to Raufjordsheim, and

across Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugarden 134

1. Ascent of the Thorfmstind 136

2. From the Nybod on Lake Bygdin to Lake Gjende by the

Langedal, or by the Thorfmsdal and Svartdal .... 136

3. Excursions from. Eidsbugarden. Skinegg. Langeskavlen.

Uranaastind 136, 137

b. From Skogstad and Nystuen to Tvindehoug and Eids-

bugarden 138

Ascent of the Koldedalstind 139

c. From Eidsbugarden to the Gjendebod on Lake Gjende 139

1. Ascent of the Memurutunge , Gjendetunge , and Knuts-

hulstind 140, 141

2. From the Gjendebod to Skogadalsb#en through the

Raudal 141

x CONTENTS.

Route Page

3. Ascents of the Veslefjeld (Besegg) and the Besh0 ... 142

4. Ascent of the Nautgardstind 142

5. From the Ruslien-Saetre to the Memurubod 143

6. From Gjendesheim through the 0vre Leirungsdal to the

Gjendebod 143

7. From Gjendesheim to Lake Bygdin 143

d. From the Gjendebod to Riedsheim 143

1. From the Hellertjiern to the Leirdal by the Htfgvagel . 144

2. From Spiterstulen to the Galdh0piggen 145

3. Ascent of the Glittertind 145

4. From the Visdals-Seetre to the Gokraskard, the Lauvhtf,

the Gokkerdal, the Finhals, and the Smaadal .... 146

e. R»dsheim and Environs. The Galdhepiggen . . . 146

f. From Radsheim over the Sognefjeld to Fortun . . 148

g. From Eidsbugarden through the Melkedal to Sko-

gadalsbtfen, and across the Reiser to Fortun . . 151

h. From the Vettisfos to Tvindehoug and Eidsbugarden 154

Ascent of the Stgflsnaasitinder 154

i. From the Vettisfos to Redsheim through the Utladal,

the Gravdal, and the Leirdal 155

Ascent of the Skogadalsnaasi and the Styggedalstind . . . 156
k. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and the

Horunger 158

18. From the Gudbrandsdal to Meeraak on the Geirangerfjord

or to the Strynsvand 161

1. From Lindsheim to Mork and to the Strynsvand . . . 162

2. From Grotlld to the Strynsvand 164

19. From Bergen to Throndhjem by Steamer 166

1. The Sjzrndfjord (Dalsfjord and Ferrdefjord) 167

2. The Fjords near Christianssund 173

20. From Aalesund to Hellesylt (Molde) via 0rstenvik and 0ie 174

21. Overland Route from Bergen to Aalesund and Molde . 178

1. From Skei through the Stardal to Aamot 182

2. From Hellesylt to the Strynsvand 186

3. From Svlte to Veblungsnfes. The Tafjord 187

22. The Valleys of Stryn, Loen, and Olden 189

23. Molde and the Moldefjord with its Branches. The Romsdal 194

a. Steamboat Voyage from Molde to Veblungsnaes in

the Romsdal 196

b. Land Route from Molde to Veblungsn£es 197

c. From Veblungsnses or N«s to the Romsdal .... 198

d. From Molde to the Eikisdal 201

From Reitan to Ormeim 205

24. Land Routes from Molde to Throndhjem 205

a. By Battenfjordseren and Christianssund 205

b. By Angvik and Orkedal 206

25. From Domaas in the Gudbrandsdal to Steren (Thrond-

hjem) 207

1. Ascent of the Snehsettan 208

2. From Jerkin through the Foldal to Lille-Elvdal . . . 208

3. From Aune through the Sundal to Sundalstfren . . , 209

4. From Austbjerg to T0nsset '. 210

5. From Bjerkaker to 0rkedals#ren 210

CONTENTS. xi

Route Page

26. From Christiania to Throndhjem 211

27. Throndhjem and its Environs 216

From Throndhjem to Storlien 222

28. Inland Route from Throndhjem to Namsos 223

1. From Levanger to Stenkjser 223

2. From Stenkjeer to the Snaasenvand and the Fiskumfos . 224

3. From Namsos to the Fiskumfos 224

29. The Nordland 225

I. From Throndhjem to Bode 231

1. From Namsos to Kongsmo on the Indre Foldenfjord . . 233

2. The Bindalsfjord and Thosenfjord 233

3. The Velfjord 234

4. The Vefsenfjord 235

5. From Spvik to Her0en 236

6. The Banenfjord, Dunderlandsdal, Beierendal, and Jun-

kersdal 236, 237

7. The Melfjord 239

8. Holandsfjord. Reindalstind. Glomfjord 239

Excursions from Bode. Beierenfjord. Saltenfjord.

Skjerstadfjord. Sulitelma. Landegode . . . 240-243

II. From Bode to Tromse. The Lofoden Islands .... 243

1. The Foldenfjord 244

2. Ofotenfjord. Skjomenfjord 250

3. From Maalsnses to the Rostavand 252

4. From Maalsnses to the Altevand 252

5. From Ssetermoen to Sjsfveien 252

6. Ascent of the Tromstind 255

III. From Tromse to the North Cape 255

1. The TJlfsfjord 255

2. The Lyngenfjord 256

3. The Kvenangfjord 257

4. The Altenfjord 258

IV. From the North Cape to Vadse 263

From Vadse to Nyhorg 268

30. Syd-Varanger 269

31. Inland Routes from the Altenfjord 271

a. From the Altenfjord to Karasjok 271

b. From Alten to Haparanda in Sweden 272

32. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg (and

Stockholm) 274

From Kongsvinger to Elverum 275

Sweden.

33. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Railway 276

1. From Ski to Sarpsborg 276

2. From Fredrikshald to Venersborg by the Dalslands Canal 279

34. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Sea 281

35. Gothenburg 284

36. From Gothenburg to Helsingborg 288

1. From Varberg to Boras 288

2. From Halmstad to Nassjo 289

3 From Kattarp to Hoganas 289

xii CONTENTS

37. From Gothenburg to Venersborg. Trollhatta Falls. Lake

Route Page

Venern 2^0

1. From Oxnered to Uddevalla £g

2. From Venersborg to Herrljunga /^*

38. From Gothenburg to Stockholm -*«*

1. From Herrljunga to Boras *■"

2. From Stenstorp to Hjo ~jH

3. From Stenstorp to Lidkoping fl™

4. From Skara to Gossater. The Kinnekulle ^ao

5. From Skijfde to Karlsborg *°°

6. From Moholm to Mariestad -jj™

39. From Falkoping via Jonkoping to Nassjo ^

The Taberg. Husqvarna • • • • ■ • • A,B

40. From Jonkoping to Stockholm by Lake Vettem and the

GSta Canal £™

41. From Nassjo to Stockholm ^b

1. From MjiSlby to Mqtala and Hallsberg »«

2. From Fogelsta to Odeshbg *n

3. The Kinda Canal °"°

4. From Norsholm to Vestervik ™

5. From Norsholm to Palsboda . . . • ■ • • • • • gVn

6. From Norrkoping to Stockholm by the night-steamer . dlO

42. From Charlottenberg to Stockholm olU

1. From Frykstad to the Fryken Lakes oU

2. The Valley of the Klar-Elf |J|

3. From Christinehamn to Filipstad ••■;•' a/|

43. From Hallsberg to Orebro, Koping, and Stockholm . . 616

1. Lake Hjelmaren and the Hjelmare Canal 314

2. From Frovi to Ludvika dl*

44. Stockholm and its Environs al°

Staden and Riddarholmen *g

The Northern Quarters of the Town «wo

The National Museum °S

Sbdermalm • ■ • • ■ • ■ ■ '

Environs: DjurgSrd, Marieberg, Karlberg, Solna Kyrka,

Haga Ulriksdal 043-34 <

Excursions on Lake Maiaren : Drottningholm, Mariefred,

Gripsholm, Strengnas ™"*:

The Baltic : Vaxholm, Gustafsberg, etc oO<i, 303

45. From Kolback and Valskog to Flen, Nykoping, and Oxele-

sund 353

46. From Stockholm to Upsala 35"

a. By Railway 355

b. By Steamer °56

47. Upsala 3„5J

From Upsala to Norrtelje *j

48. From Upsala to Gene ob*

1 From Orbyhus to Dannemora *J

2. From Gefle to Falun **

49. From Gothenburg to Falun ot>4

1 From Daglosen to Filipstad aba

2. The Stromsholms Canal 3b0

Excursion to Lake Siljan ob/

50. From Stockholm via Upsala to OstersundandThrondhjem 369

PLANS AND MAPS. xili

Route Page

1. From Krylho to Borlange 370

2. Ascent of Areskutan 372

51. From Gefle to Sundsvall and Haparanda. The Swedish

Norrland . . 372

1. From Sundsvall to Ange 373

2. From Lulea to Qvickjock and to Bod0 in Norway . . 375

52. From Stockholm to Visby 377

53. From Stockholm to Malmo by Nassjo 382

1. From Vislanda to Bolmen 383

2. From Vislanda to Karlshamn 384

3. From Hessleholm to Christianstad and Solvesborg . . 384

4. From Stehag to Rostanga and to the Ringsjo . . . . 385

5. From Eslof to Helsingborg 385

6. From Eslof to Landskrona 385

7. From Landskrona to Engelholm 385

8. From Lund to Trelleborg 388

From Hessleholm to Helsingborg 388

54. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar 389

1. From Vexio to the Kronoberg 390

2. Island of Oland 392

From Oskarshamn to Nassjo 393

55. Malmo and its Environs 393

From Malmo to Ystad. Bornholm 395, 396

From Ystad to Eslof 396

Index 397

Plans and Maps.

Comp. the Key Map at the End of the Book.

Plans : 1. Christiania (1 : 20,000). — 2. Bergen, with Environs
CI : 24,000). — 3. Throndhjem, with Environs (1 : 50,000). —
4. Drammen, with Environs (1:20,000). — 5. Fredrikshald
(1 : 15,000). — 6. Gothenburg (1 : 21,500). —7. Molde (1 : 80,000).

— 8. Sarpsborg (1 : 26,100). — 9. Stockholm(i : 15,000). — 10. Vp-
sala(l : 20,000). — 11. Visby (1 : 15,000). — 12.Z,imd(l : 20,000).

— 13. Malmo (1 : 30,000).

Maps. 1. General Man of S. Norway (1 : 2,000,000): before
the Title-page.

2. Map of the Environs of Christiania (1 : 80,000) : p. 10.

3. Map of the District between Christiania , Kongsberg, and
Lake Krederen (1 : 500,000): between pp. 10, 11.

4. Map of North Telemarken (1 : 500,000): between pp. 18, 19.

5. Map of South Telemarken (1 : 500,000): between pp. 32, 33.

6. Map of the Stavanger Fjord and its Branches (i : 500,000) :
between pp. 46, 47.

7. Map of the Outer Hardanger Fjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 52.

8. Map of the Inner Hardanger Fjord (1 : 500,000): between
pp. 54, 55.

9. Map of the Inner Sognefjord (1 : 500,000) : p. 100.

xiv ABBREVIATIONS.

10. Map of the Central Part of the Sognefjord (1:500,000):
between pp. 108, 109.

11. Map of Jotunheim (1 : 500,000): between pp. 132, 133.

12. Map of the Nordfjord and its Surroundings (1:500,000):
between pp. 168, 169.

13. Map of the Moldefjord and its Branches (1 : 500,000): be-
tween pp. 200, 201.

14. Map of the North - West and North Coast of Norway
(1 : 1,500,000), 1st Sheet: between pp. 230, 231.

15. Map of the North- West and North Coast of Norway
(1 : 1,500,000), 2nd Sheet: between pp. 242, 243.

16. Map of the Estuary of the Gbta-Elf(i : 100,000): p. 290.

17. Map of the Trollhatta Falls (1 : 24,000): p. 291.

18. Map of the Djurgard near Stockholm (1 : 25,000) : p. 342.

19. Map of the Environs of Stockholm (1 : 100,000) : between
pp. 342, 343.

20. Map of the Saltsjo from Molna to Vaxholm, to the E. of
Stockholm (1 : 100,000): p. 352.

21. Map of the Banks of the Sund (1 : 500,000): p. 392.

22. General Map of S. Sweden (1 : 2,000,000) : after the Index.

23. Key Map of Norway and Sweden, showing the Maps of the
Handbook : after the Vocabulary.

Abbreviations.

N., S., E., W. = north, nor-
thern ; south, southern ; east,
eastern ; west, western.

M. = Norwegian mile in Nor-
way (1 Norw. M. = 7 Engl.
M.), and Swedish mile in
Sweden (1 Sw. M. = G3/4Engl.
M., nearly), unless the con-
trary is stated.

R., B., D., S., A. = room, break-
fast, dinner, supper, atten-
dance.

R. also = Route.

Kr., 0. = crowns and ere in
Norway.

O. = ore, the form used in
Sweden.

Ft. = English feet.

As the metrical system has been adopted in both Norway and
Sweden, the distances are usually given in kilometres (1 Kil. =
0,621 Engl. M. ; comp. the Table before the title-page) , though
the old reckoning by miles is still common in parts of Norway,
one Norwegian mile being reckoned as 3 hrs. walking or 2 hrs.
driving. A Norwegian sea -mile is = 4 Engl, sea -miles. On
railway - routes the distances are generally reckoned from the
starting-point of the journey, while on steamboat -routes and
high-roads the distances from station to station are given as more
convenient.

Asterisks (*) are used as marks of commendation.

INTRODUCTION.

I. Expenses. Money. Language. Passports. Post Office.

The cost of travelling in Norway and Sweden is much more
moderate than in most other parts of Europe, but as the distances
are very great and much time is consumed in traversing them by
road, steamboat, and rowing-boat, the sum total of the traveller's
expenses will not usually amount to much less than would be spent
on a tour in Switzerland or Tyrol. After arriving in the country,
the traveller should allow at least It. for each day of his tour, but
less will suffice if a prolonged stay be made at one or more rest-
ing-places.

Money. By the monetary conventions of 1873 and 1875 the
currency of the three Scandinavian kingdoms was assimilated.
The crown (krone) is worth Is. i^fed. and is divided into 100 parts
called ere in Norway and ore in Sweden (see money-table before
the title-page). The coins and state-banknotes of this system
are current throughout the three countries, but this is not the case
with the notes of the private banks of Sweden. English sovereigns,
each worth 18 kr. , usually realise their full value at all the prin-
cipal centres of commerce, though the rate of exchange is often a
few ere less than 18 kr. per pound. Large sums are conveniently
carried in the form of circular notes or letters of credit , issued by
the chief British and American banks. The traveller will find it
convenient to obtain an abundant supply of small notes and coins
(Smaa Penge) at Gothenburg, Stockholm, Christiania, or Chris-
tiansand before starting on his tour, as in the remoter districts it is
sometimes difficult to procure change for a gold piece of 10 or 20 kr.

Language. English is spoken on board almost all the Nor-
wegian steamboats and at the principal resorts of travellers both
in Norway and Sweden , but in the country districts the native
tongue aione is understood. The Danish language, as pronounced
in Norway, is on the whole the most useful , especially as most
travellers devote far more time to Norway than to Sweden. (See
grammars and vocabularies in the removable cover at the end. of
the volume.)

Passports are unnecessary, except for the purpose of procuring
delivery of registered letters. — The Custom House Examination
is invariably lenient. Comp. p. 311.

Post Office. The postage of a letter to Great Britain or the
United States, weighing 1/2 oz-> Is 20 ere, and of a post -card
(Brefkort, Brevkort) 10 e. The traveller should avoid giving his
correspondents any poste restante address other than steamboat or

xvi II. PLAN OP TOUR.

railway stations , as the communication with places off the beaten
track is slow and uncertain. Telegraph Offices are numerous in
proportion to the population.

II. Flan of Tour.

A careful plan should be prepared before the traveller leaves
home, but the details must be left to be filled in as he proceeds
on his way. The steamboat arrangements are constantly undergoing
alteration, and the slowness and uncertainty of travelling by car-
riole and rowing-boat often give rise to disappointment, while
many of the traveller's movements must of course depend on the
state of the weather.

The best season for travelling, both in Sweden and Norway, is
from the beginning of June to the middle of September, but for
the Jotunheim and other mountain regions July and August , as
many of the loftier routes are apt to be obstructed by snow both
earlier and later in the season. The gnats which swarm in some of
the inland districts, especially in the Swedish Norrland, including
Lapland, are a great source of annoyance and suffering, but the
plague generally abates after the middle of August. For a voyage to
the North Cape (R. 29), or to Haparanda and Avasaxa (RR. 31, 51),
for the sake of seeing the midnight sun, the best season is from
the middle of June to the end of July. It may also be noted that
August is often a rainy month in the eastern districts of Norway,
while the wet season sets in somewhat later on the W. coast.

An energetic traveller may see almost all the chief points of
interest in Norway and Sweden in 2*/2-3 months, but a thoroughly
exhaustive tour cannot be accomplished in one season. The chief
attractions in Norway are the fjords of the west coast , the Jotun-
heim Mountains, and the magnificent scenery of the Nordland
within the Arctic Circle. The chief interest of Sweden consists in
its towns and its canals. — The railway companies have lately
begun to issue Circular Tour Tickets, available for 30-60 days,
and these may sometimes be found serviceable by the tourist in
Sweden. He should, however, avoid routes conducting him over
the Kil and Falun railway (p. 364). The fine scenery on the "W.
coast of Norway is not included in any of the districts for which
circular tickets are issued. — The routes given in the Handbook
may be combined in many different ways, but a few of the favourite
tours are subjoined as specimens.

i. Two or three Weeks from Christiansand.
From Christiansand by steamer to Stavcmger and Odde on the Har-

danger Fjord, and thence to Bergen (RR. 7-10)

From Bergen by railway to Vossevangen, and by road to Gudvangen

on the Sognefjord (R. 11)

From Gudvangen to Lccrdalseren, and Excursion to the Jostedals

bra (R. 14) • . •

From Lserdalsizrren through the Valdert to Chrtsltetnia (R. 13)

II. PLAN OF TOUR. xvii

ii. Three or Four Weeks from Christiansand. Days

From Christiansand by steamer to Skien, and thence by lake steamer

to Notodden-Hitterdal, and by road to Tinnoset (RR. 3,*4) ... 4-6
From Tinnoset to the Rjukanfos, and thence to Aamot, either via

Tinnoset or via. the Totakvand (RR. 3, 4) 3-4

From Aamot to the Haukeli-Sceter and Odde (R. 4) 3-4

From Odde to Bergen and thence either via Vossevangen as in

Tour i, or by steamer all the way, to Lwrdalseren (RR. 9, 10, 11, 14) 5-6
Excursions from LserdalsUren , and thence to Christiania as above

(RR. 14, 12, 13) _. 7-9

22-29

iii. Three or four Weeks from Christiania.
From Christiania to Drammen, Kongsberg, and the Rjukanfos (RR. 2, 3) 2-3
From the Rjukanfos to Odde, Bergen, Lwrdalseren, and Christiania

(as in Tour ii) ■ 18-24

20-27
iv. Three or four Weeks from Christiania.
By steamboat from Christiania to Skien, and thence by lake steamer
to Hitterdal; excursion thence to the Rjukanfos and back

(RR. 4, 3) 5-6

From Hitterdal by road to Hvideseid and by steamer to Laurdal and

Dalen; excursions from Laurdal and Dalen (RR. 3, 4) .... 5-6
From Dalen to Odde; steamboat to Eide; road to Vossevangen and
Oudvangen; and thence to Lwrdalseren and Christiania (as in

Tours ii, iii) ■ 10-16

20-28
v. Three or four Weeks from Christiania.
From Christiania through the Valders and over the Mllefjeld to

Lwrdalseren and Oudvangen (RR. 13, 12) 5-7

From Gudvangen to Eide on the Hardanger Fjord; thence to Odde,

and from Odde to Bergen (RR. 11, 9) 7-9

From Bergen by the Overland Route to Molde (R. 21) 4-5

From Molde to the Romsdal, the Gudbrandsdal , Lillehammer, and

Christiania (RR. 15, 23) 6-8

22-29

vi. Three or four Weeks from Christiania.

As in Tour v to Molde 16-21

From Molde to the head of the Romsdal and back (R. 23) ... 3-4
From Molde by steamboat direct, or partly overland, to Thrond-

hjem (RR. 19, 24) 1-3

Railway from Throndhjem to Christiania (R. 25) l'/z

21i|j-30'/2
vii. Seven to ten Weeks from Gothenburg.
From Gothenburg to Trollhattan, Jbnkbping, Vadstena, and Stock-
holm (RR. 37, 38, 39) 5-7

Stockholm and Environs (R. 44) 3-4

From Stockholm to Upsala, Ostersund, and Throndhjem (RR. 46,

47, 50) 3-4

From Throndhjem to the North Cape , and back to Throndhjem

(RR. 28, 29) 15-20

From Throndhjem over the Dovrefjeld to the Romsdal and Molde

(R. 25) 5-6

From Molde overland to the Sogne/jord and Bergen (R. 21) . . . 4-6
From Bergen to Odde on the Hardanger Fjord, thence to Eide,

Gudvangen, Lwrdalseren, and Christiania, as in Tours ii, iii. ' 14-21

49-68
Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. h

xviii II. PLAN OF TOUR.

Walking Tours. All the above tours are easy, being accom-
plished almost entirely by steamboat , railway, and carriole, and
the traveller will rarely suffer any privation worthy of mention.
To mountaineers, pedestrians, and lovers of wild and grand scenery,
who are prepared for occasional privations and fatigues, the follow-
ing walks and excursions are recommended : —

From Christiansand through the Scetersdal to the Suledalsvcmd and
Odde, RR. 6, 9.

Excursions to the Buarbrce and Folgefond, the Skjceggedalsfos, the
Veringsfos, and the walk from Ulvik to Mde, R. 9.

From Lcerdalseren to Jostedal; back to the Lysteffjord, and then to
Bkjolden, Fortun, and Oscarshoug, RR. 14, 17.

From Fortun to Aardal and the Vettisfos, and thence to Lakes Tyin,
Bygdin, and Ojende, RR. 14, 16, 17.

From Lake Gjende to the Galdhepiggen, the highest mountain in Nor-
way, and to Bedsheim, R. 17.

From R0dsheim to the Slrynsvand, and excursions at the head of the
Nordfjord, RR. 18, 22.

From Hellesylt to the Norangsfjord and back, R. 20.

From Hellesylt to Mwraak, and thence to Stavbrcekkene and back,
RR. 21, 18.

From Sylte across the Slegafjeld to Vebhmgsnas in the Bomsdal,
RR. 21, 23.

From Veblungsnaes or from Molde to the Eikisdalsvand and Sundals-
even, RR. 23, 25.

From Bode to the Sulitelma, R. 29.

From Tromse to the Lyngenfjord, R. 29.

Spokt of all kinds has fallen off greatly in Norway and Sweden
of late years. Excellent salmon-fishing is indeed still obtainable,
but only at high rents, and the best rivers, such as the Namsen-Elv
above Namsos, are let on long leases, chiefly to wealthy Englishmen.
Trout fishing , however, may still be had in abundance by those
who are prepared for some hardships. Among the best waters ('Fis-
kevand') for trout and grayling are the Telemarken Lakes, the
Messna and Laagen which fall into Lake Mjasen , the Storsje,
Isternsje, and Famundsje, the Ostra Dai-Elf and other streams fall-
ing into Lake Siljan in Sweden, the Lule-Elf and the lakes from
which it descends in Lapland, and many other lakes and rivers
mentioned in the Handbook. — It is difficult now to obtain good
shooting in Norway and Sweden , but the mountains enclosing the
Hallingdal are still said to afford good reindeer-shooting , which
may also be had on the Hardanger Vidder, in the neighbourhood
of the Romsdal, near Reros, and in Lapland. Wild-fowl abound
in many parts of Norway, particularly in the trackless forests of
0sterdalen, in the Ostra and Vestra Dal in Dalarne, in the vicin-
ity of the Storsjo in Jemtland, and in Lapland, but the sportsman
will find serious difficulties to contend with. In the first place
a very large proportion of the mountain and forest districts , where
the best sport is obtainable, belongs to government, and by a Nor-
wegian law passed in 1877 200-500 crowns , according to circum-
stances, must be paid for a license to shoot there. Persons found
shooting without a license are liable to a fine of 200-1000 crowns.

III. CONVEYANCES. xix

Although no license is required when permission is obtained to shoot
over private property, the sport is generally very inferior. Another
drawback to the sportsman's enjoyment is the difficulty of obtaining
good or even tolerable quarters. The Swedish game-laws, however,
are as yet much less stringent, no license being required for shoot-
ing on unenclosed land belonging to government.

The Close Seasons in Norway are as follows : — For heath-hen and
black-hen (Rei and Urhme), 15th March to 15th Aug. ; capercailzie (Tjur),
blackcock (Urhane), and hazel-hen (Hjerpe), 15th May to 15th Aug. ; par-
tridge (Raphene), 1st Jan. to 1st Sept.; eider-duck (Ederfugl), 15th April
to 15th Aug. ; ptarmigan (Rype), 15th May to 15th Aug. ; reindeer (Rensdyr),
1st April to 1st Aug.; hare (Hare), 1st June to 15th Aug.; elk (Elg,
Elgsdyr), beaver (Bcever), and deer (Hjort), 1st Nov. to 1st Aug. (but
foreigners are prohibited from shooting them at any time). — Salmon
(Lax) and sea-trout (Beerret) in rivers, estuaries, and lakes, 14th Sept.
to 15th April ; in brooks or on the sea-coast, 14th Sept. to 14th Feb.

The close seasons for game in Sweden are nearly the same, usually
ending on 9th August.

III. Conveyances.

Time Tables for Norway appear in 'Norges Communicationer' (25 0.)
and for Sweden in ''Sveriges Kommunikationer' (10 o.), both published
weekly in summer. Some of the more important steamboat arrangements,
which are less liable to change, are given in this Handbook ; but travel-
lers should in every case consult the latest time-tables, for even a slight
alteration in the hours of the trains &c. may cause great inconvenience
and disappointment.

Steamboats (Norw. Dampskibe, Sw. angbataf). Most of the
steamboats, both in Norway and Sweden, are comfortably fitted up,
and have good restaurants on board. The German and the Danish
steamboats (Det Forenede Dampskibs-Selskab) are said to be the
best of those plying to Christiania , the Swedish and Finnish
boats are the best for the Swedish ports , and the steamers
of Det Bergenske og Nordenfjeldske Dampskibs-Selskab are com-
monly reported to be the most comfortable for a journey to the
North Cape (comp. p. 225). The smaller steamers plying on the
Norwegian fjords are comfortable during the day, but their sleeping
accommodation is rather inadequate (see p. 100). The steamers on
the Swedish canals should be used only for short distances. The
traveller should take every opportunity offered of making previous
enquiry as to the comfort of the vessel in which he contemplates
making a long tour. It is , perhaps , superfluous to state that he
should always travel in the first cabin.

Travellers who are about to spend one or more nights on
board a steamer should lose no time in securing a berth by personal
application to the steward. In the smaller vessels the dining-
saloon is used at night as a sleeping-cabin, but there is always a
separate ladies'-cabin. A passenger travelling with his family pays
full fare for himself, but is usually entitled to a reduction ('Mod-
eration') of 25 per cent for each of the other members of the
party. On most of the steamboats return-tickets, available for
various periods, are issued at a fare and a half.

xx HI. CONVEYANCES.

The food is generally good and abundant, but vegetables are
rare, and 'hermetiske Sager', salt relishes, and cheese always pre-
ponderate at breakfast and supper. The usual charge for a sub-
stantial breakfast -or supper is I-II/2, for dinner 2-2V2 crowns.
Wine, beer (25 0. per half-bottle), tea, and coffee are all extras.
No spirits are procurable. At 7 or 8 a.m. most passengers take a cup
of coffee and a biscuit or rusk ('Kavringer'). The account should
be paid daily, to prevent mistakes. The steward expects a fee of
V2-I kr. for a voyage of 24 hours, but less in proportion for longer
voyages.

Railways (Norw. Jembaner, Sw. jemvagar). Most of the rail-
ways are similar in all respects to those of other European countries.
Both in Norway and Sweden , however, there are several narrow-
gauge lines (31/3 ft.), with two classes only, which correspond with
the 2nd and 3rd on the other lines. The carriages on these narrow
lines are often badly hung and unprovided with spring-buffers , so
that the passenger sustains a severe jolting at starting and drawing
up. From 50 to 70lbs. of luggage are usually free. All luggage,
except what the passenger takes into the carriage with him, must
be booked. The average speed of the quick trains (Norw. Hurtig-
togen, Sw. kurirtagen , snaUtageri) is 22-24 Engl. AL, that of the
mixed trains (blandede Tog, blandade tag) 15-20 Engl. M., and
that of the goods trains (Godstog , godstag) 10-12 Engl. M. per
hour. These last, which usually convey 2nd and 3rd class pass-
engers only, are extremely tedious for long distances. All the
trains have smoking carriages (Regekupe, rijkkupe) and ladies'
compartments (Kvindekupe, damkupe).

The Railway Restaurants in Norway are often poor, but in
Sweden they are good and inexpensive. Passengers help them-
selves, there being little or no attendance. For breakfast the usual
charge is 1 74-1 72 » for dinner or supper 172-13/4 crowns; for a
cup of coffee or half-bottle of beer 25 0. Spirituous liquors not
obtainable. The express trains stop at fixed stations, the names of
which are posted up in the carriages, to allow time (generally only
74 nr0 f°r meals.

Posting (Norw. Skyds, Sw. skjuts; pronounced shoss or shyss
in each case). Sweden is so well provided with railways and in-
land steamboat-routes that the traveller rarely has occasion to drive
on the high-roads. In Norway, however, there are still immense
tracts of country where the Stolkjarre (a light cart with seats
for two persons, and generally without springs) and the Kariol-i

+ A comfortable carriole or a ' Trill e' (open four-wheeler) mav
be bought, or hired for the whole journey, from the ChriMania
Cariole Company, at moderate cost, hut serious drawbacks to this mode
of travelling are the loss of independence thereby occasioned and the
delays and expense of conveying the vehicle long distances by railwav
steamer, and rowing-boat. Agents of the above-named company are found

Tariff for LandS

From Slow Stations

in the

country

From Fast Static"
the country orSV

For one person

For

two persons

For one person

u
,03

Horse
alone

Horse
with or-
dinary

stol-
kjarre

Horse

with
carriole

or
spring-

stol-
kjarre

Horse
alone

Horse
with or-
dinary
stol-
kjaTre

Horse
with

carriole
or

spring-
stol-

kjserre

Hor3e
alone

Horse • J

with or- ^

dinary ■ 1

stol- '. k

kjserre ff

Kr. 0.

t I

O.40

O.48

O.50

O.60

0.68

O. 70

o-55

O.63

O.48

O.57

O.60

O.72

O.81

O.84

0.66

O.75

O.56

O.67

O. 70

O.84

O.95

O.98

0.77

0.8S

11 1

O.64

O.76

O.80

O.96

I.08

I . 12

0.88

1 00

O. 72

O.86

0.90

I.08

I .22

I .26

0.99

1 -13 ml

O.80

o-95

I .OO

I .20

i-35

I 40

1 . 10

1-25 t ,

0.S8

1.05

I . 10

I.32

1.49

1-54

1 .21

1-38 1 <

0.96

1. 14

I .20

I.44

1 .62

1 32

1.50 ft 1,

1 .04

1.24

I.30

I.56

1.76

1-43

i-63 m -'

J4.

1 . 12

'•33

I .40

i. 68

1 .89

1.54

1 .75 1 •',

1 .20

i-43

I.50

1.80

2.03

1.65

1.88 I -

1.2S

1-52

I . 60

1 .92

2.16

1 .76

2 . 00 11 1 ,

1.36

1 . 62

I.70

2 .04

2.30

1.87

2-13 |:\

1.44

1. 71

I . 80

2.16

2-43

1.98

2.25 1 -

1.52

1. 81

I . 90

2.2S

2-57

2 .09

2-38 1

1 .60

1 90

2 . OO

2.40

2.70

2 20

2.50 I;.;,!

1.68

2 .00

2. 10

; 2-52

2. S4

2 94

2 -3 T
- 0 ■

2.63 l:..

1 .76

2.09

2 .20

2 64

2 97

3-oS

2.42

2-7SB;;i'

1.84

2 . 19

2.30

2 . 76

3-n

3.22

2-53

2-88 lit.'

1 .92

2.28

2.4O

2.8S

3-24

3.36

2.64

3 . 00 ■ :

2.00

2.38

2 . 50

: 3.00

3.38

2-75

3I3I

Y'l

Skyds in Norway.

IS with ordinary tariff in

From Fast Stations with raised charges in

)w Stations

in the towns

the-country and Fast Stations

in the towns

For

two persons

For one person

' For

two persons

•se

Horse

with

carriole

spring-

stol-

kjarrc

Horse

rre

Horse
alone-

with or-
dinary
stol-
kj acrre

with
_ spring-

stol-
kja?rre

Horse
alone

with or-
dinary
stol-
kjgerre

Horse
alone

with or-
dinary
stol-
kjeurre.

with
spring-

stol-
kjserre

Kr. 0.

Kr.0.

Kr. 0.

Kt.0.

Kr. 0.

O.83

O.90

0.93

O.75

O.83

O.85

I- 13

I .20

I.23

O.99

1.0S

I . II

O.90

O.99

I .02

i-35

I.44

I.47

1. 1.6

I .26

I.30

I.05

I. 16

I. 19

1.58

1.68

I .72

1,32

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I.36

1 80

1 .92

1 .96

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I .62

1 .67

'•35

I.49

i-53

2.03

2 . 16

2.21

\°

I.65

I.80

I 85

1.50

I.65

1.70

2.2C

2.40

2-45

I.82

I.98

2.04

1-65

I.82

1 87

2 48

2.64

2. 70

I.9S

2. 16

2.22

1.80

I.98

2.04

2. 70

2.88

2.94

()

2-15

2-34

2 .41

i-95

2.15

2.21

3.12

3-'9

2.31

2.52

2.59

2. 10

2.31

2.38

1 ->fi
i -3°

3-43

2 48

2.70

2.78

2.25

2.48

2-55

3.60

3. 68

.«

2.64

2.88

2.96

2.40

2 64

2.72

3-84

3 92

2.8l

3.06

3-i5

2.55

2. Si

2.S9

4.08

4.17

2.97

3 24

3-33

2 . 70

2.97

3.06

4-32

4.41

3 H

3^42

3-52

2.85

3 -23

4.56

4.66

3.3o

3.60

3 -7o

3.00

3' 3o

3-4o

5°

4.80

4.90

3-47

3-78

3-89

3 15

3-47

3-57

5-°4

5- 15

j;e;

3 63

3-96

4.07

3-3°

3 -63

3-74

5.28

5 39

3 80

4.14

4 26

3-45

3.80

3-9'

5-52

S-64

,.(*

3-96

4-32

4.44

3.60

3-96

4.08

5 40

5.76

5.88

|£

4-13

4-5°

4-63

3-75

413

4-25

6.00

6.13

Tariff for Boat-

Skyd

s in

Norway.

From Fast Stations

From Slow Stations in

with ordinary tariff in

with raised charges in

the country

the country or Slow
Stations in the towns

the country and Fast
Stations in the towns

Two

Three

Four

Two

Three

Four

Two

Three

Four

men
with
four-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
six-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
eight-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
four-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
six-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
eight-
oared
boat
and fail

men
with
four-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
six-
oared
boat
and sail

men
with
eight-
oared
boat
and sail

Kr. 0.

Kr. Id.

Kr. 0.

Kr.fif.

Kr. 0.

Kr.fir.

O.29

O.44

O.58

0-35

°-53

O.70

0.41

O.62

O.82

o-73

I. IO

1-45

O.88

i-33

i-75

I.03

i-55

2.05

0.87

I.32

i-74

I.05

1.59

2. 10

I.23

1.86

2.46

1.02

1-54

2.03

I.23

1.86

2.45

I.44

2.17

2.87

I. 16

1 .76

2.32

I .40

2. 12

2.80

I .64

2.48

3.28

I-3I

1.98

2 61

I.58

2-39

3-i5

I.85

2.79

3-69

I.45

2.20

2.90

i-75

2.65

3 50

2.05

3.10

4,10

I .60

2.42

3-19

i-93

2.92

3-85

2.26

3-4i

4-Si

i-74

2.64

3-'48

2.10

3-i8

4.20

2.46

3 72

4.92

1.89

2.86

3 77

2 28

3-45

4-55

2.67

403

5-33

2 03

3 08

4.06

2.45

3-7i

4.90

2.87

4-34

5^74

2.18

3-3°

4-35

2.63

3 98

5-25

3.08

4 65

6,-15

2.32

3-52

4.64

2.80

4.24

5.60

3-28

4 96

' 6.56'

2.47

3-74

4-93

2.98

4- Si

5-95

3-49

5-27

6.97

2.61

3-96

5 22

3-i5

4-77

6.30

3-69

5-58

7.38

2.76

4.18

5 Si

3-33

5-°4

6 65

3-9°

5. 89

7-79

2.90

4.40

5.80

3-5°

5-30

7.00

4. 10

6.20

8.20

3-o5

4.62

6.09

3-68

5-57

7-35

4 3i

6.51

8.6r

3 19

4.84

6.38

3.8S

5-83

7.70

4-Si

6.82

9 02

3-34

5.06

6.67

4.03

6. 10

8.05

4.72

7-i3

9-43

3-48

5.28

6.96

4.20

6.36

8.40

4.92

7.44

6.84

3-63

5-5°

7 25

4.38

6.63

8-75

5-i3

7-75

10.25

III. CONVEYANCES. xxi

(a light gig for one person) afford the sole means of communication.
The luggage is strapped or attached with a rope behind the trav-
eller, and on the top of it the Skydsgut (or simply Gut) takes his
seat, while the traveller usually drives himself. If he does so he
will be responsible for any accident, but not if he allows the 'Gut'
to drive from behind. The horses, or rather ponies, which are al-
most always weak and slow, are often cruelly overdriven by for-
eigners. The traveller should bear in mind that the average charge
of 2-3d. per Engl, mile is very inadequate remuneration to the
Skydspligtige, or peasants who are bound to supply the horses, and
that on this account also it is unfair to overdrive them. As a rule
12-15 min., and sometimes more, should be allowed for each Eng-
lish mile. Most of the principal roads in Norway have been re-
constructed of late years, and are now as good and level as is con-
sistent with the hilly character of the country. Some of the still
existing older roads are extraordinarily hilly, and of course very
trying to the horses, but they are certainly more picturesque than
the new. The roads are made by government , but maintained
by the peasantry through whose land they pass, often entailing on
them a heavy burden. At intervals of 10-25 kilometres (6-15Y2
Engl. M.) there are Skydsstationer (pron. stashooner), or farm-
houses (Gaarde) whose proprietors are bound to supply travellers
with horses whenever required, and most of whom also provide
board and lodging.

Those stations where the proprietor (Skyds - Skaffer) is hound
to have several horses always in readiness , and is liable to a fine
if he keeps the traveller waiting for more than V4"V2 hour, are
called Faste Stationer (i. e. 'fixed stations', where a 'fixed' number
of horses is always in readiness) , or usually by English travellers
'fast stations'. Another class of stations, now rare, except in little
frequented districts , is the Tilsigelse-Stationer (or Skifter) , the
owners of which are bound to procure horses from the neighbouring
farmers. For the 'Tilsigelse' (from tilsige, 'to tell to', 'send to'"), or
trouble of sending for horses, the station-master is entitled to 14 0.
for each. At these stations, which are justly called 'slow' by Eng-
lish travellers by way of antithesis to the 'fast', the charges are
very low, but the traveller may often be kept waiting for several
hours. These annoying delays are obviated by sending Forbud
('previous message') to stations of this class, and the same remark
applies to 'slow' boat-stations. The 'Forbud' must be sent at least
three hours before the time at which horses are required, or better
on the previous day. If there is regular postal communication on
the road, the message may be sent by letter or post-card; or it
may be sent by any one preceding the traveller on the same route.
Otherwise it is sent by post-card, which the post-office transmits

in Gjevilc, Odnces, Serum, Lwrdalseren, Lillehammer, Steren, Throndhjem,
Nces, and Veblungsnass.

xxii III. CONVEYANCES.

to the nearest post-town or post-station, after which it is forwarded
from station to station at a fixed charge for the les Hest which the
messenger rides t.

Among other regulations , it may he mentioned that each pass-
enger drawn by one horse is allowed 64lbs. of luggage. If two per-
sons travel together in a Stolkjcerre, for which they pay a fare and
a half, they are allowed 24lbs. of luggage only. Lastly it should
he noted that in hilly districts the 'Skyds-SkaffeT' is frequently au-
thorised to charge for more than the actual distance. Every station-
master is hound to keep a Dagbog (Skydsbog) or day-book, in which
the traveller enters his orders and records his complaints if he has
any to make. On the first page of the 'Dagbog' is always entered the
distance to the nearest station in each direction, whether by road or
by small boat , so that the traveller will have little difficulty in
calculating the fare. Strictly speaking the fare may be exacted
before the hirer starts, but it is usually paid at the end of the stage,
when the 'Gut', or girl (Jente) who takes his place, receives a gra-
tuity of 15-20 0. per station. The 'Gaardskarl', or man who helps to
harness the horse , does not expect a gratuity. The accompanying
table shows the fares exigible at the different kinds of posting-
stations. It is based on the following regulations. The charge per
horse and kilometre from a slow station in the country is 8e.,
from a fast station in the country or a slow station in the towns
lie., from a fast station with raised tariff in the country or any
fast station in the towns 15 m. In addition 1 ». per kilometre is
charged for a saddle, l'/2». for an ordinary stolkjaerre , and2e.
for a carriole or a stolkjaerre with springs. Distances under 5 Kil.
are charged as 5 Kil. The above charges at slow stations are ex-
clusive of the Tilsigelse fee (p. xxi). At slow stations the station-
master may dismiss the horses if the traveller is more than 21/2nours
late , and after the first hour of waiting he may exact Ventepenge
or 'waiting-money'. Tolls, ferries, and all similar dues are paid by
the traveller.

For the transmission of passengers and their luggage by boat
(Baadskyds or VandskydsJ the regulations are similar. Travellers
accompanied by a guide may always employ him as a rower , and
thus dispense with one of the boat's usual crew. Each rower gener-
ally wields (or 'sculls' with) two oars. A boat manned with two
rowers is therefore called a Firring, or four-oared boat, one manned
with three rowers a Sexring , and with four rowers an Ottering.
The number of persons accommodated depends on the size of the

+ The Forbudseddel, or message, may be expressed as follows: —
Paa Skydsskiftet (. . . name the station) beslilles en Hest (to Heste, etc.)
rned Karjol (Karjoler) eller Stolkjcerre (Stolkjecrrer) Mandagen den 20. Juli,
Formiddagen (Eftermiddagen) Klokken el (to, tre, etc.). Paa same Tid varm
Frokost for en Person (to, tre Personer).

Date & Place. Signature.

III. CONVEYANCES. xxiii

boat, and the tariff is determined by the size of the boat and not
by the number of persons. The charge for each rower per kilometre
from a slow station in the country is 6 »., from an ordinary fast
station in the country 8 e., from a fast country station with the
raised tariff or from any station in a town 9 ». In addition the boat
costs 2Y2) 4, or 5 e. per kilometre according to size. The Tilsegelse
fee is 7 m. per man and boat. The traveller should not be niggardly
in the matter of gratuities. For a large party , or where speed is
desired, three or four rowers had better be taken. Farther infor-
mation, if desired, will be found in the Lommereiseroute ('pocket
travelling itinerary'), published every summer by Abelsted of
Christiania (price 1 kr. SOe1.). The exact fare, however, may always
be ascertained by enquiry on the spot , and attempts at extortion
are happily rare.

Pedestrian Tours. Neither Norway nor Sweden is suitable for
long walking excursions, as the distances are too great , and the
points of interest lie too far apart. Many of the expeditions re-
commended above to the notice of pedestrians and mountaineers
may be accomplished on horseback, but there is no lack of glacier-
excursions and mountain-ascents which can be undertaken on foot
only. In mountainous regions, as well as on high-roads, the natives
usually reckon the distances by Norwegian miles. On an ordinary
road a mile may easily be walked in two hours, but on rough ground
three hours at least should be allowed for each mile.

IV. Luggage. Equipment. Tourist Club.

Luggage. Travellers who intend to perform the whole of their
tour in Norway and Sweden by railway and steamboat need not
restrict the quantity of their luggage, but those who purpose tra-
velling by carriole should, if possible, limit themselves to 30-40
lbs., and this had better be divided between a small and strong
wooden box and a carpet-bag, to which may be added a wallet or
game-pouch to be used on occasional walking excursions. If long
expeditions on horseback are contemplated, 32 lbs. must be the
limit, that being the quantity (2 'Lispund') which a rider may carry
with him ; if that limit be exceeded, a sumpter-horse (Packhest,
with a Klevsadel) which will carry 192 lbs. (12 'Lispund') must be
hired. A soft or compressible portmanteau is not recommended, as
the 'Skydsgut', who is sometimes a ponderous adult, always sits on
the luggage strapped on behind. A supply of stout cord and straps
will be found useful, and a strong umbrella Is indispensable.

Equipment. The traveller is recommended to avoid the common
error of overburdening himself with 'articles de voyage', eatables,
or anything not absolutely necessary. On all the ordinary routes,
and even in some of the remoter places, tolerable food can almost
always be obtained. Tea and essence of coffee will sometimes be
found useful in the remoter districts. Spirits are not to be had at

xxiv IV. LUUUAUE.

the inns, but good Cognac may be purchased at any of the large
towns for 4-5 kr. per bottle. A field - glass (Kikkert) , a pocket
cork-screw , and a small clothes-brush will be found useful. A
superabundance of clothing should be eschewed. Two strong, but
light Tweed suits , a moderate supply of underclothing, a pair of
light shoes for steamboat and carriole use, and a pair of extra-
strong Alpine boots for mountaineering ought to suffice. Lastly
a couple of square yards of stout waterproof material , to be used
as a wrapper for coats and rugs , or for covering the knees in wet
weather, will complete the traveller's equipment. The aprons
(Skvmtlader) of the carrioles , it may here be observed , are often
dilapidated, so that a waterproof coat and rug are very desirable.
Visitors to Lapland and the Swedish Norrland should also be pro-
vided with veils to keep off the gnats. Ladies travelling in Norway
should also dress as simply, strongly, and comfortably as possible,
eschewing all superfluous ornament. Those who aspire to the
rougher mountain tours should be provided with stout gaiters or
leggings. Alpenstocks , coloured spectacles , and the other para-
phernalia required for glacier and snow-mountain expeditions may
be obtained in Christiania (p. 1) or Bergen (p. 69).

Tourist Club. The Norske Turistforening ('tourist union') ex-
tends its useful sphere of operations throughout almost every part
of Norway. These consist in building refuge-huts, improving moun-
tain paths, establishing tariffs for guides and boats, and otherwise
watching over the interests of travellers. The subscription is only
4 kr. per annum, for which a copy of the 'Aarbog' will be sent to
the traveller through the medium of any Norwegian address he
names. The members are always received with marked courtesy
in the mountainous regions, and enjoy a preference in the case of
a competition for accommodation at the club-huts. Travellers may
enrol themselves at Christiania (see p. 2), Bergen, Throndhjem,
Fagernses (p. 93), etc. The club-button (Klubknap), which mem-
bers wear as a distinctive badge, costs 80 m. more. Comp. p. 132.
— A Swedish Tourist Club (Svenska Turistforening) has also been
formed at Stockholm.

Guiues usually receive 4-6 kr. per day , and on the expiry of
their engagement have to return home at their own cost. A
distinct bargain should, however, be made in each case.

V. Hotels and Inns.
Except in the capitals and a few of the most frequented tourist-
resorts , hotels of the first class are rare in Sweden and still rarer
in Norway , but second - class hotels and unpretending country
inns are abundant in proportion to the population, affording as a
rule, cheap and very tolerable accommodation. The hotels at Chris-
tiania , Christiansand , Bergen , and Throndhjem are all as ex-
pensive as similar houses in Germany or Switzerland. In Stock-

V. HOTELS AND INNS.

holm , on the other hand, the charges at the three principal hotels
are reasonable , and in several of the other Swedish towns (Karl-
stad, Linkoping, Norrkoping, Malmo , etc.) there are excellent
hotels with very moderate charges. At the stations or wayside inns
in Norway the usual charge for a bed is 80 e. to 1 kr., for break-
fast 1, supper 1, and dinner lt/^-^kr., while the servant (gener-
ally a Pige or Jente) is amply satisfied with a fee of 40-50 m. from
each person (Norw. Drikkepenge, Sw. drickspengar). The country
inns (gastgifvaregardar) in Sweden are usually cleaner than those
in Norway , but in the less frequented districts they afford very
poor accommodation. In remote places the traveller is sometimes
asked to share a room and even a bed with another. In Norway
travellers are generally conveyed to or from the railway-station or
steamboat-quay by the hotel-omnibuses free of charge.

Tables d'hote are almost unknown in Sweden , and are rare in
Norway, except in the principal towns. On board of all the steam-
boats, however, they are the rule. All the Swedish and Norwegian
hotels have a restaurant attached to them, where most of the natives
dine and sup h la carte. The Smorgasbord or Brannvinsbord, where
relishes of various kinds, bread-and-butter, and brandy and liqueurs
are served by way of a stimulant to the appetite, is an institution
peculiar to Sweden. The waiter (Norw. Opvarter, Swed. kypare or
vaklmastare ; garcon is also used) expects a gratuity of 10 ». or
more for each meal. The following dishes are among the commonest
in the Matseddel or Spisesedel (bill of fare) at the restaurants : —

NoKWEGIAt>

. English.

Swedish.

Norwegian

. English.

Swedish.

Suppe

Soup

Soppa.

Aal

Eel

Kjedsuppe

Broth

Bul/ong

Gjedde

Pike

Gddda

Kjed

Meat

Kott

ffrreter

Trout

Foreller

kogl

boiled

kokt

Torsk

Cod

Torsk

slegt

roasted

stekt

Sild

Herring

Fill

Oxekjed

Beef

Oxkott

Grensager

Vegetables

Gronsaker

Kalvesteg

Roast veal

Kalfstek

Rentier

Beans

Boner

Koteletter

Cutlets

Koteletter

jErter

Peas

Arter

Faaresteg,

Roast mut

Farstek

( Poteter
( Kartofler

Potatoes

Potatis , Po-

Bedeiteg

ton

tdter

Flesk

Pork

Svinkott

jEg

Eggs

Agg

Raadyrsteg

Roast veni-

Radjurslek

Pandekagei

Pancakes

Pankakor

son

Ost

Cheese

Ost

Rendyrsteg

Roast rein

Renstek

Srner

Butter

Smor

deer

Kager

Cakes

Kakor

Fjoerkrm

Poultry

Fjaderfa

Redvin

Red wine

Rottvin

And

Duck

And

Hvidvin

White wine Hvidtvin.

Oaas

Goose

Gas

01 (short)

Beer

01., bier.

Fisk

Fish

Fisk

Beer is the beverage usually drunk (halo Flask or halfva butelj,
20-25e.), but good Bordeaux and other wines are procurable at the
better inns and on board all the steamers. Porter has also come
into vogue of late years, particularly at Gothenburg and Stockholm.
Spirit-drinking, which used to prevail to an enormous extent, has
been greatly diminished by recent —

xxvi V. HOTELS AND INNS.

Liquor Laws. In Norway, where the liquor-traffic was formerly al-
most entirely free, the consumption of raw spirits amounted in 1833 to
28 quarts per head of the entire population. Owing to the raising of the
duty and to the efforts of temperance societies the quantity was reduced
in 1843 to 17'/2 pints per head, and in 1871-73 to about 9 pints per head
per annum. In 1874 and 1875 the average consumption rose to nearly 12
pints for each person per annum, but the recent introduction of a per-
missive bill' has again caused a great reduction and is said to have been
attended with the most beneficial results. By the laws of 9th June, 1866,
3rd May, 1871, and 22nd May, 1875, the authorities of each district may,
by a majority, refuse to grant any license for the retail sale of spirits
within their district, or they may grant a monopoly of the spirit-trade
to a company which is bound to pay the whole of its profits to the
municipality, after deduction of expenses and 5 per cent interest. The
former option has been exercised in many country-districts, with the
result that drunkenness is now almost unknown and that poverty, crime,
and disease are greatly diminished. The other alternative has been
adopted in many of the larger towns, such as Bergen and Christiansand,
with the result that drunkenness and crime are much less frequent than
formerly, and that a considerable revenue is yielded to the municipality
for the support of the improvident classes. The sale of spirits is entirely
prohibited on Sundays and saints' days, and also on Saturdays and the
eves of festivals after 5 p.m. — The laws restricting the sale of wine
and beer are similar, but of a much less stringent character.

In Sweden the leading statute regulating the retail spirit-trade was
passed on 24th August, 1877, partly in consequence of the success which
for several years previously had attended the 'Gothenburg licensing sys-
tem'. Its provisions are similar to those of the Norwegian statutes, and
by § 3 it is farther provided that food shall always be sold at spirit-shops.
By §§ 10, 14 it is enacted that the authorities of a district may either
sell one or more licenses , in accordance with the requirements of the
place, by auction to the highest bidder, or to a company which shall
pay the whole of its surplus profits to the municipality, or they may by
a majority refuse to grant any license for the retail sale of spirits. Again,
by § 17, no license will be granted to any one in a town, except on his
undertaking to pay duty on at least 1200 Kannor at the rate of 25 0. per
Kanna (2'/3 quarts) of spirits sold for consumption elsewhere, or at the
rate of 40 0. per kanna of spirits consumed on the premises. The mini-
mum quantity on which duty must be paid in the country is 600 Kannor.
A license in a town, if granted at all, therefore costs 300-480 kr., and in
the country one-half of that sum. By § 28 spirit-shops are closed in the
country, and in towns they may be closed by order of the authorities,
on Sundays and festivals. — In October, 1877, the municipality of Stock-
holm, under § 10 of the statute, granted the sole license to retail spirits
to a company similar to that at Gothenburg, and the police statistics
show that drunkenness and crime have considerably decreased.

Travellers requiring to leave a country inn early in the morning
should make all their arrangements and give their orders on the
previous night, as the people are generally very slow in their move-
ments. When lodging is obtained at the house of a 'Lensmand'
or a pastor, the traveller may either ask for the bill, or pay at least
as much as would have been charged at an inn. In some cases,
however, all remuneration is refused. — Cafes are almost unknown
in Norway, but are to be found in all the larger Swedish towns.
One of their specialties is the famous Swedish punch, a mixture of
rum or airak with lemon-juice and sugar , which is drunk as a
liqueur and undiluted. With ice in summer it is a palatable, but
not very wholesome beverage.

VI. NATIONAL CHARACTER. xxvii

VI. National Character.

The Swedes are generally pleasant and courteous in their man-
ners, and very hospitable and obliging to strangers, but by ordinary
tourists, who traverse the country by railway and steamboat , they
are seldom seen to advantage.

With the Norwegians, on the other hand, whose country, in
pleasant, old-world fashion, must be explored chiefly by driving,
riding, or walking, the traveller will have ample opportunity of
becoming better acquainted. Principal Forbes, the learned author of
a standard work on Norway, calls the natives 'a free, intelligent, and
fine-hearted people', and the definition is still correct, particularly
with regard to those who are removed from the influences of
modern 'civilisation'. Sincerity, honesty, and freedom from con-
ventional cant are the chief national virtues. The outward forms
of politeness are very little observed. On arriving at an inn or
a station the traveller is seldom welcomed by the host or hostess,
and on his departure he is treated with the same apparent neglect.
The omission of such attentions arises partly from the independent
position of many of the station-masters, with whom innkeeping is
quite a subsidiary branch of business, and partly from the national
unobtrusiveness and simplicity of character. Of true politeness and
genuine kindness there is seldom any lack. The democratic char-
acter of the people manifests itself in the freedom with which the
peasant, the guide, and the Skydsgut seat themselves at the same
table with the traveller. If the latter, however, invites his guide
or Skydsgut to share his meals, he must pay for them at the same
rate as for himself. The invitation (which is by no means obliga-
tory) is accepted with a certain dignity, and not unusually responded
to by the attendant's ordering an extra bottle of wine or beer. On re-
ceiving a gratuity, the recipient usually shakes hands with the donor
in token of his gratitude. Persons who object to such demonstra-
tions had better abstain from visiting Norway. The friendly offer of
tobacco or a cigar often goes farther than a pecuniary gratuity.

The Norwegians are uniformly well educated and intelligent,
often unaffectedly pious and devout, and generally a God-fearing,
law-abiding people. Occasionally, however, their piety degenerates
into superstition and mysticism, as in the case of the 'Haugianer'.

From what has already been said the traveller will rightly
conclude that extortion, dishonesty, and incivility are rarely met
with in Norway. In some cases, in parts of Telemarken for
example, somewhat high charges are asked on the ground that they
are not higher than would be paid at Christiania , but they are
rarely insisted on if the traveller remonstrates. Lastly it may be
observed that in many cases in which travellers have had cause to
complain of incivility or overcharging, the offence has been oc-
casioned by the unreasonableness of their requirements and still
oftener by their own want of politeness and consideration.

xxviii VII. MAPS.

VII. Maps.

In maps of an extensive, but sparsely peopled country like the
Scandinavian peninsula there is abundant space for names, and as
there is no lack of these (see below, 'Nomenclature') the traveller
will often be misled by their apparent importance. In mountain-
ous and remote districts particularly, each farm-house and even
many insignificant 'saeters' or chalets are named in almost as bold
type as Christiania itself. In the maps in the Handbook the
names of unimportant 'gaards' have been omitted, but those of
churches carefully marked. Where several different names are
applied to the same place that most commonly used is given.

In Norway a series of Ordnance Maps, the publication of
which began in 1826, on the scale of 1 : 200,000, includes as yet
only the southern half of Norway and the Tromsa- Amt (p. 253).
These maps are executed entirely in black, and are often indis-
tinct, as most of the plates have suffered from frequent use. A
series of 200 new ordnance maps on a scale of 1 : 100,000, called
the 'Topografisk Kart over Kongeriget Norge' (water coloured blue,
mountains indicated by contour lines and shaded in chalk), and a
less satisfactory 'Generalkart over det sydlige Norge', on a scale of
1 : 400,000 (in three colours; to be completed in 18 sheets) are
now in progress. At the beginning of 1889 the eight southern-
most sheets of the latter had been published, while of the former
there had appeared 21 sheets of the district round Christiania,
29 sheets of Throndhjem and neighbourhood, 4 of Bergen, 1 of
the Sogndal, and 1 of Galdhepiggen. For travelling purposes the
most satisfactory maps that have as yet been issued are the Reise-
kart over det Sydlige $ Nordlige Norge, on a scale of 1 : 800,000,
prepared from official sources by Lieutenant Nissen (published by
Oammermeyer of Christiania , 2nd ed., 1887; six plates, Wfa br-
each), and Oscar Nielsen's Lomme-Reisekart over Norge (1 : 400,000 ;
same publishers; in sections at 40-80 e. each). In Lieut. Nissen's
map the 'skyds- stations', the distances between them, and other
points useful to tourists are carefully noted. Lastly we may men-
tion 'Haffnerf DahVs Kart over Finmarkens Ami' (1:400,000; two
plates).

Of Sweden, on the other hand, there exists a most satisfactory
ordnance map, called the 'Topografiska Corpsens Karta bfver
Sverige' (water coloured blue), on a scale of 1 : 100,000. In 1888
about 65 sheets had appeared, extending on the N. to Lake Venern
and Gefle. — Another excellent map is the lOeneralkarta bfver
Sverige1 (1 : 100,000), in three plates, of which the two southern-
most have been issued. — We may also mention the 'Lcmsfcarfor'
(1 : 200,000) and the lGeografisk Atlas bfver Sveriges' by Dr. M. Roth.
The latter, which is published in two parts (physical and politi-
cal), has been left incomplete.

VIII. TOPOGRAPHICAL NOMENCLATURE. xxix

VIII. Topographical Nomenclature.

In Norway and Sweden , the former in particular, the spelling
and pronunciation of the names of places is very variable. In
Sweden the modified a and o are written a and 6, but in Norway
usually a and 0, while a and 6 also sometimes occur, the latter
being used by some writers to indicate the short sound of the
letter. Again in Norway aa, au, ou, and o are frequently inter-
changed, as in Laag, Laug, Loug, or Log, 'river', and Haug or
Houg, 'hill'. The vowels 0, u, ei, 01, and e (sometimes also u)
are also frequently interchanged , while their pronunciation is
nearly identical , so that the same word will sometimes assume
such various written forms as Synjereim, Sennerheim, 01 Sennerum,
Bredheim or Breum, Mmraak or Merok, Eidfjord or 0ifjord. The
letter d in combination with other consonants or at the end of a
word is usually silent, and is consequently often omitted in writing
[Meheia for Medheia, Haukeli for Haukelid, etc.). Lastly it may be
observed that in many words g and k, when hard, are used indiffer-
ently, as Agershus or Akershus, Egersund or Ekersund, Vig or Vik.
The article en or et (see the grammar in the appendix) is often
added in common speech to names which appear in the map with-
out it (Krogleven, Kroglev, etc.). In the Danish or Norwegian lan-
guage the letter w does not occur, but in Swedish v and w are con-
stantly interchanged, the latter havingof late come more into vogue.

In both countries the traveller will often be struck by the
simplicity and primitiveness of the nomenclature, names signify-
ing merely 'the creek', 'the promontory', 'the lake', 'the end of
the lake', 'the river', 'the river valley', 'the valley river' recurring
very frequently. Farm-houses again usually take their names
from their proprietors, and the converse is also often the case.
The following is a list of several Norwegian words of frequent re-
currence (cp and 0 being placed last in the alphabet) : —

Auk, Ok, probably con- Fjeld, mountain. Mo, Mog, plain, dale.

traded from Aaker or Fjord, bay, arm of the sea. Mork, Merk, forest; also

Ager, field, cultivated Fos, waterfall. a 'mountain-tract'.

land. Guard, farm-house (Engl. Nces, nose, promontory.

Am; from Aa, river. 'yard'). Nut, mountain-top, peak.

Aus, ridge. Qald, rocky slope. Odde , tongue of land,

Aur, see 0re. Qramd, group of chalets. promontory.

Bakke, hill. Haug, Houg, hill. Os, mouth, estuary.

Brce, glacier. Hei, Heia, barren height. Plads, hamlet, clearing.

Bu, Be, 'Gaard', hamlet. Helle, slab of stone, rock, Prwsteguard, parsonage.
By, town, village. cliff. /Soeto^'chalet^mountain-

Bygd , parish , district, Hyl, Hel, hollow, basin. farm, cowherds' hut.

hamlet. Kirke, church. Sje, Se, lake.

Dal, valley. Kiev, cliff. Stul, Stel, see 'Sseter'.

Egg, corner, edge, ridge. Kvam, Qvam, ravine. Slue , wooden house,
Eide, isthmus , neck of Laag, Log, Laug, Loug, sseter, hut.

land. river. Sund, strait, ferry.

Elv, river. Lund, grove, thicket. Thveit (Eng. 'thwaite')'

Fjcere, ebb-tide, the beach Lykke, hamlet, garden. clearing.

exposed at ebb-tide. Mark, field. Tind, peak.

xxx IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Tjcern, Tjern, or Kjmvn, Ur, rubble, loose stones. Tel, sandy slope,

small mountain-lake, Vaag, bay, harbour. 0, island.

'tarn1. Vand, Kate, water, lake. 0e,0y, peninsula, tongue

Toft, site of a bouse, plot Vang, meadow, pasture. of land,

of ground (the English Vas, contracted genit. of 0re , 0yr , alluvial or

and Scotch provincial 'Vand'. gravelly soil, tongue

word 'toft'). Vig, Vik, creek. of land.

Many places have two or more different names, one usually
applying to the church, another to the principal 'gaard", a third
to the posting-station, and so on, the number of names being some-
times in an inverse ratio to the importance of the place.

IX. On the Physical Geography of Scandinavia.
Situation. Geological Formation. Coast Line.

Scandinavia, the largest peninsula in Europe, embracing the
kingdom of Norway on the W. and N. sides, Sweden on the E. and
S., and part of Russia to the N.E., is about 296,500 Engl. sq. M.
in area. It extends from S.S.W. to N.N.E. between 55° 20' and
71° 10' N. latitude, being upwards of 1100 Engl. M. in length.
Between the Gulf of Bothnia and the N.W. coast its breadth is
about 260 Engl. M., and towards the S. its breadth gradually in-
creases, though at the point where the Throndhjem Fjord forms a
deep indentation it narrows to 160 M. Farther to the S., in
latitude 60° (that of Christiania and Upsala), the width increases
to 435 M., beyond which Norway terminates in a rounded penin-
sula ending in Cape Lindesnses (58° 59'), while the S. part of
Sweden forms another peninsula to the S.E. of the Christiania
Fjord, gradually narrowing, and terminating in the promontory of
Falsterbo (55° 20') near Copenhagen. The entire coast-line of the
peninsula, disregarding its innumerable indentations, measures
2060 M. in length , the paTt between Cape Lindesnss and Vadse
alone measuring 1250 M.

The peninsula contains no distinct mountain-ranges like those
occurring in most other countries, but mainly consists in its W.
part of a vast elevated plateau, descending abruptly to the western
fjords and sloping gradually down to the plains of Sweden and the
Gulf of Bothnia on the E. side. Roughly speaking, a line drawn
parallel with the W. coast, about 50-60 Engl. M. inland, marks
the boundary of the mountain plateau, the W. margin of which is
deeply indented with innumerable bays and creeks, and fringed
with a belt of countless rocky islands. The latter are known as
Skjcer (Sw. skcir~), and the island-belt as the Skjargaard (skargard),
To different parts of the mountain-plateau are applied the names
of Fjeld ('fell'), Heiditr ('heights'), and Vidder ('widths', barren

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxi

expanses), and in the N. part of the peninsula Kjeler ('mountain-
ranges), and from it rise at intervals rounded and occasionally
pointed peaks of considerable height.

The Mountains are composed almost entirely of primary rocks,
presenting nearly the same form as when originally solidified, and
rarely overlaid with more recent formations, so that for the geolo-
gist they possess the charm of the most hoar antiquity. These
primary rocks consist of granite, gneiss, mica, horneblende slate,
quarzite, clay slate, limestone, and dolomite, disposed in the form
of strata, corresponding with which are occasional well-defined
layers of more recent slate- formations and particularly of lime-
stone. At places, notably in the Romsdal, or Valley of the Rauma,
the gneiss , the oldest of these rocks , towers in most imposing
pinnacles , 5000-6000 ft. in height , unencumbered by any later
formations. That valley extends from the Moldefjord to the S.E.,
intersecting the pure gneiss rock, which rises on each side in almost
perpendicular cliffs , 2000-3000 ft. in height , and is afterwards
prolonged by the Gudbrandsdal descending to Lake Mjesen. In
grandeur of rock-scenery, and in the purity of its formation, this
magnificent valley is hardly inferior to the far-famed Yosemite
Valley of the Sierra Nevada in California.

About the year 1840 rocks of the Silurian Formation were
discovered by geologists in the vicinity of the Christiania Fjord, and
since that date other deposits of that period have been found in
Skane, Western Gotland , the island of Gotland, Herjeadalen, and
Jemteland in Sweden, and also on the banks of Lake Mjesen and
in Throndhjems Stift in Norway, but nowhere of great extent. The
largest Silurian basin in the peninsula is that of the Storsj'6 in
Jemteland, a lake of 2580 Engl. sq. M. in area.

One of the most instructive sections of the country is formed
by the route from Sundsvall in Sweden to Ostersund on the Storsjo
and Throndhjem in Norway. The primitive crystalline rocks of
Jemteland are first replaced by limestone, extending to the E.
bank of the lake, where the Silurian formations begin. These
stretch westwards to the great mountain backbone of Sweden and
Norway. On this route rises Areskutan, the highest mountain in
Sweden (p. 372), part of the base of which on the E. and "W. sides
belongs to the Silurian formation, while the primary rocks, con-
sisting of quartzite, horneblende, mica-slate, and gneiss, protrude
through it all the way to the summit. From this vantage-ground
we obtain an excellent idea of the character of the Scandinavian
mountains. Many of the hills, rounded and worn by glacier-action,
are almost entirely bare , or clothed only with lichens {Cetraria
cucullata nivalis, Cronicularia ochroleuca, etc.), and present an
exceedingly sombre and dreary appearance. The slopes of the
intervening basins are often well wooded, but the lower plateaux
are mainly covered with vast tracts of lake and marsh.

xxxii IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Coal occurs here and there in the peninsula. The coal-measures
of Helsingborg at the S. extremity of the peninsula are of con-
siderable value and extent. On the island of Ande, one of the
Vesteraalen group, in latitude 69 °, a bed of coal was also recently
discovered at the mouth of the Ramsaa, but investigation has proved
it to be of little value. The condition, however, of its organic re-
mains proves that the island must have been subjected to violent
convulsions about the period when the coal was formed. Under
the sea extends a thick seam of coal , above which lie strata of
sandstone, clay-slate, and later coal , extending into the island.
The island must therefore have at one period been more extensive
than now, and thickly clothed with vegetation , after which it ap-
pears to have been submerged and then upheaved anew.

The configuration of the mainland must at one time have differ-
ed greatly from its present form. That it was once higher above
the sea than now, is proved by the formation of the coast with its
water and ice-worn fjords, straits, and isthmuses (Kid). On the
other haiid the sea appears within recent centuries to have receded
at places. This was first observed by Celsius (d. 1744) and Linnceus
(d. 1778), who caused marks to be made on the rocks at Kalmar
and Gene with a view to measure the retrocession of the sea , by
the German naturalist Hell at Vard» in 1769, and by L. v. Buck,
the geologist, in 1807. Throughout a vast tract, extending from
Spitzbergen to about latitude 62°, the whole country is ascertained
to be gradually rising, or the sea to be receding. In the Altenfjord,
near Hammerfest, there are ancient coast-lines 620 ft. above the
present sea-level, and others gradually decreasing in height extend
all the way to Throndhjem and still farther S., while at Throndhjem
itself a rise of 20 ft. within 1000 years is well authenticated. At
Tornea, , at the head of the Gulf of Bothnia ,o the ground is even
said to have risen 5 ft. in a century ; in the Aland Islands, farther
S., a rise of 3 ft. within the same time has been observed ; while at
Karlskrona no change of level has been detected. To the S. of
Karlskrona, on the other hand, a gradual depression of the land or
encroachment of the sea appears to be taking place. These cal-
culations are probably not very trustworthy, but careful measure-
ments made at eleven different places between 1839 and 1865,
proved that the average rise of the coast-line between Maase and
Christiania during that period was 1 foot. According to Kjerulf,
the most eminent of the Norwegian geologists, the elevation of the
coast has taken place fitfully, as several facts tend to prove. Thus
it will generally be observed that in all the Norwegian valleys and
fjords there are several distinct terraces, between which there is a
sudden and well-defined dip, and that the old coast-lines with
their heaps of debris , descend abruptly at their lower ends at an
angle of 25-30°. Again it will be noticed that the different water-
levels on the rocks are marked by a kind of disintegrated pathway

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxiii

or furrow, each separated from its neighbour by a comparatively
intact and unworn surface.

In glancing at the Glaciers of Norway, the traveller will ob-
serve that all the most important are situated to the S. of latitude
67°. Thus too, in Novaja Semlja, in lat. 72°, there are no
glaciers of considerable size. The most extensive is the Jostedals-
bra (p. 100), lying between lat. 61 ° and 62°, 515 Engl. sq. M. in
area, and the largest glacier in Europe. In form it resembles an
enormous roof, from which a number of offshoots descend to within
150-200 ft. of the sea-level. A similar ice-mantle is that of the
Folgefond (p. 55), a little to the S. of lat. 60°, and another of
vast extent is that of Svartisen (p. 238), within the Arctic Circle.
The upper parts of these glaciers form immense and comparatively
level expanses of dazzling ice and snow, uninterrupted by moraines
or crevasses , except where their ramifications descend into the
valleys, and rarely broken by peaks rising above them. These
plateaux of ice accordingly correspond with the mountain - con-
figuration peculiar to Norway, and on a small scale they afford an
idea of the character of the glaciers which once covered the whole
country. Of that period numerous traces still exist in Scandinavia
as well as on the Baltic coasts. Striated rocks are everywhere
observable, from the coast-line upwards ; the debris of moraines is
distributed over every part of the country ; and the soil formed by
glacier-friction now forms good cultivable land and affords abun-
dant material for brick-making. Erratic Blocks seem to have
been first deposited in S. Sweden by the glaciers on their south-
ward course, and they abound in N. Germany, sometimes lying a
few feet only below the surface of the soil , sometimes clustered
together with sand, mud ,oand gravel, and rising into hills of 70-
185 ft. in height, called Asar in Sweden , and known in Ireland
and Scotland as escars and kames.

The coast is indented with innumerable Fjords, almost all of
which have several minor ramifications. Similar indentations occur
in the precipitous "W. coast of N. America, extending northwards
from the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and on the S. American coast, to
the S. of the Island of Chiloe, and on a smaller scale there are
numerous fjords on the "W- and E. coasts of Greenland, in Spitz-
bergen, Novaja Semlja, and on the W. coasts of Iceland, Scotland,
and Ireland. All these fjord-formations cease within 40-50° from
the equator, and at the same time they generally correspond with
the rainiest regions of the countries where they occur. The E. coast
of Scandinavia was probably also at one time indented with fjords,
to which the numerous inland lakes once belonged, but which have
gradually been filled up by the alluvial deposits of the rivers. That
the fjords have been formed, as would naturally be supposed, by
the erosive action of ice and water, seems to be disproved by the
fact that they are often much deeper than the sea beyond their

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit, c

xxxiv IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

mouths. The Sognefjord, for example, is no less than 4100 ft.
deep at places. The fact appears rather to he that these basins
existed before the glacier era. They are generally narrow and
deep, and with the exception of those in E. Finmarken , they lie
at right angles to the axis of the mountains. On the banks of the
fjords usually extends a strip of fertile and sheltered land which
has attracted a considerable population.

The immense and intricate archipelago of the Skjsergaard
(skargard), or island-belt, which affords admirable shelter to the
coasting steamers, accompanies nearly the whole of the Scandina-
vian coast from Vadse to Haparanda. The only considerable inter-
vals are in the Arctic Ocean near the North Cape, off the mouth of
the Foldenfjord (6472°), off Jatdern and Lister (between 58° and
59°), and opposite the coasts of Holland and Skane in Sweden.
Within the Arctic Circle are a considerable number of large islands,
the Kvale, on which Hammerfest is situated, the Seiland, Sere,
Stjerne, Kaage, Arne, Varne, Ringsvadse, and Kvale ; between
the last and the mainland is the Tromse , with the town of that
name ; then Senjen and the Vesteraalen and Lofoden Islands. Of
the last-named group the first is the Hinde, the largest island in
Norway (644 Engl. sq. M.), to the S. of which there are others of
considerable size. All these islands, particularly those near the
Arctic Circle, are mountainous, and many of them present strik-
ingly picturesque forms. Among the finest are the Hestmandse,
Threnen, Lovunden, Alstene with the 'Seven Sisters', and the sin-
gular Torghattan, all of which are described in the Handbook
(pp. 234-238).

The great resource of the busy coast-population is the Cod
Fishery, besides which the Herring, Oyster, and Lobster Fisheries
and Seal Hunting yield a considerable revenue. The great fishing-
banks of the Lofoden Islands are mentioned at p. 245. These
fisheries support a population of no less than 100,000 souls. The
annual yield of the cod-fishery is estimated at 1,300,000*., and
that of the seal-hunting (Phoca vitulina) at 55,600i., while about
a million and a half of lobsters are annually exported to England
alone. Herrings formerly abounded near Stavanger, but disap-
peared from 1784 to 1808, during which period cod were abundant
in that neighbourhood. In 1808 the cod in their turn disappeared
and the herring returned, but since 1869 the former have again
been found in their old haunts. The shoals of cod and herring are
usually attended by a kind of whale (Balenoptera museulus), which
was formerly supposed to prey on the latter, but this is ascertained
to be erroneous. The oyster-fishery is chiefly carried on on the S.
coast near Kragere, and on the W. coast near Finnaas in S»nd-
hordland, near Lindaas in Nordhordland, near Vestnas in the
Romsdalsfjord, by the Bjcere, and near Vigten in the Namsdal. The
Salmon Fishery is also of considerable importance. Among the

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxv

most famous rivers are the Drammens-Elv, the Numedalslaag, the
Ongne-Elv in Jaederen, the Suledals-Elv in Ryfylke, the Rauma and
Driva in the Romsdal , the Gula near Throndhjem , the Namsen
in the Namsdal, and the Alten-Elv and Tana in Finmarken.

These valuable resources of the coast-districts, compared with
which the Opland or inland districts offer little or no attraction to
settlers, have also given rise to the important Maritime Trade of
Norway, the foundation of which was laid by the piratical Vikings
(inhabitants of 'Vikar' or creeks), whose expeditions extended to
Constantinople, and who discovered Iceland, Greenland, and N.
America ('Vinland') 500 years earlier than Columbus. On some
of the fjords still exist the tumuli of these early navigators, who
sometimes caused themselves to be buried along with their vessels.
The commercial fleet of Norway now ranks next to those of Great
Britain and the United States. Timber for shipbuilding purposes
is abundant.

The E. coast of the peninsula is less favourable for the purposes
of navigation, especially as many of the harbours have altered their
position or been rendered shallow by the gradual rise of the coast-
line, and accordingly few of the vikings had their headquarters
there. The coasting-trade of Stockholm, however, and the inland
lake and canal-traffic are of considerable importance.

Mountains, Lakes, and Bivers.

Owing to the sudden descent of the mountains on the W. coast
the streams on that side of the peninsula all have the character of
boisterous torrents^ while on the E. coast they take the form of
long, narrow lakes, connected by rivers and often by waterfalls.
The mountains in the northernmost part of the peninsula, border-
ing on Russia, rarely exceed 1000 ft. in height, but they become
loftier as we proceed towards the S.W., rising to most imposing
dimensions on the Lyngenfjord (p. 256) and at the head of the
Saltenfjord (p. 241), where the Sulitelma forms the boundary
between the sister kingdoms. To the S. of the great glacier-moun-
tains of Svartisen (p. 238) the mountains decrease in height, and
a number of large lakes send their waters eastwards to the Baltic,
while the Namsen and Snaasen descend to the well-cultivated
plains on the Throndhjem Fjord. Farther to the S. the mountains,
such as the Jomafjeld, Kjelhaugen, Areskutan in Sweden, and
the Syltoppe, again attain a height of 4000-5000 ft., while the
islands off the coast contain mountains of similar height. In lati-
tude 63° the main range divides, the backbone of the peninsula
continuing to run southwards, while a branch diverges to the W.
nearly at a right angle. In the central range rise the Oster and
Vester Dalelf, which afterwards unite and descend to the S.E. to
the Gulf of Bothnia. Adjoining the same range lies the Famund-
Sje, out of which flows the Fcemunds-Elv, afterwards called the

xxxvi IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Klar-Elf, and falling into Lake Venern, whence it descends under
the name of the Gbta-Elf to the Kattegat. A little to the N. of the
Faemund-Sje> lies the Aursund-Sje, the source of the Olommen,
the largest river in Norway, which forms the imposing Sarpsfos at
Sarpsborg and falls into the Skager Rak at Fredrikstad. Near the
same lake rises the Quia, which descends to the N.W. to Thrond-
hjem, and through the valleys of these two rivers runs the impor-
tant railway from Throndhjem to the copper-mines of Reros and
Lake Mjesen.

Between the Faemund-Sjei and the Glommen rise the lofty
Hummelfjeld, Tronfjeld , and Elgepig, and between the Glommen
and the Gudbrandsdal tower the isolated Rondane. To the
N.W. of the latter stretches the Dovrefjeld, culminating in the
Snehcetta (p. 208), formerly supposed to be the highest mountain
in Norway. To the W. of this point, and to the N.W. of the Gud-
brandsdal, stretch the gneiss mountains of the Romsdal, already
mentioned. The mountains to the S. of the Romsdal are usually
known as the Langfjelde, which include the Jostedalsbrce with the
Lodalskaupe and extend to the Horungerfjeld and the Jotunheim
Mountains. To the last-named group belongs the Ymesfjeld, a
huge mass of granite nearly 10 Engl. M. in breadth, culminating
in the Oaldheipig (p. 147), and surrounded by rocks of the tran-
sition period. Farther to the S. lie the extensive Lakes Gjende,
Tyin, and Bygdin, surrounded by imposing mountains, be-
longing like the Horunger to the easily disintegrated 'gabbro'
formation, and remarkable for picturesqueness of form. All these
mountains are covered with perpetual snow, with the exception of
the highest peaks, on which, owing to their precipitousness, the
snow does not lie.

The southern mountains of Norway, which also run from N.E.
to S.W., are bounded by the Sognefjord on the N.W. , by the
Christiania Fjord on the S.W., and by a line drawn on the E. side
from the Fillefjeld to Christiania. Between the Sognefjord and
the Hardanger Fjord are the isolated plateaux of the Vosseskavl,
the Hardanger Jekul, and the Hallingskarv, rising above the snow-
line. The Hardanger Fjeld is separated by the innermost branch
of the Hardanger Fjord from the Folgefond (p. 55) , an extensive
snow-clad mountain with several peaks. To the S.E. of the Har-
danger-Fjord stretches the extensive Hardanger Vidde, with peaks
3000-4600 ft. in height, which gradually slope on the E. and S.
sides. Farther to the E. are the deep valleys of the picturesque
region of Telemarken, which frequently intersect each other. The
E. outpost of the whole of this mountain-region is the Skogs-
horn, to the N. ofthe Hallingdal. Farther to the E. are the Nume-
dal, Hallingdal, and Valders valleys , descending towards the S.
beyond which we again meet with a number of transverse valleys
where the most fertile land in Norway is situated (such as Hade-

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xxxvii

land on the Randsfjord and Ringerilce on the Tyrifjord). The
mountains then descend to the plain of Jarlsberg and Laurvig.
Among their last spurs are the" Gaust a and the Lidfjeld in Tele-
marken, and the isolated Norefjeld, rising between Lake Krederen
and the Eggedal.

The mountains extending towards the S.E. next enter the
Herjeadal and Vermeland in Sweden, where they contain valu-
able iron ores, particularly in Vermeland, Dalarne, and Vestman-
land. The range next runs between Lakes Venern and Vettern,
where it is called Tiveden, and extends to the E. under the names
of the Tydoskog and Kolmarden. It then intersects the province
of Gotland and forms the plateau of Smaland to the S. of Lake
Vettern. An important spur a little to the S. of that lake is the
Taberg, a hill containing about 30 per cent of iron ore. The hills
then gradually slope down to the plains of Skane and Halland,
where there are a few insignificant heights only. In the plains of
Gotland rise the isolated Kinnekulle on Lake Venern , the Halle-
berg, the Hunneberg, and the Omberg.

The Swedish islands of Gotland and Oland contain no hills
above 210 ft. in height.

To a comparatively recent geological period belongs the Swe-
dish Basin extending from the Skager Rak through Lakes Venern
and Vettern to Lake Malaren, the land to the S. of which was
probably once an island. These lakes are believed to have once
formed a water-way to the Gulf of Finland, which again was pro-
bably connected with the White Sea , and this theory seems to
be borne out by the fact that a kind of crayfish found in the
White Sea and Lake Venern does not exist in the Atlantic or in
the Baltic. The modern canal-route connecting these lakes is de-
scribed in RR. 37, 38, 40.

The coast to the N. of Stockholm is flat and well wooded, and
intersected by numerous rivers and long lakes, at the mouths of
which lie a number of towns chiefly supported by the timber-trade.
One of the most important lakes is the picturesque Siljan (p. 368),
through which the Osterdal-Elf flows. Below Falun that river joins
the Vesterdal-Elf, and their united waters form a fine cascade at
Elfkarleby. Of the many other rivers the most important are the
picturesque Angerman-Elf (p. 373), th.eLule-Elffa>. 375), and the
Tome-Elf (p. 376). The last, the longest of all, is connected by a
branch with the parallel river Kalix. Most of these eastern rivers
are rather a series of lakes connected by rapids and waterfalls. The
heavy rainfall in the mountain regions descending into the valleys,
where the sun has not sufficient power to evaporate it, forms these
lakes and extensive swamps, the overflow of which descends from
basin to basin till it reaches the sea. The lower ends of these
rivers are generally navigable for some distance. Steamboats ply
on the Angerman-Elf and the Lule-Elf (pp. 374, 375).

xxxviii IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Climate and Vegetation.

Temperature. Judging from the degrees of latitude within
Which the peninsula is situated, one would expect the climate to
be uniformly severe and inclement, hut this is only the case on
the E. coast and among the central mountains. The climate of the
W. coast is usually mild, being influenced by the Atlantic and
the Gulf Stream which impinges upon it. In the same latitude in
which Franklin perished in the Arctic regions of America, and in
which lies the almost uninhabitable region of E. Siberia, the water
of these western fjords of Norway never freezes except in their
upper extremities. As we proceed from W. to E., and in some
degree even from N. to S., the temperate character of the climate
changes, and the winters become more severe. The climate is
perhaps most equable at Skudesnces, near Stavanger, where the
mean temperature of January is 34.7uFahr., and that of July 55.4:
difference 20.7°. At Stockholm, on the other hand, the mean tem-
perature of January is 24.8°, and that of July 63.5°: difference
38.7°. The difference is still greater in many places farther to the
N., as at Jockmock (66° 36' N. lat. ; 925 ft. above the sea), where
the January temperature is 3.2°, that of July 57.92°, and the differ-
ence 54.90°. The tract lying between the Varanger Fjord and the
Gulf of Bothnia, the interior of Finmarken and Lapland, and the
southern mountains above the height of 2300 ft., all have an an-
nual mean temperature below the freezing point. Some of the
other isothermal lines are curious. Thus the line which marks a
mean January temperature of 32° Fahr. runs from the Lofoden
Islands southwards, passing a little to the E. of Bergen and through
the inner part of the Stavanger Fjord. It then turns to the S.E.
to Cape Lindesnses, and thence to the N.E. towards the Christia-
nia Fjord, and southwards to Gothenburg and Copenhagen. The
line marking a mean January temperature of 23° passes through
Hammerfest, Saltdalen, Reros, Christiania, and Upsala. In the
depth of winter, therefore, the Lofoden Islands are not colder than
Copenhagen, or Hammerfest than Christiania. Again, while the
mean temperature of the whole year at the North Cape is 35.6°, it
is no higher at Ostersund in Jemtland, 552 Engl. M. farther
south. Lastly, it may be mentioned that while the climate on the
W. coast is comparatively equable throughout the year, that of
the E. coast and the interior of the country is made up of a long,
severe winter and a short and sometimes oppressively hot summer.
The average temperature of the sea is 3y2-7° warmer than the air,
being of course lower than that of the air in summer and higher
in winter. The healthiest part of the peninsula is probably the
island of Karm», where the death rate is only 12 per thousand
The average rate for Norway is 19, for Sweden 20 per thousand.

Rainfall. In the interior of Norway less rain falls than on the
coast. In Sweden the greatest rainfall is between Gene and Gothen-

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

burg. . The mean rainfall in Sweden is 20.28 inches , that of
Gothenburg 28.18, and that of the E. coast 16.88 inches. August
is the rainiest month in Sweden , especially in the N. provinces.
In Norway the maximum rainfall is at Flore, where it sometimes
reaches 90-91 inches per annum ; on the S. coast the average is
about 40 inches, and on the "W. coast, to the S. and N. of Flore,
70-75 inches. August and September are the rainiest months in
the E. districts of Norway, but on the W. coast the rainy season
is somewhat later. June and July are therefore the best months
for travelling in Sweden and the E. districts of Norway, and July
and August for the W. coast. In the neighbourhood of the Roms-
dal the rainy season does not usually set in before December.
Hail and thunderstorms are rare in Norway. The latter, however,
are sometimes very violent on the W. coast, where no fewer than
forty churches have been destroyed by lightning within the last
150 years. The following table shows the mean temperature and
average rainfall in different parts of Norway : —

a o

.Sf-S

S.S

a o

tf.S

Varde . . . .
Nyborg ....
Fruholmen . .

Alien

Troms0 . . .
Andences . . .

Bode

Ranen ....
Brene ....
Yttereen . . .
Christiansund

39
26
36
46
38
250

70° 22'
70° 2'
71° 61
°58'
69° 39'
69° 20'
67° 17'
66° 12'
65° 28'
63° 49'
63° 7'

33.45
34.70
35.42
33.62
35.96
38.48
38.48
37.22
40.28
41.00
43.16

30.55

34.34
22.36
37.48

Ona ....
Dovre . . .
Reros . . .
Flore . . .
Bergen, . .
Ullensvang
Skudesnces
Lindemoes
Mandal . .
Sandesund
ChrisHania

52
2095
2075
29
49
33
36
29
56
42
79

14.39

75.27
72.25

42.83

55.11
23.14
21.19

Air Pressure. The pressure of the air in January is greatest
in the interior of N. Norway and lowest in Finmarken. In July it
is highest on the W. coast and lowest in the interior. The pre-
vailing winds in winter are accordingly land-winds, which are fre-
quently diverted towards the N. and follow the line of the coast.
In summer, on the other hand, "W. and S.W. winds prevail, blow-
ing towards the region where the air-pressure is lowest, also fre-
quently following the line of the coast towards the N., and rarely
impinging on the coast at a right angle. The most prevalent wind
blows from the S.W., and on the coast is usually accompanied with
dull weather, but this is less the case in the interior. The most
violent storms, which prevail chiefly in winter, come from the same
quarter. The mountains form a boundary between two distinct
climates, the W. wind being the dampest on the W. coast and the
driest in the interior.

xl IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The Vegetation, as might be expected from the climate and
the geological features of the peninsula, is generally poor, but the
flora is unusually rich for so northern a region. About 25,758
Engl. sq. M. are covered with forest , chiefly pines , the wood of
which is valuable owing to the closeness of the rings which mark
its annual growth. Next in point of frequency are the oak , the
birch, the elm, and the beech. Other trees occur frequently, but
not in the forests. The beech , which suffers more from cold than
the oak, but does not require so high a mean temperature, rarely
occurs in Sweden N. of Kalmar, while the oak is found as far N.
as Gefle. In Norway, on the other hand, the beech extends to a
point beyond Bergen, and the red beech even occurs at Thrond-
hjem. Near Laurvig, in latitude 59-59Y2° the beech is found in
considerable plantations. • — The apple-tree (Pyrus malm) occurs
as far as 65° 10' N. lat., the plum (Primus domestica) up to 64°,
and the cherry to 66°, while currants (Ribes nigrum and rubrum),
gooseberries (Ribes grossularia) , strawberries (Fragaria vesea),
raspberries (Iiubus idaeus), and the common bilberry (Vaccinium
myrtillusj occur as far north as the North Cape.

Wheat is cultivated as far as 64y20, and in the S. of the country
to a height of 1000-1250 ft. above the sea ; Rye grows as far N. as
69 °, and in the S. up to a height of 1950 ft. ; Barley and Oats
occur up to 70°, and in the S. to a height of 2050 ft. above the
sea. Botanists are referred to the instructive works of Schuebeler
and Axel Blytt. — The cultivated land in Norway occupies the
insignificant area of 1074 Engl. sq. M., but in Sweden 10,678 sq.
M. In the northern regions the Oxyria remiformis, a kind of sorrel,
is largely cultivated as a substitute for corn. It is kept in a frozen
condition in winter and boiled down to a pulp for use, being fre-
quently mixed with flour and made into Fladbred. In the S.
districts, however, the 'flat bread' is usually made of wheat or
barley flour mixed with mashed potatoes, and sometimes with
pease-meal. The Lapps mix their bread with reindeer-milk and
sometimes with the bitter Mulgedium alpinum , which is believed
to be a preventive of scurvy.

It is a curious fact that barley takes exactly the same time
(90 days) to ripen at Alten (70° N. lat.) as at Christiania and in
the S. of France, but it is now generally believed that the great
length of the Arctic days compensates for the lack of warmth. The
seed, however, if brought from a warmer climate, requires to be
acclimatised, and does not yield a good crop until after two or three
seasons , so that the effects of a bad harvest are felt for several
succeeding years.

The traveller will also observe that the leaves of most of the
trees which occur in the northern districts of Norway are larger
than those of trees of the same kind in the southern regions. Thus
the leaves of maples and plane-trees (Acer platanoides and pseudo-

IX. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. xli

platanus) transplanted from Christiania to Tromse have been found
to increase greatly in size , while the trees themselves become
dwarfed in their growth. This leaf development is also attributed
to the long continuance of the sunlight in summer. It would be
interesting to know what effects the protracted light produces on
the colours of flowers and the flavour of fruits , but these points
have not yet been investigated.

The Animal Kingdom comprises most of the domestic and other
animals common in Great Britain , besides many which are now
extinct there, and a number of others peculiar to the Arctic regions.
Among the animals most characteristic of the country are the rein-
deer (Cervus tarandus), an exceedingly useful mammal , and the
sole support of the nomadic Lapps, and the lemming (Georychus
lernmus), a rodent, somewhat resembling a water-rat, which some-
times affords food to the reindeer (see p. 151). Among beasts
of prey the bear and the wolf are still common in many parts of
the country, and the lynx and glutton occasionally occur. For
killing any one of these the government offers a reward of 25
crowns. Conspicuous among large game is the handsome elk
('Elgsdyr' ; Cervus aloes'), now becoming rare, next to which rank
the reindeer and the red deer. The finest of the wildfowl is the
capercailzie ('Tjur' ; Tetrao urogallus), after which come the ptar-
migan ('Rype'; Lagopus mutus) and hazel-grouse ('Hjerpe'; Tetrao
bonasia). Partridges rarely occur in Norway, but abound in the
S. of Sweden, where they were introduced about the year 1500.
The most valuable of the wildfowl , however, is the eider-duck
('Eder'; Anas mollissimd) , which is most abundant within the
Arctic Circle. The down of the female, which she uses in making
her nest, is gathered in the Dunvar of Finmarken, yielding a con-
siderable revenue.

The Population is now almost exclusively of Gothic origin, but
the oldest element consists of the Lapps and the Finns, who were pro-
bably the aboriginal inhabitants of the country and who both belong
to the Ugrian race. Their languages are both of the Turanian stock
(akin to Hungarian), and are said by Castren , the philologist, to
have been identical some 2000 years ago. The Lapps now number
about 24,000 only in Norway and Sweden, and the Finns about
22,000 souls. They are both of the Mongolian type, with high
cheek-bones, low foreheads, full lips, narrow eyes, blunt noses,
and yellowish complexions, but the Finns are now by far the su-
perior race, both physically and mentally. The names usually
applied to them are not used by themselves. The Lapps ('nomads')
call themselves Sami or Sahmelads, and the Finns ('fen-dwellers')
Suomi. — The dominant race, by which the Lapps have been well-
nigh extinguished , is of the Aryan or Indo-Germanic stock , and
is believed to have begun to settle in the peninsula before the
birth of Christ (see below). With regard to their language, see the

xlii X. HISTORY.

grammars at the end of the volume. — The total population of
Norway in 1884 was 1,913,100 ; that of Sweden at the end of 1886
was 4,717,100. The annual increase, which is slow, owing to the
frequency of emigration, now amounts in Norway to about 11,000,
and in Sweden to 20,000 per annum.

X. History of Sweden and Norway.

Prehistoric Period. The earliest antiquities in Scandinavia
belong to the Flint Period, during which the peninsula appears to
have been inhabited by the same race as Denmark and N. Ger-
many. Their rude implements indicate that they possessed fixed
dwelling-places and cattle, and were acquainted with the art of
fishing and probably of hunting also. They buried their dead in
large stone tomb-chambers. This epoch was succeeded by the
Bronze Period, when implements and ornaments in bronze and
even in gold were first imported into the country and afterwards
manufactured by the natives themselves. Agriculture was now
regularly practised , and the same domestic animals were used as
at the present day. The tombs of this period sometimes contain
cinerary urns, and sometimes bones unconsumed. During this and
the preceding period the population seems to have been confined
to Skane and Vester-Gotland. Lastly, about the time of the birth
of Christ, begins the Iron Period , when the use of that metal
was introduced from Central Europe. At the same time silver
and glass make their appearance, and Roman coins and 'bracteates'
(ornamental discs of metal) are occasionally found.

During this period also the contents of tombs prove that the
dead were sometimes burned and sometimes buried in coffins. The
cinerary urns are usually of terracotta, rarely of bronze. Among
other curiosities which have been found in the tombs are trinkets
and weapons, some of which appear to have been purposely broken.
To this period also belong the earlier Runic Inscriptions, in a large
character differing from that afterwards used. Quite distinct from
the earlier part of this era is the Later Iron Period, which be-
gan in Sweden about the year 500 or 600 and in Norway about
the year 700 A. D. The Runic inscriptions of this period are in
the smaller character, and the language had by this time attained
to nearly the same development as that used by the later MSS.,
while the native workmanship exhibits evidence of a new and in-
dependent, though still barbarous stage of culture.

To what race the inhabitants of Scandinavia during the first
and second of these periods belonged is uncertain, but it is sup-
posed that they were of the aboriginal Finnish stock. That the
relics of the following periods were left by a different race is most
probable, as no antiquities have been found which show a gradual
transition from the bronze to the early iron period, and it is well

X. HISTORY. xliii

ascertained that the inhabitants of the S. parts of the peninsula
■were of Germanic origin, both during the earlier and later iron
periods. It has also been ascertained that the older Runic alpha-
bet of 24 letters, common to Scandinavian , Anglo-Saxon , Bur-
gundian, and Gothic inscriptions, was afterwards modified by the
Scandinavians, who substituted for it the smaller character, con-
sisting of 16 letters only. It therefore seems to be a well estab-
lished fact that during the later iron period, if not earlier, the
Scandinavians had developed into a nationality distinct from the
ancient Goths or the Anglo-Saxons.

Transition to the Historical Period.

The earliest historical writers agree that Scandinavia was at
an early period inhabited partly by a Germanic race, and partly
by Finns or Lapps. The Germanic inhabitants, before whom the
weaker race seems gradually to have retreated , were first settled
in Skane (Skaney) in the S. of Sweden , whence the country was
named Scandia, and the people Scandinavians. The name of
'Swedes' is mentioned for the first time by Tacitus (Suiones), the
'Goths' are spoken of by Ptolemy, and the Suethans and Suethidi
(i. e. Svear and Svtthj6d~) by Jordanis. Jordanis also mentions
the Ostrogothae and Finnaithae, or the inhabitants of Oster-Gotland
and Finnveden in Sweden , the Dani or Danes , the Ilaumaricice
and Bagnaricii, or natives of Romerike and Raurike in Norway,
and lastly the Ethelrugi or Adalrygir, and the Ulmerugi or Holm-
rygir. As far back, therefore , as the beginning of our era , the
population in the S. of Sweden and Norway appears to have been
of the Gothic stock. To this also points the fact that the names
of Rugians , Burgundians , and Goths still occur frequently in
Scandinavia ; the Rygir were a Norwegian tribe , the name Bor-
gund and Bornholm (Borgundarholm) recur more than once , and
the district of Gotland and the island of Gotland or Gutland were
doubtless so called by Goths or Jutes. It is therefore more than
probable that the picturesque myth of the immigration of the jEsir
or ancient Scandinavians from Asia under the leadership of Odin
entirely lacks foundation in fact.

It is at least certain that the history of Scandinavia begins
with the later iron period. At that time the southernmost part of
Sweden seems to have belonged to the Danes. Farther N. was
settled the tribe of the Gotar, to whom belonged the adjacent is-
land of Oland, while Gotland appears to have been occupied by an
independent tribe. Still farther N. were the Svear, who occupied
Upland, Vestermanland, Sodermanland, andNerike. The territories
of the Gotar and the Svear were separated by dense forest, while
the latter were also separated from the Norwegian tribes by forests
and by Lake Venern and the Gotaelf . Beowulf, the famous Anglo-
Saxon epic poem, dating from about the year 700, mentions Den-

xliv X. HISTORY.

mark as an already existing kingdom, and also speaks of the differ-
ent states of the Gotar and Svear, which, however, by the 9th cent,
had become united , the Svear , or Swedes , being dominant.
The same poem refers to 'Norvegr' and 'Nordmenn', i.e. Norway
and the Northmen , but throws no light on their history. It
is, however, certain that the consolidation of Norway took place
much later than that of Denmark and Sweden, and doubtless after
many severe struggles. To the mythical period must be relegated
the picturesque stories of the early Ynglingar kings , beginning
with Olaf Tratelje, or the 'tree-hewer' ; but they are probably not
without some foundation in fact, and it is at any rate certain that the
migrations and piratical expeditions of the Northmen, which soon
affected the whole of the north of Europe, began about this time
(7th-8th cent. A. D.). The predatory campaigns of the Danish King
Hugleikr, which are mentioned both in the Beowulf and by Frankish
chroniclers, are doubtless a type of the enterprises of the vikings
(from Vik, 'creek), which continued down to the 11th century. The
Swedes directed their attacks mainly against Finland , Kurland,
Esthonia, and Russia, which last derived its name and its political
organisation from Sweden ; the Danes undertook expeditions against
France and England, and the Norwegians chiefly against the north
of England, Scotland, the Orkney and Shetland Islands, and the
Hebrides.

Norway before the Union.
From the semi-mythical Ynglingar and Olaf Trsetelje, who is
said to have flourished about the middle of the 7th cent., Half dan
Svarte, king of a part of Norway corresponding with the present
Stift of Christiania, professed to trace his descent. His son Harald
Haarfager ('fair-haired'), after several severe conflicts, succeeded
in uniting the whole of Norway under his sceptre after the deci-
sive battle of the Hafrsfjord near Stavanger in 872. The final
consolidation of the kingdom, however, was not effected until a
century later. The kingdom was repeatedly attacked by the petty
kings who had been banished , while great numbers of the pea-
santry, to escape the burdens of taxation, emigrated to the Orkney
and Shetland Islands, to Iceland, and even to the Hebrides. In
this weakened condition Harald transmitted the crown to his fa-
vourite son Eirtkr Blddox. whose exploits as a viking had gained for
him the sobriquet of 'bloody axe'. After having slain several of
his brothers, Eric was expelled about the year 935 by Haakon the
Good , who in his turn was defeated and slain by Eric's sons at
the battle of Fitjar in 961. Among the sons of Eric, several of
whom were put to death by their own subjects, the most disting-
uished was Harald Graafeld, who was, however, at length defeated
by the Jarl (earl) of Lade in the district of Throndhjem, with the
aid of Harald Gormsson, king of Denmark (970). At this period
a number of petty kings still maintained themselves on the fjords

X. HISTORY. xlv

and in the interior of the country, trusting for support from the
kings of Sweden and Denmark. The Jarls of Lade, who ruled
over Throndhjem, Helgeland, Namdalen, and Nordmere, acknow-
ledged the supremacy of the kings of Norway, until Haakon Jarl
transferred his allegiance to the kings of Denmark. On the out-
break of war between Denmark and Germany he succeeded in
throwing off the Danish yoke, but did not assume the title of
king. Haakon was at length slain by one of his own slaves during
an insurrection of the peasantry (995) , whereupon Olaf Trygg-
vason , a descendant of Haarfager , obtained possession of the
kingdom, together with the fjords and inland territory which had
belonged to Haakon. With the accession of Olaf begins a new
era in the history of Norway.

In the 10th century Paganism in the north was in a moribund
condition. Based on the dual system of a world of gods (Asyardr,
Godheimr) and a realm of giants (Vtgardr, Jotunheimr), it regarded
mankind (Midgardr, Mannheimr) as a kind of object of contention
between the two. All alike partook equally of the joys and sorrows
of life, of sin, and even of death. The period of the vikings,
however, to the close of which we owe the Eddas, materially altered
the tenets of the old religion. As victory was their great object,
they elevated Odin, , the god of victory , to the highest rank in
their pantheon, while Thor, the god of thunder, had hitherto
reigned supreme. The bards depict in glowing colours the halls
of Odin, which become the abode of heroes slain in war. But as
the gods had been in many respects lowered to the rank of men,
and were themselves believed to have their destinies swayed by
fate , it necessarily followed that they were not themselves the
Creators, but at most the intermediate artificers and administrators
of earth. They therefore failed to satisfy the religious wants of
men, who began to speculate as to the true and ultimate Creator
of the universe , and it was about this period that Christianity
began to dawn on the benighted north. The vikings came into
frequent contact with Christian nations, and Christian slaves were
frequently brought to Norway and Sweden. Many of the Northmen
professed to be converted , but either retained many of their old
superstitions or speedily relapsed into them. A few, however,
embraced the new religion zealously , and it is to them that the
final conversion of the peninsula was due. The first Christian
monarch was Haakon the Good, who had been brought up by King
Athelstane in England, and been baptised there ; but his attempts
to convert his people were violently opposed and met with no success.
The sons of Eric, who had also been converted in England, showed
little zeal for Christianity, and under Haakon Jarl heathenism
was again in the ascendant. At length when Olaf Tryggvason,
who had also become a Christian, ascended the throne, he brought
missionaries from England and Germany to Norway and succeed-

xlvi X. HISTORY.

ed in evangelising Norway, Iceland, the Orkney and Shetland
Islands and the Faroes , partly by persuasion , and partly by inti-
midation or by bribery. Iceland, however, had already been partly
converted by Thorvaldr Vidforli , a native missionary , aided by
the German bishop Friedrich.

King Svejn Tveskag ('double beard') of Denmark now attempt-
ed to re-establish the Danish supremacy over Norway, and for
this purpose allied himself with his stepson King Olaf, Skot-
konung or tributary king of Sweden , and with Eric, the son of
Haakon, by whose allied fleets Olaf Tryggvason was defeated and
slain in the great naval battle of Svold, on the coast of Pomerania,
about the year 1000. Norway was now partitioned between the
kings of Denmark and Sweden, who ceded most of their rights to
the Jarls Eric and Svejn, sons of Haakon Ladejarl. The kingdom,
however, was soon permanently re-united by St. Olaf , son of
Harald Grenski , and a descendant of Harald Haarfager. After
having been engaged in several warlike expeditions , and having
been baptised either in England or in Normandy , he returned
to Norway in 1014 to assert his claim to the crown. Aided by
his stepfather Sigud Syr, king of Ringerike, and by others of the
minor inland kings, he succeeded in establishing his authority
throughout the whole country , and thereupon went to work
energetically to consolidate and evangelise his kingdom. His
severity, however, caused much discontent, and his adversaries were
supported by Canute , king of England and Denmark, who still
asserted his claim to Norway. Canute at length invaded Nor-
way and was proclaimed king, while Olaf was compelled to seek an
asylum in Russia (1028). Having returned with a few followers to
regain his crown , he was defeated and slain at Stiklestad near
Levanger on 29th July, 1030. Canute's triumph , however, was
of brief duration. He ceded the reins of government to Haakon
Jarl Erikssen, and after the death of the jarl to his son Svejn and
the English princess Aelgifu , the mother of the latter ; but a
reaction speedily set in, stimulated chiefly by the rumour of Olaf's
sanctity , which found ready credence and was formally declared
by a national assembly. Olaf's son Magnus, who had been left by
his father in Russia, was now called to the throne , and Svejn was
obliged to flee to Denmark (1035). The sway of Magnus was at
first harsh, but he afterwards succeeded in earning for himself the
title of 'the good'. In accordance with a treaty with Hardicanute
in 1038, he ascended the throne of Denmark after the Danish
monarch's death in 1042, but his right was disputed by Svend
Estridssen. In 1046 he assumed as co-regent the turbulent Harald
Sigurdssen, step-brother of St. Olaf, who succeeded him on his
death in 1047. After a series of violent conflicts with Svend
Harald was obliged to renounce his pretensions to the crown of
Denmark , but on Harald's death at the Battle of Hastings (1066)

X. HISTORY. ilTii

the hostilities between Norway and Denmark broke out anew.
Harald was succeeded by Olaf Haraldss#n, who in 1068 entered
into a new treaty with Svend of Denmark at Kongshelle, whereby
the independence of Norway was finally established.

Olaf, who was surnamed Hinn Kyrri, or 'the peaceful', now
devoted his attention to the internal organisation of his kingdom,
and several of the Norwegian towns began to attain importance.
Skfringssalr (near Laurvik) and the neighbouring Tensberg already
existed; Nidaros (afterwards Throndhjem) is said to have been
founded by Olaf Tryggvason, Sarpsborg by St. Olaf, and Oslo by
Harald Hardraade; but the foundation of Bergen and several other
towns, probably including Stavanger, is attributed to Olaf Kyrri.
His court was famed for its magnificence and the number of its
dignitaries , and at the same time he zealously promoted the in-
terests of the church. While Olaf's predecessors had employed
missionaries, chiefly English, for the conversion of their subjects,
he proceeded to establish three native bishoprics and to erect
cathedrals at Nidaros , Bergen , and Oslo, making the dioceses as
far as possible coextensive with the three provinces in which
national diets (Thing) were held. His warlike son Magnus Barfod
(1093-1103), so surnamed from the dress of the Scotch Highland-
ers which he had adopted , did not reign long enough seriously
to interrupt the peaceful progress of his country , and the three
sons of Magnus, 0ystein (d. 1122), Sigurd (d. 1130), and Olaf
(d. 1115), thereafter proceeded to carry out the plans of their
grandfather. Sigurd was surnamed Jorsalafarer ('Jerusalem farer')
from his participation in one of the Crusades (1107-11). The
same devotion to the church also led about this period to the
foundation of the bishopric of Stavanger, and of several mon-
asteries (those of Saela in the Nordfjord, Nidarholm near Thrond-
hjem, Munkelif at Bergen, and Gims» near Skien), and to the in-
troduction of the compulsory payment of tithes (Tiende, 'tenths',
known in Scotland as 'teinds'), a measure which secured indepen-
dence to the church. King 0ystein is said to have been versed
in law , and both he and several of his predecessors have been
extolled as lawgivers, but no distinct trace of legislation in Nor-
way of a period earlier than the beginning of the 12th cent, has
been handed down to us.

After Sigurd's death the succession to the throne was disputed
by several claimants , as , in accordance with the custom of the
country, all relations in equal propinquity to the deceased,
whether legitimate or not, enjoyed equal rights. The confusion
was farther aggravated by the introduction (in 1 129) of the custom
of compelling claimants whose legitimacy was challenged to un-
dergo the 'iron ordeal', the practical result of which was to pave
the way for the pretensions of adventurers of all kinds. Conflicts
thus arose between Harald Oilli, a natural son of Magnus Barefoot,

xlviii X. HISTORY.

and Magnus Sigurdssen ; between Sigurd Slembedegn, who claimed
to be a brother of Harald , and Ingi and Sigurd Munn, sons of
Harald ; and afterwards between Ingi and Haakon Herdebred, a
son of Sigurd Munn. All these pretenders to the throne perished
in the course of this civil war. Ingi was defeated and slain by
Haakon in 1161 , whereupon his partisans elected as their king
Magnus Erlingssen,'who'wa.s the son oi a daughter of Sigurd Jorsala-
farer. Haakon in his turn having fallen in battle, his adherents
endeavoured to find a successor, but Erling, the father of Magnus,
whose title was defective, succeeded in obtaining the support of
Denmark by the cession of Vigen, and also that of the church.

Meanwhile the church had firmly established her power in the
north. At first the sees of Sweden and Norway had been under
the jurisdiction of the archbishops of Hamburg and Bremen , but
in 1103 an archiepiscopal see was erected at Lund in Skane. The
Norwegians, however , desiring an archbishop of their own , Pope
Eugene II. sent Cardinal Nicholas Breakespeare to Norway for the
purpose of erecting a new archbishopric there , and at the same
time a fifth bishopric was erected at Hamar. The new archbis-
hop's jurisdiction also extended over the sees of Iceland, Green-
land, the Faroes, the Orkneys, the Hebrides, and the Isle of Man,
and his headquarters were established at Throndhjem. In 1164
Erling Jarl induced Archbishop Eystein to crown his son Magnus,
a ceremony which had never yet taken place in Norway , and at
the same time he engaged to make large concessions to the church,
including a right to a voice in the election of future kings.

Supported by the church, personally popular, and a meritorious
administrator , Magnus had at first no difficulty in maintaining
his position, but his title and the high privileges he had accorded
to the church did not long remain unchallenged.

After several insurrections against Magnus had been quelled,
there arose the formidable party of the Birkebeiner ('birch-legs', so
called from the bark of the birch which they used to protect their
feet), who in 1177 chose as their chief Sverre, a natural son of
Sigurd Munn, who had been brought up as a priest, and who soon
distinguished himself by his energy and prudence. In 1179 Erling
was defeated and slain by Sverre at Nidaros, and in 1184 his son
Magnus met the same fate in the naval battle of Fimreite in the Sogn
district. Sverre's right to the crown, however, was immediately
challenged by new pretenders, and he incurred the bitter hostility
of the church by ignoring the concessions granted to it by Magnus.
In 1190 Archbishop Eric, Eystein's successor fled the country and
the king and his followers were excommunicated ; but , though
severely harassed by several hostile parties, particularly the Bagler
(the episcopal party, from Bagall, 'baculus', a pastoral staff), Sverre
died unconquered in 1202. He was succeeded by his son Haakon
(d. 1204), by Guttorm Sigurdssen (d. 1204), and by Inge Baardssen

X. HISTORY. xlix

(d. 1217), under whom the hostilities with the church still con-
tinued. For a time, however, peace was re-established by Haakon
Haakonssan (1217-63), a grandson of Sverre, under whom Norway
attained a high degree of prosperity. His father-in-law Skule Jarl,
brother of King Inge, on whom he conferred the title of duke, proved
his most serious opponent, but on the death of the duke in 1240 the
civil wars at length terminated. New rights were soon afterwards
conferred on the church, but of a less important character than those
bestowed by Magnus Erlingss»n, the clergy being now excluded
from a share in the election of kings. The king also amended the
laws and sought to extend his territory. Since the first colonisa-
tion of Iceland (874-930) the island had been independent , but
shortly before his death Haakon persuaded the natives to acknow-
ledge his supremacy. In 1261 he also annexed Greenland , which
had been colonised by Icelanders in the 10th cent, and previous-
ly enjoyed independence, so that, nominally at least, his sway
now extended over all the dioceses subject to the see of Thrond-
hjem, including the Orkney and Shetland Islands, the Faroes, the
Hebrides, and the Isle of Man. His claim to the Hebrides being
disputed by Alexander III. of Scotland, he assembled a fleet for the
purpose of asserting it, and set sail for the Orkney Islands, where
he died in 1263. He was succeeded by his son Magnus Lagabeter
('betterer of laws'), who by the treaty of Perth in 1268 renounced
his claims to the Hebrides and Man in return for a small payment
from Alexander. In his reign, too, the Swedish frontier, long a
subject of dispute, was clearly denned, and the relations between
church and state were placed on a more satisfactory footing.

Constitution. From an early period Norway was divided into
four large districts , each presided over by a Thing or Lagthing
(Legthing), a diet with judicial and legislative functions. The
eight Fylker or provinces of Throndhjem sent representatives to
the Frostuthing, so named from Frosten, the meeting-place of the
diet , and to these were afterwards added Helgeland , Namdalen,
Nordmere, and Romsdalen. The Oulathing, in the Fylke of Gulen,
embraced the Fylker of Firda, Sygna, and Herda, to which Roga-
land, Agder, and Sondmere were afterwards added. The district
of Vigen appeals to have had a Thing of its own , which after the
time of St. Olaf met at Sarpsborg and was called the Borgarthing ;
but from the 12th cent, onwards representatives were sent to this
diet by Ranrfki , Vingulmerk , Vestvold , and Grenafylke also.
Lastly the mountain districts of Heina, Hada, and Rauma held a
diet called the Heidscevisthing, afterwards named the Eidsifathing
from Eidsvold where it assembled. This diet, though separate
from that of Vigen, was under the same law, which had been de-
clared common to both by St. Olaf. A committee of each diet,
called the Legretta, chosen by the king's officers , performed the
judicial duties of the diet, while the Lflgthing itself exercised

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. cl

1 X. HISTORY.

jurisdiction over the diets held at irregular intervals in the differ-
ent Fylker. Resolutions were passed by a majority of the peas-
antry at the diet. The four cities of Throndhjem, Bergen, Tens-
berg, and Oslo each possessed a distinct Legthing , the law ad-
ministered by which was called 'Bjarkeyjarrettr'.

King Magnus proceeded to abolish these diets (in 1267 and
1268), but was prevented from finally accomplishing his object
by the protest of Archbishop Jon Raudi at the diet of Frosten
(1269). He then directed his attention to the amendment of the
laws. In 1271 a code called Jarnsida ('iron side') was completed,
and in 1272-4 a new code was promulgated at the Frostuthing,
which seems to have been immediately adopted by the other
districts. In 1276 a new municipal law was introduced at Bergen
and soon afterwards into the other towns also ; and lastly the
J6nsb6k, a collection of the laws of the mainland , was compiled
in 1280 and promulgated in Iceland. From these codes ecclesias-
tical law was excluded. Though each of them bears a distinctive
name, such as 'Law of the Frostuthing', 'Town Laws of Bergen',
etc., and is somewhat modified to suit the requirements of the
district or town which adopted it , they substantially formed a
single code for the whole kingdom. The whole country was now
subject to the jurisdiction of the four diets, with the exception of
Helgelaml, Jemtland, and Herjedalen , which still formed inde-
pendent districts. Meanwhile King Magnus concluded a Concordat
with the church at Bergen in 1273 and another at Tensberg in
1277, and at the same time sanctioned an ecclesiastical code
drawn up by Archbishop Jon , wherein he renounced all control
over ecclesiastical causes and over the election of prelates. An-
other interesting code of this period was the Hirdskraa ('law of
servants', probably 1274-77), which affords an insight into the
early condition of Norway.

Magnus Lagabeter died in 1280 and was followed by his son
Eric Magnuss«n (d. 1299), who was succeeded by his brother
Haakon Magnuss«n (d. 1319). Under these monarchs the con-
cessions of Magnus to the church formed the subject of constant
dispute , and it was not till 1458 that they were finally secured
to the hierarchy by Christian IV. In their secular administration,
however, the sons of Magnus experienced less difficulty. At first
the functions of the Legthing or diets had been deliberative, judi-
cial and legislative, and those of the king executive only, but the
constitution gradually assumed a more monarchical form. The
first step was to transfer the judicial powers of the diets to offi-
cials appointed by the king himself. The Legmenn ('lawyers')
had originally been skilled assessors at the diets , elected and
paid by the peasantry, but from the beginning of the 13th cent,
onwards it was customary for the king to appoint them , and they
became the sole judges of all suits in the first instance. In the

X. HISTORY. li

second or higher instance the diet was still nominally the
judge, but it was presided over by the Legmann and attended by
others of the king's officials. The king himself also asserted a right
to decide cases in the last instance , with the aid of a 'council of
the wisest men'. The four ancient diets were thus in the course
of time transformed into ten or twelve minor diets, presided over
by L»gmenn.

At the same time great changes in the social and political
system were effected. In accordance with the old feudal system,
it had been customary for the kings to bestow temporary and re-
vocable grants of land (' Veitsla', probably from veiUa, 'to bestow')
on their retainers and courtiers ('Hird'), on the understanding
that the tenants ('Huskarlar') would administer justice , collect
the taxes, and render military and other services. In some cases,
too, a Jarl was appointed governor of a considerable district and
invested with extensive powers and practical independence , and
it was usual for the king to confirm the heirs of these officials and
dignitaries in their respective lands and offices. All these minor
jurisdictions, however, were abolished by Haakon Magnussen
(1308), who directed that all his officials should in future be
under his own immediate control. Thus, by the beginning of the
14th cent. , the Norwegian monarchs had attained a position of
great independence, and had emancipated themselves alike from
democratic and from aristocratic interference. The peasantry,
however, always enjoyed greater freedom than in most other Euro-
pean countries, and possessed their lands in freehold, being them-
selves lords of a great part of their native soil ; but they never
attained to much wealth or importance, as the trade of the country
from a very early period was monopolised by Germans and other
foreigners. Of scarcely greater importance was the nobility of the
country, their lack of influence being due to want of organisation
and political coherence.

The Intellectual Culture of Norway during this period, as may
be supposed, made no great progress. The Runic character had
indeed been in use from the early Iron Period downwards , but it
was merely employed for short inscriptions and rude registers of
various kinds, and not for literary purposes. On the foundation
of the archbishopric of Land , the Latin character was at length
introduced, but before that period all traditions and communica-
tions were verbal , and it is mainly to the bards or minstrels
('Skildskapr') that we owe the preservation of the ancient mythi-
cal and historical sagas or 'sayings'. About the year 1190 the
Latin character began to be applied to the native tongue, both for
secular and religious purposes. Of the exceedingly rich 'Old
Northern' literature which now sprang up , it is a singular fact
that by far the greater part was written by Icelanders. Among
the most famous of these were Ari Fr6di (d. 1148), the father of

lii X. HISTORY.

northern history; Oddr Snorrason and Qunnlaugr Leifsson
(d. 1218), the biographers of King Olaf Tryggvason ; the prior
Styrmir Karason (d. 1245). the biographer of St. Olaf; the abbot
Karl Jonsson (d. 1212), the biographer of King Sverre ; and lastly
Eirfkr Oddsson, Snorri Sturluson (d. 1241), and Sturla Thordarson
(d. 1284), who were both historians of the kings of Norway and
zealous collectors of their own island lore. The bards attached to
the Scandinavian courts were also generally Icelanders. To Nor-
wegian authorship are traceable comparatively few literary works,
the most important being juridical compilations, the 'King"s
Mirror', which affords an insight into the court-life and commer-
cial transactions of the 13th cent., the 'Anekdoton Sverreri', a
polemic in favour of the crown against the church, several ballads
of the earlier Edda , and a number of romances translated from
English and French. This poverty of the literature of the main-
land is doubtless to be accounted for by the fact that it was con-
stantly harassed by wars and intestine troubles at this period,
while Iceland was in the enjoyment of peace. While, moreover,
in Norway the clergy held themselves aloof from the people and
from secular pursuits , and the nobles were busily engaged in
fashioning their titles, their manners, and their costumes on the
model of those of their more civilised neighbours , the Icelanders
of all classes retained their national coherence in a far higher
degree , all contributing with equal zeal to the patriotic task of
extolling their island and preserving its ancient traditions.

Sweden before the Union.

With regard to the early history of Sweden there exist no
chronicles similar to those of the Icelanders and Norwegians. It
is ascertained, however, that the country was partly evangelised
in the 9th cent, by Anskar (d. 865) and other German missionaries,
and by his successor Rimbert (d. 888). Archbishop Vnni after-
wards preached the Gospel in Sweden, where he died in 936, and
after the foundation of several bishoprics in Denmark about the
middle of the 10th cent., Sweden was visited by several other
German and Danish missionaries. The secular history of the
country is involved in much obscurity , from which , however , it
to some extent emerges when it comes into contact with that of
Norway. About the end of the 10th century Olaf Skotkonung
('tributary king') took part in the battle of Svold against Olaf of
Norway and in the subsequent dismemberment of that country.
He was afterwards compelled by his own peasantry to promise to
come to terms with St. Olaf, and on his failure was threatened
with deposition. He was then obliged to assume his son Onund
as co-regent , and had to make peace with Norway about the
year 1019. Olaf and Onund are said to have been the first Chris-
tian kings of Sweden. Onund was succeeded by his brother

X. HISTORY. liii

Emund (d. 1056), the last of Ms royal house , on whose death
hostilities broke out between the Gotar, who were now inclined
in favour of Christianity and the more northern and less civilised
Svear , who were still sunk in paganism. Emund had been in-
different about religion , but his successor Stenkil Ragnvaldsson
was a zealous Christian and was keenly opposed by the Svear. On
the death of Stenkil about 1066 open war broke out between the
Christian and the pagan parties. When his successor Inge Sten-
kilsson (d. 1112), in whose reign the archbishopric of Lund was
erected (1103), forbade heathen sacrifices, the Svear set up his
brother-in-law Blot-Sven as a rival king, but Inge and his nephews
and successors, Inge II. (d. about 1120) and Philip (d. about 1130),
succeeded in maintaining their independence. These dissensions
greatly weakened the resources of the kingdom. Stenkilsson fought
successfully against Magnus Barfod of Norway and acquittedhimself
honourably at Kongshelle (1101), but his successors often allowed
the Norwegians to invade their territory with impunity.

On the death of Philip, Magnus, a Danish prince, and grand-
son of Stenkilsson, assumed the title of king in Gotaland, but
was defeated and slain in 1134 by Sverker I., who had been elected
king two years previously. Sverker was next opposed by Erik
Jedvardsson, who was proclaimed king by the Svear, and on Sver-
ker's death in 1156 this Erik, commonly called the 'Ninth' and
sumamed the 'Saint', obtained undivided possession of the throne.
Eric, a zealous churchman, converted the temple of Upsala into a
Christian place of worship , and conquered and Christianised
the S.W. part of Finland. In 1160 he was attacked and slain by
Magnus Henriksson, a Danish prince, who laid claim to the throne,
and who in the following year was defeated and slain by Karl
Sverkersson. The latter in his turn was slain by Erik Knutsson in
1167, and the contest between the rival houses of Sverker and
Eric lasted down to 1222. Eric died in 1195, his successor Sverker
Karlsson in 1210, and Jon Sverkersson , the son of the latter and
the last of his family, in 1222, whereupon Erik Lsespe ('the lis-
ping'), a son of Eric Knutsson , ascended the throne unopposed.
Meanwhile the Svear, or Swedes in the narrower sense , had been
converted to Christianity. The church was at first presided over
by missionary bishops only , but in the reign of Olaf Eriksson a
bishopric was erected at Skara , and under Stenkil another at
Sigtuna. Under King Sverker a bishop of Oster-Gotland was ap-
pointed, with his residence at Linkoping , one for the diocese of
Upper Sweden at Upsala, and others for SSdermanland and Vester-
manland at Strongnas and Vesteras , while several monasteries
were also founded. The primacy of Sweden was granted to Arch-
bishop Eskil of Lund by Hadrian IV. (Nicholas Breakespeare) about
the year 1154, but in 1163 was transferred to Stephanus, the newly
created Archbishop of Upsala.

liv X. HISTORY.

Eric Laespe , though respected by his subjects , was a weak
prince. Long before his time the Folkungar, a wealthy family of
Ostef-Gotland, had gradually attained to great power, and Birger
Brosa (d. 1202), a member of the family , had obtained the title
of Jarl or Duke of the Swedes and Gotlanders. From an early
period , moreover , intermarriages had taken place between the
Folkungar and the royal families of Sweden , Norway , and Den-
mark. In 1230 an attempt to dethrone Eric was made by Knut
Jonsson, a distant cousin of Birger , but Knut was defeated and
slain in 1234, and his son was executed as a rebel in 1248. The
position of the family, however, remained unaffected. Birger Jarl,
a nephew of Birger Brosa , married Ingeborg , the king's sister,
while Eric himself married a member of the Folkungar family
(1243). Birger now became the real ruler of Sweden, the terri-
tory of which he extended by new conquests in Finland. On the
death of Eric, the last scion of the house of St. Eric, without
issue in 1250, Valdemar, Birger's son, was proclaimed the succes-
sor of his uncle. During Birger's regency the country prospered,
but on his death in 1266 hostilities broke out between his sons.
The weak and incapable Valdemar was dethroned by his brother
Magnus (1275), whose vigorous administration resembled that of
his father, and who maintained friendly relations with the Hanse-
atlc League. He also distinguished himself as a lawgiver and an
upholder of order and justice, and earned for himself the surname
of Ladulas ('barn-lock', i. e. vindicator of the rights of the
peasantry).

In 1290 Magnus was succeeded by his son Birger Magnusson,
during whose minority the government was ably conducted by
Marshal Thorgils Knutsson , but serious quarrels afterwards broke
out between Magnus and his brothers, the dukes Eric and Valde-
mar. In 1304 the dukes were banished, and in 1306 the faithful
marshal was executed by the king's order. Soon afterwards,
however, the dukes returned and obtained possession of the king's
person. After several vicissitudes, peace was declared and the
kingdom divided among the brothers in 1310 and again in 1313. In
1318, however, the dukes were arrested, imprisoned, and cruelly
put to death by their brother's order, whereupon Birger himself
was dethroned and banished to Denmark (d. 1321). The following
year Magnus, the infant son of Duke Eric, was elected king
at the Mora Stones of Upsala (p. 356), while Magnus, Birger's
son, was taken prisoner and executed. The first attempts to unite
the Scandinavian kingdoms were made in the reign of Magnus
Eriksson.

The Constitution of Sweden at first resembled that of Norway.
The country was divided into districts, called Land, Folkland or
Landskap , each of which was subdivided into Hundari ('hun-
dreds'), called in Gotland Harath. Each 'Land' had its diet or

X. HISTORY. Iv

Thing, presided over by a Lagman, and each hundred had its
Harathsthing , whose president was called a Domar ('pronouncer
of dooms') or Harathshof thing . The Landsthing exercised delib-
erative and judicial functions, and each had its own code of laws.
Precedence among these diets was enjoyed by the Svea Thing or
that of Upper Sweden , at which , although the monarchy was
nominally hereditary, kings were first elected. After his election
each new king had to swear to observe the laws, and to proceed
on the 'Eriksgata', or a journey to the other diets , in order to
procure confirmation of his title. Resolutions of the Svea Thing
were even binding on the king himself. As the provincial laws
differed, attempts to codify them were made in the 13th and at
the beginning of the 14th cent., but with the consolidation of
the kingdom these differences were gradually obliterated. The
chief difference between Sweden and Norway was the prepon-
derance of the aristocratic element in the former. From an early
period, moreover, it had been usual to hold diets composed of the
higher officials, the barons, prelates, and large landed proprietors,
and to these after the close of the 13th cent, were added the Lag-
menn. This aristocratic diet was farther enlarged by Magnus
Ladulas (1280) , who admitted to it all knights willing to serve
him in the field , according to them the same exemption from
taxation as that enjoyed by his courtiers and by the clergy. As
no one, however, in accordance with a law of 1285, could attend
these diets without a summons from the king himself, he retained
the real power in his own hands and reserved a right to alter the
laws with the advice of the diet. From an early period the Lag-
man and the Harathshofthing had been the sole judges in lawsuits,
and from the first half of the 14th cent, downwards they were
proposed by the people, but appointed by the king. At the same
time the king possessed a right of reviewing all judgments in the
last instance. No taxes could be exacted or troops levied without
the consent of the popular diets, and it therefore became custom-
ary as early as the 13th cent, for the kings to employ mercenary
troops. — The privileges of the church were well defined, but
less extensive than in Norway. The payment of tithes was com-
pulsory, and in 1248 and 1250 the right to elect bishops was
vested in the chapters, while all the clergy were prohibited from
taking oaths of secular allegiance. At the same period the celibacy
of the clergy was declared compulsory. As early as 1200 the
clergy was declared amenable to the ecclesiastical jurisdiction
only , and in some cases the church-courts could even summon
laymen before them. On the other hand the supreme legislative
power in church matters still belonged to the state, and parishes
enjoyed the right of electing their pastor when no express right of
patronage existed. — In the latter half of the 13th cent, the dig-
nity of Jarl or earl was abolished, and the Drotsmte ('high steward'),

lTi X. HISTORY.

Marsker ('marshal'), and Kanceler ('chancellor') now became the
chief officials of the crown. The rest of the aristocracy consisted
of the courtiers and royal vassals, the barons and knights (Riddare),
the esquires (Sven af vapen, Vapnare), and even simple freemen
■who were willing to render military service whenever required.
Between all these and the peasantry there was a wide social gap.
The history of early Swedish Literature is well-nigh an ab-
solute blank. The oldest work handed down to us is a com-
pilation of the laws of West Gotland, dating from the beginning
of the 12th century. A few meagre historical writings in Latin,
a work concerning the 'Styrilse kununga ok hofdinga' (the rule of
kings and governors), and several translations of foreign romances
also belong to this period.

Transition to the Union.

On the death of Haakon Magnussen of Norway in 1319 without
male issue, he was succeeded by Magnus Eriksson, afterwards
called Magnus Smek ('the luxurious') , the son of his daughter
Ingeborg and the Swedish Duke Erik , and at that time a child of
three years. On the banishment of King Birger in 1319 Magnus
was also elected King of Sweden , so that the two crowns were
now united, but it was arranged that each country should retain
its own administration. The union, however, was not attended
with happy results. At first Sweden was prudently governed by
the regent Mats Ketilmundsson , and in 1332 the province of
Skane, which had been pledged to the Swedish Marshal von Eber-
stein by Erik Menved and Christopher II. of Denmark (1318),
declared itself in favour of Magnus. The king, however, who
soon afterwards assumed the reins of government, and his queen
Blanche of Namur , were ruled by unworthy favourites and soon
forfeited the respect of their people. A disastrous fire at Thrond-
hjem (1343), great inundations in the Guldal and Orkedal (1345),
and above all the plague which swept away about two-thirds of
the population (1349-50) aggravated the discontent of the Nor-
wegians, who in 1350 elected Haakon Magnusson, the minor son
of Magnus , regent of Norway, and in 1355 Haakon entered upon
his functions, the province of Vigen and Iceland alone being
reserved to his father. In Sweden Magnus consolidated the pro-
vincial laws and drew up a new municipal code in 1347 but here
too he was overtaken by many troubles. The aristocracy resented
his endeavours to restrain their excesses, the people were exas-
perated by the unsuccessful issue of his Russian campaigns (1348-
49, 1350-51), the plague intensified their dissatisfaction in 1350,
and lastly the king was exsommunicated in 1358 on account of
his failure to pay debts due to the pope. Eric, the king's son
took advantage of these troubles and assumed the title of king in
1356, but died in 1359. New disasters, however, soon followed.

X. HISTORY. Mi

In 1360 the Danes regained Skane and in 1361 they took posses-
sion of the islands of Oland and Gotland. In 1363 Haakon married
the princess Margaret, daughter of King Valdemar of Denmark,
then eleven years old, a union which gave great offence to the
Swedish nobles , who were farther exasperated by the reconcilia-
tion of Haakon with his father. Magnus now banished twenty-
four of his most obnoxious opponents, who proceeded to Mecklen-
burg and offered the crown to Albert, second son of the duke and
of Euphemia, a daughter of Duke Eric of Sweden.

Albert accordingly came to Sweden in 1363, and in 1365 Mag-
nus and Haakon were defeated at Gata, near Enkoping, where the
former was taken prisoner. In 1370-71 a rebellion in favour of
Magnus took place in Upper Sweden, and in 1471 Haakon invaded
the country with a Norwegian army, but peace was shortly after-
wards concluded, and Magnus set at liberty on payment of a heavy
ransom and on condition that he would not again lay claim to the
Swedish crown. The death of Magnus in 1374 finally extinguished
the hopes of those in favour of union. Albert was now compelled
to place himself under the guidance of the powerful aristocratic
party. In 1375 Bo Jonsson, the most powerful noble in Sweden,
was appointed Drost or regent. Meanwhile the Norwegian nobil-
ity under King Haakon had attained to considerable indepen-
dence, while in the towns the dominant party consisted entirely
of Germans , whose proceedings were often most oppressive and
tyrannical. Even in Sweden, in accordance with the municipal
code of Magnus Smek , one-half of the burgomasters and civic
authorities in every town was required to consist of Germans ;
and it may be here added that Albert chiefly owed his unpopularity
to his partiality for German favourites.

In 1375 Valdemar IV. of Denmark died without male issue, and
in the following year he was succeeded by Olaf, son of his daughter
Margaret and Haakon, king of Norway. On the death of Haakon
in 1380, Olaf Haakonssen, his only son, acceded to the throne of
Norway also, thus uniting the crowns of Denmark and Norway.

Olaf's early death in 1387 dissolved this brief union , but
within a few weeks his mother Margaret was proclaimed regent
of Denmark, pending the election of a new king, while in Norway
she was nominated regent in 1388 without any such limitation.
At the same time, as it was deemed necessary to elect a successor
to the throne from among the different competitors, the Norwegians
appointed Erik of Pomerania , Margaret's nephew , heir to the
crown, but under the condition that he should not ascend the throne
during Margaret's lifetime. On the death of Bo Jonsson (1386),
who had held two-thirds of Sweden in fief or in pledge, Albert's
quarrels with his magnates broke out afresh, whereupon the mal-
contents proclaimed Margaret regent of Sweden also (1388),
agreeing to accept the king whom she should nominate. Margaret

lviii X. HISTORY.

thereupon invaded Sweden and defeated Albert at Falkoping
(1389), taking him and his son prisoners. The war, however,
still continued , and it was at this period that the Vitalien
Brotherhood (1392) came into existence, originally deriving their
name ('victuallers') from their duty of supplying Stockholm with
provisions during the war. The city was at that time occupied
by the German adherents of Albert, and these German 'victuallers'
were in truth a band of lawless marauders and pirates. Peace
was at length declared in 1395, and King Albert set at liberty on
condition of his leaving the country. During the same year Erik
was elected king of Denmark, and in 1396 of Sweden also, so that
the three crowns were now united, and the three kingdoms ruled by
the same regent. The following year Erik was solemnly crowned
at Kalmar by a diet of the three nations. Lastly, in 1398, Mar-
garet gained possession of Stockholm , the last stronghold of the
German partisans of Albert. The union of the three kingdoms
thus effected by Margaret, who is sometimes called the 'Northern
Semiramis', lasted till the beginning of the 16th cent., when it
was dissolved by the secession of Sweden, but Norway and Den-
mark remained united down to the year 1814.

The Union.

Though nominally united and bound to make common cause
against all enemies, the three kingdoms jealously maintained their
respective forms of government. Margaret ruled over the three
countries with wisdom and moderation, though harassed by many
difficulties, and on her death in 1412 King Erik assumed the reins
of government. Erik , whose queen was Philippa , daughter of
Henry IV. of England, was a weak, incompetent, and at the same
time a cruel prince. He wasted large sums of money in an at-
tempt to recover Slesvig from the Counts of Holstein, who held it
as a Danish fief, and who were supported by the Hanseatic League.
Meanwhile Bergen was twice plundered by the Germans (1428
and 1429), who now became masters of that city, and in Sweden
the people were most oppressively treated by Erik's German and
Danish officials. In 1435, after a disastrous quarrel of twenty-
three years, Eric was at length compelled to confirm the privileges
of the Hanseatic League and to leave the Counts of Holstein in
undisturbed possession of Slesvig. Exasperated by Erik's malad-
ministration, by the debasement of the coinage, and other griev-
ances , the Swedish peasantry, headed by Engelbrekt Engel-
brektsson, a wealthy proprietor of mines, rebelled in 1433 and
compelled Erik and his council to appoint Karl Knutsson regent
of the kingdom (1436), shortly after which Engelbrekt was assas-
sinated. In Norway also the oppressive sway of foreign officials
caused great discontent and gave rise to a rebellion in 1436. Erik
in despair retired to the island of Gotland, and in 1438 a number

X. HISTORY. lix

of Danish and Swedish magnates assembled at Kalmar, where
they drew up a new treaty of union, but without affirming that
the three kingdoms were thenceforward to be ruled by one
monarch. Lastly, in Denmark also a rebellion broke out, chiefly,
however, against the nobility and the clergy , and the Danes were
therefore compelled to seek for a new king.

In 1439 Denmark and Sweden formally withdrew their alle-
giance from Erik, and Christopher of Bavaria was elected in his
stead, being afterwards proclaimed king of Norway also (1442).
Erik spent ten years in Gotland where he supported himself by
piracy, and ten years more in Pomerania, where he died in 1459.

The separate election and coronation of Christopher in the
three countries shows that their union had ceased to exist in more
than the name. The new king succeeded, however, in asserting
his authority in every part of his dominions, although not without
many sacrifices. In his reign Copenhagen was raised to the rank
of the capital of Denmark. His plans for the consolidation of his
power were cut short by his death in 1448, and the union was
again practically dissolved. The Swedes now proclaimed Karl
Knutsson king, while the Danes elected Christian of Oldenburg,
a nephew of the Duke of Holstein and Slesvig. In 1449 Christian
also succeeded by stratagem in procuring his election in Norway,,
but Karl Knutsson was proclaimed king and crowned by the pea-
santry. The following year, however, Karl renounced his second
crown, and Christian was thereupon crowned at Throndhjem.
Karl having rendered himself obnoxious to the clergy and others
of his subjects in Sweden, Christian succeeded in supplanting him
here also, and he was crowned king of Sweden in 1457. In 1460
Christian next inherited the duchies of Holstein and Slesvig from
his uncle, but he was compelled to sign a charter declaring that
he would govern them by their own laws and not as part of Den-
mark. The government of this vast empire was a task to which
Christian proved unequal. Norway was plundered by Russians
and Karelians and grievously oppressed by the Hanseatic mer-
chants, who in 1455 slew Olaf Nilsson , governor of Bergen , and
the bishop of the town, and burned the monastery of Munkeliv
with impunity. In 1468 and 1469 he pledged the Orkney and
Shetland Islands to Scotland, and caused great discontent by the
introduction into Norway of Danish and German nobles, to whom
he granted extensive privileges. Sweden, too, groaned under heavy
taxation, and in 1464 recalled Karl Knutsson to the throne. He
was soon banished, but in 1467 recalled a third time, and in 1470
he died as king of Sweden. In 1471 Sten Sture, the Elder, a
nephew of Knutsson, and the guardian of his son, was appointed
administrator, and the same year Christian was defeated at Stock-
holm, after which he made no farther attempt to regain his autho-
rity in Sweden. He died in 1481 and was succeeded in Denmark

Ix X. HISTORY.

by his son Hans, who was not recognised in Norway till 1483.
Sten Sture sought to delay his election in Sweden, but as he had
rendered himself unpopular by an unsuccessful campaign against
the Russians in Finland, Hans took the opportunity of invading
Sweden with a large army and succeeded in establishing his au-
thority (1497). The king having been signally defeated at Hem-
mingstadt in 1500 in the course of his attempt to subdue the
Ditmarschers, Sture was recalled, but Hans still retained Norway.
Sture died in 1503 and was succeeded by Svante Nielsson Sture
(d. 1512), whose successor was his son Sten Sture the Younger
(d. 1520).

King Hans died in 1513, and was succeeded in Denmark and
Norway by his son Christian II., whom the Swedes declined to
recognise. He was a man of considerable ability and learning,
but self-willed, passionate, and cruel. In Norway and Denmark
he effected several social reforms, protected the commercial, min-
ing, and fishing interests, and sought to restrict the privileges of
the Hanseatic merchants. Notwithstanding his strength of will,
Christian was ruled by Sigbritt, a Dutchwoman, the mother of his
mistress Dilweke (d. 1517), even after the death of the latter, and
the hatred of the aristocracy for this woman, who treated them
with studied contempt, proved disastrous to Christian. In Swe-
den the family of Trolle had long been hostile to the Sture family,
and when Gustaf Trolle was created archbishop of Upsala in 1515
he invited the Danes to aid him in deposing the administrator.
Christian sent troops to the aid of the prelate, who was besieged
in his castle of Stiiket (p. 356), but the castle was taken and Trolle
deprived of his dignities and confined in a monastery. In 1518
Crhistian himself undertook a campaign against Sweden without
success, and perfidiously imprisoned Gustaf Eriksson Vasa and
other Swedish hostages who had been sent to him. A third cam-
paign in 1519 was more successful, and Sten Sture was defeated
and mortally wounded at Bogesund in West Gotland. The same
year Christian gained possession of Stockholm , but his atrocious
cruelty and injustice proved his ruin. After his coronation by
Trolle he permitted that prelate and two others to prosecute their
enemies before an arbitrarily formed ecclesiastical tribunal. They
were found guilty of heresy, and on 8th Nov., 1520, executed
along with several other persons. The 82 victims included two
bishops, 13 royal counsellors and knights, and Erik Johansson,
the father of Vasa. On the following day many similar executions
of so-called rebels and heretics took place in other parts of Sweden
though on a smaller scale than the 'Blood-bath of Stockholm'.

The exasperation of the Swedes was aggravated by the impo-
sition of a new tax and an attempt to disarm the peasantry and
the discontented populace soon found an able leader. This was
the famous Gustaf Vasa (probably so surnamed from vase 'a beam'

X. HISTORY. lxl

which the fascine in his armorial bearings resembled), who had
been unjustly imprisoned by Christian, but escaped to Liibeck in
1519. In May, 1520, he returned to Sweden, and on hearing of
the death of his father at the Stockholm Blood-bath he betook
himself to Dalecarlia, where on former occasions Engelbrekt and
the Stures had been supported by the peasantry. The rising began
in 1521 and soon extended over the whole of Sweden. In August
of that year Qustavus was appointed administrator at Vadstena,
and in June 1523 he was proclaimed king at Strengnas.

Sweden thus finally withdrew from the union, and Christian
soon afterwards lost his two other kingdoms. His favour to the
Reformation aroused the enmity of the church , and at the same
time he attacked the privileges of the nobility. From the tenor
of several provincial and municipal laws framed by the king in
1521-22 it is obvious that he proposed to counteract the influence
of the clergy and aristocracy by improving the condition of the
lower classes. Among several excellent provisions were the abol-
ition of compulsory celibacy in the church and a prohibition
against the sale of serfs. A war with the Lubeckers , who even
threatened Copenhagen (1522), next added to Christian's difficul-
ties, soon after which the Danes elected his uncle Frederick, Duke
of Slesvig-Holstein, as his successor and renounced their allegiance
to Christian. At length, after fruitless negociations , Christian
quitted Copenhagen in 1523 and sought an asylum in Holland.
Nine years later, after an unsuccessful attempt to regain his throne,
he was thrown into prison, where he languished for 27 years.

The condition of the Constitution during the union was far
from satisfactory. The union existed in little more than the name.
Each nation continued to be governed by its own laws, neither
the troops nor the revenue of one could be employed for the pur-
poses of either of the others, and no one could be summoned be-
fore any tribunal out of his own country. The supreme authority,
next to that of the king, was vested in his council, which con-
sisted of the prelates , a number of the superior clergy, and a
fluctuating number of nobles nominated by the king, but not
removable at his pleasure. In matters of importance the king
could only act with the consent of his counsellors, and they were
even entitled to use violence in opposing unauthorised measures.
Nominally the church continued to enjoy all its early privileges,
and the concessions made at Temsberg in 1277 were expressly
confirmed by Christian I. in 1458, but invasions of its rights were
not infrequent, and with its increasing solicitude for temporal
power its hold over the people decreased. The church was most
powerful in Norway and least so in Sweden, while with the in-
fluence of the nobility the reverse was the case. In Sweden the
estates of the nobility enjoyed immunity from taxation, but Chris-
tian I. and his successors were obliged to relax this privilege.

Ixii X. HISTORY.

The nobles also enjoyed jurisdiction over their peasantry, levying
fines and imposing punishments at discretion (1483). The Nor-
wegian nobles were less favoured ; they had no power of levying
fines from their tenantry, and their manor houses (Scedegaarde)
alone were exempt from taxation. The position of the townspeople
and the peasantry in Sweden gradually improved , and in 1471
Sten Sture ordained that the municipal authorities should thence-
forward consist of natives of the country instead of Germans. In
Norway, notwithstanding the opposition of several of the kings,
the Hanse merchants still held oppressive sway in the chief towns ;
but the peasantry were never, as in Denmark, subjected to serf-
dom and compulsory services. They were generally owners of the
soil they cultivated, while those who were merely tenants enjoyed
entire liberty and were not ascripti glebae as in many other coun-
tries. In Sweden the compulsory services exigible from the pea-
santry by the lord of the soil were limited in the 15th cent, to
8-12 days, and those exigible by the king to 8 days. While this
class enjoyed less independence than in Norway, it attained polit-
ical importance and even admission to the supreme council at an
earlier period, owing to the influence of Engelbrekt, the Stures,
and other popular chiefs.

During the union Literature made considerable progress in
Sweden, while in Norway it languished and became well-nigh ex-
tinct. In both countries the education of the clergy continued to
be carried on in the monasteries and cathedral schools, but towards
the close of this period universities were founded at Upsala (1477)
and Copenhagen (1479), and gave rise to the publication of various
learned treatises in Latin. Among the religious works of this per-
iod may be mentioned the revelations of St. Birgitta (d. 1373)
and the 'Oronica Regni Grothorum' of Ericus Olai (d. 1486), both
showing a tendency towards the principles of the Reformation.
"Whilst about the beginning of the 14th cent, the native literature
of Norway became extinct, that of Sweden began to increase,
consisting chiefly of religious writings, rhyming chronicles, ballads,
and compilations of laws. In Sweden, moreover, the national lan-
guage, though not without difficulty , held its own against the
Danish, while in Norway the 'Old Norsk' was gradually displaced
by the tongue of the dominant race, and continued to be spoken
in several impure and uncultured dialects by the peasantry alone.

Sweden after the Dissolution of the Kalmar Union.

The necessity of making common cause against Christian II.,
the deposed monarch of the three kingdoms, led to an alliance be-
tween Gustavus Vasa and Frederick I. of Denmark. Christian at-
tempted an invasion of Norway in 1531-32, but was taken pri-
soner, and after Frederick's death (1533) the Liibeckers made an
ineffectual attempt to restore the deposed king (1534-36). At

X. HISTORY. lxiii

home Gustavus also succeeded in consolidating his power. The
nobility had been much weakened by the cruel proceedings of
Christian, while the Reformation deprived the church both of its
power and. its temporal possessions , most of which fell to the
crown. By the diet of Vesteras (1527) and the synod of Orebro
(1529) great changes in the tenure of church property and in eccle-
siastical dogmas and ritual were introduced, and in 1531 Lau-
rentius Petri became the first Protestant archbishop of TJpsala.
Lastly, at another diet held at Vesteras (1544), the Roman Catho-
lic Church was declared abolished. At the same diet the succes-
sion to the throne was declared hereditary. Gustavus effected
many other wise reforms, but had to contend against several in-
surrections of the peasantry , caused partly by his ecclesiastical
innovations, and partly by the heaviness of the taxation imposed
for the support of his army and fleet. Shortly before his death (in
1560), he unwisely bestowed dukedoms on his younger sons, a
step which laid the foundation for future troubles.

His eldest son Erik XIV. (the number being in accordance
with the computation of Johannes Magnus, but without the slight-
est historical foundation) soon quarrelled with his younger brother
John, Duke of Finland, whom he kept imprisoned for four years.
He was ruled by an unworthy favourite, named Goran Persson,
and committed many acts of violence and cruelty. He persuaded
his brother Duke Magnus to sign John's death-warrant, whereupon
Magnus became insane. After the failure of several matrimonial
schemes, of one of which Queen Elizabeth of England was the
object, and after several outbursts of insanity, Eric married his
mistress Katharine Mansdatter (1567). The following year he was
deposed by his brother, who ascended the throne as John III.,
and after a cruel captivity of nine years was poisoned by his order
in 1577 (see p. 363). John ingratiated himself with the nobility
by rich grants of hereditary fiefs, and he concluded the peace at
Stettin which terminated a seven years' war in the north (1563-70)
and definitively severed Sweden from Denmark and Norway. Less
successful was his war against Russia for the purpose of securing
to Sweden the province of Esthland, but the province was after-
wards secured to his successor by the Peace of Tensina (1595).
John was married to a Polish princess and betrayed a leaning to-
wards the Romish church which much displeased his subjects.
After his death (1592) the religious difficulty became more serious,
as his son and successor Sigismund had been brought up as a Ro-
man Catholic in Poland, where he had been proclaimed king in
1587. Duke Charles of Sodermanland, the youngest son of Gus-
tavus Vasa , thereupon assumed the regency on behalf of the ab-
sent Sigismund, caused the Augsburg Confession to be pro-
claimed anew by a synod at Upsala (1593), and abolished Romish
practices introduced by John. After confirming these proceedings,

lxiv X. HISTORY.

Sigismund was crowned in 1594 ; but on his failure to keep Ms
promises, his uncle was recalled to the regency (1595), and when
Sigismund invaded Sweden in 1598 he was defeated by Charles
and compelled to enter into a compromise at Linkoping. Again
breaking faith , he was formally deposed (1599), while Charles
was appointed regent for life. After having prosecuted Sigis-
mund's adherents with great harshness, and succeeded in prevent-
ing the recognition of Ladislaus, Sigismund's son, Charles IX.,
assumed the title of king in 1604. His administration was bene-
ficial to the country, and he was a zealous promoter of commerce,
mining, and agriculture, but his wars with Russia and Denmark,
which were unfinished at his death (1611), caused much misery.
His son and successor was Qustavus II. , better known as
Gustavus Adolphus, the most able and famous of the Swedish
kings. Though seventeen years of age only , he was at once de-
clared major by the Estates. In 1613 he terminated the 'Kalmar
War' with Denmark by the Peace of Knarod , and in 1617 that
with Russia by the Peace of Stolbova , which secured Kexholm,
Karelen, and Ingermanland to Sweden. By the Treaty of Altmark
in 1629 he obtained from Poland the cession of Livonia and four
Prussian seaports for six years. At the same time he bestowed
much attention on his home affairs. With the aid of his chancellor
and friend Axel Oxenstjerna he passed codes of judicial procedure
and founded a supreme court atStockholm(1614-i5), and afterwards
erected appeal courts at Abo, Dorpat, and Jonkoping. In 1617 he
reorganised the national assembly, dividing it into the four estates
of Nobles, Clergy, Burghers, and Peasants, and giving it the sole
power of passing laws and levying taxes. He founded several new
towns, favoured the mining and commercial industries, extended
the university of Upsala, and established another at Dorpat. At
the same time he strengthened Ms army and navy, which he soon
had occasion to use. In 1630 he went to Germany to support the
Protestant cause in the Thirty Years' War, and after several bril-
liant victories and a glorious career, which raised Sweden to the
proudest position she has ever occupied in history, he fell on 6th
Nov., 1632, at the Battle of Liitzen. The war was continued under
his daughter and successor Christina, under the able regency of
Oxenstjerna. In 1635, by another treaty with Poland, Livonia
was secured to Sweden for 26 years more. War broke out with Den-
mark in 1643, but was terminated by the Peace of Bromsebro
in 1645. At length, in 1648, the Thirty Years' War was ended by
the Peace of Westphalia. These treaties secured to Sweden Jemt-
land and Herjedalen, the island of Gotland, the principalities of
Bremen and Verden , part of Pomerania with Stettin and the is-
lands of Riigen , Usedom, and Wollin , and the town of Wismar
besides a considerable war indemnity and other advantages. Dur-
ing the regency it was arranged that the royal council or cabinet

X. HISTORY. lxv

should consist of representatives of the supreme court of appeal,
the council of war, the admiralty , the ministry of the interior,
and the exchequer, presided over by the chief ministers of each
department. The country was divided into 23 Lane and 14 Lag-
sagor, governed by Landshofdinge and Lagman respectively, which
officials were to be appointed from the nobility. For these and many
other reforms and useful institutions the country was indebted
to the energy and enlightenment of Oxenstjerna. On the other
hand , in order to All the empty coffers of the state , it was found
necessary to sell many of the crown domains , and to levy new
taxes , and the evil was aggravated by the lavish extravagance
of Christina and her favourites. Refusing to marry, and being
unable to redress the grievances of her justly disaffected sub-
jects, the queen in 1649 procured the election of Charles Oustavus
or Charles X., son of the Count Palatine John Casimir of Zwei-
briicken and a sister of Gustavus Adolphus, as her successor. By
her desire he was crowned in 1654, whereupon she abdicated,
quitted Sweden, and embraced the Romish faith. She terminated
her eccentric career at Rome in 1689. Her successor endeavoured
to practise economy, and in 1655 obtained the sanction of the
Estates to revoke her alienations of crown property. "War, however,
interfered with his plans. John Casimir, king of Poland , son of
Sigismund , now claimed the throne of Sweden , and compelled
Charles to declare war against him (1655). After a time Russia,
Austria, and Denmark espoused the cause of Poland, but Charles
succeeded in gaining possession of Jutland and the Danish islands,
and the Peace of Roeskilde (1658) secured to him Skane, Halland,
and Blekinge , but obliged him to cede the districts of Bohus
and Throndhjem to Norway. On a renewal of the war with Den-
mark , the Danes were aided by the Dutch, the Brandenburgers,
the Poles, and the Austrians , who compelled Charles to raise the
siege of Copenhagen , and on his sudden death in 1662 the Peace
of Copenhagen was concluded , whereby the island of Bornholm
was lost to Sweden.

Charles X. was succeeded by his son Charles XI. , a boy of
four years , whose guardians endeavoured to make peace with
foreign enemies. By the Peace of Oliva with Poland , Branden-
burg , and Austria in 1660 the king of Poland finally ceded Li-
vonia to Sweden and renounced his claim to the throne of Sweden,
and by the Peace of Kardis with Russia in 1661 the Swedish con-
quests in Esthonia and Livonia were restored to Sweden ; but
little was done to remedy the internal disorders of the country.
One of the few events worthy of record at this period was the
foundation of the university of Lund in 1668. Meanwhile the
excesses and arrogance of the nobility , the squandering of the
crown revenues , and the imposition of heavy taxes threatened to
ruin the country , and the regency even accepted subsidies from

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. c

lxvi X. HISTORY.

foreign countries and hired out troops to serve abroad. At the
age of seventeen Charles assumed the reins of government (1672).
In 1674 he was called upon as the ally of France to take part in
the war against Holland , Spain , and Germany, but the Swedish
army was signally defeated at Fehrbellin by the Elector of Bran-
denburg. Hereupon the Danes declared war against Sweden,
causing new disasters, but by the intervention of the French
peace was again declared at Lund in 1679. The distress occasioned
by these defeats and popular indignation against the nobility,
who were now in possession of five-sevenths of the land in Swe-
den, and who did their utmost to reduce the peasantry to the con-
dition of mere serfs, eventually served greatly to strengthen the
king's position. At the diet of Stockholm in 1680, after stormy
debates, it was determined to call the regency to account for their
gross mismanagement of affairs , and the king was empowered to
revoke the alienations made during his minority. The king was
told that he was not bound to consult his cabinet, but to obey the
laws, and that he was responsible to God alone. Another diet
(1682) entrusted the king with the sole legislative power, merely
expressing a hope that he would graciously consult the Estates.
Charles was thus declared an absolute monarch , the sole right
reserved to the diet being that of levying taxes. The king there-
upon exacted large payments from his former guardians and exer-
cised his right of revocation so rigidly that he obtained possession
of about one-third of the landed estates in Sweden. The money
thus acquired he employed in paying the debts of the crown , in
re-organising his army and fleet , and for other useful purposes,
while he proceeded to amend the law and to remedy ecclesiastical
abuses. On his death in 1697 he left his kingdom in a strong and
prosperous condition, and highly respected among nations.

Under Charles XII., the son and successor of Charles XI., this
absolutism was fraught with disastrous consequences. Able, care-
fully educated, energetic, and conscientious , but self-willed and
eccentric , Charles was called to the throne at the age of fifteen
and at once declared major. In 1699 Denmark, Russia, and Poland
concluded an alliance against Sweden, which led to the great
northern war. Aided by England, Holland, and the Duke of
Gottorp and Hanover , Charles speedily compelled the Danes to
conclude the Peace of Travendal (1700), defeated the Russians
at Narva, took Curland from the Poles (1701) , and forced Elector
Augustus of Saxony to make peace at Altranst'adt , whereby the
elector was obliged to renounce the Polish crown. Meanwhile
Peter the Great of Russia had gained possession of Kexholm,
Ingermanland , and Esthonia. Instead of attempting to regain
these provinces, Charles , tempted by a promise of help from Ma-
zeppa , a Cossack chief , determined to attack the enemy in an-
other quarter and marched into the Ukraine , but was signally

X. HISTORY. lxvii

defeated by the Russians at Pultava (1709), and lost nearly the
whole of his army. He escaped into Turkey, where he was hospi-
tably received by the Sultan Achmed III. and supplied with
money. Here he resided at Bender , and induced the Sultan to
make war against Russia ; but when the grand vizier had defeated
the Czar he was bribed by Katherine, the courageous wife of Peter,
to allow him to escape. This exasperated Charles and led to a
quarrel with the Sultan , who placed him in confinement. Mean-
while Denmark and Saxony again declared war against Sweden.
Skane was successfully defended against the Danes , but Elector
Augustus reconquered Poland , and the Czar took possession of
Finland. The resources of Sweden were now exhausted, and the
higher nobility began to plot against the king. At length Charles
effected his escape and returned to Sweden (1715), to find that
England, Hanover, and Prussia had also declared war against him
owing to differences regarding Stettin and the principalities of
Bremen and Verden. Having succeeded with the utmost difficulty
in raising money , Charles now invaded Norway with an army of
raw recruits and laid siege to Fredrikshald , where he fell at the
early age of thirty-six (1718), just at the time when his favourite
minister Gortz was about to conclude a favourable peace with
Russia. Brave , chivalrous , and at the same time simple in his
manners and irreproachable in conduct , the memory of Charles
is still fondly cherished by the Swedes. The short reign of abso-
lutism (Envaldstiden) was now at an end , and we reach a period
of greater independence (Frihetstiden ; 1719-92).

Charles XII. was succeeded by his sister Ulrika Eleonora, who
with the consent of the Estates resigned in favour of her husband
Frederick I. , crown-prince of Hessen-Cassel. At the same time
(1720) a new constitution was framed by the Estates. The supreme
power was vested in the Estates , a secret committee consisting
of members of the three upper chambers, and a council or cabinet
of nine members of the committee , three from each estate, to be
nominated by the king himself. The king's authority was limited
to two votes at the diet and a casting vote in case of an equally
divided assembly, and the cabinet was declared responsible to
the diet. In 1719 peace was concluded with England , upon the
abandonment of Bremen and Verden, and in 1720 with Prussia,
to which Stettin and part of Pomerania were ceded ; then with
Poland and Denmark ; and in 1721 with Russia , to which Li-
vonia, Esthonia, Ingermanland, and the districts of Kexholm and
Viborg in Finland had to be made over. The kingdom now enjoyed
an interval of repose , a new code of laws was drawn up (1734),
and efforts were made to revive commerce. The peace party was
derisively called 'Nightcaps' (nattmossor), or simply 'Caps', while
a warlike party which now arose was known as 'Hats' fhattar). In
accordance with the counsels of the latter , war was proclaimed

lxviii X. HISTORY.

with Russia, which soon led to the loss of Finland (1741)- On the
death of the queen without issue, Adolphus Frederick of Holstein-
Gottorp , a relation of the crown-prince of Russia, was elected as
Frederick's successor, on condition (Peace of Abo; 1743) that the
greater part of Finland should he restored. The remainder of
Frederick's reign was tranquil, and he died in 1751.

The prerogatives of his successor , Adolphus Frederick, were
farther limited by the Estates. An attempt on the part of the
king to emancipate himself led to a confirmation of the existing
constitution , and to a resolution that a stamp bearing the king's
name should be impressed without his consent on documents ap-
proved by the Estates (1756). The court vainly attempted to
rebel, and the king was bluntly reminded that the Estates had
power to depose him. In 1757 the 'Hats' recklessly plunged into
the Seven Years' War, and after an ignoble campaign peace was
concluded at Hamburg in 1762. The 'Caps' were next in the
ascendant , but the party disputes of this period were not con-
ducive to national progress.

In 1771 Adolphus was succeeded by his son Gustavus III.,
who by means of a preconcerted military revolution or coup-cTetat
(1772) succeeded in regaining several of the most valuable prero-
gatives of the crown, including the sole executive power, whereby
the government was converted from a mere republic into a limited
monarchy. The king used his victory with moderation, abolished
torture , introduced liberty of the press , promoted commerce,
science , and art, and strengthened the army. On the other hand
he was extravagant and injudicious , and in 1788 committed the
error of declaring war against Russia without the consent of the
Estates. His officers refused to obey him, and his difficulties
were aggravated by a declaration of war and invasion of Sweden
by the Danes. Gustavus now succeeded, with the aid of the
middle and lower classes, in effecting a farther change in the
constitution (1798), which gave him the sole prerogative of mak-
ing war and concluding peace, while the right of acquiring pri-
vileged landed estates (frdlsegods) was bestowed on the peasantry.
An armistice was concluded with Denmark, and the not unsuc-
cessful hostilities with Russia led to the Peace of Varala, (1790),
which precluded Russia from future interference with Swedish
affairs. Shortly afterwards, on the outbreak of the French Revo-
lution, the king proposed to intervene , together with Russia and
Austria, in favour of Louis XVI. and proceeded to levy new taxes,
whereupon the disaffected nobles entered into a new conspiracy
against him, and in 1792 this chivalrous and enlightened, though
sometimes ill-advised monarch, fell by the dagger of Captain
Anckarstrom.

His son Oustavus Adolphus succeeded him as Gustavus IV.
under the regency of his uncle Duke Charles of Sodermanland

X. HISTORY. lxix

■who avoided all participation in the wars of the Revolution. In
1800 Gustavus , in accordance with a scheme of his father, and
in conjunction with Russia and Denmark , took up a position of
armed neutrality, but Denmark having been coerced by England
to abandon this position, and Russia having dissolved the alliance,
Sweden was also obliged to yield to the demands of England. The
king's futile dreams of the restoration of absolutism and his ill-
judged and disastrous participation in the Napoleonic wars led to
the loss of Wismar, Pomerania, and Finland, and to his defeat in
Norway (1803-8). The country being now on the brink of ruin,
the Estates caused Gustavus to be arrested, and formally deposed
him and his heirs (1809J. He died in poverty at St. Gallen in
1837. His uncle was now elected king as Charles XIII., and a
new constitution framed, mainly on the basis of that of 1772.
Peace was now concluded at Frederikshamn with Russia (1809),
to which the whole of Finland and the Aland Islands were ceded,
with Denmark, and with France (1810), whereby Sweden recovered
part of Pomerania. The king being old and childless, Prince
Christian Augustus of Augustenburg, stadtholder of Norway, was
elected crown-prince, but on his sudden death in 1810 the Estates
elected Marshal Bernadotte, one of Napoleon's generals, who was
adopted by Charles, assumed the name of Charles John, and em-
braced the Protestant faith. The crown-prince's influence was
directed to military organisation. The lukewarmness of Sweden
in maintaining the continental blockade led to a rupture with
France, and during the war with Napoleon the Swedes concluded
a treaty with the Russians at Abo on the footing that the crown
of Norway should be secured to Sweden (1812). England and
Prussia having given the same assurance, Charles John marched
with a Swedish contingent into Germany and assumed the com-
mand of the combined northern army which took part in the de-
cisive struggle against Napoleon (1813). The crown prince's par-
ticipation in the war was a somewhat reluctant one , but by the
Peace of Kiel (1814) he succeeded in compelling Denmark to cede
Norway to Sweden, while Denmark obtained possession of Swedish
Pomerania and retained Iceland, Greenland, and the Faroes.

The frequent changes which took place during this period in
the Constitution of Sweden have already been mentioned.

The Intellectual Progress of the country was greatly furthered
by the Reformation. Peder Mansson (d. 1534), bishop of VesterSs,
wrote works on the army, the navy, medicine, and other subjects
in the mediaeval style, while Laurentius Petri (d. 1573), Lauren-
tius Andrea (d. 1552), and others translated the Bible into Swedish
and wrote Protestant theological works in their native tongue.
L. Petri and his brother Olaus (d. 1552) also wrote Swedish chron-
icles; Archbishop Johannes Magni was the author of a history of
the kings in Latin, with a large admixture of the fabulous ele-

lxx X. HISTORY.

ment ; and his brother Olaus wrote the often quoted 'Historia de
Gentibus Septentrionalibus'. An equally indiscriminate writer of
history, and an author of dramatic and other works, was Johan
Messenius (d. 1637). Even Gustavus Vasa had been anxious to
preserve the purity of his native language, but it was not till the
17th cent, that scholars interested themselves in it. Queen Chris-
tina, a talented and learned princess, was a great patroness of
literature. She invited foreign savants to her court (Descartes,
Orotius, and others), as well as native authors, including Johan
Bureus (d. 1652) and the versatile and distinguished Goran Lilje
(ennobled as George Stjernhjelrn; A. 1672). At this period, too
(1658), Jon Rugman first called attention to the treasures of
Icelandic literature, and antiquarian and historical research now
came into vogue. Stjernhbbk, the jurist (d. 1675), and Widekindi
(d.1678), Verelius (d. 1682), Verving(A. 1697), Rudbeck(&. 1702),
and Peringskibld (d. 1720), the historians, were meritorious writers
of this school. Hitherto German influence had preponderated in
Sweden, but about the middle of the 18th cent, a preference
began to be shown for the French style. To this school belong
Olof von Dalin(A. 1763), the poet and historian, and Count Tessin
(d. 1770), a meritorious art-collector, and among the scholars of
the same period were Lagerbring , the historian (d. 1787) , Johan
Ihre, the philologist (d. 1780), and above all Karl von Linne (d.
1778), the famous botanist. The 'Vitterhets Akademi' or 'acad-
emy of belles lettres' founded in 1753 was extended by Gusta-
vus III. so as to embrace history and antiquities, and he also
founded the Swedish Academy. To the academic school belonged
Kellgren (d. 1795) and Leopold (d. 1829), but a far more popu-
lar poet, and one who repudiated all the traditions of French taste,
was Bellman (d. 1795), the singer of sweet and simple ballads,
whose 'Fredmans Epistlar' was deemed worthy of a prize even by
the Academy, and whose memory is still fondly cherished.

The Continued Union of Norway with Denmark.

When Sweden withdrew from the Kalmar Union (1523) Nor-
way at first remained faithful to Christian II., but Vincentius
Lnnge procured the election of Frederick J. (1524). This king's
Protestant tendencies induced the Norwegians to re-elect Chris-
tian II. in 1531 , when the deposed king appeared in Norway
with an army, but he was treacherously arrested the following
year and ended his life in captivity (see p. lxi). Frederick thus
regained Norway and continued to prosecute the objects of the
Reformation till his death (1533). The nobility and the Pro-
testant party in Denmark elected his eldest son Christian III.
as his successor, and the southern half of Norway under Lunge
acquiesced. A rebellion of the northern provinces, which cost
Lunge his life, was quelled, and the archbishop who had headed

X. HISTORY. lxxi

it was obliged to quit the country^ In 1536 Christian III. had
promised the Danes to convert Norway into a Danish province,
and he now abolished the council of state and otherwise partially
kept his word. The doctrines of the Reformation permeated the
country very slowly, but the dissolution of the monasteries and
confiscation of church property were prosecuted with great zeal.
The Norwegian towns now began to prosper and the trade of the
country to improve , while the tyranny of the Hanse merchants at
Bergen was checked by Christopher Valkendorff (1536). In 1559
Christian was succeeded by his son Frederick II., in whose reign
occurred the calamitous seven years' war with Sweden (1563-70),
which sowed the seeds of national hatred between the countries,
and caused the destruction of Oslo , Sarpsborg, and Hamar, the
devastation of several agricultural districts, and the military oc-
cupation of others. At the same time the country was terribly
oppressed by Frederick's officials , and he himself visited it once
only. The sole benefit conferred by him on Norway was the foun-
dation of Fredrikstad near the ruined town of Sarpsborg.

His son Christian IV. (1588-1648), on the other hand, visited
Norway very frequently and was indefatigable in his reforms. He
refused to grant fiefs in future to nobles who were not natives of
Norway (1596), and he promulgated a Norwegian code (1604),
which was a revised edition of the laws of 1274 translated into
Danish. He also published an ecclesiastical code (1607), and took
energetic measures to exclude Jesuits from the country. At the
same time the army was improved, trade was favoured, the silver-
mines at Kongsberg (1624) and the copper-mines of Rotos (1645)
were established, the towns of Christiania (1624) and Christian-
sand(1641) founded anew, and the Hanse factory at Bergen strictly
controlled. All these benefits were outweighed by the disasters of
the Kalrnar War with Sweden (1611-13), during which the peas-
antry gained their famous victory over the Scottish auxiliaries
under Col. Ramsay at Kringelen (p. 123), and particularly those
of the Thirty Years' War in which Christian participated (1625-
1629). A second war with Sweden (1643-45) terminated with the
severance of Jemtland and Herjedalen from Norway.

New disasters befell Norway in the reign of his son Frede-
rick II. (1648-70). The result of the participation of Denmark
and Norway in the Swedish -Polish war was that Norway finally
lost Bahus-Lan, Idre, and Sarna. During this war Halden earned
for itself the new name of Fredrikshald by the bravery of its de-
fenders. These misfortunes, however, led to a rupture with the
existing system of government. On ascending the throne Fred-
erick had signed a pledge which placed him in the power of the
nobility, but during the wars the incompetency of the council of
state, and the energy of the king and citizens in defending Copen-
hagen, had greatly raised him in the public estimation. At a diet

lxxii X. HISTORY.

held at Copenhagen iu 1660 the indignation of the clergy and
burghers against the nobility burst forth , and they demanded the
abolition of its oppressive privileges. It was next dicovered that
the pledge given by the king was subversive of all liberty and
progress , the king and the lower Estates proceeded to declare the
succession to the throne hereditary, and Frederick was empowered
to revise the constitution. The result was that he declared the
king alone to be invested with sovereign and absolute power, and
to this document he succeeded privately in procuring the signa-
tures of most of the members of the diet. This declaration became
law in 1661, but was not actually promulgated till 1709. These
great changes were on the whole beneficial to Norway. The
country was at least now placed on an equality with Denmark, and
the strict bureaucratic administration was preferable to the old
evils of local tyranny and individual caprice. The supreme
authority now consisted of the heads of the five government de-
partments, presided over by the king, and the feudal lords with
their local jurisdictions were replaced by crown officials.

Frederick's son Christian V. (1670-99) was not unsuccessful
in the Skane war against Sweden (1675-79), but his chief merit
as regards Norway was the promulgation of a code (1687), based
on the Danish code of 1683, and of a church ritual for both coun-
tries. The erection of the new counties or earldoms of Laurvig and
Tensberg, afterwards called Jarlsberg, and of the barony of Rosen-
dal were unproductive of benefit to Norway. The unjust treat-
ment of his minister Qriffenfeld, who for a trivial offence suffered
a cruel imprisonment for 22 years , forms a blot on this king's
memory.

Christian V. was succeeded by his son Frederick IV. (1699-
1730), in whose reign was waged the great northern war in which
the Norwegian naval hero Peter Vessel (ennobled under the name
of Tordenskjold~) took a prominent part. The sole gain to Den-
mark by the Peace of Fredriksborg (1720) was the renunciation
by Sweden of its immunity from Sound dues. The King husbanded
his finances, but often procured money by discreditable means.
He hired out mercenary troops , sold most of the crown-property
in Norway , and granted a monopoly of the trade of Finmarken.
These abuses, maladministration, and an attempt to alter the land
laws so embittered the Norwegians that a union with Russia was
actually proposed. In this reign a mission to Lapland was organised
(1714), Th. v. Vesten being one of its chief promoters , and Bans
Kgede went as a missionary to Greenland (1721).

Under Frederick's son Christian VI. (1730-46) Norway was
injuriously infected with German Puritanism, which enjoined the
utmost rigidity of church observances and abstention from all
worldly amusements. Among the expedients used for reviving
trade in Denmark was an oppressive enactment that S. Norway

X. HISTORY. lxxiii

should draw its sole corn supplies from that country. The fleet,
however, was strengthened , an efficient militia organised , and
education promoted. A long peace favoured the growth of com-
merce and navigation, and the 'Black Company' formed in 1739
furthered manufacturing industry.

In the reign of Frederick V. (1746-66) the grievous sway of
Puritanism came to an end , and art and science were zealously
cultivated. A mining school was founded at Kongsherg , and a
mathematical school at Christiania , and at Throndhjem a useful
scientific society was established by Ounnerus , Schening , and
Suhm, a learned Dane (1760-67J. The frontier between Norway
and Sweden was measured and defined (1759), facilities were
afforded to commerce , and skilled miners introduced from Ger-
many. Complications with Russia connected with the affairs of
Slesvig caused severe financial losses to Denmark and Norway,
and the increased taxation provoked a revolt at Bergen , which,
however, was soon quelled (1763). Notwithstanding these draw-
backs, Norway prospered under the absolute monarchy, while Den-
mark languished. The king in Denmark , being separated from
the lower classes by a wealthy and influential aristocracy, was
unable effectually to redress their grievances, and they still groan-
ed under the evils of serfdom and compulsory service. With the
exception of Copenhagen, the towns were almost equally oppressed,
and in 1769 the whole population of Denmark did not exceed
800,000 souls. In Norway, on the other hand, the peasantry en-
joyed freedom, the towns had thrown off the oppressive Hanseatic
yoke, and feudal jurisdictions were abolished , while complaints
against officials were addressed to the king in person. A class of
native officials had also sprung up, affording an additional element
of security. While the population had numbered 450,000 only in
1664, it rose to 723,000 in 1769. Within the same period the
number of Norwegian ships had increased from 50 to 1150.
The peasantry had benefited greatly by the sale of the crown
estates, and the trade of Norway now far surpassed that of Den-
mark. At the same time frequent intercourse with England and
other foreign countries served to expand the Norwegian mind
and to prepare the way for a period of still greater enlightenment
and prosperity.

During the long reign of the imbecile Christian VII. (1760-
1808) his authority was wielded by his ministers. Struensee, his
German physician, was the first of these. His measures were those
of an enlightened absolutism. He simplified judicial procedure,
abolished torture, excluded the lackeys of noblemen from public
offices, deprived the aristocracy of their privileges, bestowed lib-
erty on the press, and husbanded the finances. The peremptory
manner in which these and other reforms were introduced gave
great offence, particularly as Struensee took no pains to corneal

lxxiv X. HISTORY.

his contempt for the Danes. Christian's stepmother accordingly
organised a conspiracy against him, and he was executed in 1772.
His successor was Ove Guldberg, a Dane, who passed a law that
Danes, Norwegians, and Holsteiners alone should be eligible for
the government service, and rescinded Struensee's reforms (1776).
In 1780 an attitude of armed neutrality introduced by the able
Count Bemstorff gave a great impulse to the shipping trade, but
the finances of the country were ruined. In 1784 the Crown-
prince Frederick assumed the conduct of affairs with Bemstorff as
his minister, whereupon a more liberal, and for Norway in partic-
ular a more favourable era began. The corn-trade of S. Norway
was relieved from its fetters, the trade of Finmarken was set free,
and the towns of Troms», Hammerfest , and Varde were founded.
On a renewal of the armed neutrality (1800-1), England refused
to recognise it, attacked Copenhagen, and compelled the Danes to
abandon it. Six years later Napoleon's scheme of using Denmark's
fleet against England led to a second attack on Copenhagen and
its bombardment by the English fleet, which resulted in the sur-
render of the whole Dan ish and Norwegian fleet to England (1807).
Denmark, allied with France, then declared war both against
England and Sweden (1808) , and almost at the same period
Christian died.

On the accession of Frederick VI. (1808-36) the affairs of the
kingdom were in a desperate condition. The English did not
attack the country, but contented themselves with capturing as
many Danish and Norwegian vessels as possible and ruining the
trade of the country by blockading all its seaports. Owing to an
over-issue of paper money the government was soon unable to meet
its liabilities and declared itself bankrupt (1813). Meanwhile
Norway was governed by a separate commission, presided over by
Prince Christ inn Augustus of Augustenburg (1807), and was so
well defended that it lost nothing by the peace of Jonkoping
(1809). The independence of the peasantry, the wealth of the
burghers, and the success of their country in the war against Swe-
den naturally created in the minds of the Norwegians a proud
sense of superiority over the unhappy Danes, while the liberality
of their views widened the breach with a country still groaning
under absolutism. A 'Society for the Welfare of Norway' was
founded in 1810, and a Union with Sweden was warmly advocated,
particularly by the talented Count Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg. The
Danish government made some vain attempts to conciliate the
Norwegians, as for example by the foundation of a university at
Christiania (1811), which had been proposed so far back as 1661,
but the Norwegians themselves provided the necessary funds. In
concluding a treaty with the Russians in 1812, Sweden obtained
their consent to its future annexation of Norway, and at the Peace
of Kiel in 1814 the Danes were compelled to make the cession.

X. HISTORY. lxxv

Frederick thereupon released the Norwegians from their allegiance
to him, and the union of Norway with Denmark , which had sub-
sisted for more than four centuries, was thus dissolved.

The Literature of Norway from the Reformation to the end of
the union is inseparable from that of Denmark. As translators
of old northern laws and sagas may be mentioned L. Hans/en
(d. 1596) and P. C. Friis (d. 1614), of whom the latter also wrote
interesting works on Norwegian topography and natural history in
his native dialect. A. Pedersen (A. 1574), of Bergen, was the
author of a description of Norway and of the 'Chapter-book of
Bergen'. The historian and topographer J. Ramus (d. 1718) and
the poet Peter Dass (d. 1708), the still popular author of 'Nord-
lands Trompet', were also natives of Norway, while T. Torfmus
(d. 1719), a famous historian of Norway, was an Icelander. By
far the most important author of this period was Ludvig Holberg
of Bergen (d. 1754), the poet and historian, whose 'Peder Paars',
the 'Subterranean Journey of NilsKlim', and comedies have gained
him a European reputation. Among later poets and authors C. B.
Tullin (d. 1765), J. H. Vessel (d. 1785), C. Fasting (d. 1791),
E. Storm (d. 1794), T. de Stockfleth (d. 1808), J. N. Brun (d. 1816),
J. Zetlitz (d. 1821), and C. Friman (d. 1829) are noted for the
national character and individuality of their writings , which are
uninfluenced by the French and German taste then prevalent in
Denmark. This national school was partly indebted for its origin
to the foundation of the 'Norske Selskab' at Copenhagen in 1772,
while the 'Lserde Selskab' of Throndhjem , founded by Gunnerus,
the naturalist (d. 1773), and Scheming, the historian (d. 1780),
promoted scientific research. On the whole , notwithstanding
the want of good national schools, the Norwegian literature of this
period ranks at least as high as the Danish.

Union of Sweden and Norway.

After the Peace of Jonkoping in 1809 Norway was governed by
Prince Frederick of Hessen and afterwards by Christian Frederick,
cousin of King Frederick and heir to his throne. Christian was a
popular prince, and even after the terms of the Peace of Kiel had
been adjusted he made an effort to secure the sovereignty of the
country for himself. He summoned an assembly of notables to
Eidsvold (Feb. 1814), stated the terms of the Peace of Kiel, which
had not yet been published, and declared that he would assert his
claim in spite of it. The assembly denied the right of the king
of Denmark to hand over Norway to Sweden , but also declined to
recognise the prince's hereditary claim. They, however, appointed
him regent until a national diet should be summoned to consider
the state of affairs. The king of Sweden promised the Norwegians
a liberal constitution if they would submit to his authority; but
his offer met with no response, the country eagerly prepared to

lxxvi X. HISTORY.

assert its independence , and a temporary government was con-
stituted. On 10th April, 1814, the representatives of the country
met at Eidsvold , a constitution framed chiefly by K. M. Falsen
(d. 1830) was adopted on 17th May, and on the same day Christian
Frederick was proclaimed king. Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, the most
far-seeing of the Norwegian statesmen , who had urged a union
with Sweden, was overruled on this occasion , but his object was
soon afterwards attained. About the end of June ambassadors of
the guaranteeing powers, Russia, England, Austria, and Prussia,
arrived at Christiania to demand fulfilment of the Peace of Kiel
and to recall the regent in the name of the king of Denmark.
After fruitless negociations and the outbreak of a war with Swe-
den , which was terminated by the Convention of Moss on 14th
August, the Swedish regent temporarily recognised the new Nor-
wegian constitution, and Christian summoned a Storthing to meet
at Christiania in October, to which he tendered his resignation,
and immediately afterwards set sail for Denmark. He afterwards
reigned over Denmark as Christian VIII. (1839-48). During the
same month the Storthing, though not without reluctance, affirmed
the principle of union with Sweden, and several modifications were
made in the Eidsvold constitution, and on 4th November Charles
(XIII. of Sweden) was unanimously proclaimed king. On 10th
November the crown-prince Charles John solemnly ratified the
constitution at Christiania. With pardonable national pride, how-
ever, the Norwegians still observe the 17th of May, 1814 , as the
true date of their political regeneration.

At first as regent, and after the death of Charles XIII. (1818)
as king of Norway (1818-44), Charles John or Charles XIV. had a
difficult task to perforin in governing two kingdoms to which a
few years previously he had been an entire stranger, and with
whose languages he was imperfectly acquainted. The internal
affairs of both countries were, moreover, in an abnormally unsettled
condition, and their finances were well-nigh ruined, while foreign
states looked askance at the parvenu king and his almost repub-
lican kingdom of Norway. In 1815, however, the legislative au-
thorities of the two kingdoms drew up a formal Act of Union,
placing the connection of the countries on a satisfactory basis. By
the sale of the island of Guadeloupe to England the king was
enabled to pay part of the national debt of Sweden, and he adopted
other wise financial measures. Among other serious difficulties
was that of calling in the unsecured Danish banknotes still cir-
culating in Norway, a task which occasioned heavy sacrifices, and
at the same time a bank was founded at Throndhjem (1816). In
1821 a new burden was imposed by the unlooked for liability of
Norway for part of the national debt of Denmark, while the intro-
duction of a new educational system and other reforms was attended
with great expense. About this period the king displeased his

X. HISTORY. lxxvii

democratic Norwegian subjects by opposing their abolition of titles
of nobility (1821), by attempts to enlarge the prerogatives of the
crown and to obtain for it the absolute right to veto the resolutions
of the Storthing (1824), by appointing Swedish governors of Nor-
way, and by yielding to what were considered the unjust demands
of England in consequence of a fracas at Bode\ On the other hand,
by dint of rigid economy, sound administration, and the legalised
sale of church property for educational purposes (1821), and owing
to good harvests and successful fisheries , the prosperity of the
country rapidly improved, while the king's firmness of character
and his self-denial in renouncing his civil list for a period often
years in order to assist in paying the national debt justly gained
for him the respect and admiration of his people. From 1836 on-
wards the highest offices in Norway were filled with Norwegians
exclusively, and a new communal code (1837), penal code (1842),
and other useful laws were passed. — In Sweden the French re-
volution of 1830 caused a great sensation and led to a fruitless
demand for the abolition of the existing constitution. A conspiracy
in favour of Prince Vasa (1832) and several riots in Stockholm
(1838) were also unsuccessful. On the other hand the king earned
the gratitude of his Swedish subjects by the zeal with which he
promoted the construction of new roads and canals , particularly
that of the Gota Canal, and furthered the interests of commerce and
agriculture, and at the time of his death the internal affairs of both
kingdoms rested on a sound and satisfactory constitutional basis.

The administration of his son Oscar I. (1844-59) was of a still
more liberal and enlightened tendency. This gifted and highly
educated monarch thoroughly remodelled the law of succession
(1845) and the criminal code (1854) of Sweden, and abolished the
monopolies of guilds, but he was unsuccessful in his attempts to
procure a reform of the constitution (1845 and 1850-51). On his
accession the king rendered himself popular in Norway by present-
ing it with an appropriate national flag, and he was afterwards a
scrupulous observer of the constitution of that country. At the same
time the population and wealth of Norway now increased rapidly.
His temporary interposition in the German and Danish war re-
garding Slesvig, which led to the Armistice of Malmo (1848) and
afterwards to the occupation of Northern Slesvig by Swedish and
Norwegian troops, was regarded with favour in both of his king-
doms , where patriotic Scandinavian views were then in the
ascendant.

Oscar's eldest son Charles (XV. of Sweden ; 1859-72), a highly
popular, though pleasure-loving monarch, who was endowed with
considerable artistic and poetical talent , inaugurated the present
representative constitution of Sweden in 1865, while in Norway
the triennial Storthing was made annual (1869). In both countries
the principle of religious equality was extended , new railways

lxxviii X. HISTORY,

and roads constructed, and other reforms introduced. A threatened
conflict between the representatives of the two countries was
averted through the king's influence, and to his wisdom was due
the neutrality observed during the German and Danish war of
1863 and the Franco-German war of 1870-71 , although his sub-
jects warmly sympathised with the Danes in the one case and with
the French in the other.

In 1872 Charles was succeeded by his brother, the present
king Oscar II., a gifted prince, endowed like his father and elder
brother with considerable taste for science , poetry, and music.
Materially and intellectually his kingdoms have recently made
rapid strides. Latterly the radical and republican movement has
gained considerable ground in Norway, where it has been accom-
panied by a strong ultra-nationalistic spirit, revealing itself largely
in a revulsion of feeling against the union with Sweden.

In both kingdoms the field of Literature has been most sedu-
lously cultivated during the present century. In Sweden there
existed an academic and a neutral school, both of which , as for
example Franzen (d. 1847), were more or less influenced by
French taste , while a romantic school with German proclivities,
called 'Phosphorists' from their 'Phosphorus' periodical, was re-
presented by Hammarskold (d. 1827), Atterbom (d. 1855), and
Palmblad (d. 1852). Akin to the latter, but of more realistic and
far more national tendency, is the so-called 'Gotisk' school, to
which belong the eminent historian E. G. Oeijer (d. 1847) , the
great poet Esaias Tegne'r (A. 1846), and the poet, and inventor of
the Swedish system of sanitary gymnastics, P. H. Ling (d. 1839).
An isolated position , on the other hand , is occupied by K, J. L.
Almqvist (d. 1866) , an author of fertile imagination , but perni-
cious moral tendencies. To the highest class of modern Swedish
authors belongs the patriotic Finn , J. L. Runeberg (d. 1877) , of
whose noble and genial poetry 'Faurik Stal's Sagner' afford an
admirable example. As popular authoresses , though inferior to
some of their above-mentioned contemporaries , we may mention
Frederica Bremer (d. 1865) and Emilie Flygare-Carlen. Pre-emi-
nent among scientific men are J. J. Berzelius , the chemist (d.
1848) , E. Fries, the botanist (d. 1878) , K. A. Agardh, the bota-
nist and statistician (d. 1859) , and Sven Nilsson , the venerable
zoologist and antiquarian (d. 1883). Among modern historians
may be mentioned A. Af. Strinnholm (d. 1862), A. Fryxell F. F.
Carlson , K. G. Malmstrom, C. T. Odhner , H. Reuterdal (church
history; d. 1870), and C. J. Slyter (legal history); and to this
period also belong B. E. Hildebrand and R. Dybeck , the anti-
quarians, J. E. Rietz, the philologist, and C. J. Bostrom, the
philosopher. — In Norway , whose literature since 1814 has as-
sumed a distinct national individuality , and though written in
Danish has adopted a considerable number of words and idioms

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.

lxxix

peculiar to the country , the poets H. Wergeland (A. 1845) and
J. Velhaven (d. 1873) occupy the foremost rank. Of the still living
poets and novelists Bjernstjerne Bjernson, Henrik Ibsen, Jonas
Lie, and Alexander Kjelland, the two former in particular have
earned a well-merited reputation far beyond the confines of Nor-
way. Of high rank among scientific men are N. H. Abel, the mathe-
matician (d. 1829), C. Hansteen , the astronomer (d. 1873) , and
M. Sars (d. 1869) and his son O. Sars, the naturalists. Eminent
historians are R. Keyset (d. 1864), P. A. Munch (d. 1863), C. C.
A. Lange (d. 1861), and the still living O. Rygh, E. Sars, L. Daae,
and Q. Storm; distinguished jurists, A. M. Schweigaard (d. 1870),
F. Brandt, and T. H. Aschehoug ; philologists, S. Bugge, C. R.
Vnger, J. Storm, and the lexicographer Ivar Aasen ; meritorious
collectors of national traditions, M. B. Landstad, J. Moe, and par-
ticularly P. C. Asbjernsen. H. Steffens, the philosopher and poet
(d. 1845), and C. Lassen, the Sanscrit scholar (d. 1876), were
Norwegians who spent the greater part of their lives in Germany.
Lastly, in the province of Art, we may mention the Norwegian
painters Tidemand (d. 1877), Dahl, Morten Miiller, and Oude (b.
1825), and the Swedish sculptors Bystrbm (1848) and Fogelberg
(d. 1854), but a glance at the galleries of Stockholm and Christiania
will show that the list might easily be extended.

Chronological Table.

Norway.

Ynglingar Line.
Harald Haarfager . . . (?)860-933

Erik Blodtfks 930

Haakon Adelstensfostre, 'the

Good' 935

Harald Graafeld .... (?)96 1-975

Haakon Jarl (?)975

Olaf Tryggvason 995

Erik and Svejn, Jarler . . . 1000

Olaf Haraldsstfn, 'the Saint' . 1015

Svejn Knutssgrn 1030

Magnus Olafss0n, 'the Good' . 1035

Harald Sigurdsstfn Hardraade 1046

Olaf Haraldsstfn Kyrre . . . 1066

Magnus Olafssefn Barfod . . 1093

Olaf Magnuss0n .... 1103-16

0yste,jn Magnussun . . . 1103-22

Sigurd Jorsalafarer . . . 1103-30

Magnus SigurdssUn Blinde 1130-35
Harald Magnusstfn Gille . 1130-36
Sigurd Haraldsstfn Mund . 1136-55
Inge Haraldssun Krokryg . 1136-61
jBfystejn Haraldsstfn .... 1142
Haakon Sigurdsstfn Herdebred 1157
Magnus Erlingsstfn .... 1161

Sweden.

Ragnar Lodbrok's Line.

Erik 'VII.' Sejersiel . . (d.)995
Olaf Sktftkonung 995

Anund (Onund) Jakob . . . 1021

Emund Slemme ('J1050

SlenkiVs Line.

Stenkil (?)1056

Inge I. Stenkilsson .... 1066

Philip Hallstenssnn
Inge Hallstensson

. 1111-19
(V)1111-2S

Sverker't Line.
Sverker Kolsson 1132

Erik IX. Jedvardsson, 'theSaint' 1150
Karl VII., Sverkersson . . 1160

lxxx

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE.

Norway.

Sweden.

Knut Eriksson ....

. 1167

Sverre Sigurdssjarn

1177

Sverker Karlsson . .

. 1195

Haakon Sverress0n ....

1202

Guttorni Sigurdssgfn ....

1204

Inge Baardssdn

1204

Erik X. Knutsson . . .

. 1210

Haakon Haakonssgrn, 'the Old'

1217

J-ohan Sverkersson

. 1216

Magnus Haakonss/zrnLagabjjter 1263

Erik Magnussafn 1280

Haakon V., Magnussiafn . . 1299

Magnus Eriksson, 'Smek' . . 1319

Haakon VI., Magnusstfn . . 1355

Olaf Haakonssun, 'the Young' 1381

Margaret, 'Valdemarsdatter' . 1387

Denmark and Norway.

Erik of Pomerania .... 1389

Christopher of Bavaria . . 1112

Karl Knutss#n 1419

Christian 1 1150

Hans 1183

Christian II 1513

Frederick I. .
Christian 111.
Frederick II.

Christian IV.

1521
1537
1559

1588

1648

1670
1699
1730
1746

Frederick HI.

Christian V.
Frederick IV.
Christian VI.
Frederick V.

Christian VII.

Frederick VI 1808

Christian Frederick .... 1814

Charles (XIII.) 1814

Charles (XIV.) John . . 1818

Oscar I . 1814

Charles (XV.) 1859

Oscar II 1872

Erik XI., Eriksson Lsespe . 1222

Folkungar Line.

Valdemar Birgersson . . . 1250

Magnus Ladulas 1276

Birger Magnusson .... 1290

Magnus Eriksson, 'Smek' . . 1319

Other Lines, and Administrators.

Albert of Mecklenburg . . . 1363

Sweden with Denmark and

Norway.

Margaret 1387

Sweden.

Erik XIII. of Pomerania . . 1396

Karl Knutsson, Administrator 1436

Christopher of Bavaria . . . 1441

Karl VIII., Knutsson . . 1418

Christian I. . , 1457

Karl VIII., Knutsson . . . 1464

Sten Sture, Administrator . 1471

Svante Nilsson 1504

Sten Sture the Younger . . 1512

Christian II 1520

The Vasa Line.

Gustavus Vasa 1523

Erik XIV 1560

John III 1568

Sigismund 1592

Charles IX 1604

Gustavus Adolphus .... 1611

Christina 1632

Palatinate Line.

Charles X 1654

Charles XI 1660

Charles XII 1697

Frederick of Hessen .... 1718

Ilolstein Line.

Adolphus Frederick .... 1751

Gustavus III 1771

Gustavus IV 1792

Charles XIII 1S09

Bernadolte Family.

Charles XIV jgig

Oscar I ' ^844

Charles XV 1859

0scar n 1872

^Snlsval^W^T^

41 1 pJ:oi7.<;piri!}i

1. Christiania and Environs.

Arrival. The large steamers from London, Hull, Hamburg, etc., land
their passengers at the Toldbodbrygge or the Jernbanebrygge, the two prin-
cipal quays near the Custom House (PI. D, E, 7), both at the Bjeroiken, or
E. harbour. Porterage from the steamer, on board of which luggage is
slightly examined, to one of the principal hotels : 30 0. for 601bs. or un-
der, 400. for 60-140 lbs. (only porters with numbers should be employed).
Cabs, see below. — Travellers by railway from Sweden arrive at the 0st-
or Hovedbanegaard (PI. D, 6), where luggage is slightly examined, and from
Drammen at the Vestbanegaard (PI. B,7). Porterage and cabs thence to the
hotels, see above.

Hotels. "Victoria (PI. h : C, D, 7), at the corner of the Raadhus-Gade
and Dronningens-Gade, a large, old-established house; *Gkand Hotel (PI.
B, C, 6), Karl-Johans-Gade, well situated at the E. end of the Eidsvolds-Plads,
R. from 3 kr., L. 80, A. 50 0., table-d'hote 1-5 p.m. 3 kr., two dishes a la
carte by tickets purchased in advance 80 0. (good cuisine); "Hotel Skan-
dinavie (PI. f : C, D, 6), at the corner of the Karl-Johans-Gade and the Dron-
ningens-Gade, very central; Britannia (PI. a; D, 7), at the corner of the
Toldbod-Gade and the Store Strand-Gade, the nearest hotel to the quay,
well spoken of. — Royal Hotel (PI. e : D, 6), Jernbane-Torv, commercial,
R. from I1/* kr., B. 80 0., D. 2'/2, S. I1/2 kr. — Angleterre (PI. b: C, 7),
at the corner of the Raadhus-Gade and the Kongens-Gade, R. l>/2kr., h.
& A. 50, B. 70 0., 'pens.' 2>/2 kr., well spoken of; Kong Oscar, near the
Vestbanegaard. — H6UU Gartiis (all well spoken of): Chr. Knudsen, Tor-
denskjolds-Gade 8, near the Eidsvolds-Plads (landlord speaks English);
Schnurbusch, Storthings-Gade ; Fru Hansen, Karl-Johans-Gade 41, R. I1/2 kr.;
Sestrene Waalen, Karl-Johans-Gade 12; Sidsel Aanrud, same street 33; Freken
Anne Kure, corner of the Karl-Johans-Gade and the Kirke-Gade, moder-
ate charges.

Restaurants. At the hotels; -Christoffersen, corner of Bankplads and
Kirke-Gade, first floor; "Gravesen, Storthings-Gade 8 ; Frimurer-Logen (PI. 7 .
O, 8), Grev-Wedels-Plads; Tivoli, see p. 2. — Cafes. In the Grand HSlel
see above, Bavarian beer 30 0. per glass; Idtm, Skipper-Gade; Frilzner
opposite the University ; Studenterlunden, see p. 6. Beer also in the Bazar-
Hallen, below Thaulow's Bazaar, in the Youngs-Torv. — Confectioners
'Baumann, 0vre Slots-Gade 10; Qilnther, Karls-Johans-Gade, next door to
Tostrup's (p. 2).

Cabs. The driver is called ' Vognmand'' :

Per drive within the town

For each additional person

Per drive in the suburbs

For each additional person

Per hour within the town and its immediate
environs

lHorse; IPers.

— 40 0.

- 20 -

— 80 -

- 30

2Hors.;l-2P.

— 80 0.

— 20 -
1 kr. 20

— 30 -

1 kr. 50 - 2 kr. 50

For each additional person | — 25 - — 50

At night (11 p.m. to 8 a.m. from 1st May to 30th Sept. ; 10 p.m. to
0 a.m. during the rest of the year) the fares are for one-horse cabs 80 #.
(20 0. for each additional person), and for two-horse cabs 1 kr. 20 0. (30 0.
for each additional person). In one-horse cabs 501bs. of luggage, in two-
horse cabs lOOlbs. are carried free.

Tramway ( Sporvogn). From the Stor-Torv, or principal market-place ad-
joining Vor Frelsers Kirke, to the Vestbanegaard (W.), Homansby (N.W.),
Grilnerlekken (N.E.), and Oslo (S.E.), every 5 min. from about 8 a.m.
to 10 p.m. on week-days, and from about noon to 10 p.m. on Sundays. Fare
for each of these trips 15 0. — As there are no conductors, each passenger

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 1

2 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Shops.

drops his fare into an ingenious box placed near the driver. The coins
fall on a slide where they are seen through a pane of glass by the driver,
who then tilts them into the box below. The drivers give change, the
coin being handed to them through the opening marked 'Vexling', but
have no access to the money-box.

Post and Telegraph Offices at the corner of the Kirke-Gade and
Karl-Johans-Gade (PI. C, 6). Post Office (PI. 27) open from 8 a.m. to 7.30
p.m.; Sundays 8-10 a.m. and 5-8 p.m. Telegraph Office (PI. 32), open
daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; open at night also for foreign telegrams.

Banks (open 10-2). Norske Credit -Bank, at the corner of the Kirke-
Gade and Prindsens - Gade ; Christiania Bank and Credit - Kasse , Torvet,
W. side; Norges Bank, Bank-Plads; Th. Joh. Heftye & Son, Toldbod-Gade
20; N. A. Andresen <£ Co., Kirke-Gade 6; P. Henschien & Co., Prindsens-
Gade 22. At any of these circular notes may be changed.

Consulates. American: Torvet 2; consul, Mr. Gerhard Gade. British:
Karl-Johans-Gade 33; consul-general, Th. Michell, Esq.

Shops. [Purchases should not be made in the presence or by the advice of
guides or couriers, as their commission is apt to be added to the price.]
Booksellers: Cammermeyer,s Boghandel, Karl-Johans-Gade 41 and 43; Dyb-
wad, opposite the Post Office (p. 5); Aschehoug, Karl-Johans-Gade 43; Alb.
Cammermeyer, Karl-Johans-Gade 33 (from autumn 1839, Storthings-Gade 6),
the publisher of the 'Norges Communicationer' (see p. xix) and many ex-
cellent maps of Norway. — Music Sellers : Karl Warmuth, Kirke-Gade 17
(Scandinavian music and musical instruments); Hals, Karl-Johans-Gade 27.
— Jewellers (noted for filigree and enamel work): J. Tostrup, Karl-Jo-
hans-Gade 25, opposite the Storthing; Thune, Karl-Johans-Gade, S. side,
near the Jt^vre Slots-Gade ; Andersen, corner of Kirke-Gade and Prindsens-
Gade — Norwegian Wood-carvinga, Textile Fabrics, and Gilt Leather Arti-
cles: Norsk Hvsflidsbolag , Karl-Johans-Gade 25. — Furriers: P. Backer, E.
Larsen, both in the Kongens-Gade. — Art-dealers : Blomkvist, Karl-Johans-
Gade 41 (pictures by Norwegian artists); Abel, Karl-Johans-Gade 45 (photo-
graphs and engravings). — Fancy Articles : Vollmann, Kongens-Gade 22. —
Travelling Requisites: W. Schmidt, agent of the Turist-Forening, Kirke-
Gade 21; Steren, corner of Grsendse-Gade and Akers-Gade, cheaper. —
Stationery, Photographs, etc. : Olsen, Karl-Johans-Gade, near the Hotel
Skandinavie; Grenvold, Kongens-Gade 29; Andvord (best photographs),
opposite the post-office, next door to Dybwad's (see above). — Preserved
Meats, etc.: E. Lexow & Co., Toldbod-Gade 8; C. J. Christophersen <k Co.,
under the Hotel Skandinavie; Bergwitz, 0vre Slots-Gade; Chr. Magnus,
Karl-Johans-Gade 33, next door to the Grand Hotel. — Shoemaker : Solberg,
Karl-Johans-Gade, near the Hotel Skandinavie. — Cigars: Jebe, Qleersen,
it Co., Karl-Johans-Gade. — Travelling requisites of all kinds may also
be purchased of Mr. T. Bennet, Store Strand-Gade 17.

Turist-Foreningen (see Introd. iv.). Secretary, Mr. T. Strandenoes, at
the office of the 'Aftenposten'.

Newspapers at the principal hotels, and at the Athena;um (p. 6), Akers-
Gade, at the back of the Storthings Building, a reading -club to which
travellers are admitted for a fortnight when introduced by a member.

Baths. Christiania-Bad, at the corner of Munkedamsvejen and Rings-
gangen, nearly opposite the University, with modern appliances, Roman
baths, cfec; Badeanstalt (PI. C, D, 5), Torv-Gade. Warm salt-water baths
at the Victoria Terrace (p. 10). — Baths in the Fjord: Hygaia&S 0.) and
Selyst (10 St.), for swimmers. The baths at Bygdv (p. 14) are more esteem-
ed on account of the greater purity of the water. The rise and fall of
the tide averages 1-2 ft. only.

Theatres and Music. Christiania-Theater (PI. 33; C 7), Bank-Plads,
usually closed in summer. Boxes 2'/2kr., pit 1 kr. 60 0. — At the Tivoli
(PI. B, 7; with a restaurant), in the Eidsvolds-Plads, nearly opposite the
University, concerts and theatrical performances take place daily (some-
times operas); admission 1/4-I kr. — Military Music daily at 2-3 p.m. (Sun.
12.30 to 1.30), and occasionally in the evening, in the Studenterlunden (p. 6).

Diorama of the Lyngenfjord and other Norwegian landscapes, Karl-
Johans-Gade 41.

History. CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 3

Steamers to London every Thursday; to Hull on Fridays; to Grange-
mouth (Glasgow) from Ttfnsberg on alternate Fridays; to Newcastle on
Wednesdays; to New York once a fortnight; to Gothenburg five times,
and to Copenhagen thrice weekly direct, and once touching at Fredriks-
havn; to Christianssand daily; to Bergen five times weekly; to Throndhjem
four times weekly ; to Hamburg, Amsterdam, Antwerp , &c. All these
vessels start from the Toldbodbrygge, the Fsestningsbrygge, or the Jern-
banebrygge {PI. D, E, 7). — Small steamers ply from the Jernbanebrygge
to Moss, Horten, Fredrikstad, Fredrikshald, Tensberg, and the islands
in the Bundefjord ; and also from the Pipervik (PI. A, B, S) to Fredriks-
borg on the Ladegaardsizf , once or oftener daily, affording pleasant ex-
cursions. — For these, besides a number of other steamers to places on
the fjord, Drammen, etc., see 'Norges Communicationer'.

Small Boats may be hired of the ^Fcvrgemamd'' on the Pipervik and
at the Baadforening by the fortress for 1 kr. 20 91. per hour. An excursion
may be made by boat to the Hovede, with its scanty monastery ruins,
to visit which (strictly speaking) permission from the commandant of
the fortress is required (p. 11).

English Church (opened in 1884), in the Moller-Gade. Service at 11
a.m. Chaplain, Rev. A. F. Heaton.

Principal Attractions. Walk or drive from the 0stbanegaard across
the Jernbane-Torv and through the Karl-Johans-Gade. Walk on the ram-
parts of the Akershus fortress in the early morning (p. 5). The col-
lections in the University (Viking ships, p. 7); the Museum of Sculptures
and National Gallery (p. 8); the Palace (p. 9). View from St. Hanshaugen,
about 1 Engl. M. to the N. of the Storthings Building (see p. 6). Ex-
cursions to Oscarshall (p. 11) and to Frognerswter (p. 12). Sail on the
Fjord in one of the small steamers starting from the Pipervik. — Even-
ing at the Tivoli (p. 2).

Christiania, the capital of Norway, beautifully situated at the N.
end of the Christiania Fjord and on the W. bank of the small Akers-
Elv, in 59° 54 ' N. lat. and 10° 50 ' E. long., was founded by Christian IV.
in 1624 on the plain to the N. of the fortress of Akershus, and
named after him, being intended as a substitute for the older town
of Oslo, on the E. bank of the stream, which had been almost entirely
burned down in that year. Oslo, founded by Harald Hardraada about
the year 1050 , afterwards became a depot of the Hanseatic League
and the capital of Norway, but was burned down by its inhabitants
in 1567 to prevent its falling into the hands of Swedish besiegers,
and was again destroyed in 1624. It once possessed a richly endowed
cathedral, dedicated to St. Halvard, where several of the Norwegian
kings were interred, and where James I. of England married Anne
of Denmark in 1589. The inhabitants of Christiania (almost ex-
clusively Protestants) numbered 32,000 in 1835, 94,869 in 1875,
130,800 in 1885, and about 140,000 in 1888.

Christiania is the seat of government and of the supreme court
of Norway, and the headquarters of the Storthing or parliament. It
also boasts of a University, containing several scientific collections,
a National Picture Gallery, an Observatory, a Royal Palace , and a
number of charitable and other institutions. The chief exports are
timber, fish, matches, beer, and various manufactured goods, and
the imports wheat, wine, etc., the former being valued at about 25,
and the latter at 72 million kroner in 1882. In 1885 the town
possessed 282 sailing-vessels and 64 steamers. In the neighbour-

4 Route 1. CHRLST1ANIA. Vor-Frelsers-Kirke

hood are several considerable engine- works, breweries, cotton-mills,
and paper-manufactories, most of which lie on the Akers-Elv.

Owing to its comparatively recent origin, as well as to destructive
nres by which it was visited in 1686, 1708, and 1858, Christiania
now presents a substantial modern appearance, most of the old
timber-built houses having disappeared. Beyond the beauty of the
situation at the foot of gently sloping, grassy, and pine-clad hills,
with the picturesque fjord stretching into the distance , studded
with islands, and enlivened with occasional steamboats and sailing
vessels, the town offers few inducements for a prolonged stay. Our
walk or drive through the principal streets includes the chief points
of interest, all of which may be visited in half-a-day, if the traveller
is pressed for time. A couple of hours should also, if possible, be
devoted to the excursion to Oscarshall (p. 10).

Starting from the Toldbodbrygge, or Custom House Quay
(PI. D,7), situated on Bjerviken, the bay which bounds the town
on the S.E., and proceeding to the N., we come in 2 min. to the
0stbanegaard, or Eastern Railway Station (PI. D, 6), which is also
known as the Hoved-Banegaard ('principal railway-station'; p. 1),
a handsome building erected by Schirmer and Von Hanno in 1854
and enlarged in 1879. Leaving the railway - station , we cross the
Jembane-Torv to the W. and ascend the Karl-Johans-Oade{2\. D,
C, B, 6), the most important street in the town. On the right
(2 min.) is a handsome building containing the Brandvagt (PI. 3 :
0, 6), or fire-station , and the Basarer ('bazaars'), occupied by
butchers, poulterers, etc. A few paces farther on, also on the right,
lies the Stor-Tokv (PI. C, 6; 'great market'), usually known
simply as Torvet ('the market'). It is adorned with a Statue of
Christian IV., by Jacobsen (1874). On the E. side of the market-
place rises —

Vor-Frelsers-Kirke (PI. 16), or Church of Our Saviour, a large
cruciform edifice with a conspicuous tower, consecrated in 1697,
and restored by Chateauneuf in 1849-56. The altar-piece, re-
presenting Christ in Gethsemane , is by the German artist E.
Steinle, and the marble font by Fladager. — The Torv-Gade
leads hence to the N., passing on the left the Dampkjekken ('steam
kitchen'), a large establishment for the benefit of the poorer classes,
where about 2000 persons are daily provided with dinners for 27-
45 0. each. Some of the customers carry away their food , while
others dine at large marble tables provided for the purpose. A
few paces farther on in the same direction is the Nytorv ('new
market'), on the left(W.) side of which rise the Byret ('municipal
court') and the Politikammer (PI. 4), or police-office. Beyond this
market-place, on the left side of the same street, is situated the
Badeanstalt (PI. D, 5; p. 2), a handsome building, suitably fitted
up. (The entrance to the ladies' baths is at the back.) The Akers-
Gade, leading to St. Hanshaugen (p. 6), is only 3 min. walk

Akershus. CHRLSTIANIA. 7. Route. 5

from this point. The Torv-Gade then leads to the N., past Anker-
lekkens-Gravlund , to the Akerselv, which forms several waterfalls
higher up. Adjoining the falls are numerous manufactories, some
of which are of considerable size. On the E. bank of the river
lies the well-built suburb of Gruner Lekken, with the Olaf Rye's
Plads. — We retrace our steps to the Karl-Johans-Gade , cross it,
passing the —

Post and Telegraph Offices (PI. 27, 32 ; C, 6), at the corner of
that street and the Kirke-Gade, and follow the latter. After 3 min.
we cross the Raadhus - Gade , and a little farther on reach the
Theatre (PI. 33), erected in 1837, opposite to which , on the W.
side of the Bank-Plads, is situated. Norges Bank (PI. 25). To the
E. is Grev-Wedels-Plads, with pleasure-grounds, adjoining which
is the Freemasons' Lodge (PI. 1). A little to the S. of the Bank,
we next reach the fortress of —

Akershus, or Agershus (PI. C, 8), situated on the E. bank of the
Pipervik. The date of its foundation is unknown, but it is mention-
ed as having been besieged by Duke Erik of Sweden in 1310. In
1355-80 the works were extended by Haakon VI., and they were
farther strengthened in the 16-18th centuries, but have since been
partially levelled, and are now of no military importance. The castle
was besieged unsuccessfully by Christian II. in 1531-32, and by the
Swedes in 1567 and 1716. The fortress is now used as an arsenal
(armoury shown to visitors by an attendant) and prison, and also
contains the garrison-church. Permission to visit the monastery ruins
on the Hovedfl (p. 11) is obtained at the office of the Feldteimester
('master of the ordnance', in the 'Artillerigaard'). The ramparts,
which have been converted into pleasant promenades, afford beauti-
ful views of the fjord, especially in the morning.

Retracing our steps to the Bank-Plads and the Raadhus-Gade,
we turn to the left and soon reach the Johanskirke (PI. 13; C, 7),
built of yellow brick ('Flensburger Sten') by Bull, and completed
in 1878. It contains a good altar-piece by Eilif Petersen, eight
monolithic granite columns , and a marble font. The sacristan
('kirketjener') lives at Akers-Gadel,on theW. side of the church. —
The Raadhus-Gade now descends to the W. to the Pipervik, where
we observe opposite to us the handsome Vestbanegaard, and obtain
a fine view of the fjord, with the rocks of Akershus rising on the
left. We next proceed to the N. by the Tordenskjolds-Gade to the
Eidsvolds - Plads , a fine square, planted with trees, on the E.
(right) side of which rises the —

Storthings -Bygning (PI. 30: C, 6), or assembly-hall of the
Norwegian Parliament, a handsome edifice, half Romanesque,
half Byzantine, designed by Langlet, and completed in 1866. The
chief facade, flanked with two lions in granite by Borch, overlooks
the Plads, and the N. side adjoins the Karl-Johans-Gade. The In-
terior is shown by the 'Vagtmester' or custodian, who is to be found

6 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. St. Hanshaugen.

at the entrance from the Storthings-Gade, on the S. side of the
building (fee 72-1 kr.). The Storthings-Sal, with accommodation
for about 150 deputies and an audience of 300 persons, contains a
large painting by Oscar Wergeland, representing the first discussion
of the Norwegian constitution (p. lxxvi) ; the smaller Lagthings-Sal
has seats for 40 members and 130 visitors. The Storthing meets on
the first week-day in February and generally sits till the middle of
June.

The Eidsvolds-Plads is embellished with a statue of the poet
Henrik Wergeland (d. 1845), by Bergslien. To the W., in front of
the University, extends the Studenterlunden (PI. B, 6 ; music, see
p. 2; cafe in summer).

In the Akers-Gade, at the back of the Storthings-Hus , is the
Athenaeum (PI. 1 ; see p. 2), including the Norwegian Society,
the finest modern building in the town. Following the Akers-Gade
towards the N., we next reach the Trefoldigheds-Kirke (PI. 15:
0,5,6), or Church of the Trinity, on the right, a Gothic edifice,
partly designed by Chateauneuf, and erected in 1853-58. The
interior forms a handsome octagon. It contains an altar-piece
(Baptism of Christ) by Tidemand and a font with an angel by
MiddeJthun. A few paces beyond it is the Roman Catholic St. Olafs-
Kirke (PI. 14), erected in 1853, with a school at the back, where
the road divides.

The Akersvei, to the right, leads past the E. side of Von Frel-
kbrs Cemetery (see below) in 6 min. to the *Gamle Akerg Kirke
(PI. B, 4), one of the oldest churches in Norway, mentioned before
1150, and perhaps founded by King Olaf Kyrre. It was skilfully
restored in the original style by Schirmer and Von Hanno in 1861 .
The church is a basilica in the Anglo-Norman Romanesque style,
with nave and aisles; and the interior is remarkable for the manner
in which the square at the crossing is closed on all sides by walls,
through which door-like openings connect with the nave, transepts,
and choir. The sacristan lives in the small yellow house opposite
the church. — The Vllevoldsvei, to the left of St. Olafs-Kirke, leads
past the W. side of Vor - Frelsers-Gravlund , a well-shaded ce-
metery, embellished with flower-beds, and provided with numer-
ous benches for the use of mourners. The N. part forms a pleasant
park, and commands fine views. In 5 min. more we reach —

*St. Hanshaugen or 'St. John's Hill' (PI. A, 3, 4), a prettily
laid out eminence about 280 ft. above the sea-level, on the summit
of which there is a reservoir belonging to the city waterworks. The
tower commands an excellent survey of the town , the fjord and
islands beyond it, the Ekeberg (p. 12) to the left, Oscarshall (p. 11)
to the right, and Frognersaeter on the hill to the N.W. (see p. 12).
Cards of admission, scarcely necessary for strangers, may be obtain-
ed at Pl»ens-Gade 3. The attendant, for whom the visitor rings,
names the chief points (fee forbidden).

University. CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 7

Another very fine view, especially of the harbour, is obtained from
the Kampen, another reservoir, a little to the E. of the Botanic Garden
(PI. E, F, 4). Its position is marked by a flag-staff.

We now return by the same route, or by the St. Olafs-Plads,
to the "W. of the church of that name, to the Karl-Johans-Gade,
where we next visit the —

University (PI. B, 6), a handsome edifice in the classical style,
with two wings at right angles to it. The establishment was found-
ed by Frederick VI. in 1811, but the present building was erected
in 1841-53 by Orosch, whose design was partly suggested by
Schinkel of Berlin. There are five faculties with a staff of 55 pro-
fessors, who lecture gratis to upwards of 1000 students.

The central building, in front of which stands the statue of the
Norwegian jurist and politician Ant. Martin Schweigaard (d. 1870),
by Middelthun, erected in 1883, contains most of the lecture-rooms
and also the Zoological Museum, the Botanical Museum (Mon.,
12-2), the Zootomical Museum, the Mineralogical Cabinet (Frid.,
12-1), the Ethnographical Museum, the Physical Cabinet, and the
Medical Collections. The fine staircase deserves attention.

The Zoological Museum (open on Sun., Mon., & Frid., 12-2) is reached
by ascending the staircase, turning to the left, and entering the last door
on the left. In the 1st (Reading) Room, birds, etc.; in the 2nd R., mam-
malia; in the 3rd R., fish and reptiles. — We now pass a staircase on
the left descending to the Zootomical Museum (skeletons, and anatomical
preparations), and enter the 4th and 5th Rooms, which contain an exten-
sive and valuable collection of birds.

Ethnographical Museum (reached by a staircase in the N.W. corner,
from the garden at the back; Mon. and Frid. 1-2, Sun. 12-2). 1st Room:
Scandinavian costumes, furniture, and implements. 2nd R.: Laplander's
tent, reindeer, and pulk. Another staircase now ascends to a series of
small rooms containing articles of dress, implements, utensils, armour,
weapons, manufactures, etc., from other parts of the world.

The E. wing, known as the Domus Academica, contains the
Festsal or Aula, the Collection of Northern Antiquities, and the
Cabinet of Coins (Mon. & Frid., 1-2; 45,000 specimens). These
collections are reached by ascending the staircase and turning to
the left.

The Collection of Northern Antiquities (open on Sun., Mon., and Frid.,
12-2) is arranged in seven rooms. In the Vestibule are several finely carved
church-doors. — Room I. (that farthest to the right) : relics of the flint
and bronze ages. Rooms II., III., and IV. are devoted to the earlier and
later parts of the iron period. Room V. contains mediseval relics (A.D.
1000-1500) , the chief of which have their names and dates attached.
Among them are three "Church-portals from old Norwegian wood-churches,
dating from the 12-13th centuries. Room VI. contains several other in-
teresting door-posts and portals of the same period. Room VII. is occu-
pied with curiosities of later date than 1500, including tankards in wood
and metal, bridal crowns, trinkets, fire-arms, and tools.

The W. wing is occupied by the Library, which consists of
250,000 vols, and is open to the public on the first five days of the
■week from 12-2 (reading-room 11-3; closed in July and Aug.).
Entrance in the Frederiks-Gade.

A shed behind the central part of the university contains two "Viking
Ships, supposed to date from the 9th century. One, excavated at G-ogstad,

8 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA Museum of Art.

near Sandefjord (p. 31), in 1880, is 76 ft. long and 14-16 ft. broad. The steer-
ing-gear is on one side instead of at the end. Adm. on Mon. and Frid.,
12-2 (at other times for a fee of 10-25 0).

To the N. of the University is the handsome *Museum of Art
(PI. 21), built in the Italian Renaissance style by Adolf Schirmer
and presented to the town by the Christiania Sparebank, or Savings
Bank. The wings are not yet completed. Admission on Sun.,
Tues., and Thurs. 12-2, free; at other times on application to the
'Vagtmester' (fee i/^-l kr.).

The Ground Floor contains the *Sculpture Gallery (Seulptur-
Musceet ; Historical and Descriptive Catalogue, by Prof. Dietrich-
son, 1 kr.).

The Vestibule and the three adjoining Rooms contain the Casts of
Ancient Sculptures , and the Staircase and Hall the Casts vf Renaissance
and Modern Sculptures. — The other rooms contain Original Works by
Norwegian Masters, the finest of which are: 328, 329. Fladager, Angel
with font (model and sketch); Borch, 330. Jephthah's Daughter, 331. The
first lesson, 331a. The Sulamite Maiden, 331b. David, 332. Bust of Rector
Vibe, one of the founders of the collection ; 333. Slceibrok, Ragnar Lod-
brok among the serpents; no number, Skeibrok, The mother's watch.

A wide double staircase ascends to the Upper Floor, which con-
tains the National Gallery, a collection of paintings founded in
1837 and belonging to government. It contains about 300 ancient
and modern works, chiefly by Norwegian masters but also including
several good specimens of the Dutch school. Historical and De-
scriptive Catalogue, by Prof. Dietrichson, 1 kr.

We first enter the —

East Room. Danish School. 198. Jens Juel, Bernt Anker, a Norwegian
patriot of the 18th cent. ; 201. C. W. Eckersberg , Alms-giving at the con-
vent; 202. JV. Simonsen, Caravan overtaken by a simoom; 204, 205, Griin-
land, Flowers and fruit; 206. Serensen, 0resund, near Kronborg ; ''Kreyer,
Concert in the studio. — Swedish School. 210. Kjbrboe, Fox ; Amalie Linde-
gren, 214. The widow and her child, 215. Grandfather's lesson; 217. Fager-
lin, Discomforts of bachelor life; 218. E. Bergh, Birch wood. — We now
turn to the right and enter the —

South Room (lighted from above). Norwegian School. J. C. Dahl (178S-
1857), 230. Laurvik, 231. The Hougfos; Th. Feamley (1802-1842), 235.
The Labrofos, 236. Grindelwald Glacier ; 241. Baade (1808-1879), Norwegian
coast-scene by moonlight ; Adolf Tidemand (1814-76), "246. A solitary couple
(family worship in a cottage), "247. Cottage meeting of the Haugianer (a
religious sect), 248. Administration of the Sacrament to a dying man ;
250. F. Bee (b. 1820), Breakfast; Eckersberg (1822-1870), 253. Valle in the
Ssetersdal, 254. Mountain scenery; H. F. Gude (b. 1826), 258. Norwegian
landscape, 259. Mountain view, "261. Christiania Fjord, 262. Before the
rain, 263. Scene in North Wales; "267. H. A. Cappelen (1827-1852), Forest
scene in Lower Telemarken ; 272. A'. Bergslien (b. 1827), Portrait of the
artist's father ; Morten Mutter (b. 1828), 273. Scene on the Christiania Fjord,
274. Hardanger Fjord; 276. E. Bodom (1829-1879), Scene in Nordmarken;
279. P. N. Arbo (b. 1831), Asgaardsrejen (The Wild Huntsman); 281. A.
Askevold (b. 1834), Mountain lake in summer; 285. Karl Hansen (b. 1841),
In captivity; "287. L. Munthe (b. 1841), Coast-scene in winter; No number,
Munthe, Autumn evening; E. Petersen (b. 1852), 289. Portrait of a lady,
2S9a. Siesta; 304. Skredsvig (b. 1854), Subject from Northern France; 303.
Ucherrnan, Flemish team; 306. Oerh. Munthe (b. 1849), A summer's day;
308. O. Sindmg(b. 1842), Scene from the Lofoden Islands; 302. E. Werens-
kiold (b. 1855), Girl from Telemarken ; Am. Nielsen, "302 a. Rustic burial
299. Scene on the Hardanger Fjord; "278. P. N. Arbo, The Valkyries.

National Gallery CHRISTIANIA. 1. Route. 9

West Room: ■Sketches »nd studies by Ad. Tidemand; 283. Stollenberg-
Lerche (b. 1837), Payment of tithes at the convent. We next enter the —

North Rooms (lighted from the roof), the first of which is devoted
to the French, Italian, and German Schools. Italian Masters : "1. Fine old
copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, wrongly ascribed to Bernardino
Luini ; 5. Venetian Master , Massacre of the Innocents ; 6. In the style of
Caravaggio, Laughing head; 12. B. Strozzi, The tribute money, 13. Salva-
tor Rosa, Landscape. — German Masters: 134, 135. Barth. Beham, Por-
traits; 141. J. J. Hartmann, John the Baptist in the wilderness; "145.
Seibold, Portrait ; Anton Graff, 155. Portrait of a lady, 157. Portrait of his
son (the landscape painter of the same name) ; 173. 0. Wagner, Ponte
Rotto ; 175. K. Sohn , Tasso and the ladies of Ferrara ; 176. C. F. Lessing,
Scene on the Rhine ; "177. R. Jordan, Family worship ; 178. E. Geselschap,
Christmas morning; 179. K. Hiibner, Emigrants paying a farewell visit
to the graves of their relatives ; 180. A. Achenbach, Beach at Scheveningen ;
182. A. W. Leu, Waterfall in Norway; 183. 0. Achenbach, Italian land-
scape; 184. A. Seel, Cloisters. — French Masters; 187. C. de la Fosse,
Achilles discovered by Ulysses among the daughters of Lycomedes. The
other works are unimportant.

The second North Room contains the works of the Flemish and Dutch
Schools: "22. Pieter Claeissens, Portrait of himself; 24. Francken the El-
der, The works of charity; 26. Abr. Bloemaert, St. Jerome; 28. Pourbus
the Younger, Portrait; 30. R. Savery, Landscape with accessories; 32. Al.
Adriaenssen, Still-life; 34. Jac. Jordaens, Allegorical representations of
the blessings of the peace of Westphalia ; 35. L. van Uden, Drunken peasant ;
'38. Jan Fyt, Fight between dogs and wolves; 50, 51. P. v. Bloemen, Ca-
valry skirmish , Cattle driven off by armed horsemen ; 56. J. Horemans,
Peasant meal; "59. Hellemans , Forest scene, with sheep by /. Verboeck-
hoven; 63. Mierevell, Portrait; 67. B. v. d. Ast, Fruit; "71. Corn. v. Ketrten
(Ravesteynt), Portrait; 72. E. v. d. Velde, Landscape; 73. J. v. Goyen,
Sea-piece ; "81. Jan Davidsz de Heem, Oysters and Rhine wine ; 84. School
of G. Dow, Schoolmaster ; 86. B. v. d. Heist (?), Man with a glass of wine ;
94. G. Lunders, Family portraits ; "104. M. Hondecoeter, Dog, cat, and game :
80. Old copy of Rembrandt, Descent from the Cross.

A glass-door in the West Room leads to the staircase, by which we
ascend to the Collection of Drawings and Engravings (founded in 1877 ;
5000 examples), containing drawings by Wilh. Schirmer (Carlsruhe), Ad.
Tidemand, <tc.

Farther to the N. in the Universitets-Gade, at the corner of the
Pilestrade, is the building of the Kunstforening , or Art Union
(adm. daily, except Sun., 12-2.30 ; 20 ».), adorned with medallion
portraits of celebrated artists, executed by Jacobsen. The ground-
floor is occupied by the Art Industrial Museum {Kumtindustri-
musaet; adm. daily, except Sat. , 12-2, free), founded in 1877, and
containing interesting specimens of Norwegian work of various
kinds, of ancient and modern date, as well as numerous electrotype
reproductions. The Chinese porcelain and lacquer-work also de-
serve mention.

On an eminence at the W. extremity of the town, in the beauti-
ful Slotspark, stands the Palace, or Slot (PI. A, 6), a large, plain
edifice with a classical portico in the centre. It was erected in
1825-48 as a royal residence at the comparatively small cost of
about 22, 7001., while the grounds in which it stands cost about
10,700t. more, these sums having been voted by the Storthing for
the purpose. The Interior is shown by the 'Vagtmester', or custo-
dian, who lives on the sunk floor of the S. wing (daily, 2-5 ; fee

10 Route 1. CHRISTIANIA. Palace

1-2 kr.). The principal Staircase is embellished with two reliefs in
marble : the one to the right, by Stephen Sinding, represents
Charles XIV. John laying the foundation-stone of the palace ; that
to the left, by M. Skeibrok, Oscar II. unveiling the statue of Charles
John. The Festsal is a handsome and lofty hall, adorned with Cor-
inthian columns ; the large Dining-room is decorated in the Pom-
peian style ; the walls of the Throne Room, Coursal or drawing-
room, and Audience Chamber are adorned with landscapes by Flinto.
The private apartments contain paintings and sculptures by Nor-
wegian artists (among them Tidemand's Village Catechising, and
O. SindingJs Battle of Swolder), most of which were presented to
the king and queen on their silver-wedding in 1882. The roof
commands an admirable *View of the town and environs.

In front of the palace rises an ^Equestrian Statue of Charles
XIV. John (Bernadotte), by Brynjulf Bergslien, inscribed with the
king's motto 'The people's love is my reward'.

The extensive quarter to the W. of the palace, named Homans-
by, consists mainly of villas and gardens. To the S.E., in the Ru-
selekvejen, is the so-called Victoria Terrace (warm baths), which
is particularly conspicuous when viewed from the sea. Below are
two rows of shops, one over the other, while above are three large
turreted dwelling-houses.

Christiania also possesses a number of educational, charitable,
and other institutions, which may be visited if time permits. Among
these may be mentioned the Kongelige Tegneskole, a School of
Design , with which the National Gallery (p. 8) is connected. It
was founded in 1818, and is supported by subsidies of 16,000 kr.
from government and 4800 kr. from the municipality. Deichmann's
Library, founded in 1780, and consisting of 13,000 vols., is open
to the public on week-days, except Thurs., 6-8 p.m. There are also
several very useful and meritorious scientific, literary, antiquarian,
and philanthropic societies, a list of which will be found in theNorges
Statskalender. The most important of the numerous charitable in-
stitutions are the new Rigshospital (PI. B 5), Nordal Bruns Gade,
and Oslo Hospital, in Oslo, which was founded by Christian III.
in 1538 and united in 1790 with a lunatic asylum (annual
revenue about 40,000 kr.). The Dampkjekken has been already
mentioned (p. 4).

Environs of Christiania.

a. Oscarshall.
A visit to Oscarshall on foot takes 21/2-3 hrs., including time to in-
spect the picture-gallery. It may also tie reached by carriage (fixed tariff),
by small boat from the Pipervik (1 kr., there and back 2 kr.), or by the small
steamboat plying from the Pipervik (PI. B, 7) at 7, 8, and 9 a.m. and hourly
from 1.30 to 9.30 p.m. to Fredrikshorg or Bygde (fare 20, 10 0.) in >/4 hr.,
and 5 min. walk more (always keeping to the right), or by railway (fares
40 or 200.) from the Vestbanegaard to Bygde (in 8 min., and 20 min. walk

Environs. OSCARSHALL. 1. Route. 11

more). — Application for admission is made to the gardener, Clausen,
who lives behind the chateau, to the left.

Leaving Christiania by the Drammensvei (PI. A, 7), which is
bordered by numerous villas and gardens, we soon reach (^Engl. M.
from the University) the Skarpsno steamboat - pier. Here we cross
by the ferry (in 6-8 min. ; fare 10 e>.) to the wooded peninsula of
Ladegaardse or Bygde, and then walk to the chateau in 7 min. more.

The chateau of *Oscarshall, which is conspicuously situated on
an eminence 80 ft. above the sea-level, surrounded by a pleasant
park, was erected in the 'English Gothic' style by Nebelong for
King Oscar in 1849-52, and adorned with paintings by eminent
Norwegian artists. It was sold by Charles XV. to the government,
but is still set apart for the use of the reigning monarch. It deserves
a visit not only for the collection of pictures it contains, but also
for the beautiful view it commands (adm. see above ; fee 1/%~1 kr.).

The Din:ng Room, on the ground-floor of the smaller separate build-
ing, is adorned with six imposing Norwegian landscapes by J. Frich (d
1858), the finest being the Ravnedjuv, the Romsdalshorn, and the Norangs-
fjord, above which are ten celebrated works by A. Tidemand (d. 1876), re-
presenting 'Norsk Bondeliv', or Norwegian peasant life. The Drawing
Room, on the ground-floor of the principal building, with its oak panel-
ling, is embellished with statues of Harald Haarfager, Olaf Tryggvason,
St. Olaf, and Sverre, in zinc, by Michelsen. A room on the 1st floor con-
tains nine basreliefs from Frithjof's Saga, in marble , by Borch, and four
fine landscapes by Glide (b. 1825) from the same Saga.

Several rooms on the 2nd floor contain works by Swedish and Nor-
wegian artists, wood-carvings, basket-work, etc. We now ascend by a
winding staircase of 28 steps to the flat roof of the chateau, beyond which
43 steps more lead us to the summit of the tower, where we enjoy a
charming *View of Christiania, its fjord, and environs.

About 1/4 M. beyond the chateau is a modern gateway in the
old Scandinavian taste, and four antique Norwegian buildings, re-
erected here within the last few years : viz. the Hovestue, a farm-
house from Hove in Telemarken, fitted up with the original furn-
iture, and presented by its former owner Ole Hove ; the *Church
of Ool in the Hallingdal (p. 84), an old Norwegian church con-
structed of boards and planks, and dating from the 12th or 13th
cent.; a Stabbur, or store-house, from Sendre Berdal in Telemarken,
with fine carved work; and a farm-house from the Gudbrandsdal
(attendant 25 e. for each pers.).

Refreshments at the Saterhytte on the Dronningbjerg, 3/4 M. to
the N., between Oscarshall and the Bygd». A monument has been
erected here to Count Wedel-Jarlsberg, an ardent advocate of the
union with Sweden in 1814.

b. Hove.de.
About 1 Engl. M. to the S. of Akershus lies the Hovedtf, an
island now belonging to the fortress (admission, see p. 5 ; boat there
and back 1 kr. 20 ».), on which are situated the ruins of a Cistercian
Monastery, founded by monks from Lincoln in 1147. In 1532,
after the Reformed faith had been embraced by Denmark, Mogens
Gyldenstjerne , the Danish commandant of Akershus, ordered the

1 2 Route 1 . FROGNERS^ETER. Environs

monastery to be plundered and destroyed. In 1846-47 the ruins
were cleared by the Norwegian Antiquarian Society.

c. The Ekeberg.

This excursion may be made by Tramwat from the Stor-Torv to Oslo
(comp. PI. C, D, E, 6, 5), by Steamer from the Jernbanebrygge (PI. D,
B, 7) to Kongshavn or Ormsund , or by Railway from the principal sta-
tion to Bcekkelaget (p. 276).

The Ekeberg, a wooded hill 400 ft. in height, to the 8. of Oslo,
commands several beautiful views. One of the finest points is a
rocky knoll, immediately to the left of the Liabro road (which, like
the railway, skirts the fjord) and 1 Engl. M. to the S. of the Oslo
tramway terminus. Near this point is the steamboat-station Kongs-
havn, not far from which is an interesting 'giant's cauldron' or cave,
named Kong Kristian II.'s Hul. — Another good point is reached
thus : beyond the tramway terminus follow the main road for 8 min.,
and then ascend the stony old road to the right for 12 minutes.
We then bend to the right, follow the new road for 4 min., and
proceed to the right, parallel with the slope next the town, past
the farm of Ekeberg (445 ft.), beyond which we follow a field-
road towards the wood on the N.W. slope of the Ekeberg. After
5 min. we cross a fence and proceed to the right for a few hundred
paces to a rocky platform affording a fine *View of the town and
harbour. We may now return by the same route to the farm of
Ekeberg, thence follow the top of the hill towards the S. (8 min.)
and then to the W. (10 min.) to the farm Jomfrubraaten, where
we descend to the right, and return by the (20 min.) above-men-
tioned Liabro road. Numerous fine views of the fjord to the left.

d. The Frogner soiter.

This excursion, if made on foot, takes 5-6 hrs. Carriage (3-31/:; hrs.)
with one horse (for 1-2 pers) 10 kr. , with two horses (3-4 pers.) 14 kr.,
charges lower in the forenoon. The best plan for a single visitor is to
hire a Skyds or carriole from Iversen, Grubbe-Gade 3. Cab to the Grind
(gate), where the wood and the ascent begin, 3 kr. (there and back 6 kr.).
The ascent from this point to the Steter takes 1 hr.

The route leads past the St. Hanshaugen (p. 6), beyond which
we observe the Vestre Akers Kirke on an eminence to the right.
Farther on, about 2i/2 M. from the Stor-Torv, we see the Gaustad
Lunatic Asylum (Y2 M. to the right), which accommodates upwards
of 300 patients. About 1/2 M- farther on we reach the beginning of
the narrow carriage-road, which ascends to the right, through
wood, to the (1 hr.) *Frognersseter (1380 ft.), the rustic summer
residence of the Heftye family, 5 Engl. M. to the N.W. of Chris-
tiania, with a balcony commanding a delightful view of Christiania,
its fjord, and environs. (Coffee, milk, etc., at one of the adjoining
cottages, another of which dates from the 16th century.) — While
the horses are resting, travellers usually ascend on foot to the
(25 min.) *Tryvandsheide (1710 ft.), a wooden scaffolding on the

EngLMiles

Metj'es

1:20.000

EV.Jl.Mili-

of Christiania. GREFSENBAD. 1. Route. 13

summit of which commands a still more extensive view, including
in clear weather some of the snow-clad mountains of Telemarken
(the Gausta, p. 23) to the W., and of Hallingdal (Norefjeld, p. 85)
to the N.W. — In returning we should follow the road to the S.,
traversing the suburb of Hegdehaugen.

e. Other Excursions.

If time permits, pleasant drives may also be taken to the Ud-
sigttaam on the Solhaug , on the Bogstad road (}/& hr. from the
Stor-Torv, or on foot !/2 hr.) ; to Bogstad, on the lake of the same
name (p. 14), 6 M. to the N.W. of Christiania, and thence to
the S. to Vakkere , on the Christiania Fjord , and to the adjacent
station of Bygde (p. 14; a highly enjoyable excursion); to the
Maridalsvand (490 ft.), a small lake which supplies Christiania
■with water, 5 Engl. M. to the N., with the ruined Marikirke at the
N. end ; to Grefsen-Bad (560 ft), a small water-cure establishment,
prettily situated about 2^ Engl. M. to the N.E. (omnibus from the
Stor-Torv in Christiania, several times daily) ; to Sarabraaten, a
summer residence, about 7 Engl. M. to the E. (4 M. from stat.
Bryn on the Kongsvinger line ; p. 118); and by the steamers of the
Bundefjord Dampskibsselskab (several times daily) to ^Ormeen,
Nasset, and other places on the Bundefjord (comp. the Communi-
cationer, No. 97), or by the steamers mentioned under Nos. 93 and
95 of the Communicationer to Sjurseen, Ormsund, and Malmeen.

Longer Excursions. Travellers whose visit to Norway is limited to
a few days only should endeavour to take one or other of the following
short tours before leaving the country.

(1) To Gjevik and Odnces, and back by the Randsfjord, Henefos, and
Krogkleven, in 3-4 days. — This round may be hurriedly accomplished in
2 days : On the 1st Day by the morning train from Christiania to Eidsvold ;
by steamboat to Gjuvik ; drive in the evening to Odnees (39 Kil. or
24 Engl. M.) in 47a hrs. ; on the 2nd Day by steamer from Odnses to
Randsfjord; thence by train, passing Htfnefos, to Christiania. — It is,
however, preferable to drive from Henefos to (18 Kil.) Sundvolden , visit
Krogkleven , drive to (23 Kil.) Sandviken , and return thence by train to
Christiania. — Or the traveller may prefer to make an excursion from
Christiania to Sundvolden and Hjzrnefos, as above, and to return by rail-
way, which may be easily done in two days. Comp. RR. 2, 13 b, 15.

(2) To the Rjukanfos via Kongsberg, and back, 4-5 days (RR. 2, 3). — It
is possible to accomplish this very interesting excursion in 3'/2 days : On
the 1st Day by early train from Christiania to Kongsberg ; drive to Tinnoset,
either via, Lysthus in the Hitterdal, or via Bolkesjo, in 9-10 hrs. ; 2nd Day,
by steamooat on Mon., Thurs., or Sat. to Strand; drive to Vaaer in 3 hrs.,
visit the Rjukanfos on foot in l'/a hr. (there and back) , and return to
Strand in 2'/2 hrs. more; 3rd Day, by steamer on Sun., Tues., or Wed.
to Tinnoset, and drive thence back to Kongsberg in 9-10 hrs. ; next morn-
ing take the train for Christiania.

(3) To Fredrikstad, the Sarpsfos , and Fredrikshald , and back, in
2-3 days (R. 33); or there and back by railway in Vfe day. — A steamer
leaves Christiania every morning for Fredrikstad and Fredrikshald , and
there are four weekly to Fredriksstad, where they unload, and Sarpsborg
on the Glommen, 9 Engl. M. farther (arr. in the evening). Having slept
at Sarpsborg, the traveller may next day inspect the fall of the Glommen,
take the train to Fredrikshald, and return thence to Christiania on the

1 I Route -J. SANDVIKEN. From Christiania

following day by steamboat In 7-9 hours. — Or the excursion may be
made in two days: (1) By train from Christiania to Sarpsborg; visit the
fall the same day ; (2) By steamer (4 times a week) from Sarpsborg to
Fredrikstad and Christiania. — By train the whole way there and back
(l'/z day), not recommended.

Travellers arriving at Christiania, or leaving it, by water will
find a description of the beautiful fjord in RR. 5, 34.

2. From Christiania to the Randsfjord by Drammen
and Hougsund.

142 Kil. (88 Eng. M.). Railway ('Vestbane') in 43/4-6 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 40,
4 kr. 60 0.), two trains daily ; to Drammen express in l'/2 hr. (fares 2 kr.
95 0., 2kr.j, ordinary train in 2'/4 hrs. (fares 2 kr. 40, 1 kr. 60 0.), four
trains daily. The rails on this narrow-gauge line are only 3'/2 ft. apart.
The carriages are of two classes only, corresponding to the second and
third in most other countries. — Finest views to the left.

The railway traverses beautiful scenery , particularly between
K»ken and Drammen and between Hougsund and Hcnefos. The train
passes a number of pleasant country-houses , villages , and farms,
interspersed with manufactories. To the left lies the beautiful
Fjord of Christiania, while to the right is the peninsula of Bygdtf,
with the white chateau of OscaTshall (p. 11) and numerous villas.

3 Kil. Bygde , on the bay of Frognerkilen , is the station for
Bygd» and Osearshall (20 min. ; see p. 10). Charming scenery.
About IV2 Engl. M. distant is Kastelbakken , where snow-shoe
races ('Skirend' ; 'Skier', snow-shoes) take place in winter. —
0 Kil. Lysaker, at the mouth of the Serkedalselv , descending from
the Bogstad-Vand (445 ft.), to which a beautiful route (4 M.) leads
to the N. From the E. side of this lake a steep path ascends to the
Frosnersseter (p. 12).

To the right rises a range of porphyry hills, including the Kols-
aas (1255 ft. ; view similar to that from the Frognersaeter), the
Skougumsaas, and others. The Silurian strata are here intersected
by dykes of greenstone, the most interesting of which is seen near
(10 Kil.) Hevik, where it forms a lofty wall, 2 ft. in thickness, in
the midst of the disintegrated slate. Farther on the train skirts
the Enger-Vand, also to the right, and reaches —

14 Kil. Sandviken (Harreschou, well spoken of; skyds-station,
near the railway-station, with telephone to Christiania), a beauti-
fully situated village, the best starting-point for a visit to Krog-
kleven (see below).

Excursion to Krogkleven. — The road from Sandviken to
Sundvolden and Hanefos diverges to the right from that to Dram-
men and ascends gradually, with the Kolsaas (see above) rising to
the right. The highest point is 1070 ft. above the sea. It passes
through the Krogskog and reaches the first station —

16 Kil. (pay for 22 Kil. in this direction) Humledal, situated
high above the picturesque Holsfjord, an arm of the Tyrifjord

to Drammen. KROGKLEVEN. 2. Route. 15

(230 ft.); striking view just below the station. — We then de-
scend by the beautiful 'Svanggtrands-Ve? (p. 16) to the fjord, and
follow its bank to the N. to —

13 Kil. (pay for 15 Kil. in the opposite direction) Sundvolden
(*Jnn, B. 1 kr., B. 60, S. 60, D. 1 kr. 60 ». ; not a skyds-station,
but carriages for hire). From this point we ascend by a rough path
(advisably in the morning, if the weather is not clear) to (IV2 hr.)
*Krogkleven. a rocky height {Kiev, 'cliff'), 1000 ft. above the
inn, on the old road to Christiania (ascent through a romantic
gorge, on foot or on horseback; horse 2 kr. 40 0.). We first come
to the (8/4 hr.) Klevstue (1245 ft.), a poor inn, 5 min. below which,
to the N.W., is Dronningens Vdsigt (the Queen's View). Higher
up (along the track to the W., following the white crosses on the
trees) is the (25-30 min.) *Kongen$ Vdsigt (the King's View;
1455 ft. above the sea, 1240 ft. above the fjord), the finer point of
the two. The prospect from this point in clear weather is superb,
embracing the Tyrifjord with its islands, the district of Ringerike,
the Jonsknut near Kongsberg (p. 20), the Norefjeld to the N.W.,
and the Gausta (p. 23) and other snow-mountains to the W. in the
distance. Even the Hallingskarven (p. 86) in the Upper Halling-
dal is said to be visible in clear weather.

The "View from the Gyrihaug (2215 ft.; 4 M. to the N.E. of Sundvol-
den) is said to be even finer, but its ascent is attended with more diffi-
culty. It is generally made direct from Christiania via, Bogs tad (p. 13)
and the Serkedal, where fair quarters may be found at Lyse. The descent
may be made through a narrow ravine to Sundvolden. — According to
the legend the numerous islands in the Steensfjord are said to be stones
once thrown by a giantess ('Gygr1 or'Gyvr') of the Gyrihaug for the purpose
of destroying the church of Steen (see below), which missiles, however,
including even one of her own legs, all came short of their aim and fell
into the lake. Like the battle of the giants against Odin and Thor in
the Edda, this legend is symbolical of the fruitless wrath of the powers
of nature against the advance of human culture.

The road to Henefos crosses the Krogsund, which connects the
Tyrifjord with the Steensfjord.

The next station, 16 Kil. from Humledal and 3 Kil. from Sund-
volden, is Vik (travellers in the reverse direction may drive on to
Sundvolden without change of horses), about lfo hr. beyond which,
to the right, are the ruined church of Steen and (a little farther
on) the tumulus of King Halfdan the Black (d. 860). After an-
other 1/4 hr. the road passes Norderhovs Kirke (375 ft.), in which
Anna KolbjOTnsdatter is interred. She was the wife of the pastor
of the place, and in 1716, while her husband was ill, succeeded
by a stratagem in betraying 600 of the Swedish invaders into the
hands of her countrymen.

11 Kil. Henefos, see p. 18.

The train now ascends through cuttings in the rock and two
short tunnels to (15 Kil.) Slcebende, where horse-races are held in
June, and to (20 Kil.) Hvalstad, whence the picturesque Skougums-

1 6 Route 2. DRAMMEN. From Christiania

aas (1130 ft.) to the W. may be ascended. It then crosses a wooden
viaduct, 90 ft. high, and reaches —

23 Kil. Asker (340 ft.), from which the Vardekolle (1140 ft.), a
massive hill of granite to the S.W., may he ascended for the sake
of the view.

The train skirts the foot of the Vardekolle and passes the small
lakes Bondivand (325 ft. ; the property of an English ice-export-
ing company) and Gjellumvand (315 ft). At the S. end of the
latter is (29 Kil.) Hegyedal, beyond which we pass the base of the
barren Brejmaas.

Beyond (34 Kil.) Reken (440 ft.) the train turns abruptly to the
W., traversing an uninteresting region and passing through numer-
ous cuttings ; but immediately beyond a tunnel, 240 yds. long, which
penetrates the hilly barrier, a most picturesque and imposing * View,
of the Drammens-Fjord , the town of Drammen , and the fertile
valley of the Lier is suddenly disclosed to the left, rivalling the
famous views from Chexbres above Vevey or from Optschina above
Trieste. The road from R»ken to Drammen descends at once to the
fjord, while the railway passes through another tunnel and de-
scribes a long curve towards the N., descending gradually to the
valley of Lier and the (46 Kil.) station of that name.

From JLier a pleasant route, with 'fast' skyds-stations, leads to the
N., on the E. side of the valley, past the Engerfjeld, to the Holsfjord, the
S. branch of the Tyrifjord (p. 14). 8 Kil. Enger. The road , now called
* Svangstrands-Veien, and famed for its picturesque beauty, next ascends
the Burderaas and skirts the Holsfjord, at a giddv height above it, to
(13 Kil.) Mtmledal (p. 14).

At Lier the train turns towards the S., traversing a fertile
tract, and next stops at (51 Kil.) Bragere, the E. end of Drammen
(Bragernces) ; it then crosses the Drammens-Elv, and the island of
Mellcrholm or 'Holmeri with its timber-yards , to the Tangen and
Stremse quarters, on the S. bank of the river, and reaches the
principal station of (53 Kil.) Drammen, situated at the W. end of
Stramse, close to the bridge across the Drammens-Elv. This is the
junction of the lines to Hougsund (carriages changed ; p. 18) and
to Laurvik and Skien (p. 31).

Drammen. — In Stremse: "Central Hotel, opposite the station, en-
trance in a side-street, with restaurant, B. 80 0., D. 2 kr., A. 40 0. ; Bri-
tannia, in the Frem-Gade, leading E. to Tangen. — In Bragemass: "Hotel
Kong Carl, in the Stor-Gade, near the market-place. — "Railway Restau-
rant (cold viands only).

Cab with one horse , for 1 person 40 0. per drive ; with two horses
for 2 persons 60 0. — Omnibus from Bragernses-Torv to Tangen.

Sommerfryd-Badeanslalt , on the E. side of Bragernses, at the end of
Erik-B0rresens-Gaden, near the fire-engine station; River Baths (Streimbad)
at Bragernaea.

British Vice-Consul, Mr. Karl Gram.

Steamboats to Holmestrand, Horten, and Moss daily; to T(<nsberg
and Sandefjord once weekly; to Liverpool once monthly.

Drammen, with 20,000 inhab., situated on both banks of the
Drammenselv, consists of Bragernre* on the N. bank (rebuilt after

to the Bandsfjord. DRAMMEN. 2. Route. 1 7

its almost total destruction by Are in 1866), 8trem.se on the S. side,
and Tangen to the S.E., which originally formed three distinct
communities. The situation of Drammen on the estuary of the river,
between hills of considerable height, is picturesque, and not with-
out pretensions to grandeur. The pretty fjord extends down to
Holmestrand (p. 31). The trade of the place is very considerable,
consisting chiefly in the export of timber (annual value over
5,000,000 kr.), and of a quantity of zinc and nickel from Skouger
and Ringerike. The commercial fleet of Drammen is one of the
largest in Norway, vying in importance with those of Christiania
and Arendal. Vessels of large tonnage can load and discharge at
the stone quays of Bragemses.

The railway-station lies at the S. end of a Timber Bridge, cross-
ing the Drammenselv and connecting Streinsfl and Bragern«s. The
bridge affords a pleasant promenade in hot weather, on account
of the cool breezes always blowing up or down the valley. Charm-
ing prospect in every direction ; the Brandposten (see below),
with its two flagstaffs, is conspicuous on the hillside to the right.

The bridge leads from the station to the Bragernas-Torv, the
chief market-place, in which, to the right, are the Exchange (with
the Post and Telegraph Offices, entrance in the Stor-Gade), and
facing us the Baadhus and Byret (court-house) , with the inscrip-
tion Bet og Sandhed ('justice and truth'). Ascending hence in a
straight direction, between the two small towers of the Kirke-Gade,
we soon reach the conspicuous Bragben^bs Church , a handsome
Gothic brick edifice by Nordgren, built after the fire of 1866, and
consecrated in 1871. The interior is embellished with a Resur-
rection by Tidemand (d. 1876), and an *Angel over the font by
Borch. (The 'Kirketjener', or sacristan, lives in the one-storied
white wooden house opposite the sacristy, to the left ; fee ]/2-l kr.)

Proceeding to the E. from Bragernss church, we reach (12-
15 min.) the *Brandposten, one of the finest points of view near
Drammen, affording an extensive prospect of Tangen, Strems», and
Bragernses, of 'Holmen' (p. 16), the valley of the Drammenselv, and
the fjord. The veranda of the watchman's house is always acces-
sible. Cannons are fired here when a fire is observed in the town.

The road ascends hence to the (35-40 min.) Klopkjoern (755 ft.),
a sequestered lake in the midst of a wood, whence the town derives
its water-supply. To the right is a small house where refreshments
are sold. A footpath (difficult at one point) ascends to the right in
5 min. to Prinds Oscars Udsigt, which affords a good survey of the
Lierdal and the fjord.

A promenade called the 'Oscarsstien' connects the Klopkja?rn
with the beautiful points of view on the slopes of the *Bragern^es-
aas, which may also be reached direct in 35-40 min. by a zigzag
road, provided with numerous benches ('Aibumstien'). The views
embrace the town and fjord, and the valley up to Hougsund and

Baedkkek's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. '2

18 Route 2. HOUGSUND.

Kongsberg. The finest points, the Toppen, Furulund, and *Brei-
dablik, are marked on the plan. The last affords the best view up
the valley, seen to most advantage at sunset.

The Rail-way to Hougsund (Henefos, Kongsberg) ascends the
broad valley of the Drammenselv. The best views are to the right.
56 Kil. OuUkogen; 64Kil. Mjendalen.

70 Kil. Hougsund (*Rail. Restaurant,- Mr. J. Jacobsen), the
junction of the Randsfjord and Kongsberg lines. To the W. rises
the Jonsknut (2952 ft. ; p. 20). In the vicinity is the Hellefos,
a fall of the Drammenselv , where large numbers of salmon are
caught. — Passengers for Kongsberg change carriages here (see
p. 19).

The Randsfjord train continues to ascend the Drammenselv,
which forms a number of picturesque waterfalls and cataracts, and
we enjoy a succession of beautiful views on both sides. The river
is crossed several times. — 75 Kil. Burud. Beyond (80 Kil.)
Skotselven the train crosses the Drammens-Elv, which here forms
the Deviksfos, and next stops at (86 Kil.) Aamot, on the left bank
of the river. On the opposite bank are seen the waterfall of the
Simoct, a tributary of the Drammens-Elv , and the Nykirke. The
scenery at this point is remarkably fine. A little farther on is the
influx of the Snarums-Elv, descending from Lake Krederen and the
Hallingdal. Recrossing to the right bank, the train next stops at
(92 Kil.) Ojethus, near the Oravfos. A charming walk may be taken
hence to the Hirsdal with the St. Olafsgryder, large giants' cauldrons.

96 Kil. Vikersund, the junction of a branch-line to Lake Kre-
deren (p. 82), situated at the point where the Drammenselv issues
from the Tyrifjord. A bridge crosses the river here to the church of
Heggen, from which a road leads along the S. bank of the Tyrifjord
to the Holsfjord, the S.E. arm of the lake (p. 14).

A pleasant drive may be taken from Vikersund (carriages at the station,
or at the neighbouring posting-station Krona) to (4 Kil.) St. Olafs-Bad,
one of the most frequented watering-places in Norway, with a chalybeate
spring, mud-baths, inhaling apparatus, and other appliances. The beau-
tiful forests in the environs, the picturesque views of Ringerike and the
Tyrifjord, and the Kaggefos and other falls of the Snarumselv are among
the chief attractions of the place. This district is moreover the scene
uf many traditions connected with St. Olaf. About 5 Kil. to the W. are the
Cobalt Mines of Modum, worked by a German company, and the Haugtfos.

Beyond Vikersund the train skirts the W. bank of the Tyri-
fjord, of which it affords beautiful views to the right. The wooded
hills on the opposite bank are the Krogskog (with the Krogklev,
p. 15) and the Gyrihaug (p. 15). 105 Kil. Nakkerud ; 111 Kil. Skja-r-
dalen (steamer to Gomnas and Sundvolden, see p. 15); 119 Kil.
Ask. The train now quits the Tyrifjord.

124 Kil. Homefos (*Glatved's Hotel, with a garden, pleasantly
situated in the N. part of the town; Jernbane Hotel, near the
station, good view, well spoken of; Skyds-Station, in the S. part of
the town, near the church), a small town with 1300 inhab. ravaged

&eograplL AnFtalt votv

*(KsBerTajidl

IKlripnT.nnPMmiiil I '

H0NEFOS. 2. Route. 10

by a serious conflagration in 1878, lies at the confluence of the
Bagna or Aadalselv, which descends from Lake Spirillen, and the
Randselv, coming from the Randsfjord. The river formed by them
is called the Storelv , and empties itself into the Tyrifjord,
whence it afterwards emerges under the name of Drammenselv
(p. 16). The Bsegna-Elv, just before its junction with the Randselv,
forms two waterfalls, of which that to the N. is rather a huge ca-
taract, and which are together known as the *H#nefos. Though
of no great height, these falls are quite worth seeing (at least
for travellers who have not yet visited the large falls in Tele-
marken or Hardanger), especially during the 'Flomtid' or 'Flaum-
tid' (flood time) in May and June, when the volume of water is
very imposing. A fine view of the falls and the environs is afforded
both from the bridge that crosses the rivers above the town, and
from the two within the town close to the falls. As is so often
the case in Norway , a number of flour-mills and saw-mills are
congregated here for the sake of the motive power afforded by
the falls. A channel on the left bank of the N. fall conveys the
timber to the mills with immense velocity. A road on the left
(E.) bank of the Aadalselv leads in 1 hr. to the Hofsfos, another
line fall, close to the railway to Heen.

The "Eingkollen (2265 ft.), 5 M. to the E. of Hianefos, is very beautiful.
To reach it we drive (ca. 1 hr.) to Gjermundbo and ascend thence with a
guide in l'/z hr.

From Htfnefos to (14 Kil.) Sundvolden, from which we ascend Krog-
kleven, see p. 15; carrioles may be ordered at the hotel.

131 Kil. Heen ( Heen' s Hotel; Skovheim) is a posting station. —
To Lake Spirillen, see pp. 88, 89.

Turning suddenly to the E., the train skirts the Hejaas (1490 ft.)
and the Askelihoug (1410 ft.), traverses a wooded district thinly
peopled, and finally stops at —

142 Kil. (88 Engl. M.) Randsfjord Station (*Innj, see p. 91.

3. From (Christiania) Hougsund to Kongsberg and
the Rjukanfos.

From Hougsund to Kongsberg, 28 Kil. (17 Engl. SI.), Railway in l'/s hr.
(fares 2kr. 05, 1 kr. 15 0.). — From Kongsberg to Tinoset, 50 or 60 Kil.
according to route (31 or 37>/o M.), by Carriage in 10 hrs., including
stoppages (or by carriage only to Bolkesjsr, 4-4'/2 hrs., then by boat across
the Folsj0, and walk to Tinoset, 5 hrs.). — From Tinoset to Strand, 30 Kil.
(18'/2 Engl. M.), Steamboat in summer daily except Sun. in 23/4 hrs. (2 kr.),
starting at 11 a. m. (in the reverse direction about 8 a. m.). — From Strand
to the Rjukanfos, Deive of 3 hrs. to (22 Kil.; 14 M.) Vaaer and Walk
thence of 3/« hr.

From Christiania to Hougsund, see pp. 14-18. The railway to
Kongsberg (finest views on the left) next stops at —

5 Kil. Vestfossen, with several manufactories, near the beauti-
ful Ekersje or Fiskumvand (60 ft.), bounded by lofty mountains
on the E. side; 11 Kil. Darbo; 15 Kil. Krekling, where the slate-

O *

20 Routed. KONGSBERG. From Hougsund

formation predominates. Farther on we obtain a view of the moun-
tains towards the S. At (22 Kil.) Skollenborg sandstone makes its
appearance and the country becomes sterile. The Labrofos (p. 21)
lies 1 Engl. M. to the S. of Skollenborg. To the left is the Skrims-
fjeld (see below). The train approaches the Laagen, which descends
from the Numedal and forms a waterfall, and stops at —

28 Kil. Kongsberg. — Hotels. Victoria, at some distance from the
station, in the W. part of the town, on the right bank, R. & L. 2, A.
ll-t kr., B. 80 0.; Britannia, on the left bank, near the station, well
spoken of; Skandinavie, also near the station. All three hotels are often
crowded in summer.

Carriages to Tinoset: Carriole for 1 pers. 15, there and back 23 kr.
46 0. ; carriage with 2 horses for 2 pers. 30 or 49 kr. 68 0., for 3 pers.
36 or 62'/2 kr. Those who detain the carriage in Tinoset for more than
one night pay 4 kr. extra per horse for each day. To Bolkesje or Hitterdal,
carriole 8 kr. 12, carriage with 2 horses for 2 pers. 12 kr. 96, for 3 pers.
16 kr. 20 0.

Kongsberg (490 ft.) , an uninviting but not unpicturesque
town , situated on the Laagen or Laugen , in the S. part of the
Numedal (p. 24), contains 4560 inhab. (formerly twice as
many), who are almost all supported by the neighbouring silver-
mines. Most of the houses are timber-built, but the large Church
and the Baadhus are substantial stone edifices. The former was
erected in the middle of last century, when the population of the
town was about double the present number. The town owes its
origin to the Silver Mines in the vicinity, which are said to have
been discovered by goat-herds, and was founded in 1624 in the reign
of Christian IV. In the town itself are situated the Smeltehytte, or
smelting-works, where specimens of the ore may be purchased, the
Mynt (mint), and a government Vaabenfabrik (weapon-factory), the
last of which is near the Hammerfos. The rapid Laagen is crossed by
two bridges. A monument to Christian IV. was erected here in 1883.

The Silver Mines of Kongsberg, the property of the government,
now yielding an annual profit of about 12,500L, were discovered early in
the 17th cent, and have been worked with varying success. Of more than
a hundred mines opened since the first discovery of the ore , four only
are now of anv importance. The principal of these is Kongens-Grube,
about 6 Kil. to the W.S.W. of the town, which is nearly 2000 ft. in depth,
and a little to the N. of this mine are the 'Gottes-Hiilfe\ the Armen-Grube,
and the 'Haus-Sachsen'' mines. Besides the perpendicular shafts descending
to these mines , there are two level shafts or adits , the Fredriks-Slollen
and the Christians-Slollen, entering them from the hill-side, the latter being
300 ft. below the other and connecting all the mines, the aggregate length
of which is upwards of 3 Engl. M. — Permission to visit the mines is obtained
at the offices in the market-place, but the expedition is a laborious one,
which hardly repays the fatigue (guide 2 kr.). The veins of native silver
which the mines contain are mingled with sulphuret of silver and copper
pyrites, occurring generally in layers of calcareous spar. Beautiful argen-
tiferous crystals are also frequently found. The finest yet discovered is
now in the University Museum of Natural History at Copenhagen.

The Jonsknut (2950 ft.), which rises a short distance beyond the Gottes-
Hiilfe and Haus-Sachsen mines, commands an admirable view of the Gausta
and other mountains of Telemarken to the W. Near the Jonsknut rises
the Skrims/jeld (2946 ft.), 10 Engl. M. to the si. of the town, and also
commanding a beautiful view.

to the Rjukanfos. BOLKESJ0. 3. Route. 21

About 2'/2 M. to the S.E. of the town the Laagen forma a very fine
waterfall called the Labrofos, 140 ft. in height, which is well worthy of
a visit. — Another fine fall of the same river is the Hvitingfos, 20 Kil.
(12 M.) from Kongsberg , on the Laurvik road.

From Kongsberg to Tikoset there are two routes, the shorter
and more picturesque but rougher road via Bolkesje, and the high-
road via, Hitterdal. The former route is generally preferred in
going , the latter in returning. (An account of the ' Rodestolper '
passed en route will be found at p. 122; numerous snow-ploughs.)

a. Via Bolkbsj0. We first follow the road ascending the
Numedal on the right bank of the Laagen for 4 Kil. (see p. 25),
and then turn to the left into the Jondal and ascend through the
pines on the right bank of the Jondals-Elv . Farther on we cross
to the left bank. After about 4 hrs. (including a short halt for
rest) we reach the culminating point of the route (1825 ft.), -where
a magnificent view of the mountains of Telemarken is suddenly
unfolded. The most conspicuous heights are the Lifjeld (p. 27) and
the Oausta (p. 23), which appears from this point in the form of a
blunted cone. A little before Bolkesje, a softer charm is added to
the landscape by the presence of two lakes in the foreground, the
Bolkesje (1030 ft.) and the greater FoUje (710 ft.).

28 Kil. (from Kongsberg) Bolkesj* (1285 ft. ; Hotel and Sa-
natorium, commanding a fine view) — [Walkers may cross the
Bolkesje and Folsje by boat (traversing the isthmus between these
lakes on foot) toVik(!/2 hr.) and thence walk to(3!/2hrs.)Tinoset.]

Beyond Bolkesje the road leads through wood, high up on the
N.W. bank of the Folsje, commanding several views of the Blei-
fjeld (4490ft.) to the right. At the W. end of the lake lie the
houses of Vik, about l1/^ hr.'s drive from Bolkesje. The Tinn-Elv
soon comes into view on the left ; the road descends and crosses
the stream near the church of Grandsherred. About 5 min. later
(l'/4 hr.'s drive from Vik) we reach the high-road described be-
low, on which a drive of 35 min. to the N. brings us to Tinoset.

b. Via Hitterdal. The road at first runs towards the S., but
after 4 Kil. turns to the W. into the valley of the Kobberberg-Elv .
To the right rises the Jonsknut (p. 20). The road then gradually
ascends the wooded Medheia and after 2-2i/2 hours reaches Jern-
gruben (tolerable inn ; 1350 ft.), where the horses are usually rested
for an hour. Beyond Jerngruben the road continues to ascend for
some distance, and then traverses the plateau (1450 ft.) in numerous
undulations. On emerging from the forest it begins to descend
into the Hitterdal, commanding a beautiful view; in front the
mountains of Telemarken, the Himingen (3450 ft. ; p. 27) and the
Haksfjeld, to the left the Hitterdalsvand. Our road unites with
that coming from Skien and skirting the E. bank of the Hitterdals-
vand (p. 34).

28 Kil. (pay for 36) Notodden Q* Hotel Furulieim, kept by J. G.
Thomassen, R. iy4-2kr., D. 2 kr., B. 80 0. ; horses obtainable;

22 Route 3. HITTERDAL. From Hougsund

Victoria , with the skyds-station , near the pier of the Hitterdal
steamers, p. 34, well spoken of), near the N. end of the Hitterdals-
vand. The drive from Kongsberg to Notodden takes ilfe hrs., that
in the reverse direction at least frfe hrs. The horses are rested here
2 hrs., during which the traveller should dine.

The road now crosses the Tinn-Elv by a bridge which affords a
view of the*Tinnfos, a beautiful waterfall formed by the river here.

The best point of view is the mill, close to the fall. The road,
which is here almost level, then passes some unimportant inns
and the old skyds-station of Lysthus. About 6 Kil. from Notodden,
to the right, lies the —

*Hitterdals Kirke, a grotesque -looking timber -built church,
resembling the ancient church of Borgund (p. 97), and one of
the greatest architectural curiosities of Norway. The style of archi-
tecture and general character of the ornamentation of the singular
Norwegian 'stavekirker' relegate them to the 12th cent., the capi-
tals of the pillars and the mouldings almost exactly corresponding,
so far as the difference of material allows, to the details of Anglo-
Norman architecture of the same period (Fergusson). They are con-
structed, like block-houses, oflogs laid horizontally above each other
and kept in position by strong corner-posts. The walls are sur-
mounted by a lofty roof, the artistic construction of which was ori-
ginally left open to view in the interior, though now, as in this case,
often concealed by the interposition of a plain ceiling. The quadran-
gular nave is adjoined by a semicircular choir. Round the exterior
of the building Tuns a low arcade (Lop), probably added as a pro-
tection against snow and cold ; the lower part is closed, while the
upper part is open and supported by small columns. Above the
Toof of this arcade appear the windows of the aisles, over which
rises the nave, surmounted by a square tower with a slender spire.
The windows of the aisle are an innovation, the original design
having only small air-holes in their place. The capitals of the
pillars, the doors and door-frames, and other suitable parts of the
edifice are embellished with elaborate and fantastic carvings , re-
presenting entwined dragons, intermixed with foliage and figures.
The projections from the ridges of the roof and gables are also
carved in grotesque forms. The church has suffered greatly from
an unskilful restoration made in 1850. The key (Neglen) is obtain-
ed in the parsonage, opposite the entrance to the church.

The road from Hitterdal to Tinnoset (26 Kil.) is tolerably level
the whole way. The gaards of Bamle and Kaasa are passed. To
the left the Himingen and the Haeksfjeld long remain conspicuous.
To the right rises the Kj0ivingfjeld(226b ft.), which our road skirts
towards the N., while the road to Landsvark (p. 27) diverges to the
left. We now ascend the course of the 0rvcella, a small river which
has forced its way through huge masses of debris, overgrown with
pines and firs. The road crosses the river several times. At the

to the Rjukanfos. STRAND. 3. Route. 23

'Plads' Bakken, 21 Kil. from Notodden, the horses are rested. The
road from Grandsherred and Bolkesje (p. 21) joins ours on the
right, 5 Kil. farther on. After 5 Kil. more we reach —

32 Kil. (from Notodden; a drive of about 5 hrs.) Tinnoset
[Kaali's Inn, close to the steamboat-pier, tolerable, often full,
R. 1 kr. 20, S. 1 kr. 20 ».), a group of scattered houses at the S.
end of the Tinnsj* (615 ft.), a lake about 22 Engl. M. long and
I-IY2 M. in width, enclosed by barren and precipitous mountains.
A small screw - steamboat ('Gausta') plies on the lake daily (see
p. 19) between Tinnoset and Sigurdsrud at the N. end. Fare 2 kr. ;
hire of the whole steamer for an excursion 36 kr. for 9 pers., each
additional person 2 kr. more. Small boat to Strand 13 kr. 60 0.
(not recommended).

TheTinnsj0 on the whole resembles the Spirillen, but the banks
arc even lower then those of that lake. The steamer calls at two
intermediate stations, Sanden (to the left) and Hovin (to the right).
The finest point in the scenery is the Haakenasfjeld , which the
steamer skirts. Soon after, 23/4hrs. after leaving Tinnoset, we reach —

Strand (*Fagerstrand'8 Hotel, at the pier, R. l1/^ D.2, S. 1 kr. ,
15. 80 0. ; 0rncBS, new, well spoken of; Framnas, 2 min. from the
pier, only takes travellers when the others are full), near the church
of Mai, at the mouth of the Maan-Elv. Carriole for 1 pers. to
Vaaer 3 kr. 60, there and back 5 kr. 40 e. • stolkjserre for 2 pers.

5 kr. 40, 8 kr. 10 0. ; one-horse carr. there and back, 2 pers. 10,
3 pers. 12 kr. ; two-horse carr. for 2, 3, or 4 pers. 12, 14, 16 kr. ;
if kept overnight, 2 kr. extra.

The good, and for the first 18 Kil. tolerably level, road ascends th e
beautiful Vestfjord-Dal, on the left bank of the Maan-Elv. To the
right opens the Haakedal, from the sides of which several water-
falls precipitate themselves into the valley below. The long and
imposing ridge of the Gausta, with its snow-furrows, becomes
visible to the left soon after leaving Strand. In 1 hr. we reach
(9 Kil.) Nyland (small *Inn ; carriages dear), the station for the as-
cent of the Gausta (6180 ft.; view disappointing), the highest
mountain in S. Norway (ascent 6, descent 4 hrs. ; guide 6 kr. ; the
night may be spent at the saeter of Svineroi, 3 hrs. from Nyland).

We pass (3 Kil.) the straggling village of Dale (no inn), at the
foot of the Gausta. (From Dale to Landsvserk, see p. 27.) About

6 Kil. farther on the ascent becomes steeper. Looking back , we
observe the Gausta presenting the appearance of a single sharp
cone. Skirting the superb valley on the left, we at length reach
(5 Kil.) Vaaer, a poor mountain hamlet (no inn), 22 Kil. from Strand
(a drive of 3-3i/2hrs.), where we alight. A steep and at places fati-
guing footpath (guide unnecessary) ascends hence to (^/thr.^Krokan
(2300ft.; *Inn of the Turistforening, small and often full, R. lkr.
60 0., S. 2, B. 1 kr. 20), about 250 paces beyond which is the
point where the magnificent *Kjukanfos ('reeking' or 'foaming

24 Route 3. RJUKANFOS. From Kongsberg

fall) bursts upon the view. This waterfall, formed by the large
Maan-Elv, is one of the finest in Europe and is about 800 ft. in
height. The scene is stupendous in the early summer , when the
river is swollen with melted snow. The adjuncts of the fall are
also remarkably picturesque. The point of view which we have
reached is about 500 yds. from the fall, but it is scarcely advisable
to attempt a nearer approach. Some of the projecting rocks are not
very secure. A well-defined path (somewhat slippery in wet
weather) , which the traveller should not quit, leads to the valley
(10 min.), affording a view of the fall from below.

Feom the Rjckanfos to the Haedangee Fjord. There are two
practicable but somewhat trying routes for pedestrians and riders from
the Rjukanfos to the Hardanger Fjord, one to Odde, and one to Eidfjord;
the former is the easier. Guide at Krokan (bargain desirable).

To Odde , 4-5 days. 1st Day. From Krokan to Holvik ("Inn), on the
Mjesvand (2945 ft.), a walk or ride of 4 hrs. by a fatiguing path, on
which snow sometimes lies early in the season. To the W. are the huge
Uaulandsfjeld (5175 ft.) and the Theseggen. The dreary-looking Mjesvand,
22 Engl. M. long, and l-2'/2 M. broad, is then crossed by boat, passing
Mjesslranden, to (3V'2 hrs.) the W. bank, whence a path, very rough
and marshy at places, leads across the Bitdalselv , in 6 hrs. to Rauland
(Inn, tolerable), on the N. bank of the Totakvand (2230 ft.), or to Berge
(Inn, fair), also on the lake, a little farther on. [A rough and marshy
ridle-path leads direct from Holvik to Berge in 7-8 hrs. ; or we may row
rom Holvik to Erlandsgaard in 1 hr., walk to Gibeen in 2 hrs., cross the
S. arm of the Mjjjsvand in 1/i hr., and walk to Berge, passing the fine
aard of Gjuveland, in 5 hrs.] — 2nd Day. Row from Rauland or from
liergc to Kosthveit (slow station) in 1 hr. , and drive or ride thence in
2V-2 hrs. by a rough road to (14 Kil.) Jamsgaard i Vinje, and thence to
(4 Kil.) Heggeslel, Bolten, and Eaukell (see p. 29). [We may also row
from Berge or Kauland to Brunelid in 2 hrs., then ascend through the
steep Grungedalsbygd to Nylsend (p. 28) in S^hrs., and go on thence to
Haukeli.] From Haukeli to Odde (two days), see p. 30.

To the V0eingsfos and Eidfjokd , 3-4 days , for pedestrians only.
1st Day. From Krokan to Holvik (see above) in 4 hrs.; row thence in
3'/a brs. to Mjesstrand, and in 3'/2-4 hrs. more to the upper end of the
lake; walk in '/a hr. to Mogen (poor quarters). — 2nd Day (with guide to
Eidfjord , 16 kr.). The path ascends towards the N.W. to the (6 Kil.)
Gjuvije, a lake abounding in fish, passes several small tarns on the
left, and crosses (9 Kil.) the Gjuvaa or Skvcetta. It next passes three
mountain-lakes, where the soil is boggy and the scenery very desolate.
The Fjeldsjs remains to the left, the Lakensje and the large Normands-
laagen (4155 ft.) to the right. Lastly we cross the Bessaelv, a consid-
erable stream which falls into the Normandslaagen, and here, after a
laborious walk of 12-13 hrs., we spend the night in the Bessabu, a small
stone hut which affords no accommodation beyond shelter. (It is, however,
preferable to spend the night in the fisherman's hut of Ole Vik of Har-
danger, reached before the Bessabu.) — 3rd Day. Our route continues to
traverse the wild and bleak mountain scenery" of the Hardanger Vidda,
occasionally crossing snow, to (25 Kil.) Bwrrastelen , a walk of 5-6 hrs.,
whence a good path leads in 2 hrs. to the (9 Kil.) Veringsfos, near which
is the farmhouse of Hel, where if necessary the night may be spent.
From H0l to Eidfjord 3Vz-4hrs.

From Kongsberg to the Hardanger Fjord through the Numedal.

This excursion takes 4-5 days. Of the three great routes (comp. pp.
81, 88) leading from E. Norway across the Fjeld to W. Norway, this
is the least attractive. Fine scenery, however, is not altogether lacking,

to the Hardanger fjord. SKJ0NNE. 3. Route. 25

while the inhabitants have retained more of their primitive characteristics
than those of Valders or the Hallingdal, and the interest of their country
is enhanced by numerous traditions. A carriage-road with fast stations
leads through the Humedal to Brdslerud (123 Kil. or 75 Engl. MO, from
which driving is also practicable to Flolen, 11 Kil. farther, beyond which
the traveller must ride or walk.

The toad follows the right hank of the Laagen, which descends
from the Nordmands- Laagen in Hardanger (1500 ft. ; see p. 24).
As far as Skjenne, where the Laagen and Opdalselv unite, the sce-
nery is somewhat monotonous.

17 Kil. Svennesund. Farther on we pass the church of Fles-
berg , situated on the left hank of the Laagen. The next stations
are (13 Kil.) Heimyr , (17 Kil.) Alfstad, and (17 Kil.) Helle,
at the S. end of the Kravik-Fjord (868 ft.). The district between
the church of Vaglid and Skajem is picturesque. The road runs
for 22 Kil. along the bank of the Kravikfjord and Norefjord,
which had better be traversed by boat , and passes many thriving
farm-houses. One of the old buildings of Gaarden Kravik is said
to date from the 12th century. The Nore-Kirke, on the W. bank of
the Nore-Fjord , an old timber-built church now doomed to demo-
lition, contains interesting paintings and inscriptions in a kind of
hieroglyphics, the objects (eyes, ears, animals, the devil, etc.)
themselves being represented. — The Eidsfjeld (4940 ft.), rising
to the S,, may be ascended from Nore in one day.

25 Kil. Sazvli lies at the N. end of the Nore-Fjord, and 3 Kil.
farther is Skjenne (920 ft.), an ancient 'Tingsted', or place of as-
size, where good accommodation is obtained.

From Skj/Jnne across the Fjeld to Hoi in the Hallingdal, l'/2-2 days.
The bridle-path ascends rather steeply, skirting the Laagen, which rushes
through its channel far below, and passing the 0ygaarde, to the (11 Kil.)
S. end of the Tunhevd-Fjord (2625 ft.). At Itaga we take a boat and
ascend the lake, being towed through several rapids, to the (22 Kil.) N. end.
Then a steep ascent to Tunhavd, a hill-farm, where good quarters for the
night are obtained. Next day we cross monotonous 'Heier' (barren heights),
skirting the Radwngsvand (810 ft.) and the base of the Sangevfjeld (3900 ft.),
and passing several sEcters, and at length reach Hoi (Hammursbeen) in
the Hallingdal (p. 87).

A little beyond Skjanne the road enters the Opdal , and the
scenery becomes very picturesque. Within the next 8 Kil. (5 Engl.
M.) the road ascends 600 ft. to the Fennebufjord (1525 ft.), at the
W. end of which is (13 Kil.) Liverud. Thence to (21 Kil.) Bw-
sterud (2550 ft.) a continuous and somewhat monotonous ascent.

From Br<?rsterud to Hoi in the Hallingdal a mountain-path leads in l-l'/i
days. It crosses a hill (3800 ft.) whence the Hallingskarv (5735 ft.) to the
N.W. and the whole of the Jotunheim chain are visible, and then descends
past the Vass and Hefde sseters to Kjensaas in Dagalid (2750 ft.). We
again cross the mountain to the Skurdal (2740 ft. ; poor quarters) , and
then another height to the Ustadal, pass several farms, and reach Hammers-
been and Hoi (p. 87).

For the route across the mountain 'Vidda' ('width', or 'ex-
panse') to the Hardanger (100 Kil., a journey of two days at least)
a guide should be engaged either at Bresterud , or, if possible,
lower down the valley (12 kr.), and a supply of provisions ob-

26 Route 4. TELEMARKEN.

taiiied. The route starts from the Floten farm (2390 ft.), 2'/2 Kil.
to the N. of Bresterud (good quarters), at first follows the sater-
path, and then traverses a lofty plateau (4000 ft.) commanding an
extensive view in every direction. It passes the S. side of the Sol-
heimsfjeld, the Skarsvand, and the Ylgelidsceter, and then leads
round the Heljebretefjeld to the Gjetsje, where the Laagen is cross-
ed by boat. We next proceed either direct along the Store JVor-
mandsslcebet to the Holmetjem (see below), passing the night in
one of the fishermen's huts on the Gjetsja (indifferent quarters), or
gon on to Hansbu (3380 ft.), a fisherman's hut at the E. end of the
Langesje (3990 ft.), which affords poor quarters for the night (45 Kil.
from Floten). — Next morning our route leads round the Redheller-
fjeld (4690 ft.) to the N.W. to the Holmetjem, and then, crossing
the boundary between the Numedal and the Hallingdal Fogderi,
and skirting the Svinta, reaches the Nybu-Satre (3600 ft.), on the
Nybusj0 , the first on the W. side of the fjeld ( Vestenfjeldske
Norge). Beyond this we generally follow the course of the Bjerreia,
which lower down forms the Veringsfos (p. 61), and cross snow-
fields, brooks, and marshes. The path is marked by 'Varder', or
signals, as far as Storlien, and thence to Maursat (2370 ft.) and
the gaard of Hel it cannot be mistaken (comp. p. 87).

4. From Christiania to Odde.

Telemarken.

Comp. the Maps, pp. 18, 32.

Telemakken, one of the most picturesque districts in Norway,
extending from the vicinity of Kongsberg on the E. to the Haukeli-Sseter
on the W., and from Kragertf on the S. to the Hardanger Vidda on the
N., boasts of several beautiful lakes, a number of fine waterfalls, »nd
much wild mountain scenery. Many of the lakes afford excellent trout-
fishing, so that, if the pursuit of angling be combined with the ex-
ploration of the scenery, several weeks might most pleasantly be devoted
to this district alone. Some of the mountains and forests also afford
good shooting. The following description embraces the two chief routes
through the district from E. to W. Comp. also R. 3.

a. Via Kongsberg.

402 Kil. (250 Engl. JI.J. Railway to Kongsberg, 98 Kil., see p. 19;
carriage-road thence to Odde, with fast stations, 299 Kil. (carriole or
stolkjferre with springs 17 0. per kilometre; kjferre for 2pers., generally
uncomfortable, 24 ».).

This fine route may be accomplished with tolerable ease in 5 days,
but 8-10 days should, if possible, be devoted to the journey and the
points of interest on the way. Travellers by this route desirous of
seeing the Rjukanfos and of avoiding the rough route thence to Holvik,
the Totakvand, and Jamsgaard (p. 24) may visit the waterfall from
I.ysthus, returning thither by the same route, in 2 days. The direct

route may be conveniently divided into the following stages: 1st Dav.

Railway to Kongsberg (dep. early in the morning, arr. about noon) ; drive
to Landsvcerk (17 Kil. beyond Lysthus, the station for the digression to

the Rjukanfos) in 8-9 hrs. — 2nd Day. Drive to Mogen in 10-12 hrs.

3rd Day. Drive to Haukeli in 12 hrs. — 4th Day. Drive to Rgldal in

SKEJE. 4. Route. 27

4 hrs., and either go on the same day to Odde, or — 5th Day. Drive to
Odde in 9-10 hrs.

From Christiania to Kongsberg, and thence to Notodden (Furu-
heim) and the church of Hitterdal, see II. 3. About 10 Kil. beyond
Hitterdal the road to the Tinnsje (p. 23) diverges to the right (N.),
while our route leads to the W. — Pedestrians will be repaid by
leaving the high-road 5 Kil. beyond Hitterdals-Kirke (p. 22), cross-
ing the river, ascending the Himingen (3450ft.), an isolated,
pyramidal hill which commands an admirable view in every direc-
tion, and descending thence to Mosebe (see below), a walk of
7-8 hrs. (guide desirable).

19 Kil. Landsvaerk i Sauland (poor station), amid picturesque
scenery. Better accommodation at (2 Kil. farther) Kleppenhayen
(Hotel Lavheim, moderate). — 2 Kil. farther on, Mosebe.

Fkom Mosebo to Dale in the Vestfjorddal, or Maanelv Valley (p. 24),
ca. 40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.). — Carriage-road to Been in the Tudal, 23 Kil.
(14 '/a Engl. M.); thence by a sseter-path (guide necessary) across the spurs
of the Gausta and past the Lcmgefond-Sceter to Dale in 4-5 hrs (a long, but
in many respects interesting day's journey). By sleeping at Beren and start-
ing very early next morning, we may ascend the Gausta on the way.

As we ascend the valley the scenery becomes wilder and more
imposing. Passing the Hjarsje (490 ft.) on the left , we next
stop at —

17 Kil. Skeje i Hjcerdal (poor station).

From this station the traveller may ascend the Vindegg (4890 ft.),
which commands a magnificent survey of the Gausta and other mountains.
The route ascends in 2-3 hrs. past several picturesque waterfalls, the
parsonage, the Fyrebevatn, and a number of sseters, to the Prwstegaards-
Sceter, from which the summit is reached in 2-3 hrs. more (guide desirable).

The road now ascends to the watershed between the Hjserdal
and the Flatdal. Near the top of the hill (11 Kil.) a road diverges
to the N.W. to (11 Kil.) Aamotsdal, whence paths lead to the To-
takvand and Rauland (p. 24) and to the Mjesvand (p. 24), the
former being about 50 Kil., the latter 20 Kil. from our present
route. From Aamotsdal another path leads via Rcepelid to (28 Kil.)
Vaaer (p. 23).

Our road turns towards the S. and descends by zigzags, com-
manding very striking views, to Flatdal, with its little church and
sprinkling of farms. It then skirts the E. bank of the Flatdals-
vand, with the Skorvefjeld (4380 ft.) rising in the background.
Adjoining the lake is the Spaadomsnut, the falling of which into
the water, according to local tradition, will be the prelude to the
end of the world. Farther on we obtain a view of the Siljordsvand
(385 ft.), a picturesque lake, 14 Kil. (8'/2 Engl. M.) in length,
traversed 4-5 times weekly by a small steamboat. On the N.E.
side of the lake rises the Lifjeld (5085 ft.), on which two French
aeronauts descended in 1870, having arrived in their balloon from
Paris in 15 hours. At the N.W. end of the lake, along which our
way leads, lie the church of Siljord and the gaard of Grov, at the
junction of a road to Skien (p. 33).

28 Route 4. MOGEN. From Christiania

26 Kil. Utbeen i Siljord [fair quarters; also at the adjacent
Nordgaarderi) , prettily situated beyond a stream flowing into
the lake.

About 14 Kil. from Siljord we pass the Brunkebergs - Kirke
(1290 ft), splendidly situated on the watershed, where the road
forks. The left (S.) arm leads to (17 Kil. from Utbeen) Kirkebe,
a station of the steamer which plies on the Hvidesje and the Ban-
daksvand (p. 34). Our route leads to the right (N.W.) through
the Morgedal, passing two small lakes (1390 ft.). We next stop at
(10 Kil. from the church) —

23 Kil. Haugen or Berge i Brunkeberg (good station), and
then cross a range of hills of considerable height to —

15 Kil. Mogen i Heidalsmo (good station), near which a road
diverges to the 8. to (12 Kil.) Laurdal on the Bandaksvand (p. 35).
In the vicinity are several lakes which afford good fishing. A hilly but
very picturesque bye-road leads hence towards the N. to (37 Kil.)
Rauland on the imposing Totakvand (p. 24). — Our route contin-
ues in a straight direction, traversing a fine mountainous region.

16 Kil. Aamot (tolerable station), not far from the *Hyllandsfos
(p. 36), which lies beyond the bridge over the Toke-Elv.

From Aamot (or Heggestol) to Naesland and Ravnejnvet, see pp. 36, 35.

Farther on is the house of Mule, prettily situated above the E.
end of the Vinjevand. From Mule the somewhat hilly road ascends
the N. bank of the lake for about 200 yds., passing several farms,
amongst which is Jamsgaard, where a carriage - road diverges to
Kosthveit on the Totakvand (p. 24). We then descend abruptly to
the church of Vinje, at the N.W. end of the Vinjevand. Here
a beautiful view is obtained of the Midtfjeld (4580 ft.) and of the
Orm Eggen to the S.W.

14 Kil. Heggesttfl (good station). The road then crosses the
Orungedals-Elv by a lofty bridge , and follows the right bank of
the river towards the N. , first passing through a pine-wood, and
then ascending to the hamlet of Kringlegd. The Flaatebunut on
the Totakvand now comes into sight to the N., and remains in
view during the remainder of the journey through the somewhat
monotonous valley. We now cross the Elv by the Grungedalsbro,
a sort of Norwegian 'Devil's Bridge', commanding a delightful view
to the S. and W. Here the road is joined on the right by a footpath
from Brunelid on the Totakvand (p. 24), while a new road is being
constructed from this point to Dalen, on the Bandaksvand, which
will shorten this route by 18 Kil. Our present route turns sharply
to the W. and soon reaches the pretty Grungedalsvand (1590 ft.),
on the N. bank of which is situated the station of —

13 Kil. Nylaind (poor and dirty). The Grungedalsvand and many
of the lakes passed farther on abound in fish, a fact of which ocular
evidence is given by the large flocks of sea-gulls. The next part of
the route, skirting the green but shallow lake and affording a good

to Odde. BOTTEN. 4. Route. 29

yiew of the Orungefjeld, is very picturesque. After passing the
Church of Grungedal we reach the farms of Eilandt, where trav-
ellers in the reverse direction generally halt for ^ hr. (An unin-
teresting footpath leads hence to the N.W. end of the Totakvand.)
The road now crosses the foaming Oeislauselv and follows the left
bank of the Flaathel-Eiv. To the left (S.) we see the fine Vafos
descending from the Langeidvand in a series of bold leaps. The
route now ascends the dreary and almost entirely uninhabited valley,
passing several H0I, or deep pools formed by the Elv after break-
ing through, in the form of waterfalls or rapids, the various rocky
barriers thrown across its course. The largest of these waterfalls
(to the left, close to the road) is named the Lille Bjukanfos (comp.
p. 24), the best point of view for which is the projecting rock near
its foot. The largest H0I is the Ekelidhel (2290 ft.). Continuing
to ascend without intermission, we at last reach —

26 Kil. Botten i Grungedal (2590 ft. ; good station, with facil-
ities for shooting and fishing), situated on the pretty Voxlivand
(2500 ft.) and commanding a view of snow-clad mountains from
the landscape.

From Botten to Stavanger. Good walkers (for the path is almost
too rough for riding) may here diverge to the S.W. to (45 Kil.) Jordbrwkke,
a walk of 14-16 hrs., and (7 Kil.) Roaldkvam on the Suledalsvand (see p. 48).

Beyond Botten the road at first skirts the Voxlivand, passing
the farm of Voxli on the right (to the left the new Hotel Nystel),
and then the Arrebuvand and the Evenbuvand. The district trav-
ersed is deserted and monotonous, a few old and dying pines being
almost the only objects to attract the eye. Farther on the road runs
more to the right, on the hill, and reaches a point commanding a
fine *View of the mountains to the "W.: to the left Vasdalseggen
(5765 ft.) , then Kistebunuten, the Kallevasheia, and the Sveien.
Below us, to the left, lies the Kjcelavand (2940 ft.), to the S. of
which rises the Kjalatind. The trees now entirely disappear from
the landscape.

18 Kil. Haukeli-Saeter, at the E. end of the Staavand (3085 ft.).
Comp. the Map, pp. 54, 55. Good accommodation (open only from
June 15th to Sept. 15th) at fixed rates; bed in one of the 'Ka-
jiiten' 50 0., elsewhere 1 kr., two pers. in one room 70 0. each;
B. or S. 60 e.-l kr., D. l-l3/4kr. according to the number of courses.
Adjoining the main building is a tasteful new 'Stabbur', with
small bedrooms and good beds on the upper floor. — Skyds to
Reldal 6, for 2 pers. 8 kr.

The sseter lies in the midst of most imposing scenery, and
commands an unimpeded view of the fjeld. The peaks and even
some parts of the plateau remain covered with snow as late as
August. Large herds of reindeer browse in the vicinity, descending
to the lake in the afternoon.

The excellent new road, opened in 1886, leads at first to the

30 Route 4. DYRESKARD. From Christiania

N.W., skirting the Staavand. After about 10 min. we have a
glimpse of the Storefond to the right, while '/4 nr- farther on, to
the left, is a ruined bridge, over which the old bridle-path led.
About 2'/2 M. from Haukeli, we cross the Vlevua-Elv, which de-
scends from the N. and forms the boundary between the districts of
Bratsberg and Semdre Bergenhus ; to the right it makes some low
but very broad cascades. In 1 M. more we reach the Ulevaavand
(3095 ft. ; 2 M. long), to the left, along the N. bank of which our
route ascends. The solitary Fjeld scenery is seen here to full ad-
vantage. To the right we have a fine view of the precipitous Store
Nup and the Storefond, and to the left is the Sveien ; in front rises
the Stafsnuten, to the right of which are the Rekkingsnuten and the
Midtdyrrnstene.

After a drive of I-IV4 nr- (pl/-2 M.J from Haukeli, we cross a
bridge over the Midtdyr-Elv and turn to the S. The road here reaches
the foot of the Dyrnut, the E. part of the Stafsnut, and begins to as-
cend the pass of Dyreskard, the highest point of which (3715 ft; wat-
ershed) is attained in V2 hr. more. To the left is a 'Varde', erected
by King Oscar II. We now proceed to the W. through a barren
district of snow and stones, sometimes on a level and sometimes
descending slightly. To the right is Stafsnuten, to the left Sveien
and the narrow green 0isteinvand. To the left, below the road,
9!/2 M. from Haukeli, lies the Midtlager-Sceter, and 5 min. farther
on, adjoining the road, is the Nye Midtlaeger-Sseter (milk and
bread). About 10 min. later the three houses of Svaldalsflaaene
and a row of small lakes appear below us to the left; in 10 min.
more we reach the hill of Staven and in 5 min. more begin to de-
scend. To the right, below, lies the Tarjebudal, with the saeters of
Tarjebudal and Nya Stel- to the W., in front of us, is the Horre-
hei. In 10 min. more we cross the Risbubro to the right bank of
the Risbu-Aa and then descend rapidly in violent curves. Near
(10 min.) the 0stmanlid Sater, we have a fine *Glimpse of the
Reldalsvand. Walkers can effect a considerable saving here by
short-cuts. The scenery improves. In 20 min. more we cross the
Vasdalselv and follow its right bank. Straight in front of us is the
Novle-Vos, the nearest point of the road to which is reached 10 min.
later. In 5 min. more the Reldalsvand again comes into sight,
backed by the Holmenuten and Reldalsaaten. A drive of 12 min.
more brings us to —

30 Kil. Gryting i Reldal (see p. 49). — The road descends in
windings. From the top of the *Oorsvingane we have a splendid
view of the Gorsbotn and the vast snow- fields of the Folgefond
( comp. p. 55).

28 Kil. Seljestad and —
26 Kil. Odde, see p. 65-67.

to Odde. T0NSBERG. 4. Route. 31

b. Via. Skien. '

This route generally takes 6 days, but under favourable circumstances
may be completed in less. — 1st Day. From Christiania to Skien by rail-
way, 204 Kil. or 126 M. ; by express train in 6'/2 hrs. (fares 11 kr. 30, 7 kr.
70 0.), by ordinary train in 7-9'/2 hrs. (fares 9 kr. 20, 6 kr. 15 jzr.). The
steamer , four times weekly, takes 10-14 hrs. From Skien to Ulefos by
steamer, in connection with the express train, in 21/> hrs. (daily except
Sun. ; fare 2 kr.). — 2nd Day. Drive to Strcengen in 23/4-3 hrs. ; from
Strsengen to Dalen by the steamer 'Bratsberg' or 'Telemarken' on the
Flaa, Hvideseid, and Bandak Lakes daily (except Sun.) in 6V2 hrs., start-
ing at noon (fares 3 kr. 60, 2 kr. 25 «.). — 3rd Day. Drive from Dalen
via Eidsborg Church (whence Ravnejuvet may be visited) to Mogen i ITei-
dalsmo, or walk or ride by the direct route to Heggestel, both on the road
to Odde, see p. 28. — 4th, 5th, and 6th Days, as in Fooute a.

From Christiania to (53 Kil.) Drammen, see R. 2. Through-
carriages. The railway ('Jarlsbergbane') from Drammen to Laurvik
and Skien runs to the S.W. past the suburb of Tangen and then
ascends, at a considerable gradient (1 : 80), the Kobberviksdal, the
highest point of which (250 ft.) is reached at (62 Kil.) Skouger. —
69 Kil. Galleberg.

73 Kil. (45 Engl. M.) Sande, with the church of the same name,
situated near the Sandebugt, of which a fine view is obtained to
the left. The next part of the line skirts the fjord.

86 Kil. Holmestrand (Hotel du Nord; Victoria ; Vesmaris ; Rail-
way Restaurant), a sea-bathing place with 2320 inhab., situated at
the foot of a steep porphyry cliff. The train now leaves the coast
for a little. — 96 Kil. Nykirke. 100 Kil. Skopum, near the Borrevand;
branch-line hence to Borre and (3 Kil.) Horten on the Christiania
Fjord (p. 37). — 103 Kil. (64 M.) Angedal. 109 Kil. Barkaker.
To the right we see the chateau of Jarlsberg. The train skirts the
Tensberg (left) and runs back through a short tunnel to —

115 Kil. (71 M.) Tansberg (Victoria Hotel; English consular
agent, Mr. Alf Monsen) , a town with 6900 inhab., and the oldest
in Norway, dating from the time of Harald Haarfager. This is the
headquarters of a number of hardy Arctic mariners residing chiefly
in the islands of Nettere and Tjeme to the S. of the town, who
man the fleet of about fifty whalers and seal-hunting vessels of
considerable size (one-third of them being steamers) which an-
nually starts from this port. The hill above the town , formerly
crowned by a castle and now penetrated by the above-mentioned
railway tunnel, commands a beautiful view.

The line does not extend any farther in this direction, and the
train backs out of the station and returns for 7 Kil. in the direction
from which it came. At (121 Kil.) Sem or Semb it crosses the
Oulie-Elv. 128 Kil. Stokke; 135 Kil. Raastad. To the lightlies
Gogstad, where a Viking ship was found (see p. 7).

139 Kil. (86 M.) Sandefjord (Hotel Kong Karl; Johnsen's
Hotel; Heidemark's Hotel, well spoken of), a favourite water-
ing-place with 3160 inhab. , and sulphurous, saline, and chalybeate
springs, prettily situated on the fjord of the same name. It stands

32 Route 4. LAURVIK. From Christiania

in regular steamboat communication with Christiania. The sea
here in summer swarms with medusa? ('maneter'), which make
a not altogether desirable'addition to the pleasures of bathing, but
are said to exercise a beneficial effect in certain ailments. — The
Jcettegryder near Aasen are very interesting; the largest is up-
wards of 20 ft. deep. Other giant-cauldrons of a similar kind at the
(6 Kil.) Vindalsbugt may be visited by boat. — The whole district
between Tensberg and Laurvik is replete with historical interest.
At Hjertnces are several Bauta Stones.

144 Kil. (891/2 M.) Joberg, in the midst of a wooded and mono-
tonous district; 149 Kil. Tjedling, commanding a view of the
Laurvikfjord as far as Fredriksvaern. The train now crosses the
Laagen (p. 25) by a bridge 550 ft. in length. It then traverses the
suburb of Thorstrand, passes through two tunnels, and reaches —

158 Kil. (98 M.) Laurvik. — Hotels. 'Victoria Hotel (English
spoken), Central Hotel, *Thoba Hansen's Hotel (moderate), all three
near the railway-station ; Johannesen's, at some distance, better adapted
for a long stay, K. 2 kr.; Kong Kael, in the Lille Torvet, with cafe,
reading-room, and billiard-room.

Bath Establishment (Dr. T. C. Holm's), at the harbour, adjoining
Johannesen's Hotel, with good sulphur, mud, and warm salt-water baths,
and a sulphurous drinking-spring ; pens. 18 kr. weekly, 64 kr. monthly,
E. 20-50 kr. per month. 'Kurpenge', or visitors' tax, for baths, physician,
and spring, 22 kr. per week for the first fortnight, 20 kr. per week for
the second fortnight, and afterwards 15 kr. per week. — Sea -Baths, to
the W. of the harbour. — English Vice-Consul, Mr. JSrg Christiansen.

Laurvik or Larvik , formerly the capital of the county of that
name, is finely situated near the mouth of the Laagen or Lougen
in the Laurvlkfjord, and is a pleasant place for a short residence.
With the suburbs of Langestrand to the W. and Thorstrand to the
B. it contains 11,200 inhabitants.

The station lies close to the harbour, which the railway skirts.
A pleasant walk may be taken along the wharfs and past a bathing-
establishment to the Farisvand, the outflow of which affords the
motive power for several manufactories. Those whose time is
limited should turn to the right beyond Johannesen's Hotel and
ascend to the *Begeskov, a fine beech-plantation above the houses
on the side of the town. We enter the wood on the W., obtaining
at once a good view of the Farisvand. A few hundred yards higher
up a fine *View of the sea opens to the right. We then follow the
ridge to a cafe-dairy at the E. end of the wood and descend to the
right to the town. To the right, on a bare rock, is the Brandvagt.
Another walk may be taken to the E. from the station to the Laur-
viks Kirke, which commands a fine view of the fjord and to the
Herrgaardsbakken. The whole of this circuit may be made in
l!/2-2 hrs.

The railway (best views to the right) crosses the Faris-Elv and
skirts the W. bank of the Farisvand. 169 Kil. Tjose • 182' Kil.
Aaklungen, on the small lake of that name (135 ft.). The train now
turns to the S., passing several lakes. 188 Kil. Birkedalen (235 ft )■

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to Odde. ULEFOS. 4. Route. 33

191 Kil. Eidanger (Hotel ; several bath-houses in the fjord), '/2 hr.
from the station, pleasantly situated on the Eidanger-Fjbrd.

195 Kil. (121 Engl. M.) Forsgrund (Stiansen's Hotel, well
spoken of; Victoria, with cafe, R. &L. 2kr. 55 -0., tolerable), a town
of 3600 inhab., situated on both sides of the Skiens-Elv, which
descends from the Nordsja and here enters a bay of the Friersfjord.

Beyond Porsgrund the train ascends the left bank of the broad
Skiens-Elv to —

204 Kil. (125 Engl. M.) Skien. — Hotels. "Hoiee's Hotel, at.
the pier of the southward-bound steamers, R. & L. 2'/2, A. >/2, B. li !>•
2 kr. ; Royal, new; Victoria, on the hill above the railway - station ;
Ph<enix, on the hill behind Hover's. The last two second-class.

Steamers. The steamers for Telemarken (to the N. W.) start from the
dam to the N. of the Damfos : to Ulefos and Tangen i Hitterdal twice daily,
except Sun., in 2'/2 and 5'/2 hrs. (fares 2 and 3'/2 kr.). Steamers to Pors-
grund and Langesund twice daily, starting from a pier about 1/i M. (Engl.)
from the other steamboat-quay ; to Christiania 4 times weekly; to Arendnl
and to Frederikshald once weekly. See Communication er, Nos. 154, 156, 215, 336.

British Vice- Consul, Mr. J. Franklin.

Skien (pronounced Sch'ien or Sk'ien), the ancient Skida, a town
with 7300 inhab., dates originally from the 14th cent., but has
been repeatedly burned down (last in 1886) and rebuilt. It now
contains numerous modern stone houses and paper-mills. To the
S. of the town the Skiens-Elv forms the Klosterfos and the Dam-
fos, two waterfalls of great volume, which are crossed by bridges.
On a small island between the falls formerly stood the nunnery of
Gimse, founded in 1110. On the steep Bratsbergklev, to the E. of
the town, are the ruins of the (V2 nr-) Bratsberg Chapel, belonging
to the adjacent Bratsberg- Gaard, which has given its name to the
entire district (fine view).

The steamer for Ulefos ascends the Skiens-Elv, passing through
the three curious locks of Leveid, and after 1 hr. enters the Nordsje
(50 ft.), a picturesque lake about 45 Kil. or 28 Engl. M. in length.
To the right in the rocky bank, at a height of about 155 ft. above
the surface of the water, is -the Mikalshul, or Michael's cave, which
may be visited by boat from Leveid. Roman Catholic services
were held in it in former times. In about 1 hr. after entering the
lake the steamer reaches —

28 Kil. Ulefos i Holden (skyds-station at the pier, small but
tolerable; Hotel Aaeheim, 25 min. from the pier, on the way to
Strsengen, poor; Peer Jensen's Inn, on the N. side of the river,
20 min. from the pier) , with numerous saw-mills , iron-works,
two churches, and several villas belonging to wealthy timber-
merchants, is picturesquely situated on the W. bank of the lake,
and on both banks of the Eids-Elv or Songa (small boat 10-
20».), which descends from the great Telemarken lakes and here
enters the Nordsje. About 13 min. from the pier this little river
fOTms the fine waterfall which gives its name to the place. To the
S.W. rises the Nukefjeld (1285 ft.; 3-4 hrs.l. a fine point of view.

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 3

34 Routed. KIRKEB0. From Christiania

A canal is now being' constructed between the Nordsjjsr and the Flaavand
(see below), which will bring the Bandaksvand into direct communication
with the sea. It will probably be finished in two or three years.

Travellers for the Hittekdal and the Ejlkanfos do not disembark at
Ulefos, but go. on with the steamer, passing the Romencet (with a deserted
church) to (l'/2 hr.) Akershougen. [From here we may drive via (5 Kil.)
Seboden to (18 Kil.) Grave, at the E. end of the Siljordsvand, comp. p. 27.]
The steamer then proceeds to the N. end of the Nordsjtf, where the scenery
is finer than at the S. end, and enters the Sauer-Elv, a river connecting
the Nordsjtf with theHitterdalsvand'(60ft.), another picturesque lake, 16 Kil.
in length. The steamer here touches at Farodden (Farvolden), at the foot
of the lake, and also at Notodden (p. 21) and other stations, and in about
41 V5 hrs. after leaving Skien reaches Tmigen (5 Kil. from the church of
Ilitterdal, p. 22).

From Ulefos i Holden we now drive (to Stnengen 22 Kil., carriole
3 kr. 74 0., stolkjarre for 2 pers. 5 kr. 60 e.) through a fertile and
uninteresting district, occasionally enjoying a view of the Lifjeld
(p. 27) to the N., to —

11 Kil. Lundefaret, opposite which is the church of Lunde.
Beyond this point the road leads along the Songa to —

11 Kil. Strangen (tolerahle quarters), at the E. end of the
Flaavand, which is traversed by two steamers (restaurant on board).
The eland is still found in the forests on the banks. On reaching
the W. end of the lake (15 Kil. from Stoengen) the steamer enters
the narrow Fjaagesund and soon reaches the Hvidesje (185 ft.).
The scenery now becomes finer : to the right rises the Brokefjeld
(3540ft.), to the left, in the distance, the Roboltfjeld (3345 ft.),
and to the W., near the Bandaksvand, the peak of the Rauberg.
At the upper end of the lake lies the wooded island of Bukeen.
The steamer now enters the Sundkilen, if the depth of water in the
shallow sound connecting this small lake with the Hvidesje allows
it, and calls at ■ —

Kirkeba (fast station, see p. 28; accommodation at the houses
of Wriedt and Jonassen, both well spoken of; toUtb^en iSiljordlT,
to Berge i Brunkeberg 18, to Strand i Vraadal 14 Kil.). — It then
returns to the Hvidesje, rounds the Spjosodd, and stops at Hvide-
seid, at the W. end of the lake.

Fkom Hvideseio to Tvedestkanb (ill Kil. or 87 Engl. M.) or Abendal
(150 Kil. or 93 Engl. M.). The road ascends rapidly , and (hen descends
to (7 Kil.) Slrand i Vraadal, a little to the W. of which lies the
Vraavand (p. 35). Our route now turns to the S. and skirts the E.
bank of the Msservand (795 ft.), a fine sheet of water, 34 Kil. long,
affording good trout-fishing. The next two stages may be made in
the small steamer which plies on the lake (four times weeklv). The follow-
ing stations are (23 Kil.) Bakka i Nissedal, (19 Kil.) Tvetsund, (19 Kil.) fly,
(16 Kil.) Neergaarden (fair station), (13 Kil.) Simonslad i Aamlid, (18 Kil.)
Uberg, and (15 Kil.) Tvedestrand (p. 38). From Tvedestrand one steamer
weekly runs direct to Christiania (in 15 hrs.), and one weekly to Christiansand
(7 hrs.), while small steamers ply almost daily to the Dy'nga and the Bora
in connection with the larger coasting steamers. The traveller bound for
Christiansand will, however, find it preferable to drive direct from Uberg
(see above) to (17 Kil.) Voie i Meland and (13 Kil., pay for 14) Arendal
(p. 38), whence steamers run daily to Christiansand (in 6 hrs.).

Beyond Hvideseid the steamer passes through the canalized

to Odde. BANDAKSVAND; 4. Routt. 35

channel of the Skarpatremmen (3 M. long), connecting the Hvidesja
with the *Bandaksvand (205 ft.), a long and picturesque lake, en-
closed by imposing mountains of considerable height , and well
stocked with trout and other fish. The sharp peaks and ridges on
the N. bank assume various fantastic forms, to which appropriate
names have been attached. The first view of these mountains, after
the station of Apalste (right) and the island of Bandakse (left)
have been passed, is very imposing, but afterwards the lake becomes
somewhat monotonous. The W. end, however, is enclosed by
another fine group of mountains.

About IY2 nr- after leaving Hvideseid, the steamer touches at
Laurdal (*Bakke's Hotel , at the pier ; skyds-station at the gaard
of Bjaaland), beautifully situated amidst rich vegetation in a valley
facing the S., and sheltered on all other sides. A good road
leads hence to Mogen i Heidalsmo (12 Kil., p. 28). — On the S.
bank of the lake, opposite Laurdal, lies Bandakslid (ferry in 20 min.,
20 0.), also a steamboat-station.

From Bandakslid ('slow' station , horses to be ordered beforehand)
the hill is crossed by a very picturesque zigzag road to (3 Kil.) Midtgaarden
(fast station) and the Vraavand (845 ft.), which is connected by a river
with the Skredvand , a lake lying 230 ft. higher. Not far from the road
this river forms a picturesque fall, known as the "'Lille Rjwkanfos (a plea-
sant and easy day's excursion from Trisset i Laurdal). Farther on (8 Kil.)
is Rindeliakken (slow station), beyond which are Veuin and (15 Kil.) Moland,
on the Fyrisvand (25 Kil. in length). Between Veum and Moland the Bispevei
diverges to the W. to (40 Kil.) Viken i Valle in the Ssetersdal (p. 41), a
very rough walk of 12-13 hrs.

At the upper end of the Bandaksvand (l'/ahr. from Laurdal,
by steamer) is Dalen (Tokedalen's Hotel, by the pier, R. 1 kr., B. or
S. 80 e.\ Dalen's Hotel, in Dalen itself, 1 Engl. M. from the lake;
both well spoken of), the starting-point for a visit to the Ravne-
juvet (3-4 hrs.. there and back 7 hrs.; horse to Ravnejuvet 5, to
Sandok 7 kr.).

The fine road ascends to the N. in zigzags , along a rocky wall
1500-2000 ft. high. Fine view of the lake and of the Botnedal to
the W. After 1-1 '^hr- we reach the top (extensive view), and
then proceed by a level road to the village of (Y2 nr0 Eidsbory
(2300 ft.), where a manganese quarry and a timber-built church
(exterior ancient ; interior modern, except the wooden crucifix and
hanging bronze lamp) are objects of interest. The road divides here,
the carriage-road to the right leading to (18 Kil. from Dalen ; p. 28)
Mogen i Heidalsmo, and the path to the left to Aamot and Heggestel.

The latter ascends the steep Eidsborgaasen. On reaching the
top it descends on the other side, amid rocks and wood, to the
Molands-Sceter (milk). A tablet about i/2 M. farther on, to the left,
indicates the way to *Ravnejuvet or Bavnedjupet, a perpendicular
rock, about 1000 ft. in height, overhanging the turbulent Toke-Elv,
and commanding a fine view of the Libygfjeld and the district of
Neesland. A pavilion has been erected here in memory of the visit
of King Oscar in 1879.

3G Route 5. CHRISTIANIA FJORD.

Travellers encumbered with much luggage must return to Eids-
borg, and continue their journey thence by the carriage-road (men-
tioned above) to Mogen. Riders and pedestrians may, however, pro-
ceed from Ravnejuvet direct to Nsesland and Aarnot (or Heggest»l).
Thepath at first leads through dense forests, and afterwards descends
rapidly and crosses the Tokeelv. In 1-1 1/4 hr- we reach the village
of Nsesland , where good accommodation may be obtained at the
gaard of Sandok. A stolkjserre may also be procured here for Hegge-
stel (6 kr.) or Aamot (4 kr.). We must, however, ascend on foot
(steep) for 1/4 hr. more, to the gaard of Gjelhus, with an old
'Stabbur' said to date from 1115 (date forged). The hilly road now
leads through lonely forests. From the higher points we obtain a
view of the Vehuskjmrringen (4508 ft.) to the S.E. At the foot of
this mountain is the Hyllandsfos, formed by the Toke-Elv, which
descends from the Totakvand. After passing the Groven gaard and
crossing the Vinje-Elv we reach the great Telemarken high-road
(IY2 hr. from Sandok). For Aamot we turn here to the left (W.),
for Heggestel to the right ; see p. 28.

5. From Christiania to Christiansand.

Steamboats (comp. '■Norges Comnumicationer\ Nos. 15a, 163, 168, 175,
177, 180). About nll-14 steamers start weekly from Christiania for Chris-
tiansand , a distace as the crow flies of 39 Norwegian nautical miles
(156 Engl. M.), performing the voyage in 16-30 hrs., according to circum-
stances (fares 18 kr. 45, 12 kr. 30 0.). The larger steamers, bound for Bergen,
Throndhjem, and the North , touch between Christiania and Christian-
sand only at Arendal and Lmirvik , while others touch at ten or twelve
intermediate stations. The traveller who proposes to break his journey
at any station between these two towns may perform the first part of
it by one of the small coasting steamers plying to Drebak (daily), Holme-
strand (daily) , Moss (almost daily) , Tensberg (almost daily), Sandefjord
(4 times a week) , or to Porsgrvnd and Skieti (4 times a week). The
smaller vessels , which touch at numerous stations , ply almost exclu-
sively lindenskjcers', i.e. within the Skjcergaard, or belt of islands which
flanks almost every part of the Norwegian coast, where the water is
perfectly smooth , while the course of the larger steamers is luden-
skjwvs\ or outside the islands, where the sea is often rough. The tra-
veller may, therefore, if he prefer it, perform nearly the whole voyage
to Christiansand in smooth water, with the additional advantage of getting
occasional glimpses of some of the picturesque coast-towns. — Most of
the steamers have good restaurants on board (breakfast or supper about
l'/2, dinner 2 kr.), and good, though limited sleeping accommodation (stew-
ard's fee discretionary). — The distances in the following route are given
from station to station.

The * Christiania Fjord , a very picturesque arm of the sea,
about 50 English miles in length , enlivened with frequent
steamboats and sailing vessels, is bounded by banks of moderate
height, which are studded with pleasant looking country-houses,
villages, and towns. The steamer starts from the Bjervik on the E.
side of Christiania (p. 4), steers between the islands of Bleke and
Grasholm on the one side, commanding to the left a fine view of
the beautiful Bundefjord with its numerous country-houses, and the

DR0BAK. 5. Route. 37

islands of Linde and Hovede on the other (right, with interesting
strata of slate), and describes a circuit round the town. On the
right rises the picturesque chateau of Oscarshnll (p. 11), and to
the left (S.) projects the promontory of Ncesodtangen, which sep-
arates the Bundefjord from the main fjord of which it is a branch.
To the right, a little farther on, lies Sandviken (p. 14), ensconced
behind a number of islands. The vessel now steers due S., and the
beautiful city is soon lost to view. Looking back from this part of
the fjord, we obtain a view of the Kolsaas (1245 ft.), the Skougums-
aas (1130 ft.), and to the W. the Vardekolle, three porphyry hills
well known to geologists (p. 14). Several islands are passed, and
the fjord gradually contracts to a passage 850 yds. in width.

26 Kil. (16 Engl, M.) Dr*bak (two hotels), with 2100 inhab.,
carries on a considerable traffic in timber and ice. The latter is ob-
tained from a small lake in the neighbourhood, and is exported to
England as 'Wenham Lake ice'. In winter, when the upper part of
the fjord is blocked with ice, the navigation frequently remains open
up to this point. Opposite the town is the small fortified island of
Kaholm, with the Oscarsborg, to the W. of which (on the right) is
the peninsula of Hudrum. On the latter lies Slottet , a posting-
station, from which a hilly road leads to Svelvig on the Drammens-
fjord. Drabak and the next stations Hvidsten (500 inhab.) and
Soon (700 inhab.) are frequently visited for the sake of the sea-
bathing. Opposite Soon, on the W. bank of the fjord , which now
expands to a considerable width , and from which the Drammens-
fjord diverges here to the N., lies Holmestmnd, see p. 31. Beyond
iSoon the small steamers usually steer to the S., through the strait and
canal which separate the Jelle from the E. bank of the fjord, to —

26 Kil. (16 Engl. M.) Moss (Beinsch's Hotel ; Moss Hotel; English
vice-consul, Mr. W. Erichsen), a small town and sea-bathing place,
with 6900 inhab., where the treaty which terminated the war be-
tween Norway and Sweden was signed on 14th Aug. 1814. Near the
railway-station (p. 276), at the S. end of the town, is a bathing-
establishment. Opposite the church is an old graveyard, with monu-
ments of the 18th cent., now used as a promenade. A bridge leads
to the Jelle. Opposite Moss, on the W- bank of the fjord, is —

Hortenf Victoria Hotel), or Karl-Johansvcern, with 5850 inhab.,
prettily situated, the headquarters of the Norwegian fleet. The rich
vegetation of the upper part of the fjord is now left behind, and
the coast becomes more bleak and rocky. A little to the S. of
Horten lies Aasgaardstrand, beyond which is - —

12 Kil. (71/2 Engl. M.) Vail*, a small town with a large paste-
board-manufactory, where the larger coasting steamers touch fre-
quently. We next pass through the Tensbergs Canal to T«nsberg
(p. 31). — Beyond Tensberg our route passes the Nettere and Tjeme,
to the S.E. of which rises the lofty Lille Farder Lighthouse, which
marks the entrance to the Christiania Fjord. The steamer then rounds

38 Route 5. LANGESUND.

the promontory of Tensbergs Tende, -which has gained a -sinister
notoriety as the scene of numerous shipwrecks, and passes the
mouth of the Sandefjord, at the head of which lies the small town
of Sandefjord (p. 31). It then turns to the N. and steers through
the Laurvikfjord to —

44 Kil. (2772 Engl. M.) Laurvik, see p. 32. We then return
towards the S. to Fredriksvcern, at the mouth of the Laurvikfjord,
with 1300inhab., formerly the station of the Norwegian fleet. The
pleasure-grounds of Mellerbjergtt afford wide views of the sea.
— Crossing the mouth of the Langesunds-Fjord, which is unpro-
tected by islands, the steamer next stops at —

28 Kil. (1772 Engl. M.) Langesund (Johnsen's Inn, near the
pier; English consular agent, Mr. S. C. Larsen), with about 1400
inhab. , which lies at the entrance to an important water-highway
leading into the heart of Telemarken.

From Langesund to Poksgecnd and Skien, 29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.),
steamboat daily in 2-3 hrs. — About '/a br. after leaving Langesund we
reacb Brevik (Christiansen's Inn), a small town with 2200 inhab., charmingly
situated at the S.E. extremity of the rocky peninsula that separates the
Eidangerfjord from the Friersfjord. Opposite, to the S., lies the little
town of Stathelle. Our route then traverses the Friersfjord to (3/j hr.)
Porsgrund (p. 33) and ascends the Skienselv to (3/4 hr.) Skien (p. 33).

After leaving Langesund the course of the steamer is un-
protected by islands for some distance. The smaller steamers then
pass through the *Langesunds-KreppaQ. e. 'strait'), or Langaarsund,
a very narrow channel between lofty and picturesque rocks, while
the larger vessels steer through a wider passage inside the island
of Jomfruland, on which stands a lighthouse.

26 Kil. (16 Engl. M.) Kragerar {Central Hotel, 5 min. from the
pier; Victoria, small, near the Central; Mr. H. Larsen, English
vice-consul) , with 5200 inhab., a picturesquely situated and very
busy little town. A bust of Prof. Schweigaard (p. 7), a native of the
town, by Middelthun, has been erected here. In the neighbouring
island of Lange are iron-mines of some value, and near Kragera aTe
extensive deposits of apatite, a mineral consisting chiefly of phos-
phate of lime, largely used by manufacturers of artificial manures.

Between Kragere and Riseerthe coast is unprotected by islands.

26 Kil. (16 Engl. M.) 0ster-Eis«er (Thiis, at the pier, well
spoken of; Busck, in the town, 10 min. from the pier, R.l'/4kr.,B.
60 0. ; English vice-consul, Mr. H. C. Finne), with 2700 inhab., is
another small trading-town. The islands again become more nume-
rous. Some of the steamers next touch at Lynger and Boreen, and
others at (22 Kil.) Dyngeen or Haven, from which a small steamer
runs frequently to Tvedestrand (1-1 1/2 hr. ; see p. 39).

Beyond Haven the steamer enters the Tromesund , a strait
between the mainland and the considerable island of Trorne, and
soon enters the excellent harbour of —

20 Kil. (I21/9 Engl. M.) Arendal (*Hotel Sehnurbuseh, on the
quay, K. l'/o-^'/j kr. ; Grand Hotel; Henrikxen's Hotel; English

CHRISTIANSAND. 6. Route. 39

vice-consul, Mr. M. Kallevig), a ship-building and trading town of
considerable importance (4580 inhab.), prettily situated near the
mouth of the Nid-Elo, and possessing one of the largest commercial
fleets in Norway. A small terrace planted with trees (follow the
quay to the left of Schnurbusch's, ascend a little, and mount steps
to the left: 6 min.) affords an admirable *View.

One of the chief approaches to Telemarkex is by the road leading
from Arendal via Tvedestrand (see p. 38) and Sitnonstad (60 Kil., or 37',-_>
Engl. M.) to the Nisservand (comp. p. 34). Another road leads direct to
Rustdalen ■■, whence we cross the Nelaagvand to flimonttad (35 Kil.) and
proceed thence to the Nisservand (comp. p. 34).

Soon after leaving Arendal the steamer traverses the Oalte-
sund, between the Trome and the Hisei, and passes the two light-
houses known as Toriingerne. The next stations are —

21 Kil. (13 Engl. M.) 6Ymista<; (Meller's Hotel; Nilsson's Hotel),
with about 3000 inhab., and —

20 Kil. (12i/2 Engl. M.) Lillemnd (Hotel Norge),

36 Kil. (227-2 Engl. M.J Christiansand (see below).

6. Christiansand and Environs.

The Saetersdal.

Hotels. 'Ernst's Hotel, Vestre Strand-Gade. close to the steamboat-
pier and the custom-house (German landlord), I!, from 2 kr., A. 40 0.,
D. 272 kr.; 'Victoria Hotel, Skipper-Gade, 3 min. from the quay, E. lV->-2.
I). 2 kr., B. 80 0. ; Skandinavia, Dronningens-Gade , small and unpre-
tending. — The small number of dram-shops is due to the system men-
tioned at p. 70.

Boat to or from the steamboats, the larger of which do not lay to
at the pier, 13 0. for each person, 7 0. for each trunk.

Porterage from the landing-place to the custom-house 20 0. for each
trunk; from the custom-house, or from the landing-place, to one of the
three hotels, 33 0. for each trunk.

Post Office, Kongens-Gade 26. — .Telegraph, Vestre Strand-Gade IG.

Sea Baths adjoining the OH era. a small island at the E. end of the
Strand-Gade (ferry 3 #.), reserved for ladies 10-12 a.m. (hath 40 0.). Warm
and Shower Baths adjoining the public gardens, near the church (40-60 0.).

British Vice-Consul, Mr. Ferdinand Reinhardt.

Steamers to Chrhliania daily, to Stavanger and Bergen almost daily,
to Throndhjetn 4 times weekly, to Tromxo 3 times, to Hammer '/est twice,
and to the North Cape, Varda, and Vadsa once weekly. Also to Gothen-
burg fortnightly, to Fredrikshavn in Denmark thrice weekly, to Copen-
hagen weekly, to Hamburg twice weekly, to London fortnightly, to Hull
weekly, to Leith fortnightly, and to Amsterdam. Small local steamers ply
daily to Ronene and Boen on the Topdalselv, and to Mosby on the Otteraa.

Christiansand, with 13,000 inhab., the largest town on the S.
coast of Norway and the residence of one of the Ave Norwegian
bishops, is beautifully situated at the mouth of the Otteraa, or Tor-
risdals-Elv, on the Christiansand Fjord. The town is named after
Christian IV., by whom it was founded in 1641, and is regularly
laid out, with streets intersecting at right angles. It possesses an
excellent harbour, at which all the coasting steamers and others
from England, Germany, and Denmark touch regularly. Near the

40 Route 6. CHRISTIANSAND.

centre of the town, surrounded by pleasant promenades, is the
Cathedral, rebuilt in the Gothic style after its destruction by tire
in 1880. It contains an altar-piece by Eilif Petersen. — To the E.
is a wooden bridge leading across the Otteraa to the church of
Oddernas and the Hamreheien, a good point of view.

Environs. The situation of Christiansand is picturesque, and
a day or two may be pleasantly devoted to excursions in the en-
virons. One of the favourite walks (1 hr. there and back) is on the
Ottere, a rocky and partially wooded island at the E. end of the
Strand-Gade, about 8 min. from the hotels (ferry 3 ».). The baths
(p. 39) lie to the right. The path in a straight direction passes the
Seamen1 8 Hospital and leads round the whole island (40 min.), com-
manding beautiful views of the town and fjord. — On the Mandal
road, on the W. side of the town, i/4 hr. from the hotels, lies the
pretty Cemetery. Immediately opposite to it (to the right) is a path
ascending the hill and leading to the (20 min.) *Ravnedal, a wood-
ed and grassy dale, at the (l/4 hr.) upper end of which is the
ltavnehei, a fine point of view, reached, by a flight of wooden
steps. Below are a small fountain, a pond, and a cottage (Rfmts.;
view). We descend to the W. to (V4 hr.) the Ssetersdal road and
follow it back to the town, passing (10 min.) the cemetery. —
About 21/-2 M. to the W. of Ravnedalen lies Oraamandsheien (810 ft.),
which affords an extensive view. — On the right bank of the
Otteraa, 21/^ M. farther up, is Oddersjaa, commanding a charming
view of the river, its mouth, and the sea. — Farther up the river,
about 7 M. from Christiansand, lies Kvarsten, to which steamers
ply almost daily in 1 hr. It is 2 M. from the Guard Vigland, near
which are the Hundsfos and the Ilelvedesfos , two picturesque
waterfalls (half-a-day's excursion from Christiansand). — Steamers
ply twice daily from Christiansand up the Topdalsfjord, the pro-
longation of the Christiansford towards the N., to Ronene and Boen,
on the Topdals-Elv (there and back 21/l!-3 hrs.). — A trip by boat
may be taken to the (10 Kil.) lighthouse on the Oce ('Oxefyr), with
its meteorological station.

From Christiansand to Ekersund (200 Kil. or 124 Engl. M.). A
good, but hilly road, running near the coast, and crossing several fer-
ries, leads from Christiansand to Kkersund, traversing beautiful scenery
nearly the whole way. Almost all the stations on the route are 'fast', the
most important being (48 Kil.) Mandal, (55 Kil.) Fedde, (59 Kil.) Ei.de, and
(34 Kil.) Ekersand (p. 43). The steamboats perform the voyage to Eker-
sund in 12-15 hrs., while the journey by land, which very few travellers
undertake, occupies 3-4 days.

The Ssetersdal. A visit from Christiansand to the Satersdal, a valley
running to the N., 238 Kil. (148 Engl. M.) in length, watered by the Ot-
teraa, is interesting not only for its picturesque scenery but also for the
primitive character of the inhabitants, who cling tenaciously to their old
dress and customs. As most of the stations are almost deserted in the
height of summer, when the inhabitants are engaged in pasturing their
cattle among the mountains Cpaa Ileja'), the traveller should endeavour
to visit the valley either before 24th June or after 15th August. The
expedition is at the best of times accompanied with some privations

S.ETERSDAL. 0. Route. 41

f^f^.l11^ Khl'iStia-n/-ands.og °Plands Turistforening' is endeavouring to
S"ea * ^.Providing night-quarters (at Firtnue. "ose, Helle ByWuui
Breive, and Bjaaen) and in other ways. It is, however, prudent to be

TriiofrnWPvhaaa?10deraie'-apply °f Pre3e™ed meat, biscuisf and brandy
the journey as far as Breive is accomplished by stolkiierre bv steam

iai as viken. II 0. per horse and car per kilometre.

I. Day Drive to (10 Kil.; pay for 11) Mosby (to which a steamer nls,,

UJXjV^XLZ" of the *"*•'« (505 «■>• ^ « •*» -

II. Day. By steamer (daily, except. Sun. &. Thurs.) in 2 hrs to Fai-H
wgnneSos (accommodation) at the^N. end of the Kilffford which is
iOK.l.in length. Drive to (14 Kil.) Guldsmedmoen (Inn of Capt Hansen)

confS nf ?e S" C1d °f the 4W'«»<*«0°**, a lake about 3bP Kil W
consisting of two parts, separated by a short river (the OttevatA will
locks to facilitate navigation1; The lower lake, some imes Ca edThe J (^
dalsvand, extends as far as (23 Kil.) Stvemmen about 3 Kil above i" •

If thePSe oT °the wae,i°CkS' ^KU- l0,Ve' te™inates « Httle bdow o"l
it the state ot the water permits, small steamers ply thrice weekly be-
tween &uldsmedmoen and Ose (in 4 hrs.), on Sum going to Km only
The traveller may therefore have to drive from nJs to (17 KU)0 e-

li Kin ofeeamei' d06-S L,"0!, SUU\ the Wh0]e w^ from G-ldsmedm ,en to
( i}l ?S.e;- 0r P°sslbly fte whole way from Kile to (79 Kil 1 Ose \
new hotel is m progress at Bygland, about halfway. GumwDrenalen\
quaint old house at Ose, near which is the church ot Mesial afford " *n"d
quarters (small collection of national costumes, etc.) "

from^h^lf'n ^1ye -t0 (2° Ki!°- Helle ' BylUMtad (tolerable quarters),
nJi? <s» fatiguing mountain-track leads to the Lysefjord (p 46)

near Stavanger (2 days; guide desirable, 12-14 kr.). Drive from Helle to
ersda ° T^boH^'VV"1' »*"«»0 > '"""ted /n the heaH of ft"s.. "
teisaal. Ihe bottom of the valley is tolerably well cultivated hut th-
IhZT^ -illS "? extremel5' ^rren. T^GaardRUj adjoining £e
S '.' ?SftMf."?i ln 6reSt "Selection °f antiquities. Before reach n"
.<4<U/e, a, little farther on, it is worth while descending to the river tT,
inspect the curious JaMeyryder, or 'giant cauldrons', 6 8 f t deep wli Jh
have been formed by the action of the water. On the opposite bank He,

f&ftf^LvlZPaV™*' T" !Tting With ^atX^meSton1 d
jeaas to the Lysefjord (2 days; guide advisable, 12-14 kr ) — From Aakre
a rough bridle-path, called the Bispevei, lead, to the E to f 12^13 I hr,1

Veir* ham"eeten6 KiW ?S %° ^7T"' ab0Ut 6 ™"' * ° ^ t -d"
sta ok fcomn t, V, i.- h6/'' a ilttle beyond whi"h is tlle W«?eH,

R^,iHP; P' «, ' ^°rSe and man from Aakre *" Veum about 14 kr 1
- Beyond Aakre the Saatersdal road narrows to a bridle-path Viken as
already mentioned, is the last fast station. P '

» t^-'Dat" Drive by a good new road via Bjemeraa (eood auarter,
moda«rateoa^r,and ^A"' 1° (3 Kih) *'*'« or A,«l (1800 ft. ^accom-
u^/tat to'lbf %L%% fp^ ^^^ «» ™^ «»«•

row^pDtMs l?kpe« v^ f7I? B.ykle '° m KiI-) the *«**>«**, and
S^torcLi I . i^ i( \ l0ng.) t0 'B''e""! or *■"»''*, at the head of the
but i^if^l n6ly gaai'5 ' P^^quely situated, and affording rough,

d^W^Tmed'h0^/ family of Lapps' with about 1&X) -1n!

^.^^^^^f^rik SarCnV^r 1^
t,,r r„V^? a,Tery e"'y nour- be may cross the imposing Meienfjeld (4000 ft )
ii ft ZeluJ^, fit?''*™1 U KU" and thence go on to «»-
of IMU^S P. X. ' a ''°Ugh Und fatiSUiBg WaJk °r Hde

7. From Christiansand to Stavanger.

Excursions from Stavanger.

The distance from Christiansand is officially stated at 31 Norwegian
sea-miles (219 Kil. or 136 Engl. M.), but the course of the steamer is
considerably longer. The distances given below are from station to sta-
tion. Steamboats, of different companies, ply daily in 18-20 hrs. (fares
28 kr. 40, 21 kr. 30 0.; to Bergen, 36 kr. 80, 2T kr, 60 <*.). As the voyage
is often very rough, particularly the latter part, from Ekersund to Sta-
vanger, many travellers prefer taking their passage to Ekersund only
(12 hrs. from Christiansand), and proceeding thence to Stavanger by railway.

The voyage from Christiansand to Stavanger by the Larue Steamers
presents comparatively few attractions, as the coast is very imperfectly
seen from the steamboat, but the entrance to the Flekkefjord and some
other points are very imposing. The vessel's course is at places protected
by islands (Skjar). but is often entirely without such shelter, particu-
larly off Cape Lindesnses, on the coast of Listerland, and near Jaederen.
The small Local Steamers are of course much slower and call at a great
many unimportant stations, but they afford a good view of the curious
and interesting formations of the coast. The coast-line is broken by
numerous valleys descending from the 'Oplcmd' and terminating in long
and deep fjords. These valleys are usually watered by rivers which
frequently expand into lakes, and they afford a means of communication
between the Kijstfolk, or dwellers on the coast, and the Oplandsfolk, who
differ widely from their seafaring and trading countrymen in character,
dialect, and costume. At the head of these valleys, which seldom offer
any attraction to the tourist, and barely even the necessaries of life, lie
huge tracts of barren mountains, spreading out into vast and rarely trodden
table-lands ( Fjeldridder) , and very rarely culminating in peaks or dis-
tinct summits. The bare rock-scenery of the coast is enlivened by a few
unimportant Ashing and trading towns nestling in the recesses of the
fjords, and by an occasional furnace for the smelting of ore brought down
from the interior. One of the principal branches of trade is the export
of mackerel and lobsters to England. The former are packed in ice.
while the latter are put alive into tanks (Brende) in the vessels con-
structed for the purpose, to which the sea-water has free access. If the
sea is moderately rough the lobsters rise and fall with the motion of the
vessel, and arrive in good condition; but if it is too smooth they sink to
the bottom of the tank and crush each other to death. Another native
product of considerable value consists of the numerous plovers' (Vile)
eggs found on the moors and sandhills of Jcederen, near Ekersund.

The first steamboat-station is —

32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Mandal (Ohm's Hotel; Kttvig's; English
vice-consul, Mr, T. F. Andorsen; telegraph-station), the southern-
most town in Norway, with 4000 inhab., consisting of Mandal,
Malmo, and Kleven, and situated partly on rocky islands. The har-
bour is situated at the last of these. The Mandals-Elv, which falls
into the fjord here, descends through a valley parallel to the Sretersdal
and through several lakes from the Aaserdal, the upper part of the
valley, 37 Engl. M. distant, a district inhabited by a very primitive
pastoral people. In summer they migrate to the neighbouring moun-
tains (tilfjelds or tilheis; heia signifying mountain-pasture), where
they spend several months in their miserably poor Fcelager, and
are not unfrequently attacked by bears. To the W. of the valley of
the Mandals-Elv are the parallel Vndal and Lyngdal valleys.

Beyond Mandal the steamer passes the mouth of the Undals-Elv
and the conspicuous lighthousefthe oldest in Norway, first establish-

EKERSUND. 7. Route. 43

ed in 1650) on Cape Lindesnses (formerly Lindandisnces, Engl.
Naze, Dutch Ter Neuze~), 160 ft. in height. The part of Norway to
the E. of an imaginary line drawn from Cape Lindesnses to the
peninsula of Stadt (p. 1 69) i s called Seindenfjeldske or 0stenfjeldske
Norge, that to the W. Vestenfjeldske Norye. The promontory is
united with the mainland hy the low Spangereid.

57 Kil. (351/4 Engl. M.) Farsund (Jahnsen's Hotel; Mr. P. I.
Sundt, English vice-consul ; telegraph-station), a small seaport with
1500inhab., situated near the mouth of a fjord running inland in
three long ramifications , into the easternmost of which falls the
Lyngdals-Elv. — Having now passed the southernmost part of the
Norwegian coast, extending from Christiansand to Farsund, the
steamboat steers towards the N., skirting the district of Lister.
with its lighthouse, passes the mouth of the Feddefjord on the
right, and enters the Flekkefjord, at the head of which lies —

44 Kil. (27i/2 Engl. M.) Flekkefjord (Wahl's Hotel; Mr. J. P. M.
Eyde, English vice-consul; telegraph-station), a prettily situated
seaport with 1700 inhab. and a sheltered harbour. To the S.E. lies
(6 Engl. M.) Fedde (p. 40) on the fjord of that name, into which the
Kvinesdal descends from the N.E., and to the N. runs the Siredal,
with the Siredalsvand (120 ft. ). a lake 16 Engl. .VI . long, the outlet of
which falls into the Lundevand, a long lake to the \V. of the Flekke-
fjord. — A little beyond the mouth of the Lundevand, from which
the Sira empties itself into the sea in the form of a cascade, is —

8 Kil. (5 Engl. M.) Ragefjord, the station for<So<7»irfaZ(Sluhoug's
Hotel), about 3 Engl. M. inland , in the neighbourhood of which
are several iron-mines worked by English enterprize.

21 Kil. (13 M.) Ekersund. — Hotels. Ellinksen's Hotel, on the
right, 4 min. from the pier and 8 min. from the railway-station , unpre-
tending, E. 1, 1). 2 kr.; Xxderen (Danielson), a similar house, in the market
near the station, English spoken; Salvesex's Hotel , all three well spoken
of. — Telegraph Station. — British Vice-Consul, Mr. S. Trybring.

Ekersund or Egersund, a town with 2800 inhab. and a porcelain
factory , lies in a singularly bleak and rocky region, at the S. end
of Jeederen, the flat coast-district extending between this point
and Stavanger. An excellent survey of the environs is obtained
from the rocky hill at the back of Ellingsen's Inn, with a pole on
the summit, reached in 25 min. by traversing a narrow street
opposite the railway-station , and ascending to the right past the
cemetery and a farm-house.

The Railway prom Ekersund to Stavanger (76 Kil., or
47 Engl. M., in 3>/4 hrs.; fares 4 kr., 2 kr. 48 0.), which traverses
this coast-plain, presents little attraction, the scenery being very
dreary as far as Sandnces , but is preferable to the steamboat if
the traveller is liable to sea - sickness. The chief stations are
(38 Kil.) Ncerbe, with a telegraph-station, (62 Kil.) Sandna>3 (tele-
graph-station), prettily situated at the head of the Stavanger Fjord
(comp. the Map), and (77 Kil.) Stavanger.

44 Route 7. STAVANGER.

The Steamboat on leaving Ekersund passes the Ekere, a large
island protecting the harbour, with a lofty iron lighthouse. The
coast is flat and dreary, and the water generally rough owing to the
absence of theSkjaergaard, or belt of islands. The steamer steers
towards theN., passing the Jaderens Re v ('reef'), a sandy promontory
forming the westernmost point of Jaederen, and the mouth of the
Hafsfjord, where Harald Haarfager ('fair hair') gained a decisive
naval victory in 87'2, which gave him the sovereignty of the whole
country , and which released him from a vow , taken ten years
previously, not to cut his hair until he should be king of all Nor-
way. A little farther on, the vessel turns to the E. and passes the
Tungences, a promontory with a lighthouse, forming the N. extrem-
ity of the peninsula in which Jaederen terminates.

89 Kil. (55 Engl. M.) Stavanger. — Hotels. Gkand Hotel, well
sunken of, landlord speaks English; "VYesn-ms; Scandinavie; Nielses, small.
— B/ergsted's Garden Restaurant (concerts frequently).

British Vice- Consul, Mr. Lars Berentzen. English money may he
changed here.

Xymarm's Sea Baths. — Norsk Turistbureau (p. 70), Xedre Holme-Gade,
near the steamhoat-quay. — Telegraph Office.

Stavanger, an important commercial town, with about 24,000
inhab., picturesquely situated on a branch of the Bukkenfjord,
possesses two harbours, Vaagen, facing the N.W., and 0stervaagen,
a smaller bay separated from the other by a peninsula called
Hoimen, on which rises Valbjerget, an eminence commanding a
tine view. The town is one of the most ancient in Norway, dating
from the 8th or 9th century, but as it has suffered very frequently
from fires it now presents quite a modern appearance. Many of the
houses are now built of stone. At the upper end of the Vaag lies
the Torn or market-place, beyond which rises the Cathedral, and near
the 0stervaag is the modern Petrikirke. Fish is the staple com-
modity of the place, and the herrings, which for a time had almost
entirely deserted this part of the coast, have of late reappeared.

The * Cathedral, the most interesting building in Stavanger,
and the finest church in Norway after the cathedral of Throndhjem,
was founded by Bishop Reinald , an English prelate, at the end of
the lith cent, and dedicated to St. Swithin (Suetonius, Bishop of
Winchester, d. 862). It is about 250 ft. in length , and 70 ft. in
width. In 1272 the church was burned down, but it was soon after-
wards rebuilt in the Gothic style. After the Reformation it was
sadly disfigured by alterations, but since 1866 it has been restored,
under the superintendence of Von der Lippe of Bergen, as far
as possible to its original condition. The nave is separated
from the aisles by massive pillars of early Norman or Byzantine
character , which belong apparently to the original edifice. The
handsome Gothic Choir, which adjoins the nave without the inter-
vention of a transept, probably dates from the 13th century. The
choir is flanked with four towers, two at the E. end, and two

STAVANGER. 7. Boute. 45

smaller ones at the W. ead, and terminates in a large and effective
E. Window. On each side of the church are two handsome Portals,
one entering the aisle, and another the choir. The Pulpit (Pradi-
kestol) of the 11th cent, and the ancient Font (Debefont) are also
worthy of inspection.

The neighbouring Kongsgaard, once the residence of the bish-
op, whose seat was transferred to Christiansand in 1685, is now
occupied by the Latinskole, with a handsome old Chapel (Munke-
kirke). On the banks of the adjacent Bredvand, a small lake, are
pleasant promenades.

To the N. of the cathedral are the Brandrngt, formerly the
Marienkirke, and the Sparbank, or savings-bank, the building of
which contains the picture-gallery of the Kunstforeningen (open
Wed. and Sun., 11-1). In the opposite direction, about7miu.
from the cathedral, is the Railway Station. — Ascending the Peders-
bakke, we may next glance at the modern Petrikirke, and crossing
the Nytorv , visit the Spilderhaug Docks, beyond which lies the
Hetlandsmark with the Vor Fruekirke.

A beautiful Walk may be taken to the Belvedere Tower (Udsigts-
liiarn) on Vaalandspiben, to the S.W., and another to the Vllen-
hauge, farther to the W. , at the foot of which is a famous Fish-
breeding Establishment (Fiskeudklatknings- Apparater ; trifling fee
for admission). The road to the Parodies, a pretty private garden,
affords a good view of the harbour.

An interesting Excursion may be taken to Sole , a village on
theW. coast of Jaederen, about 7 Engl. M. to theS.W., with a ruined
church (said to date from 1000 ; now a studio), where the peculiar
character of this coast may be inspected. We may then return by
the E. bank of the Hafsfjord (p. 44), cross from Gaard Meling to
Malde, and regain the town by another road.

The Stavanger Fjord.

Stavanger is the commercial centre of the district of Byfylke and the
numerous islands of the extensive Bukkenfjord, which is bounded on the
W. by the Karme, and on the N. by the long peninsula of which Hauge-
sund forms the westernmost point. The chief ramifications of the fjord
are the Stavanger or Oans Fjord, the Helefjord, and the Lyse/jord on
the S., the Hjesenfjord on the E., and the Sandsfjord (dividing into the
Hylsfjord and Saudefjord) , the Sandeidfjord (with its ramifications the
Vindefjord and Yrkefjord), and the Grindefjord on the N. — Most of these
fjords are in the form of narrow ravines several miles in length, bound-
ed by lofty and precipitous mountains rising abruptly from the water,
at the foot of which lie deposits of debris at rare intervals, affording but
scanty space for the dwellings of the sparse population of the district.
At places, however, the banks are of a flatter character and well culti-
vated, presenting a smiling and picturesque contrast to the forest with
which the lower slopes are generally clothed, and to the frowning rocks
and glistening snow of the higher mountains in the background. Several
of these fjords are regularly visited by steamers from Stavanger (see below).

Steamboats. The following are the chief routes, but no plan should
be settled until the most recent 'Communicationer' (under No. 236) have
been carefallv consulted.

46 Route 7. LYSEFJORD. Recursions

To Sand (p. 47) un the Sandsfjokd on Monday (10 a.m.), Thursday
(tl.30 a.m.), and Saturday (2 p.m.) in 41/2-8 hrs. All the boats go on to
Saude nr Sevde on the Saudefjord, whence they start for Stavanger, via
Sand, on the following morning (Sat. boat on Mon.). The Thurs. boat goes
on from Sand to Hylen on the Hyltfjord. These boats touch at Jelse
or JcelM (p. 47), both in going and returning.

To Sakdeid on the Sandeidfjokd on Monday (noon) and Thursday
(10 a.m.), in about 8 hrs. Both return the next day, starting at 4 a.m., the
first touching at Jelse (Ja'lse) on the way back only, the second on the
way out also.

The steamers to Bergen (p. 50) 'merely cross the Bukkenfjord without
penetrating into any of its recesses.

a. The Lysefjord.

An excursion from Stavanger to the Lysefjord, the grandest
fjord on the S.W. coast of Norway, occupies 2-3 days, and is
attended with some fatigue and privation , unless , as sometimes
happens, an excursion-steamer runs from Stavanger to Lyse and
back in one day. The excursion-steamer may be hired by private
parties.

The small steamer 'Oscar II.' plies from Stavanger to Fossan
on Tues., Thurs., & Sun., in 2 hrs. ; or the traveller may take the
train to Sandnces (p. 43; 'o hr.), and drive thence to ("24 Kil.)
Hale or Hegsfjord (3-4 hrs.). Tolerable quarters may be procured
at Hele. Here we hire a boat with two or more rowers (15-20 kr.
for the whole excursion) and cross the Herlefjord to (5 Kil.) Fos-
sun and the church of Ojese, at the entrance to the Lysefjord, on
the S. side, where we may visit a large moraine which led Esmark,
a Norwegian savant, about the year 1821, to the conjecture that
the whole country was once covered with glaciers. (See Forbes's
Norway, Edin., 1853; p. 239.) We then enter the *Lysefjord, a
wild and almost deserted arm of the sea, 500-2000 yds. in width,
23 Engl. M. long, and at places 1400 ft. in depth, and enclosed by
precipitous rocky mountains upwards of 3000 ft. high. At the head
of the fjord lies the hamlet of Lyse (poor quarters), surrounded by
imposing rocks, a little to the N. of which rises the Lysekam
(4500 ft.). A curious and unexplained phenomenon is sometimes
observed here. A crashing noise like thunder is heard, immed-
iately after which a gleam of light flashes horizontally over the
surface of the fjord, disappearing halfway across. The noise and
light are believed to proceed from a kind of cavern in the face of
the rock at least 2000 ft. above the fjord, and inaccessible except
by means of ropes from the top of the mountain (1000 ft. above it).
,See Vibe's 'Meer und Kiisten Norwegens' (Gotha, 1860.)

From Lyse to Helle in the Ssetersdal, a very rough and fatiguin°- walk
of two days, see p. 41.

b. The Sandsfjord and Hylsfjord.
As above mentioned three steamers weekly run from Stavanger
to Sand On the Sandsfjord and to Saude, one going on to Hylen.

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from Stavanger. SAND. 7. Route. 47

The steamer starting on Thurs. calls at Seholmen, Skartcedt, Hoik,
and Jerstadvaag. The others call at Tau (15 Kil. to the N.E. of
Stavanger ; path thence past the Bjereimvand and the TysdaU-
vand to Bergeland in the Aardal; 6 Kil. ahove Bergeland is the
picturesque Hjaafos), Fister, and Hjelmeland on the mainland.
15etween Tau and Fister opens to the right the Aardalsfjord, which
is visited by the Monday boat from Sand to Stavanger. Hjelme-
land lies at the mouth of the Hjesenfjord, a long inlet somewhat
resembling the Lysefjord in character. From the head of that
fjord a rough and fatiguing route crosses the mountains in 2 days
to Valle in the Saetersdal (p. 41).

All three steamers touch at Jfelstf or Jelse (Inn) on the main-
land (3-5 hrs. from Stavanger), at the mouth of the Sandsfjord, a
village of some importance, with a church and an excellent har-
bour, where the large coasting steamers also touch. We now enter
the Sandsfjord, and in 1 1/2 hr. more reach —

Sand (*Kaurhus ; Rasmussen; Marvig), at the mouth of the
Laagen, which descends from the Suledalsvand, 20 Kil. distant.

The Thursday steamer goes on from Sand into the *Hylsfjord,
an eastern ramification of the Sandsfjord, Teaching Hylen (good
quarters) at the head of the fjord in 1^4 hr. more (6 hrs. from
Stavanger). From Hylen to Vauge on the Suledalsvand (1 hr.), a
very picturesque walk of ll/2-2 hrs., crossing the lofty Hylsskar
(1 hr.), where we stand on a narrow ridge, a few feet only in
width, and enjoy a magnificent view of the lake below.

c. From Sand to Roldal and Odde via the Suledalsvand.

This easy and attractive route, forming a delightful approach to the
Haedancekfjokd (less interesting in the reverse direction), occupies l-l'/i
day. Heavy luggage should be sent direct from Stavanger to Odde or
Bergen by steamboat. — The skyds-stations are all fast except Sand, where
previous notice is necessary.

Sand, see above. AVe engage a carriole here for Osen (2 kr.
47 0.). The good road ascends the somewhat uninteresting valley
of the Laagen or Logen, which forms several waterfalls. Both the
river and the Suledalsvand, out of which it flows, abound with
salmon and have been leased for 40 years by some English anglers,
whose handsome residences are seen at Sand, at the Skotifos, and
near the church of Suledalen. About 5 min. after leaving Sand we
pass the Sandfos and in 40 min. more the hill of Juvo ; to the left
are the Grovfos and the Skotifos. The road crosses the river 1/2 nr-
farther on and leads along the level right bank. Fine view in front.

The church of Suledalen and the fast station of Melius lie to the
left. In 50 min. more we reach Osen (*H6tel Suldal, B. 1, B. 1,
S. 1, D. I1/2 br.), 191/2 Kil. from Sand, situated on the right bank
of the Logen, at the point where the stream issues from the lake.
Travellers coming in the opposite direction find carriages here and
do not need to go on to M«hus.

48 Route 7. 'SJES. Excursions

The narrow an<l solitary Suledalsvand is now traversed daily,
except Wed. and Sat., by a steamer leaving Osen in the morning
and Nces in the afternoon (2-21/2 lirs.) At other times a small boat
may be hired (with three rowers 7!/2 ^r. ; 3V2-4 hrs.). Opposite
Osen rises the curious rocky pyramid of Straabekollen. At first the
lake is not wider than a river. To the right lies the gaard of Vik, to
the left Vegge. At this point there is no visible outlet ahead. To
the left is Kolbeinsthveit, where the road ends ; to the right is Hel-
gena>s. We then traverse the rocky defile of *Porten, where the im-
posing cliffs to the left rise to a height of over 300 ft. The lake
now suddenly expands. In a wide bay to the right are the exten-
sive farms of 0iestad and Kiildal; on the opposite bank, farther on,
lie Vorvik and Vaage (goodaceommodation; steamboat and. slow skyds
station). Vaage lies about II/2 M. below the Hylsskar (p. 46) and
is connected with (3l/v M.) Hylen by a pleasant bridle-track (comp.
p. 47). We now enjoy a view of the central reach of the lake,
which is divided into five sections with a total length of 18 Engl.
miles. To the left, high up, lies Laleid. In front we obtain a good
view of the curiously rounded and polished promontory of Bos-
haugen and of the mountains to the N. To the S.E. rise the snow-
clad Kalle-Fjeld and the long Kvenne Heia. — The steamer usually
goes no farther than Naes, but if required will carry travellers on to
(2'/2 Engl. M.) Roaldkvam (tolerable accommodation), at the ex-
treme upper end of the lake, whence toilsome mountain-paths cross
to the Haukeli Salter (p. 29 ; 13 hrs.) and to Breive in the Saters-
dal (p. 41).

Naes (Nils Ljone's Hotel, on the lake, K. 1, B. 1, S. 1 kr., clean,
beds not firstrate ; Erik Qauteturis Hotel, new) lies at the beginning
of the new road to Rtfldal. The small skyds-station is 'fast', but
affords no accommodation.

The road first leads through a magnificent *Eavine, with over-
hanging rocks and waterfalls ; at places it has been formed by blast-
ing the living rock and at one point it passes through a tunnel.
Farther on the valley is less interesting. At the gaard of Thomas,
about 5'/2 Kil. from Nses, the road crosses to the left bank of the
Bratlands-Elv, a stream descending from the Reldalsvand ; it next
passes the gaard oiBratland. To the left is a lofty waterfall. Farther
on we pass the gaards of 0rebakke, Selleland, fLrgerland, and Lien,
on the slope of the Kaalaas. Beyond a narrow ravine, through which
the Bratlands-Elv foams in a series of rapids, we cross the Hmger-
lands-Bro and regain the right bank of the stream. This part of the
route shows the most fantastic rock-formations, due to the ceaseless
energy of the river. The road now reaches the narrow Ljonevand,
skirts the gaard of Ljone, and crosses the bridge of that name. The
scenery here is very attractive. Above the small Hundefos, forming
the outlet of the Reldalsvand, towers a huge cliff, the surface of
which has been worn perfectly smooth.

to Stnrrtnger. SAUDEFJORD. 7. Route. 49

16 Kil. (10 Engl, M.) Botten or Botnen, a 'fast' station for both
horses and boats (no provisions), is situated at the S. end of the
Reldalsvand, a narrow lake, 5'/2 Engl. M. long, surrounded by a
ring of finely-shaped mountains. The road is being continued along
the lake to Reldal. At present the traveller performs this distance
by boat in ll/2 hr. (two rowers). The landing-place at Reldnl is
'^hr. from theskyds-stationof Gryting i Reldnl, mentioned at p. 30.

d. The Saudefjord.

The N. arm of the Sandsfjord is named the Saudefjord or
Sevdefjord. Its banks are attractive but do not vie in grandeur
with the main fjord. Saude or Sevde (*Rabbe's Hotel , in Gamle
Kirkebygden, R., B., D., and S. 1 kr. each), picturesquely situ-
ated at the head of the fjord, 19 Kil. from Sand, may be reached from
Sand by the steamer in ll/t hr. (twice weekly direct , once via
Hylen ; comp. p. 47) or by small boat with two rowers in 3-3*/2 "rs-
(fare 5 kr.). It is not a skyds-station , and horses are procured
with difficulty. Pleasant walks may be taken to the S.W. to the
pretty little Svandal; to the N.E. to (2 hrs.) Birkelansdalen, with
its well-made roads and large zinc-mines, which are said to be very
rich, though not worked at present; to the E., along the fjord, to
(35 min.) Indre Saude, with the parish-church and a view of the
Sendenaa-Fos, and thence to (10 min.) the bridge across the stream
descending from the Aabedal, which here forms the Hellandsfos.

From Saude through the Slettedal to Seljestad, l'/a day, the night
being spent at Aartun. This fine mountain-tour is somewhat toilsome
owing to the streams and marshes that have to be crossed. Horse and
guide to Aartun (4'/2 hrs.), 4 kr.; from .Aartun (where horses are more
easily procured) to Seljestad (10 hrs.), 10 kr. A guide and provisions are
indispensable for the part of the route between the sseter of Vier and
the Nya Seeter.

As far as the (3/4 hr.) bridge at the Hellandsfos, see above. The road
ends at Sstreim, 35 min. farther on. To the right rises the snow-clad
Skavle Nuten. In 10 min. more we begin the ascent; below, to the right,
flows the Stor Elv. Several points command charmingly varied views
of the N. part of the Saudefjord. In 1/4 hr. after beginning the ascent
we reach a bridge over the Fivellands Elv, in 25 min. more a saw-mill,
and then (10 min.) the gaard of Fivelland. After a climb of 50 min. more
the path turns to the N.E. and we obtain our last retrospect of 0streim.
The first view of Aartun and the N. end of the Store Lid-Vand, with the
lower part of the Suldalsfos, breaks upon us '/< hr. farther on. — About
50 min. later we overlook the whole basin of Aartun , forming a beau-
tiful green oasis, with houses, fields, stream, lake, and waterfall, in the
midst of the dreary grey expanse of the fjeld. At O/4 hr.) Aartun (clean
bed, with 'Fladbr0d', milk, and cheese, at the house of Christen Aartun)
we come in sight of the fine head of the Suldalsfos.

From Aartun we ascend rapidly for 10 min., passing a broad but low
waterfall (right), and then proceed to the N. into the Slettedal, following
the right bank of the stream. To the right (10 min.) is a lofty fall formed
by the Slettedals-Elv, which here issues from a gorge 3 M. in length.
We continue to ascend and in 25 min. obtain an extensive view of tin-
valley. We then descend for 10 min. and reach abroad, level, and
marshy part of the valley. — 10 min., to the right, on the left bank of
the stream, the sseter of 'Oiaden. — 1/4 hr. (rightl Reinattard Xutrrt. —

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 4

50 Route 7- SANDEIDFJORD.

20 min. Lias Setter, opposite which, to the E., the Bergedals-Elv forms
a waterfall and enters the Slettedals-Klv. — 25 min. Jndre Jore Sceter.
The monotony of the landscape is broken by numerous torrents (to the
left). — 65 min. Skridet Salter. In >/4 hr. more the valley becomes narrower,
wilder, and more imposing. To the left is a lateral valley encircled by
snow-clad mountains. We pass the sseter of Ornebu. In 3jt hr. more the
route bends to the E. and in other 3/i hr. it crosses the stream and reaches
the sseter of Vier. Before we reach the head of the valley, which forms a
kind of rocky amphitheatre with the sources of the stream, the path
(V2 hr.) turns to the N. and ascends rapidly. From the (1 hr.) top we
have a fine "Retrospect of the snow-draped Kirkenuten and the Slettedal.
In front of us lies a shallow basin containing the ice-bound Steenvand
and numerous other lakes and small ponds. The path is indicated by cairns
but is easily missed owing to the abundance of snow. We now descend,
obtaining (l'/4 hr.) a fine view in front. — From (40 min.) the Folgefond
(p. 55), somewhat to the left, we descend gradually , across a wide tract
of moorland with numerous ponds and past the Sya Sceter, to (l3/4 hr.)
a bridge crossing to the Rtfldal road. — 5 min. Seljettod, see p. 67.

e. The Sandeidfjord.

The steamers from Stavanger to the Sandeidfjord, like those to
the Sandsfjord, take different routes, both in going and returning.
At the mouth of the Sandeidfjord, on the left, lies Narstrand,
•where travellers desirous of proceeding direct from Saude to San-
deid (or vice versa) change boats (p. 49). Beyond Naerstrand the
steamer soon reaches the point where this fjord, running N. and
S., is intersected by the Yrke fjord to the W. and the Vindefjord
to the E., forming a complete cross, and recalling the form of the
Lake of Lucerne. On the right, near the mouth of the Vindefjord,
is Vikedul, a pretty place with thriving farm-houses, beyond which
we soon reach Sandeid (Fru Meidell's Inn, well spoken of), pleas-
antly situated at the head of the fjord (Ql/<i-21/<i hrs. from Sta-
vanger, according to the route taken by the steamer).

Travellers bound for the Hardanger should drive from Sandeid across
the 'Eid', or neck of land which separates the Sandeidfjord from the
Hardanger, to (8 Kil.) 0len (p. 54), where steamers touch thrice weekly.

8. From Stavanger to Bergen.

The direct distance by water from Stavanger to Bergen is 25 Norwegian
sea-miles (160 Kil. or 100 Engl. M.), but the course taken by the steamers
is considerably longer. In the following route the distances are given from
station to station. — Fkom Stavanger to Bergen there are usually eleven
steamers weekly, five being vessels of considerable size from Christiania,
and one from Hamburg, bound for Bergen or more distant places, while
live smaller steamers ply weekly between Stavanger and Bergen only. The
larger boats touch at Haugesund only, beyond which they proceed direct
to Bergen, either passing between the Bemmele and the Storde, or between
the latter and the Ttjsnase. The outer islands are mostly bare and rocky,
and of moderate height. The voyage by the direct steamers takes 8'/2-12 hrs.
One of the local boats, touching at Nwshavn on the W. coast of the Tys-
naese, performs the journey in 11 hrs. ; the others, pursuing the more in-
teresting course via, Tereen (p. 55), take 12-15 hrs.

Nearly the whole voyage by all these steamers is in smooth water,
their course being protected by islands , except for a short distance
between Stavanger and Kopervik, and between Haugesund and Lange-
vaag. The steamers are comfortably fitted up, but the sleeping accom-

HAUGESUND. S. Route. 51

modation is always very limited. Breakfast or supper is provided for
1-1 Va kr., dinner for 2-2l/2 kr. ; steward's fee about 50 0. per day. —
Lastly , it may be mentioned , that , as the fine scenery of the Har-
danger Fjord (R. 9), does not begin till Heruen and Terpen are approached,
the traveller loses little by going thus far at night.

The navigation of these western fjords of Norway, with their
innumerable rocky islands, winding channels, promontories, and
sunken Tocks , is exceedingly intricate , often demanding the ut-
most attention of the captains and pilots, whose skill the traveller
will have occasion to admire. Most of the captains speak English,
sometimes German also, and they are usually very obliging. — Nu-
merous lighthouses (Fyr) on both sides of the steamer's course are
passed between Stavanger and Langevaag, to the N. of Haugesund-

On leaving Stavanger the vessel steers towards the N.W. ; on
the left are the Duse-Fyr and Tungences-Fyr on the Randeberg ; to
the right the Hundvaage, the Mostere, the Klostere with the ruin-
ed Ulstenkloster, and beyond it the laTger Rennese and other is-
lands. On the left we next observe the lofty lighthouse on the
Hvitingse, beyond which the open and unsheltered mouth of the
Bukkenfjord is crossed (in about an hour). To the N.W. is the
lighthouse of Falnccs (Skudesnces). We next observe the small sea-
port (1100 inhab.) of Skudesnceshavn, with its lighthouse, to the
left, at the S. end of the Karme. The steamer now enters the
Karmsund. The first station at which the steamers usually stop is
Ferresvik, a village on the Bukkene.

44 Kil. (271/2 Engl. M.) Kopervik, or Kobbervik {Inn; tele-
graph-station), with 850 inhab., is one of the largest villages on
the Karme, a large and populous island, to which the herring-
fishery is a source of much gain. The island is nearly flat, and
tolerably well cultivated at places, but consists chiefly of moor,
marsh, and poor pasture-land, and is almost entirely destitute of
trees. It contains numerous barrows , or ancient burial-places,
especially near the N. end, some of which have yielded relics of
great antiquarian value. The climate, which is cool in summer and
mild and humid in winter, is exceptionally healthy, the average
annual death-rate being only 12 per thousand. — About 10 Engl.
M. to the W. of the Karme lies the small and solitary island of
Vtsire, with a chapel and a lighthouse.

On the left, about 4 Engl. M. beyond Kopervik, is the old
church of Augvaldsnces, adjoining which, and inclined towards it,
is an old 'Bautasten', 25 ft. in height, known as '■Jomfru Maria)
SynaaV (the Virgin Mary's Needle). Tradition says that when this
pillar falls against the church the world will come to an end. To the
N. of this point, on the opposite side of the 'Sund', are Ave similar
stones, popularly called the 'Five Foolish Virgins'. At the end of the
Karmsund, on the mainland, lies —

15 Kil. (9i/2 Engl. M.) Haugesund {Jonasseris Hotel; Olsen's;
telegraph-station)," locally known as Karmsund, with 5600 inhab.,

52 Route S. LERVIK. From Stavanger

a place of no interest, except as the supposed burial-place of Harald
Haarfager (d. 933), whose original tombstone is still pointed out.
On this spot, the Haraldshaug, a mound of earth a little to the N.
of the town, rises an Obelisk of red granite, 45 ft. in height, on a
square pedestal, around which are placed a number of stones, 9 ft.
in height, called, the Fylkestene, representing the Fylker, or dis-
tricts into which Norway was formerly divided. This monument,
called Haralds-Stetten , was inaugurated in 1872, on the thou-
sandth anniversary of Harald's victory on the Hafrsfjord, in conse-
quence of which the whole of the Fylker were united under his
sceptre. — A road leads from Haugesund to the E. to (48 Kil.)
0len (see below).

To the N. of Haugesund extends an unprotected part of the
coast, called Sletten, nearly 3 M. (19 Kil.) in length. Near the
N. end of this tract, about 1 hr. beyond Haugesund, is Lynghol-
men, where some of the steamers stop, the first station in Bergens-
Stift, or the province of Bergen, to the W. of which is the Ryvar-
dens-Fyr on a rocky island. "We now enter the Bemmelfjord , one
of the narrow inlets of the Hardanger (p. 54), passing the Bemmele
on the left, on which rises Siggen (1540 ft.), a hill known as one of
the 'towers' of Bergen. This district is called the S«nd-Horland,
the natives of which are known as Seringer. Picturesque moun-
tains in the background. Some of the steamers next stop at Tjer-
nagel, on the mainland, 2M. (12 Kil.) farther on, others at Lange-
■raag, on the Bemmele, opposite.

36 Kil. (221/2 Engl. M.) Mosterhavn, the next station, on the
Mostere, boasts of a church built by Olaf Tryggvason (995-1000),
the oldest in Norway but of no architectonic interest. — From this
point onwards, comp. the Map.

12 Kil. (7!/2 Engl. M.) Lervik, a station of some importance
(telegraph-office), where passengers to and from 01en-Fjaere (see
below) change steamers. It lies at the S. end of the Storde, one
of the largest of the islands at the entrance to the Hardanger. The
well- wooded Halsene, an island to the E., contains part of the
buildings of a Benedictine monastery, founded probably in 1164.
Several barrows in the vicinity.

The' Aalfjord, with Rekenws and Vikevik, and the Skoneviksfjord,
extend S. and S.E. of Lervik respectively and are visited by steamer only
once or twice weekly.

On the mmfjord , a branch of the Skoneviksfjord , lies 01en ("Inn,
skyds-stationj, 8 Kil. from Sandeid (p. 54), and visited 4 imes weekly by
steamer. A steamer starts hence for Bergen (and for Stavanger ■ change
at Lervik or Seminariet) on Tues. and Frid. mornings. Anothe'r calls here
on its way to Fjffire (see below) on Mon. morning, and on its way back
to Vikevik (see above) on Thurs. afternoon. (This last steamer is of no
importance to tourists.) — The Mon. and Thurs. steamers (see above) also
touch at Etne, at the head of the Etne-PolUn, whence a mountain - path
leads direct to (ca. 50 Kil.) Seljestad (p. 30), a verv fatiguin» wait ..f
11-12 hrs. ' °

Eastwards from the Skoneviksfjord runs the Aakrefjord with the
steamboat-statiuus Aakre and (at the head of the fjord) Fjsere'(liad uuar-

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to Bergen. TER0EN. S. Route. 53

tcrs). Hence a bridle-path (practicable for cine-horse vehicles) crosses
the mountains, amidst imposing scenery, via Rullestad (scanty accommo-
dation) and VMertun, in 6-7 hrs. to (18 Kil.) Gaard Jesendal (fair quarters),
situated between Seljeslad and Hildal on the road to Odde (see p. 30) ;
a little beyond Vintertun a branch of the track descends to the right
direct to Seljestad (p. 30; comp. the Map, p. 54).

Beyond Lervik the direct steamer traverses the Bemmcl-Fjord
and Kioster-Fjord, the latter named after the above-mentioned
monastery on the Halsen».

13 Kil. (8 M.) Sunde, situated on the E. side of the Husnms-
Fjord , on the peninsula of Husnas. Travellers bound for the
Hardanger Fjord have often to change steamers here (comp. p. 54).

Her«en(7nn, well spoken of), a small island opposite Helvik, is
an important station, as most of the steamers to the Hardanger, both
from Stavanger and from Bergen, as well as several of those plying
between Stavanger and Bergen, touch here (see p. 54). The scenery
now becomes more interesting ; the mountains are higher and less
barren, and on every side the eye is met with a picturesque pro-
fusion of rocks, islands, promontories, and wooded hills, enlivened
with bright-looking little hamlets nestling in sheltered creeks.

19 Kil. (12 M.) Terpen (Olsen's Inn), a little island and village
near the N. coast of the fjord, and to the E. of the large Tysncese,
is a very important station, six steamers running thence weekly to
Bergen, four into the Hardanger, and two to Stavanger. Travellers
have often to change boats here. The scenery is remarkably fine
here , especially as the snowy summit of the Folgefond (p. 55)
is now visible towards the E.

Near this point we quit the Send-Horland, the island and coast
district hitherto skirted, and enter the Nord-Horland, and it is
here that the Hardanger Fjord strictly speaking begins.

Beyond Tcraen the steamer passes through the Loksund, a very
narrow strait between the mainland and the Tysncese, offering
many attractions to artists, anglers, and others. The next station,
Einingeviken, lies on the Tysnaes», at the N. end of the strait;
beyond which is Godesund (Gullaksen's Inn, with sea-baths), on
a small island to the N. of the Tysnses#. The Bjernefjord is next
traversed. To the N. lies Os orOseren (Hansen's Hotel, well spoken
of; fast skyds-station), pleasantly situated on the Fusefjord and
forming a good starting-point for walks to Hatriken, the Ulven-
vand, the convent of Lyse, and other attractive points. The steamer
passes Lepse (to the right) and proceeds through the narrow Kro-
gene and the Korsfjord. To the right is the Lysefjord, with the
charming island of Lyse, now the property of the widow of the
famous violinist Ole Bull, which is a pleasant point for a day's ex-
cursion from Bergen via Nestun and Fane (see p. 78). On the W.
bank of the Lysefjord lies the ruined convent of Lyse, dating from
1146 ; the church has been dug out of the sand with which it had
been covered. On the N. the Lysefjord is bounded by the peninsula

54 Route 9. HARDANGER FJORD.

of Korsnas. To the left, a little later, is the lighthouse of lilar-
stenfyr, apparently rising directly from the sea. Then Bukken, a
small island between the mainland and the Sartore. The scenery
on this part of the voyage is less attractive than at the mouth of
the Hardanger. Bergen comes in sight as the steamer rounds Kvar-
ren, the N. spur of the Lyderhom ; on the left (N.W.) rises the
mountainous Ashefe. 78). The first view of the town is very striking.
71 Kil. (44 Engl. M.) Bergen, 4>/2 hrs. from Tereen, 8'/2-15
hrs. from Stavanger, see R. 10.

9. The Hardanger Fjord.

Comp. the Maps, p. 52 (Outer Hardanger Fjord) and p. 54 (Inner Har-
danger Fjord), which join at the dotted line on the lower (western) side of the

latter.

From Stavanger to Odde on the Hardanger Fjord direct Steamboat
('Folgefonden') once weekly, starting on Sun. evening and taking 22 hrs.
to the passage (fare 15 kr.). The traveller may also take the same steamer
from Stavanger on Thurs. morning (on its way to Bergen), and disembark
at He-men, whence a steamer ('Hardangeren' ; from Bergen) plies to Eide
and Odde in the afternoon. Other pleasant ways of making this trip are
as follows: from Sandeid proceed to dlen (pp. 50, 52), and thence by
steamer to Tereen (p. 53); or, a particularly attractive route, from Sand
to Odde via, the Suledalsvand (p. 47).

From Bergen to the Hardanger Fjord there 'are six Steamboats weekly.
The Sun., Wed., & Frid. boats start at 8 a.m. and proceed direct to Odde
in 12-13 hrs. (ca. 8 kr.) ; the Sat., Tues., and Thurs. boats, starting re-
spectively at 9 a.m., 6 a.m., and 9 a.m., proceed first to Eide (in 14'/2, 18,
and 15 hrs.) and go on thence to (8V2 hrs.) Odde. A local steamer also
plies between TJlvik, Eide, and Odde. Comp. the "Sommer-Ruter for Har-
rtanger-Serndhordlandske Dampskibsselskahs Skibe 'Hardangeren', 'Folge-
fonden', 'Lyderhom', Sandhordland', 'Vikingen', og 'Hordaland' " (dis-
tributed gratis on the steamers named 1. or the 'Communicationer' (NToe.
210-245).

From Bergen via Vossevangen (railway) to Eide, see H. 11.

From Telemarken via the Haukeli-Sceter to Odde, see E. 4.

It need hardly be said that the traveller who performs the whole
journey to the head of the fjord and back by water cannot thoroughly
appreciate the beauties of the scenery. The favourite headquarters for
excursions are Eide, Utne, Ulvik, Eidfjord, Lofthus, and Odde. The inns
are generally good and reasonable, but are often full in the height of the
season (ending about Aug. 10th).

The *Hardanger Fjord, the main channel of which is subdivided
into the Kvindherredsfjord, the Htsfjord, the Ytre and Indre Samlen,
and the Ser fjord, runs from Tereen to the N.E. for about 50 Engl.
M. to Utne, where it turns suddenly to the S. to Odde, a distance
of 25 M. more (in all 75 Engl. M.). Opposite Utne diverge the
Graven and Eid fjords. The average breadth of the fjord is about
3 Engl. M., but the upper part of the Serfjord gradually narrows
to a width of a few hundred yards only. The scenery is justly
celebrated for its beauty and grandeur, and of all the Norwegian
fjords this is perhaps the most attractive on account of its variety.
It is enclosed by rocky and precipitous mountains 3000-5000 ft. in
height, between which and the sea fertile and thickly peopled dis-

HARDANGER FJORD. 9. Route. 55

tricts are often interposed , while the huge and spotless snow-
mantle of the Folgefond is frequently visible in the background.
The W. bank is much more varied in outline than the E. bank,
where the rocky heights skirt the fjord for miles in an almost un-
broken wall. To other attractions must be added two of the finest
waterfalls in Norway, hardly indeed surpassed in Europe, both of
which are easily accessible to good walkers. The population
(iHar(Bnger,J, too, and their national characteristics will interest
many travellers. Weddings here are still very picturesque festi-
vities, though generally falling short of Tidemand's beautiful
' Brudefard' . The bridal crowns and gold and silver trinkets (such
as the Selje, or Sylgja, a kind of brooch or buckle) are curious,
and the embroidery, coverlids (Slumretappcr), and carpets ( Tapper)
manufactured in this district are much sought after. The costumes
are seen to the best advantage on a Sunday morning before or after
divine service. The women, who wear the '/Sfcawt', a kind of cap
of white linen with stripes, and sometimes a picturesque red bod-
ice, may often be observed giving the finishing touches to their
toilet after landing from their boats to attend church. The primi-
tive mode in which public worship is conducted is very character-
istic. The national music and the six-stringed Hardanger violin are
also curious and interesting.

Tereen, see p. 53. The Hardanger Fjord begins on the E. side
of this island , whence a striking view is enjoyed of the *Folgefond,
with the Melderskin , Malmangernut, Kjeldhaug, and other spurs
descending from it. The Folgefond {Fonn or Fond, 'mass of snow' )
is an enormous expanse of snow and ice, 23 Engl. M. in length
and 3-9 M. in width , covering the plateau , 3000-5000 ft. in
height, which rises between the Hardanger Fjord on the W., the
Aakrefjord on the S., and the Serfjord, with the valley extend-
ing to the S. of it, on the E. side. Towards the S.E. the peninsula
of the Folgefond is connected with the mainland by an isthmus
16 Engl. M. in width (between Fjsere and Odde). The mountain
attains its greatest height (5425 ft.) immediately to the E. of the
Serfjord, from which it rises almost perpendicularly. On the W.
side the plateau descends gradually to the fjord. From the 'Fond',
the nearly level snowy roof of the mountain, descend glaciers (Jek-
ler, Blaabrceer) in every direction, resembling huge icicles, the best
known of which are the Bondhusbrce (p. 56) near the head of the
Mauranger-Fjord, a favourite subject with artists, and the Buarbrce
(p. 06) to the E. of Odde. From this vast expanse of snow protrude
several rocky peaks [Nuter, literally 'knots') of moderate height : on
the N. side Solnuten (4830 ft.) and Thorsnuten (5164 ft.), on the W.
Hundseret ('the dog's ear'; 5360 ft.), and on the E. Reinanuten
(5364 ft.) and Sauenuten. The best survey of the Folgefond from the
W. side is obtained from Tereen and the neighbourhood, and from
the E, side from the heights between R»ldal and Seljestad (p. 30).

56 Eoute 9. MAURANGERFJORD. Hardanyer

The stations are here enumerated in their usual order , but
some of the steamers do not touch at them all. The direct distances
from Tereen are prefixed to them.

Hereen, 41/4 Engl. M. (7 Kil.) to the S. of Tereen, seep. 53.
About 1 M. beyond Hereen, on the mainland, is Uskedal. To the
N. lie the long islands of 8korpen and Snilsthreit, and on the right
are the sombre slopes of the Solpeld.

11 Kil. (7 Engl. M.~) Demelsvihenflnn). To the E. towers the Mal-
mangernut (2880 ft.). We next reach the chateau and park of Ro-
scndal , beautifully situated at the base of the Melderskin (see
below), and belonging to the Barons Hoff-RosenkTone, who, how-
ever, were obliged to resign their baronial dignity on the abolition
of all titles of nobility in 1821. In the vicinity is the church of
Kvindherred. — A bridle-track leads through the Melsdal to the
Midtsctter and the Myrdalsvand, whence a steep, but tolerable path
ascends in 6 hrs. to the summit of the Melderskin (4680 ft.), which
commands an imposing survey of theFolgefond and the fjord down
to the sea. — An excursion through the narrow Hattebergsdal, con-
taining the Iiingerifos, as far as the foot of the Folgefond is also
recommended. — On the opposite bank of the fjord, about 1' '2 M.
(10 Kil.) from Rosendal, is Gjermundshaon, and 1 M. to the N.E.
of it is —

32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Skjelncvs, at the S. end of the large, but
uninteresting Varaldse. The strait on the E. side of the island is
called the Sildefjord , beyond which, on the mainland, lies the
church of AZnccs (unpretending quarters), at the foot of the Gygra-
stol (3116 ft.).

The Maurangerfjord, about S Engl. 31. in length, may be visited from
.Skjelnses or Mnxa by boat (4-6 kr.). On the right we observe the fine
waterfall of Fureberg. From Bondhus (tolerable quarters), near the head
of the fjord (a row of 2U. hrs. from Skjelnies), we walk in 2 hrs. to the
'Bondhusbr* (guide necessary), a magnificent glacier which descends from
the Folgefond, between the Selsnut and the Bonddcdsnut. It is reached bv
crossing a moraine ( Vor, Jelul-Vor), rowing over the small Bondhusvan'd
with a number of waterfalls descending from its precipitous banks, and
ascending across a second moraine. The foot of the glacier is 1050 ft.
above the fjord. Refreshments at the sitter here (up to the middle of Julv).
Guide (one of the rowers) or horse 1 kr. 60 0.

From 0re on the Nord- Pollen, the X. arm of the 3Iaurangerfjord, we
may visit the Sjerdals-Fos (there and back 5 hrs., guide 3 kr.). Instead
of returning we may go on from the Sjurdals-Fos over the mountains to
(8-10 hrs.) Jondal (p. 57).

From the SIaukanokkfjokd auhoss the Foloefond tu Ouoe (10-11 hrs.
in all). From Bondhus we row to (2 Engl. M.) Gjei-de, where accommod-
ation, horses, and guides (12-16 kr.) are to be had. The ascent to the top
of the pass is extremely steep, but the expedition presents no serious
difficulty or danger in suitable weather. After a fresh fall of snow (-nvsne').
however, it is impracticable. The summit of the pass, where the'route
skirts the Hiindser (p. 55), is about 5000 ft. high, bevond which there is
a steep descent to Tokheim near Odde (p. 65). — Another route, frequently
traversed of late, ascends from Bondhus by the Bondhusbree and descends
from the Folgefond to Odde along the Buarbrce (p. 66), but is more fatigu-
ing. (Comp. Forties's 'Norway'. Edin. 1853; pp. 130. el seq.) "

Fjord. JONDAL. '.). Route. 57

We now proceed through the Bondesund, passing Mundheim on
the left, to —

44Kil. (27V2Engl. M.J 0ierhavn, at the N. end of the Varaldse.
The broad part of the fjord extending from this point to Strande-
barm, 2 M. to the N., is called the Hlsfjord.

53 Kil. (33 Engl. M.) Bakke (*Inn), to the N. of which is the
church of Strandebarm, is beautifully situated on the "W. bank, in
the midst of gTand scenery. To the E. we observe the Myrdalsfos
and the Folgefond, to the N.W. the snow-clad Thveite Kvitingen
(4190 ft.), and to the N.E. the Vesholdo (3520 ft.). To the left
of the last is a foot-path , leading past the gaards of Haukaas and
Solbjorg and the saeter of Torahella , to Netland in the Steinsdal
(4-5 hrs. ; see below). The route along the bank of the fjord to
Sandven is, however, more attractive. — The steamer then steers
towards theE., enters a narrower part of the fjord, and stops at —

67 Kil. (42 Engl. M.) Jondal (Utne's Inn), on the E. bank,
14 Kil. from Bakke, with a bridge over the Elv. The scenery now
becomes less attractive. This place is locally famous for the ex-
cellence of its boats.

From Jondal a day's excursion may be made , with a guide (Samson
Underhaug or Nils Vigene; 3 kr.), to the "SjjBrdalsfos and the Juklevand.
We drive in 3/4 hr. to Birkeland , proceed thence on foot to the S. to
Freidalsstelen, (night-quarters), cross the Kvandalsvand by boat, and ascend
the Sjffrdalskar , which commands a view of the fall. About 1/2 hr.
farther on (6V2 hrs. from Jondal) is the "Jnklevandshorgen, which affords
a splendid view.

From Jondal a road ascends the Korsdal to (3 hrs.) Gaarden Flatebe
(1100ft.), grandly situated, and leads thence to the S. to the Jondalsbrw, near
the Dravlevand and Jeklevand ; and another path from the gaard crosses the
Folgefond to Bleie (JVaae) on the Serfjord (p. 64). The latter route leads
from Flateb0 to the N.E. to SJuscet, ascends steeply and describes a wide
bend towards the N., turns to the E., skirts the T/iorsmit (p. 55), and
passes the Saxaklep. The highest point of the route is 4510 ft. above the
fjord. Then a steep descent to the Rtisater (1080 ft.) and thence to Bleie
(Naae, p. 64; 8-10 hrs. in all; guide necessary).

Beyond Jondal the steamer passes several waterfalls, leaving
Jonarna>s on the right, and soon enters the Ytre Samlen-Fjord.
The scenery here is again very picturesque. The steamer crosses
to the W. side, passes Axences and the church of Viker, and enters
the Norheimsund, a beautiful bay, on which lies Norheimsund or
Sandven (Nils Sandven 's Hotel, E. 1,B. 1, S. 1 kr., D7Tkr760 e.J,
charmingly situated, and suitable for a prolonged stay. Sandven
commands an admirable view of the Folgefond , with the moun-
tain-spurs radiating from it. At the back of the village is the
Steinsdal , a pretty and well-cultivated valley, in which a good
road ascends to the (35 niin.) 0fsthusfos (from L0verste Hus'}, a
waterfall 150 ft. in height, a narrow path behind which passes
between the water and the rock. Some of the steamers stop for
several hours at Norheimsund , during which the fall may easily
be visited. — The Torenut (ca. 3300 ft.), to the N., easily ascended
via the Sjau-Sater in 5 hrs. , is a good point of view.

58 Route .9. VINE. Hardanger

Beyond the tffsthusfos the carriage-road ascends the valley, passing
the farms of Steine (tolerable quarters) and Birkeland, and ending at
(1 hr.) Wetland. From Netland we may walk by the route mentioned at
p. 57 to Strandebarm. Another path leads from Netland to the (472-5 hrs.)
Gaard Eikedal or Egedal, on the N. bank of the Eikedalsvand (1000 ft.),
and then descends precipitously past the picturesque Eikedalsfos, 285 ft.
in height, to the beautiful Frelandsdal (i Samnanger), in which, 6 Kil.
lower down, lies Tesse (Inn), on the Aadlandfjord, the N. branch of the
Samnanger-Fjord. The whole walk occupies 9-10 hrs. (guide necessary).
From Tjasse we cross in a small boat to (4 Kil.) Aadland (fast skyds-
station; new Hotel), whence a fine new road (view) leads to (11 Kil.)
Trengereid (M. Trengereid's Inn ; p. 78).

Beyond Norheimsund the steamer touches at 0stens», or Aus-
tesyn(Inn), on the adjoining bay, another pietty place which attracts
numerous summer- Yisi tors. A mountain-path leads hence to the
(4-5 hrs.) Hamlegrevand (1965 ft.), which affords good fishing.

To the W. of 0stens0 is a promontory (Nces) separating the bay of
J0stens0 from the very narrow and picturesque Fiksensund , an arm of
the fjord running towards the N. for a distance of 7 Engl. M., at the head
of which lies Gaarden Bolnen (reached by boat from 0stens0 in 3'/2-4 hrs.).
High up on the mountain-side beyond the Nses is seen a huge giant-basin
(Jwttegrpde), called Gygrereva (Gygr, 'giantess'), from the popular tradition
that a giantess standing on the mountain , and endeavouring to draw
several small islands in the fjord towards her, failed from the break-
ing of the rope, and caused this indentation by falling backwards.
— From Botnen a path (guide unnecessary), exceedingly rough and preci-
pitous at places, ascends the Flatebegjel (Qjel, 'rocky ravine') to the
(5 Kil.) Ldkedal steter and the top of the hill beyond it (2000 it.), after
which it leads across more level ground to the (6 Kil.) Vossestele (Stel,
'sseter') at the N.E. end of the Hamlegrevand, mentioned above. It then
descends by the course of the river issuing from the neighbouring Thor-
Jinvand (to the E.) to (6 Kil.) Gaarden Skjeldal, whence a good road leads
through pine-forest to (5 Kil.) Grimestad, at the>W. end of the Vangsvand.
Distance thence by road 12 Kil.. or by boat 9 Kil., to Vossevangen
(p. 78). This interesting route from J&stenstf to Vossevangen takes
12-14 hrs. in all.

Soon after quitting 0stens0 the steamei commands a view, to
the left, of the Indre Sarnlen-Fjord, a beautiful reach of the Har-
danger. It either steers straight across the fjord to (11 Kil.) Herand,
lying to the S. of the conspicuous and nearly isolated Samlehovd
or Samlekolle (2060 ft.), which may be ascended from Herand,
or, passing the mouth of the Fiksensund (see above), it skirts the
N.W. bank of the fjord and touches at (13 Kil.) Aalvi'k, near which
is the picturesque Melaanfos. In the former case , on leaving
Herand, it rounds the Samlehovd, touches at (14 Kil.) Vinas,
and passes Nesthammer. Whichever of these routes the steamers
take, they all stop at —

117 Kil. (7'2M.) TJtne(*/«n,- telegraph-station), beautifully
situated on the Vtnefjord, from which the Samlenfjord, the Gra-
venfjord, the Eidfjord, and the Ser fjord radiate towards the four
cardinal points of the compass. A path ascends through the charm-
ing valley at the back of the village to the (2'/2 hrs.) Hanekamb (3590
ft.), which commands an admirable survey of the Utnefjord Eide-
fjord, and Sflrfjord. The ascent of the Oxen (p. 59) is still more
interesting.

Fjord. EIDE. 9. Route. 59

From Utile the steamer generally steers due N. into the Gra-
venfjord, a narrow and somewhat monotonous arm of the fjord, at
the N. end of which, about 15 Kil. from Utne, lies —

129 Kil. (80 Engl. M.) Eide ^Mceland's Hotel, on the Tiver,
R. l1^, B. l1/^) IX 2, 'pens.' 6 kr.; *Jaunsen's, 5 min. from the pier ;
fast skyds-station , with telegraph-office), nestling prettily at the
foot of rocky and wooded mountains which leave it exposed on
the S. side only. Several of the neighbouring streams and small lakes
afford good trout-fishing. This is the most frequented place on the
Hardanger Fjord as a summer-residence, but the scenery is not very
striking. A very pleasant walk of V2 nr- mav *>e taken to the
beautiful Orauensvand to the N. — From Eide to (30 Kil.) Vosse-
vangen (carr. and pair 12 kr.; diligence daily), see pp. 78, 79.

From Eide to Ulvik (19 Kil., pay for 32), a magnificent ride or walk,
affording an admirable picture of Norwegian mountain-scenery (4-5 hrs. ;
guide unnecessary). Driving is inconvenient and at places almost im-
practicable. All superfluous luggage should be sent round by steamer
from Eide to Ulvik. From Eide the Vossevangen road leads to (4 Kil.)
Gravent-Kirke (p. 80), on the Gravensvand, where the route (which we
take) to Ulvik, extremely steep at places, diverges to the right. Travellers
may effect a saving of nearly an hour by taking (with guide) the bridle-
path past Gaarden Kjelland which unites with the road from Graven at
the Angerklev. Following this road to the right , we reach the highest
point of the route (about 1900 ft. above the fjord) between the Graa-
keller/jeld and the Grimtnut on the right and the Kvashoved on the left,
beyond which opens a magnificent -View of the Ulviksfjord. To the E.
rise the Onen , from which the Degerfos is precipitated to a depth of
upwards of 1500 ft., and the Balonefjeld, and to the N.E. the majestic
Vas-Fjaren (5350 ft.). On the descent to (f/4 hr.) Brakenas, which is
very steep at places, the scenery becomes still more picturesque, parti-
cularly at the Furuswter and Lindebrakke . On the hill, about 1/t hr. before
we reach Brakenses (see below), is "ViUemseiCs Hotel, beautifully situated,
and often full. Pretty waterfalls by the mill behind the church.

The direct route from Eide to Ulvik across the mountains just
described is about 12 Engl. M. in length, but by steamer the distance
is nearly double (22*/2 Engl. M.). It should be observed that some
steamers do not touch at Ulvik, so that it is sometimes necessary
to change at Eide. The steamer 'Vikingen' also plies daily between
Kide and Ulvik', calling at Vik i Eidfjord and on Thurs. at Odde
also. To the W. of the mouth of the Gravenfjord rises the Oxen
(4120 ft.), a mountain which may be ascended from the S.E. side,
and which commands a magnificent view of the Serfjord and the
lofty mountains to the E. On the S. slope is a Runic stone.

The steamer skirts the Oxen and enters the Eidfjord, the eastern-
most arm of the Hardanger. The banks are very rocky and abrupt.
Passing the innermost bay of the Eidfjord on the right, we next
enter the Osefjord to the N., with its imposing mountain-background.
This fjord also consists of two branches, divided by the low wood-
ed ridge of Osen, that to the right (N.E.) retaining the same name,
and that to the left (N.) being called the Vlaiksfjord ('Ulv-Vik',
wolfs creek). The latter is generally frozen over in winter.

165 Kil. (102 Engl. M.) Ulvik - Brakenass (*Sjur BrakenuS

60 Route 'J. OSEFJOUD. Hardanyer

Hotel, with baths, It. 1, D. 2, S. 1 kr.; Manderup Hjaltnces Hotel,
both near the fjord ; Daniel Western's Hotel , the chief resort of
summer-visitors, R. 1, B. 1, D. 1 kr. 60 »; *Villemseris, on the
hill, 1/4 hr. from the pier, see p. 59) , beautifully situated , and
one of the most picturesque spots on the Hardanger Fjord. It is
a skyds-station. Brakences, with its conspicuous church, beyond
which there is a fine waterfall, is the principal cluster of houses
on this creek , the hamlets and farms at the head of which are
collectively known as Ulvik. A pleasant walk may be taken along
the shore to (10 min.) another group of houses, with a pier, near
the head of the fjord, where visitors also frequently take up their
quarters for the summer. Farther on lies Hagestad, beyond which,
on the N.E. bank, is Lekve , an ancient 'Kongsgaard', or royal
domain, from which a path crosses the hill to the Osefjord in 1 hr.
— An interesting excursion from Llvik is the ascent of the Vas-
Fjaeren (5350 ft.), via Levke; magnificent view from the summit
(12-16 hrs. there and back; guide necessary, Ole Hakestad of
Levke recommended ; fee 5 kr.). Less practised mountain-climb-
ers should walk to the Solsi- Setter on the evening before the
ascent. — Pleasant walk of l1/? nr- t0 tne N.W. to the (7 Kil.)
Espelandsnand, a lake which is said to afford good trout-fishing.

From Ulvik to Ose (9 Kil.; or all the way by boat 14 Kil.). The
innermost creek of the '■ Osefjord, which none of the steamers enter,
is one of the most striking parts of the Hardanger Fjord, and should if
possible be visited. The excursion there and back may be made in one
day ; or the night may be spent at Ose. One route is by boat to Lekve,
on the N.E. bank of the Ulviksfjord , in 20 min., and thence by a path
across the hill to the Osefjord in 1 hr., on which another boat is hired to
(4 Kil.) Ose , a row of nearly an hour more (I kr.) ; or a boat may be
taken direct from Brakenses to (17 Kil.) Ose, a row of 2'/2 hrs. or more
ONiste', i. e. a supply of food , desirable). — On rounding the promon-
tory by boat we observe to the E. a waterfall of the Bagnaelv and (more
to the left) the curious Degerfos, descending from the snow-clad Onen
and the Degerdalsvand. We now enter the upper part of the im-
posing Osefjord, the banks of which are almost uninhabited. On the
right rise Onen and the Balonefjeld, and in the background tower Vas-
Fjceren (left) and Kros-Fjwren and the Nipahmjd (right), the mountains
bounding the wild * Osedal in which the fjord terminates. From Ose
(tolerable quarters at the house of Lars Ose) travellers usually visit the
(15 min.) 'Koldehuller' ('cold holes', known as 'Windlocher' among the
Alps), which are used as cellars, and where water freezes even in sum-
mer. Close to them is a marsh CJftjr'), which, according to the natives,
never freezes, and is dry during rain and wet in dry weather. Bevond
Ose the valley contracts to a wild and narrow ravine, bounded by theVas-
Fjteren and Nipah0gd, through which a path (guide obtainable at Ose)
leads to the Oseswter and thence between the Oseskavl and Vosseskavl
(right) and the Gangdalskavl (left) to the Gravahals (3710 ft.) and to
Kaardal in the Flaamsdal (a walk of 10-12 hrs. ; comp. p. 111). — Another
route, fatiguing and rarely frequented, leads from Ose across the Halllng-
skarven (p. 86) by Uleeasbotten (tolerable quarters) to Hoi in the upper Hal-
lingdal in 2 days (comp. p. 87).

From Ulvik to Aurlaxd (10-12 hrs.). The path, verv precipitous and
fatiguing at places, ascends via Lekve to the SoUiraiid and the Slondals-
vand (2560 ft.), at the end of which lies Klevene, the highest gaard in
the Rundal , passes the base of the Gravahals., and descends to Kaardal
in the Flaamsdal (comp. p. 111).

Fjord. VIK. 9. Route. 61

Leaving Ulvik-Brakenees, beyond which the steamer does not
proceed, we now return to the Eidfjord. To the S. rises the lofty
Bunut , so named from the solitary Oaard Bu , on which the sun
never shines in winter. On the right, farther on, is Erdal, with
a saw-mill and a number of houses, where several old moraines
and primeval beaches are distinguishable. Above itrises iheRulle-
nut. On the opposite bank of the fjord are the Onen (5150 ft.)
and the Simodal (p. 62), with the snowy plateau of the Hardanger
Jekul (p. 63) in the background. We next observe on the left
the bare Vindaxlen. The scenery here is wild and grand, but is
destitute of the softer characteristics of the Ulviksfjord. The next
station, Vik, is 18 Kil. fromUlvik, but is not farther distant
from Stavanger or Bergen than Ulvik.

183 Kil. (114 Engl. M.) Vik i Bifjord or Eidfjord {Inn kept
by the brothers Nasheim, who speak English , charges rather high),
situated in a bay on the S. side of the Eidfjord or 0i fjord, is the
starting-point for the Veringsfos, one of the finest waterfalls in
Norway, and also for other excursions of great interest. The church
of Bifjord , 10 min. from the pier, stands on a moraine (Vor),
which is intersected by the river descending from the Bifjordsvand.

Excursion to the V0ringsfos , 8-10 hrs., there and back,
including 2 hrs. spent in crossing the lake. Guide from Vik 3 kr.
20 »., horse from Ssebe 3 kr. 20 0. Good walkers may dispense
with both. Complaints have been made of the condition of the
boats and the harness. At Naesheim's Inn 80 0. is charged for
keeping the new route in good repair. Waterproof cloaks will be
found useful at the waterfall.

We walk across the Eid , or neck of land between the fjord
and the (IY2 hr.) 0ifjordsvand (54 ft. above the sea-level), a
lake enclosed by huge, abrupt, and barren rocks, over which several
waterfalls are precipitated. Here we obtain a boat (80 0., settle
beforehand ; the boatman lives at Gjellero , a little to the right,
and is usually attracted by shouting) to take us to the upper end
of the lake (4 Kil. ; 1 hr.). A road is being constructed along the W.
bank. On the right a path diverges to Oaarden Kvam {Kvam, rocky
basin), whence the Kvamfos descends ; and farther on we pass the
Borgafjeld, where there is a fine echo. On the left is the Bifjords-
fjeld with the Treliefos. At the end of the lake we reach a small
fertile plain watered by the Bygdarelv, or Hjcelmoelv, descending
from the Hjalmodal on the S., and the Bjereia, which descends
from the Maabedal.

Our path ascends the Maabedal. Leaving Gaarden Oaaratun
(Inn, rustic) on the right, we soon reach the farms of Sabe, Megeletun,
TJlletun, Varberg, and Reise, at all of which horses may be hired.
From Saebe the path, which cannot be mistaken, ascends the
moraine, and then descends into the wild Maab»dal on the left
bank of the Bjereia, which it afterwards crosses by means of a lofty

62 Route 9. SIMODAL. Hardanger

bridge. In 1 hr. from Sseb» we reach Oaarden Tveithougen, beyond
which the path ascends steeply, passing enormous blocks of rock
and wild cataiacts formed by the river here. In 1/2 ^r- more we
reach Maabe, a solitary house in the midst of a severe rocky land-
scape, where the river is lost to view.

The path constructed by the Turistforening, which leads from
this point to the fall, crosses the river and ascends its precipitous
left bank to the small, dark-green Maabevand. The vegetation is of
an Alpine character. In 1 hr. from Maab» we reach the **V«ringsfos,
the roar of which has long been audible (Gaaratun's Inn, coffee,
beer, cold meat ; also 3 beds ; moderate). The Bjereia is precipitated
over the rocks at the head of the ravine in a perpendicular leap of
475 ft. into a basin enclosed by walls of rock on three sides. Two
ridges of rock divide the river , which comes from the right, into
three falls, which however soon re-unite. A dense volume of spray
constantly rises from the seething cauldron, forming a cloud above
it. The scene is singularly impressive. The traveller should
approach the fall as closely as possible in order more thoroughly
to realise its sublimity. Beautiful rainbow-hues are often observed
in the spray, especially of an afternoon.

In order to view the fall from above the traveller may ascend by a
footpath between the fall and Maabo (with a guide) ; or he may return
to Maabo and follow the bridle-path ascending the Maabegalder (Qahl,
'rocky declivity') to Gaarden Hjal (in 2 hrs. ; rough accommodation), situ-
ated on a dreary mountain-plateau, about 2200 ft. above the sea-level. The
most conspicuous object on this lofty plain is the dense column of spray
rising above the waterfall, which had long been observed by the natives
of the district and led Prof. Hansteen to the discovery of the fall in 1821.

From Hal we may now, instead of retracing our steps, proceed to the
S. across the plateau to the Skiswter and BoerrasM, and descend into the
imposing Hjcelmodal , through which a good path descends to Gaaratun
and Sfebo (a walk of 7-8 hrs. in all). In this case the night must be
spent at Hoi. — Or, leaving Hoi early in the morning, we may cross the
river, ascend through the Isdal, with the Isdalsvand, descend a precipitous
path, 3000 ft., to Gaarden Thveit, and through the Simodal (see below)
to the fjord, a rough walk of 10-12 hrs. (in the reverse direction 13-14 hrs. ;
boat to Vik in 1 hr. more). A guide is necessary for all these expeditions,
except the direct excursion to the fall and back.

Excursion to the Simodal. This picturesque expedition
takes 7-8 hrs. to the Rembesdalsfos and back (guide 3l/2 kr.), and
10-12 hrs. to the Fj eld-plateau, opposite the Skykjefos," and back
(guide 5 kr.). — We row from Vik to (5 Kil.) the head of the fjord
in 1 hr. To the N. from the head of the fjord runs the Aasdal,
in which, a little beyond Gaarden Aasen, rises a curious isolated
rock resembling a tower, nearly 400 ft. in height. The *Simodal,
running from the head of the fjord towards the E., is an exceed-
ingly wild, narrow, rocky ravine traversed by a new carriage-
road, which leads to Oaarden Mehus, where the valley is so narrow
that the towering rooks above may be seen through the Ljor
('smoke-hole'); and to Thveit, the highest of the three gaards.
where tolerable quarters may be obtained (3 Engl. M. from the

Fjord. GRIMO. 9. Route. 63

head of the fjord). Near it are several Koldehuller ('ice-cavities')
resembling those in the Osedal (p. 60). A path, improved by the
'Turistforening', conducts us along the right bank of the foaming
stream to the (5 Kil.) head of the valley, which terminates
abruptly in a huge wall of rock, over which falls the imposing
Rembesdalsfos. To the E. is seen the *Skykjedalsfos, a fine water-
fall 2000 ft. high, part of which is a perpendicular leap of 700 ft.
— Travellers who desire to extend their excursion, may ascend to
the Rembesdalsvand, a lake to the N.E., to which a glacier of the
Hardanger Jekul (6540 ft.) descends. The most interesting point
of view is a precipitous wall of rock opposite the Skykjet'os, from
which we command a view of the fall, and look sheer down into
the valley beneath.

From Vik i IDifjord , Kinservik, Ullenseang , Espen, and Skjceggedal,
rough and fatiguing mountain-paths , rarely trodden except by reindeer-
stalkers, cross the wild and desolate Hardanger Vidda to the Hallitigdal
and to Telemarken, in 2-3 days. All the Telemarken routes unite at
the base of Haarteigen (5550 ft.) , a mountain of truncated conical form
(Teig, Teigjen, 'an allotment of land', 'a clearing'), where an excellent
idea of the extremely bleak and dreary character of the Norwegian 'H#i-
field' scenery may be formed. On every side extends a lofty and sterile
table-land, rarely relieved by mountain-summits, while the distant snow-
mountains (Gatista, Hardanger Jekul, and Slorfonn) present a flat and
shapeless appearance. Far and wide not a trace of human habitations, or
even a valley suggestive of their existence , is to be seen. The angler,
however , will be interested to hear that the numerous mountain-lakes
teem with life (excellent 'Fjeldtfrreter' or mountain - trout) , while the
sportsman will often have an opportunity of shooting wildfowl , eagles,
and reindeer, the last of which follow the migrations of the lemmings
(see p. 151). The atmosphere on this mountain-plateau, 3000-4000 ft. above
the sea-level, is exceedingly clear and bracing, hut mists and storms are
of frequent occurrence. — Travellers or sportsmen traversing this region
must spend one or more nights in a sseter, in the hut of a reindeer-
stalker (Vejdemwnd) or fisherman, or in a still more wretched Fwlceger
(p. 133), or shepherd's hut, no other shelter of any kind being procurable.

From Vik i 0ifjord to Odde. The steamer skirts the S.
bank of the Eidfjord , the highest summit of which is the Slcod-
dals-Fjceren. Some of the steamers touch at Ringeen, on the E.
bank, near the mouth of the fjord, a little beyond which we steer
into the narrow arm of the Hardanger called the **S«rfjord ('south
fjord'), 6 M. (24 Engl. M.) in length, its entrance being formed
by the Tronas on the W. and the Kirkences on the E. side. The
next station, about 4 M. from Vik, is —

124 Kil. (77 Engl. M. from Tereen) Grimo (*Inn), a pretty place
on the W. bank, which is well cultivated here, and yields the mo-
rella and other cherries in abundance. A beautiful walk may be
taken to the S. to (20 min.) the top of the Haugsnces, and another
to the N. to the (20 min.) Tronas, which affords a view of the
Kinservik (p. 64). The contrast between the wild and bleak moun-
tains rising above the fjord and the fertile land at their bases is
most striking on the Serfjord, and is most apparent when observed
from the banks themselves.

64 Route 9. ULLENSVANG. Hardanger

Opposite Grimo, accessible by boat only, is the charming Kin-
servik, to which the Husdal descends. The Thveitafos and the
Nyastelsfos, two line waterfalls in this valley, are worthy of a visit.
A carriage-road, enjoying a splendid view of the Serfjord, leads
from Kinservik church along the hill-side by Krosnas to Lofthus
(see below ; on foot, 2'/2 hrs.) and on to Fresvik.

On the same side of the fjord, about 8 Kil. from Grimo , is
the next station , Lofthus, or Vllensvang (*'Hans Helgesen Hint's
Inn, comfortable ; several pensions), charmingly situated in front
of a rocky amphitheatre , with a lofty waterfall. Higher up is
Helleland ('Hedleland'), with a curious ol&Reghus, or house witha
'Ljor'(comp. p. 124). To the S. of the inn is a. Convalescent Home, on
the hill above which is Oppednl. — The name of the parish isTJllens-
vang, to the church of which a beautiful road leads through the
valley of a river, which, 6 Kil. to the E., forms the waterfall of
Bjemebykset (bear's leap). To the S. is the Skrikjofos, 500 ft. high.
The interesting old Church is an early-Gothic building, destitute
of a tower, with a handsome W. portal. At the E. end of the
choir is a Gothic window ; above it is represented the head of a
bishop, and on the right is a weeping, and on the left a laughing,
face. By the Prastegaard (parsonage) are several fine old limes
and ash-trees. — ■ On this part of the fjord mild W. winds usually
prevail in winter, and the water never freezes ; but farther to the
8., at Odde and in the neighbourhood, cold E. winds are more fre-
quent. — Near Ullensvang are several Koldehuller (p. 60), used by
the natives as cellars.

On the opposite (W.) bank of the fjord are several large farms,
the chief of which are Jaastad, Vilure, and Aga. The last-named
still contains an old hall lighted from above. Above Aga rises
the Solnut (4830 ft.), beyond which is the Thnrsnut (5164 ft.).
The glaciers of the Folgefond are visible at frequent intervals. —
The next station is B«rven (quarters at the Landhandler's), finely
situated on the E. bank, with a view of the glaciers on the other
side. The best point of view is the prominent peak of Berve-
nuten (1 hr.).

On the W. side of the fjord, a little farther S., is the pictur-
esque Vikebugt, on which are situated the station of —

140 Kil. (87 Engl. M.) Naae and the farm-houses of Bleie,
where immediately above the luxuriant fields and gardens are the
overhanging glaciers of the Folgefond, from which several water-
falls are precipitated. — Path from Bleie over the mountains to
Jondal, see p. 57. — The next places on the E. bank are Oaarden
Sandste and Sexe ; Hovland, with a spinning-mill ; Kvalenas, a pro-
montory with a gaard; and then, 7 Kil. from Naae, Espen, with
several small farms charmingly situated on the hill.

On the W. bank, farther on, are Kvitnaa , at the entrance to
an imposing valley, with glaciers in the background, and Digrences.

Fjord. ODDE. 9. Route. 65

with several waterfalls near it. Between these places, on a com-
manding hill , stands Gaarden Aase, whence the Folgefond may
easily be ascended. (Rowing-boat thither from Odde, 2 hrs.) —
Beyond Digrenaes are Gaarden Apald and Aaen, with the water-
fall of that name, also called the Ednafos ; then Eitrheim , with
the peninsula of Eitnces , and Tokheim with its waterfall , com-
manded by the Tokheimsnut , on the S. side of which a path
crosses the Folgefond to the Maurangerfjord (p. 56). — In the back-
ground to the S. are the Buklenut (right) and the Rosnaas (left).

On the E. bank, a little beyond Espen, is Fresvik, with its
spacious and picturesque amphitheatre of wood, bordered with
meadows and corn-fields. On the same bank, opposite Digrenaes,
are the gaards of Skjalvik, situated in another wooded bay, and
Stana, at a dizzy height above which is Isberg. Farther on is the
Tyssedalsnut, below which lies the hamlet of Tyssedal, the start-
ing-point of the path to the Skjceggedalsfos (see p. 68). "We next
observe the gaard of Freheim, on the hill, beyond which we soon
reach (about 16 Kil. from Espen) ■ —

162 Kil. (101 Engl. M.) Odde. — Hotels. "Hardanger Hotel, kept
by Svend Tollefson, well managed and pleasantly situated on the fjord,
frequented by English travellers, R. 1 kr. 40, B. 1 kr. 30 «f., D. (at 7 p.m.)
3, 'pens.' 6 kr. ; *Ole Pbjestegaard's Inn, near the pier, R. 1, D. 2, B. 1,
8. 1, A. '/i kr.-, "Baaed Aga, with the skyds-station, a little inland, cheap,
'pens.' for a long stay 3 kr. ; Kristensen's Hotel, frequented by Nor-
wegians. Accommodation may also be obtained at Jacob JordaVs, ad-
joining Kristensen's. *

Guides. Lars Olsen Bustetun , Asbjern Lars Olsen, and Ole Tors-
tensen may be recommended as guides (all speak English). — Post Office,
adjoining the Baard Aga Inn. — Adjoining the Hardanger Hotel are the
Industrial and Antiquarian Show Rooms of G. Hellstrem (chief depot in
Stavanger) and M. Hammer. — English Church Service in summer at the
Parish Church and the Hardanger Hotel.

Odde, situated at the S. end of the Serfjord, at the end of the
great highway from Telemarken (R. 4), forms excellent head-
quarters for excursions. The name ('tongue of land') applies pro-
perly to the large Church of the parish. The principal farms
around the church are Bustetun. Opheim, and Bergeflot.

Walks. (1). To (35-40 min.) Tokheim, on the W. bank, com-
manding fine views of the fjord , especially from the inland road,
ascending beyond Tokheim.

(2). To the *Sandvenvand (280 ft.), to the S. of Odde, there
and back 1-1 1/2 hr. (carriage-road). The route to it is by the Tele-
marken road, ascending the Eid, an old moraine. At the top of
the hill the Aabo-Elv, issuing from the Sandvenvand, forms a fine
waterfall. On the right, rising above the lake, are the Eidesnut and
Jordalsnut, between lies the Jordal (p. 66); to the N. the view
embraces the whole of the Sarfjord, with the Oxen (p. 59) in the
extreme distance. By following the road for 20 min. more along
the E. bank of the lake, passing under threatening walls of rock
and over fields of 'Ur', we obtain a "View of the entire Buarbrae

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 5

66 Route 9. BUARBILE. Hardanger

and the Folgefond ; farther to the left is the beautiful Kjendals-
Fos, opposite which is the Strandsfos, descending from the Svar-
tenut (with a bridge).

Excursions from Oddb. The first two of the excursions de-
scribed below may be combined in a single long excursion occupy-
ing about 10 hrs.

(l)To the BuARBRiE, a very interesting excursion of 5 hrs., there
and back (guide unnecessary). "We walk or drive to the (25 min.)
Sandvenvand (p. 65), where small boats may be hired. We then
either proceed to the right along the lake to the (25 min.) entrance
to the Jordal (*View of the Folgefond), or row across the lake to
the (15-20 min.) Gaard Jordal, situated on the right bank of the
stream here entering the lake (fare 50-60 »., there and back 1 kr.
for each pers. ; guide to the glacier, quite unnecessary, ll/t kr. ;
the traveller should be on his guard against imposition). The latter
plan saves some walking and affords a good survey of the manner in
which the river, descending from the Buarbrae, is pushing forward
its delta into the lake. About 20 min. from Gaarden Jordal we
cross a bridge, beyond which the path follows the left bank of the
Jordals-Elv. Stony path. In 3/4hr. more we pass Gaarden Buar
(Christiania beer 50 e.) on the left, on the opposite side of the
stream, beyond which lies a small plain. From this point to the
foot of the *Buarbrae, of which we are now in full view, 20 min.
more. Travellers are particularly cautioned against attempting to
enter the blue ice-grotto. By ascending the hill to the right we
have an opportunity of observing traces of the steady advance of
the glacier, which amounted to 260 ft. in 1870, and to no less
than 12 ft. in one week in 1871. The foot of the glacier is
1000 ft. only above the level of the fjord, or 700 ft. above the
Sandvenvand, and in its immediate proximity are barley-flelds
and well-grown trees. The glacier is divided into two arms, which
afterwards unite, by the Vrbotten, a ridge of rock, and consequently
has an unusually large central moraine. The Jordal itself is an
object of attraction on this excursion, being bounded by picturesque
and precipitous rocks, and enlivened with an abundant growth of
birches, elms, and other trees.

Good mountain-walkers may ascend on the right side of the glacier
to the Folgefond, skirt the Eidesnut and the Roklenut, and passing the
Tokheimsnut descend to Tokheim and Odde, a very grand and interesting,
hut fatiguing expedition of 8-10 hrs. in all (guide 6-8 kr.).

(2). To the Lotbfos (5-7 hrs., there and back) and Gorsvin-
gane (10-12 hrs., there and back). A carriole or 'stolkjjerre', with
seats for two persons, may be hired for the whole excursion (to the
Lotefos 3 kr. 40 e.). We change horses at Seljestad, the only place
on the route where refreshments are obtainable.

The route is at first the same as that above described. At the S.
end of the Sandvenvand, 7 Kil. from Odde, lies the farm of Sand-
ven. Farther on the road passes (2 Kil.) J7adaZ (330 ft.), where the

Fjord. LOTEFOS. 9. Route. 67

Vafos or Hildalsfos descends on the left, and (4 Kil.) Qrensdal, the
starting-point for the ascent of Saue-Nuten (3940 ft. ; splendid view
of the Folgefond). The valley gradually contracts till it forms a Djuv,
or narrow ravine, through which the brawling Grensdals-Elv forces
its passage. About 5 Kil. from Hildal we reach the *Lotefos and
Skarsfos , the waters of which unite near the road (new Hotel).
Opposite is the *Espelandsfos , descending in the form of a veil,
and one of the most picturesque waterfalls in Norway. The best
point of view is on the hill immediately above the road (ascent
in 5 min.). — The traveller may now drive on for 20 min. more,
alight, and walk to the (8 min.) gaards of Skare. The traveller may
view the Lotefos from above (hardly repaying) by ascending from
Skare to the (V2_3/4 nr0 Lotevand, from which first the Skarsfos
and then the Lotefos issues. Several mills have been established
by the side of the fall. The lofty cloud of spray, through which the
Bspelandsfos is visible, has a very curious effect.

The excursion to the Lotefos may be combined with a visit to the
Buarbrm, the vehicles being left at the N. end of the Sa#dvenvand until
the travellers return from the glacier.

The Jesendal here opens to the right. As we proceed wc en-
joy a continual retrospect of the Folgefond and the mountains round
Odde. Farther on we cross the stream and enter the *Seljestadjuvet.
a wild and deep ravine. We then ascend the Hesteklev in windings,
passing the Hesteklevfos (dismounting advisable), and again cross
the river.

26 Kil. (16 Engl. M.) Seljestad (2070 ft. ; unpretending accom-
modation at the fast skyds-station ; better at Thormok Aslakssen
Seljestad's). — The road ascends circuitously, passing the Hed-
stensnuten and Svaagen (left). At a rocky gap, near the lower end
of the dark Oorsvatten (2800 ft.), where a waterfall descends, we
enjoy a magnificent **Retrospect of the vast snow-fields of the Fol-
gefond, which dominates the entire landscape. The scene is one of
the finest and most characteristic in Norway. We now ascend the
*Gorsvingane to the highest point of the road (3390 ft.). Alongside
runs the old bridle-track.

The grand scenery of this route is seen to greater advantage by tra-
vellers coming from Telemarken or the Hardanger. Those who make the
excursion from Odde should retrace their steps from the Gorsvingane, as
the continuation of the route to Rgfldal is comparatively uninteresting.

The road now leads along the lonely ridge, passing several
ponds. We soon obtain a view of the Reldalsvand and of the Bred-
fond and other mountains to the E. To the left are the slopes of the
Horreheia, to the right the Elgersheia. Farther on we descend
the Horrebrcekkene in numerous windings, which the pedestrian,
especially if ascending in the opposite direction, will gladly avoid.
At the foot we reach Horre on the N.W. bank of the R«ldalsvand
(1220 ft.), a small lake (6 Engl. M. long) surrounded by lofty
mountains. We then skirt the lake to —

68 Route 10. SKJvEGGEDAL.

28 Kil. (17y2 Engl. M.) Gryting i Reldal (Skyds-Station, with
good quarters ; Fredheims Hotel, at the end of the village nearest
Odde; Hagen's Hotel, at theHaukeli end), at the N. end of the lake,
near the conspicuous old church.

Route hence to the Haukeli-Swter (30 Kil.) and Telemarkm, see pp. 30,
29; to the Suledalsvand in the Hardanger, see p. 48.

(3). From Odde across the *Folgefond to the Maurangeb. Fjord
(seep. 56), a fatiguing, but very interesting walk of 10 hrs. (guide
12-16 kr. ; horses may be hired at Odde, bargaining advisable).

(4). From Odde to Fjjebb, on the Aakre-Fjord, the N.E. branch
of the Stavanger-Fjord, see pp. 53, 52.

(5). From Odde to the Skjjeggedalsfos, 10-12 hrs., there and
back. As in the case of the excursion to the Veringsfos, the scen-
ery on the route is very picturesque, and is almost as great an
attraction as the fall itself. About one half of the excursion is
performed by water, the remainder on foot, riding being impracti-
cable. The actual walking takes about 5 hrs. only, but the path,
though improved by the Turistforening, is at some places still very
rough and steep. Ladies, however, also make this excursion. A
guide (5V2kr.)and a supply of provisions had better be taken from
Odde. We row from Odde along the wild E. bank of the Serfjord,
passing a group of rocks called iBiskopen, Prasten, og KloVkereW,
and just beyond the mouth of the Tyssaa , which falls into the
lake in a cascade framed with dark pines, we land at Plads Tyssedal
(p. 65). The gaard of that name lies prettily on the hill, to the left.
We now ascend through wood , enjoying beautiful retrospective
views of the fjord and the Folgefond and its glaciers. The woods
of the Tyssedalsnut (to the N.) and the Thveitnut (to the 8.) still
contain numerous bears , which , however , are very rarely seen in
summer. After 1/i hr. we pass a second fall of the beautiful clear
green river, and in another y4 hr. a third. The path ascends steeply
over 'IV and roots of trees. In 3/4 hr. more we pass a small pasture
on the left, where bilberries, the Caluna vulgaris, and other wild
plants grow abundantly. We next reach (i/4 hr.) a hay-hut, at the
foot of the Svelberg, near which is a cavity in the rock used by
the natives as a kind of kitchen. This is the highest point on the
route, about 1800 ft. above the fjord. The path next descends the
Fladberge, and in 1 hr. more reaches the gaard of Skjseggedal (about
2»/2 hrs. from Tyssedal ; coffee, good trout, and a bed if necessary).
On the left the Mogelifos descends from the Mogelinut, and on the
right is the Vasendenfos, the discharge of the Ringedalsvand (see
below). At the foot of the latter waterfall is the Vetlevand ('small
lake'), which we cross by boat in a few minutes; and ascending
thence for 8 min. more across the Eid, or neck of land separating the
two lakes, we reach the extremely picturesque and exquisitely
clear Ringedalsvand (about 1310 ft. above the sea), with the huge
Einsatfjeld rising towards the S. (A high wind sometimes prevails

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Hotels. BERGEN. 10. Route. 69

here, while the fjord below is quite calm, in which case the night
must he spent at the gaard, or the excursion must be renounced
altogether. It is desirable to have one or more extra rowers in ad-
dition to the guide (fee for each person 1 kr.) This magnificent moun-
tain-lake is 6 Kil. in length, and the row to its upper end takes
nearly l1/^ hr. ; about halfway we enjoy a fine retrospective view
of the huge snow-mantle of the Folgefond. On the left, farther on,
the picturesque Tyssestrenge fall from a precipice upwards of 500 ft.
high, uniting in one cascade about halfway down the face of the
rock. On landing at the upper end of the lake, we ascend across
'Ur' to the (20 min.) foot of the *Skjaeggedalsfos (530 ft.), which
though perhaps less imposing than the Veringsfos (p. 62) is much
more picturesque. In summer the volume of water is somewhat
scanty, but when the snow is melting (Flomtid) and after heavy
rain the effect is very grand.

(6). An ascent of M*falsskardene (3940 ft.), to the E. of Odde,
is accomplished in 6 hrs., with guide (5 kr.); the top commands a
fine panorama of the Ringedalsvand, Serfjord, and Folgefond.

10. Bergen and Environs.

Arrival. The Wilson steamers lay to at the Customhouse Her; the
'Norge'' and Hardanger boats at the Ny-Almenning ; the Sogn and Nordfjord
boats at the Nykirke Bryggen; the Hamburg, Christiania, Throndhjem,
and North Cape steamers at Brabanken, near the citadel. Porter (Barer)
to the principal hotels, 7z~l kr. — Travellers leaving Bergen by steamboat
should, if possible, secure berths by going on board in person several
hours or even the day before the vessel starts. — The Railway Station
(PI. 1; p. 76) is in the S. part of the town, near the Lille Lungegaardsvand.

Hotels. "Hotel Nokge, a large establishment in the Torv, near the
railway-station, E. 2'/2-6 kr. ; * Holdt's Hotel (PI. c), in the street call-
ed Veiten, about 20 min. from the steamboat-quay, with baths, R. from 2,
B. 2, S. 2, D. 3 kr., L. <fe A. 90 0. — 'Nordstjernen (PI. d), Raadstue-
Plads , near the Exchange , and 20 min. from the landing-place, R. Z'/a,
B. 2, D. 2, S. 2kr.; Hotel Bergen (PI. a), Strand-Gade, to the E. of the
Nykirke, well spoken of, R. 2, B. 1, S. 1, D. 2, A. '/•.> kr. ; Smeby, Strand-
Gade, to the W. of the Nykirke, well spoken of, moderate charges;
these three are less pretending than Holdt's and the 'Norge'. — Scandi-
havie (PI. b), in the Plads called Klosteret, 10 min. from the quay,
2nd class. In summer the hotels are often full. — Restaurants at the hotels.
— Michelsen, confectioner, Olaf Kyrre's Gade, opposite the Nygaards Park.

Cabs (at the Exchange). Per hr., with one horse, 1-2 pers. l'/i, 3 pers.
2, 4 pers. 2'/2 kr., with two horses 2 kr., 2 kr. 70, 3 kr. 20 tl. ; per drive
50, 65, 80 0., outside the town-limits 80 0., 1 kr., 1 kr. 20 e.

Boats, here called Flat (Fletmand, 'a boatman'), according to tariff (Taxi).
Persons in want of a boat hail one by shouting 'W , to which the
boatman usually replies, '/a vel, Mosje1. A trip towards the N.W. is
described as udover, towards the Torv at the head of the bay as indover,
towards the N.E. side (F]0ifjeld) as opover, and to the S.W. as nedover.

Post Office (PI. 6), Smaastrand-Gade, open from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
Telegraph Office (PI. 2), at the back of the Exchange (p. 74).

Shops. Hammer, Strand-Gade, Norwegian antiquities, modern silver
ornaments, and pictures; Brandt, Strand-Gade, furs ; Kahrs, Strand-Gade,
fishing-tackle, travelling requisites, alpenstocks; Sund <t Co., Strand-Gade,
tailors for ladies and gentlemen ; Miehelsen, Strand-Gade, wood-carvings ;
Vedeler, in the Torv, figures in Norwegian costumes. — Booksellers:

70 Route 10. BERGEN. Situation.

F. Beyer, Strand-Gade 2 (also photographs, stationery, etc.; information
willingly given to strangers); Giertsen, Paulson, both in the Strand-Gade.
Photographs also at A'. Knudsen's, etc. — Chemist : Monrad Krohn (Eng-
lish spoken). — Cigars and Tobacco : Eeimers d- Son, Smaastrand-Gade 3,
near the post-office. — Wine, Tinned Goods ('Hermetik'), and Biscuits :
C. Kr0peliem Enke, Strand-Gade 40; J. E. Moirinckel, Strand-Gade 23
(cigars also). — Spirits and Liqueurs at the not very numerous shops belong-
ing to the company (Brcendevins-Samlag), which monopolises the trade in
spirituous liquors. At some of the shops liquors are sold in bottles only,
at others by the glass. The shopkeepers are the servants of the company,
and derive no profit from the sale. After payment of a dividend of

5 per cent, the surplus profits are paid to the municipality. The 'per-
missive act' under which the company has bought up all the licenses
to sell spirits, has been adopted by many other Norwegian towns and
parishes, and is said to have produced most beneficial results.

Banks. Norges Bank, Bergens Credit-Bank, and Privatbank, all in the
Torv. — Goods Agents. Ellerhusen <b Lund, Lille Altonagaarden, Strand-
Gade.

Baths. Warm, in the Sygehus (PI. 3) in Engen and at HoldCs (PI. c).
Sea-baths at the Selyst (PI. 8), by the fortress; for gentlemen 7-9 and
3-8 o'clock; for ladies 10-2 o'clock. — Hair-dressers: Andreas Pettersen,
Olaf Kyrre's Gade6; B. Holmberg, Valkendorfs-Gade 6.

Theatre, performances thrice weekly. — Music in the Park on Sun.

6 Wed., 12-1, also 8-10 p.m. (adm. 10 «r.).

Consuls. British, Mr. H. D. Janson, Strand-Gade, S.W. side, a few
doors S.E. from the Sm/Jrs-Almenning. American consul-general, Mr. F.

G. Gade, Smaastrand-Gade; vice-consul, Mr. Joh. Isdahl.

English Church Service in summer in the 'Gamle Mus&um' school-
house, on the N. side of the Lille Lungegaardsvand, near the Park, and
5 min. from Holdt's Hotel.

Tourist Agencies. Beyer's Inquiry Office, Strand-Gade 2, gives infor-
mation to tourists, sells hotel-coupons and steamboat-tickets, and supplies
guides ; it also publishes a tourist journal entitled 'Beyer's Weekly News'.
Bennett's ; Norsk Turist Bureau , Starvhus - Gade 5. — Strangers provided
with an introduction are admitted free for a week to the club lden Gode
HensigV or the ^Logen'.

Steamboats, comp. the Norges Communicationer, pp. 8, 9. — Steam-
boat Agent: C. A. Gundersen, Strand-Gade 71.

Bergen (N. lat. 60° 23'), one of the oldest and most picturesque
towns in Norway, with 47,000 inhab., lies on a hilly peninsula
and isthmus bounded on the N. by the Vaag and the Byfjord, on
the S.E. by the Lungegaardsvand, and on the S.W. by the Pudde-
fjord. In the background rise four mountains, 1350-2100 ft. in
height, Blaamanden (with the Fleifjeld) to the N.E., Vlriken to the
S.E., Levstakken to the S., and Lyderhorn to the S.W.; but the
citizens , on the analogy of the seven hills of Rome, enumerate
seven {Sandviksfjeld, Fleifjeld, Vlriken, Levstakken, Damsgaards-
fjeld, Lyderhorn, and the Askefjeld in the island of Aske to the
N.W.). The armorial bearings of the town also contain seven hills
(formerly seven balls). The climate is exceedingly mild and humid,
somewhat resembling that of the W. coast of Scotland ; the frosts
of winter are usually slight and of short duration, the thermometer
very rarely falling below 15-20° Fahr., and the average rainfall is
72 inches (in the Nordfjord about 35 in., at Christiania 26 in.
only). The mean temperature of the whole year is 45° Fahr.
(Christiania, 41°), and that of July 58° (Christiania, 62°). Owing

History. BERGEN. 10. Route. 71

to the mildness of the climate the vegetation in the neighbourhood
is unusually rich ; flowers are abundant, while grain and fruit in
ordinary seasons ripen fairly well.

The general aspect of the town is modern, though traces of its
antiquity are not wanting. The older part adjoins the spacious
harbour, called Vaagen, and spreads over the rocky heights at the
base of the Fleifjeld and over the peninsula of Nordnaes, which in-
terposes between the Vaagen and the Puddefjord (to the S.). The
newer quarters are rapidly extending to the S.E., towards the Lille
and Store Lungegaardsvand, picturesque sheets of water, which,
however, are apt to have an unpleasant stagnant smell in warm
weather, especially at low tide.

The part of the town situated to the S. of the harbour,
having been burned down in 1855, has been rebuilt in a hand-
some modern style, but the other quarters (Kvartaler) consist of
closely built wooden houses painted white. Many of the houses
are roofed with red tiles, which present a picturesque appearance.
The streets running parallel with the harbour are called 'Gader',
the lanes and passages 'Smuger' or 'Smitter', and these are inter-
sected at right angles by wide open spaces called 'Almenningen',
designed chiefly to prevent the spreading of conflagrations. Not-
withstanding this precaution, Bergen has been repeatedly de-
stroyed by fire, as for example in 1702, the disaster of which year
is described by Peter Dass (p. 235) in two pleasing poems ( 'Samlede
Skrifter', i. 1874). It is from these open spaces only, and from
the Tydskebrygge , that a view of the harbour is obtained, the
greater part of its banks being occupied by warehouses (Segaarde ).
A conduit now supplies the town with water from Svartediket
(p. 77), affording much greater facilities for extinguishing fires
than formerly existed.

The inhabitants of Bergen, like the Horlaendinger andVossinger,
are more vivacious in temperament than those of other parts of
Norway, and are noted for their sociability and light-heartedness.
On holiday occasions their merry songs and lively chat testify to
the buoyancy of their spirits, while at the same time they are a
sober and frugal race. Waterproofs and umbrellas are quite as
much in vogue here as in England, and they are certainly far more
necessary. — Most of the better-educated inhabitants speak Eng-
lish or German, or both.

Bergen (from Bjergvin, 'pasture near the mountains') was founded by
King Olaf Kyrre in 1070-75 on the site of the old royal residence of Aal-
relstad, at the E. end of the present harbour, which at that period ran
inland as far as the Cathedral. The town must soon have become an
important place, as the greatest battles in the civil wars of the sub-
sequent centuries were fought in its neighbourhood. In 1135 Magnus
Sigurdssfln was taken prisoner here and deprived of his sight by Ha-
rold Oille, who in his turn was slain by Sigurd Slembe the following
year. In 1154 Harald's son Sigurd Mund was killed by the followers of
his brother Inge on the quay of Bergen. In 1181 a naval battle took
place near the Nordnses between kings Magnus and Sverre; and in 1188

72 Route 10. BERGEN. Kongshall.

the Kuvlunger and tfskjegger were defeated by Sverre at the naval battle
of Florvaag (near the Ask0). Ten years later, during the so-called 'Bergen
summer'', the rival parties of the Birkebeiner and the Bagler fought against
each other in the town and neighbourhood. In 1223 a national diet was
held at Bergen , at which Haakon, Haakomen's title to the crown was
recognised (a scene dramatised in Ibsen's Kongsemnerne, Act. i.). During
his reign Bergen was the largest and busiest town in Norway, and boasted
of no fewer than thirty churches and monasteries, and of many handsome
buildings, of which but few traces now remain. For its subsequent com-
mercial prosperity the town was indebted to the Hanseatic League, which
established a factory here about the middle of the 15th century. From
the Comptoir of the factory the German merchants were known as Kon-
torske, and the nickname of Qarper (probably from garpa, 'to talk loudly),
was also applied to them. These settlers, having obtained various privi-
leges from the Danish government, gradually succeded in monopolising the
whole trade of northern and western Norway, and in excluding the Eng-
lish, Scottish, and Dutch traders, and even the Norwegians themselves,
from all participation in their traffic. These foreign monopolists, how-
ever, after having wielded their authority with great oppressiveness for
upwards of a century, were succesfully opposed by Christopher Valken-
dorf in 1559, after which their power gradually declined. Their 'Comp-
toir' continued to exist for two centuries more, but at length in 1763 the
last 'Stave' (p. 75) was sold to a native of Norway.

Down to the beginning of the 17th cent. Bergen was a much more
important commercial place than Copenhagen, and even at the beginning
of the 19th cent, it was more populous than Christiania. (At the present
day Christiania carries on 32 per cent of the whole trade of Norway,
while Bergen's proportion is 16 per cent only.)

Among the natives of Bergen who have attained celebrity may be
mentioned Ludwig HoJberg, the traveller, social reformer, and poet (d. 1754),
Johan Welhaven, the poet (d. 1873), J. C. Dahl, the painter (d. 1857), and
Ole Bull (d. 1880), the musician.

Fish has always been the staple commodity of Bergen, which
is the greatest fish-mart in Norway. The Hanseatic merchants
compelled all the northern fishermen and traders to send their flsh
to Bergen, and down to the present day the trade still flows mainly
through its old channels. In May and June occurs the first Nord-
far-Stavne ('arrival of northern seafarers'), when the fishermen of
the N. coasts arrive here with their deeply laden Jagter, the lines
of which recall the shape of the ancient dragon -ships of the
Vikings. Their cargoes consist chiefly of train-oil (manufactured
from the liver of the cod or the torsk, and either 'blank', i. e. co-
lourless, 'brun-blank', or 'brun') and roe (Rogn) ; and in July and
August they bring supplies of 'Klipfisk' and 'Rundflsk' (comp.
p. 245). Bergen also possesses a considerable mercantile fleet,
consisting of about 110 steamers of 40,000 tons burden and 260
sailing-vessels of 52,000 tons. The exports, chiefly consisting of
fish, are valued at about 20,000,000 kr. annually, the imports at
30,000,000 kr. The Bergen ship-building yards are the largest in
Norway (as that of Oeorgernes Verft on the Puddefjord ; Laksevaag
Dampskibsbyggeri , and Bergens Mechaniske Varksted at Solheims-
viken).

Public Buildings. The most interesting are the Kongshall
and *Valkendorfs Taarn near Bergenhus. (Permission to be
obtained from the commandant ; fee to the soldier who acts as

Churches- BERGEN. 10. Route. 73

guide, Y2 kr.). The historically interesting hall, erected in the
13th cent., and once a royal banquet-room, was long sadly neglect-
ed but is now being restored. Valkendorfs Tower, also known as
the Bosenkrantz Tower , originally built by Haakon Haakonsen in
the 13th cent., was enlarged by Rosenkrantz in 1565, and restored
in 1848. The name includes two towers, of which the older is
on the S. side. The interior, which contains several handsome
chimney-pieces, is now used as an Arsenal (interesting flags). The
gallery at the top commands an excellent survey of the harbour
and the town. The parapet bears the inscription : 'Patientia fertilis
arbor'. — The adjoining fortress of Bergenhus contains the House
of Correction ('Slaverief), to the N. of which is the ancient Sver-
resborg, now converted into a promenade (entr. on the side next
the Bergenhus).

Off the fortress of Bergenhus a naval battle took place in 16G5 be-
tween an English fleet of fourteen frigates, commanded by Admiral Thomas
Tiddiman, and a Dutch mercantile fleet of sixty East Indiamen, under
the command of Admiral van Bitter. The Dutch vessels had sought refuge
under the guns of the fortress, the Danish commandant of which, Gen.
Cicignon, without special instructions, took the part of the Hollanders.
The English vessels were ranged in a semicircle extending from Bergen-
hus to Nordnses , while the Dutch lay between Braadbsenken and the
Nykirke. After a contest of three hours, during which several cannon-
balls (now gilded) struck Valkendorf's Tower , the Cathedral, and the
Stadport, the united Dutch and Danish arms were victorious, and the
British fleet was compelled to retreat with a loss of 600 killed and wounded.

On the hill on the opposite side of the harbour rises Fort
Frederiksberg, now a Brandvagt or fire-station, adjoining which is
the Observatory. On this hill there are also several excellent
points of view , one of the finest being the neighbouring For-
skjennelse , between the Nykirke-Almenning and the Holbergs-Al-
menning. The latter 'Plads' derives its name from Ludvig Holberg,
the poet (p. lxxv), who was born in a house here (now demolish-
ed) in 1684.

Churches. Bergen is said to have once boasted of no fewer
than 32 churches , the largest of which were the Christkirke, in
which Haakon Haakonsen (1264) and other Norwegian kings are
interred, the Apostelkirke, an imitation of the Sainte Chapelle at
Paris, St. Olafs, St. Nicholas's, and St. Columbus's. It also
possessed several monasteries , including that of Munkliv on the
Nordnses , the foundations of which were recently discovered in
the Plads called Klosteret, but are not now visible. None of these
buildings, however, now exist, and there are four or five churches
only worthy of notice. The St. Marise Kirke, or Tydsk Kirke, to
the E. of Bergenhus, built in the 12th cent, and extended in the
13th , belonged to the Hanseatic League from 1408 to 1766 (comp.
p. 72). It has a Romanesque nave, a Gothic choir, and two modern
towers, and contains an interesting pulpit and altar. Several of
the interesting Tombstones bear German names, some of which date
from the first half of the present century. When the Kuvlunger

74 Route 10. BERGEN. Cathedral.

were dispersed by King Sverre in 1188, Jon Kuvlung, their chief
was slain, and his remains were buried in this church. In 1206
the Birkenbeiner (Haakon Jarl and Peter Steyger) signally defeated
the Bagler (Philip Jarl and Erling Steinvag) on the ground between
this church and that of St. Lawrence, a little to the N., and a
number of the latter were also interred here.

The Cathedral, or St. Olaf i Vaagsbunden ('at the head of the
creek'), originally a monastery-church, erected in 1248, was
rebuilt in 1537 and restored in 1870. The interior, consisting of
a nave with a single S. aisle, contains nothing worthy of notice.
The Gothic windows and the portal in the lower story of the tower
are interesting. The font consists of a basin inserted in a laurel-
wreath borne by an angel suspended from the ceiling. — Near the
Cathedral are the Kathedral-Skole, the Latin-Skole, the Sefarendes-
Fattighus (sailors' hospital), and the Spetal, or St. Jergen's Hospital,
for the reception of 'Spedalske' or lepers.

The Korskirke, or Church of the Cross, in the Hollaender-
gade, where Nils Klim, famous by Holberg's' Subterranean Journey'
(p. lxxv), was once sacristan, is uninteresting. — In the neigh-
bourhood are the streets of the Skomagere , Skinnere , Bagere,
Ouldsmede, and Bariskmrere, deriving their names from the 'flf
Amten' or five handicrafts of the German artizans once settled
here. The great fire of 1855 extended to this point. — > The
Nykirke on the Nordn;es is a plain edifice, but the Roman Catholic
St. Paulskirke (PI. 4) deserves notice.

At the head (S.E. end) of the harbour, lies the Toev, or
Market Place, adjoined on the N. by the Vitterslevs-Almenning, and
on the S. by the Torve-Almenning. In the former is situated, the
new Covered Market, usually known as the Basar, a handsome
edifice in brick and stone, completed in 1877; it contains the
Fisheries Museum (open on "Wed. & Sun., 11-1) and the Public
Library (open 12-1 and 5-7). From this point a winding road as-
cends to the spurs of the Fleifjeld, or we may proceed to the left
through the 0vre Gade to the Mariaekirke. In the opposite direc-
tion is the Torve-Almenning, ascending to the S., and containing
the handsomest modern buildings in the city, including the Ex-
change (PI. 2), the principal banks, and some of the best shops. In
front of the Exchange, in the Vaags-Almenning, is a Statue ofHol-
berg (p. lxxv), by J. Borjeson. At the top of the hill rises the Statue
of Christie, the president of the first Norwegian Storthing, which
concluded the convention with Sweden in 1814 (conip. p. 118).
The statue is by Borch. The right hand holds a scroll bearing the
words, 'Norge Riges Grundlov' ('fundamental law of the Kingdom
of Norway'). — From the Torv, at the head of the harbour, projects
a pier called Triangelen from its shape, at which the fishermen of
the neighbourhood, derisively called Striler, usually land their
fish or sell it from their boats. The *Fish Market held here is very

Tydskebryggen. BERGEN. 10. Route. 75

interesting, especially on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 8 to 10
o'clock.

To the N. of the Torv, on the N.W. side of the harbour, ex-
tends Tydskebryggen, or the German Quay, bordered with a long
series of warehouses, painted white, with large windows. In front
of each rises a wooden Vippebom, or crane of simple and primitive
construction, used in unloading the fish brought to Bergen by the
Northmen's smacks. The Tydskebrygge , the ancient Hanseatic
quarter, assumed its present form after the fire of 1702. Here
resided the clerks of the Hanseatic merchants of Bremen, Liibeck,
and other towns belonging to the League. Owing probably to the
jealousy subsisting between the rival nations, these clerks were for-
bidden to marry. There were sixteen different gaards , named as
follows (reckoned from the Torv) : Finnegaarden , Dramshusen,
Bratten, Leppen, Ravelsgaarden, Solegaarden, Kappen, Kjalderen
(which contained the old Exchange), and the Holmedals, Jacobs,
Svends, Enhernings, Breds, Bue, Engel, Sestet, and Ouldsho Oaarde.
Each gaard was subdivided into Staver, or suites of apartments,
belonging to different proprietors, who met on certain occasions
in their Skyttningsstave, or council-room. A chamber of this kind
is still preserved in the Dramshus. In the Klaven, or small rooms
on the second or third floor, were lodged the servants of the
establishment. Yngvar Nielsen, in his history of Bergen (Christia-
nia, 1877), points out that the Skyttningsstue and the whole ar-
rangement of these gaards are of genuine old Norwegian origin,
and were not imported from Germany. Each gaard was presided
over by a Bygherre, and each merchant had a clerk and one or
more servants (Byleber) resident here.

The Hanseatic Museum in the Finnegaard (open 11-3, small fee; cata-
logue, in four languages, 1 kr.), founded by Mr. W. J. Olsen, gives an ex-
cellent representation of the manner in which the Gaards were fitted up and
contains also a collection of articles belonging to the old Hanseatic
merchants, including furniture, weapons, and fire-extinguishing apparatus,
mostly dating from the latest Hanseatic period. On the Ground-Floor were
the warehouses ; on the First Floor is an outer room leading to the kSta-
ven\ or office of the manager, with his eating and sleeping apartment
behind; and on the Second Floor are the ^Klaven?, or sleeping apart-
ments of the clerks and servants. — As the use of fire or light in the
main building was forbidden, a common room (Skjetstuen) for the use of
all the inmates of each Gaard, was erected at some little distance behind
it, near the vegetable gardens. The remains of only a few of these are
now extant; but one has lately been restored in the Dramshus.

On the peninsula of Nordnaes, extending from the Torve-
Almenning to the N.W., lies the greater part of the town, the
principal streets in which are the long and busy Strand-Gade and
Markevei. In the Muralmenning is an old building called Muren
('the wall'), with a passage through it. One of the finest views in
Bergen is obtained from the Frederiksberg (p. 73), the highest
part of the Nordn»s. At the S.E. end of the Nordnfes, and a little
to the W. of the Torve-Almenning, lies Engen (formerly Jonsvold),

76 Route 10. BERGEN. Museum.

the largest 'Plads' in the town, where the Theatre (W. angle) and
the Picture Gallery (open on Mon., Wed., & Frid., 11-1 ; 20 ».)
of the Kunstforening (near the E. corner) are situated. The latter
chiefly contains modern works, including a number by Tidemand,
Bodom, and Eckersberg. Among the older pictures are : Mary,
Princess of England, by Van Dyck ; an Entombment, by T. Mengs ;
and the Inhabitants of Riigen seeking to purchase their liberty from
the Holsteiners, a drawing by Carstens (1779).

The Museum, a handsome building completed in 1865, on
the Syancesnoug, a hill rising to the S. of Engen, 'contains several
valuable collections. It is reached either by following Olaf
Kyrre's Oade, which passes on the left the large and handsome
building of the Arbeider-Forening (artizans' club), and then turn-
ing to the left into Christie's Oade ; or by the latter street, which
passes the Lille Lungegaardsvand, the Railway Station (PL 1),
and the tastefully built Roman Catholic church (p. 74) on the left.
The Museum is open to the public on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays, 11-1 o'clock; on Sundays, 11.30 to 1.30 and (in summer)
4-6 ; at other times admission 25 m. each person. On the ground-
floor is the Library (Tues.. Thurs., Sat., 11-1).

In the entrance-hall , to the right , are two carved wooden Church-
portals from Sognedal, probably 16th cent., and several Runic monuments.
The Antiquarian Collection (good catalogue by Lorange, 50 0), on the ground-
floor, consists chiefly of tankards, and carved cabinets, wardrobes, and
beds, including a handsome bedstead of the 17th cent., probably of Dutch
workmanship, and a curious writing-desk of the same period. — The
Ethnographical Collection comprises china, drinking-horns, guns, early
frescoes , well-preserved ecclesiastical vessels, fonts in soapstone, and a
fine altar-piece in carved oak with wings, probably Cologne workmanship
of the beginning of the 16th cent. ; also implements of the flint and early
iron periods.

The Natural Histovy Collection (first floor; catalogue 25 0.) comprises
an interesting and very complete set of specimens of Norwegian fish and
marine animals (several fine seals and walruses , curious sun-fish, etc.),
all of which are labelled with the Norwegian and the Latin names.

Behind the Museum is the *Nygaards Park, the prettily laid
out grounds of which command fine views.

Walks. One of the most interesting walks in the immediate
vicinity of the town is afforded by the *Fjeldvei, a new road
running along the side of the Fleifjeld, to the N.E. of the town,
and commanding an extensive view of the town and environs.
We may ascend to it from the Vitterlevs - Almenning , on the N.
side of the town, proceed towards the N. till we get a view of
Sandviken, and then return and follow the road to its S. extremity
(l3/4 M. ; *View of the Lungegaards Vand). We may then descend
to the small park of Forskjennelsen (PI. 12). — A more extensive
view is gained from the iron vane, orFLeien, at the top of the hill
(985 ft.), to which it has given its name.

Another interesting walk may be taken to the N. of the Marise-
kirke, passing to the E. of the Sverresborg, to Skudeviken, and
along the coast to Sandviken, with the Storemelle . We may return

Environs. BERGEN 10. Route. 77

thence by ascending the bank of the Mul-Elv, which issues from
the Skr&dderdal, as far as Smaamellen, and crossing the hill by a
road which passes the Bothoug. A number of pleasant villas are
passed, and a fine view obtained of the Skjaergaard (/belt of
islands', of which the Ask» is the most important) and of the
mountains to the S. of Bergen. — The mountain-brow above Sand-
viken, reached via the Skrsedderdal (no path), commands a magni-
ficent view. We may descend to the N. and reach a new road by
the Langevand, which leads in windings to Sandviken. We may
also ascend to the E. from the Skrsedderdal to the top of the Blaa-
mand (1805 ft.) and descend to Isdal and Svartediket.

A very favourite walk is from the Cathedral by Kong Oscar's
Gade, past the pretty Cemetery of St. Jacob, which contains a
monument to Christie (p. 74), to the Stadsport (PI. 9), where the
municipal archives are preserved. To the right, farther on, is
the finely situated Cemetery, whence we obtain a beautiful view
of Ulriken, L»vstakken, and other hills rising beyond the Store
Lungegaardsvand. To the left, at the base of the Fleifjeld, amid
rich, vegetation, are a number of pleasant villas. We next ob-
serve the public promenade called Forskjennelsen (p. 76), and on
the right the Pleiestiftelse for lepers (medical men admitted on
presentation of visiting card) and the Lungegaards Hospital. About
lOmin. walk from the Stadsport is Kalfaret ('Calvary'; connected
with which there was formerly a 'Jerusalem' and a 'Nobiskrug').
The road in a straight direction leads to Fleen and Mellendal.
That ascending to the left leads into the Kalvedal (refreshments).
Farther on, about llfa Engl. M. from the gate, is *Svartediket,
a lake enclosed by barren rocks, whence Bergen is supplied with
water. The Ulriken, to the S.E., is a very conspicuous object
from this point. The scene here is so bleak that it is difficult
to believe that we are almost within a stone's throw of rich
vegetation. About 1/2 nr- farther on is the picturesque gorge of
Isdalen.

We may now cross the outlet of the lake, proceed to the right to
Mellen, and descend by a beautiful shady road to the Store Lungegaards-
vand, whence a road leads back to Kalfaret, while another leads to the
S. round this picturesque sheet of water to the Nygaardslro, the bridge
crossing the Store Strttm. This 'stream' connects the Lungegaardsvand
with the Solheimsvik (and the Puddefjord), and the tide which flows in
and out serves as a motive power for several mills, which are thus always
kept going except at high and at low water.

A short excursion may be taken from Nestet, to the W. of Engen,
by a small steamer which starts from the landing-place here every '/* hr. 1
across the Puddefjord to Laxevaag , with its large shipbuilding-yards
and dry docks. We then walk to the pretty Gravdal at the foot of the
Lyderhorn fl350 ft.), which may easily be ascended from this point, or to the
E. along the bank of the fjord, passing pleasant villas, to Solheimsviken ,
with its extensive Mekanisk Vwrktted, and to the Nygaardsbro (see above).

The ascent of Lgvstakken (1570 ft. ; p. 70), a splendid point of view,
takes 4-6 hrs. (incl. return).

Excursions to Fjetanger and the estate of Fantoft, see p. 78; from
Nestun to Fane, the Convent of Lyse, and Os, see p. 53.

78 Route 11. GARN^ES.

A pleasant trip may be taken in the small steamer which plies on
the two Lungegaard Lakes (every i/l hr.). A visit may also be paid by
steamboat to Askjaen, the large island in the Skjsergaard to the N.W. of
Bergen (1 hr.); the Udsigt (Dyrteigen, lh hr.) here commands a splendid
panorama of the sea and coast.

1 1 . From Bergen to Vossevangen and on to Eide on the
Hardangerfjord or to Gudvangen on the Sognefjord.

The Railway (^Voisebane') from Bergen to Vossevangen (108 Kil. or
66 Engl. M., in 4 hrs. 25 min. ; fares 7 kr. 70, 3 kr. 85 0.), opened in 1882,
has greatly facilitated access to the inner ramifications of the Hardanger-
fjord and the Sognefjord. — From Vossevangen to Eide, 30 Kil. (19'/2
Engl. M.), and from Vossevangen to Gudvangen, 48 Kil. (30 Engl. M.),
roads with 'fast' stations. — Diligence, see p. 79.

Bergen, see R. 10. — The railway (station, see p. 69; best
views to the left) passes through a shoit tunnel immediately after
leaving Bergen, crosses the Store Strain, and runs towards the S.,
skirting the base of the Vlriken, which here rises to the left. —
2 Kil. Solheimsviken. — 5 Kil. Fjesanger, with pretty villas, on
the Nordaasvand, adorned with its verdant islets. Near the station
is the beautiful estate of Fantoft, belonging to Mr. Gade, the Amer-
ican Consul. Visitors are freely admitted to the grounds, where
an old 'Stavekirke' from Fortun (p. 158) has been re-erected. —
8 Kil. Hop.

The railway then gradually ascends to(10Kil.)iVes<M»i or Nedst-
tun (telegraph-station), near Midtunbro, which possesses some
marble-quarries. The station commands a splendid view over the
surrounding country.

Nestun has a 'fast' skyds-station. A delightful drive may be taken
to the (8 Kil.) church of Fane, whence the Fanefjeld (ca. 980 ft.) may be
ascended, and back via Birkeland (11 Kil.). — This excursion may be ex-
tended, past the Kallandsvand, to the convent of Lyse and Os (20 Kil.
from Nestun ; see p. 53).

The train now turns suddenly to the N.E., crosses the Nestun-
Elv several times, and enters the Langedal, passing through
five tunnels and skirting the W. bank of the Orimenvand and
the Haukelandsvand. 18 Kil. Haukeland-Lone, at the N. end
of the latter lake, on the banks of which there are several gaards.
25 Kil. Arne, with a church, at the S. end of the Arnevaag, a
narrow branch of the Serefjord.

29 Kil. Garnses (70 ft.), on the Serefjord, opposite Hausviken.
The train now descends along the S. bank of the lake. The con-
struction of the railway here is of considerable interest ; no fewer
than eleven short tunnels are traversed before the next station. The
N. bank of the fjord is formed by the island of Ostere.

39 Kil. (24i/2 Engl. M.) Trengereid (M. Trengereid's Inn),
whence the Oulfjeld (3235 ft.), commanding an extensive pano-
rama, may be ascended (5 hrs., there and back; landlord of the inn
as guide, 4 kr.). — The train passes through ten more tunnels and
runs to the N. along the E. bank of the Osterfjord, affording a

VOSSEVANGEN. 11. Route 79

view of the Oster» and the church of Brudvik. On the pretty Vlfs-
nas-0 a new boarding-school has been built. The train crosses the
Vaxdal-Elv and reaches (51 Kil.) Vaxdal (telegraph-station), with
a large mill. Then, after five tunnels, the longest penetrating the
Hattaparti, (59 Kil.) Stanghelle, where the train crosses the Stang-
hellestrem, descending to the Osterfjord from the Dalevaagen.
Tunnel. Between (66 Kil.) Dole (short branch to the Dale Fabriker)
and the next station nine tunnels are passed, one of which is the
longest (1406 yds.) on the line. The train now reaches the S. bank
of the Bolstadsfjord, an arm of the Osterfjord.

About 15-20 Kil. to the N. of this point is the picturesque Eksingdal,
with its numerous waterfalls. Eidet, at the mouth of the valley, is touch-
ed at twice weekly by a Bergen steamer, and a road is being constructed
through it. The finest part is above Flatekval. Farther up are mountain-
paths leading to Evanger, Voss, Vinge, and the Arnefjord. The accom-
modation in the valley ia indifferent.

78 Kil. Bolstad (Inn), at the E. end of the fjord of that name,
almost entirely enclosed by rocky hills, is visited several times
weekly by the Bergen steamers. The train passes through eight
tunnels, ascends the left bank of the Vosse-Elv, which here forms
several rapids, and then skirts the S. bank of the Evangervand.

88 Kil. Evanger (25 ft. ; Monseris Hotel, well spoken of ; tele-
graph-station), at the head of the lake of that name. The village,
with the church and inn, lies opposite the station, on the N. bank
of the Vosse-Elv, which here enters the Evangervand. To the S.
towers the Myklethveitveten (3755 ft.), which may be ascended from
Evanger in 2-3 hrs. and commands an extensive view of the Har-
danger (guide, Jacob A. Evanger, 2l/2 kr.). — Farther on the train
follows the left bank of the Vosse-Elv, which expands at places till
it looks more like a lake than a river. Crossing the river and thread-
ing the fifty-second and last tunnel it runs past (99 Kil.) Bulken,
and along the N. bank of the picturesque Vangsvand (120 ft.), to
(108 Kil., 65 Engl. M.) —

Voss or Vossevangen. — Hotels. "Fleischer's Hotel and Station,
near the station and lake, E. I1/2, D. 2, B. l'/z, S. lVz kr. ; Johnsen's Ho-
tel, next door to the last, well spoken of, R. from l]/2 kr. ; Vossevangen
Hotel, kept by Dykeeten, in the village, unpretending (good cuisine), E.
l'/4-2, D. 2, S. 1 kr. 20 0.; Kjellek's Hotel, new, with 25 beds, English
spoken; H. S0rheim's Hotel. — If the hotels are full, accommoda-
tion may be obtained in lodging-houses, indicated by tickets. — Telegraph.
Station.

Carriages. It is usual to engage carriages here (at the skyds-charge
of 17 0. per Kil.) for the whole route to Eide or Gudvangen , as much
time is otherwise lost in changing horses.

Diligence to Eide daily, in 3 hrs., starting generally at 11 a.m. (on
Wed. 8, on Thurs. 6.45 a.m. ; fare 4 kr.); in the reverse direction in 3'/4
hrs., leaving Eide at 5 p.m. (Mon. & Thurs. 11 a.m.; fare 4'/2 kr.). —
To Gudvangen, daily, in 71/t hrs. (incl. 2 hrs. at Stalheim), starting at
10 a.m. (Wed. & Thurs. 8 a.m. ; fare 7 kr.).

Vossevangen (125 ft.) is charmingly situated at the E. end of the
Vangsvand, and is admirably suited for a prolonged stay. It com-
mands a view to the S. of the lofty and imposing Oraasiden (4250 ft.).

80 Route 11. SKJERVET.

The stone Church, dating from the 13th cent., contains an ancient
altar-piece, several memorial tablets of the 17th and 18th cent.,
a candelabrum of 1733, and a Bible of 1589. (The 'Kirketjener', or
sacristan, lives in the house to the N.W.) L. Holberg, the Danish
poet, was tutor at the parsonage in 1702. The admirably cultivated
environs of Vossevangen may be termed the kitchen-garden of Ber-
gen. Large farms lie on every side , exhibiting an area of tilled
land very unusual in Norway.

About lfc M. from Vossevangen, in the direction of Bergen, amid log-
houses above the main road, is the Finnefod, an old log-church now used
as a barn. The large oaken columns at the door still exist and show the
characteristic Norman carving on their capitals. The Norman arch above
the door is also carved.

From Vossevangen to Eidb (30 Kil. ; fast stations ; carriole
17 ». per Kil.). The road leads to the S.E., at first skirting the
Vosse-Elv, and then gradually ascending to its highest point (858 ft.).
The country is pretty and well cultivated , but somewhat mono-
tonous. The silver fir is seen here at intervals. The road then
descends gradually and crosses the boundary of the Hardanger
('Harang') district. A number of marshy ponds impart a dark brown
colour to the water of the Skjerves-Elv , which flows southwards.
The upper part of the valley terminates suddenly (as at Stalheim,
p. 110), and the road descends in zigzags into the profound and
picturesque valley known as *Skjervet, flanked with imposing
rocks. On the left the Skjervefos is precipitated over the black
slate rock in two halves, the upper resembling a veil. The road
crosses a bridge between the two parts of the fall. The vegetation
becomes richer as we descend, the lime and the ash occurring fre-
quently here. Farther on we pass a number of old moraines.

22 Kil. Seim i Graven, or 0vre Vasenden (tolerable station ;
Nsesheim's Hotel, a little farther on, R. 3/4-I kr., B. 80 0., D. 1-
IV2 kr.), is prettily situated on the Oravensvand , the E. bank of
which is skirted by the road. Opposite rises the lofty Nmsheims-
horgen. From Oravens-Kirke, about halfway between Vasenden and
Eide, a very steep and hilly road crosses the mountain to (17 Kil.;
pay for 32) TJlvik (p. 59), a beautiful walk or ride of 4^2 hrs. , but
hardly suitable for driving. We next pass Nedre Vasenden, at the
lower end of the Gravensvand, pass through a rocky defile, and
soon reach —

8 Kil. Eide (see p. 59).

From Vossevangen to Gudvangen, 48 Kil., a drive of about
6 hrs. (see p. 78).

This excursion should be so arranged that the night is spent at the
beautifully situated Stalheim's Hotel (p. 110), and the traveller should
disregard all the representations of the agents of the wayside inns. Car-
riole to Stalheim's Hotel (36 Kil.) 6 kr. 12 0.

VOSSESTRANDEN. 12. Route. 81

The road threads apicturesque ravine, ascends the Vossestrands-
Elv, and skirts the E. banks of the Lundarvand and Lenevand,
from which that river issues. Fertile, wooded district. To the left
towers the precipitous Lenehorjen (4570 ft.), to the right the
horn-shaped Hondalsnut (4990 ft.), each of which maybe ascended
from Vossevangen in 5-6 hrs. (almost the whole way on horseback);
they command a splendid view of the glaciers to the E. and N.E.
of the Eidfjord.

12 Kil. Tvinde i Voss (225 ft.), a poor station, with a new hotel.
To the left is the beautiful Tvindefos. The road now becomes
steeper, and crosses the river by the Asbrcekke Bro. (To see the
fall of that name, we descend a few paces ; caution necessary.) "We
again cross the river. The valley is shut in by lofty wooded cliffs.
About l/i hr. before Vinje the Vossestrands-Elv receives the Mer-
kadals-Elv, along which a well-trodden path leads to Aarmot and
Vik (10-12 hrs. ; p. 116).

10 Kil. Vinje i Vossestranden (960 ft.; Hotel, well spoken of),
situated in the midst of pleasant scenery. The road now runs to
the E. to the Opheimsvand (970 ft.), and passes the Opheims-Kirke
(Opheim's Hotel, R. 3/4-l kr., B, 80, S. 80 e., D. li/2 kr., cuisine
well spoken of; Lady Brassey Hotel), picturesquely situated on the
bank of this lake. The ring of lofty mountains here, consisting
mainly of light grey felspath, produces a curious effect. To the S.
rises the Malmagrensnaave (3600 ft.), to the E. the Aaxlen and
Kaldafjeld (3940 ft.).

We now cross the watershed between the Bolstadsfjord and the
Sognefjord, and reach the Nceredals-Elv, which flows into the latter,
not far from the former station Stalheim i Vossestranden , near the
top of the magnificent Stalheimsklev (1120 ft.; *Stalheim's Hotel),
a precipitous slope which the road descends in windings to the
Nceredal (275 ft.), commanding a magnificent view (see p. 110).

26 Kil. Oudvangen, see p. 110.

12. From Ghristiania through the Hallingdal to
Lserdalseren on the Sognefjord (Bergen).

The Hallingdal route to Lserdalsgren takes 4 days. The grandeur of
the scenery between Christiania and the Sognefjord increases as the
traveller proceeds from E. to W. , so that either the route through the
Hallingdal or that through the Valders (R. 13) should be selected in going
to Bergen, while the return-journey may be made either by way of the
Romsdal (p. 196 and R. 15), or by Throndhjem and the railway (R. 26),
or by sea round the S. coast.

344 Kil. (214 Engl. M.). Railway to (122 Kil.) Krederen, express in
43/« hrs. (fares 6 kr. 55, 4 kr. 15 0.), ordinary train in 5'/2 hrs. (fares
6 kr., 3 kr. 75 0.). Steamer thence to (38 Kil.) Gulsvik daily in 2lh-
3 hrs. (fare 2kr. 40 0., 1 kr.). Thence by a good, but at places very hillv
Road to (184 Kil.) Icerdalseiren, in 2-3 days. The pleasantest way of dividing
the journey is as follows : (1st Day) From Christiania to Gulsvik. (2nd) From
Gulsvik to Jlolfshus. (3rd) From Rolfshus to Breistelen or Hceg. (4th) Thence

Baedekek's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. Q

82 Route 13. KR0DEREN. From Christiania

to Lcerdalseren. Or the first night may be spent at Noes, the second at Bje-
berg, and the third at Lcerdalseren. If, however, the traveller is much
pressed for time, it is possible, by travelling 14-18 hrs. a day, to reach Lser-
dalstfren in 2 days (spending the night at Rolfshus). As almost all the
stations on this route are either comfortable or at least very tolerable,
the traveller may divide the journey as best suits his convenience. The
stations to be avoided as affording little or no accommodation are
Aaveslrud, Bortnces , Viko, and Kleven. The charge for a horse and car-
riole is 17 0. per Kil. at all the stations on this route. Adding to this the
usual gratuity of 15 0. per 10 Kil. , the total cost of horses and carrioles
from Gulsvik to Lterdal is about 38 kr. for each person. For a carriage
with a hood, and a pair of horses ('Caleschvogn'), for two persons, 100 kr.
is the usual fare, to which must be added a gratuity of 5-6 kr.

The most direct route from Christiania to the Sognefjord is through
the Hallingdal, and the new Bergen and Vossevangen railway is to be
continued through this valley ; but the scenery is inferior to that on the
V alders route. The lower part of the Hallingdal is somewhat monotonous
in character, while the greater part of the Hemsedal is very bleak and
dreary. Frbm the upper ramifications of the Hallingdal diverge several
wild mountain-passes to the Sognefjord and Hardanger Fjord, but the
traveller who crosses them must be prepared for privations. The name
of Hallingdal is applied not merely to the valley itself, but to all the
numerous lateral valleys from which streams descend to the Hallingdals-
Klv, that is, to the entire district which is bounded on the N. and E.
by Valders, on the S. by the Numedal, and on the W. by the Hardanger
region.

Owing to the long isolation of this district, and especially of its side
valleys, from the rest of the world, many of its old Norwegian charac-
teristics have survived ; and the traveller will often meet with curious old
buildings, carved wooden tankards and furniture, and picturesque costumes.
The people are remarkable for the tenacity with which they adhere to
their ancient customs and numerous traditions, many of which may here
be traced to their historical origin. Of this district it has been said that
'the kuife lies loosely in its sheath', and the inhabitants unfortunately
still sometimes betray the irascible and passionate disposition which used
to find vent in the 'girdle duel1, where the combatants CBwltespcender*)
were bound together with their belts and fought with their knives (p. 341).
As an outcome of this excitable temperament may be mentioned the wild
II 'ailing dans or Spt'ingdans, accompanied by a weird kind of music ('Fani-
tvllen1) which has been ascribed to satanic influence. — In connection with
this subject the reader is referred to the following works: 'Norsk Lyrik\
Christiania, 1874, containing 'Asgaardsrejen', a poem by Welhaveii , and
'Fanitullen', another by Hoe ; 'Sflgnir fra Hallingdal' by E. Nielsen; and
'Xorske Bygdesagn by L. Daae.

Railway from Christiania to (96 Kil.) Vikersund , see R. 2.
A branch-line (carriages changed) leads hence to (12 Ki\.~) Snarum
and —

26 Kil. Krederen [Restaurant ; *Inn , opposite the station,
clean and comfortable), prettily situated at the S. end of Lake
Kr«deren (445 ft.), and near the efflux of the Snarums-Elv, which
falls into the Drammens-Elv near Aamot. The steamboat-pier is
10 min. walk from the station. The lower part of the lake is narrow
atid shallow, and its banks are smiling and tolerably well cultivated;
but it afterwards expands, and the scenery assumes a more moun-
tainous character , especially beyond N»s , where the imposing
Norefjeld rises on the left, 4500 ft. above the lake.

The interesting Asokst ok Tin: Noekimkld (10 hrs.) is best made from
Nore, where the road crosses the narrowest part of the Krpderen. We

to Lardalseren. IIALLINGDAL. 12. Route. 83

proceed to the N. along the lake to (4 Kil.) Skadsel and then ascend to
the left, by a steep bridle-track, to the Sandum Sceter, which affords a
fine view of Krtfderen. Beyond the seeter our route runs to the N.W.
through wood, crossing a lofty plateau which commands a good view of
the Oausta and other mountains of Telemarken, and also of the Eggedal.
From the plateau we continue to ascend to the Augunshaug (3980 ft. ;
wide -View). Little is lost by omitting to climb the Hegevarde (5620 ft.),
which rises 5-6 Kil. to the N.W. From the Augunshaug we may descend
directly to the E. to Tungen and Bingnces, the latter a 'fast' station,
11 Kil. from Olberg and 17 Kil. (pay for 25) from Gulsvik. From the
Htfgevarde we may descend to the N.E. through the valley of the Guls-
vik-Elv to (7 hrs.) Gulsvik (see below).

Between 2^2 and S'/o hrs. after leaving Krederen the steamer
reaches —

Gulsvik (160 Kil. from Christiania ; 510 ft.). at the mouth of
the Hallingdal (see pp.82, 85). Theskyds-station (good quarters)
is about 3/4 Engl. M. from the lake. In the neighbourhood are the
.Vfemaastue, a fine old timber-built house ('Bjelkestue'), and several
other buildings of the 16th and 17th centuries. Gulsvik, though
presenting no particular attraction, is a good place for spending
the night. The next suitable station, to which travellers arriving
about 3.30 p.m. may drive the same evening (in about 5 hrs.), is
Ncrs (see below). The road follows the W. side of the valley of
the Hallingdals-Elv. It is nearly level all the way to Naes.

14 Kil. Aavetsrud (poor quarters). The scenery is pleasing,
though somewhat monotonous. The road passes several lake-like
expansions of the Hallingdals-Elv, on one of which, known as the
Brummavand (575 ft.), upwards of 18 Kil. long, is situated —

17 Kil. Berrtnas. At the upper end of the lake we next
reach —

11 Kil. Naes (good and inexpensive quarters at 0ieys and
Schwenkerud's), a considerable village, with a handsome church, a
jail, and a number of shops. The pretty grounds of Buvandsbrenna,
the property of General Wergeland, are open to travellers. [In the
reverse direction travellers may also descend the river from Naes
to Gulsvik by boat (5-6 hrs. ; 8-10 kr.). In spite of the numerous
rapids, the trip is unattended with danger when the river is moder-
ately full.]

Fkom ~$ms to Lake Spieilles, about 45 Kil., a walk of J.0-11 hrs. (guide
unnecessary). A well-defined sseter-path ascends to the E. to Late Strtren,
which affords good fishing (quarters for the night at one of the sseters),
in 3-4 hrs., and by Djupedal in 3-4 hrs. more to Ildjarnstad (p. 89), whence
Nws in the Aadal, at the head of Lake Spirillen, is about 22 Kil. distant
(comp. p. 89).

Another sseter-path ascends the mountains to the W. of Necs to the
Tunhevd-Fjord in about 6 hrs. (p. 25).

Above Naes the scenery continues to be of a pleasing character.
About halfway between Naes and Viko the road crosses to the left
bank of the river. Farther on is Rolfshus (*Serensen's Hotel & Pen-
sion, with garden; civil landlord, who speaks English), a favourite
resort and pleasant stopping -place. Near Viko the valley trends
towards the W.

84 Route 12. HEMSEDAL. From Christiania

20 Kil. Viko (700 ft.; indifferent quarters), beautifully situ-
ated on the Hallingdals-Elv. The river affords tolerable fishing
here , and the Tisleivand , a large lake among the mountains,
13 Kil. to the N. (see below), is said to be abundantly stocked
with trout.

From Viko to the Valders Route (10-12 hrs.). The path ascends
very steeply for 3/t hr., and then gradually for 3 hrs. more to the Fjeld-
vidde ('table-land'), passing several sseters. The Tisleivand (2800 ft.;
about 8 Engl. M. in length), a lake which here forms the boundary between
the Iiallingdal and Valders districts, is then crossed by boat, after which
we descend to (6 hrs.) Stende, a farm-house on the Strandefjord, cross the
lake by a long bridge to t/lnws-Kirke, and proceed thence either up the
Aurdal to (7 Kil.) Fosheim, or down the valley to (8 Kil.) Fagerlund (p. 91).

About 2 Kil. above Rolfshus the Hallingdals-Elv is joined by
the Hemsila, descending from the N.W., while the former river
descends from the Upper Hallingdal, from the W. (p. 83). The
road soon crosses the Hemsil, 'which here forms a fine waterfall.
Beyond the bridge our route quits the Hallingdal and ascends the
Hemsedal, or valley of the Hemsila, mounting the tedious Oola-
bnkker in long windings, and passing halfway up within sight of the
church of Gol. Beyond (10 Kil.) Lestegaard (1440 ft.) the road
crosses the river and follows the E. side of the valley, passing
several farms. TheW. side and the bottom of the valley are uncultiv-
ated. About 5 Kil. farther on we reach the poor station of —

16 Kil. Eleven i Qol (tolerable quarters), where the scenery
becomes uninteresting, and 4 Kil. beyond which is Ekre (2600ft.).

Fi:o.m Kkre to the Valders Route (10-12 hrs.). A rough sseter-
path ascends from Ekre to the 'Heier\ passes the Vannenvand and the
Storsjer at the base of the huge Skogshorn (5660 ft.), traverses the district
of Li/kkja, with its scattered houses, and leads to the (5 hrs.) Fosseim-
Sseter, at the S. end of the long Svenskenvand (2860 ft.; good fishing),
built fur the use of travellers and anglers. Crossing the lake by boat,
and passing several sseters , we then descend to the station of Fos-
heim (p. 94).

Another route to Valders diverges from our road at Ulsaker, between
Ekre and Tuf, ascends past the base of the Skogshorn (see above) to the Hel-
singvand, skirts the E. bank of the Hundsendvand, and leads to the Grunken-
Gaard, where it crosses the Smaadela, falling into the Svenskenvand. It
then leads along the Smaad0la to the N. end of the Helevand and the
V mends- Sceter, past the base of the Grindefjeld (5600 ft.), and descends
to Grindaheim (p. 95), about 13-14 hrs. distant from Ekre.

Beyond Ekre, on the opposite bank of the Hemsila, rises the
Veslehorn, over which are precipitated four small waterfalls,
descending from a mountain-lake, and uniting into a single impos-
ing cascade during the melting of the snow. The road passes
through Kirkebe , an uninviting village near which is Hemsedals-
Kirke, the last church in the Hallingdal, and 7 Kil. farther reaches
the station of —

20 Kil. Tuf (^Station; Oaard Fauske, 3 min. from the road
a fair country-inn) , at the confluence of the Orendela and the
Hemsil. The rivers, and a lake 5 Kil. distant, afford tolerable
fishing.

to Lardalseren. UPPER HALLINGDAL. 12. Route. 85

From Tuf to Nystukn (15-16 hrs.). A tolerable road ascends the
Grmdal, the valley of the Grtfndflla opening on the N., after which a
bridle-path, passing several sseters, traverses the Merlcvanddal and crosses
the mountains , where reindeer are frequently seen , to Nystuen on the
Valders route (p. 96).

Near Tuf the Hemsila forms the Rjukande Fos ('smoking fall').
All traces of cultivation now cease, and a few scattered s<eters
replace the farms of the lower part of the valley. The road as-
cends rapidly, and traverses a bleak and desolate, but grand and
imposing valley called the Merkedal. This stage, being unusually
long and hilly, takes fully 3 hours.

20 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 30) Bjeberg (3320 ft.;
*Station; excellent headquarters for reindeer -stalking; pair of
antlers 8-10 kr.), the last station in the Hallingdal, is a solitary
gaard in a wild and dreary situation, at the foot of the Hemsedals-
fjeld. About 7 Kil. farther on we pass a column marking the boun-
dary between the 'Stift' of Christiania and that of Bergen, beyond
which we skirt the precipitous Kjelberg on the left and the Eldre-
vand on the right. To the N.E. rises the Jekuleggen (6280 ft.).
The road, which is the highest in Norway, now soon reaches its
culminating point (3790 ft.), and then descends rapidly to —

15 Kil. (pay for 22 in either direction) Breistelen {Station,
unpretending, but good), beyond which there is an almost con-
tinuous and latterly steep descent, passing several waterfalls, to the
bridge of Berlaug on the Valders route (p. 97). From Tuf over
the Hemsedalsfjeld to this point (about 40 Kil., for which 7-8 hrs.
should be allowed in either direction) the scenery is very wild and
bleak , but the road now enters the highly picturesque valley of
the Lardals-Elv. A little below the bridge is —

12 Kil. (pay for 15, but in the opposite direction for 19) Haeg
(Hotel, well spoken of), see p. 97. — From Haeg to Lardalseren,
(39 Kil.), see pp. 97-99.

Upper Hallingdal.

The Hallingdal in the narrower sense, or main valley (Hoveddal-
feiret), ascends to the W. from Viko (p. 84) to the wild and desolate re-
gions of the Hailing than en, the mountains forming the S. prolongation of
the Fillefjeld and the Hemsedalsfjeld, and across which paths lead N.W.
to the Sognefjord and S.W. to the Hardanger Fjord. With this district
are associated some of the most famous of Norwegian sagas, such as that
of the Yilland family , and the inhabitants retain more of their ancient
characteristics than those of almost any other part of Norway. With the
exception of the higher mountains, however, the scenery is neither verv
picturesque nor imposing.

About 2 Kil. above Viko the road to the Upper Hallingdal
leaves the high-road to Lserdalseren, turning sharply to the left
immediately after crossing the bridge over the Hemsil. About 6 Kil.
farther on EUefsmoen is passed, beyond which we reach —

15 Kil. (from Viko) Nybgaarden i Torpe (1015 ft.) Near the
station stand within one wall the old timber-built Church of Torpe

86 Route 1:'. UPPER 11 ALL1NGDAL. From Cliristiania

and its successor. The old church is now disused and dismantled,
but the carved porch and doors are very fine. The old carvings
have been removed from the interior, but one or two specimens are
preserved and may be seen in the tower of the new church, a few
paces distant.

11 Kil. Sundre i Aal (*Station, moderate). In the vicinity
is the handsome new church, in the gallery of which are preserved
some interesting relics of the old Church of Aal, including the pulpit
and two large and finely carved panels. Adjacent are two curious old
houses, known as the Thingstue and the Oretastue. The door of the
former is richly carved, while the whole interior of the building
is covered with a series of paintings, the colours of which are as
bright to-day as when the brush was first applied. The carved
pillars and veranda of the Gretastue are also very quaint.

The road then skirts the Strandefjord (1480 ft.), to the S. of
which rises the Sangerfjeld (3865 ft.), and passes (10 Kil.) Breie,
about 3 Kil. beyond which the road divides into two branches. The
branch to the S.W. leads to the Hardanger, while the branch to the
N.W. leads to the Sognefjord (p. 85).

1. Route to the Hardanger (45-50 Kil.). Near (3 Kil.; 17
Kil. from Sundre) Hammersbeen is the Raaen-Gaard (good accom-
modation), the property of Sander Raaen, who is said to have col-
lected no fewer than 6000 of the old Norse words to be found in
lvar Aasen's dictionary. From Hammersbaen a rough road ascends
the Ustadal to (10 Kil.) Jeito, where fair accommodation and a
guide may be obtained (guide to Krsekjahytten 6-8, to Hardanger
12-13 kr.). About 2 Kil. farther on is Tufte (2755 ft.), the highest
gaard in the valley.

The huge Hallingskarven is sometimes ascended from this point. The
E. peak (6330 ft.) is reached by ascending the course of the Eimeheia
to the Presteholtsel, while the W. peak (G435 ft.) is scaled from the W.
end of the Ustavand. View not picturesque, but very extensive, especially
from the latter, embracing the Hardanger Viddo (p. 63) and other mountains.

The route from Tufte to Maursset (two days) passes the Smet-
bak Stster, crosses the Ustedals-Elv by the 'Nybro' (the key of which
must be brought by the guide), ascends along the Usteberg to the
Berhelletjern, passses the deserted 'Farkeger' (p. 133) of Mons-
buheia, crosses the tongue of land between the Legreidsvand and the
0rterenvand, skirts the S. bank of the latter, and ascends the Svaa-
nuten to the Store Krakjavand. On the N. bank of this lake lies
the tourist-hut of Krsekjahytten (3900 ft; ca. 9 hrs. from Jeito),
where the night is spent. — The following route (6-7 hrs.) is
somewhat shorter. From Tufte we follow the Ustedals-Elv to the
Ustavand (3340 ft.), cross the lake by boat to 0rterdalen, walk to
the 0rterenvand, cross this lake also, and walk (i/2 hr.) to the hut.
On both routes we enjoy a continual view of the Hallingskarven.

On the second day (10 hrs.) we skirt the Kraekjavand, and cross
the river of Krakjastubben, near an old pitfall for catching reindeer.

to Lcerdalseren. UPPER HALLINGDAL. 12. Route. 87

We then descend the Halnebottner to the Olufbuvand, and cross
the Kjelda to the Fisketjern-Sater and the Smytte-Sceter, the first
in Hardanger. Beyond this point we cross the Leira, which de-
scends from the N., and reach the Indste-Sater, whence the route
to Maursaet (2445 ft.) and the gaard of Hel (p. 62) is unmistake-
able. The imposing Hardanger Jekul is conspicuous during the
whole journey. The best quarters are found at the adjacent Garen,
where those making this tour in the opposite direction engage their
guide. A visit to the hill above the Veringsfos (p. 62) may be
made from this point in less than an hour.

2. Route to the Sognefjord (about 85 Kil. : 3 days). This
is one of the finest mountain-expeditions in Norway (trying).
Beyond the above-mentioned fork we skirt the small and pictur-
esque Holsfjord and reach —

4 Kil. (17 Kil. from Sundre) Neraal or Nedreaal, situated be-
tween the Holsfjord and the Hevelfjord, near which is the old wood-
en Church of Hoi, part of which was built 450 years ago. The
pulpit is very peculiar. The church of Hoi should, if possible, be
visited on a Sunday, when many picturesque old-fashioned cos-
tumes are still worn by the peasantry. To the "W. towers the Hal-
lingskarven (p. 86). — A guide must be obtained either at Neraa
or Gudbrandsgaard (see below).

At the W. end of the Hevelfjord lies (5 Kil.) the Gaard Villand,
the ancient seat of the famous and turbulent family of that name
(the Villandsat), who had another residence at Tufte ('Villands-
tufte'), the place mentioned at p. 86. About 5 Kil. above "Villand
the road turns to the W. and leads past the SunddaUfjord(2bbQ ft.)
to the (5 Kil.) Gudbrandsgaard (2625 ft.), to which driving is
practicable (good quarters). The seeter-track leads hence to the
Garlid-Sater (2935 ft.), and along the 0vre Strandefjord (3120 ft.)
a lake 14 Kil. in length, on which are several sfeters, to the
farm of Svengaardsbotten, the highest permanently occupied place
in Norway. The Hallingskarven remains in sight the greater part
of the way.

The actual mountain-pass to the Sogn district, about 17 Kil.
in length, begins here. It is probable that the original in-
habitants of the Upper Hallingdal crossed the mountains thither
from the coast, just as Valders was originally peopled from Lacrdal.
These valleys therefore belonged to the ancient jurisdiction of the
Gulathingslag (p . 117). The path passes Ulevasbotten, Vierbotten, and
a third sseter with a herd of reindeer watched by Lapps from Reros.
[From this point a saster-path ascends through the valley of the
VesterdelatotheW.S.W., passing Gjeteryggen, and descends through
the Moldaadal to the cattle -station of Hailing skeie (a long day's
walk), whence we may go on to Ose and Ulvik.J Our path then
ascends rapidly to the Skard ('gap') between the Ulevasnut on the
E. and the Sundheller fjeld on the W., crosses the Bolhevde,

88 Route 13. LAKE SPIRILLEN. From Christiania

■where the direction is indicated by heaps of stones ('Varder'),
and leads to the Steinbergdal. The first night had better be spent
at the 0je-S»ter here (2935 ft. ; good quarters). Passing the Neset-
Sceter and 0strebe, we next descend the formidable pass of the
*Nasbegalder, partly by a perpendicular ladder , and partly by a
path borne by iron rods driven into the rock , to Gaard Nasbe.
The route then follows the Nasbedal (or a short-cut may be taken
by the dizzy BjelUUg) to Gaard S#nnerheim (second night). —
On the third day the path leads in about 5hrs. down theSenner-
heimsgalder and along a rapid stream to the Vasbygdvand, the boat
for crossing which is found at 0je or Stene, 1 Kil. before the lake
is reached. From Vasenden to Aurland, on the Sognefjord, is about
6 Kil. more. See p. 111.

13. From Christiania through the Valders to Lser-
dals»ren on the Sognefjord.

To the N.W. of Christiania lie the three important lakes Kr»-
deren (p. 82) , Bandsfjord , and Spirillen , Tunning from N. to S.
and nearly parallel with one another. The S. end of each of
these lakes is reached from Christiania by railway. The steamer
on Lake Kraderen then conveys us to the beginning of the Halling-
dal route (R. 12), while the great high-road through the Valders
passes near the N. ends of the other two. Of all the routes between
Christiania and Bergen (comp. p. 81) that through the Valders,
either via the Spirillen or the Randsfjord , is the finest in point
of scenery and the most comfortable in respect of accommodation.
The road by the Spirillen is perhaps preferable to that by the
Randsfjord, but between the lake and Frydenlund the station-mas-
ters have only a limited number of horses. The most frequented
route is that by the Randsfjord. By either of the Valders routes it
is possible to reach Laerdalseren in three days, but it is better to
allow four or five.

In the height of the travelling season an early start should always be
made in order that the station where the night is to be spent may be
reached as early as possible, with a view to secure rooms, or, if neces-
sary, to go on to the next station. Among the pedestrians who traverse
the favourite Valders route a considerable number of Norwegian ladies
will be observed.

a. Via Lake Spirillen to Frydenlund.

238 Kil. (149 Engl. M.). Railway from Christiania to (131 Kil.) Been,
express in 4>/2 hrs. (fares 7 kr., 4 kr. 40 0.), ordinary train in 6 hrs. (fares
6 kr. 45 0., 4 kr.). — Steamboat from Heen to (56 Kil.) Serum daily,
except Sun., in 5'/2 hrs. (fares 3 or 2 kr.); or, when the river is low, to Sees
( Granum) only, in 4'/2 hrs. ; returning from Stfrum or Nses on the follow-
ing morning. Through-tickets to S#rum are sold at Christiania. — Road
from Stfrum to Frydenlund 51 Kil. (from Granum 62; Skyds 17 g. per
kilometre) ; thence to Lairdalseren, 157 Kil.

Railway to Heen, see R. 2. The steamer usually starts about
an hour after the arrival of the train, giving time for luncheon

to Lcerdalseren. GRANUM. 13. Route. 89

or early dinner at Dahl's Inn, or (better) in the house of the
captain of the 'Bsegna' (order beforehand of railway-guard). There
is also a restaurant on board the steamer. It then ascends the
Bagna or Aadals-Elv, with its occasional lake-like expansions. The
navigable channel , indicated by wooden buoys (Beler) is some-
what intricate. On the right we soon pass Hallingby , a skyds-
station, with a pretty church (520 ft.). Higher up the river the
stream becomes very rapid, and the engines are required to do
their utmost. We next pass the pleasant-looking farm of Berg-
sund on the left. The course of the vessel is often obstructed by
floating timber (Temmer), through which it has to force a passage.
The rapid Kongstrem , which intersects an old moraine , is now
ascended, and we enter (18 Kil. from Heen) —

*Lake Spirillen (490 ft. ; probably derived from spira, 'to flow
rapidly'), a beautiful sheet of water, 15 Engl. M. in length, sur-
passing the Randsfjord in picturesqueness. The banks are well
cultivated at places, and at others mountainous and severe. To the
left, as we enter the lake, rises the Hegfjeld (3240 ft.). The prin-
cipal place on the W. bank is Viker or Aadalen, with a church,
about 8 Kil. to the W. of which is the Oyranfisen (3540 ft.). Oppo-
site, on the E. bank, lies Enger, a picturesque gaard and posting-
station. After passing the Romberg (1680 ft. ; left), the steamer
comes in sight of —

Uses, or Ncesmoen, at the head of the lake, with its church and
wild mountain-background.

To the W. of Nses is the entrance to the Hedal or valley of the
Urulen-Elv, through which a rough road ascends to (25 Kil.) Ildjamstad,
with an interesting timber - built church. According to tradition the
whole population of this valley died of the plague in 1349-50 ('■den store
Mandeded\ 'Dauden\ or '■den, sorte Ded'). When the church was after-
wards discovered by a hunter, he found a bear installed by the altar, in
proof of which a bear's skin is still shown. Similar traditions also exist
with regard to other places in Norway and Denmark. — From Ildjarn-
stad a road crosses the hill to Dokken (p. 90).

When the river above N«s is too low to be navigable , the
steamer does not go beyond this point, in which case the trav-
eller crosses the bridge to the(10 min.) skyds-station Granum. (good
quarters), where the night is spent. [The traveller may also drive
the same evening to Dokken or even to Storsveen.]

In continuing the journey from Naes by road, we first drive
through a somewhat monotonous forest. On the left rises the precipi-
tous Bjembratbjerg, and farther on, beyond the forest, are the farms
of Haraldshougen, which command a fine view of the valley. On
the right towers the imposing Valdershorn , and on the left the
Serumfjeld. We now cross the boundary between the districts
(Fogderier) of Buskerudsamt and Christiansamt. The mutilated
birches here have been stripped of their foliage to provide fodder
for the cattle. Stremrnen is prettily situated on the right.

11 Kil. (from Nses) Serum (skyds-station and good quarters), a

90 Route 13. STORSVEEN. From Christiania

prettily situated gaard with a steamboat-pier, 56 Kil. from Heen,
is the terminus of the steamboat-route. To the right lies Oaarden
Hougsrud, one of the largest farms in Valders. Farther on, to the
left, is the Tolleifsrudkirke, where our road is joined by that from
lldjarnstad in the J0Vre Hedal (p. 89). We now reach Dokken
i Sendre Aurdal. To the left diverges the old road, now a saeter-
track only, to the Hedal (see p. 89); and on the same side of the
road we afterwards pass the huge rocky precipice of MorkoUen.
From the left, farther on, descends the Muggedals-Elv. Scenery
picturesque and pleasing, particularly in the neighbourhood of the
Sendre, Midt, and Nordre-Garthus farms.

23 Kil. Storsveen (good quarters). To the left, farther on, rises
the Thronhusfjeld , and on the right the Fonhusfjeld. We then
cross the Heleraa. The road now follows the W. (right) bank,
and skirts the Svartvikfjeld, with its overhanging rocks and 'giant
cauldrons' (hollows formed by the action of water). The Soleiblomst
or Smerblomst (a kind of ranunculus) is frequently seen by the way-
side. We now reach the large basin of Bang i Sendre Aurdal, with
its numerous farms, its church, and parsonage, all on the opposite
bank of the river. A good road, passing Krcemmermocn (good quar-
ters at Christensen's), leads hence to Gravdal and (11 Kil.) Sveen
(see p. 92).

12 Kil. Fjeldhehn (good quarters), close beside the beautiful
Storebrufos, formed by the Baegna.

On the left, farther on, rises the pointed HullekoUe, at the
base of which is Reinlid, with its ancient Stavekirke (p. 22), the
road to which diverges to the left near the Baegna bridge (1 hr. ).
Our road crosses the bridge and turns to the left, entering the upper
region of the valley of the Baegna, while the road to the right leads
to Kraemmermoen, Bang, and Sveen. Fine mountain-scenery. The
road soon quits the valley and ascends the Jukamsklev in long
windings, whence we obtain a striking view of the rapid river
below. ■ — Beyond Henyen we obtain a noble *View of the snow-
niountains of Jotunheim bounding the valley of 0stre Slidre, the
Kalvaahegda, the Thorflnstinder, and the other mountains near
Lake Bygdin (p. 137). On the right we observe the road which
crosses the wooded Tonsaas to Gravdal (p. 90). The road then
descends to Gaarden Motet. Over the door of the gaard are the
quaint verses —

'Stat her mit Hum i Fred :Her seder jeg init Br#d,

For hveert Misundheds (fye, Her frygter jeg min Gud;

Thi den misundte Jord Velsignet er liver den

Den leer sig ogsaa pltfye.' Som her gaar in og ud.'

I May my house stand here in peace from every eye of envy ; (but I care
not) for the envied earth can equally well be ploughed. Here I eat my
bread and fear my God. Blessed be every one that passes in and out."]
The scenery beyond this point is less interesting. The road
runs chiefly through wood, and again ascends, soon uniting with

to Lcerdalseren. FRYDENLUND. 13. Route. 91

the road from Gjevik and (Mines , which descends from the Ton-
saas on the right.

16 Kil. Frydenlund (^Station; see p. 93) lies on the old road,
to the left of the new.

b. Via the Randsfjord to Odn^es and thence by carriage to

LuERDALSerREN.

446 Kil. (277 Engl. M.). Railway from Christiania to (142 Kil.) Rands-
fjord in 43/4 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 40, 4 kr. 60#.). Steamboat ('Harald Haar-
fager' and 'Oscar II.') from Randsfjord to (72 Kil.) Odnais once or twice daily-
corresponding with the;early train from Christiania) in 5-5'/jhrs.; return-
ing from Odnses in the morning, in time for the second train to Christiania
(fares 4 kr., 2kr. 80 0.). Road from Odnses to (232 Kil.) Lwrdalsgren, with
fast stations. The charge for a carriole and horse for one pers. is 17 0.
per Kil., stolkjgerre and horse for 2 pers. 25 0. per Kil., with a gratuity
of 15 0. per station. For fhe whole distance a carriole costs about 45, a
carriage for 2 pers. about 65 kr.

The so-called 'Diligence', which plys daily between Odnas and
Lferdals0ren, consists of one or more carriages , each drawn by two or
three horses, and with seats for 4-5 passengers. For times of departure
and arrival, night-quarters, etc., see the 'Communicationer' under III, B.
The fare for one person is 34 kr. Each passenger is allowed 40 lbs.
of luggage. Seats may be engaged a fortnight in advance by writing
to Gapt. Heinemann at Randsfjord or to Hotelier Lindstrem, at Lserdalstfren,
and at the same time prepaying the fare. In the height of the travelling
season the diligences are often full, and the small inns where they
stop for dinner or put up for the night are of course crowded. A party
of 2-4 persons can engage all the seats in one vehicle for the whole journey
(in which case the driver may be induced slightly to modify the usual
time-table). The advantages of the diligence, besides the trifling pecuniary
saving, are its expedition and the fact that meals and beds are kept in
readiness for the passengers. These, however, are more than counterbal-
anced by the loss of independence and diminution of comfort.

The pleasantest way of driving from Odnses to Lferdals0ren is to hire
a Peivate Caekiage. A carriage-and-pair with a hood ('Caleschvogn1) for
2-3 pers. costs 110-130 kr., with a gratuity of 4-6 kr. [Natives are said
to secure a carriage for this trip for 70 kr. or even less, so the traveller
may try his hand at a bargain.] Travellers pressed for time are cautioned
against engaging horses for the whole distance, in which case 60 Kil. only
can be accomplished each day. Speed and comfort are best combined by
hiring a carriage or a 'Trille' (a four-wheeled carriage without a hood)
and a driver for the whole journey, stipulating for a change of horses at
each station. The arrangements with the driver, who is generally apt to
be somewhat independent, should be made very carefully, especially as
to the hours of starting and arrival, the stations for halting for dinner,
and the change of horses.

As almost all the stations are fairly good, the traveller may divide
his journey in any way he pleases, but he should avoid those stations
where diligence-passengers spend the night. With skyds about 6-7 Kil.
can be accomplished per hr., or about 80 Kil. per day in summer, when
the days are long. The nights are usually spent at Fagerlund and Nystuen
or at Frydenlund and Skogstad. In midsummer it is possible to perform
the journey in 2 days, as the steamer arrives at 7 p.m. and twilight lasts
till 11 p.m. In this case the night is passed at Tomlevolden or Sveen. In
any case the private traveller should avoid the night-quarters of the
diligence (see above).

The Scenery is beautiful almost the whole way from Christiania to
L8erdals«rren , and at places exceedingly picturesque and striking. The
finest part of the route, which will even reward the pedestrian, is from
Frydenlund to Husum (140 Kil. or 87 Engl. 51.).

92 Route 13. RANDSFJORD. From Christiania

Railway from Christiania to (142 Kil.) Randsfjord, see R. 2.

Randsfjord Station (*Inn, D. 2 kr.) lies on the left bank of the
Rands-Elv, near its efflux from the Randsfjord. A bridge crosses the
broad river to Kokkerstuen or Hadelands Olasvcerk, in the district
of Hadeland.

The Randsfjord (steamboat-pier near the station), a lake 440 ft.
above the sea-level, 44 Engl. M. in length, and 3/i-1l/i M. only
in width, is the longest in S. Norway. It is bounded on the E. by
the well-cultivated and populous district of Hadeland, and on the
W. and N. by the districts of Valders and Land. The banks, rising
gradually to a height of 2000 ft., and well cultivated at places,
are somewhat monotonous and uninteresting, though well-wooded
at the top. The lake is generally so narrow as to resemble a broad
river. The steamer (see above ; good restaurant on board) performs
the trip to Odnces in 5-5Y2 hrs., stopping at ten stations on the
way. By the church of Fluberg, on the right, near the N. end of
the lake, are a number of fine weeping birches.

Odnses (*Hotel) , situated to the left of the road , at the N.
end of the Randsfjord, and 10 minutes' walk from the steamboat-
pier. To the N. of Odnses, on the high-road from Lake Mjesen
(diligence daily to Gjevik; see p. 117), lies —

3 Kil. Framnces (*Station ; carriages at the pier). Travellers
spending the night here or at Odnaes are recommended to leave
very early next morning in order to get the start of the usual morn-
ing stream of tourists, and they should also avoid spending the
night at the same places as the diligence. — Beyond Framnaes the
road ascends on the N. bank of the Etna-Elv, which falls into the
Randsfjord , and crosses the Dokka, an affluent descending from
the right. The scenery, though enlivened with thriving farm-
houses and beautiful birches, is somewhat tame here.

14 Kil. Tomlevolden (*Station , good and reasonable ; landlord
speaks English) is situated in the district of Nordre Land. The
station is a good specimen of a substantial Norwegian farm-house,
with its 'Stabbur' (storehouse, usually provided with a bell) and
other roomy outbuildings, almost entirely constructed of timber. —
About 7 Kil. from Tomlevolden the road crosses the Etna-Elv by
a bridge which affords a fine view of the Etnadal, and begins
to ascend the Tonsaas (2300 ft.), a wooded hill with a level plateau
on the summit (as is so frequently the case with the Norwegian
mountains), which separates the valleys of the Etna and the Baegna
(p. 89). A little beyond the bridge w'e cross the boundary between
Hadeland (p. 89) and Valders.

17 Kil. (pay for 18) Sveen (* Station) is beautifully situated
on the N.E. side of the Tonsaas. The road now ascends through
fine forest-scenery, affording several picturesque views of wooded
ravines, to Gravdal (1970 ft.; Tonsaasen's Sanatorium, a hydropa-
thic, hotel, and pension, 115-170 kr. per month, for passing tra-

to Lardalseren. FAGERN^ES. 13. Route. 93

vellers 41/2-6'/2 kr. per day; post and telegraph station, with tel-
ephone to Frydenlund and Fagernses), 3 Kil. atove Sveen, which
attracts many visitors in summer for the sake of the fine forest-
walks and beautiful views in the vicinity. A little to the "W. lies
the Hotel $ Pension Breidablik. [A road diverging here to the left
crosses part of the Tonsaas and leads to the church of Bang, on the
Beegna, p. 90.]

A little higher up we reach the wooded plateau on the summit
of the Tonsaas and pass two swampy lakes (a raft on one of which
serves as a ferry-boat). To the N. we obtain a fine view of Bruflat
in the Etnadal. The road now gradually descends, and where it
issues from the forest commands an imposing *View of the beauti-
ful and partially wooded valley of Valders, with the Strandefjord
running through it, and the snow-capped Jotunheim Mountains,
Galdebergstind, and Thorfinstinder in the background (see R. 17).
The road soon reaches the Bagnadal, where it is joined by the
Spirillen road (p. 88), and, a little farther on, —

18 Kil. (pay for 23) Frydenlund i Nordre Aurdal (*Station,
unpretending ; Hotel Sofielund), a large village beautifully situated
on the old road , to the left of, and 20 paces below the new. The
Foged, or chief administrative official, the Sorenskriver, or local
judge, and the Lensmand, or chief constable, reside here. In the
vicinity is the church of Aurdal.

Beyond Frydenlund the road, which is nearly level, runs high
above the Bsegna, partly through wood, and partly through cultiv-
ated land , and soon reaches the Aurdalsfjord, with its numerous
islands, one of the series of long lakes from which the Baegna
issues. On its S. (right) bank, 6 Kil. from Frydenlund, lies Pen-
sion Hove (70 kr. per month). Another fine view is obtained at
Onstad. The road then passes the District Prison. On the other
side of the broad valley is the Aabergsbygd , watered by the
Aabergs-Elv, which forms the Kvannefos. To the right, farther
on, is a fine waterfall, called Fosbraaten, and to the left is heard
the roar of the Vaslefos, a picturesque waterfall of the Bsegna,
which may be visited from Fagernses. "We now reach the beautiful
Strandefjord (1170 ft.), a narrow lake 13 Engl. M. in length,
and soon stop at —

13 Kil. Fagernses i Nordre Aurdal (*Hotel Fagernces, the land-
lord speaks English), situated on the N. bank of the lake, and at the
mouth of the N<es-Elv, descending from 0stre Slidre. A few paces
farther on is the *H6tel Fagerlund (1245 ft. ; R. 1 kr. 20, D. 1 kr.
80e.; postal and telephone station). This is a charming spot for a
stay of some duration, affording attractions to artists and sportsmen
alike, and the two names just mentioned ('fair promontory' and
'fair grove' respectively) are by no means inappropriate. The lake
and neighbouring streams afford good trout-fishing, and wild-
duck shooting is also obtainable. As, however, this is a favourite

94 Route 13. VESTRE SLIDRE. From Chriatiania

starting-place for an excursion to the Jotunheim Mts. (p. 138), the
route to which diverges here, the inns are often full in the height
of summer. Skyds may be obtained at both hotels.

The road crosses the Nas-Elv, -which forms some picturesque
cataracts about 100 yds. above the bridge, and follows the bank of
the Strandefjord, passing the churches of Svennces and Ulnas. To
the S., on the opposite side of the valley, is seen the Vasset-Elv,
which descends from the Syndin Lakes. To the W. opens a grand
*View of the snow-mountains on the Vangsmje<sen, from the Ved-
nisfjeld to the Mugnatind; more to the right are the Thorflnstinder,
Kalvaahtfgda, and Synshorn. Near Ulnaes-Kirke and at Gaarden
Fosseim, beyond it, on the opposite bank, the lake is crossed by
bridges, the part of it between them being called the Graneim-
fjord. Mountain-passes from Ulnars and Fosseim to the Halling-
dal, see p. 84.

The road now gradually ascends the hill to —

15 Kil. Fosheim (Hotel, new), near which is the Church of
Rem with its old Klockstepel (tower); in the vicinity are numerous
farms. About 10 Kil. beyond Fosheim we reach the beautifully
situated church of Vestre Slidre (1255 ft.), which commands a fine
view of the lake. Near this church a road diverges to the right,
crossing the Slidreaas to (19 Kil.) Rogne in 0stre Slidre (p. 136).

A little before reaching the top of the hill which this road ascends,
about 8-9 Kil. from the church, the traveller may diverge by a path to the
right, leading in 20 min. to the -Hvidhefd ('white head'), an eminence
which commands a striking view of the valleys of Vestre and J0fstre
Slidre , the Bitihorn , and the snow-mountains to the N. of Lake Bygdin
and the Vinstervand. A few hundred paces to the W. of this point rises
the "Kvalehegda, where an admirable survey of the whole of the Bygdin
range, the Vangsmjjzrsen, and the Hallingdal mountains to the S. is enjoyed.

A few hundred paces beyond the church of Vestre Slidre a
gate and private road on the right lead in 5 min. to 01ken
(*Hotel and Pension, B1/^ kr. per day), a farm-house con-
verted into an inn, beautifully situated on the hill about 300 ft.
above the lake. As this house is a favourite summer- resort and
attracts a considerable number of invalids and others, it is generally
puite full in the height of the season. The 'Distriktslsege', or
qhysician of the district, lives on the high-road near 01ken. Horses
and carriages may be had here. Einang's Hotel, at Volden, and
the Pension Husaker are also favourite resorts. The ascent of the
Hvidhefd and Kvalehegda , mentioned above , is recommended
(3 hrs. there and back).

The scenery continues to be very attractive. In traversing the
heights of Kvale we obtain a magnificent view of the Slidrefjord
(1195 ft.), as the upper part of the Strandefjord is often called,
with the mountains to the "W. — Farther on we pass the church
of Lomen. (Beyond this point the route is given on the Map,
P. 132.)

10 Kil. L«ken ^Station, charges rather high. English spoken),

to Lcerdalseren. GRINDAHEIM. 73. Route. 95

beautifully situated at the W. end of the Slidrefjord. The road
traverses wood the greater part of the way to the next station,
ascending the left bank of the Bsegna, -which, a short distance
beyond L»ken, forms a fine fall called the Lofos, and finally crosses
the Bsegna to the Vangsnas Hotel.

15Kil. 0ilo (1475 ft. ; *8tation, civil landlady) is a favourite
resort of artists. The situation of the place presents little attraction,
but it lies close to the *Vangsmj«sen (1535 ft.), a magnificent lake,
about 19 Kil. in length. The road follows the S. bank of the lake
to Oaarden Kvam , near which it is carried past the Kvamsklev
('ravine cliff') by means of a gallery hewn in the face of the Hu-
gakolle. In spring and autumn the safety of travellers is some-
times endangered here by the falling of masses of rock. At the
most hazardous point the road is protected by a roof. This is the
most striking point on the whole of the Valders route, and com-
mands a noble survey of the imposing lake and the mountains
enclosing it. On the right rises the Vednisfjeld, on the left the
Grindefjeld (see below), and opposite us the Skjoldfjeld. To the
N. is the Bresjafos. A little farther on, to the left of the road, is
Tune i Vang.

10 Kil. Grindaheim (*Vang Hotel, clean and reasonable ; the
landlord, Ole For, speaks English; Hotel Fagerli, new), beauti-
fully situated on the bank of the Vangsmjcsen. Just before reach-
ing the station we pass the Church of Vang, which replaces the
old Stavekirke ('timber church'), purchased by Frederick William
IV. of Prussia in 1844 for 320 kr. and removed to the Giant
Mts. in Silesia. A stone in front of the church bears the Runic
inscription: 'Oosa sunir risiu stin thissi aftir Gunar' ('the sons
of Gosa erected this stone to the memory of Gunar'). To the S.
rises the huge Grindefjeld (5605 ft.), which may be ascended
hence in 4 hrs. ■ — The road continues to skirt the lake, passing
the church of 0ye, near which is the beautiful Elvlunfos. Opposite
to us rises the imposing N. bank of the lake, on which tower
the conspicuous Skodshorn (similar phenomenon to that seen on
the Lysefjord, p. 46) and the Skyrifjeld.

From 0ye a mountain-path, passing to the S. of the Kvamenes (3900 ft.)
and the Borrenes (4870 ft.), which latter may be ascended from the route,
and skirting the Utrovtmd, leads to Nyshien on the Fillefjeld (aee p. 90)
in half-a-day.

The road now ascends from the Vangsmjesen to the small
Strandefjord (1605 ft.), which it skirts (not to be confounded with
the Strandefjord lower down, p. 93). At the end of it is Kasa.

From Kasa a path leads to the Jonskard-Sccters (4120 ft.) and thence
to the N.W., passing the Fagerscelnes (54T5 ft.) on the right, to the dtian-
gensje and Steinlodsje, and through the Gjetmmidsdal to Lake Tyin (Trinde-
hong, p. 139); in all a good day's walk (guide 4 kr.).

Beyond the Strandefjord the scenery assumes a niOTe mountain-
ous character, and a few farms are now seen on the sunny (N. )
side of the valley only.

96 Route 13. NYSTUEN. From Christiania

19 Kil. Skogstad (1885 ft. ; a fair station, the landlady speaks
English), a few min. to the right of the road, on the other side of
the stream, is a good starting-point for a visit to Jotunheim (R. 17).
From this point to the next station there is a steep ascent of nearly
1400 ft., and the road is unpleasantly hilly at places, especially
to persons descending. The scenery now loses its grand moun-
tainous character.

By making a slight digression from the high-road at Skogstad (about
3 hrs. ; guide necessary) a magnificent * View may be obtained. The
path passes the farms of Opdal, Elbjeirg, and Flaten on the S. slope of
the hill , and crosses the Horntind (ca. 4625 ft. ; panorama in the year-
book of the Norwegian Tourist Club for 1884), and descends to the S. to
the Opdalttele or to the Hagescet-Sceter in the valley of the Bjm-dela.
We cross this stream and proceed to the S. to the high-road to Nystuen.
The top of the hill commands a very striking survey of the Tyin Lake
and the mountains of the Koldedal and Melkedal, with several consider-
jiYiig fflfliCicrs

11 Kil. (pay for 17) Nystuen (3250 ft.; *Station, often crowded
in the height of summer, moderate charges), which resembles on a
small scale some of the large Alpine hospices, stands on the barren
Fillefjeld, above the Utrovand (3235 ft,). To the N. rises'the
Stugunes (see below), to the E. the Borrenes (4870 ft.). The
landscape presents the desolate and somewhat monotonous charac-
ter possessed by most of the higher Norwegian mountains. The
gaard, an unpretending group of buildings, is partly supported by
government as a tFjeldstue\ or mountain refuge (comp. p. 207),
and is chiefly important in winter, when travellers have fre-
quently been rescued from danger by the bravery of its inmates.
[Knud Nystuen, the father of the present landlord, was presented
with the Norwegian silver medal 'for Borgerdaad', i.e. for an act
of heroism.) As the most violent winds blow from W. to E., all
the buildings are erected with their narrower sides to the W.,
in order to present the smallest possible surface to the storms.
— Route to Jotunheim, see p. 138.

The "Stugunas (4825 ft.) may be ascended from Nystuen in 3 hrs.
(there and back) by following the brook to the W. of the station and then
going eastwards. Or the ascent may be made from Nystuen direct
(somewhat steep). In either case a guide is unnecessary. The summit
commands an uninterrupted survey of the Jotunheim range , from the
Horunger on the W. to the Sletmarkher on the E. — To the S. of Nystuen
rises the Suletind (5805 ft.), an imposing mountain-top, 8 Kil. distant.
On this mountain Lapps may sometimes be seen tending a herd of seve-
ral hundred reindeer. The excursion thither from Nystuen and back
takes 5-6 hrs., presenting no difficulty; or the ascent may be combined
with the journey to Marisluen by leaving the high-road at the Kirkestel,
a sseter a little beyond Nystuen , and following the old road (den gamle
Vei) to the S. Before Kirkesttfl the traveller requires to ford at about
knee-deep the rapid brook.

From Nystden to Aakdal (12-13 hrs. ; guide desirable). The bridle-
path, which is very rough and fatiguing at places, ascends, gradually at
first, leading between two small lakes, to the watershed of the Fillefjeld
(4'/2-5 hrs.), which commands a magnificent view of Jotunheim, the Sule-
tind, the Jostedalsbrse, and other mountains and glaciers. In descending
towards the N. we pass the Sletterust, a fisherman's hut to the W. of
the Torholmenvand, from which the Aardela issues. (From Sletterust to

to Lmrdalseren. MARISTUEN. 13. Route. 97

Breikvam and Eidsbugarden, see p. 102.) We then des end the sseter-track
along the Aardtfla to Moen, whence we row in 2'/2-3 hrs. to Aardal (see
pp. 101, 102).

The road from Nystuen to Maristuen reaches its highest point
(3294 ft.) a little beyond the former, and descends the monotonous
Smeddal , a mountain-basin without pretension to grandeur. The
old road led over the shoulder of the Suletind (p. 96) and then
descended steeply to Maristuen. Farther on we pass the Gren-
lidsater and the marble Stette, or column, which marks the boundary
between the 0stenfjeldske Norge and the Vestenfjeldske Norge,
and also between the Christiania Stift and that of Bergen. The
road then skirts the uninteresting Fillefjeldvand or Upper Smeddals-
vand and the Smeddalsvand (3085 ft.). Opposite to us rises the
Sadel-Fjeld. We then ascend to the Brusesater (3240 ft.), and
descend thence, partly through birch-plantations, with the foaming
Laera below us on the right, to —

17 Kil. (pay for 22 in the reverse direction) Maristuen (2635 ft. ;
*Hotel fy Sanatorium) , the second 'Fjeldstue' on the Fillefjeld,
originally founded by the clergy as a hospice in 1300. Not-
withstanding the height of its situation , the air will be found
perceptibly warmer than at Nystuen, as it not only lies lower,
but is influenced by the more genial climate of the W. coast. The
scenery, too, though still wild, is far richer and more pleasing than
at Nystuen. Between this point and Hag the road descends
1150 ft., and the valley soon becomes more attractive. At the
Bridge of Berlaug, 2 Kil. above H*g, the Valders and Hallingdal
routes unite (see p. 81). We soon stop at —

11 Kil. Hseg(1480ft.; Hotel, new), where the grandest scenery
of the *Lserdal, one of the most superb valleys in Norway, begins.
The road follows the valley the whole way to Lserdalseren. The
finest parts of this most picturesque route are the ravine between
the church of Borgund and Husum, and the rock and river scenery
between Husum and Gaard Saeltun. Between Hsg and Borgund.
the road is nearly level, traversing a basin which was once filled
with a lake. At the S. end of this basin, about 10 Kil. from Haeg,
rises the Vindhelle, a huge rocky barrier, through which the Laera
has forced a passage. The new road, completed in 1872, leads
through this ravine, at a considerable height above the wild and
foaming river. At various periods no fewer than four different
old roads , still traceable, once traversed the Vindhelle itself.

On the right, just before the road descends into the ravine, stand
the new Hotel Kirkevold (good cuisine) and the extremely inter-
esting *Church of Borgund, with its old Klockstepul or belfry,
partly restored in the 17th century. (The Skydsgut will procure the
key ; fee 40 ». for 1 or 2 pers. and 25 ». more for each additional
pers.) This extraordinary, fantastic-looking lStavehirke\ the best-
preserved church of the kind in Norway, is believed to date from
the 12th cent., but is now disused, service being held in the New

Baedekek's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit,. 7

98 Route 13. HUSUM. From Christiania

Church adjoining. It is now the property of the Antiquarian Society
of Christiania. Every part of it is curious and interesting: "the ex-
ternal passages, the numerous gables, the shingle-covered roofs and
walls, surmounted with dragons' heads, the lofty portal, the elab-
orate ornamentation consisting of two entwined snakes, and the
almost quite dark and windowless interior. On the W. door are
the Runic inscriptions —

Thorir raist runar thissar than Olau misso.
(Thorer wrote these lines on St. Olaf's fair.)
Thittai kirkia a kirkiuvelli.
(This church in the church-ground.)
The church is described in the ' Turistbref fran en Resa i Norge'
by Finn (Stockholm, 1876; pp. 93 et seg.), in 'Fahrten durch
Norwegen' by Hartung § Bulk (Stuttgart, 1877 ; pp. 232 et seg.),
and in several English works on Norway. Comp. the description of
the similar church of Hitterdal, given at p. 22.

The traveller is recommended to follow the old road from Bor-
gund Church to Husum, a walk of Y2 nr-> while his carriole takes
fully as long to descend the ravine by the circuitous new road ; but
before doing so, he should visit the entrance to the ravine , where
the wild and imposing scenery is enhanced by a fine waterfall
(Svartegelfos). The high-road descends thence in windings through
the picturesque ravine. Immediately above Husum is another
picturesque waterfall of the Laerdals-Elv (Holgruten). — The route
now enters the district contained in the Map at p. 100.

13Kil. Husum (1070 ft.; picturesque Hotel, well spoken of),
being the central point of the finest scenery of the valley, is a good
starting - point for excursions. Farther on lies another tolerably
level basin, once likewise the bed of a lake , with the 0igaard,
Kvama, Hougen, and other farms. Immediately beyond it the
road enters another grand ravine, which the old road avoided
by traversing the dangerous Galder ('cliffs', 'steep slopes') to the
right. The new road crosses the river and skirts the overhanging
rocks close to its bank, where the water has worn a number of more
or less perfect 'Jattegryder , or 'giant cauldrons', showing distinctly
how much higher the level of the torrent must once have been.
At one point, not far below Husum, the old bed of the stream has
even been utilised for the passage of the road, for which part of a
'giant cauldron' has also been hewn away, while the torrent now
thunders along 100 ft. below. On the N. side of the ravine are
Oaarden Galdeme and the -Store Soknefos, a strange spot for human
habitations. — As soon as the ravine expands we come in sight of
Oaarden Saltun, situated on the huge deposits (Shred) of a moun-
tain-torrent. The valley is still confined between lofty and precipi-
tous rocks. The road crosses the Laerdals-Elv and follows its right
bank; it then intersects the deposits of the Jutul-Elv and traverses
a broader part of the valley, from which the Opdal, closed by the

to the Sognefjord. L^ERDALS0REN. 13. Route. 99

snow-clad Aaken or Okken '(5685 ft. ; magnificent view ; guide in
Husum), diverges. Several extensive moraine-deposits are passed
on this paTt of the route.

15 Kil. Blaaflaten (Hotel, new) lies a little to the left of the
road, which is tolerably level for the rest of the way. The valley
is still enclosed by lofty mountains, but the scenery is now com-
paratively uninteresting. Beyond the Bofos , a waterfall on the
left, the road crosses the river and passes the church of Tenjum.
By the farms of JEri the valley suddenly trends towards the N. ,
and we now obtain another view of the Aaken, with its peculiar
ridge resembling that of the Gausta in Telemarken. The floor of
the valley is well cultivated at places and sprinkled with farms,
but the mountains are bare and rocky. The traces of numerous
landslips and avalanches (Skred) are observable here. The valley
finally turns towards the "W., and we now pass on the right, near
0ie, the picturesque Stenjumsfos, which descends in two falls from
the Veta-Aas and Hegan-Aas.

11 Kil. Laerdalstfren. — Hotels. ^Lindstr^m's Hotel and Sta-
tion, two houses, with 80 beds; E. from ii/j kr., D. 1 kr.-l kr. 60, S.
f/2 kr. ; 'LjekdalsiJkens Hotel, kept by Knud Forthun, R. 1 kr. 20 0.,
B. 1 kr. English spoken at both hotels. Accommodation may also be ob-
tained at the Villa Thingvolden, abont 31/2 Engl. M. from Lserdalsuren.

Lserdals0ren is a 'fast' skyds-station both for horses and boats. — Tele-
graph Station. — English Church Service at Lindstr#m's Hotel in summer.

Lardalseren , generally shortened to Larded , the ' alluvial
plain of the Laerdal river', lies on the small Lmrdalsfjord and on
the broad, level, and somewhat marshy plain at the mouth of
the Lara, shut in by rocky and barren mountains. The view is
very limited. To the E., at the head of the Oftedal , rises the
Haugnaase (5250 ft.), and to the W. is the Freibottenfjeld. The
village, which boasts of a handsome new timber-built church, and
a few tolerable shops, a physician, and a chemist, is a poor place
with 800 inhab., deriving its sole importance from the fact that
it forms the principal avenue of approach on the land side to the
Sognefjord (see pp. 100, 112). The steamboat pier is nearly 2 Kil.
from the station (carriole 40-50 0. for each person, with luggage
60 0.). A pleasant walk may be taken along the bank of the fjord to
(t/^hr.) the winter-pier, used when the fjord is frozen, and. on to
Haugene in the Eierdal.

14. The Sognefjord.

Comp. the Maps p. 100 (the inner Sognefjord) and p. 108 (the middle
Sognefjord), which join at the dotted line on the right (eastern) side of the

latter.
Steamboats. Although small boats are procurable at all the stations
(fare 21, 31, 41 (I. per Kil. for 2, 3, or 4 rowers), travellers are cautioned
against engaging them for long distances, as their speed is usually slow,
and the stations are very far apart. In making use of the steamers a
careful consultation of Gorges Communicationer^ (under the heading 'Nordre
Bergenhus Amts Dampskibe' No. 252) is absolutely necessary, as several

100 Route Id. SOGNEFJORD.

interesting points in the ramifications of the fjord are only called at two oi1
three times a week. The steamers are all well fitted up and have good res-
taurants on board (which provide wine and heer, but no spirituous liquors),
but the sleeping accommodation is limited. If a night or part of a night
has to be spent on board, the traveller should lose no time in securing
a sofa or berth. The cabin fare is 40, the steerage 25, and the deck
15 0. per sea -mile (4 Engl. M.). The usual charge for a substantial
breakfast with coffee is 172-2, for dinner 2, and for supper 1-1 '/j kr.
(fee discretionary, according to length of voyage). Comp. Introd. m.

The *Sognefjord (from the old word 'Sogne\ signifying a nar-
row arm of the sea), the longest of all the Norwegian fjords, being
180 Kil. (112 Engl. M.) long from Sognefest to Skjolden, and
averaging 6 Kil. (4 Engl. M.) in width , forms one of the most
important highways of traffic in Western Norway, and also one of
the most convenient avenues to some of the grandest and wildest
scenery in the country. At places it is nearly 4000 ft. deep. Like
all the Norwegian fjords , it is unattractive at its entrance , where
the rocks have been worn away, partly by the action of the waves,
and partly by that of the enormous glaciers with which the whole
country was once covered. The scenery gradually improves as the
traveller proceeds from "W- to E., until the fjord at length ter-
minates in a number of long and narrow arms bounded by lofty
mountains rising at places to a height of 5000 ft., from which
numerous waterfalls precipitate themselves into the depths be-
low. At the upper extremities of the N. ramifications of the
fjord lie huge glaciers descending from the snow - mountains,
including the Jostedalsbrce ('Brae' signifying glacier), probably the
largest glacier in Europe (350 sq. M.). In other parts of the fjord
again the banks present a smiling and genial character, being
fringed with luxuriant orchards and waving corn-fields, and studded
with pleasant-looking dwellings. At some points indeed (as at
Balholm , Sogndal , Amble, and Skjolden) the scenery of the fjord
is not unworthy of comparison with that of the Lake of Lucerne,
or even with that of the lakes of N. Italy. In the majestic grandeur
of its mountains and glaciers, the Sognefjord far surpasses the
Hardanger, but its general character is severe and at places desolate
and monotonous, while the waterfalls, as well as the softer scenery,
of its southern rival unquestionably carry off the palm. — Up to
the point where the great ramifications of the Sognefjord begin,
the climate is the same as that of the W. coast , being rainy and
mild in winter and usually damp and cool in summer ; but the
seasons in its long and narrow arms are more similar to those pre-
valent in inland European countries. In winter a considerable
part of these arms is usually frozen over , and although the ice is
detached from the shore at its margins , being raised a couple of
feet or more twice daily by the tide , it serves as a busy highway
for sledge traffic. On these occasions the steamers ply to the mar-
gin of the ice.

The Inhabitants (Sogninger) of the banks of the fjord which

eAarflai

StortwugFj.

■6}Bef>ws- f , i
TuigcataA *+ V &£*

^ J1 Siilmm if

locOwuiWam. i/ut.Ofertial \ <•.

Qmbaridniis Vndvthalfc' ^-v— rosak

S> ■Jim»l.

^- B(innolnacust»

l: 500.000

AARDAL. 14. Route. 101

with the adjoining country, are all embraced in the name of 'Sogri,
appear to belong to two distinct races , those in the W. parts pos-
sessing the placid Norwegian character, while those of the E. parts
are remarkable for their vivacity, which shows itself in their hur-
ried and almost incoherent mode of speaking. All , however , will
be found uniformly obliging and hospitable to travellers.

a. Aardalsfjord, Vettisfos.

Steamboat from Lcerdalseren to Aardal twice weekly in 2 hrs. (corap.
the 'Communicationer', No. 252, A 3). — To Marifjseren, see pp. 103, 104.

Lcerdalseren, see p. 99. The scenery of the Lserdalsfjord is
comparatively uninteresting. To the left rises the Qlipsfjeld, on
the W. side of which opens the Vindedal. To the right is the
Vetanaase , with the promontory of Fodnce3 , round which the
steamer steers. Farther on a fine view is obtained to the left of
the Lysterfjord (p. 103), with the Haugmselen; in the background
the Jostedalsbrae (p. 105). To the S.W. towers the Blejan (p. 109).

The steamer now enters the Aardalsfjord, the scenery of
which is also somewhat monotonous at first. On the barren and
rocky N. bank rises first the Bodlenakken (3075 ft.) and then the
Brandhovd, between which lie the Ytre and Indre Oferdal. On the
wooded S. bank is the station of Nadviken or Vikedal. The Sceheims-
dal now opens to the N., and a little later the imposing amphithe-
atre of mountains around —

Aardal or Aardalstangen {^Jens Klingenberg's Inn, to the right
of the bridge), a small village situated upon an old coast-line,
now considerably elevated above the fjord. Opposite rises the snow-
clad Slettefjeld or Middagshaugen (4435 ft.). Aardal is the starting-
point for a visit to the beautiful Vettisfos (Y2-I day ; p. 102), for
a mountain-walk to Nystuen (I-IV2 day; p. 96), and for a *Tour
round the Horunger to Skjolden (4 days ; comp. pp. 103, 158). Guide
to Vetti unnecessary, but for the longer tours indispensable ; Jens
Klingenberg jun. and Jem Ornas may be recommended (4 kr.
per day). Comp. p. 158. For the longer tours provisions must
be taken from Aardal, as Vetti is the only place where tolerable
food can be procured.

Passing the pretty church of Aardal and ascending along the
AardaU-ELv, on the right bank of which lies the farm of Hereid, we
reach in ^hr. the Aardalsvand (13 ft. above the sea), a beautiful
lake, 19 Kil. (12 Engl. M.) long, surrounded by precipitous cliffs
and profound ravines, in which bears are still found. A boat on the
lake carries us in II/2 hr. (1 pers. 80, 2 pers. 1 kr. 32, 3 pers.
1 kr. 62 0.) to (9 Kil.) Farnas, at the N.E. end. To the right we
see the Stegafjeld, with the precipitous Opstegene on its E. side ;
beyond lies the Fosdal with the Eldegaard, to which a zigzag path
ascends past a waterfall. Farther on, high up to the right, is the
Lest-Sater, beyond which is the Midnashamer, with the Eldeholten.

102 Route 14. VETTISFOS. Sognefjord,.

To the left rises the huge and precipitous Bottnjuvkamben j to the
right the 'Plads' or clearing of Ojeithus and the Raudnas. Then,
also to the left , the Nondal, with several farms and the Nondals-
fos. On rounding the Raudnaes we see Farnas, whence a carriage-
road ascends the Utladal to Gjelle (bargaining advisable in hiring
horse or carriage).

Fkom Fabn^s to Foktun (8-10 lirs. ; guide necessary, 4 kr.). From
Farnses a bridle-path ascends to the N.W. through the Fardal or Lange-
dal , passing the Aare and Stokke saeters , to the Muradn-S<eter, whence
a path leads through the Lovardalsskard (4700 ft.J, a 'gap' or depression
at the foot of the Austabot-Tinder and Solei-Tinder, into the Berdal and
to Gaarden Fuglesleg (2495 ft.), which lies almost perpendicularly above
the valley of Fortun (p. 159). The descent to Fortun is excessively steep,
whence probably is derived the name of Fuglesteg, or 'bird-path'.

The road to Gjelle ascends the right (W.) bank of the Vtla.
In i/4 hr. we see the mouth of the Aardela, beyond which is the
Gaard Moen, where travellers bound for Nystuen (p. 96) or Eids-
bugarden (see below) usually spend the night (poor fare and
accommodation).

Fkom Moen to Eidsbugakden, 10 hrs., an unattractive route (a horse
should be taken as far as Breikvam). A sseter-track ascends past the
numerous falls of the Aardela to the (2'/2-3 hrs.) fisherman's hut of
Sletterust, where the route to Nystuen mentioned at p. 96 turns to the
S., while another path leads to the N. of the Torholmenvand, at the S.
base of the Mansberg, to (2-2'/2 hrs.) the 'FselBeger1 of Breikvam on Lake
Tyin. If a boat can be obtained we cross to Tvindehoug and reach the
route to Eidsbugarden mentioned at p. 151 ; if not we must walk round
the N. end of the lake, fording the Koldedela.

After 1 hr. the road crosses a bridge to Ojelle, on the left bank
of the Utla, where it ends. To the right is the large *Ojellefos.
Farther on a bridle-track ascends the Vettisgjel, a narrow ravine
('gjel') 4-5 Kil. in length, bounded by cliffs of immense height,
and endangered in winter and rainy weather by avalanches and
landslips. The path first descends to the left, crosses the river,
and reaches Oaarden Skaaren, just beyond which there is another
bridge ('Johannebro 1880'). Farther on the path and the turbulent
Utla thread their way through a chaos of rocky debris. After
1/2 hr. we reach the *Afdalsfos (530 ft.), above which is a bridge.
We do not cross but keep on the E. (left) bank of the stream. The
scenery here is very imposing. The ravine ends 3/4 hr. farther on
at the Heljabakfos, which is formed by the Utla as it bursts forth
from a wall of rock. The steep path now ascends to the Helja-
bakken, from which we have a view of the 'Plads' below, the
Gaard Vetti above, and also of three small waterfalls to the left.
In !/a hr.more we reach —

Gaard Vetti (1090 ft.; capital accommodation at Anfind Vetti's;
horses obtainable here for returning to Farnaes). A rough path
(guide unnecessary) leads hence, at first descending and then
rapidly ascending, to (}/2 hr.) the *Vettisfos, or Vettismorkafos,
a fall of the Morkadela, about 900 ft. in height, the finest fall
in the Sogne district. An eminence on the right bank commands

Sognefjord. LYSTERFJORD. 14. Route. 103

an admirable view of the fall, but a closer approach may be made
by crossing a small bridge to the left bank.

Those who have 3-4 hrs. more to spare may ascend the path leading
to the (1 hr.) Vettismorka-Sceter, in order to enjoy the fine view of the
fall from above. Just beyond the first cattle-fence we proceed to the left
through underwood to the Morkadpla and cross it by a plank-bridge.
About 100 paces farther on, to the left, is a dead tree, overhanging the
abyss and affording handhold to those peering into its depths.

The ascent of the Store Skagast/alstind (7875 ft.), formerly considered
like that of the Matterhorn almost impossible, and still regarded as
difficult, was first accomplished by Mr. Slingsby in 1876. The best start-
ing-point is Vormelid or Skagastel, whence we proceed to the Midt Mar-
adalsskar, and thence to the top, either direct or via the Slingsbybrw and
the Mohnskar. In the latter case we end the ascent by clambering for
nearly 500 ft. over rocks. The best guides are Thorgeir Sulheim and
Halvar Halvarsen Eide of Skjolden, Nils Vetti of Vetti, and P. J. Melheim
of Aardal. — The Mellemste Skagastelstind, first ascended by Hr. Carl Hall
in 1884, is another formidable rocky peak.

The 'Circular Tour round the Horunger (with guide, see above
and p. 159; a horse must be obtained at, Farnses or Gjelle) is best arranged
as follows. 1st Day: To Guard Vetti, with a visit to the Vettisfos (see
p. 102). 2nd Day : Via. the Vettismorka-Sceter and the Fleskedals-Sceters
(p. 154) to the Skogadalsbeen (p. 156) in 7-8 hrs., or in 3/t hr. more to the
highest Guridals-Swter (p. 156). 3rd Day : Across the Keiseren Pass (p. 156)
to the Skagastels-Smlers (pp. 158, 161), and ascent of the Dyrhaugstind
(p. 160). 4th Day: Via Fortun, to Skjolden, l'/2-2 hrs. — Several moun-
tain-ascents may be combined with this magnificent tour, such as the
Store Skagastelstind (see above) and the Stelsnaasitind (p. 155) from Gaard
Vetti; the Styggedalstind (p. 156) from Skogadalsb#en ; the Fanaraak
(p. 153) and the Styggedaltbotn (p. 166) from the Helgedals-Sseter. — Com-
fortable accommodation is obtained at Vetti alone; but the sseters of the
Fleskedal, Skagast0l, and Riingadn are at least clean. A supply of pro-
visions must be brought from Aardal.

b. Lysterfjord. Jostedal.

Steamboat twice weekly (comp. the Communicaiioner, No. 252, A 3).

The *Lysterfjord, the N.E. and longest (25 Engl. M.J ramifi-
cation of the Sognefjord, presents a series of wild mountain land-
scapes, diversified by beautiful scenery of a softer type. Owing
to the numerous glacier - streams flowing into it, the water near
the surface is fresh and of a milky appearance ; below, however, it
is salt. On the W. side rises the precipitous Haugmalen (4135 ft.),
which may be ascended nearly the whole way on horseback. In
2'/4 hrs. after leaving Aardal the steamer reaches —

Solvorn (*Hotel, R. 1 kr., S. 1 kr. 20 0.), a skyds-station,
prettily situated on a bay in the W. bank of the fjord. In the
background rise the snow-clad mountains encircling the Veite-
strandsvand.

A hilly road leads from Solvorn to the (2 Kil.) Hafslovand (455 ft.),
the bank of which is skirted by the road from Marifjseren to Sogndal
mentioned below. — About 2 Kil. to the N. of the point where, the
two roads meet lies Hill es tad (poor station ; 4 Kil. from Solvorn, pay for
5), where guides and horses are obtained for an ascent of the Molden.

From Hillestad the road leads via Hafslo, with a church and parson-
age, to (8 Kil.) the S. end of the Veitestrandsvand (640 ft.), a lake 17 Kil.
in length. We then row to the other end of the lake, where accommo-
dation for the night can, if necessary, be obtained at the farm of Ilegge-

104 Route 14. MARIFJ^EREN. Sognefjord.

strand. Thence on foot across the snow-fields of the S. Jostedalsbrse
(p. 105) and through the Veiteslrandsskard to the Suphelle- Safer and on
to Fjwrland (p. 113), a fatiguing tour of a whole day (guide and pro-
visions necessary).

On the promontory opposite Solvorn, in a charming situation,
lies Urnces, with its 'giant tumuli' (Kampehouge) and the most
ancient 'Stavekirke' in Norway, dating possibly from the 11th cent,
(see p. 22). To the left towers the huge Molden (3645 ft.). On
the right, about !/2 nr> after leaving Solvorn, we pass the Gaard Ytre
Kroken, famed for its orchards. A view is now obtained of the
Hestebrce, a part of the Jostedalsbwe to the N.W., to the right of
which is the Leirmohovd and more to the N. the hills of the
Krondal (see below). In ^ nr- more the steamer touches at —

Marifjseren (* Jacob Thervi's Inn) , prettily situated on the
Gaupnefjord, a branch of the Lysterfjord, and the best starting-
point for a visit to the Jostedal (ltfe-l days ; see p. 105). A beau-
tiful walk may be taken hence up the hill to the N.W. to the old
church of Joranger , which commands a magnificent view of the
fjord and the Feigumsfos, a waterfall 650 ft. high on the E. bank.
To the S. of Marifjaeren is Qaarden Hundshammer, whence part
of the Jostedalsbrse is visible towards the N. At the N.W. ex-
tremity of the Gaupnefjord lies Reneid (p. 106), 3 Kil. distant,

reached by small boat in 1/2 nr- (or by road).

The Road from Marifjaeren to Sogndal (22 Kil., pay for 33) affords
a beautiful walk (6-7 hrs.) or drive (4-5 hrs.). The stations are all 'fast'.
The hilly road passes the base of the Molden (see above), which is very
steep and not easily ascended on this side, and follows the course of
the Bygde-Elv. On the right, above us, lies Joranger. We pass a number
of farms and cottages, chiefly on the sunny side (Solside) of the valley,
and plantations of birches and alders. A little to the right lies Fet, with
its old church. At the highest point of the road (about 1200 ft.) we
obtain a view of the distant snow-mountains to the S. of the Sognefjord,
including the Fresviksbrse and the Rambrse. During the somewhat
steep descent we obtain a magnificent 'View of the scattered village of
Hafslo with the Hafslovand and the mountains of the Sognefjord, and
at our feet lies —

8 Kil. (pay for 14) Hillestad, see above.

Beyond Hillestad the road skirts the E. bank of the Hafslovand and
traverses a pine-wood, through which glimpses are obtained of the lake
and the Jostedalsbrse to the N. The Solvorn road diverges here to the
left. — Beyond Gaarden Oklevigr the road attains its highest point, and
then descends the numerous zigzags of " Gildreskreden (Skreien), where
great caution is necessary in driving. In descending we obtain a
magnificent view of the fjord. On our right rushes the Orrei-Elv,
descending from the Veitestrand and Hafslo lakes, and forming the
Helvetesfos and Futesprang. Below us lies Nagleren. The road now skirts
the Barsnces/jord. The glacier-worn rocks, with large isolated boulders
resting on them at places, should be observed here. The vegetation gradu-
ally becomes richer, and oaks, elms, and ashes begin to appear. Passing
through the Berhul, a curious aperture in the rock, the road ascends to
the heights of Kvam, which afford another splendid view. At Gaarden
Loftesnas, on the opposite bank, the fjord contracts to a narrow channel,
and the Sogndalsfjord now begins. We then reach Hofslund (good inn),
the station for the adjacent Sogndal (p. 113), 14 Kil. (pay for 19) from
Hillestad.

The upper part of the Lysterfjord is grand and picturesque,

Sognefjord. SKJOLDEN. 14. Route. 105

somewhat resembling the Lake of Lucerne. The steamer passes
Nces, near the mouth of the Gaupnefjord, on the left, and the im-
posing Feigumsfos, a fine waterfall of two leaps, 2130 ft. in height,
on the right, and next stops (1 hr.) at D«sen (*Inn), charmingly
situated on the W. bank, near the old stone church of Dale (fine
portal).

From D0sen the traveller may ascend the Duledal by a horse-track,
passing several farms and sseters, to Guard Kilen , beyond which there is
a steep climb over the Vidde of Slorhougen (2600 ft.) to the Vigdals-
Sceter. The path then descends to the W. through the Vigdal, passing
the Buskrednaase on the right, to the fjeld-gaards of 0vre and Nedre
Vigdal. From the latter the path leads across a hill and then descends
abruptly to the Ormbergsstel. We then cross the Jostedals-Elv to My-
klemyr (p. 107) or proceed towards the N. to Gaard Ormberg and over the
bridge (p. 107) to the road leading to the church of Jostedal (p. 107), 27
Kil. from D#sen (a fatiguing walk of 9-10 hrs. ; guide necessary).

From Desen the steamer proceeds in another hour to Skjolden
(*Thorgeir Sulheim's Inn, at the gaard of Eide, on the S. bank of
the Fortun-Elv), prettily situated at the head of the Lysterfjord.
To the E. rises the snow-clad Fanaraak; in the foreground, to the
right, is Eide ; to the left is Bolstad. Sulheim and Halvar H. Eide
are good guides.

Skjolden lies at the entrance of the sombre Markereidsdal, which is
about 12 Engl. M. in length and contains the pleasant farms of Skole, Bolstad,
Flohaug, Moen, and Merkereid. Beyond these are several sseters : the Kni-
vebakke-Sceter to the left, the Dul-Sceter and the Dalen-Sceter to the right,
and then the Fosse-Sceter and the Rausdals-Sceler. On both sides lofty
fjelds and glaciers rise abruptly from the valley (comp. the Map, p. 100).
From the Rausdals-Sseter we may proceed to the W. over the Fjeld and
through the Martedal and Fagerdal to the Qaard Faaberg (p. 108) in the
Jostedal (one day).

From Skjolden to the Fortundal, the Horunger , and to Redsheim,
see pp. 159, 158-155.

Excursion to thb Jostbdal.

This excursion takes l'/2-2 days. On arriving at Marifjmren (p. 104)
the traveller should immediately order a carriage, and take dinner while
it is being got ready. The drive to Sperle or Jostedal, where the night
is spent, takes 5-6 hrs., while the walker can complete the distance
in almost as short a time. On the following morning we walk or drive
to Kroken (2 hrs.) and the Mgardsbra, returning to Marifjseren the same
afternoon. — As the station of Alsmo (p. 107) is 'slow', it is usual to hire
the stolkjserre for the whole tour (to Kroken or Faaberg and back 8 kr.).
Riding is not recommended (horse 7 kr.)

Those who wish to pass from the upper Jostedal to the Nordfjord
proceed from Kroken, after visiting the Nigardsbrse, to (3/j hr.) the Gaard
Faaberg, where they dine and obtain a guide for the glacier. The night
is spent in Faabergstel, and Gredung i Slryn (p. 190) is reached next day.
As the guides in summer prefer to cross the Jostedalsbrse at night, it is
desirable to reach Faabergstel early in the afternoon, so as to have time
for several hours' sleep. Within the last few years the Jostedalsbrse has
several times been crossed in the opposite direction via the Bergsseters
(p. 107; comp. p. 192).

The * Jostedal, like almost all the Norwegian valleys, is a rocky
rift or ravine in the midst of a vast plateau of snow and ice. The
~W. part of this plateau consists of the Jostedalsbrce (p. 100),

106 Route 14. JOSTEDAL. Sognefjord.

with its ramifications the Hestebrce , Tvardalsbra , Vasdalsbrce,
and ReikedalsbrcB, -while the E. half is formed by the Spertegbra.
and numerous snow-clad 'Naeser'. The sides of the plateau enclos-
ing the narrow Jostedal, which is watered by the Jostedals-Elv, are
usually almost perpendicular. The sides of the valley, sometimes
attaining a height of 3000 ft., are generally wooded, and are often
broken up by transverse rifts and crevices, from which mountain-
streams and waterfalls descend into the valley ; at intervals they
recede, forming wider basin-like openings in the valley, which are
accompanied by barriers of rock running athwart the stream and
indicating the different zones of the valley. The glaciers (' Jekler')
and snow-fields ('Fonner') are, however, scarcely visible, till we
reach the head of the valley, where parts of the Jostedalsbrse come
into view. The Nigardsbra in particular projects far into the
valley near Kroken, and having been long known and frequently
explored by Forbes, De Seue, Durocher, Bohr, Naumann, and others,
has made the Jostedal the most celebrated of the glacier-valleys
of Norway. — The whole valley forms a single parish with a pop-
ulation of about 900 souls. Grain is cultivated as far as the
Nigardsbne. The heat in midsummer is excessive, and in winter
the thermometer sometimes falls 30° below zero (Fahr.).

Marifjaren, see p. 104. The road skirts the base of the pre-
cipitous mountains on the W. bank of the Oaupnefjord.

3 Kil. Reneid (* Jacob Moland's Inn), which we may also reach
by small boat (1/2 hr0- Carriages may generally be procured here.
The delta which the Jostedals-Elv here forms as it falls into the
fjord contains several farms and the church of Oaupne. Above
it rises the Raubergsholten (2675 ft.).

The road ascends the Jostedal on the right bank of the river,
which is turbulent and muddy. Until late in the afternoon the
road is quite exposed to the sun. The bottom and slopes of the
valley are here carefully cultivated. The road skirts an old moraine
and crosses the Kvairne-Elv. At this point begins a series of huge
and shapeless rocks , which flank the road all the way to Leirmo.
In front of us rises the Leirmohovd. After crossing the Fondela,
the road turns to the right to the gorge of Hausadn ('Hausane', the
houses), whence a view is obtained of the twin peaks of the Asbjern-
naase (5270 ft.) to the W. From the rocky wall on the right the Ryfos
falls into the valley. A little farther on we reach the first of the
curious basin-like expansions of the Jostedal (see above), which
takes its name from the hamlet of Leirmo , on the hill to the left.
(From Leirmo we may visit the grand * Tunsbergdalsbrce , 8 Engl.
M. in length.) Our route crosses the foaming Tunsbergdals-Elv near
a picturesque saw- mill. To the right towers the precipitous Kol-
naase. The river now expands and a little farther up fills the
whole floor of the valley.

14 Kil. Alsmo, situated upon an old moraine ('mo'). Soon

Sognefjord. JOSTEDAL. 14. Route. 107

after the road ascends through the rocky and wooded Haugaasgjel,
or gorge of the Haugaasen, for about 300 yds. Almost perpen-
dicularly below us, to the right, are the Jostedals-Elv and the
Vigdela, which here form several fine falls. To the left a glimpse
is obtained of part of the Jostedalsbrse. A little farther on we
obtain a fine *View of the deep and imposing basin of Myklemyr,
formerly occupied by a lake ; to the right is the Ojel, used in win-
ter by sledges, while to the left is the Hompedalskulen (4820 ft. J,
above which lies the Hompedals-Sceter. Directly opposite to us,
to the right, is the Vangsen (see below), the loftiest mountain in
the Jostedal. We now descend rapidly into the basin, which has
been frequently devastated by the river, passing the farms of
Myten, Teigen, and 0en. Then —

5 Kil. Myklemyr (accommodation at Anders1'). The route now
traverses a narrower part of the valley, passing the large farm of
Ormberg on the right, and then enters another small basin, with
the farms of Fossen and Dalen. A narrow *Gorge, with a bridge
leading to Ormberg (see p. 105), connects this basin with the next,
which contains the Sperleeer on the left, and the farm of Aasen on
the right. The road then crosses a rocky barrier, from the top of
which a good view is obtained of the Liaxlen, the JostedalsbrcB, and
the basin of Sperle. Passing a school on the right we now reach
Gaarden Sperle (quarters at the Lensmand's, good), above which,
to the left, is the waterfall of the same name, descending from the
Listelsbra. Beyond Sperle we ascend a steep incline, at the top
of which we pass through wood and cross the Nedre Lid, where the
'Gjel', or ravine, of that name opens to the right. In about 8/4 hr.
we reach another beautiful basin, in which lies the —

Jostedals-Kirke (660 ft.). Good accommodation is obtained if
required at the house of the clergyman ('Sogneprest'), who, however,
refuses all remuneration. Travellers who accept his hospitality
usually show their appreciation of it by sending him a memento
of their visit on reaching home.

Beyond the church we pass, on the left, the Bakkefos, which
descends from the Strondafjeld, and near it the 0vre Gaard. An-
other wide expansion is then reached, into which the Gjeitsdela
precipitates itself in three beautiful falls. To the S.E. rises the
imposing Vangsen (5710 ft.), with a large glacier on its N.E.
slope, which may be visited from Jostedal (4 hrs.). Between the
valleys of Vanddal and Ojeitsdal, which here open to the right, is
the pyramidal peak of the Myrhorn, rising from the great Sperteg-
bra behind. At the Gaard Gjerdet (1 hr. from the church ; milk),
we cross the stream issuing from the Krondal , which is flanked
on the right by the Haugenaase (4260 ft.) and on the left by the
Vetlenibben and Grenneskredbra.

A path ascends hence through the Krondal and then to the left
through the Reikedal , crossing the height at the head of the latter , to

108 Route 14. JOSTEDALSBR.E. Sognefjord.

the Tunsbergdalibrai, whence we may descend to the Tunsbergdal and via
Leirmo to the road in the Jostedal (see p. 105).

From the Krondal to Loen on the Nordfjord (p. 191)) ca- 10 hrs.
This fine but trying route across the Jostedalsbree was accomplished by a
party of Norwegian soldiers in 1815, but after that not till 1880, when Mr.
Trotter repeated the feat with Ole R0jshjem (p. 146). Since 1880 it has
been accomplished several times. Guide, Johannes Snetum, in the Krondal
(12-14 kr. ; porter 10 kr.) — The previous night should be spent in the
farm of Kronen, and an early start made. We ascend the Tvcerbra; or
Bjernestegbrce, which descends from the N., to the (3 hrs.) Haugmeset,
between the Tvserbra; and the Nigardsbrse (see below), where stands the
last 'Varde' in the Jostedal, near a drinking-spring. Roping is absolutely
necessary for the passage of the glacier which now ensues. In 1 hr. the
Kjendalskrona (p. 192), the Lodalskaupe (see below), and other mountains
of the Nordfjord come in sight. In 2-3 hrs. we reach the first 'Varde'
on the opposite side. We cross the Kvandalsbrce (20 min.) and descend by a
rough and very fatiguing route along the edge of the glacier to the
(172 hr.) Kvandal (p. 192).

Farther on the road crosses a hill, which affords a fine retro-
spect of the part of the valley just traversed. In the other direction
the view of the *Nigardsbrce, between the Haugenaase (4260 ft.)
and the Liaxlen, now opens before us. The best view of this fa-
mous glacier (comp. p. 106) is obtained from the top of the moraine
('Brse-Vor'), which may be visited from the gaard of Nigard, s/thr. on
this side of Faaberg, in about 1 hr. (guide 1, to the head of the
glacier 6 kr. ; descent to the edge of the glacier uninteresting).

18 Kil. (11 Engl. M.) Faaberg (1310 ft.), a 'fast' station, with
a small house for travellers, kept by Rasmussen Larsen Faaberg,
an admirable guide for the Jostedal. (Those who project glacier-
tours should enquire on their journey whether Faaberg is at home,
so that, if necessary, they may bring another guide with them.)

From Faaberg through the Fagerdal to the Merkereidsdal, see p. 105.

Fkom Faaberg to Gredung i Strin across the Jostedalsbrs, 12-
13 hrs. (guide 12-14 kr.). The general plan is to ascend in the evening,
between the Liaxlen and the Hamrene and past the Bjernestegadn-Sater
in the Stordal, to the sseter of FaabergsUl (1875 ft.; l>/2 hr.), where
tolerable night-quarters are obtained. To the W., immediately above the
sseter, extends the Faabergstelbrce. Next morning we ascend the desolate
Stordal, passing the Oi-Saiter, where the path to the Gudbrandsdal over
the Hanspikje, mentioned at p. 162, diverges to the right. Farther on
we keep to the left and in l«/2 hr. reach the Lodalsbrw (ca. 2970 ft.),
which we ascend to the right, skirting the Rauskarfjeld, to the Joste-
dalsbrcc. The highest point of the latter is reached to the right of the
Lodalskaupe (6790 ft.; ascent very fatiguing, but view of surpassing
grandeur). The descent to Gredung takes 5-6 hrs. We first cross the
creviced Gredungsbra: or Erdalsbrw , which lies between the Stornaase
and the Klubben (5150 ft.), and then descend by a difficult path (rope
necessary) past the Skaarene to the lower end of the glacier (2300 ft ) The
valley now becomes less steep, and the sseter of Gredungsstel and the
gaard of Gredung are reached without farther difficulty (see p. 191).

c. Aurlandsfjord and Nser«fjord.

Steamboats twice weekly from Lardalseren to Gudvangen direct,
thrice weekly calling at intermediate stations and the Aurlandsfjord
and once via Aurland (comp. the 'Communicationer', No. 252 A 2) *

Lardalseren, see p. 99. — Opposite the promontory of Fod-
nas (p. 101) opens the valley of Vindedal, with the Store Graa-

Sognefjord. AURLANDSFJORD. 14. Route. 109

naase. Farther on, to the left, rise the Glipsfjeld and (beyond
Befncestangen) the huge Blejan (see below). To the right, charm-
ingly situated on the Amblebugt (p. 112), lies Amble (Husum's Inn),
which is touched at by some of the steamers. In front of us is
the Fresviksfjeld, with its glaciers. The steamer then passes the
Indre FrBningen and calls at (IV2 nr0 Ytre Freningen on the
main fjord. On a green plateau , about 400 ft. higher, lies
the School House, attended by the children of this very scatter-
ed district.

From Ytre Frtfningen the huge 'Blejan (5560 ft.) may be ascended in
6-7 hrs. •, it commands an admirable view of the Sognefjord, the Joste-
dalsbrse , the Horunger, the Jotunheim Mts., the Hallingdal, and Voss.
The fjord itself is best seen from the brink of the Lemeggen (5190 ft.), a
cliff descending almost perpendicularly to the N. — The ascent from
Frtfningen is steep. An easier route is from the Vindedal (p. 108; poor
accommodation), which may be reached from Laerdalscrren by small boat.
The best plan is to pass the night at the Vmdedals-Sceter, l'/a hr. above
the Vindedal and 2-3 hrs. from the top.

The steamboat turns to the left and steams round the Saganas
into the *Aurlandsfjord (see the Map, p. 100), passing the pre-
cipitous Nuten to the right. To the N.W. lies Lekanger (p. 114),
below the Ounvordsbra ; to the S. rises the Syrdalsfjeld with the
Steganaase (see below). The Aurlandsfjord and the Ncerefjord
which diverges from it (see below) are two enormous ravines with
precipitous rocky banks, 3000-4000 ft. in height, forming the
slopes of the higher mountains behind, most of which are not
visible from the lake. As these banks are rocky and barren, they
are almost entirely uninhabited ; but houses are occasionally ob-
served high above the lake, perched on some apparently inaccessible
rock. Over these abrupt slopes are frequently precipitated water-
falls of great height , partly perpendicularly, and partly in the
form of streaks of foam gliding over the dark-brown rock, and re-
flected in their whole length in the unruffled water of the som-
bre fjord. Their monotonous murmur alone breaks the profound
silence of the scene.

The first place in the Aurlandsfjord is Buene, to the left, with
a 'slide' for shooting down timber from the forests above. Then
Simlenms, and farther on the Fyssefos to the right, and Brednces or
Breinces, a group of poor houses on the left. The Kolar-Elv and Ko-
lartop are also seen to the left.

"We next steer between the capes of Narences and Beiteln and
enter the strikingly grand and severe *Neerofjord, the S.W. branch
of the Aurlandsfjord (comp. the Map, -p. 108). At the entrance
to this fjord we see in the distance the lofty mountains on the "W.
side of the Nceredal (p. 111). To the left rises the Krogegg, to the
right descends the Lagde-Elv, forming a waterfall nearly 1000 ft.
high. Farther on a fine view is enjoyed to the left of the snowy
amphitheatre of the Steganaase, beyond which is the Ojeiteggen,
lying even at noonday in a dark shadow. A little beyond. Dyrdal,

110 Route 1 4. GUDVANGEN. Sognefjord.

which lies on the right, at the mouth of the valley of that name,
the fjord contracts to a narrow defile, bounded by precipitous rocky
mountains of immense height. Onihe left rises] the Jdiddagsberg,
at the foot of which lies Styve. Farther on a number of falls de-
scend from the snow-fields to the left, while the Dyrdalsfjeld rises
to the right. We next pass, on the left, the Rauegg and the Nisse-
dals-Elv, the latter descending from the Skammedalsheidn (not
visible from the steamer). To the right is a magnificent waterfall,
upwards of 3000 ft. high, descending from the Ytre Bakken. The
fjord now turns more to the S., and comes in sight of the waterfall
of the Bakke-ELv and the church of Bakke, with a cluster of poor
cottages. Pleasant walk hence to Gudvangen by the road. The
mountains of the Nseradal are now very prominent. This is pro-
bably the finest part of the fjord. Farther on, several waterfalls
are seen on both sides.

Gudvangen. — 'Hansen's Hotel and Station, B. 1, B. 1, D., with beer,
2 kr., English spoken; Helland's Hotel, B. 1 kr. 20, B. 1 kr. 20, S. 1 kr.
20, D. 1 kr. 60 0.-2 kr. — Carriages (to Vossevangen, &c), await the arrival
of the steamer (fast station). — Diligence to Vossevangen, daily in 8 hrs.
(fare 7 kr.), starting at 12.15 p.m. and stopping for 2 hrs. at Stalheim.

Gudvangen, a hamlet on the Nceredals-Elv, at the head of the
Nsrflfjord, 5 min. from the landing-place, lies in so confined a
situation that it is not reached by the sun's rays throughout the
whole winter. On the E. rises the Sjerpenut, on the W. the Sol-
bjergenut. From the Kilsbotn, to the N. of the former, is pre-
cipitated the *Kilefos, a waterfall 1850 ft. in height, beginning
with a perpendicular fall of 500 ft. and terminating in a cataract.
On the right of the fall is the Hestnasfos and on the left the
Nautefos, which unite with it at one point and afterwards separate.

Gudvangen is the best starting-point for an excursion to the
*Nser«dal (a walk or drive of 5-6 hrs , there and back), which
forms the landward continuation of the fjord and preserves the
same wild and imposing character. About 20 min. from Gudvan-
gen the road crosses the exquisitely clear river. To the right
towers the huge Jordalsnut (3600 ft.), which consists of light-gray
felspath. On the rocky precipices on either side are seen traces
of the numerous avalanches (Skreder) which fall into the valley in
the early part of the summer. The road gradually ascends past
the houses of Sjerping and Hylland, and (about 9 Kil. from Gud-
vangen) reaches the *Stalheimskleveri£Kleven, 'cliff'), a precipitous
slope, about 1000 ft. in height, which terminates the valley. The
road ascends the 'Kiev' by means of sixteen somewhat steep zig-
zags , the ascent of which takes nearly an hour. On the way are
the *Sevlefos and"the Stalheimsfos, two picturesque waterfalls. At
the top of the pass (1120 ft.), stands *Stalheim's Hotel & Sana-
torium, a comfortable establishment (R. lV2_l3/4> A. V21 B. 1V2i S.
l!/2, D. 2, 'pens.' for a'stay of three days or more 5 kr.), of which
the landlord, Patterson, is an Englishman. From this point (es-

Sognefjord. AURLAND. 14. Route. Ill

pecially from the balcony of the hotel) we enjoy a very striking
**View of the profound and sombre Nseredal, with the huge moun-
tains surrounding it. To the left rises the blunted cone of the
Jordalsnut (3610 ft. ; guides , Ole Myren of Stalheim and Anders
Olsen Gudvangen of Gudvangen). Somewhat nearer us is the
mountain-route of Naalene, leading from the Gaard BrceVke to the
Oaard Jordal ; to the right are the Kaldafjeld (4265 ft.) and the
Aaxlen with the Kilefos in the distance , near Gudvangen. This
view is justly considered one of the grandest in Norway.

Travellers who do not intend to proceed to Vossevangen turn here.

From Gudvangen the steamer returns through the Naerafjord to
Beiteln (p. 109) and then steers to the S.E. into the Aurlandsfjord
proper. On the hill to the right are the Steg-Saters, with two
waterfalls. To the left a precipitous slope with the gaards of
Nedberge. Farther on, to the right, is Underdal, prettily situated,
with a church, whence the Steganaase ('ugly' or 'terrible nose' ;
5660 ft.), the highest peak of the Syrdalsfjeld, may be ascended
via the Melhus-Sater. Opposite, to the E., rises the long Flenje-
Eg, to the N. of which rises the double-peaked Jelben, to the S. the
Flenjanaase (4840 ft.). The fjord now widens considerably. The
mouths of several deep ravines are passed. To the left the gaard
of Skjerdal. The steamer stops at —

Aurland or Aurlandsvangen (*Brun's Inn , suitable for a long
stay ; telegraph-station) , the principal hamlet in the Vasbygd,
with a small stone church , from which a route leads past the
Aurlandsvand, up the imposing Oalder of Sennerheim, to the Hal-
Ungdal(see pp. 85, 82).

The interesting Flaamsdal (Flaam or Flauin signifying a flood , or
swollen river) may be visited by rowing to Gaarden Fretheim, at the
head of the fjord, G Kil. distant from Aurland, and walking or riding
thence along the Molda-Elv to Gaarden Melhus (1295 ft.), where the night
may be spent, or to Gaarden Kaardul, the highest house in the valley
(3-4 hrs.). The finest points in the Flaamsdal are the hill above the
church of Flaam, the Riondefos, Vibesnaase, and the Berakvamsgjel (Gjel
or Gil, 'cleft', 'ravine').

From Adhland to Vossevangen (3 days). 1st Day: to Kaardal , as
above. 2nd Day (guide desirable as far as Opsset): a steep ascent of
about 2000 ft. to the Gravahals (Hals signifying 'pass' ; 3725 ft.), following
the telegraph-wires; then a descent to the Opswt - Salter (ca. 2690 ft.),
whence the path follows the Rttndals-Elv via. Klevene (ca. 2400 ft.) to
Eggereid (ca. 1800 ft.), where the road begins (in all 12-14 hrs.). 3rd Day:
road to (25 Kil.) Vossevangen (p. 79). Above Kleve, passed about 10 Kil. on
this side of Vossevangen, is the so-called Sverresti ('Sverre's path'), which
is said to have been traversed by King Sverre and the Birkebeiner in
1177 (see p. xlix). — From the head of the Rundal, which is entered
a little to the S. of the Gravahals, and which will eventually be tra-
versed by the Bergen and Christiania Railway, another route, diverging
to the left, leads to (6-7 hrs.) Ose on the Ose/jord, a branch of the Har-
danger (p. 60). A rough mountain-track also leads from Klevene direct to
(6-7 hrs.) Ulvik (p. 59) ; another leads via Hallingskei and the Finsevand
to Tufte (p. 86).

From Aurland to L^rdal (2 days). This is an interesting route for
pedestrians, traversing magnificent mountain -scenery. 1st Day: steep
ascent of about 4000 ft. between the Blaaskavl (Skavl, 'snow-drift'; 2815 ft.;

112 Route 14. FRESVIK. Sognefjord.

ascended in 6 hrs. from Aurland; fine view) on the N. and Hdiskarsnuten
on the S., and afterwards passing the lofty Hodnsnipe on the right, to
the Hodnswler (8 hrs.). — 2nd Day: to the Skaale-Sceter and ascend the
Barshegda (4635 ft.), commanding a fine view as far as the Horunger,
and of the Jtfranaase with the Troldelifjeld. A rough sseter-path then
descends to the (7 hrs.) church of Tenjum in the Lcerdal (p. 97), from
which Lwrdalseren is 10 Kil. distant by the high-road.

d. From Leerdals«ren to Bergen by Steamer. The W. Sognefjord.

The direct distance is 230 Kil. (143 Engl. M.). Steamboat from Lwr-
dalseren to Bergen thrice weekly in 20-23 hrs. (fares 12 kr. 40, 7 kr. 75 «r.).
Each of the steamers slightly varies its route on each trip, so that it is
only at the most important stations that they touch regularly in each
direction. Such stations are indicated in the present route by being
printed in heavy type. (See 'Communicationer', No. 252, Al.) The
distances given below are those between the stations.

Lardalseren (p. 99), as already mentioned, is the most im-
portant place on the Sognefjord , being the starting-point of the
routes to Christiania through Valders and through the Hallingdal,
and also of the local steamers to the western branches of the Sogne-
fjord, which have been already described. The first station on the
steamboat route from Lserdal to Bergen is —

15 Kil. (9V2 Engl. M.). Amble, see p. 109. A road leads hence,
passing the Amblegaard (the owner of which, Mr. Heiberg, pos-
sesses a collection of relics relating to the widespread Norwegian
family of Heiberg), to (2 Kil.) Kaupanger, beautifully situated at the
head of the Bay of Amble, which somewhat resembles a large
crater. It is not a steamboat-station. The small Stavekirke, now
restored, dates from the time of King Sverre (12th cent.). The
landscape is diversified here by a number of fine elms and ashes.
From Amble to Sogndal the steamer usually takes 2^ hrs. or
more, having a circuit of 25 Engl. M. to perform, while the direct
distance is only 7 M.

Fbom Amble to Sogndal (13 Kil.). The direct route is by a good
road to (2 Kil.) Kaupanger (see above), beyond which it ascends, com-
manding a magnificent retrospect of the Sognefjord and particularly
of the precipitous slopes of the snow-clad Blejan (p. 109). The road then
enters a pine-forest, and descends past several large farms (each provided
with a Slabbur' and belfry with the ' Maulklaukkd , or bell to summon
the labourers to meals) to (7 Kil.) Eide (a poor station). A road skirting
the Eidsfjord leads hence to (6 Kil.) Loftesnces, a substantial farm-house
opposite Sogndal, to which the traveller crosses the Sogndalsfjord by
boat. It is, however, preferable to row from Eide to Sogndal (6 Kil., in
1 hr. ; boat with two rowers 1 kr. 8 0.), passing the picturesque Storhoug
(4235 ft.), a mountain furrowed by avalanches , and traversing the Eids-
fjord, in which herrings (Sild) are frequently caught in large numbers.
To the N. W. rise several snow-clad mountains. The water in this hay
is almost entirely fresh on the surface, but is Salter in its lower strata

10 Kil. (6 Engl. M.) Freningen (p. 109), at which the larger
steamers rarely touch, lies on the S. bank of the fjord, and is
reached in 1^2 hr. from Amble.

11 Kil. Fresvik, a small station on the S. bank of the Sognefjord,
at the entrance to the Aurlandsfjord (p. 109), lies at the N. base
of the Nonhaug (Non, 'noon', or rather 2 or 3 p.m., when the sun

Sognefjord SOGNDAL. 14. Route. 113

appears over this Haug). To the E. is Nuten with the Saltkjelnas.
A very interesting excursion may he taken to the Fresvik Glacier
(5145 ft.) to the S.W. (driving practicable part of the way). A
mountain-path leads hence through the Tundal and Jordal to
(8 hrs.) Stalheim (p. 110), on the road from Gudvangen to Vosse-
vangen.

The steamer now steers towards the N., passing the promon-
tories of Hensene ('the poultry') and Meisen, and enters the narrow
Sogndalsfjord, an arm of the Sognefjord about 12 Engl. M. in length.
On the left is Gaarden Lunden, at which the steamer calls twice
weekly ; on the right is Fimreite, on a fertile hill, commanded by
the mountain of that name (2570 ft.) rising above it. On 15th June,
1184, Magnus Erlingssen was signally defeated and slain here by
King Sverre. Passing through the narrow Norefjord (with the
peninsula of Nordnas on the left), we enter the Sogndalsfjord
strictly so called, the smiling banks of which form one of the best
cultivated districts in Norway. On the left rises Olmheims\Kirke.
Fardal (touched at twice weekly) lies at the mouth of the 0verste
Dal or Ofste-Dal. On the right opens the Eidsfjord, on the bank
of which rises the Storhoug (4235 ft.). On the left lies Gaarden
Stedje (or Steie~), with its thriving orchards.

3 M. Sogndal (* Daniel sen's Hotel, at the landing-place, new ;
Schjelderup's Hotel), consisting of Sogndalskirke , Hofslund, and
Sogndalsfjaren {Fjcere, 'beach'), reached, by steamer in II/2 hr. from
Fresvik, lies on an old moraine through which the Sogndals-Elv has
forced a passage. The beauty of the situation is enhanced by the
lofty mountains in the neighbourhood {Storhougen , to the S.,
easily ascended and affording a fine view; Skriken, 4115 ft., to
the S.W. ; and Njuken, 3190 ft., to the N., easily ascended in
3'/2 hrs.), and by the comfortable-looking farm-houses on the banks
of the fjord , among which that of Aaberge to the N. is especially
conspicuous. After the battle of Fimreite the victorious Birke-
beiner are said to have burned a hundred farm-houses here in one
day. A pleasant walk may be taken on the bank of the river to
the Waterfall, where there are several mills, and then to the S. to
the picturesque timber-built Church, a Bautasten adjoining which
bears the Runic inscription: 'Olafr konungr saa ut mille staina
thessa'. The road may then be followed to Stedje (see above), with
its two large Kmmpehouge ('giant tumuli'), whence we may return
to Sogndalsfjaeren by boat (an excursion of 1 hr. in all).

From Sogndal to Fjjerland (10-12 hrs.)- A tolerable road ascends from
Sogndal to (11 Kil.) the Sogndalsvand (1500 ft.), on which we row to (6 Kil.)
Gaarden Selseng at its N.W. end. To the W. opens the Gtmvordal, con-
taining a new sanatorium. From this point the traveller may ascend
Thorstadnakken (5250 ft.) , which commands an imposing view of the
mountains to the E. of the Fjserlandsfjord and of the Jostedalsbrse. To
the E. the Horunger are visible in clear weather. — The path now as-
cends the Langedal , passing several sseters, to the central of the three
depressions in the mountain, about 4130 ft. above the sea, to the left of

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. g

114 Route 14. F.LERLANDSFJORD. Sognefjord.

which rise the summits of the Fmdalsbrce (5165 ft.). It then descends
the Bergedal to Gaarden Berge on the E. bank of the Fjserlandsfjord, from
which a boat conveys us in 1 hr. to (6 Kil.) Fjcerland (see below). — From
Sogndal to Marifjwren, a beautiful walk or drive of 28 Kil.. see p. 104.

Returning to the central highway of the Sognefjord, the steamer
steers towards the W. and touches at —

3 M. Lekanger or Leikanger (*Inn of Herm. Bruus Enke, suit-
able for a prolonged stay, R. 1, B. 1, D. ll/2 kr.; *Fretheim's
Inn, in Hermansvik, new), situated on the beautiful and fertile
N. bank of the fjord, known as the Sjestrand. To the E. lies
Gaarden Henjum, with a quaint 'Stue' (wooden house) of the 17th
cent., and to the W. Gaarden Husebe, with a lofty Bautasten.

A day's excursion may be taken from Lekanger to the N. through
the Henjumdal to the Gimvordsbrce (5150 ft.).

On the opposite bank of the fjord lie Fejos, where the steamer
touches twice weekly, and Vangsnces, commanded by huge moun-
tains in the background. From Fejos mountaineers may ascend the
Rambaren (5250 ft. ; splendid view of the Jostedalsbrae and the
fjord) and the Fresviksbrce (5145 ft.), via the Gulsatdal. Less
ambitious climbers should at least ascend as far as Kongshei or
the Kongsvand (2-3 hrs.).

Opposite Vangsnses opens the *Fjaerlandsfjord (steamer once
weekly ; comp. the Communicationer, No. 252, A, 1), which extends
to the N. for a distance of 16 Engl. M., and is terminated by the
S. offshoots of the Jostedalsbrae. Its banks are very imposing,
though less precipitous than those of the Naerafjord (p. 109). On
the left, near the mouth of the fjord, diverge the Svarefjord and the
Vetlefjord (see p. 115). On the right, above the Rommedal, rises the
Rommehest (4100 ft.), which may easily be ascended, and com-
mands a mountain-view of the grandest description. The steamer
stops at —

Fjserland or Mundal (Inn kept by the Landhandler Mikkel
Mundal), 2 Kil. from the head of the fjord. A granite obelisk here
commemorates a visit of King Oscar II. A fine excursion may be
made to either of the two great glaciers of Suphellebrae or Bojums-
bne in 5 hrs. (there and back, guide unnecessary). The steamers
stop half-a-day at Fjcerland, allowing ample time for the excursion.
Stolkjaerres may be hired at Fjserland.

The *Store Suphellebrce, in the Suphelledal, 2 hrs. to the N.E.
of the steamboat-pier, descending to within 150 ft. of the sea-level,
is one of the lowest glaciers in southern Norway. The last 20 min.
must be traversed on foot. The lower part of the glacier, however,
consists merely of the fragments of ice which fall over the rocks
from the proper glacier above. The ice here is of a bright blue
colour. — About 1 hr. higher up lies the *Vettebrce or Lille Suphel-
lebra, which is remarkable for the purity of its ice. — The Skjei-
desnipa (4725 ft.) separates the Great Suphellebroe from the *Bo-

Sognefjord. BALHOLMEN. 14. Route. 115

jumsbrce, the foot of which is 600 ft. only above the fjord, present-
ing a huge ice-fall. We drive from Fjserland in 1 hr. (horse 1 kr.)
to Bjaradn, the highest farm in the Bojumdal, whence we walk to
the foot of the glacier in 1 hr. more.

Fkom Fj^kland ovek the Jostedalsbke: to Lunde, on the Kjus-
nffisfjord (p. 181); a very grand and wild route (guide J. Mundal; 10 kr.).
— To the foot of the Bojumsbrse, see ahove. We then ascend the Jakob-
bakkadn to (2J/2 hrs.) the glacier and (1 hr.) the Kvitevarde, the highest point
of the latter, affording the first view of the Jtflsterdal. We then descend
to (1 hr.) the Troldvand, a glacier-lake, and proceed through an impos-
ing rocky ravine to the O/2 hr.) Lmgeskaret. Skirting the glacier, we
descend to (2 hrs.) the Lunde-Elv, which we follow to the (3/4 hr.) gaard of
Lunde, on the Kj0snsesfjord (p. 182). Thence we go hy boat in 2 hrs. to
Skej or (tetter) Aardal; see p. 182.

From Hillestad to Fjcerland, see p. 103; from Sogndal to Fjccrland,
see p. 113.

Most steamers pass the Fjairlandsfjord without entering it. We
cannot, in this case, see the end of the Fjserlandsfjord, but just
before reaching Balholmen we obtain a view of the glaciers at the
head of the Vetlefjord (see below).

16 Kil. (10 Engl.) M. Balholmen (*Kvikne,s Inn), the principal
village on the fertile Balestrand, finely situated at the mouth of
the small Essefjord, near the entrance to the Fjarlandsfjord, which
may also he visited from this point. Balholmen is also a good start-
ing-point for several other interesting tours. The imposing moun-
tain-background consists of Ojeiteryggen , Vindrekken (3870 ft.),
and Ouldmple ; farther to the N. are Furunipa and Toten. Between
the Guldaeple and Furunipa is the curious gap called Kjeipen
('rowlock', from the supposed resemblance). The *Munkeg (4115 ft.),
to the S., which is easily ascended, commands a striking view.

The Balestrand is commonly supposed to be the scene of
Tegner's 'Frithjofs Saga'. King Bele's tomb (Oravhoug) is pointed
out, 1 Kil. to the S., while the fertile promontory of Vangsnas
opposite is said to be the Framnas of Frithjof ('the robber of
peace'). A carriage-road leads to the S. to (4J/2 Kil.) Flesje. — To the
N. of Balholm is the very picturesquely situated£church of Tjugum.

Fkom Balholmen to Sande (2 days). 1st Day. Row upjthe Svcerefjord
to (11 Kil.) Gaarden Svwren at the head of the bay (tolerable quarters); ascend
through the valley (3 Kil.) , and then by a steep and rugged path to the
Svwrskard (2300 ft.) , a pass between lofty mountains , whence a fine
retrospect is obtained towards the Sognefjord; the route next traverses
a boggy and sterile plateau to the watershed, descends th«nce, passing the
Torsnces Sceter (ca. 5 hrs. from Svseren) to the Holmevand in the Viksdal,
traverses wood at places, passes the Lange Safer, crosses the river, and
leads over marshy ground to Mjell (8-10 hrs. walk in all). — 2nd Day.
From Mjell by a bridle-path to Gaarden Hof, and thence by a road to the
pretty Viksvand (525 ft.), a lake about 12 Kil. long, which is traversed^ by
boat, passing the chapel of Hcesiad; thence by road to Sande (p. 179; a
walk of 3-4 hrs. and a row of l3/4 hr. in all).

Fkom Balholmen to Fukde (2 days). 1st Day. Row to (12 Kil.) Ulvestad,
at the head of the * Vetiefjord, and follow the road thence to (5 Kil.)
Mell, near which an offshoot (Jekel) of the Jostedalsbrce descends into

116 Route 14. VIK.

the valley; thence, with a guide, to Grening, at the N.E. end of the Hauke-
dalsvand (rough and fatiguing; 7-8 hrs.). [The MeUnipa (5785 ft.), to the
E. of the just-mentioned arm of the Jostedalsbree, and the Ootopfjeld or
Ootophesten (5630 ft.), to the N. of it, are said to command magnificent
views.] 2nd Day. From Grjjning via flolsen and Mo to Ferde on the
Furdefjord (p. 180; 10 hrs.; road).

The Sognefjord now turns sharply to the S.

14 Kil. (8 M.) Vik (*Inn), beautifully situated on a bay on the
S. side of the fjord, with fertile environs and snow-mountains in
the background. To the left rises Rambaren (5250 ft.). The two
old churches, one built of timber, the other of stone, are interest-
ing. Numerous boat-houses (Nest , locally pronounced Nausht).
To the N. the Vetlebrce, a branch of the Jostedals Glacier, is visible ;
more to the right is the Tvindefos.

From Vik three roads ascend the valley in three different directions
for about 8 Kil. — Interesting mountain -routes (about 8 hrs. each) lead
from the ends of these roads to Stalheim (p. 110; toilsome), to Vinje (p. 81;
driving practicable from Aarmot to Vinje, 11 Kil.), and to Otilbraa in the
Exingdal (guide necessary). From Gulbraa a fourth route leads via Rep-
pane to Vinje.

Soon after leaving Vik the steamboat passes a promontory on
the left, on which is placed a 'Oilje', or apparatus for catching
salmon , with waterfalls painted on it with a view to attract
the fish (comp. p. 233).

18 Kil. (11 M.). Nceset i Arnefjord, with an old church, pictur-
esquely situated in its bay on the S. side of the Sognefjord, is com-
manded by an imposing background of mountains about 3000 ft. in
height, which are green to their summits. Through the interven-
ing depressions snow-fields are seen in the background. — About
8 Kil. (5 M.) to the N.W., on the S. side of the main fjord, lies
Ortenvik, where the steamers occasionally touch, 1 M. to the N. of
which, on the opposite bank, lies —

5 Kil. (3 M.) Maaren, prettily situated, with a waterfall near
it. The white water-worn cliffs bear traces of the great height to
which they are sometimes washed by the waves.

9 Kil. (5Y2 M.) Kirkebe lies on the N. bank, nearly opposite
the Fuglsatfjord, which the steamer enters once weekly to call at
Bjordal.

11 Kil. (7 M.) Vadheim or Vadem (Hansen's Inn, mediocre;
'slow' station) is prettily situated at the head of the Vadheimsfjord,
a bay on the N. side of the Sognefjord. On the left rises the impos-
ing Noreviksheien, to the right a hill with Gaarden Hovden. 'Over-
land Route' to Molde, see R. 21.

On the Eikefjord, on the S. side, about 19 Kil.to the S.W. of
Vadheim, lies Tredal, at which the steamer touches twice weekly.

24 Kil. (15 M.) Ladvik, on the N. bank, the principal place
of the W. Sogn district, presents little attraction to travellers. A
little to the S.W. of it is Varholm, where the steamers touch
occasionally. To the S. of Vaerholm, on the opposite bank, is

B0FJORD. 14. Route. 117

9 Kil. (5'/2 M.) Brmkke, on the small Risnefjord, above which
the Stanglandsfjeld rises to the W.

13 Kil. (8 M.) Befjord or Lervik (telegraph-station) , on the
small fjord of that name. To the N. of Lervik rises the Lihest
(2470 ft.), at the head of the Aafjord.

The magnificent scenery of the Sognefjord is now quitted ; the
mountains become lower and more barren, and the picturesque
side-valleys disappear. The last station on the fjord is —

17 Kil. (IOY2 M.) Sognefest, on the S. side, opposite which, to
the "W., rise the Sulen-0er, a group of islands (the 'Solundare'
of Frithjofs Saga), containing mountains 1800 ft. in height. The
steamer now passes through the strait called the Sognesje, and next
stops at —

13 Kil. (8 M.) Eivindvik on the Gulenfjord, the famous seat of
the ancient Oulathingslag, a popular assembly, to whose jurisdiction
all the western 'Fylker' ftomSendmere to Rygjarbit (now Christian -
sands-Stift and Bergen-Stift , including the Hallingdal and Val-
ders) were subject. The steamer now threads its way through the
'Skjaergaard' or network of islands to the N. of Bergen , inhabited
by 'Striler1, as the natives of this region are called, touching at
(7 Kil.) Skjmrjehavn, (32 Kil.) Lygren, and (13 Kil.) Alverstrem-
men, and at length reaches —

21 Kil. (13 M.) Bergen (see R. 10).

15. From Christiania to Molde by the Gudbrandsdal.

Lake Mj#sen.

483 Kil. (300 Engl. M.). Railway from Christiania to Eidsvold, 68 Kil.
(42V2 Engl. M.), in 2V4-3V4 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20, 1 kr. 60 <*.). The
traveller may also go as far as Hamar by railway, but this is not re-
commended. — Steamboat daily from Eidsvold to Lillehammer, 105 Kil.
(66 M.), in 7 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 55, 3 kr. 70 0.). The steamers ('Torden-
skjold', 'Kong Oscar', 'Skibladner') have good restaurants on board. —
Diligence from Lillehammer to Veblungsnces , 274 Kil. (169 M.), four
times weekly in three days, running in connection with the steamers on
Lake MJ0sen and the Romsdalsfjord (comp. the 'Communicationer') and
stopping for the night at Bredevangen and Lesjeverk; or at Klevstad and
Holaker (in the reverse direction at different stations every journey) ; fare
40 kr. — Steamboat fromVeblungsnses to Molde, 36 Kil. (22»/2 M.), 3-4 times
weekly in 3-4'/2 hrs.

As to the 'Diligence', see p. 91. In midsummer the seats are gener-
ally engaged beforehand. The traveller will find it preferable to hire
a Carriage at Lillehammer for the drive to Veblungsnaes , for which
150-200 kr. (sometimes less) is charged, with a fee of 5-6 kr. An open
'Trille' is cheaper. The solitary traveller should drive by carriole (which
costs about 50 kr., including fees), devoting 4-5 days to the journey. In this
case the finest parts of the route, particularly those from Stuefloten to
Ormeim and from Flatmark to Veblungsnaes, can be traversed on foot, the
luggage being sent on in a 'stolkjaerre'. The skyds-stations are all 'fast'.
Travellers by carriage or carriole should not spend the night at the places
where the diligence stops (see above). The best quarters for the night
are at Fossegaarden, Skjceggestad, Listad, Laurgaard, To/temoen, Domaas,
Holsaet , Stuefloten , Ormeim, and Veblungsnaes. — The scenery increases in
grandeur as we advance towards the W.

118 Route 15. EIDSVOLD. From Christiania

Christiania, see p. 1. As the train leaves the station, we
obtain a fine view of Christiania and the fjord to the left, and of
the Egeherg and the suburb of Oslo to the right. Stations Bryn
(260 ft.), Grorud (420 ft.), Stremmen (485 ft.). Then —

21 Kil. (13 Engl. M.) Lillestremmen (355 ft. ; Railway Restau-
rant, small), the junction of the line to Eidsvold and Kongsvinger
(see p. 274). The railway from this point to Eidsvold, constructed
in 1851, is the oldest in Norway. The country is unattractive, but
at Frogner (405 ft.) and Kleften (545 ft.) a glimpse is obtained of
the distant blue mountains to the W. Beyond Trygstad (666 ft.)
the train crosses extensive tracts of gravel , interspersed with
scanty wood. Beyond Dal, which possesses several pretty villas,
the scenery becomes more interesting. Two tunnels are passed
through.

68 Kil. (42 M.) Eidsvold (410 ft. ; *Jembane Hotel, at the sta-
tion). Travellers arriving from Christiania by the morning train go
at once on board the steamboat, which starts 74~72 hr. later. — If
the traveller makes any stay here he may visit the Eidsvold Baths
on the Eidsvoldsbakke (R. 4-6 kr. per week , 'pension' 2 kr. per
day; baths 50-80 0.), and the Bautasten , or monument, erect-
ed to Henrik Wergeland (d. 1845), the poet, and the discoverer
of the spring. Both lie on the right (W.) bank of the Vormen.

A pleasant walk may be taken to Mdsvoldsverk, about 5 Kil. distant,
where the Norwegian constitution (Gorges Riges Grundlov) was established
in 1814. A preliminary meeting took place here on 19th Feb. of that
year, the sittings of the national diet began on 10th April, and the con-
stitution (Grundlov) was adopted 17th May (comp. p. lxxv). The building,
originally a farm-house, has been purchased by government and embellished
with portraits of members of the diet.

Continuation op the Railway, to Hamar and Throndhjem,
see p. 211.

The Steamboat at first traverses the broad and clear Vormen,
which issues from Lake Mj«sen and falls into the Glommen.
Large tracts of debris, deposited by former glaciers, are passed on
both sides. At (8 Kil.) Minne (railway-station, p. 211), where a
bridge crosses the Vormen, the steamer reaches the lake itself.

Lake Mj^sen (405 ft.), the largest lake in Norway, which L.
v. Buch has called 'Norway's inland sea', is 100 Kil. (62 M.) long
and at its broadest part 15 Kil. (9V2 M-) in width, and forms a
convenient highway between the districts of Gudbrandsdalen and
Hedemarken to the N. and E., and those of Toten and 0vreRome-
rike to the "W. and S. Like the Alpine lakes of Switzerland, Lake
Mjasen is very deep at places (1575 ft. near the Skreiafjeld), and
though it lies 405 ft. above the sea-level, it is a curious fact that
the lowest part of its bed is 1170 ft below that level. The Skreia-
kampen or Skreiafjeld, on the W. bank, about halfway between
Eidsvold and Gjavik , rises to the height of 2320 ft., but with
this exception the hills bounding the lake are of very moderate
height. The only considerable bays formed by the lake are those

to Molde. HAMAE. 15. Route. 119

of Tanyen and Hamar ( Akersviken) . Opposite to Hamar lies the
large and. well-cultivated Helge (Holy Isle; 1050 ft.), the only is-
land in the lake. The erection of fortifications and a large central
arsenal (like that of Karlsborg in Sweden, p. 296) on this island
is projected. The Hunner 0rret is a kind of trout peculiar to this
lake.

The scenery of the banks of Lake Mjesen is of a soft and
pleasing character. They present an almost unbroken succession
of fields, woods, and pastures, studded with numerous farm-houses
and country residences, but will perhaps seem somewhat monoton-
ous if the traveller goes all the way from Eidsvold to Lillehammer
in one day.

The steamer touches at Elcornholm , Stigersand , and Fjeldhoug
on the "W. bank, and then crosses to Oillund and —

Hamar (* Victoria, Jernbane Hotel, both near the steamboat
pier and railway- station, and facing the lake), the capital of
Hedemarken, sometimes called ' Storehammer1 to distinguish it from
Lillehammer, with 3600 inhab., prettily situated between the
Furncesfjord to the N. and the Akersvik to the E. The latter is
crossed by a long bridge. Hamar dates from 1152, when an episcopal
see was founded here by the papal nuncio Nicholas Breakspeare,
an Englishman , afterwards Pope Adrian IV. From that period
also are said to date the ruins of the old Cathedral, once a handsome
edifice , of which four round arches of the nave alone are left.
A pleasant walk may be taken to the ruins, 25 min. to the N.W.,
where the original town of Storehammer was situated. The old
town was destroyed by the Swedes in 1567. The modern town,
which received its municipal charter in 1848, and again became an
episcopal see in 1864, has thriven greatly since the construction of
the railway to Throndhjem (p. 211). — Near Hamar is the 'Folke-
heiskole' of Sagatun.

The steamer now steers towards the W., passing on the left
the pretty Helge (see above), and touches at Nats, Smervik, and —

Gj«vik(* 6 jeviks Hotel, near the pier, with view of the lake,
and * Victoria , 100 yds. farther up the main street), the capital
of Toten Fogderi, with 1200 inhab., situated on the W. bank of
the lake, about 60 Kil. from Eidsvold and 40 Kil. from Lilleham-
mer, and. at the mouth of the Hunns-Elv. Pleasing views of the
lake and Helga from the church of Hunn (which contains a good
altar-piece by Miss Asta Nerregaard) and other heights near the
village.

Fkom Gjovik to Odn.ks, 38 Kil. (24 M.), carriage-road with fast sta-
tions. Diligence daily (fare 4'/2 kr.), starting at 5 p.m., stopping for the
night at Granum, and reaching Odnses in time for the Eandsfjord steamer
(7 a.m.); in the reverse direction it leaves Odnses at 6.30 p.m., passes the
night at Mustad, and reaches Gj0vik in time for the steamer on Lake
Mj0sen (10.30 a.m.; comp. p. 117). — The road at first ascends rapidly,
traversing extensive woods, to —

14 Kil. Mustad (1510 ft. ; a fair station). The drive to this point oc-

120 Route 15. LILLEHAMMER. From Christiania

cupies fully 2 hrs., after which the road traverses a nearly level plateau
to (11 Kil.) Lien, a farm-house near the road, and formerly the station
(clean and cheap). About 3 Kil. farther on (14 Kil. from Mustad) is —

Granum (1342 ft. ; a fair station), situated a little to the right of the
road, which farther on descends to the basin of the Randsfjord (p. 91).
About halfway between Granum and Odnses a direct road to (140 Kil.)
Christiania diverges to the S.

10 Kil. Odncei, see p. 92.

The steamer now continues its northward way through the lake,
which gradually contracts, and touches at Heggenhaugen, Ringsaker
(with an old church containing a Flemish altar-piece of the 16th
cent.), Biri (with a glass-foundry), and Frengstuen. About 2^4 hrs.
after leaving Gjevik it reaches —

Lillehammer. — "Victoria Hotel, with the skyds-station, well
situated, near the bridge over the Mesna; "Madame Okmsbud, in the main
street , on the left, a little farther on ; charges at both , R. l-l3/», B. or
S. 1, D. 2 kr. ; Johansen. — The steamboat-pier is fully 1 Engl. M. from
the hotels; omnibus to and from the pier.

Information about the Diligence to Veblungsnaes is given by Amti-
fuldmwgtig Sreiset. — Telegraph Station.

Shops. F. Frisenberg , on the E. side of the main street, sells well-
executed silver-plate and trinkets at moderate prices; tastefully carved
meerschaum-pipes, etc., at G. Larsen's, on the opposite side of the street.

Lillehammer is beautifully situated on the Mesna, on the
E. bank of Lake Mjesen (585 ft.), about 150 ft. above the lake,
and !/2 Engl. M. below the influx of the Laagen (Laug, Laag, or
Log, i.e. 'river'; Laagen, 'the river'; Hhe Laagen', though gene-
rally used, is , grammatically speaking , a pleonastic expression).
The town (1700 inhab.), which presents a modem appearance,
has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1827 only. It is called
Lillehammer ( 'little hammer') to distinguish it from Hamar or Store-
hammer. The principal building is the substantial and handsome
Grammar School (Latinskole) , at the S. end of the main street,
overlooking the church and the lake. A cotton-mill, saw-mills,
and flour-mills add to the importance of the place. Lillehammer is
a pleasant point for a short stay , and being the terminus of the
Mjesen steamboats and the starting-point of the Gudbrandsdal
route, is a very busy place in summer and a great rallying-point
for'travellers.

The turbulent Mesna forms several pretty waterfalls about
1/2 Engl. M. to the N.E. of the town, the finest being the *Helve-
deshel, or 'hell cauldron', near which is the Niagara Bath House ;
to Teach them we ascend the first side-street to the left near the
Victoria Hotel, with the notice-board 'Til Mesna Bad'. Pleasant
walk of 1/2 nr' t0 the S-, passing the Grammar School, to a bench
on the road-side, commanding a fine view of the lake, here scarcely
3/4 Engl. M. in breadth. To the E. of Lillehammer stretches a
vast tract of forest, wild and almost uninhabited. The Mesna and
the Mesna Lakes, in a sequestered situation 7 Engl. M. to the E.
(reached by a rough, and at places swampy forest-path), afford
good trout-fishing.

to Molde. GUDBRANDSDAL. 75. Route. 121

On the W- bank of Lake Mj»sen, opposite Lillehammer (ferry
adjoining the steamboat-pier), lies Oaarden Vingnces, a posting-
station, prettily situated, from which a good, but somewhat hilly
road, with fast stations, leads to Gj»vik (p. 119).

At Lillehammer begins the Gudbrandsdal , or valley of the
Laagen, through which our road ascends. As in the case of the
Hallingdal (p. 81) the name is applied not only to the principal
valley but also in a loose general sense to all the small lateral
valleys the streams of which drain into the Laagen. The inhabi-
tants (Oudbrandsdeler), about 50,000 in number, are generally
well-to-do, and distinguished by their curious customs and their
pride. According to Norwegian ideas the valley is well cultivated,
but the cattle-pastures occupy much more ground than tilled fields.
In summer most of the inhabitants migrate with the cattle to the
sseters. The scenery of the Gudbrandsdal is comparatively tame,
as the heights enclosing it are merely the lower spurs of the fjeld,
the higher peaks of which are only occasionally visible. The val-
ley sometimes expands and becomes more picturesque, but as a
whole it is sombre and somewhat monotonous.

The admirable road ('Kongevei') ascends gradually from Lille-
hammer, at a considerable height above the Laagen, and passes
smiling green slopes with forest in the background. The numerous
heaps of stones ('Agerstene') on the road -side testify to the
trouble which the farmers have had in preparing their land for
cultivation. The syllables rud, rod, or ryd in which names of
Norwegian places so frequently terminate have reference to the
'uprooting' of trees and removal of stones. On the left is passed a
'Mindesten', or monument, to Hr. Bergh, constructor of the road.

At Brunlaag, IV2 hr. to the N. of Lillehammer, a road descends |to
the left into the valley, crosses the Laagen, and then ascends the Gausdal,
passing (12 Kil.) Diserud, (15 Kil.) Veisten. (11 Kil.) Mo (well spoken of),
and (17 Kil.) Kvisberg (good quarters at the LandhandlerNordgaarden's). A
little beyond Diserud is the gaard of Olestad, belonging to Bjemsljerne
Bjernson, the poet and novelist. From Kvisberg to Jotunheim, see p. 123.

The Gausdal Sanatorium, a large hotel and pension near the Skei-
sceler, and a favourite resort of Norwegian visitors, is finely situated on
the slope of Skeidkampen, to the right of the Gausdal, about 2500 ft. above
the sea-level, and 42 Kil. from Lillehammer. An omnibus, starting at 8 a.m.,
runs from the Victoria Hotel daily in summer (in 5 hrs.) to the Sanatorium,
returning thence to Lillehammer in the afternoon (fare 8 kr.). It may
also be reached by carriole via Diserud and (14 Kil.) Senstevold. Visitors
making a prolonged stay at the Sanatorium pay from 5'/2 kr. per day or
125 kr. per month for board and lodging; passing travellers are charged
hotel-prices. ! Among the finest of the many pleasant walks and excursions
which may be taken from the Sanatorium are the ascents of*Skeidbampen
(3775 ft. ; 1 hr.) and Prceslekampen (4200 ft.; 2 hrs.), which command ad-
mirable views of Jotunheim and the Rondane.

14 Kil. Foasegaarden (good quarters, D. 1 kr. 60 ».) is beau-
tifully situated above the Laagen, which here forms a fine fall call-
ed the Hunnerfos, where the famous Hunnererreter, or lake-trout
(p. 119), are caught in large numbers. The Neverfjeld, a fine point
of view, to the E., may be ascended hence in 2 hrs.

122 Route 15. SKJJEGGESTAD. From Christiania

Beyond Fossegaarden the road traverses a ravine where the
Laagen has forced its passage through a barrier of rock. On the
left rises the Dreshula, a picturesque cliff. The vegetation is very
rich. — The peasants here wear red caps (Topluer), and frequently
carry a peculiar kind of pannier on their hacks (Bagmeis, elsewhere
called Nceverkont). On the road-side are a number of Hvilesteller,
or open stalls for resting horses. The posts flanking the road (called
Rodestolper) mark the portions (Roder) which the adjoining land-
owners are bound to keep in repair.

17 Kil. Holmen i Tretten (good quarters). A little farther on is
Formo, from which a view is obtained to the E. of the snow-capped
peaks of the Rdndane (p. 213). An annual horse-fair of considerable
importance is held at the neighbouring village of Stav in August.
Between Formo and Kirkestuen lies Lake Losna, which contains
excellent fish. The scenery continues to be attractive.

16 Kil. Kirkestuen (*Station), near the church of Fodvang. On
the left rises the picturesque mountain called Tuliknappen, and to
the right the Djupdal, above which is Gaarden Vpsal. Near Kirke-
stuen the height attained by the river during an inundation (Flom)
on 16th and 17th June, 1860, is marked on the rocks. The Toad
next passes through a ravine bounded by the precipitous and fur-
rowed Elstakleven and the Rotosbjerg, a similar rock opposite. The
horns of the cattle here are frequently tipped with wooden or metal
knobs to prevent them from doing injury. On the road-side are
een numerous snow-ploughs (Sneplouge).

12 Kil. Skjaeggestad (*Station; walls adorned with photo-
graphs, including 'Col. Ramsay's Landing' from a picture by
Tidemand) is picturesquely situated , but the environs are some-
what marshy. On a hill to the left, a little beyond it, stands the
old church of Ringebo. The Klinkenberg (3080 ft.) is sometimes
ascended hence for the sake of the view (6-8 hrs. there and back ;
horses at the station).

From Skjseggestad a lonely bridle-path leads to Solliden and the
-Alnevand (a day's jonrney), whence the traveller may either proceed to
Folded and Jerkin on the Dovrefjeld (p. 203) by a tolerable road, or de-
scend the valley of the Alne-Blv to Atna. Comp. p. 218.

The valley now becomes somewhat marshy. We pass Vaal-
hougen on the right, and cross the Vaala-F.lv (fine view). We next
observe the Gaard Steig, picturesquely and loftily situated, once
the residence of the 'Foged' Lars Gram, the leader of the peasants
who annihilated the Scottish invaders commanded by Col. Ramsay
(p. 123). Farther on is Gaarden Huntorpe, once the seat of Dale
Gudbrand, the powerful heathen opponent of St. Olaf. Beyond it
is Gaarden Hove, once the scene of heathen sacrificial rites. In
the vicinity are several barrows (Kampehouge).

14 Kil. Listad i Sendre Fron (*Station ; *Gaard Lillehove, a
little farther on), near which is the church of Fron, prettily situat-
ed, is a good place for spending the night. The road now descends

to Molde. STORKLEVSTAD. 15. Route. 123

gradually to the Laagen, which here begins to assume the character
of a mountain-torrent. About 8 Kil. beyond Listad, near the gaard
of Solbraa, the stream forms the fall of Harpefos (not visible from
the road).

10 Kil. Moen i Setorp (clean quarters, well spoken of). About
2 Kil. farther on is the private station of Byre, with an inn. A road
to the right, crossing the Laagen, leads hence to Kvikne and Shabo,
whence a dreary track ascends to Jotunheim (not recommended).
Comp. R. 16.

The scenery now becomes of a wilder and grander description.
The valley turns to the N., and then, beyond Gaarden Vik (good
quarters), to the W. To the left, about i/2 Engl. M. on this side of
Storklevstad, is a monument to Capt. Sinclair (see below).

12 Kil. Storklevstad (quarters dear) lies a little below the
church of Kvam (870 ft.). The road now traverses a poor district,
partly wooded with stunted pines and birches. The fields are ir-
rigated by means of numerous cuttings (Rcenner). The cottages of
the Husnuend, or farm-labourers, called Stuer, are usually roofed
with turf. The large slabs of slate common in this district are used
for making walls, for roofing purposes, and for the drying of malt.
A number of small gaards are perched on the hill-side in apparently
inaccessible situations. The magpie (Skjer), an object of super-
stitious veneration among the Norwegian peasantry, is frequently
seen here. The river here forms numerous rapids and cataracts.
The road has now attained a height of about 1000 ft. above the
sea-level, or 600 ft. above the Laagen. The Sjoa here falls into
the Laagen.

Immediately above the confluence of the Sjoa and Laagen a road di-
verges to the left, crosses the Laagen, and ascends the valley of the Sjoa
to the church of Hedalen and {25 Kil. from Storklevstad) Bjalstad, one
of the largest and most interesting gaards in Norway, the proprietor of
which claims to be of royal descent. The next stations are Nordre Snerle
and (24 Kil.) Serum (p. 131).

The road now passes the new district-prison, and reaches the
station of —

16 Kil. Bredevangen (*Inn), beautifully situated. The back-
ground of the Alpine picture, looking up the valley , is formed
by the massive Formokampen (4835 ft.). A little beyond Bred-
evangen the Laagen is joined on the left by the green and copious
Otta-Elv, through the valley of which a road leads to (11 Kil.)
Aasoren, (16 Kil.) Snerle, and (7 Kil.) Serum (p. 131).

On the right side of the road, about halfway between Bredevangen
and Moen, is the steep hill called Kringlen, which was formerly
traversed by the old road. On 26th August, 1612, when Col. Ram-
say and Capt. Sinclair with 900 Scottish auxiliary troops, who had
landed a few days previously at the Klungenies on the Romsdals-
fjord, were attempting to force their way through Norway to join
the Swedes, who were then at war with the Norwegians, they were

124 Route 15. LAURGAARD. From Christiania

intercepted by an ambush of 300 Norwegian peasants at this spot.
The natives had collected huge piles of stones and wood on the
hill above the road, which they hurled down on the invaders when
they reached this part of the road. Most of the ill-fated Scots
were thus destroyed, while the survivors, with a few exceptions,
were put to the sword. See p. lxxi of this Handbook; also Thomas
Michell's 'History of the Scottish Expedition to Norway in 1612'
(London, T. Nelson & Sons) and Laing's 'Norway'. The massacre
is commemorated by a tablet in the rock to the left, bearing the
inscription, 'Erindring om Bendernes Tapperhed'.

8 Kil. Moen i Sel (tolerable station) lies at the confluence of
the Lougen with the Via, which descends from Lake Via at the foot
of the Rdndane (p. 213), and forms the Daanofos ('thunder-fall')
close to the road. The wall of the neighbouring churchyard of Sel
is curiously constructed of slabs of slate , while most of the old
tombstones are of Klcebersten or soapstone. Half-an-hour may be
pleasantly spent here in ascending the interesting valley of the
Via for a short distance. — The pigs of the Gudbrandsdal, some-
times adorned with triangular pieces of wood (Sule) round their
necks, enjoy perfect liberty, and are a sturdy, wholesome-looking
race.

We now pass several deposits of stone and detritus (Skred), the
ends of which from some unexplained cause rise in the form of
knolls. The largest of these is passed near Laurgaard, before
reaching which we cross the river.

10 Kil. Laurgaard (1040 ft. ; *Station, excellent cuisine).

An interesting excursion may be made hence by a bridle-path to the
Hmringen Sceter, fitted up as a small inn, the property of the station-
master at Laurgaard , about 11 Kil. distant. Near it rises "Formokampen
(4835 ft.), a fine point of view, easily ascended.

Fkom Ladkgaakd to Sukum (21 Kil.). The picturesque, but hilly road
crosses the mountains to the W. of Laurgaard (see p. 129).

The road now leads along the Laagen through the imposing
pine-clad *Ravine ofRusten. The river has here forced itself a pas-
sage through the rocky barrier of Rusten, and descends in a series
of rapids and cataracts. The finest point is at the *Bridge which
carries the road to the right bank of the river, about 3/4 hr. beyond
Laurgaard. The traveller is recommended to walk from Laurgaard
to the bridge, near which diverges the above-mentioned road to the
Havringen Saeter. On emerging from the ravine we find ourselves
in an Alpine valley, 1850 ft. above the sea -level, in which
cultivation almost totally disappears. Cuttings for irrigation ap-
pear here also. On the right rises the Rustenfjeld, on the left the
Kjelen, the huge mountain -mass between the Lesse Valley and
Vaage. As late as July large patches of snow are seen by the
road-side. The broad floor of the valley is covered with deposits
of stone and sand, partially overgrown with stunted pines.

12 Kil. Braendhougen (1555 ft.; *Station), in the parish ('Prse-

to Molde. DOMAAS. 15. Route. 125

stegjeld') of Dovre. — The Jetta (5425 ft.), which rises to the W.,
is sometimes ascended from Brsendhougen. It commands an im-
posing view of the Dovrefjeld, the Rondane, and the Jotunfjeld.

We now cross the Laagen by a new bridge, and soon after pass
the church of Dovre (1550 ft.), which Prof. Forbes calls a singular
and ugly structure ('Norway', p. 11), situated on an ancient moraine.
Like many of the Norwegian churches, it is built in the form of a
Greek cross. In the centre rises the tower. At the end of each arm
of the cross is a small projecting addition. The whole structure is
covered with large dark slabs of slate. Some of the tombstones in
the churchyard are interesting. — The farms, as usual, are nearly
all placed on the sunny side of the valley ('Solside'). A little
beyond the church of Dovre, to the right, high up, lies the ancient
royal gaard of Tofte.

12 Kil. Toftemoen (^"Station, moderate charges) lies at the head
of the (rudbrandsdal in the narrower sense. The name signifies
an inhabited site (Tuft) on a sandy plain (Mo). The word 'toft'
occurs in England and Scotland in a somewhat similar sense.

Beyond Toftemoen the road ascends over huge deposits of de-
tritus to Gaarden Lid, the buildings of which are roofed with birch-
bark (NcBver) covered with green turf. We obtain here a fine view
of the profound ravine of the Laagen , with the Kjelen rising
above it. The peak in the distance is the Horungen.

11 Kil. Domaas, or Dombaas (2160ft.; ^Station and telegraph-
office ; the station-keeper and telegraph official speak English),
is an important place owing to its position at the junction of the
Gudbrandsdal and Dovrefjeld routes (see R. 25), and lies high
above the ravine of the Laagen. White fox and other skins and
reindeers' antler are offered for sale here. The air is fresh and
exhilarating, and the place is suited for a prolonged stay.

A pleasant excursion of 4-5 hrs. may be taken from Dombaas to the
Hardeg-Sceter on the S. hank of the Laagen, where a fine view of the valley,
of Sneheettans (p. 208), and other mountains is enjoyed.

The road to Molde leads as far as Stuefloten through an uninter-
esting and shallow upland valley, the mountains enclosing which
are comparatively tame in form. The bottom of the valley is sandy,
and partially covered with a scanty growth of pines, birches, and
heather. The ascent is very gradual. Below us, to the left, is the
bed of the Lesjevand (1720 ft.), which has been drained.

12 Kil. Holaker (*Station, moderate charges). The road pass-
es the Lesje-Kirke and reaches —

15 Kil. Holsset (^Station; the station-master speaks English),
at the N.W. end of the Lesjevand.

A bridle-path ascends from Holsset by the Lora-Elv to the Storsoeter
and the Nysceter (about 5 hrs.), and crosses the mountains thence to Aan-
slad (or Skeaker, p. 162), a long day's journey, which may be broken by
spending a night at the Nysseter, a pleasing specimen of the Norwegian
chalet (see p. 126).

In the highest part of the valley lies the Lesjeskogenvand

126 Route 15. M0LMEN. From Christiania

(2050 ft.), 10 Kil. in length, from which to the W. the Rauma
descends to the Atlantic, and to the E. the Laagen to the Skager-
rak. In the vicinity is a pictuiesque -waterfall. The fishing is
well spoken of.

10 Kil. Lesjeverk (*Station), at the S.E. end of the lake,
derives its name from the iron-mine formerly worked here. The
station-house is an interesting timber building of the middle of
the 18th century.

12 Kil. Madmen (Station) lies at the W. end of the lake
and near the church of Lesjeskogen, which has given its name to
the whole district.

The "Storhe (6690 ft.), a fine point of view, may be ascended from
M0lmen in 6-8 hrs. (there and back; guide 2 kr.); the ascent is somewhat
fatiguing but offers no serious difficulty.

From M0lmen to the Gaard Reitan in the upper Eikisdal (10-12 hrs.),
a fatiguing mountain-path, see p. 205.

Fuom M0lmen to Aanstad, about 80 Kil. (50 Engl. M.), accomplished
in two days of 7 hrs. each. Walking is difficult on account of the nu-
merous rushing brooks that have to be forded; horse 12, guide 12 kr. Good
weather indispensable.

The route traverses a dreary mountain-tract , the wildness and sol-
emnity of which may almost be described as awe-inspiring. Fine weather
is of course indispensable to the enjoyment of the expedition, the chief
attraction of which consists in the distant views. Reindeer are occa-
sionally met with. The route is quite unattended with danger, as the
track is well defined by means of heaps of stones (Vardef), to which it
has for centuries been the custom for travellers to contribute. Provisions
are necessary, as the Nysseter affords nothing but coffee, milk, and Rem-
megred (wheat-meal boiled in cream, very rich). Those who merely wish
to see something of the Fjelds, without going farther to the S., may make
the excursion from M>lmen to the Digervarde (see below), varying the
route in returning (horse 5, guide 5 kr.).

1st Day. The path gradually ascends through a birch-wood in the
Orendal to the (1 hr.) Greinsaztre (or sseters of Enstad and Meltnen), where
we obtain a view of the Romsdal mountains. The path descends to the
stream and crosses several brooks and deposits of detritus. Aconite and
the dwarf birch (fietula nana) are frequently seen here, and the Alpine
or Lapland character of the flora becomes more marked as we proceed.
Reindeer-moss (Rensdtjrmosser), here eaten by the cows, is also abundant.
After 2 hrs. more the path again ascends to the left. The birch dis-
appears, and patches of snow are passed. Looking back, we observe the
Svarth0i to the N. of M0lmen, and the Storh0i more to the right. The
scenery soon becomes exceedingly bleak and wild. In l'/s hr. more we
reach the top of the first hill (Toppen), where we obtain a striking view
of the Romsdal mountains to the N.W. : Mongejuret, Vengetinder, the
Komsdalshorn (usually called 'Hornet'). To the N.E. are the Svarthtfi and
Storh0i, and farther distant the Snehsettan snow-range. To the S.W. rises
the Lpfthtfi with its large glacier. A ride of 1 hr. to the S. over stony
ground, scantily overgrown with reindeer-moss, chamois-cress, and other
Lapp flora, brings us to the second Top, called the "Digervarde, about
5000 ft. in height, which commands a view of the whole Jotunheim chain,
from the Glittertind to the Fanaraak and beyond it. The Galdh0pig is
particularly prominent. The guides are apt to choose a route passing to
the N. of the Digervarde, but the traveller should expressly ask to be
led to it.

We now descend in about 2 hrs. more, over loose stones part of the
way, to the Nysseter, a building with four rooms, kept by civil herd-girls.
(There is one bed which will accommodate two travellers. Alpine fare'
Everything clean, though homely.) The girls call (lulken) the cattle down

to Molde. NYSiETER. 15. Route. 127

from the hills in the evening by singing 'Fjeldviser* similar to those with
which Jenny Lind once delighted the world.

2nd Day. By starting very early, we may reach Aanstad soon after
noon. The monotonous track crosses the Lorafjeld, which it reaches in
about an hour. It passes several tarns (Tjern, Kjwrn, or Kjenn, see
p. 124) and the W. side of the larger J'illingsvand. The broad snow-clad
mountain to the left is the Lomshorung (5660 ft.). We cross the discharge of
the Fillingsvand. Among the interesting mosses occurring here are the
Rensdyrmosser (p. 126) , the Komosse or Hvidkrelle, and the golden yellow
Ouhkin. The Belula nana covers the ground so densely at places as to
form a kind of carpet. After a walk or ride of 3-4 hrs. from the Nysseter
we reach the W. end of the Lomshorung, where a halt is usually made.
To the W. lies the "Aurtje (3395 ft.), a fine sheet of water with a mag-
nificent mountain background. The path next skirts the W. slope of the
Horung for 1 hr., commanding a view of the mountain range on the S.
side of the Ottadal, including the Lomsegg and the Hestbrsepigge. About
2000 ft. below us lies the valley and its western ramification. This scene is
admirably calculated to convey to the traveller an idea of the immense
disproportion between the extent of the mountain wilds and that of the
cultivated land in Norway.

As we descend, the vegetation rapidly becomes richer (Linnaea
borealie abundant), and the temperature rises. On the slope to the right
is the first sseter on this side of the route. The path descends to the
Aura, the discharge of the Aursjjzr , which forms a fine waterfall. Pines
and afterwards birches re-appear. The first gaard on the slope of the
valley is Bahke. Among those that follow, one on the left has a taste-
fully carved portal. The rye and barley-fields here are watered by hand
with a kind of shovel ( Skjelrcek). In 1 hr. from the point of view above
mentioned we reach the bottom of the valley. (The ascent in the reverse
direction takes 2 hrs.) The path crosses the greenish glacier-fed Otta by
a long bridge, commanding a splendid view, and leads to the right to
the 0/2 hr.) Aanstad station (p. 162).

Remarks on Sjetek Life. In connection with the above route a few
remarks on sseters may not be unacceptable to the traveller. The sseter,
or mountain chalet, consists of two rooms at least, one for the use of
the inmates, and also for cooking purposes, with the Skorsten or fire-place
(also called Arne or Grue); the other (Melkebod) for dairy purposes. Over
the fire hangs an iron pot or kettle by a chain, and adjacent there is
usually a boiler built into the wall for the preparation of the cheese.
The whey (Myse, Brim) is made into cheese (Myseost), and is often
carried down to the valleys in drum-shaped tubs (Flasker, Krukker). The
sseters formerly had no chimneys, the smoke being allowed to find its
way out through an opening (Ljore) in the pyramidal shaped roof, which
at the same time afforded light. The cows (Keer) , often accompanied
by sheep (Sauer) and pigs (Svin), are usually sent up to the mountain
pastures (til Sailers) on St. John's Day (24th June), and remain there till
10th September. Women and girls, as a rule, are their sole attendants.
In singing their picturesque cattle-call , the sseter girls usually address
each cow by name (as Maieros, Belgeros, Lekros, Palmeros, Twrnros, the
syllable ros being a term of endearment specially applied to cows; also
Maanfrue, moon-lady, Krone, crown; Gulgave, gold-gift, etc.). The word
Kuss is also used to call cows and calves; Gisa is addressed to pigs,
Vulling to sheep, Sku to dogs, and Faale to horses. Among the dogs at
the Nysseter were Faust, Passop , Vcegter , Barfod , Spring, Freya, and
Bataer. Among the dairy utensils may be mentioned the Melkering or
Melkekolle (milk vessel), the Metkkar (skimmer), the Dal or Ember (pail),
the Krakk (milking stool), the Sil (milk-strainer, 'sile'), and the Vandsele
(water-pitcher).

Beyond Malmen the road passes Gaarden Einabu, with an an-
cient 'Bautasten'. King Olaf, 'the Saint', is said to have halted
at this gaard, in his flight from his kingdom in 1029, shortly

128 Route 16. SIKKILDALS-S^TER.

before the final struggle to regain his supremacy which termin-
ated with his death at Stiklestad near Levanger. The scenery is
bleak and wild.

13 Kil. Stuefloten, see p. 201. The Romsdal, the mountains of
which are now seen stretching far into the distance, begins here.
The remaining skyds-stations are (10 Kil.) Ormeim, (11 Kil.) Flat-
mark, (12 Kil.) Horgheim, and (14 Kil.) Nces; for details, 'see
pp. 201-199.

The whole of this part of the route, especially beyond Flatmark,
amply repays the pedestrian.

16. Routes from the Gudbrandsdal to Jotunheim.

Of the four routes to Jotunheim described in the following pages the
third is the most frequented, as it is used not only by travellers for
Jotunheim hut also hy those who wish to pay a passing visit to this
mountain-district on their way to the Sognefjord. The other three routes
are also inferior in interest. In addition to this it may he noted that a
strong wind on the Gjende (p. 140) or the Bygdin (p. 136) renders the
approach to the Jotunheim proper difficult or at least uncomfortable.

a. From Evisberg to Lake Gjende.

Two days at least, the night being spent in a sseter. A guide should
be hired at Kvisberg or Espedalsvand (3-4 kr. per day).

Kvisberg, the last station in the Gausdal, see p. 121. — A good
bridle-path leads from Kvisberg in 1 t/2 hr. to —

8 Kil. (pay for 1 1) Vasenden on the Espedalsvand (2460 ft.
above the sea-level; good quarters at A. C. Nielsen's), a lake,
8 Engl. M. long, for the passage of which the landlord procures a
boat (1 kr. each person ; for a single person 1 kr. 60 0.). At the N.
end of the lake we cross an 'Eid', beyond which is the Bredsje,
about 3 Engl. M. long, forming the geological continuation of the
Espedalsvand. Hans Halvorsen Flaate here provides a boatr(40 0.
each person ; 60 e. for one). In the vicinity are considerable de-
posits of nickel. We then cross another 'Eid', following the Espa,
and row across the lake of Olstappen to the new Inn of Iver Huge,
situated on a flat island near Vinstras Os. Another 'Eid' brings us
to the Slangse, which we also cross by boat, ascending through
wood on the opposite side to the Hinegledid Sater (a much shorter
way than the old route via the Finbele Sater and Finbel Haug).
We next proceed to the pretty Fly-Sater and along the S. bank of
the Sikkildals-Elv to the Sikkildals-Sceter (3445 ft.; accommodation).
If the wind is not too strong, we row across the two Sikkildals-
vande; otherwise we must walk along the N. bank of the smaller
lake, cross the 'Eid', and follow the S. bank of the larger lake, but
at a considerable height above the water, in order to avoid the
marshy ground. On the right rises the Sikkildalshorn (5660 ft.),
and on the left are the Oaapaapigge (6630 ft.). We next cross a hill
commanding a beautiful view of the mountains and glaciers to the

GRININGSDAL. 16. Route. 129

W., descend into the Sjodal, by a new path furnished with 'Var-
dei', and cross the Sjoa to Ojendesheim (3315 ft. ; p. 142).

b. From Bj-erlstad to Lake Gjende.

l'/2-2 Days, spending a night at the Griningsdals-Scelre.

Bjelstad in Hedalen , see p. 123. The path at first follows
the left (N.) bank of the Sjoa, and leads past Aaseng and Fjer-
dinggrcend to Oaarden Stene, to the N. of which is the Lus-S&ter,
commanding a magnificent distant view of Jotunheim , and well
deserving a visit. We next reach (2 hrs.) the Rinds-Sceter, at the
confluence of the Sjoa and the Rinden-Elv. We may now follow the
latter stream to (1 hr.) Randsvark (2400 ft. ; good sseters), and
cross the Graahe to the S. to the Riddersprang. According to tra-
dition, the 'Valdersridder' with his abducted bride , when pur-
sued by the 'Sandburidder', sprang across the rocky chasm. Or we
may reach the same point from the Rinds -Saeter by following
the Sjoa.

From the Riddersprang the route follows the right (E.) bank of
the Sjoa to the Salien-Sceter and the Stutgangen-Sceter. We now
quit the Sjodal and turn to the S.E., round the Stutgangen-Kamp,
and thus reach the Oriningsdal, with its sseters (3575 ft.; good
quarters).

The path leads round the large rocky knoll of Kampen (4585 ft.),
to the W. of the Griningsdal, to the Kamp-Sater and the Orasvik-
Sceter, at the N. end of the upper Sjodalsvand (2255 ft.). From
this point we may row to the Besstrand-Satre or Bes-Scetre (p. 142),
and walk thence to Gjendeosen ; or we may walk the whole way
thither, skirting the E. bank of the Sjodalsvand the first part of
the way. — Ojendesheim, see p. 143.

c. From Bredevangen to R#dsheim.

86 Kil. (54 Engl. M.). Road with fast stations (carriole 13 *f. per Kil.)
— This route is one of the principal approaches to Jotunheim and is also
traversed by travellers from the Gudbrandsdal to the Sognefiord (comp.
p. 128).

Bredevangen, see p. 123. — The route diverges from the Gud-
brandsdal road at Kringlen, to the N. of Bredevangen, crosses the
Laagen, and ascends the wooded and monotonous Ottadal.

1 1 Kil. Aasoren. We then pass the old farms of Tolfstad and
Bjernstad.

16 Kil. Snerle , where the road from Bjelstad i Hedal and
Storklevstad (p. 123) joins ours. The valley now expands, and the
snow-capped Lomseggen (p. 148) becomes visible in the distance.

7 Kil. S«rum (*/wn, comfortable), l/i hr. to the W. of which
is the curious old church of Vaage. The road to Nordre Snerle and
Laurgaard diverges just before we reach Serum (21 Kil. ; p. 124).

The road now follows the S. bank of a lake 36 Kil. (22 Engl. M.)
in length, called the Vaagevand as far as Andvord, and the Otta-

Baedekek's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 9

130 Route 16. CHURCH OF LOM. From Gudbrandsdal

vand farther on. Beyond the gaard of Volden, about 12 Kil. from
Serum, the road to the Besstrand Safer, described at p. 131, di-
verges to the right. A little farther on is the gaard of Storvik,
where tolerable quarters are obtainable. The Tesse-Elv, -which falls
into the lake near this point, descends from the Tessevand (p.131),
and on its way forms several fine cascades. The lowest fall may
be visited in i/2 nr- 5 and tne highest and most picturesque, the
*Oxefos, may be reached without a guide in iy2-2hrs. by following
the E. bank of the stream. Opposite, on the N. bank of the lake,
rises the Skardhe (5340 ft.).

20 Kil. Gardmo (good quarters, moderate charges).

15 Kil. Andvord (quarters at the Landhandler's) lies near the
influx of the Bcevra into the Vaagevand, which above this point is
generally called the Ottavand or Otta. A view is obtained of the
valleys of the Bsevra and Otta, separated by the huge Lomseggen. By
the bridge of Lorn the Baevra forms a waterfall, the milky colour
of which indicates that it descends from glaciers. The alluvial
deposits at the mouth of the stream have formed a considerable
delta, which divides the lake into two almost entirely separate
parts. — Just beyond the bridge, on an old moraine at the foot of
the Lomseggen, is the *Church of Lorn (1290 ft.), one of the ancient
Norwegian Stavekirker, built entirely of resinous pine-wood, and dat-
ing from the 13th or 14th century (comp. p. 22). The architectural
forms recall the Byzantine style. The once open roof is now con-
cealed by a flat ceiling(17th cent.), and there are other modern dis-
figurements. The Pulpit, with its sounding-board, and a sili.Flag
with a hand holding a sickle (Ljaa) are noteworthy. Hr. Brodahl,
the pastor, who often obligingly shows the church himself, states that
the flag was presented by a neighbouring farmer who introduced the
system of irrigation many years ago. This must have been a great
boon to the community, as rain is scarce in this district (comp.
p. 164). The curious dragons' heads on the outside of the church,
the scale-like roof, the central tower, and the N. portal should
also be noticed. The external woodwork is coated with tar, which
has become as hard as stone. — The churchyard contains interest-
ing Tombstones of 'Klasbersten', or soapstone, in the form of crosses
encircled with rings. — An old Stabbur at the Prsestegaard , or
parsonage, is also worthy of inspection.

From Andvord to the Qeirangerfjord, see R. 18.

The road to Redsheim now turns to the S.W. and ascends the
Bavradal. At one point called the *Staberg, where there is a mill,
the ravine is extremely narrow, and huge blocks of rock have fallen
into it from the hills above. Higher up, the valley expands, but
at the same time becomes stony and sterile. The narrow road runs
close to the bed of the stream at places. In the background rise
the Galdheer (7300 ft.), which conceal the Galdhepig and the
Juvbrce, forming a most imposing mass of ice and snow. On the

to Jotunheim. FUGLSjETER. 16. Route. 131

right we pass the Gaard Suleim, with a waterfall, and on the left
the falls of the Glaama and the hamlet (Grand) of Glaamstad.
17 Kil. Redsheim, see p. 148.

d. From Storvik to Lake Gjende.

l'/2-2 Days. The pedestrian route described below is preferable to the
new road, on which there are no skyds-stations. The night may be spent
at a sseter.

From the Gudhrandsdal to Serum and Storvik, see p. 129. —
From Storvik the Footpath ascends the right (E.) bank of the
Tesse-Elv to the Ringnces-Sceter, thence to the S.W. to the *Oxefos,
or Endinfos, and across the river to the Nord-Satre at the N.W. end
of the Tessevand (3010 ft.), a lake 6 Engl. M. long, abounding in
trout, which is said to have been presented by St. Olaf to the
inhabitants of Gardmo (p. 130). We row to the Naaver-Sceter at the
S. end of the lake, whence the route mentioned at p. 146 leads
through the Smaadal to the Visdal.

The path now traverses the disagreeable marshes formed by the
Smaadela at its influx into the lake. A horse may possibly be ob-
tained at the Naaver-Saeter to enable the traveller to cross the swamp
dryshod; if not , he must keep as far as possible to the right in
order to avoid it. Beyond this point the path leads to the S. to the
(6 hrs. from Storvik) —

Fugl-Sceter (3145 ft. ; good quarters). If time permit, the trav-
eller may ascend the Fuglelw (5160 ft.), in order to obtain a view
of the Jotunheim Mountains.

About 3 Kil. to the S. of the Fugl-Sffiter we reach the pictur-
esque, pine-clad Sjodal. Our route, steep at first, follows the left
(W.) bank of the Sjoa, and about 4 Kil. farther on reaches the
Veoli-Sceter (3496 ft.), on the N. side of the Veodal.

The neighbouring * Veoknappen (4760ft.) commands an admirable survey
of the Glittertind, Nautgardstind, etc. — An uninteresting route, chiefly
used by reindeer-stalkers, leads through the Veodal and crosses the Skaul-
flyene (5870 ft.), between the Glittertind and the Veobrfe ; it then descends
bv the right bank of the Skanta-Elv to the Nedre Stilkeims-Swler in the
Visdal (p. 146).

The route now descends into the Veodal, crosses the Veo-Elv
by a bridge, and reaches the (l'/2 nr- from the Veoli-S;eter) Hind-
Sater, near the influx of the Store Hinden into the Sjoa (see below).

The Road, as indicated at p. 130, diverges to the left from the
Bredevangen and Redsheim road just beyond the gaard of Volden,
passes the Falls of the Tesse-Elv (see above; right), the Ringnces-Scetre
(left), and the Lemonsje (right), and reaches the Kalven-Sceter, at
the S. end of this lake. It then descends to the valley of the Rinda
and the Randsvcerk Setters (2395 ft. ; accommodation), crosses the
watershed between the Rinda and the Sjoa, and ascends through the
valley of thelatter to the Hind-Sater, where it is joined by the above-
described footpath. It next reaches (I1/2 hr.) the Ruslien-Scttre
(p. 142). Thence to Gjendesheim, see p. 143.

132

17. Jotunheim.

Comp. the Map (scale 1 : 500,000).

A map of the same district on a larger scale is published by A. Cam-
mermeyer of Christiania ('Lomme-Reisekart over Norge, So. V, Lorn,
Vestre-Slidre, Borgund, Lyster'; Scale, 1:175,000; price lkr.) A still
better map, which does not, however, comprise the whole district, is bec-
tion 30D (Galdhtfppigen) of the Topographical Map mentioned in bection VII
of the Introduction (1 : 100,000).

The greater part of Norway, as has been repeatedly mentioned,
consists mainly of a vast table-land, descending abruptly at the
margins , rising occasionally into rounded summits , and rarely
intersected by valleys. In marked contrast, however, to this un-
picturesque formation, that of several districts presents the
'Alpine' characteristic of well-defined mountain-ranges furrowed
with frequent valleys. The most important of these districts are
the Lyngenfjord in Tromse> Amt (p. 253), the Sendmere (p. 173),
and the region bounded by the Sognefjord on the W. and the pla-
teaux of Valders and the Gudbrandsdal on the S. and N.E. re-
spectively. The last was explored for the first time by Keilhau in
1820 and named by him Jotunfjeldene, or the 'Giant Mountains',
but is now generally known as Jotunheim, a name given to it by
subsequent 'Jotunologists' (chiefly Norwegian students) as a remi-
niscence of the 'frost giants' in the Edda.

The mountain - peaks of Jotunheim (called Tinder, Pigge,
Home, and Nabber, while the rounded summits are named Heter)
are all over 5900 ft., several are upwards of 6550, while the
Galdhepig (p. 147) and the Glittertind (p. 145) exceed 8200 ft. in
height. The high Alps are much loftier (Mont Blanc, 15,784 ft.),
but are generally surpassed by the Jotunheim mountains in ab-
ruptness. The plateaux extending between the lofty peaks are
almost entirely covered with snow, the snow-line here being about
5580 ft. (in Switzerland 8850 ft.). Huge glaciers (Braer , the
smaller being called Huller, holes) descend from these masses of
snow, but without penetrating into the lower valleys as they do in
Switzerland. The mountain-basins which occur here frequently,
enclosed by precipitous sides rising to 1600 ft. or more, are known
as Botner. A peculiarity of the valleys , which with a few ex-
ceptions, lie upwards of 3300 ft. above the sea-level (;'. e. higher
than the forest-zone) , is that they rarely terminate in a pass, but
intersect the whole mountain , gradually rising on each side to a
'.Band' or series of lakes where no distinct culminating point is
observable. The interest of the scenery of Jotunheim is greatly
enhanced by its three imposing lakes.

The Norwegian Turist-Forening, which began its operations in
1868 (comp. Introd. iv), has rendered invaluable service to trav-
ellers by the construction of paths, bridges, and refuge-huts, and
by the appointment of competent guides. Several private individ-
uals have followed their good example by erecting other refuges

JOTUNHEIM. 17. Route. 133

(dignified with the name of 'hotels'), so that travelling here is now
attended with no serious difficulty or hardship. The huts generally
contain clean beds and a supply of preserved meats ('Hermetik'),
beer, wine, and other refreshments at moderate charges (bed and
food 3-4 kr. per day), but in some cases the broad bed must be
shared with a fellow-traveller. As members of the Turist-Foren-
ing , who are recognisable by their club-button , always have a
preference over other travellers , those who intend, to explore this
region thoroughly are recommended to enrol themselves at Christi-
ania, Bergen, Throndhjem, or Fagernas (4 kr. per annum, and
80 o. additional for the 'Klubknap').

On some of the excursions the only accommodation as yet
procurable is at the S£eters and 'Faeboder' or 'Faelajger', kept by
good-natured cowherds (Fakarle or Driftekarle) who regale the
traveller with 'Fladbred', milk, cheese, and butter, and can gener-
ally provide him with a tolerable bed {i^fe-l kr. per day for bed
and food). Comp. the remarks on Saeter Life at p. 127.

The chief Points of Interest in the Jotunheim centre around
the W. end of the Bygdin-Sja and the Gjende-Sje, and are most
conveniently visited from Eidsbugarden (p. 138) and the Ojende-
bod (p. 140). Besides these there are several places which com-
mand admirable views of the Horunger (pp. 153, 159); lastly
the Vtladal (p. 155), the Leirdal (p. 158), the Visdal (p. 145),
and the Galdhepig (p. 147). Unless the traveller is prepared for
a somewhat rough expedition with 8-10 hrs. walking daily, he
should content himself with walking or riding to Eidsbugarden,
ascending the Skinegg (p. 139), and visiting the ice-lake in the
Melkedal (p. 152).

The following are the best Starting Points for a tour in Jo-
tunheim : — Skogstad and Nystuen (p. 96), from which Eidsbu-
garden is a short day's walk only ; Aardal (p. 101) on the Sogne-
fjord, whence we proceed in 7-8 hrs. to the Vettisfos (p. 102), the
starting-point of the routes mentioned at pp. 154, 155 ; and lastly
Skjolden on the Sognefjord (comp. p. 158). On the journeys de-
scribed in R. 16 , however, the traveller must be prepared for
frequent delays, with the exception of R. c, from Bredevangen
to Redsheim (p. 131). The time occupied in crossing Lake Bygdin
(p. 136) also greatly protracts the route from Fagerlund, which
is otherwise an interesting approach to Jotunheim (p. 134).

The Equipment required by the traveller is similar to that used by
Alpine mountaineers, but everything should if possible be even more
durable, as he will frequently have to Iford torrents, wade through
marshes, and walk over very rough stony ground (Ur) for hours in
succession. Heavy luggage should be left behind, as it hampers the tra-
veller's movements , besides requiring an additional horse for its trans-
port. The Guides are generally very inferior to those of Switzerland or
the Eastern Alps, and but few of them possess an ice-axe (Jsexe), ropes,
or other equipments for a glacier-tour. The usual fee is 4 kr. per day,
but the charges for the different expeditions are given in each case. The
guide is not bound to carry more than 2 Bismer pounds (22 lbs.) of lug-

134 Route 11. ROGNE. Jotunheim.

gage, and even this weight he carries very unwillingly. In the longer
tours, therefore, the traveller must engage a porter, who receives about
two-thirds of a guide's fee. No charge is made for the return-journey.
In the hire paid for a horse the services of an attendant are never in-
cluded, but must be paid for separately; if he is a full-grown man (voxen
mand) he receives the same fee as the guide.

The distances in the following tours are calculated throughout for
vigorous and active travellers. It should be borne in mind that the
walking in Jotunheim , owing to the want of roads, is much more ex-
hausting than among the Swiss mountains; so that travellers should not
attempt to do too much in one day.

In accordance with the standard Norwegian rule of travel , which
applies specially to Jotunheim, horses, guides, and boats should always be
ordered in good time, and if possible on the day before they are wanted.

a. From Fagerluud in Valders to Raufjordsheini, and
across Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugarden.

88 Kil. (55 Engl. M.). A journey of two days: 1st. Drive to (45 Kil.)
Beito, the last skyds-station ('fast') ; walk to Raufjordsheini in 3'/2 hrs. —
2nd. Ascend the Bitihom early in the morning, 3-4 hrs. there and back;
row across Lake Bygdin to Eidsbugarden in 8 hrs.

The following outline of a tour including the finest scenery of Jo-
tunheim may also be given here : — 1st Day. From Fagerlund to
Kaufjordsheim , and ascend the Bitihom in the evening. — 2nd. Row to
the Nybod (p. 136), and walk through the Thorfinsdal and Svartdal to the
Ojendtbod (p. 141) on Lake Gjende. — 3rd. Ascend the Memurutunge with
a guide, and walk in the afternoon to Eidsbugarden (p. 139). — 4th. As-
cend the Skinegg (p. 138), returning by Tvindehoug on Lake Tyin (a short
day). — 5th. Proceed with guide through the Melkedal to Skogadalsbeen.
— 6th. With guide across the Keiseren to Forlun (p. 158), or through the Utla-
dal (p. 157) to the Vettisfos.

Fagerlund in Valders , see p. 93. — The road to the district
of 0stre-Slidre diverges to the N.W. from the Laerdalseren road
and enters the valley of the 0stre-SUdre Elv. It is nearly level
at first , but afterwards ascends rapidly through a wood. To the
left, below, lies the Scelbo-Fjord, high above which stand several
gaards. In the distance rise snow-mountains. Several gaards and
on the right the loftily situated church of Skrutvold are passed.
Below the road, farther on, is the Voldbo-Fjord, at the N. end of
which lies the church of Voldbo.

17 Kil. Kogne (*Inn, often full in summer) lies just beyond
the church of that name. To theE. rise Mellene, a mountain range,
the W. summit of which is the 0iangenshmt affording a fine survey
of the Bitihorn, Mugnafjeld, and other mountains (ascent 3-
3'/2 hrs. ; guide 1 kr. 60 ».).

From Rogne across the Slidreaas to Fosheim (22 Kil.), by a good road,
see p. 94.

The road crosses the Vinde-ELv, which descends to the Voldbo-
fjord and forms a waterfall higher up. It next skirts the Haegge-
fjord, and then ascends steeply to Hagge, with its old timber-
built *Church (p. 22). At about 13 Kil. from Rogne we pass Nor-
thorp, a genuine Norwegian gaard. To the left, farther on, are the
Dalsfjord and the Merstafjord , which a river connects with each
other and with the Hedali fjord.

Jotunheim. RAUFJORDSHEIM. 17. Route. 135

16 Kil. Kjek (*Station). Farther on, to the left, are the He-
dalsfjord and Lake 0iangen. Fine view of the lake, with the Stelle-
fjeld, Mugnatind, and Bitihom (see below).

12 Kil. Beito (2460 ft. ; *Inn, unpretending), the last skyds-
station. On Sundays the neighbouring peasantry assemble here
to dance their national 'Springdans', accompanied by the strains
of the 'Norske Harp'.

The path from Beito to the Raufjord Hotel (guide ll/% kr. ;
comp. Map, p. 132) leads to the N.W., and is at first nearly level,
but afterwards ascends steeply. At (1 hr.) the top of the hill is a
marshy plateau enclosed by mountains, the Mugnatind to the W.,
and the precipitous Bitihom (see below). In 1 hr. more we reach
the Smerhul-Sater. [By making a digression of 2-3 hrs., with a
guide, the traveller may now ascend the Bitihom, via the Biti-
horn-S«ter(3460 ft.), but the excursion is easier from the Raufjord;
see below.] The path ascends steeply for 25 min. more. Extensive
view towards the S. ; quite near us, on the left, rises the Biti-
hom. The path now descends towards the N., close to the preci-
pitous rocks (echo). After a walk of 1 hr. across marshy ground,
passing round the Bitihom, we reach the houses on the Raufjord,
which are inhabited in summer only. The northernmost of these
is called the —

Raufjordsheim (3575 ft.), containing six beds, and affording
tolerable food (inferior to the club-huts ; charges the same). Guide
from this point to Hestevoldene l1/^, t0 Nybod 2, to Gjendesheim
4, Besse-Saetre 4y2, Eidsbugarden 6 kr. — The water of the Rau-
fjord, an arm of Lake Bygdin, is strongly impregnated with iron,
tinging the stones on its bank with its reddish colour (whence the
name, raw being the same as raud or red, 'red'). This desolate re-
gion, in which several snow-mountains are visible, is beyond the
zone of trees and resembles an Arctic landscape.

The Ascent of the Bitihorn from Raufjordsheim takes
3-4 hrs. , there and back (guide unnecessary). The traveller as-
cends the W. slope the whole way to the top. Several swamps
near the beginning of the ascent are avoided by keeping to the
left as far as possible. The summit soon becomes visible, serving
as a guide. For an hour the route traverses 'Rab' or ground co-
vered with underwood (juniper- bushes, dwarf birches, and Arctic
willows) and the soft soil peculiar to the Norwegian mountains,
and for another hour it ascends somewhat steeply over rock. Near
the top is a cleft with perpendicular sides, containing snow and
ice at the bottom.

The *Bitihorn (5270 ft.) rises on the boundary between Jotun-
heim and the great plateau extending to the E. of that region. To
the W. we survey an imposing Alpine scene, and to the E. a lofty
table-land diversified with large lakes and a few peaks, while Lake
Bygdin lies immediately below, on the N.W. side of the Bitihom.

136 Route 77. NYBOD. Jotunheim.

This mountain may therefore be called the 'Rigi' of Norway. To
the W. rise the mountains near Lake Bygdin, conspicuous among
which are the Kalvaahegda and Thorfinstinder ; more to the left,
the Uranaastind, the Langeskavlen, the Horunger, and the Kolde-
dalstinder. Towards the E. rise the isolated summits of Skaget and
Mellene, and below us lie the Vinstervande. To the N. we ob-
serve the grey Valdersfly , and farther distant, to the N. of Lake
Gjende, the Beshe and Nautgardstind. To the S. are Lake 0ian-
gen, the valley of 0stre Slidre , and the Mugnatind, Suletind, and
other mountains.

From Raufjoedsheim to Eidsbugarden by boat in 7-8 hrs.,
including stoppages (for 1, 2, 3 persons with two rowers 8 kr.
40 »., 10 kr., 12 kr. respectively; to Nybod only, 4 kr., 4 kr. 40,
5 kr. 20 ». ; those who hire a guide here may utilise him as a
rower, so that one other only need be taken). Crossing the Rau-
fjord, the boat soon passes through the Bygdinsund and enters
*Lake Bygdin (3575 ft.) , the largest of the three lakes of Jotun-
heim, about 15 Engl. M. in length fromE. to W., 1-2M. in breadth,
and at places 700 ft. deep. On the N. side it is bounded by lofty
mountains, whose precipitous slopes afford excellent pasturage. The
large herds of cattle which graze here in summer are sent to the
Ohristiania market in September. The S. bank is lower and less
picturesque. Storms sometimes render the navigation of the lake
impracticable. The walk along the N. bank to Eidsbugarden (10-
12 hrs.) is extremely wearisome, though all danger has vanished
since the Tourist Club improved the path and bridged the streams.

The boat skirts the N. bank. On the right we first observe the
Sund-Sater and the Breilaupa which descends from the Kalvaa-
hegda (see below). About 4 Kil. farther on is the 'faelaeger' of
Hestevolden, whence the * Kalvaahegda (7160 ft.), affording a mag-
nificent view of the Jotunheim mountains, may be ascended.

We next pass the deep Thorfinsdal (see below) , with remains
of ancient moraines at its entrance. At the base of the Thorfins-
tind we then reach the Langedals-Sater , and near it the Nybod,
a shooting-lodge belonging to Hr. Scehli , a 'Storthingsmand', of
which the neighbouring cowherd has the key.

From the Nybod we may ascend the huge "Thorfinstind (about
7050 ft. ; 7 hrs., there and back), the jagged crest of which is called the
Brudefelge ('bridal procession'). Fine survey of Lake Bygdin and half of
Valders, and particularly of the other Thorfinstinder to the N., the Svart-
dalspigge, and the Knutshulstind (p. 144). This ascent should be made
in the morning, to avoid falling stones.

Fkom the Nybod to Lake Gjende there are two routes. One leads
to the N.W. through the Langedal, passing the Langedalstjcem, and cross-
ing the glacier (6200 ft.) between the Sletmarkhe (7170 ft.) on the left and
the Svartdalspigge (7120 ft.) on the right into the Vesle Aadal. Guide 2 kr.,
but rarely to be found at the Nybod. The expedition is very grand, but
somewhat toilsome. — A preferable and comparatively easy route (guide
2 kr., but unnecessary) leads to Lake Gjende in 4-5 hrs. through the Thor-
finsdal and the Svartdal. It ascends steeply at first on the W. side of the
Thorfinsdals-Elv, commanding a view of the whole valley, which is sep-

Jotunheim. EIDSBUGARDEN. 17. Route. 137

arated from the Svartdal to the N. by a iBand\ or lofty plain with a series
of lakes (p. 134). The path then follows the E. side of the valley. To
the left, farther on, we obtain a superb view of the Thorfinshul, a basin
formed by the Thorfinstinder -, before us rise the three Kmitshulstinder,
which enclose the Knutshul, but the highest (8310 ft.) of them is not vi-
sible. Adjoining the northernmost are several peaks of Alpine character.
The highest part of the route is reached at the S. end of the long 'Tjsern'
(tarn), to the left, whence we perceive the mountains to the rl. of Lake
Gjende, particularly the pointed Semraeltind; to the E. the mountain
with a sharply cut outline is the Leirungskampen. Beyond the second,
and smaller lake (4750 ft.) and a glacier descending from the left, we enter
the Svartdal, of which there is no definite boundary, and follow the right
(E.) bank of the Svartdela ; to the left tower the imposing Svartdalspigge
(7170 ft.). We then cross to the left bank. We soon reach the huge pre-
cipice descending to Lake Gjende, called Gjendebrynet, through which the
$vartd0la has worn a deep gorge (Svartdalsglupet). We may either follow
the latter from 'Varde' to 'Varde', or (better) ascend a ridge covered with
loose stones to the left to the "Svartdalsaksel (5855 ft.), which commands
an admirable survey of the whole N. side of Jotunheim. To the N.W. are
the Melkedalstind (below which lies the Grisletjsern), and the Raudalstind-
er, Smerrstabtinder, and Skarvedalstind ; to the N. the Semmeltind, the Me-
murutind, Tjukningssuen, and Nautgardstind ; to the E. the Besh# and Bes-
egg; while at our feet lie the dark-green Gjende with the Gjendetunge
and Memurutunge. (From this point the Svartdalspigge, 7170ft., may be as-
cended without difficulty.) We now descend to the W., below the Lange-
dalsbrse, at first somewhat steeply over loose stones (caution necessary),
and then over soft grass. The route then descends by the course of the
glacier-stream into the Vesle-Aadal, whence it soon reaches the Gjende-
bod (p. 140). On reaching Lake Gjende, the traveller may prefer to shout
for a boat to convey him across the water (10 min).

Continuing our voyage on Lake Bygdin , we next pass the
Langedals-Elv and then the Oaldeberg, where there is a small un-
inhabited hut. From the hill falls the Galdebergsfos. On the S.
side of the lake rises Dryllenesset (4865 ft.). Rounding the pre-
cipitous rocks of the Galdeberg, we observe to the right above us the
Galdebergstind, and facing us the Langeskavlen (or Rusteggen) with
the Uranaastind (7040 ft.), presenting one of the sublimest spec-
tacles in Jotunheim. On the right next opens the valley of the
Tolorma (Heistakka), which forms a waterfall, with the Orashorung
(or Snehulstind, 7145 ft.) in the background. To the S.W. rise the
Koldedalstinder (6700 ft.), and to the S. the Skinegg. Looking
back , we observe the three peaks of the Sletmarkhe. The lake
owes its milky colour to the Melkedela , a genuine glacier-brook.
After a row from the Raufjordsheim of about 6 hrs. in all, we reach
the timber-built —

Eidsbugar den , or Eidsbud, situated at the W. end of Lake
Bygdin, about 100 ft. above the water , where the accommodation
is similar to that afforded by the club-huts (same charges). This
is the most beautifully situated 'hotel' in Jotunheim , and is the
starting-point for several magnificent excursions.

The ascent of the *Skinegg (ca. 5085 ft.) from Eidsbugarden
takes IY2 nr- (or there and back 24/2 hrs. ; no guide required).
We cross the stream descending from the Eid between lakes Byg-
din and Tyin, and ascend straight to the northern peak, avoiding

138 Route 11. URANAASTIND. Jotunheim.

the soft snow-flelds as much as possible. (The southern peak is
apparently, but not really, the higher.) The view from the sum-
mit, where rooks afford welcome shelter, is justly considered one
of the finest in Jotunheim, though shut out on the E. side by the
higher 'Egg' (edge, ridge) of which the Skinegg is a spur.

To the S. we survey the Tyin and the whole of the Fillefjeld, with
the Stugunjjs near Nystuen and" the majestic Suletind (5810 ft.). Of more
absorbing interest are the mountains to the W. and N. , where Tys-
eggen, the Gjeldedalstinder (7090 ft.) and Koldedalstinder (6700 ft.-, Falke-
tind, Stplsnaastind) with their vast mantles of snow, and farther distant
the Horunger (beginning with the Skagast0lstind on the left, and ending
with the Styggedalstind to the right) rise in succession. Next to these
are the Fleskedalstinder, the Langeskavlen, the Uranaastind (7040 ft.),
with a huge glacier on its S. side, the Melkedalstinder, the (irashorung,
and other peaks. To the N. rise the mountains on the N.W. side of Lake
Gjende, and still more prominent are the Sletmarkh0, Galdebergstind,
and Thorfinstinder on Lake Bygdin. Of that lake itself a small part of the
W. end only is visible.

To Tvindehoug on Lake Tyin (p. 139) we may descend direct from
the Skinegg towards the S.W. — A circuit to the top of the Skinegg,
down to Tvindehoug, and back to Eidsbugarden may be made in 5-6 hrs.

The Ascent of Langeskavlen, there and back, takes half-a-day
(guide necessary, 2 kr.). The route ascends the course of the Melkedela
(p. 151) , and , instead of turning to the right towards the Melkedal,
leads to the left into a side-valley, where we keep as far as possible to
the right. The bare summit of Langeskavlen (about 5900 ft.) towers above
masses of snow. The view embraces the mountains seen to the W. of
the Skinegg , to which we are now nearer , and also the whole of Lake
Bygdin as far as the Bitihorn.

The Ukanaastind (6-7 hrs. from Eidsbugarden, or a whole day there
and back ; guide necessary, 4 kr.) is ascended partly by the route to the
Langeskavlen, which after a time we leave to the W. in order to ascend
the extensive Vranaasbrce. We then cross that glacier to the Brceskard,
whence we look down into the Skogadal to the W. (p. 156). Lastly an
ascent on the N. side of about 800 ft. more to the summit of the "Ura-
naastind (7035 ft.), which is also free from ice or snow. This is the highest
E. point of the Uranaase, the W. end of which also presents an imposing
appearance when seen from Skogadalsbuen (p. 156). The extensive view
vies with that from the Galdherpig (p. 147). Towards the E. the Ura-
naastind descends precipitously into the Uradal (p. 156). To the S. it
sends forth two glaciers , the Uranaasbrse , already mentioned , and the
Melkedalsbrce , the E. arm of which descends into the Melkedal (p. 151),
while the W. arm, divided again by the Melkedalspigge, descends partlv
into the Melkedal, and partly to the Skogadal (p. 156). Experienced
mountaineers may descend the mountain bv the last-named arm of the
glacier, which has to be traversed for 1 hr. ■ the lower part onlv is fur-
rowed with crevasses (Sprwkker).

b. From Skogstad and Nystuen to Tvindehoug and
Eidsbugarden.

30 Kil. Bridle Path (horse to Tvindehoug 4 kr.). Some travellers,
however, will prefer to walk to (2>/ihrs.) Lake Tyin, row to (12 Kil ) Tvin-
dehoug, and walk thence to (6 Kil.) Eidsbugarden.

Skogstad and Nystuen on the Fillefjeld (see p. 96), lying on the
great route through Valders to the Sognefjord, are favourite start-
ing-points for Jotunheim (horses and guides at both). By the
Opdalstele, the home of the guide and boatman Knut Jarstad
about halfway between these stations, the route to Lake Tyin di-

Jotunheim. TVINDEHOUG. 17. Route. 139

verges to the N. and in li/2 hr. crosses the hill which separates it
from the district of Valders. Fine view from the top of the hill of
the snowy Gjeldedalstind , the Koldedalstind , and the Stalsnaas-
tind to the N.W. of the lake.

Lake Tyin (3630 ft.), 10 Engl. M. long, 1-2 M. broad, and at
places over 300 ft. deep, with a wide hay at the W. end from which
the Aardela issues, is a beautiful Alpine lake, the banks of which,
like those of the other lakes of Jotunheim are uninhabited, except
by a few cowherds in summer, the most important of whose 'Fse-
laeger' are marked in the map (p. 132). At the S. end, where the
lake is reached, lies the unpretending inn of Jotunstelen, with six
clean beds. Boat to Tvindehoug (for 1,2, 3 persons with 1 rower
2 kr. 40, 2 kr. 80, 3 kr. 20 0. ; with 2 rowers 3 kr. 60, 4 kr. 40,
5 kr. 20 0.). On every side rise lofty mountains. Above the Fse-
lager of Maalnas towers the pyramidal Uranaastind (p. 140), and
to the 8. rises the Suletind on the Fillefjeld.

Tvindehoug, a large club-hut of the Turist-Forening (kept by
6. Skattebo~), is one of the chief stations of the Jotunheim guides.
Ascent of the Skinegg (p. 138) 172-2 hrs. ; guide hardly necessary.

The Koldedalstind or Falketind (6700 ft.), to the N.W. of Lake Tyin,
is most conveniently ascended from Tvindehoug (8-10 hrs. ; guide 4 kr.).
We row across the lake, ascend the valley of the Koldedela to the foot
of the Falketind, and then climb, most of the way over glaciers, to the
summit. The view is one of the wildest in Jotunheim. The Falketind
was ascended in 1820 by Prof. Keilhau and Chr. Boeck, and was the first
of the Jotunheim mountains ever climbed. The dangerous descent to the
Koldedal (p. 154) should not be attempted. — From Tvindehoug to the
Vettisfos through the Fleskedal and Koldedal, see p. 154.

Skirting the lake , and then crossing the low Eid or isthmus
which separates lakes Tyin and Bygdin , we reach Eidsbugarden
(p. 137) in about 2 hrs. more.

c. From Eidsbugarden to the Gjendebod on Lake Gjende.

From Eidsbugarden to the Gjendebod, 4-5 hrs.; guide (hardly neces-
sary) 2 kr. 40 0., horse 4 kr. (A still finer route than the present is that
already described, from the Nybod through the Thorfinsdal, pp. 136, 137.)
On the same afternoon ascend the Memurutunge and return by boat from
the Memurubod.

Eidsbugarden, see p. 137. We take the road along the N. bank
of Lake Bygdin, cross (V4 M.) the rapid Melkedela (p. 151) by a
narrow wooden bridge, and reach in about 3/4 hr. more the Tolorm-
bod, at the mouth of the Tolorma or Heistakka, which point may
also be reached by boat (with one rower, for 1, 2, 3 persons, 80 0.,
1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 0.). Grand retrospective view of the snow-
mountains to the W. (comp. p. 135).

The path ascends the left bank of the Tolorma , on the W.
slope of the Oaldebergstind, and mounts the Oksdalslw, crossing
(1^2 hr.) a brook which descends from that mountain. The route
then leads somewhat steeply up the Ojelhe to the N.E. to the
plateau of Grsnneberg. To the left rises the Orashorung (7145 ft.)

140 Route 17. LAKE GJENDE. Jotunheim.

with the Snehul, and to the right the huge Sletmarkhe (7170 ft.),
the glacier of which descends into the Vesle Aadal. Having crossed
the Granneberg, we descend rapidly to the N.E. into the Vesle
Aadal, which is bounded on the N. by the Gjendetunge, and follow
the brook down to Lake Gjende. Here we turn to the N., pass
round the Gjendetunge, and cross by a new bridge to the —

Gjendebod, a well-equipped club-hut, situated at the entrance
to the Store Aadal , and at the foot of the precipices of the Me-
murutunge. It accommodates 20 persons ; and the moderate char-
ges are fixed by tariff (good wine). Guide : Erik Slaalien. — Boat
to the Memurubod with 1 rower for 1, 2, or 3 pers., 2 kr., 2 kr.
40, 3 kr. 20 »., with 2 rowers 3kr. 60, 4kr., 4 kr. 80 e. ; to Gjen-
desheim with 1 rower 3 kr. 20, 4kr., 5kr. 20, with 2 rowers 6kr. ,
6 kr. 80 »., 8 kr. (also for 4 pers.). The second rower should not be
dispensed with , though his place may be supplied by the guide.

*Lake Gjende (3310 ft.), 11 Engl. M. long, i/2-l M. in width,
and 480 ft. deep at the deepest part, extends from W. to E., where
the Sjoa, a tributary of the Laagen, issues from it. It presents
a still more Alpine character than LakeBygdin. On both sides, it
is enclosed by perpendicular mountains, among which the Beshe
(7585 ft.), on the N. or'Solside', and the Knutshulstind (8310 ft.),
a.n&Svartdalspig(7l7Qft.), on the S. or 'Bagside', are the loftiest.
These peaks, however, cannot be seen from the Gjendebod, but
become visible as we ascend the Store Aadal. There are but few
places on the banks of the lake where landing or walking for any
distance is practicable. The colour of the water is green, especially
when seen from a height. The lake is fed by a very small number
of wild glacier-torrents. Storms often render the lake dangerous
for boating for days together, and the N. wind sometimes divides
in the middle of the lake and blows at the same time towards the
E. and towards the W. The lake is also often covered with fog
(Ojendeskaven).

The Ascent op the Memubctunge takes about 4 hrs., or including
the descent to the Memurubod 6 hrs. at least (guide 2 kr.). From the
Gjendebod we may either make the extremely steep ascent to the E. by
the BuUelieger or the Hegslwelefte (dangerous without a guide), or follow
the bridle-path through the Store Aadal tor about l'/z hr., ascending
the left bank of the stream, and then ascend rapidly to the right (prac-
ticable for riding; see below). The "Memurutunge, a hilly plateau
about 5020 ft. in height , with snow-fields , small lakes, and interesting
Alpine flora, forms a kind of mountain-peninsula, bounded on the W. by
the Store Aadal, on the S. by the Gjende, and on the E. and N. by the
Memuru-Elv. Farther to the N. it is encircled by lofty snow-mountains.

The View is one of the most renowned in Norway. To the S. are
the Knutshulstind with its deep 'Hul' , and the Svartdalspig, between
which lies the deep Svartdal; then the Langedal and the Sletmarkhjer; to
the W. rise the pointed Melkedalstinder and Raudalstinder, prominent
among which is the Skarvdalstind, all near the Raudal. To the N.W. lies
the Langevand with the Smtfrstabtind, the Kirke, and the Uladalstinder.
To the N. the Hinaatjernh*?, Memurutinder, and Tjukningssuen. To the E.
the Besh0 and other peaks. — Instead of returning by the same route, it
is far more interesting to traverse the Memurutunge to its E. end and then

Jotunheim. RAUDDAL. 17. Route. 141

descend the steep slope to the Memurubod in the valley of that name. In
this case a boat must be ordered before starting to meet the traveller at
this point.

From the Gjendebod we may also ascend the "Gjendetunge (5095
ft.), which commands the same view as the Memurutunge, with the ad-
dition of a survey of the whole lake. We cross the bridge to the W.,
follow the path on the W. bank of the river to the N. for about '/2hr.,
and then ascend steeply to the left.

The ascent of the Knutshulstind (8310 ft.) from Gjendebod presents
no great difficulty (8 hrs.). We cross the lake and ascend the Svartdals-
glupet (p. 137) to the Svartdal, whence we climb to the E. to the summit.
The first ascent was made in 1875.

From the Gjendebod to Skogadalsb#en thkough the Eaudal, 10-12
hrs. (guide to the Guridals-Sseter 8 kr. 80 0., to Berge near Fortun 16-18kr.).
If the Muradn sseter in the Utladal (p. 157) is open, which may be learned at
the Gjendebod, the night may be spent there, in whichever direction the
route is taken, though the club-hut at Skogadalsbtfen offers more comfort-
able quarters. (Instead of the Raudal route, the traveller may prefer that
through the Store Aadal, the Gravdal, and the Utladal, ll/2 day , a night
being spent on the Leirvand. Guide to Berge 10 kr. ; horse, with side-
saddle if desired, 4 kr. per day, and as much more to the attendant.)

The route leads up the Store Aadal on the right bank as far as a
C/s hr.) waterfall formed by a brook descending from the Grisletjsern.
It then ascends rapidly to the left. Farther on, it crosses the brook and
leads on the N. side of the Grisletjwm and the following tarns to the RaudaU-
houg (3 hrs. from the Gjendebod), where the Raudal begins. This grand,
but unpicturesque valley, with its almost uninterrupted series of lakes,
lies to the N. of and parallel with the Melkedal (p. 151). The valley is nearly
level, and there is no distinguishable watershed. Here and there are
large boulders deposited by the glacier which must once have filled the
valley. On reaching the iBand\ or culminating point we enjoy admirable
Views in both directions : to the right rise the Raudalstinder (7410 ft.),
to the left is the Melkedalslind with its perpendicular wall, and between
them peeps the Fanaraak (p. 152) in the distance; looking back, we ob-
serve the Raudalstind on the left, the Stiehulstind (Grashorung) on the
right, and between them the Sletmarkhe (p. 140) with a fine amphitheatre of
glaciers. It takes about IV2 hr. to cross the 'Band'', from which a route
leads to the W. round the Svartdalsegg to the Langvand and the Store
Aadal (a round of 10-12 hrs. from the Gjendebod). We next cross the
Raudals-Elv by a snow-bridge and traverse rough and toilsome 'Ur1 and
patches of snow on the W. side of the valley, skirting a long lake for the
lastl'/zhr. (patience very necessary here). As we approach the -Raudals-
mund, the precipice with which the Baudal terminates towards the Store
Utladal, the scenery again becomes very grand. A view is obtained of
the mountains of the Utladal and Gravadal, including the curiously shap-
ed Smerstabtmd (7305 ft.), from which the Sjortningsbroe descends. To the
E. we survey the whole of the Eauddal, lying between the Raudalstind
on the N. and the Melkedalstind (p. 152) on the S. The red (rand, red)
colour of the 'gabbro1 rock-formation here has given rise to the name of
the valley. Erratic glacier-blocks occur frequently.

The route now descends on the S. side of the waterfall of the Rau-
dalselv to the Store Utladal, about 3/4 hr. above the Muradn-Swler (p. 157).

The *Eow across Lake Gjende, from GjendebodentoGjendeosen
(3-4 hrs. J, is not practicable in stormy weather. Soon after starting a
view is obtained to the S. of the Svartdal (p. 143), at the entrance
of which lies the cattle-shed of Vaageboden. To the N. rises the
Memurutunge (p. 143). About halfway, at the mouth of the Mem-
urudal, is the club-hut of Memurubod. To the N.W., at the head of
the Memurudal, rises the Semmeltind. Toward the N.E. is the Beshe,
while more to the E. the Veslefjeld descends abruptly to the lake.

142 Route 17. BESEGG. Jotunheim.

From the E. end of tlie lake, named Ojendeoaen, issues the
small river Sjoa. On the N. bank here lies the club-hut of Gjen-
desheim, the best of the kind in Jotunheim (R. 80, B. 70, D. 1-
1 kr. 30, S. 70 ».), forming admirable headquarters for ascents
(Veslefjeld and Besegg 7-8 hrs., there and back; Besha 8-9 hrs.,
with guide) and excursions.

A good bridle-path leads N. in 1 hr. to the Bessa, on the N.
bank of which lie the Bes-Saters (good quarters at the upper saeter).
We do not cross the river, but follow the path on its S. bank in-
dicated by Varder ('stone heaps') to the height by the Besvand
(4525 ft. ; 340 ft. deep), where the routes divide. The lofty Beshe
here becomes conspicuous to the right. Our route ascends to the
left and in life-l hrs. more reaches the barren and stony Vesle-
fjeld (5675 ft.). The view embraces the whole of the dark-green
Lake Gjende, with the Koldedalstinder and Stalsnaastinder to the
S.W. ; most imposing, however, is the survey of the neighbouring
Beshe, while to the N. rises the Nautgardstind. — We may now
proceed towards the W. along the crest of the Veslefjeld, rising
between the Besvand and the Gjende, which lies 1200 ft. lower than
the Besvand. This crest gradually narrows to the *Besegg, a very
curious ridge or arete, a few feet only in width, descending preci-
pitously to both lakes, particularly to the Gjende.

Travellers with steady heads may follow the giddy 'edge' for '/a ^r-i
or even as far as the Eid separating the two lakes, and not rising much
above the level of the Besvand. It is also possible to proceed to theMe-
murubod (see above) by following the base of the Beshjj. It is, however,
preferable to return to theBes-Seeters, or to descend direct to Gjendesheim.

The ascent of the Beshtf (7585 ft.) from Gjendesheim takes
8-9 hrs. (there and back), and richly repays the exertion. The route
coincides with that above described as far as the Besvand, but at that
point we cross the lake and ascend along the Beshebrce. The view
from the summit embraces the whole of Jotunheim. Far below lie
the Memurutunge, the Besvand, Lake Gjende, and the Rusvand.
The slope towards the last is precipitous.

From the Bes-Sseters we may proceed along the W. bank of the
Upper Sjodalsvand (3255 ft.) to (l'/o hr.) the Besstrands-Sceter,
where the road to Storvik in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 121) begins. We
then follow this road, passing the Lower Sjodalsvand (3240 ft.)
traversing a spur of the Besstrands Rundhe (4910 ft.), and crossing
the Russa-Elv, to (l^hr.) the three —

Ruslicn Sceters (3125 ft. ; good quarters at all).

The Ascent of the Nautgakdstind ('neat-yard peak'), a broad and
partly snow-clad pyramid but with a summit free from snow, may be
made from these sseters in 3-i hours. It is sometimes spoken of as a
'Dametind', partly because of its graceful form and partly because the
ascent has been frequently accomplished by ladies. The path follows
the cattle-track ('koraak') to the Hindfly, where it turns to the left to
the Sendre Tvceraa and round the Russe Rundhe, traversing 'TJr'. Fine
view hence, to the S.W., of the TJukningssuen (7910 ft.). We now come
in sight of the slightly flattened and snowless summit of the "Haut-
gardstind (7615 ft.), to which we have still a steep ascent of about •/« hr.

Jotunheim. RUSVAND. 17. Route. 143

on the N.E. side of the cone. On the W. side the Tind ends in a vast
'Botn' or basin , 1600 ft. in depth. To the E. the view embraces the
extensive 'Ssetervidder' of the Gudbrandsdal with their isolated peaks,
as far as the Rondane and the S#lentind in the JtJsterdal. The pro-
minent mountains to the S. are the Besh# and the Knutshulstind, while
far below us lies the dark-green Rusvand. The grandest peaks to the
W. are the Memurutind (7965 ft.), the HeilstuguhO (7915 ft.), and the LeirhK
(7881 ft.), with their connected glaciers ; then the Galdhjjpig, and nearer
us the Glittertind.

From the Rublien-Sjetre to the Memurubod on Lake Gjende, a long
and somewhat fatiguing day's walk (9 hrs.). The route at first follows the
left bank of the Russa-Elv, crosses the Sendre and Nordre Tveraa (which
must be forded), and reaches the (3 hrs.) Rusvasbod, at the E. end of the
crescent-shaped Rusvand (4085 ft.), a lake 7 Engl. M. in length. The
little frequented path skirts the N. bank of the lake, crossing several
mountain-torrents. To the S. are the precipices of the massive Besh0 (see
below). At the (3 hrs.) W. end of the lake we ascend the Rusglop, between
the Gloptind on the S. and the Tjukningssuen (7910 ft.) on the N., and
then pass the Hesttjern, lying to the right. After following the height to
the S. for some distance farther, there is a steep descent to the (3-4 hrs.)
Memurubod (p. 141), where the muddy Memuru-Elv is crossed by a bridge.
Thence to the GJendebod, see below.

Route from the Ruslien Sseters to Storvik, see p. 131.

From Gjendesheim an interesting route (to which, however, the great
difficulty of crossing the Leirungs-Elv is a serious drawback) leads through
the 0vre Leirungsdal to the Svartdal, and thence along the Svarldalsaksel
to the Gjendebod (see below). Guide necessary (5 kr. 20 0.).

From Gjendesheim to Lake Bygdin (6-8 hrs., guide 4 kr. ; not a
very attractive route). The path leads on the S. bank of the Sjoa to the
Leirtmgsvcmd and passes round the E. side of the lake. It then ascends
the course of a brook to the S. to the Brurskardknatle , avoiding the
extensive marshes of the Leirungs-Elv in the valley of that stream. Around
the Leirungsdal rise the imposing Synshorn, Mugnatind, Knutshulstind
(7830 ft.), Kjamhulstind (7760 ft.), and Hegdebralted. At the top of the hill
towards the S. we reach a dreary plateau called the Valdersfly (4100 ft. ;
Fly, 'marshy mountain-plateau'), with its numerous ponds. Keeping a little
to the E., we then descend by the Rypekjem stream to the Stramvand.
For a short distance we follow the W. bank of the lake, cross the Vinstra
by a bridge, turn towards the S.W., past a spur of the Bitihom, which
has been visible from the Valdersfly onwards and thus reach the Rau-
fjordsheim Hotel near the E. end of Lake Bygdin (see p. 136).

Those who take this journey in the reverse direction should row
from the Raufjord Hotel to the Sund-Sasler at the N.E. end of Lake Byg-
din, and along the Breilaupa (p. 136), which descends from the Kalvaa-
hjefgda on the N., and ascend towards the N.E. to the Valdersfly, on
which the route unites with that described above.

d. From the Gjendebod to Redsheim.

l'/2 Day. On the first day we walk to Spiterstul in 8-10 hrs., and on
the second to Redsheim in 5 hrs. — Guide (scarcely necessary for tra-
vellers with a map and compass, as there are numerous 'Varder') to Spi-
terstul 4 kr., to Rjerdsheim 5 kr. 60 0. ; horse as far as the foot of the steep
ascent to the Uledalsvand 2 kr. 60 0., whereby the fatigue is much di-
minished.

The very fatiguing but exceedingly grand walk from the Gjen-
debod to Spiterstul should not be attempted without a guide. The
route ascends the left bank of the Store Aadals-Elv and passes
through the defile of Heistulen, between the Memurutunge and
the Gjendetunge. To the right falls the Olimsdalsfos. Splendid

141 Route 17. ULADALSBAND. Jotunheim.

view of the Semmeltind to the N. [see below). After 1 hr. we reach
the Vardesten, a large mass of rock, ^ hr. beyond which the
bridle-path to the Memurutunge diverges to the right (p. 140).
We next observe, to the left of the Semmeltind, the Hellerfos (see
below), and to the left, above it, the Uladalstinder (7605 ft. ; easy
ascent, splendid view). Pedestrians will find the passage of the
Semmelaa , which descends from the Semmelhul glacier, unpleas-
ant. (The Semmelhul is also crossed by a route into the Visdal,
which is no less rough and fatiguing than the present route.) Our
path now ascends rapidly on the E. (right) side of the wild Hel-
lerfos , the discharge of the Hellertjasrn, and reaches the top of
the hill in !/2 hr. (2 hrs. from the Gjendebod). Beautiful retro-
spective view of the Sletmarkher and Svartdalspig ; the Knuts-
hulstind, rising more to the E., is concealed by the Memuru-
tunge. The route traverses a curious-looking mountain - waste,
bounded by the Uladalstinder. Blocks of rock deposited during the
glacier-period are arrayed along the edges of the mountains like
soldiers. We now skirt the Hellertjasrn (4300 ft.) in a N.W. direc-
tion and then turn to the right into the insignificant valley which
leads to the N., and afterwards more towards the E., to the Ula-
dalsband. The serious part of the ascent soon begins (2^2 hrs.
from the Gjendebod), and riders must dismount.

Fkom the Helleetjjeen to the Leikdal and E0DSHEIM, a route
3-4 hrs. longer than our present route, is much less toilsome (guide,
unnecessary, to Ytterdals-Sseter 5 kr. 60 0. ; horse to R/Jdsheim , with
side-saddle if required, 8-10 kr.). From the Hellertjsern the path next
reaches the Langvand, or Langvaln (4630 ft), and skirts its N. bank
(for l>/2 hr.). On the right rise the Uladalstinder ; to the S. Svartdals-
eggen (7215 ft.). At the W. end of the lake the path ascends past the two
ffegvageltjcvrne to the Hjefgvagel ('Vagge'', a Lapp word, signifying 'moun-
tain-va^ey,; 5430 ft.), the highest point of the route, which commands an
imposing survey of the Horunger to the S.W. The path then descends
to the Leirvand (4925 ft.) and traverses a dreary and monotonous region.
Through the Leirdal to Bedsheim, see p. 148.

A steep ascent of V2 hr. brings us to the first of the S. Uladal
Lakes (ca. 5180 ft.), which, like the second and fourth, lies to the
left ; the third is to our right. The route, which is extremely rough
and toilsome here, keeps to the right and passes the foot of the
slopes of the Semmeltind (7480 ft. ; Semmel, 'a female reindeer').
After another hour it reaches the TJladalsband (5760 ft), its high-
est point, where it unites with the route across the Semmel Gla-
cier. We now descend to the two N. Vladal Lakes (5170 ft.). To
the right rises t\z Heilstuguhi*{VdlO it. ■ comparatively easy ascent),
the fourth of the peaks of Jotunheim in point of height, affording
a fine view of the Ymesfjeld (p. 147). Traversing the exceedingly
uncomfortable stony ground on the E. bank of this lake, we at
length reach (2 hrs., or from the Gjendebod 6 hrs.) Vladals-
mynnet, or the end of the Uladal. Splendid view here of the broad
Visdal, with the Heilstuguha on the right, and the Uladalstinder
and Tvarbottenhorne on the left. Looking towards the W. from

Jotunheim. SPITERSTULEN. 17. Route. 145

theVisdal itself, we observe the Kirke (7070 ft.) rising on the left,
past which a path leads to the right through the Kirkeglup to the
Leirvand (p. 144).

The route through the *Visdal (to the Spiterstul l1^-1! hrs.
more) follows the right (E.) hank of the Visa (vis, Celtic uisge,
'water'), at first traversing soft turf, which forms a most pleasant
contrast to the rough and angular stones of the 'Ur'. After 1 hr.
we cross the Heilstuguaa, which descends from the extensive Heil-
stugubra. Early in the morning the passage of the stream is easy,
but later in the day, when the water is higher, we ascend a little
in order to cross by a bridge (whence the Spiterstul is 1 hr. dis-
tant). Shortly before reaching the saeter, we observe to the left,
through the Bukkehul, the Styggebrm and the Sveilnaasbra, two
glaciers descending from the Galdhepiggen group, with magnifi-
cent ice-falls, that of the latter being the finest.

Spiterstulen (about 3710 ft.), the highest saeter in the Visdal,
commanded by the Skauthe (6675 ft.) on the W., affords plain
night-quarters for 8-10 persons and good provisions at moderate
charges. It is a good starting-point for excursions, but guides are
rarely to be found before the reindeer shooting-season in August.
If a guide is obtainable, the traveller may ascend the Leirhe
(7885 ft.), the Seilstuguhe (see above), and the Memurutind
(7965 ft.), the last of which commands a most imposing view.

The Galdhapiggen (p. 147) may also be ascended more easily and expe-
ditiously from Spiterstulen than from Rjjdsheiin. The route (not easily
mistaken by experienced mountaineers) crosses the Visa by a bridge
V2 hr. to the S. of Spiterstulen, ascends on the N. side of the Sveil-
naasbra, and traverses the three peaks of the Sveilnaasi. Owing to the
glacier-crevasses, however, it is not altogether unattended with danger,
and should not be attempted without a guide. Instead of returning
from the summit to Spiterstulen, the traveller may descend direct to
Rizrdsheim by Eaubergsstulen (but not without a guide).

From Spiterstulen to R0dsheim, about 5 hrs. (no guide re-
quired). We soon reach the zone of birches and (V2 hr.) a
rocky barrier through which the Visa has forced a passage.
After another Y2 nr w^ come to a pine-wood , with picturesque
trees (Furuer) on the N, side, some of which are entirely stripped
of their branches. (The limit of pines is here about 3280 ft.
above the sea-level.) Above us , to the left, is an offshoot of
the Styggebrae. In l/t hr. more we cross the Skauta-Elv, which
forms a waterfall above , by a curious bridge. To the S. we
perceive the Uladalstinder (p. 144) and the Styggehe (7315 ft.).
On the opposite bank of the Visa is the Nedre Sulheims-Sater
(3190 ft.), at the mouth of a small valley through which the ori-
ginal route to the Galdh»piggen ascended. Opposite the saeter the
Olitra falls into the Visa.

From Spiterstulen or the Nedre Sulheims-Sseter the ascent of the
Glittertind (8385 ft.), a peak nearly as high as the Galdh0piggen, may be ac-
complished in 8-10 hrs. (there and back; guide desirable). The route
follows the top of the hill rising between the Glitra and the Skauta-Elv,

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 10

146 Route 17. SMAADAL. Jotunheim.

and pursues an E. direction. The height first reached is the W. spur of
the rocky amphitheatre which encloses the huge basin (Botn) lying to
the N. In order to reach the highest point the use of an ice-axe (Isexe)
is sometimes necessary.

The Redsheim route continues to follow the E. bank of the
Visa. We cross the Grjota, the Smiugjela, and the Ookra. The
Visa is lost to view in its deep channel, but we follow the margin
of its ravine. An ascent of a few hundred paces to the E. of the
path leads to the Visdals-Ssetre (2960 ft.), where fair quarters for
the night are obtainable (particularly at the 0vrebe-8mter).

The Gokraskard, an excellent point of view which may be ascended
hence, commands a survey of the TJladalstinder to the S., Galdhppiggen
to the S.W., and Hestbrsepiggene to the W. — A still finer point is the
Lauvhjer (6710 ft.), whence the Glittertind is also visible.

From the Visdal saeters we may also ascend the Gokkerdal, between
the Lauvhtf on the N. and Gokkeraxelen on the S., to the pass of the
Finhala (3885 ft.). Following the Finhals-Elv thence and crossing the
Smaadals-Elv in the Smaadal, we may turn to the right to the SmaadaU-
Sceler (3905 ft.), from which the huge Kvitingskjeilen (6975 ft.) to the N.
may be ascended. The next points reached are the Smerlid-Swter and the
Naaver-Swter on Lake Thessen. Thence across the lake and past the
Oxefos to Siorvik on the Vaagevand, see p. 130. This route commands
fine views of the Galdhfipiggen and the Glittertind, but the Smaadal itself
is uninteresting. — Those who take this route in the reverse direction
should observe that, about lhr. beyond the Smaadals-Sceter, after cross-
ing a brook coming from the right, they must cross the Smaadals-Elv to
the left, and on the other side ascend the bank of the Finhals-Elv to-
wards the S.W.

Below the Visdal saeters the path is not easily traceable, but the
traveller is not likely to go far wrong. The descent to Redsheim,
skirting the profound Ravine of the Visa, presents one of the
grandest scenes in Norway. The Lauva descends from the right.
The saeter-path , now practicable for light carts, descends very
rapidly, commanding a view of the huge abyss. On the opposite
side runs the path to the Nedre Sulheims-Saeter (p. 145). To
the N. lie the gaards of Rfldsheim and Sulheim. The first cottages
are reached in I1/2 br. from the Visdal saeters, and here we cross
the curious bridge to the left. — Redsheim, see below.

e. Redsheim and Environs. The Galdh«piggen.

Radsheim or Rejshjem (1800 ft. ; *Inn kept by Ole Halvorssen
Rejshjem, a good English scholar, and remarkably well-informed
on the subjects in which travellers are interested) lies at the
junction of the Leirdal (p. 158) and the Visdal (p. 145), the two
valleys enclosing the Galdh«piggen, and is the best starting-point
for the ascent of that mountain and several other fine excursions.
The place is therefore often crowded in summer, especially with
Norwegian students and pedestrians.

The Ascent of Galdh»piqgen may be accomplished from
Redsheim in 8-9 hrs. (there and back, 14-16 hrs. ; less for active
and experienced mountain-climbers). The expedition is compara-
tively easy, especially if the night be spent on the way (at the

Jotunheim. GALDH0PIGGEN. 17. Route. 147

Raubergsstulen or, better, in the Juvvashytte), and has even been
accomplished by ladies. The usual guides are Knud Olsen Vole and
his son (5 kr. ; horse 4-6 kr.). Alpenstocks ('Alpestave') are pro-
vided by the guide. Provisions should also be taken.

We follow the Bseverdal road (p. 148) for about 1/2 hr. and at the
Mongjel Bdegaard ascend to the left to (IV2 hr.) the Redbergs-
Sater (one of the five sjeters of Raubergsstulen) , where accom-
modation is afforded in a hut belonging to Ole Rejshjem. The Red-
bergs-Saeter may also be reached by a direct footpath in l*/2 nr-
(guide desirable). Beyond the saeter we ascend to the S.W. to (1 hr.)
the barren and stony summit of the Galdeshei (5240 ft.), whence
a view of the Ookkerdal and Ookkeraxelen is obtained to the E.
(The bridle-path, however, rounds this hill on the S. side.) In
about 1^2 nr- more we reach the Tverbra and the Juvvand (ca.
6230 ft.), a small glacier-lake, with the Juvvashytte, which be-
longs to K. 0. Olsen and was enlarged in 1887 (several beds ; beer
and coffee; well spoken of). Above rise the amphitheatrical
cliffs of Kjedelen (7300 ft.). We now for the first time obtain a
view of the summit of the Galdhepiggen and the Sveilnaasi, its
dark rocky spur, with the Keilhaustop and Sveilnaaspig, all rising
like dark waves above the vast expanse of the snowy Styggebra or
Vetljuvbrce. Crossing a field of snow and a stony tract, we reach the
Varde (6365 ft.) on the Styggebrae in I-IV2 nr- and take 3/4-l hr.
more to cross the glacier with its numerous crevasses. The worst
part of the route now begins. The route traverses loose stones and
skirts a deep yawning abyss on the right and the Styggebrae with
its wide crevasses on the left ; it then follows a snowy arete, the
slipperiness of which makes the precipices on each side appear
doubly formidable. The summit, reached in 8/4 hr., is marked by
a lofty stone Varde which affords some shelter.

The **Galdh«piggen (pron. Odllcepiggen ; 8400 ft.) is the high-
est summit of the Ymesfjeld, a peculiar mountain-plateau, which
is surrounded by the valleys of the Leira, Visa, and Baevra, and
connected with the other mountain-groups of Jotunheim by the
Hegvagel (p. 144) only. The slopes of the Ymesfjeld on every
side are steep. Besides the Galdhepiggen, there are few summits
rising above the general level of its snow and glacier-clad sur-
face. The Galdhepiggen, the top of which is almost always kept
clear of snow by storms, is the loftiest mountain in Norway (Mont
Blanc 15,784 ft., Monte Rosa 15,217 ft., the Ortler 12,814 ft.).

The view from the summit is unobstructed in every direction.
It embraces the almost equally lofty Glittertind (p. 145) and the
Rondane to the E. ; the whole of the Jotunfjeldene to the S. ; the
Horunger, the Smerstabtinder, the Sognefjord, the Jostedalsbrae,
and the Nordfjord mountain-chain to the W. ; and the Snehaettan
group to the N. Most of these summits, especially the nearer ones,
are pointed and pyramidal in shape, like the Swiss peaks, and do

10*

148 Route 17. LOMSEGG. Jotunheim.

not present the usual flattened appearance of the Norwegian moun-
tains. The scene somewhat resembles a vast ocean furrowed with
enormous billows, or an Arctic landscape. No inhabited valleys are
visible. The distant dark blue water of the Sognefjord alone
recalls the existence of the nether inhabited world.

The descent is made by the same route to the Redbergs-Saeter
in 4 hrs., and to Radsheim in IV2 nl- more.

Experienced mountaineers may proceed direct from the summit of
Galdhgpiggen across the Styggebrce or to Keilhaustop and Sveilnaaspig,
and descend by the Sveilnaasbras to the Spilerstul (p. 145) in the Visdal
and thence proceed to Lake Gjende. The route, however, requires the
utmost caution, all these 'Pigge1 being covered with glacier-ice fissured
with crevasses (Sproecker).

R»dsheim is also the best starting-point for the ascent of the
Lomsegg (6885 ft.), the summit of which is reached via Gaarden
Sulheim in 5-6 hours . It commands an imposing view of the Glitter-
tind, Galdhepiggen, and Smarstabtinderne, and of the Fanaraak to
the S.W., which, however, seems a long way off.

The best survey of the whole chain is obtained from the Hest-
brsepiggene (6095 ft.), which may be described as the 'Faulhorn' of
Jotunheim. The two peaks of that name rise on the other side of
the valley, to the N.W. Riding is practicable for part of the way.

A very interesting *Walk of 1-2 hrs. may be taken from Reds-
heim to Glimsdal, on the right bank of the Baevra, situated ob-
liquely above Gaard Sulheim. We follow the Lorn road (p. 130)
and (10 min.) cross the Baevra. A rocky *Hill here commands a
fine view of Redsheim and the Galdheer. A pleasant meadow-path
then leads to the left through a plantation of alders to (20 min.)
the right side of the valley and to Glimsdal, a group of farms by
the side of which the Glaama descends in four falls. "We may then
ascend by the broad track on the left bank of the Glaama in 20 min.
more to Qaarden Engum on the hill above.

Close to Rerdsheim, by the upper bridge across the Baevra, are
numerous Jattegryder, or water-worn 'giant cauldrons', the largest
of which is about 10 ft. in diameter. The stones they contain have
been lodged there by inundations subsequent to the period when
the hollows were formed.

From Ktfdsheim through the Visdal or the Leirdal to Lake Gjende,
see pp. 146-143.

f. From Rerdsheim over the Sognefjeld to Fortun.

This charming route takes about l'/2 day (66 Kil. ; guide and horse
16 kr.). Walkers should pass the night at the (7 hrs.) Bfevertun-Sffiter
and proceed next day to (ll hrs.) Fortun. The first 3 Engl. M. are practic-
able for driving, but the rest of the way is only a bridle-path

Redsheim, see p. 146. Our route leads to (3/4 hr.) Bceverdals
Kirke. On the opposite side of the valley is Bakkeberg, with large
farm-buildings amid smiling corn-fields. The road ascends steeply
through the grand gorge of *Oalderne, with its overhanging rocks.
To the right we have a view of the Juvtind, to the left of the Best-

Jotunheim. BtEVERDAL. 17. Route. 149

brae. A little farther on the path divides. The route formerly most
frequented follows the course of the Bavra, passing the saeters of
Rusten, Flekken (driving practicable to this point), Netto, and Preste
(good accommodation), to the Heidalsvand (2155 ft.), the stream
issuing from which forms a fine waterfall called the Heifos. At
the Rusten - Sceter the path joins that described below. — The
other and preferable route (bridle-path) soon quits the Baeverdal
and ascends the lower Leirdal to the left. We avoid the first bridge
to the right, and cross the Leira by the second bridge, at the
gaard of Aamot, following the left (W.) bank of the stream , and
passing Storlien. To the left are the huge slopes of the Store Juv-
br<E and the Store Qrovbra. Farther on we observe a grand Oorye,
through which, however, our route does not lead. On the left
descends the Ilfos, and facing us is the vast Loftet (p. 158), with
its extensive glaciers; nearer, on the left, is the Dummehe, with the
lofty fall of the Duma, below which lie the Ytterdals-Saetre. —
The path next ascends the Baverkjmm-Hals (ca. 3600 ft. ; 'Hals',
as in Icelandic, 'a pass') and (about 3 hrs. from Redsheim) quits
the Leirdal. [The Gjende Route turns to the left here, crosses the
stream, and leads past the Ytterdals-Satre to the Leirvand; see
p. 158.] We here obtain a fine *View of the shallow upper part of
the Leirdal, which is surrounded by snow-mountains and glaciers,
and farther on we enjoy a splendid panorama of the W. spurs of
Galdhepiggen, Loftet, the Hestbraepiggene, the Heifos, andBaever-
kjaernen (in the valley below). At a large Varde our path turns to
the, left and descends to the Bceverkjcem (ca. l1/^ hr. from the
Leirdal), which with its numerous promontories and islands re-
sembles a miniature fjord. We remain on the S. bank of the lake,
which is about 1 Engl. M. long, and after about 25 min., near the
Rusten-Sater (see above), cross a bridge over the Baevra. We then
skirt the N. bank of the Bavertunvand (3045 ft.). To the W. of
this lake rises the Dummehe. The whole scene here is one of
striking grandeur. At the W. end of the Baevertunvand we at
length reach the (6 hrs. from Radsheim) —

Bsevertun-Saeter (3050 ft.), where there is a small but under
the circumstances very comfortable house for travellers (five beds at
40 e. each; eggs, fish, bread, beer, and wine). To this establish-
ment belong 24 cows with their calves, 200 sheep, and 11 pigs.
The sheep wander over the mountains in summer without shep-
herds (Vogter), but the cows, summoned by the cattle -calls
mentioned below, come down to the saeter in the evening. The
pigs generally remain near the building. As in the Alpine chalets,
the milk is manufactured here into cheese and butter. The whey
(Mysa) is carried down to the valley in drum-shaped Myseflasker
(called Primstrumper in the Hardanger), slung over the backs of
horses. The cords used here are made of twisted willows, and the
horses are tethered in an ingenious manner. The sledges and

I b() Route 17. SM0RSTABBR.F. Jotunheim.

carts are made of wood, frequently without the aid of a particle
of iron. The girls will sometimes sing their untutored but not
unmelodious songs by the fireside of an evening, a performance for
■which of course no payment is expected or ought to be offered. In
the morning and evening they summon the cows from the moun-
tains by curiously modulated calls, consisting of a few notes long
drawn out (comp. p. 127).

As the next human habitations, the Turtegred and Gjessingen
sseters (p. 151), are 7-8 hrs. walk from the Baevertun Saeter, an
early start should be made. After about V^1- the route crosses the
Dommabro or Dorribrui, where the Domma, shortly before its junc-
tion with the Baevra, flows underground, and then leads for lJ/2-
l3/4 hr. through the somewhat monotonous valley of the Basvra,
until it reaches the Nupshaug, a curious rocky knoll in the middle
of the valley. Adjoining it is a fall of the Baevra; to the left are
two other waterfalls, all of which unite here. We now ascend to a
higher region of the valley, pass (25-30 min.) the ruined stone
hut of Krosboden, and obtain a view to the left of the *Sm«rstab-
brs, one of the most extensive glaciers in Norway, overtopped by
the Smerstabtinderne (7305 ft.), the ascent of which may be made
from the Baevertun-Saeter (10-12 hrs., there and back) without ma-
terial difficulty. The services of a good guide should, however,
be secured. The Baevra issues from the glacier, at the end of
which there is a magnificent ice-cavern (digression of J/2 ftr0- —
In 74 nr- from Krosboden we come to a stone Varde surmounted by
a wooden figure, bearing the inscription (of which only a few letters
are now legible) : —

'Vser rask som en L0ve, Og skynd dig som en Hind!
See Veiret det gryner i Fanaraak Tind!'
'Be quick as a lion, haste thee like a hind; see how the storms lower
over the Fanaraak Peak!'

In i/2 nr- we now reach the actual Fjeld, whence we enjoy a
grand view of the Smerstabbrae, and of the Fanaraak, farther to
the W. We next reach (^hr.) Krosheien, the highest point of an
extensive mountain-tract, and cross the boundary of Bergens-Stift
(4630 ft.). To the left we observe the Rauskjeldvand, and after-
wards the Prestesteinvand, near the lower end of the Fanaraakbra.
Two hours are spent in passing this series of almost contiguous
lakes and glaciers. The route is marked at frequent intervals by
means of Varder, so that an observant and experienced traveller
may almost dispense with a guide. Should fog set in, one Varde
should not be quitted until another is descried. Failure to observe
this precaution might easily cost the wayfarer his life.

About 1/4 nr- from Krosheien is a curious looking Varde called
the 'Kammerherre'', consisting of a tall mass of rock with a pointed
stone on the top. The route soon descends steeply to the Herre-
vand, the stream flowing out of which we cross by the Hervasbrui
(Brui, bridge ; 4305 ft.), lV2nr- from the Kammerherre. It is usual

Jotunheim. OSCARSHOUG. 17. Route. 151

to rest in a stone hut here. The route next rounds the projecting
huttress of the Fanaraak (6690 ft.), and passes the (35 min.)
Oaldebergsuand, and afterwards the Juvvand (4115 ft.), fed by the
glacier-stream Juvvandsaa. On our left now rises the W. side of
the Fanaraak, and we soon survey the whole range of the Hordnger
(p. 159) rising beyond the deep Helgedal, the best point of view
being the *Oscarshoug (3730 ft.), a slight eminence to the left of
the path, lV2-l3/4 hr. from Hervasbrui. A memorial stone records
a visit paid to this spot by Oscar II. in 1860, when crown-prince.

We now descend by a new path into the Helgedal, to (1/2 hr.)
the two saaters of Turtegred (2790 ft.) and the saeters of Gjessingen
(p. 159), to reach which we diverge to the right.

The ascent of the Fanaraak, which is free from difficulty, may be made
through the Steindal from Gjessingen or from the Helgedals- Sceter (p. 153),
in the Helgedal, 40 min. farther to the E. (6-7 hrs.).

From Turtegrad or Gjessingen to Fortun , through the Ova-
bergsdal (lower part of the Helgedal), is a walk of scarcely 2 hrs.
more (ascent 3-4 hrs.); comp. pp. 159, 158.

g. From Eidsbugarden through the Melkedal to Skogadals-
been, and across the Keiser to Fortun.

2 Days. The first night of this magnificent but somewhat trying
mountain-walk is spent at Skogadalsbeen, which lies almost equally dis-
tant (8-10 hrs.) from Eidsbugarden and Fortun. The traveller is recom-
mended to take a guide for the whole way; to Skogadalsb0en 4 kr., to
Berge ('/a hr. from Fortun; p. 159) 8 kr. 40 0., to the Vettisfos (p. 102) 7 kr.

The guides of Eidsbugarden, Vetti, etc., are usually not well ac-
quainted with the Horunger, so that the traveller who intends to make
excursions among these mountains should dismiss his guide at the Helge-
dals-Sseter and choose a new one at Fortun or Berge (comp. p. 158).

Eidsbugarden, see p. 137. — To the mouth of the Melkedela,
and across that river, see p. 139.

Quitting the lake, the road gradually ascends the *Melkedal,
watered by the boisterous Melkedala. After 3/4 hr. the valley di-
vides. The branch to the left ascends to the Langeskavlen and the
Uranaastind (p. 138), while that to the right is still called the
Melkedal. Steep ascent through the latter, passing several water-
falls. As is so frequently the case in Norway, the valley neither
posseses a level floor nor expands into basins, but consists of a
chaos of heights and hollows, where the rock, polished smooth by
glacier-friction, is exposed at places, and at others is covered with
loose boulders. Vegetation ceases, and no trace of animal life is
visible, save the deep 'koraak', or cattle-tracks, in the snow. At
places, however, the ground is thickly strewn with the droppings
of the Lemming (or Lemcen ; Lemus Norvegicus, one of the rodentia,
and not unlike a rat), a hardy and intrepid little animal which
frequently swims across Lakes Bygdin and Gjende. The reindeer
often kills the lemming with a stroke of its hoof and eats the
stomach for the sake of its vegetable contents.

About 20 min. above the point where the valley divides we

152 Route 17. MELKBDAL. Jotunheim.

ascend a steep field of snow to the plateau of Melkehullerne, where
there are several ponds. In 20 min. more (about l^hi- from
Eidsbugarden) we reach the **Store Melkedalsvand, in a strikingly
grand situation, the finest point on the route, and well worthy of
a visit for its own sake from Eidsbugarden (best time in the fore-
noon, 4-5 hrs. there and back). Even in July miniature icebergs
('aarsgammel Is', year-old ice, i.e. winter-ice) are seen floating iu
the lake, and during the night a crust of fresh ice ('natgammel Is',
night-ice) is sometimes formed. To the left (W.) rises the Langes-
kavlen ; then the Uranaastind. On this side of the latter is the Red-
berg. Next, the Melkedalsbrae, descending to the lake , and the
Melkedalstinder , all reflected in the dark-blue water.

A walk of another hour over 'Ur' and patches of snow brings us
to an ice-pond at the foot of the first Melkedalstind, whence we
ascend a steep slope of snow in 20 min. more to the Melkedals-
band, the watershed ('Vandskjelet'). To the W. a view is obtained
of the Second Melkedalsvand , a much larger lake than the first,
and generally covered with winter-ice down to the month of July.
To the left rise the first and to the right the second Melke-
dalstind (7110 ft. ; ascended either from the Raudal or the Melke-
dal), and to the N.W. the Raudalstind (7410 ft.). The scenery
continues to be very imposing. The route skirts the N. side of
the second Melkedalsvand and (*/2 hr-) crosses the stream. Very
rough walking. A view of the Horunger is now disclosed (p. 158);
on the right rises the Skogadalsnaasi ; on the left is the arm of
the Melkedalsbrae mentioned at p. 138, with its large moraines,
descending from the Uranaastind. The striation of the rocks by
glacier- action (Skurings-Striber) is frequently observable. The
boisterous torrent is again crossed by a snow-bridge, the remains
of an avalanche (caution necessary), or the traveller may wade
through it a little lower down , where the water is knee-deep.
The Melkedal now ends in a precipitous Balte ('girdle'), over
which the river is precipitated in a fall of about 590 ft. in height.
To this point also descends the W. arm of the Melkedalsbrse, by
which the descent hither from the Uranaastind may be made (see
above). The lower region of the valley which we now enter is the
*Skogadal, which expands into a broad basin. Above it tower the
majestic Horunger (p. 158), consisting of the Skagastelstinder and
the Styggedalstind. The appearance of the Maradalsbra. descending
from the Skagastelstind is particularly striking. — The Skogadal
is at first a little monotonous, but with the increasing warmth
of the temperature the vegetation improves, and the scanty 'Rab'
or scrub is soon exchanged for a fine growth of birches (whence
the name, 'forest valley'). There is no defined path at first, but
the route follows the N. side of the Skogadals-Elv and afterwards
the track made by the cattle (Koraak). A walk of 2 hrs. from
the 'Baelte' brings us to the sseters of —

Jotunheim. STYGGEDALSBOTN. 17. Route. 153

Skogadalsbeen in the Utladal, see p. 158. For the rest of the
tour the guide may be dispensed with, except for crossing the Rei-
ser Pass, especially 'if it is still covered with snow. The track is
practicable for riding for 2-3 hrs. beyond this point, but horses
can seldom be obtained here. Ascending from Skogadalsb»en for
25 min., we reach a new bridge on the left and cross it. The
path to the right leads to the (25 min.) Guridals-Saeter, while we
follow the good saeter-track to the W., on the N. bank of the
Gjertvas-Elv or Styggedals-Elv, a stream descending from the Gjert-
vasbrcB (at the base of the Styggedalstind) and the Reiser. The re-
trospect becomes grander and more open as we advance : to the
left is the Sruerstabbrae and the church at the end of the Store
Utladal, to the right of which are the Raudalstinder ; in front of
us is the Skogadalsnaasi ; more to the right the Melkedalstind,
the Uranaastind, and, to the extreme right, the Falketind. After
40 min. a small waterfall is passed. To the left extends the large
Gjertvasbrce, at the base of the Styggedalstind (7710 ft.), the ascent
of which is impracticable from this side. We do not, however,
arrive fairly opposite the glacier for another Y2 nr-

The path, which now becomes easier, next leads to the ('/4 hr.)
Gjertvand , passes to the left of this lake , and then ascends
steeply, over debris and snow, to the Keiser Pass (4920 ft.), be-
tween the Styggedalsnaasi on the left and the Ilvasnaasi to the
right. To the left lies the Ilvand. To the S.E., above the snow-
ftelds of the Styggedalstind rises the Koldedalstind, to the N. the
Fanaraak, to the W. the huge Jostedalsbrae and the mountains
bordering the Lysterfjord. The path now leads along the top of
the hill, passing the pond of Skauta and (1/4 hr.) a large block
of white quartz (to the left). The Horunger, especially the moun-
tains round the Styggedalsbotn , now become conspicuous to the
left. After 20 min. we cross the Eelgedals-Elv, which flows towards
the W. and is sometimes scarcely fordable, and after 10 min.
more reach a barren rocky summit, commanding a beautiful view
of the huge amphitheatre of snow-fields and glaciers surrounding
the ^Styggedalsbotn , above which towers the Styggedalstind with
the Styggedalsbrce. This view is almost unsurpassed in Jotunheim
for wildness and grandeur. Soon after we pass a small waterfall
formed by the Helgedals-Elv. After 25 min. we see to the left the
outflow of the Styggedal glacier, and to the right the Steindals-Elv
descending from the Fanaraak. In front of us extends the wide
Helgedal, to which the path now rapidly descends.

"We next pass, on the left, the fine (V4 hr.) Skautefos, at the
confluence of the Helgedals-Elv and the Styggedals-Elv. The path
then crosses the Steindals-Elv, which usually offers no difficulty,
and leads through the wide valley to the (3/4 hr.) Helgednls-Sceter
and on to (2^2 nrs.) Fortun; see pp. 160-158.

154 Route 17. FLESKEDAL. Jotunheim.

h. From the Vettisfos to Tvindehoug and Eidsbugarden.

8-10 hrs. A grand expedition (guide advisable, bl/i kr.). In _ the re-
verse direction a saving is effected by rowing across Lake Tyin (with
one rower, for 1, 2, 3 persons, 80 C, 1 kr., or 1 kr. 20 #.). In this case
a guide should be taken as far as Smaaget.

[More fatiguing than the route described below, and not free from
risk, is that through the Morka-Koldedal, whence the Koldedtfla, forming
the Vettisfos, descends. It crosses two frozen lakes and may be imprac-
ticable in the height of summer. See Map, p. 132]

Oaarden Vetti and the Vettisfos, see p. 102. We ascend the
Vettisgalder towards the N.E., and in i/2 lir. reach a shelf com-
manding a view of the Utladal to the N., with the Maradalsfos on
the left. In another ^2 nr- we reach the top of the hill, with a
few sickly pines and numerous trees overthrown by the wind.
To the right rises the Stelsnaasitind . We then descend to the
left, over marshy ground, to (5 min.) a bridge across the Mor-
kadela and then to (5 min.) a point commanding a view of the
Vettisfos from above. We next ascend the left bank of the Morka-
dela (higher up called the Koldedela) towards the E., keeping close
to the river, and in 20 min. cross the river and reach the — •

Vettismorka-Sceter (2190 ft.), which is occupied in September
only. To the W., at the head of the Stelmaradal, rises the Riings-
tind with the Riingsbrae ; farther down, the Maradalsfos ; to the
right, the Maradalsnaasi. The view of the Horunger increases in
grandeur.

Those who wish to ascend the highest of the Stalsnaasitinder (G790 ft.)
diverge here, reach the top in 2'/2-3 hrs., and descend in 2 hrs. to the
Fleskedals-Seetre, where the night is usually spent. The summit com-
mands a superb view of the Horunger, the three Maradale, and the pro-
found Utladal, said by Slingsby to be one of the finest views in Jotunheim.
Anfind Vetti should be engaged as guide for this ascent.

Onr route, leaving the tarn to the left, now leads through pines
and birches and over swampy ground to the (y2 hr.) bridge over
the Fleskedals-Elv. It then bears to the left and ascends rapidly
through wood (difficult to trace) to the (V2 hr.) top of the 'Nsss',
projecting from the Stalsnaasitind. Magnificent view of the Skaga-
stelstinder (7850 ft.), rising above the Midtmaradal. We then de-
scend slightly to the (l/4 hr.) four —

Fleskedals-Ssetre, one of which, belonging to Anfind Vetti,
affords clean quarters. These saeters (here called Sal) accommodate
in summer about 40 cows and 200 goats , which descend to the
Vettismorka-S»ter in the middle of September and to the valley
at the end of the same month. If the traveller intends to pass the
night here, he should bring a tin of preserved meat with him from
Vetti, as only bread, milk, and coffee can be obtained here, and
the walk to Eidsbugarden is long and heavy. — Route to Skogadals-
been, see p. 155.

We now cross the Fleskedals-Elv and ascend its left (S.) bank.
Striking retrospective view of the Horunger, and particularly of the
Riingsbrae. To the N. we first observe the Friken (4630 ft. ; see

Jotunheim. UTLADAL. 17. Route. 155

below), the top of which may be reached on horseback from the
saeter (fine view of the Horunger), and afterwards the precipices of
the 'Naes' which separates the Fleskedal from the Uradal. (The
latter, one of the most sequestered valleys in Jotunheim, is almost
unknown; at the E. end of it rises the Uranaastind, p. 138; and
at the W. end it debouches on the Utladal, about Y2 hr. to the S.
of Skogadalsbeen.) Our route through the Fleskedal gradually
ascends to the defile of Smaaget, which it reaches in21/2hrs. after
leaving the saeter. The scenery is somewhat monotonous. At first
the Stelsnaasitinder, with a large glacier, rise to the right ; after-
wards we have the Koldedalstind on the right and the Fleskedals-
tind on the left. The path then descends steeply to the Upper
Koldedalsvand or Uradalsmulen, and leads to the S., following the
Koldedela and the painted 'Varder' to the Lower Koldedalsvand.
We cross the Koldedela at the upper end of this lake (50 min. from
the topNof the pass), and then walk along the E. bank of the lake
and the stream to the upper end of Lake Tyin, crossing the marshy
ground by means of stepping-stones. The path is a little difficult
to find. We then proceed either to the S. to Tvindehoug, or across
the Eid to Eidsbugarden (p. 139).

i. From the Vettisfos to B»dsheim through the Utladal, the
Gravdal, and the Leirdal.

2'/a Days: — 1st. From Gaarden Vetli to Skogadalsbeen, 6-7 hrs. ; or
as far as the GuridaU-Satre 3,U hr. farther (or to Muran, f/2 hr. from
Skogadalsbffen, at which last place enquiry should be made whether the
Muran saeter is tenanted). Those who arrive at Skogadalsb#en early
enough, and intend passing the night there, may ascend the Skogadalsnaasi
in the evening. — 2nd. From Skogadalsbtfen to the Ytlerdals Swire, 10-
11 hrs. ; to shorten which the previous night should be spent if possible
at Muran; if necessary, the night may be spent in the refuge-hut on the
Leirvand. — 3rd. To Redsheim, 4-5 hrs.

Oaarden Vetli and the Vettisfos, see p. 102 ; thence to the Fleske-
dals - Saters , 3-3Y2 hrs., p. 154. — The present route ascends
the Friken (p. 154), which is covered with vegetation, following the
direction of the 'Varder', and after 3/4 hr. descends again for some
distance. It then skirts the slope of the mountains, high above the
Utladal, the bottom of which is seldom visible. As we proceed we
enjoy an unimpeded *View of the Horunger, soaring above the
white snow-fields on their flanks : to the left, the Skagastelstinder
(7850 ft.) rising above the Midtmaradal, then the Styggedalstind,
the E. buttress of the group, descending into the Maradal, with
the extensive Maradalsbra (p. 154). To the S. , beyond the end of
the Utladal, we see the Blejan and the Fresvikfjeld (p. 109); to
the S.E., the Stelsnaasitind ,• to the E. the sharp pyramid of the
Uranaastind ; to the N. the summits inclosing the Skogadal and
Utladal, and in the distance a range of snow-clad mountains, prob-
ably those between the valley of the Otta and that of the B»vra in
the Gudbrandsdal.

156 Route 17. UTLADAL. Jotunheim.

In :y4lir. we see below us, to the left, the Vormelid Sater
(p. 161), which cannot be reached from this side. In front of us lie
Skogadalsbaen and the Guridals-Saeters (see below). The path then
descends rapidly through fatiguing underwood ( Vir) and in 3/4 hr.
reaches a small birch-wood. In 10 min. more the Vradal (p. 155)
opens to the right, with an immense tract of 'Ur', fallen from the
precipitous slopes on the S. We then cross the Vradals-Elv by a
small bridge (Klop). The mountain peaks are now concealed from
view by the numerous precipitous 'noses' running out from the
main ridges. "We then follow a cattle-track (Koraak) leading
through a sparse birch-wood at the foot of the Urabjerget, cross the
Skogadals-Elv by a bridge, and in ^ nr- reach the saeters of —

Skogadalsbtfen (2915 ft.), at the entrance to the Skogadal,
with a club-hut, opened in 1888. These saeters are among the few
in the Utladal which are always inhabited in summer (usually from
24th June till the beginning of September). The cattle come from
the Lysterfjord (a branch of the Sognefjord, p. 103), and have
therefore to be driven across the snow-clad Reiser Pass (p. 153).

From Skogadalsb0en we may scale the Skogadalsnaasi (6080 ft.) with-
out a guide (3-4 hrs. there and back) by ascending the valley to the
('/■2 hr.) Lnsahougene (see below) and then climbing to the right. The
direct ascent from the sseters is very steep. Grand mountain-view.

The Ascent of the Styggedalstind, the easternmost peak of the
Horunger, should only be undertaken by experienced mountaineers (8-10
hrs., there and back). The route crosses the TJtlabridge (2790 ft.), turns
to the S., and crosses the Gjertvas-Elv, which descends from the Reiser
(p. 153), on the S. bank of which is the deserted Gjertvasbeen sseter
(2950 ft.). The ascent of the Gjertvasnaasi now begins. In 1-1 V2 hr. we
reach the first plateau (4265 ft.), and in 3 hrs. more the Gjertvaslop
(4685 ft.). About 490 ft. higher the base of the peak itself is reached,
whence we ascend a slope of snow, then over rock with patches of snow,
and lastly over the broad crest to the summit of the -Styggedalstind
(7710 ft.). On the W. side is a sheer precipice about 1300 ft. in height.
If stones are thrown down into the abyss , their reverberation takes
several seconds to reach the ear. At a giddy depth below are the Gjert-
vasbrse on the N. and the Maradalsbrse on the S. — A fine pass, more
imposing than the Keiser and little longer, ascends from the Gjertvas-Elv
along the left margin of the Gjertvasbrce and descends over the Stygge-
dalsbrse to the Helgedal and Fortun.

From Skogadalsberen across the Keiser to Fortun (8-10 hrs.), see pp. 152,
153; through the Melkedal to Eidtbugarden (8-10 hrs.), see pp. 152, 151.

For the continuation of the journey through the Utladal a
horse may generally be obtained at Skogadalsbeen to carry the
traveller to a point heyond Muran (1 kr. ; no saddles). "We pass
a bridge, crossed hy the path leading to the Keiser (p. 153)
and to the three Guridals-Scetre, where the night may be spent.
Our route follows the E. bank of the Utla, passes the debris of
the Lusahougene, and (3/4 hr.) reaches the confluence of the Store
and Vetle Utla. The latter descends from the Vetle ('little') Utla-
dal, and is precipitated in several falls over the 'Baelte' or rocky
barrier of Tunghoug. To the right rises the Hillerhei (5250 ft.),
and to the left the Kongsdalsnaasi. The Store Utla, along which
the steep path ascends, has forced its passage through the 'Baelte'

Jotunheim. LEIRVAND. 17. Route. 157

and dashes through its channel far below. Fine retrospective
view of the Styggedalstind with the extensive Gjertvasbne.

Through the Vetle Utladal a little-frequented path leads between
the Fanaraak group on the left and the Smerslabbrce on the right to the
important mountain-route across the Sognefjeld to Fortun (pp. 148-151).

We next reach a higher region of the Utladal and (about 1 1/2 hr.
from Skogadalsbflen) the Muran Seeter, or Muradn Sceter (3325 ft.),
on the opposite (right) bank of the river. (Tolerable accommodation.
Those who purpose passing the night here should enquire at Skoga-
dalsbeen whether the saeter is inhabited.) Grand view of the Stygge-
dalstind to the "W., the Kirke to theN., and the Raudalstind to the
E. of this point. Those who require a horse here should attract the
attention of the people at the saeter by shouting, unless they prefer
wading through the icy stream, which, however, at an early hour
is usually shallow. (The route through the Raudal to the Gjende-
bod follows the left bank of the Utla , see p. 141.)

Having crossed the stream at Muran, we now follow its right
bank, at first passing the base of the Hillerhei. On the S. side
we observe the Skogadalsnaasi , the second Melkedalstind , and
then a large waterfall descending from the Raudalsmund, ad-
joining which rise the Raudalstinder. The valley is broad, and
partly overgrown with scrub. Nearly opposite the Raudal is the
stone hut of Stor Halleren, used by reindeer-stalkers. An im-
pressive view of the Horunger, which close the Store Utladal to
the S.W., accompanies us as we ascend. The valley now takes
the name of Gravdal. Vegetation gradually ceases. "We now
have to wade through the Sand-Elv , descending on the left from
the Sjortningsbrae , an offshoot of the immense Smerstabbrae.
The crossing is best effected near the Utla. Above the glacier
towers the curiously shaped *Sm0r$tabtind (7306 ft.; Stab, 'block';
the same word as in Stabbur).

As the path ascends the flora assumes a more and more Alpine
character (Bartsia alpina, Pedicularis lapponica, Veronica alpina,
Saxifraga caespitosa, Viscaria alpina, Gentiana nivalis, Pulsatilla
vernalis, Ranunculus glacialis, the last of which is known as the
Rensblomme). Having reached a height of 4925 ft., we at length
come to the stone Refuge Hut on the Leirvand, 5-6 hrs. from
Skogadalsbaen. The hut contains a table, two benches, some fire-
wood, and a few cooking utensils. Four routes converge here : that
by which we have ascended through the Gravdal, another from the
Gjendebod and the Hegvagel (p. 147), a third from Redsheim through
the Visdal, and the fourth from Redsheim through the Leirdal.

The route through the Visdal goes round the N. side of the Leir-
vand and ascends through the Kirkeglupet, between the quaint-looking
Kirke (7070 ft. ; difficult to ascend) on the right and the Tvcerbotien/iom
(6890 ft.) on the left, to the Kirketjaerne, a series of tarns. Passing these
it then descends into the Upper Visdal. On the right tower the vast
Uladalstinder with their extensive glaciers. The route, which cannot
be mistaken, afterwards unites with that coming over the Uladalsvand
from Lake Gjende, from the S. (see p. 144).

158 Route 17. FORTUN. Jotunheim.

In descending the Leirdal , we skirt the imposing Ymesfield
for a considerable distance, but the curious-looking Skarstind
(7885 ft.) is the only one of its peaks visible. To the left are the
grand glacier tongues of the Smerstabbrce and several of the Smer-
stabtinderne. Lastly we obtain a view of the Loftet (7315 ft.),
which is most conveniently ascended from the Baverkjccrn-
Swter on the Leiraas (fine view of the Galdhapiggen and Skarstind.
After a walk of 4 his. from the Leirvand we reach the —

Ytterdals-Saetre (3085 ft. ; good quarters) , prettily situated
near the lofty fall of the Duma. A good bridge crosses the Leira
from this point to the Leiraas , which is traversed by the route
from Rfldsheim to the Sognefjeld (see p. 148). From the sseters to
Redsheim, 4-5 hrs. more (see p. 148).

k. From Skjolden on the Sognefjord to Fortun and the Horunger.

From Skjolden to Fortun, 6 Kil. &3/t Engl. M.), carriage-road. Those
who content themselves with a visit to the Klypenaasi may be hack at
Fortun within 6 hrs., but if the Skagaslele and the Dyrhaugitind are in-
cluded a night should he spent at the Riings-Sseter. If, however, the trav-
eller is very much pushed for time it is possible, by making a very early
start, to return to Fortun the same evening. — Jens Klingenberg of Aar-
dal (p. 101) has the reputation of being the best guide for glacier tours
among the Horunger; the brothers Ole and Iver J0iene of Fortun, two
younger men, are also well spoken of.

Skjolden(j>. 105), a steamboat-station at the head of theLyster-
fjord, lies near the mouth of the pretty and fertile *Fortund<d
(p. 159), with its well-wooded sides. The birches and alders here,
as is so often the case in Norway, are sadly mutilated, being peri-
odically stripped of their foliage, which is used, alternately with
hay, as fodder for the sheep and goats. The cows also eat it
readily, but their milk is apt to be unpleasantly flavoured by it.
The barley -fields are remarkably luxuriant. The potato -plant
often attains a height of 2 ft. or more.

The skyds-station (fast) lies on the S. bank of the Fortun-Elv,
near the steamboat landing-place, in the gaard of Side, the oblig-
ing owner of which, Mr. Thorgeir Sulheim, is a mine of information
on the Horunger region. The road crosses the Eid, an old moraine,
and reaches the milk-coloured Eidsvand, on the N. side of which
rises the huge rocky wall of the Jersingnaasi (3088 ft.). To the
N.B. we have a view of the Fanaraak (p. 151). We now skirt the
left bank of the lake and then ascend the left bank of the Fortun-
Elv, passing the Lingsfos on the right. Farther on the road is over-
hung by the Smalaberg, beyond which the Kvafos is seen on the
right. To the right, above us, we observe Qaardtn Fuglesteg ('bird
path'; 2490 ft.), past which a fatiguing path leads to Farnats at the
E. end of the Aardalsvand in the Aardal (see p. 101).

6 Kil. Fortun (150 ft. ; *Inn kept by 0iene, the guide and
Landhandler, moderate; horse hence across the fjeld, 16 kr., see
p. 151), a fast station, consisting of a group of handsome gaards,

Jotunheim. HORUNGER. 17. Route. 159

with a new church. About 5 min. beyond the latter the path into
the Fortundal ascends to the left, while that to Berge ascends the
Fortungalder to the right.

Pleasant walk from the inn at Fortun up the Fortundal, with a fine
view of the Jersingnaasi (p. 158), to the "Skagagjel, a gorge on the
right, from which the Ovabergs-Elv is precipitated into the valley P/4 hr.).
Crossing both bridges, we reach with a little trouble an eminence to the
right immediately above the fall, in which a fine rainbow is formed by the
morning sun. We may then proceed in 5 min. more to a bridge over
the Forlundals-Elv and (without crossing the bridge) to a small rocky
"Hill by the Havshelfos (whence a ladder descends to the salmon-fishing
apparatus), and thus obtain a view of the beautiful valley in both direc-
tions, and of the Lingsfos to the S.

The Uppek Fortundal extends from the Lysterfjord for about 18 Engl.
M. to the N., as far as the Ilvcmd (4305 ft.), at the E. base of the imposing
Tundredalskirke (6590 ft). On the left side it is enclosed by the Tu/sen,
the Svajdalsbrm, and the Stenegbrce, and on the right by the Delefjeld, the
Liabrce (6100 ft.), and the Midtdahlmfti. The last sseter, that of Nerste-
dal, from which an excursion may be made to the Uvand, lies about 12
Engl. M. above Fortun.

Fortun is the best starting-point for a visit to the huge
*Horunger, one of the wildest mountain-groups in Jotunheim,
with their precipitous slopes, picturesque pinnacles, and numerous
glaciers, to which the green valleys below present a pleasing con-
trast. The sharpness of the peaks and ridges is caused by the
rapid disintegration of the 'gabbro' Tock of which the mountains
are formed. The name Horunger is said to be an ancient Aryan
word, probably signifying 'large mountains' (akin to the Greek
oftof, Slavonic gor, and the horje in the Voss district). The prin-
cipal summits, named fromW. toE., are the Austabottind (7225 ft.),
the Soleitind (6825 ft.), the Riingstinder (6615ft., 6555 ft, 6615 ft.,
6645 ft.), the Dyrhaugstinder (6930 ft., 6810 ft.), the Great Skaga-
stelstind (7940 ft.), and the Styggedalstinder (7800 ft., 7700 ft.).

A good, bridle-path, affording higher up a fine retrospect of
the Fortundal, ascends the steep Fortungalder in windings to
(l'^-^hrs.) Berge (1085 ft.), a farm which has given the name of
Bergsdalen to the corn and fruit growing valley that here opens to
the E. Our path crosses the Ovabergs-Elv, skirts the gaard of Sevde,
and ascends along the N. side of the valley. Beyond the gaard of
Optun (1350 ft.), with the Optunsfos, begins another steep ascent,
at the top of which the Horunger become conspicuous. The stream
forms several other falls, one of the finest of which is the Dokkafos
near the sseter of Dokka. The path to the Klypenaasi diverges to
the left, while farther on that to the Riinggadn sseters and the
Skagastele strikes off to the right, crossing the stream at the Simo-
galfos (p. 160). Just beyond the latter, about 2V2 ftrs- from Ior"
tun, we reach the sseters of Gjessingen. Scarcely 1/thi. fartrier
on, a little to the left of the path, are the two Turteyred Sceters
(2790 ft.), the uppermost of which affords Alpine fare but scarcely
accommodation. To the left is the path leading to Radsheim via
the Osenrshoug (see p. 151).

160 Route 11. DYRHAUGSTIND.

Ascending the valley for V3-V2 hr. more a,ld crossing the 'Baelte'
through which the river has broken its way, we reach the Helgedals
Soeter (3090 ft.), whence the path goes on over the Reiser (p. 153).
— A little below the Helgedals-Sseter, on the S. side of the valley,
lies the new Mein-Sater, at the mouth of the Skagastelsdal (see p .161).

The *Klypenaasi (3755 ft.), to which the above-mentioned new
path between Dokka and Gjessingen leads, is reached from Fortun
in 3 hrs. According to some authorities it affords the best general
view of the Horunger, which here show themselves in their full
beauty and majesty.

Closer views of this grand mountain-group are afforded by the
Riinggadn Saeters and the Skagastele, on the S. side of the valley,
to which the pass crossing the Simogalfos bridge (p. 159) leads.
To reach the former we ascend directly to the right in 20 min., or
follow the stream for 6 min. and then follow the sjeter-path to the
right (20 min.). The lowest of the five Riinggadn-Saters is the
most comfortable. The route to the Skagastele turns to the left
6 min. beyond the bridge, crosses the Riings-Elv by another bridge,
and in 40 min. reaches the two sseters, of which the upper one is
to be preferred. The scenery here is very striking.

On the side next the Riinggadn opens the *Riingsbotn, a huge
basin containing a large glacier , behind which towers the lofty
Riingstind. On the E. the 'botn' is bounded by the Dyrhaugsfjeld
and on the W. by the Levnaasi or Nonhougen, which is prolonged
towards the S. by the Soleitinder and the Austabottinder. The best
survey of the Riingsbotn is obtained by ascending the Riings-Elv for
3/4-l hr. beyond Riinggadn. A walk of lV2nr- more brings us to
the glacier.

The *Skagast0lsbotn lies between the Dyrhaugsfjeld on the W.
and the Kolnaasi on the E. Its floor is covered by the Skagastelsbra,
with two small ice-lakes (4430 ft). To the S.E. tower the Skaga-
stelstinder, among them the Store Skagastelstind (7850 ft.). This
'botn' is reached more easily from the Skagastele than from Riing-
gadn.

The nearest *Dyrh.augstind (6810 ft.) may be ascended either
from the Skagastele or from the Riinggadn in about 3*/2 hrs. In
the first case we ascend to the S. to the Dyrhaug, and continue
straight on. From the Riinggadn we descend to the Riings-Elv,
cross the bridge, and then ascend the E. bank of the stream to the
(1 hr.) hill above the gorge, whence we obtain a good view of the
Riingsbrse. We then climb to the left to the top of the Dyrhaug,
and follow the crest, partly over debris, to the (2y2 hrs.) summit.
The view hence is remarkably fine. Towards the E. we survey the
Skagastelstinder, to the right of which are the wild Maradalstinder ;
to the W. the Soleitinder, Austabottinder, and Riingstinder ; and to
the S. the other Dyrhaugstinder. To the left, lower down, lies the
Skagastelsbrce, and to the right is the Riingsbrce. Between the

MEIN-SvETER. 17. Route. 161

Skagastalstinder and the Dyrliaugstinderpeep the snow-clad moun-
tains on Lakes Bygdin and Tyin. To the N. rise the Fanaraak and
the Smerstabtinder, and towards the W, stretches the enormous
Jostedalsbrm as far as the Lodalskaupe (p. 108). The traveller is par-
ticularly cautioned against venturing too far along the sharp arete
with its loose crumbling stones.

The Mein-Sseter (3035 ft. ; clean and well spoken of) is the
best headquarters for glacier- tours in the E. part of the Horunger
district. — The following pass to the Utladal affords a grand but
trying excursion (12-14 hrs. ; guide indispensable). From the
Mein-Sseter we ascend the Skagastelsdal to the SkagasMsbra
(5156 ft.), cross the saddle between the SkagasMstind and the
Dyrhaugstinder , descend to the Midtmaradalsbrce (the lower end
of which is 3980 ft. above the sea), and proceed through the Midt-
maradal to the Utladal (3310 ft.). In this valley we may descend
to the right to Afdal and Vetti (p. 102), or ascend to the left to
Vormelid, a solitary group of sseters, and to the Skegadalsbeen
(p. 156).

The 8tyggedal8botn, the easternmost of the characteristic basins
of the Horunger, bounded on the W. by the Kolnaasi, on the E.
by the Simlenaasi, and on the S. by the Styggedalstind, is also most
easily visited from the Mein-Saeter.

18. From the Gudbrandsdal to Mseraak on the
Geir anger fjord or to the Strynsvand.

From Bredevangen to Lindsheim, 91 Kil. (57 Engl. M.), road with fast
stations; from Lindsheim to Grotlid, 36 Kil. (22>/2 M.), and on to the
Breidaltvand, road with slow stations. From this point we row to the
other end of the lake, and ride and drive thence to Mceraak (comp. p. 163).

A peculiarity of all the routes from the Gudbrandsdal to the western
fjords is that they ascend gradually to a lofty and comparatively level
mountainous tract, after traversing which for some hours they descend
abruptly several thousand feet to the fjords. This final descent, partly
over snow, coming at the end of a long and rough walk or ride, is far
more fatiguing than the ascent at the beginning of the expedition. The
marked contrast between the wild scenery of these mountains, with their
sharp and exhilarating air, and the rich vegetation of the smiling fjords,
where the weather is often oppressively hot, may be regarded as one of
the_ chief curiosities of Norway, especially as these entirely different
regions are often within two or three hours' walk of each other.

Route to Andvord and the Church of Lorn, see p. 130. By the
Church of Lorn the Re-dsheim road turns to the left, while our route
leads to the W., skirting the 8. bank of the Ottavand (1150 ft.).
The high mountain on the left is the Lomsegg (p. 148), and that
to the right (N.) the Loms Horung (5660 ft.). The country here is
tolerably well peopled. On the slopes of the valley lie a number
of farm-houses, the lands of which are separated from each other
by long stone walls, and the rye and barley-fields are frequently
enlivened with reapers, gleaners, and persons engaged in irrigatiiig

Baedeker's Norwav and Sweden. 4th Edit. 11

162 Route 18. LINDSHEIM. From Gudbrandsdal

the soil with the help of large shovels (Skyldrek ; comp. p. 130"). Part
of the road is bordered with alders, a tree rarely seen in Norway.

14 Kil. Aanstad, a good station , to the E. of the church of
Skeaker. The road now soon crosses by an old bridge to the left
bank. Farther on it traverses thick deposits of sand, the remains
of old glacier-moraines. On the right we pass the confluence of
the Aur-Elv , descending from the Aursje, with the bluish-green
Otta-Elv. On the left we obtain a view into the Lunderdal, with its
immense moraines ; to the S. rise the glacier-clad Hestbrapiggene
(p. 148), and in the background the Holatinder ; on the N. the valley
is bounded by the Grotaafjeld (6380 ft.), the Tvarfjeld (6365 ft.),
and the Svaahe (6135 ft.). From the last descend several water-
falls from a height of nearly 3000 ft. About 1/2 nr- before reaching
Lindsheim we recross to the right bank of the Otta-Elv by a bridge
in the old Norwegian style. Up the valley we obtain a fine view of
the snow-clad Glittertind (p. 145).

11 Kil. Lindsheim, a good station. Lars, the landlord, a
well-informed man, sometimes acts as a guide. Tastefully painted
clock and cupboard. (^Skrivarbred' and 'Bayers' are two kinds of
cake esteemed by the natives.)

A fine but laborious route leads from Lindsheim through the Brotedal,
past the Liavand, to Faaberg in the Jostedal. This route is described by Mr.
Milford in his 'Norway' as one of surpassing grandeur , the view of the
Jostedal and of the huge towering Lodalskaupe being almost unparalleled.
If the traveller is prepared for a very fatiguing expedition of 15 hrs. (on the
second day), he drives from Lindsheim to (16 Kil.) Hark in the Brotedal
(2190 ft.), walks or rides by the Dyrings-Swter and past the picturesque
Liavand (2475 ft.) to the Sota-Sceter (2625 ft.), and thence to the Rekjeskaal-
vand (3070 ft.), where the night may be spent at the (22-25 Kil. from Mork)
Musubytt-Sccter. Next day the Svartbytdal is ascended to the Hanspikje
(4520 ft.), whence the route descends steeply through the Sprangdal to
the Faaberg -Stel (p. 108), 20-25 Kil. from the Musubytt-Saiter.

From Mork a path, said to be very trying, leads through a wild dis-
trict to Opstryn. We ascend across the hill to the N.W. to the Framrusi
Soeters (2775 ft.) in the Raudal, ascend this valley, skirting the long Rau-
tlalsvtmd, and then mount across the Raudalsbrw to the Kamphamrene,
the 'Varde' at the top of which is named Store Rasmus (4065 ft.). We
then descend into the Sundal (965 ft.) and through the Hjelledal to Hjelle
on the Strynsvand (see p. 190).

From Lindsheim to Grotlid (36 Kil., pay for 45) the traveller
is conveyed in a carriole in about 5 hrs. (exclusive of stops). For
the greater part of the way the road leads through a vast wooded
and stony wilderness.

After leaving Lindsheim the road passes the Nordbjergskirke.
Above the thin pine-woods to the right we observe the Gjedings-
bak , which descends from the Sletflykamp (6160 ft.). The Demn-
fos Bridge which crosses the Otta-Elv commands a view of three val-
leys, the Tundradal to the S., the Brotedal to the W. (see above),
and the Billingsdnl to the N., at the junction of which lies Aamot
('meeting of the streams').

Beyond this point the road begins to ascend considerably, and
traverses a vast tract of rocky debris (Ur). On the left flows the

to Mceraak. GROTLID. IS. Route. 163

Otta-Elv, which descends from the H»gerbottenvand and forms the
Bibergsfos. Looking back, we obtain a view of lofty mountains with
glaciers, including the Tvarfjeld (6380 ft.) and Svaahe (6135 ft.).

The Hegerbottenvand with its wooded islands occupies a
higher region of the valley. In the background is the Skridulaupbrce,
with the Framrustkovd and the Glitterhe, and to the right, on the
hill , lie the Hegerbotten-Satre (3020 ft.). Passing a saw-mill
(Sagbrug), we next reach the Frederiksvand and Polvand (1930 ft.).
The road now ascends continuously through wild forest, where
thousands of fallen trees and branches broken off by the wind
(Vindfald) are left to decay. Numerous settlements of woodcutters
are passed. The road skirts for about l/± hr. an unbroken series of
cataracts formed by the Otta, known as the Polfos. About 20 min.
farther on (18 Kil. from Lindsheim) we pass a waterfall of the
Kvmrnaa on the right, and then by a wooden bridge cross the
Thordals-Elv , descending from the Thordal on the N., and fed by
the glaciers and snow at the head of that valley. On hills formed
by deposits of debris, to the right, lie the saeters of Billingen
(24 Kil. from Lindsheim), to the S. of which, on the opposite side
of the Otta, are the Aasen-Scetre. The country looks parched and
monotonous, as a peculiarity of the climate here is that rain is
very rare in summer (comp. p. 130). To the left, farther on, we
pass the Vuluvand, a pretty mountain-lake, into which the Vuludals-
Elv falls ; to the right are the Ny-Satre (2685 ft.). The scenery
now becomes more imposing ; the road is comparatively level. On
both sides and in the distance rise snow-clad mountains. On the
left is the Skridulaupbrce, with its ice-basin ('Botn'). We then
pass the Heimdalsvand and Orotlidsvand, and after a drive of
35 Kil. from Lindsheim (pay for 45) reach —

Grotlid ('stony slope'), a Fjeldstue or small mountain -inn
belonging to the government, resembling those on the Dovrefjeld
(p. 207); it contains 9 beds and affords good fare at a fixed tariff
(bed 50 er., for 2 pers. 80 v., B. or S. 50 »., D. 3/4-l kr.) ; a second
house is being built. Guide to Maeraak or Skaare 5, to the Kalhus-
Saster (on the way to the Tafjord) 4 kr. ; horse to Maeraak 9, to
Skaare 11, to the Kalhus-Sater 7, to Lindsheim 5 kr. (2 pers. 7 kr.
40 ».). Reindeer abound in the neighbourhood and a few bears
are also met with.

The magnificent new **Road from Gbotlid to Mceraak
(26 M.), constructed by Capt. H. Rosenqvist, will probably be com-
pleted in the summer of 1889. In the meantime it is generally
traversed on horseback. Pedestrians shorten the walking distance
somewhat by using boats on the lakes (8'/2 M.). A carriole may
be ordered from Maeraak by 'Forbud' to meet us near the end of
the Djupvande, 10y2 M. from Maeraak. Enquiries should be made
at Grotlid.

About 2 M. from Grotlid the road reaches the Breiddalsvand

11*

] 64 Route 18. DJUPVANDE. From Oudbrandsdal

(2885 ft. ; 5 M. long), above which towers the Breiddalseggen, with
the Djupvaseggen (5380 ft.) to the W. and the Vatsvendeggen to
the S. We then proceed to the W., skirting the Djupvande, a
chain of lakes, the first and lowest of which , the Langvand (2 M.
long), sweeps round towards the N. Just beyond this lake, in the
valley, we cross the boundary between the districts of Christiania
and Romsdal, while to the left rises the huge, glacier-clad Opblus-
egg (5150 ft.), forming the boundary of the district of Nordre
Bergenhus. Coffee and milk may be obtained here at the Fjeldstue
at the foot of the Stavbrcpkkene.

We next ascend to the highest Djupvand (3295 ft.), the water
of which flows to the E. to the Otta anil the Laagell." To the W.
rise huge walls of rock , beyond which are the slopes of a snow-
field, of which the Rindalshorn (5948 ft.) forms the central point.

Beyond the Djupvand we reach the watershed (3405 ft.) and
the winding new **Road, this end of which is about 3300 ft. higher
than the other end at Maeraak, which is lO1/^ M. distant (6 M. as
the crow flies). In this respect and in its rapid succession of the
most imposing mountain-views, it has no equal in the country.
Beyond the watershed the road skirts the Kolbeinsvand and then
makes a wide sweep to the E. round the foot of the Storbaren
(5785 ft.), at the E. corner of which lies the Viavand. It then
leads to the W. across another watershed and descends through
the Djupedal, with its four small lakes, to the Kvam-Sater and
the 0rje-Sater. To the right rise the Saathorn (5830 ft.), Vin-
daashorn, and Grindalshorn (5030 ft.) ; to the left are the Rund-
horn (4900 ft.), Flydalshorn, Jervkuppen, and Blaahorn. — About
2^2 M. before reaching Mseraak, we pass the *Flydalsjuvet (p. 187).
Finally, passing Hole and the church, we reach Maraak (p. 186).

From Ghotlid through the Videdal to the Strynsvand

AND VlSNiES.

This route fakes 9-10 hrs. walking (including short rests), besides
about 12 M. of driving and 7 M. of rowing. Guide to Skaare 6 kr., ne-
cessary; Horse 11 kr., almost indispensable on account, of the bogs and
brooks, though riding is at places very uncomfortable. No good quarters
iire passed on the way; those who wish to accomplish the whole distance
in one day must make a very early start. Though not unaccompanied
iv diiFiculty! 'his route is one of the finest fjeld-routes in the country,
aflording a series of grand mountain-views; it should not be attempted in
the opposite direction.

The road ends about iy2 M. beyond Grotlid. About 5 min.
farther on we cross a bridge over the Otta, here descending from
the Breiddalsvand (see above), and then ascend to the S.W. along
the left bank of the Maaraa-Elv. In front, a little to the left, is
the Storelefta. — In 40 min. we reach the Heihtuguvand (to the
left), which we then skirt for 3/4hr. To the left is the Skridulaup-
bra; in front, a little to the left, is the Maaraadal from which

to Mceraak. SKAARE. IS. Route. 165

the Maaraa-Elv descends. We next ascend to the W.S.W. along
the Vatsv end-Elv. In 50min. we reach the first of the Vatsvandene,
a chain of small lakes at the head of the pass, probably finding
outlets on both sides. To the right is Raudeggen , to the left
Vatsvendeggen. In 35 min. more we reach the —

Vatsvendhytt, a tourists' hut with a table, benches, four beds
of moss, and a stove (no provisions), commanding a flue panorama
of large glaciers and snow-fields. About */2 hr. farther on we reach
what seems to be the highest point of the route, affording a splendid
view of the snow-mountains in front. Straight ahead of us appears
the finely shaped Skaala (see below), with the Skaalabra, which
henceforth forms the background of the view in this direction. —
1 hr. 35 min. Cairn marking the boundary between the districts of
Christiania and Nordre Bergenhus. To the left lies the Langevand,
more than half covered with snow and ice. At the lower end of it
are extensive snow-fields, across which our route leads, maintain-
ing its general W.S.W. direction. — 25 min. Unfinished, bridge
(difficult crossing) over the Videdals-Elv, which descends hence
to the Strynsvand. The route now follows the left bank of this
stream, soon reaching a small stretch of made road (to be extended)
and a waterfall. After about l/i hr. a magnificent *View is disclosed
of the Strynsvand and the mountains beyond it (Skaala, Tindfjeld).
We descend across the snow to (20 min.) another fragment of road
and another waterfall, and cross by a stone bridge to the right bank
of the stream. — l/t hr. Lofty waterfall to the right; to the left,
above, the Tystigsbrce . The Videdal descends to the Strynsvand
like a staircase, forming three comparatively level terraces sep-
arated by two steeper slopes over which the stream descends in
several waterfalls. In front we enjoy a continuous view of grand
Alpine scenery. — In 25 min. we recross to the left bank by a
stone bridge ; the path here is very rough and marshy. — i/2 hr.
Via ScBter (milk , bread, and cheese ; Fjeldstue projected) , com-
manding a splendid *View, with fine waterfalls to the right.
We now descend rapidly to (10 min.) the new *Road, and in 5 min.
more cross the foaming Elv. Above us to the left are several water-
falls and glaciers, descending from the Nuken (5890 ft.). To the
left is a large waterfall of the Videdals-Elv, which is audible, but
not visible from the road. We now descend in sweeping curves
round the foot of the Aaspelifjeld to (ifahr.') a bridge (constructed in
1883) over the narrow but deep *Ravine of the Skjarringsdals-Elv ,
which here descends from the right. [A fine but fatiguing walk
may be taken up this ravine to Stavbrakkene , p. 164.] Skirting
this stream we reach (Y4 hr.) the first signs of cultivation and in
5 min. more —

Skaare (two beds, indifferent), where we obtain a good pano-
rama of the waterfall, the Via-Saeter, and the Aaspelifjeld. Skaare
is not a skyds-station , but a carriole may be hired here (to Hjelle,

166 Route 19. SKJyERJEHAVN. From Bergen

41/2 M., IV4 kr.). — The pleasant valley through which we now
drive is wide, level, and well-wooded, with numerous cultivated
fields and farms. The Skaala is prominent in front. The Tinde-
fjeld, Fosncesbrce, and Brakkefjeld also soon come into sight, form-
ing a grand picture. We pass lofty moraines, broken through by
the river, and obtain a superb view of the *Strynsvand and of the
just-mentioned mountains in their full extent.

Hjelle affords poor accommodation, though it is a 'fast' station
for both horses and boats (boat to Bergstad, with two rowers, 1 kr. 92,
with three rowers 2 kr. 88 0.). A fine termination to the'day's jour-
ney is afforded by the row across the lake (7 M.), the view to the
left extending up the Erdal to the Erdalsbrse and Tostedalsbrae
(p. 108), that to the right embracing the Glommenfos.

From Bergstad ('fast' station) to Visnaes (14 Kil.), see p. 190.

19. From Bergen to Throndhjem by Steamer.

80 Nautical Miles or 515 Kil. (320 Engl. M.). Steamboat several times
weekly, usually starting late in the evening and taking 36 hrs. or more
to the journey according to the number of stations stopped at. A berth
should be secured at once (comp. p. xix). The large steamers call only
at Aalesund (18 hrs. from Bergen), Molde (4-4'/2 hrs. more), and Ghris-
lianssund (4 hrs. more). The fares from Bergen to Throndhjem are
32 kr. for the first class and 25 kr. for the second class ; price of provi-
sions &c. on board, see p. xix. Comp. the 'Comrmmicationer'', No. 201, A,
B, No. 203, and No. 11.

The voyage is on the whole of little interest, and it is sometimes
unpleasant in rough weather. There are, however, a few fine points, such
as the mountain called Hornilen (or SmaUarhorri) , the promontory of
Sktdt, the charming little town of Molde with the view of the Romsdals-
Fjord, and the promontory of Slemshesten. The view of Throndhjem from
the sea is also picturesque. It must not be forgotten that the finest scenery
is , as we have repeatedly observed . generally to be found in the inner
recesses of the fjords, and not at their mouths. The so-called 'inland-
route' to Molde (K. 24) is far preferable. The distances in the following
description are given from station to station.

Bergen, see p. 69. The steamer threads its way through the
Skj<ergaard, or belt of islands, lying off the district of Nord-Hor-
land , which , together with Send-Horland , to the S. of Bergen,
constituted the ancient Herdafylke. The first important station is
(66 Kil. or 41 Engl. M.) Skjcerjeharn, a little to the S. of the Sogne-
fjord(li. 14). We next pass the entrance to that fjord, which shows
no sign here of the magnificent scenery of its inner ramifications.
The shapeless mountains have all been worn down by glacier-
action, and most of them are entirely barren.

To theN. of the Sognefjord the steamer skirts first the districts
of Sendfjord and Nordfjord (the latter extending to the promon-
tory of Stadt, p. 169), which together formed the ancient Firda-
fylke. We cross the Aafjord, and then the TXdsfjord, at the en-
trance to which is the Prceste station. Some of the vessels do not
touch at Praeste, but steer towards the W. to Vara , from which a
visit may be paid to the interesting island of A Idm (1550 ft. in

to Throndhjem. FLOR0. 19. Route. 167

height), which is known as the 'Norske Hest' and contains up-
wards of 1000 sheep. On leaving Prasst» the steamer traverses the
Granesund (with the Atlee on the left) and the Stangfjord, passes
Stavnces, the westernmost promontory of Norway, and reaches the
Stavfjord, which forms the entrance to the Ferdefjord. The steamer
that touches at Vara skirts the E. side of the island of Alden and
steers thence to the Stavfjord.

The Dalsfjord and F#rdkfjord are traversed twice weekly by a
steamer from Bergen, taking 3 days to the voyage there and back (see the
Communicationer, No. 252 C). A local steamer also plies weekly from
Flor0 (see below) to F0rde (see Communicationer, No. 252 D).

The Dalsfjord (in 'Sundfjord', not to be confounded with the arm of
the Voldenfjord, p. 170) runs inland for a distance of 40Kil. (25 Engl. M.).
In 874 this was the starting-point of the Norwegians who settled Iceland,
which had been discovered in the previous century. At the entrance rises
the massive Atlee (2280ft.). The steamer calls at Stremsnces and Dale ("Inn),
which lies on the S. side, about halfway up the fjord. Above Dale rise
the Dalshest (2320 ft.) and the dome-shaped Kringlen (2435 ft.). Farther on
are the Lekelandshest (2626 ft.), behind which rises the flat and generally
snow-clad Blejan ('mantle'; 4320 ft.), and the imposing Kvaiiisliesl (4070 ft.;
p. 180). The last steamboat-station on the fjord is Sveen (good quarters),
near the E. end, from which a hilly road leads to (11 Kil.) Langeland
and (11 Kil.) Ferde (p. 180). About 1 Kil. beyond Sveen is Osen, whence
a road leads to Sande (p. 179).

The FjBrdefjord, 30 Kil. (19 M.) in length, though less striking than
the Dalsfjord, also abounds in bold mountain-scenery. The most import-
ant place is Namstdal on the N. bank. At the end of the fjord rises
the majestic Kvamshest, at the foot of which lies the skyds-station Ferde,
whence we may drive to Mo and Nedre Vatenden on the Jjjlstervand
(p. 181).

78 Kil. (49 Engl. M.) Florer (Hilmer's Hotel; telegraph-
station), an island between the S»ndfjord and Nordfjord, is an
important station, being touched at by some of the direct steamers
to and from Molde and Throndhjem, and also by the Sendfjord and
Nordfjord steamers. This station, which has rapidly assumed the
dimensions of a small town (GOOinhab.), forms the E. focus of the
traffic of the Nordals, Eike, and Hedals fjords, and partly owes its
prosperity to its former success in the herring-fishery. On a soli-
tary rocky islet to the W. of Flore is the Stabbensfyr (lighthouse).

The coasting steamers , which now run between the mainland
and the belt of islands, next touch either at Kallevaag on the island
oiFrejen or at Berdle on the large island of Bremanger, which lies
at the mouth of the Nordfjord. At the E. end of the island is the
perpendicular and apparently overhanging *Homelen (2940 ft.),
rising immediately from the water. An attendant of Olaf Trygg-
vason (end of the 10th cent.) is said once to have attempted to
scale this mountain and to have been rescued by the king him-
self from imminent peril. The Flore steamer stops on Frid. at
Kjelkenes i Oulen. From this point we may go by boat to Rise (good
accommodation) on the Nordgulen, whence a wild route leads to
the Aalfoten Fjord (p. 168). The ascent of the Kjeipen (4460 ft.),
at the S. base of which lies the Storebotnvand, one of the wildest
lakes in Norway, is interesting. Stremsbotten, on the S. verge of

168 Route 19. NORDFJOKD. From Bergen

this extensive glacier-tract, recently explored by Mr. Slingsby, is
a good starting-point for crossing to the Aalfoten Fjord and0ksen-
dal and for other fine glacier-tours. It is reached from Flore via
Eikefjord, part of the way by boat.

The steamer now traverses the often very rapid Skatestrem, the
entrance of the Nordfjord , and the Vaags fjord, and stops at the
station of Mold* (H. Friis's Inn; telegraph-station), or the oppo-
site village of Saternas, 194 Kil. (124 Engl. M.) from Bergen and
50 Kil. (31 Engl. M.) from Flore.

The Nordfjord, extending to the E. of Molde for about 55
Engl. M., is one of the finest fjords in Norway, the innermost
arms being especially picturesque. A steamer from Bergen plies
on this fjord twice weekly (comp. Communicationer, No. 252 B;
night-voyage not pleasant for ladies, as the steamers contain no
separate state-rooms). The scenery of the inner branches of the
fjord is described in the accounts of the land-routes (pp. 184-5
and R. 22).

The first station is Rugsund on the S. bank, the second is
Bryggen on the N. bank, from which a road crosses the lofty Maur-
stadeid (2060 ft.) to (20 Kil.) Aahjem on the Vanelvsfjord (p. 170).
A little beyond Bryggen, on the S. bank, is Daviken, where Claus
Frimann, the poet (d. 1829), once lived. On the N. side, to the
E. of Daviken, diverges the Eidsfjord, running towards the E.,
with Nestdal or Nausdal (good quarters at the Landhandler Friis's)
on its N. bank, and Nordfjordeide (Inn ; telegraph-station) at its
head, whence we may proceed via the (7 Kil.) Eid to Vedvik or to
Nord on the Hornindalsvand (see p. 184). — The S.E. arm of the
Nordfjordis called the Isfjord and farther up the Utfjord&n&Indvik-
fjord; from it, to the S.W., diverge the Aalfotenfjord and (farther
on) the Hyefjord and Gloppenfjord.

The steamer calls at Jelsnas or Hjeltnas, at the entrance to
the Aalfotenfjord, passes the fine *Waterfall of the 0ksendals-Elv
(descending on the right from the Gjegnalundsbra, 5660 ft.), and
then crosses the Hyefjord, calling at Hestnces. To the W. rises the
Skjcerlngen (4070 ft.), to the E. the imposing Eikesnmshest (4065ft.).
— The Hyefjord is bounded on the "W. by extensive snow-fields
and glaciers (see above), which may be visited by boat or by steamer
(once weekly; see Communicationer, No. 252). In returning we
leave the steamer, which goes on to Bergen, in Hestnaseren (quar-
ters at the post-office). To the S.W. opens the fine Skjeerdal,
through which the Ojegnalund (5630 ft. ; splendid view) may be
ascended without much difficulty. Interesting glacier-tours (guide
and rope indispensable) may be made to Hope on the Hyefjord and
to 0ksendal. The sseters, which lie at a comparatively low elevation,
afford fair accommodation ; red deer, bears, and fish abound.

The steamer next traverses the Gloppenfjord to Sandene (Inns

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to Throndhjem. STADTLAND. 19. Route. 169

kept by P. Knoph, G. Sivertsen, and A. 0dven), charmingly situat-
ed at its head and affording opportunity for numerous pleasant
walks. Good trout-fishing in the neighbourhod. A road leads hence
past the Eidsfos to Vasenden on the Bredheimsvand (p. 181).

The steamer now returns to the main fjord , which here as-
sumes the name of Vtfjord (farther on, Indvikjjord), calling at Rys-
fjaren, Vtviken (p. 183), Indviken (p. 184), Faleide (p. 184), Old-
eren (p. 192), Loen (p. 191), and Visnms (p. 190).

The large coasting steamers traverse the narrow Ulve-Sund, be-
tween the island of Vaagse and the mainland, touching at Os-
rnundvaag. They then pass the islands of Barme and Seljev, the
latter of which contains the ruins of a Monastery of St. Alban
(12th cent.) and the shrine of Sunniva, an Irish saint, the pa-
troness of Bergen. Opposite the Seljea lies Selje, with the church
of Hove, on the S.W. bank of the peninsula of Stadtland, a lofty
plateau 17 Engl. M. long and 2,/%-8 M. broad, stretching out into
the sea in the form of a hand and forearm and forming the S. bound-
ary of Sendmere. The peninsula terminates in the promontory
of Stadt , well known for the tremendous storms by which it is
visited. The natives declare that the breakers here are sometimes
20 fathoms in height. A tunnel for the steamers has been pro-
jected through the Mandseid (p. 170), the narrow isthmus con-
necting the peninsula of Stadtland with the mainland.

A visit to the Stadtland takes 10-12 hrs. Provisions must be taken
with the party, and 'forbud' must be sent on to Drage if driving or rid-
ing is contemplated. From Selje we row along the precipitous rocky
bank in l-l'/a hr. to Drage (poor quarters), above which rise the
Skrwatna (1720 ft.) on the E. and the Vetenakken on the W. From Drage
a road leads E. to the chapel of Lekcmger and then to the N. W. through
the Merkedal, passing the Dalsbmand to (16 Kil.) Ervik, a poor 'Sand',
exposed to all the violence of the ocean , with inhabitants who support
themselves on milk and fish. From Ervik we may ascend (with guide)
the Kjaerringen (1675 ft.), which commands an admirable view of the
ocean, the Stadtland , the islands as far as Aalesund, and the S#ndm0re
Alps to the S. An easier path diverges to the right about 20 min. from
Ervik and ascends through a small valley. — Those who do not wish to
return to Selje may proceed from the Kjeerringen to the E., through the
Aareviksdal and along the S. slope of the Store Varden, to (V/z-l hrs.)
Eltevik, and row thence, enjoying a fine view of the Revihorn (1410 ft.),
to the Haugsholm (p. 170). Visitors to the Stadtland approaching from
the N. disembark at the Haugsholm and make the tour in the reverse
direction.

Beyond the promontory of Stadt the larger steamers cross the
Vanelvsgab and pass the Sande, containing the famous Dolstens
Cavern, about 200 ft. above the sea, the recesses of which have
been only partly explored. They then skirt the W. sides of the
large islands of Gurske and Hareidland, touch at Hereen, and
soon reach Aalesund (p. 170).

Those who leave the steamer at Selje (see above) may avoid the
tempestuous passage round the Stadtland by making the following

170 Route 19. DALSFJORD. From Bergen

tour. From Selje we row through the Moldefjord to (1 hr.)
Oaarden Eide, whence a good but rather steep bridle-track crosses
the Mandseid (ca. 490 ft. ; p. 169) to Enerhaug, situated on the
Kjedepollen, the innermost branch of the Vanelvsfjord. Then we
proceed by boat in about 1 hr. to (4 Kil.) —

Aahjem, at the S.W. end of the Vanelvsfjord, near the church
and parsonage of Vanelven. A steamer plies hence once weekly, in
about 10 hrs., to Aalesnnd (see Communicatloner, No. 260 C). —
From Aahjem to Bryggen on the Nordfjord, see p. 168.

After leaving Aahjem the steamer calls at Sandvik on the Stadt-
land (whence a footpath leads to Selje , see above ; 2 hrs.), the
island of Haugsholm (route to Eltevik, p. 169), Eidsaa on the
Servdefjord (see below), and several other unimportant stations.
It then traverses the Revdefjord and the Voldenfjord and reaches
Volden (p. 171) in 5 hrs.

The following is a pleasant excursion of two days, beginning
at Aahjem and ending at Volden. (The traveller is recommended
to take with him some tea or coffee essence and other portable
provisions.) We first drive up the Almklovdal for8Kil. (5 Engl. M.).
At a point 3 Kil. before reaching Almklov we leave the carriage in
order to ascend (with guide) the hill above the Storlivatn, which
commands an admirable view of the S»vdefjord. We then de-
scend, passing the Kilebrekvand, to (2 hrs.) 0ver-Berg, the highest
gaard in the Saurdal, about 800 ft. above the sea-level. Thence the
steep road descends in 3/4 hr. to Neder-Berg and the Saurdalsgaarde
on the Saurdalsvatn, where a carriage is hired to continue the
journey. In about 1/2 hr. we reach Vik and the church of Sevde,
on the S#vdefjord, the E. bank of which is extremely precipitous
and picturesque, while the W. bank is flat and studded with
pleasant gaards. Among these is Eidsaa, where the Aalesuhd steam-
boat calls twice weekly (comp. Communicationer, 260 C ; see above).

From Vik we may drive in the same carriage up the Norddal,
passing the waterfall of Sarpen, to Tverberg, the highest gaard in
the valley. Thence we proceed on foot, with the aid of a guide,
skirting a brook and several small lakes and at last ascending
somewhat rapidly to a sseter above the Dalsfjord, commanding a
magnificent view. We then descend by a well-marked saeter- track to
the Indsel-Sater, 3 hrs. from Tverberg, where good accommodation
for the night may be procured. The Dalsfjord (not to be con-
founded with the fjord mentioned at p. 167), an arm of the Vol-
denfjord, is about 17 Kil. (10'/2 Engl. M.) in length and is en-
closed on both sides by mountains 3000-4000 ft. high. At the S.
end of it, 5 Engl. M. from the Indsel-Saeter, lies Stensvik.

On the second day we row in 1/2 hr. to Indre Dale, and then (with
guide) ascend through the Dalsdal and descend through the
Laurdal to Birkedal (p. 171). The traveller is recommended to

to Throndhjem. AALESUND. 19. Route. 171

combine with this route an ascent of the Felden (4290 ft. 4 hrs.
from Dale), which commands a survey of almost the whole Send-
mere, the Stadtland , and a large part of the Nordfjord with the
Gjegnalundsbrse (5650 ft.) and Aalfotebne (5350 ft.) on its S. side.
The Jostedalsbr* forms a conspicuous feature in this prospect.
Towards the E. the Felden terminates in a huge 'botn', or moun-
tain-basin, above which rise the imposing Torene (Store Toren
4050 ft., Lille Toren 3880 ft.). — The descent from the Felden to
the Laurdal cannot be made without a guide. In 4-5 hrs. we reach
Sendre Birkedal (slow station), whence a road leads to the S. via,
(11 Kil., pay for 14) Smerdal (slow station) to the slow station
of (10 Kil.) Nestdal on the Eidsfjord (p. 168), while another leads
to the N. to Kile and (10 Kil.) Felsvik on the Kilefjord, the latter
of which is called at by the Aalesund steamers once weekly. We
may also reach Volden (9*/2 Kil.) by small boat in 2-2y2 hrs.

Volden (near the *Eedsat Station; Svendsen's Hotel; telegraph-
station), situated in a fertile district on the N.E. bank of the pic-
turesque Voldenfjord, is a good centre for several interesting ex-
cursions. The chief of these are those to Aahjem and the Stadt-
land, pp. 168, 169; via 0rstenvik to Scebe on the Jerundfjord, see
p. 175; across the 0stefjord to Ferde (Maaen's Inn) and by car-
riage to Kaldvatn (p. 176), and thence to the Jerundfjord (p. 175)
or the Hornindalsvand (p. 184). During the herring-fishing the
steamer may be detained some hours at Volden.

From Volden to the Eidsfjord (p. 168). We row across the beauti-
ful Voldenfjord towards the S., with the Matoesken (4412 ft.) rising to the
S.E., to the Kilefjord, where we land at the slow station of (10 Kil.)
Stramshavn. We then drive via Kile to (10 Kil.) Birkedal, another slow
station, situated amid fine rocky scenery on the lake of the same name.
To the right are the hills of Lille and Store Toren. We now ascend
rapidly, crossing a pass, to the (11 Kil. ; pay for 14) slow station of Smer-
dal. Beyond this we descend, enjoying a splendid view of the Gjerjna-
lundsbrai to the S. of the Nordfjord, and afterwards traversing wood, to
{5 kil.) a point where the path forks. The branch to the right leads to
the slow station of Nesldal or Sausdal (10 Kil.; p. 168), that to the left
to the fast station of Nordfjordeide (15 Kil. ; p. 168).

Leaving Volden, the Brstenvik steamer (p. 174) steers through
the Vartdals fjord, the Sulefjord, and the Bredsund to Aalesund.

92 KiL or 57 Engl. M. (from Molde) AalejBUnd (Hotel Scandi-
navie, R. 1 kr. 60 ». , S. and B. 3 kr., well spoken of; Schjelderop's
Hotel, R. 1 kr. 40, B. 1 kr. 20, S. 1 kr. 20 0. ; telegraph-station),
a thriving commercial town with 6900 inhab., founded in 1824,
and picturesquely situated on the islands of Nerve and Aspe. The
neighbouring fishings of Storeggen, to the W., are in great repute, even
attracting fishermen from Sweden. The town is the capital of the
Storfjord, the numerous arms of which all unite here, and it is also
the great mart of the torsk fishery. The fish are caught, to the
number of 5-6,000,000 annually, in large and coarse nets, about
7 ft. in width, with green glass buoys attached to them. The roomy

172 Route 19. CHRISTIANSSUND. From Bergen

harbour is protected by a breakwater. The church and gymnasium
are situated in Aspe. The Lihaugen, in the middle of the town,
and the Aalesundsaxelen (460 ft.), a hill surmounted with a vane
('FLeie') and the reservoir of the town water-works, command fine
views of the Jerundfjord mountains. — A walk may be taken to the
E. to the church of Borgund. In the vicinity is the old castle of
Hrolf Oangr, the ancient conqueror of Normandy. — A good road
leads from Aalesund to Vestnces on the Romsdalsfjord via Sjeholt
(comp. p. 188). To the Jerundfjord and Hellesylt, see R. 20.

Owing to the number of steamboats that touch here, Aalesund offers
numerous opportunities for making excursions to the fjords. Besides the
larger coasting vessels, steamboats start from Aalesund (comp. Commnni-
cationer, No. 260) —

a. Twice weekly via Molde (p. 194) and Vestnces (p. 189) to Veblungs-
««?*, Nces, and Sten (p. 197), in 11 hrs.

b. Thrice weekly via Aure (p. 188), langskibse, Sjgholt (p. 183), Hove
(Stordalen), Slyngslad (Slranden), Sylte (p. 187), Kellvig, and Vlredal (p. 187)
to Hellesylt (going on once weekly to Mieraak, p. 186).

c. Once weekly via ffrstenvik (p. 175), Volden, (p. 171), and Eidsaa
(p. 170) to Aahjem (p. 170) in 12 hrs.

d. Once weekly via J&rstenvik, Lekanger, and Larsnws to Eidsaa on
the S0vdefjord (p. 170).

Beyond Aalesund the steamer passes the island of Lepse (left),
where Miss Mouat, who was driven across the sea from the Shet-
land Islands in a boat alone in 1886, reached land and was rescued.
It touches at 0stncts (on the Harhamse ; view of the mountains on
the mainland), Hildre, Drenen (on the Miefjord~), and Gjelsten (on
the Tomrefjord*), and, b1/^ hrs. after leaving Aalesund, reaches — •
/- 66 Kil. (41 Engl. M.) Molde, (see p. 194).

Beyond Molde the steamer at first steers towards the W., then
turns to the N. and enters the Julsund. The islands of Otters
and Oorsen are passed on the left , the Julaxlen (1810 ft.), and
later the wedge-shaped Gjendemsfjeld (2080 ft.) on the right. The
first station is Bud or Bod, which is also connected with Molde by
a local steamboat (comp. Communicationer, No. 262, 'Udensunds')
and by a good road. On the left lies the island of Ona, with a
signal-light. The promontory of Stemshesten (2230 ft.), the S.
boundary of the Nordmere, now comes into sight, beyond the Bod-
fjeld, and a little later we see the lofty Tustere (2920 ft. ; p. 174),
to the N. of Christianssund. The sea here is as rough as at the Stadt.
We then pass the small Fuglen ('Bird Island'), with a signal, on
the left, and on the right observe several gaards at the base of
Stemshesten (Stemme, Hanas, etc.), which have regular steamboat
communication -with Christianssund (see below). Fine view of the
snow-mountains of the Romsdal. The steamer next passes the
signal-stations of Kvidholmsfyr and Hestskjarsfyr (white building),
and then steers between the Kirkeland and the Inland to —

81 Kil. (50!/2 Engl. M.) Christianssund. — Mstllerop's Hotel,
R. 1 kr. 25, D. 1 kr. 20 0. ; O. Tkoness's Hotel, small but good, the
landlady speaks English, German, and French. — Telegraph Station.

English Vice-Consul, Mr. Gram Parelius.

to Throndhjem. HALSEF.TORD. 19. Route. 173

Christianssund, the capital of Nordmere, an important trading
town with 9800 inhab., the staple commodity of which is fish, is
picturesquely situated on four small rocky islands, in the midst
of which lies the harbour. These islands are Kirkelandet, to the
S.W., with an old and a new church and the hotels; Inlandet to
the E. ; Nordlandet to the N., with a church and some fine woods;
and Skorpen to the W., with the drying-places for the 'klipfisk'.
Small steamboats ply between the different islands. From the
harbour we ascend the street to the right, and then visit the New
Church, which is surrounded with pretty promenades, commanding
a fine view of the mountains to the S.E. We then return to the
harbour via, the Old Church. The Vagttaarn also commands an
extensive view. — In the sea, opposite Christian ssund and about
12 Engl. M. distant lie the 'fiskevser' of Grip, with a population
of 200 fishermen and a chapel, surrounded by smaller islets.

The Khpfisk, or dried cod, the preparation of and trade in which
form the principal industry of Christianssund, is mostly exported to Spain,
where it is known as Bacallao Seco (from Lat. bacillus, a stick). It is
always packed in 'Vogers', each weighing nearly 401bs. Some of the prin-
cipal firms carry on so extensive a business that they keep several large
steamers merely to convey the fish to Spain. Christianssund also exports
dried torsk (from the Helder) to Italy, tinned fish ('Kassefisk') to Havana,
Rio de Janeiro, and China, salmon and lobsters to England, herrings and
cod-liver oil to Germany, and fish-roe (as bait for sardines) to France.
The Christianssund merchants often possess great wealth , and many of
the beautiful villas on the sheltered Fanestrand , near Molde (p. 197),
belong to them.

Christianssund affords opportunity for several pleasant excur-
sions in the fjords, which here stretch far into the mainland. The
following local steamers ply from its harbour (comp. Communi-
cationer, No. 260).

A steamer ('til Sundalen") plies from Christianssund thrice weekly (also
excursion-steamers in summer) through the Sundalsfjord to Sundalseren
(p. 209), at its head. The intermediate stations are Stensvik, Outset, Gim-
nces, Strand-Baltenfjordseren (comp. p. 206), fire, Torvig, Berge, ffdegaard-
Stremmms, Ojut, Koksvik-Thingvold (p. 206), Angvik (p. 206), Eidseven (p. 203),
Fjeseide, Jordal, dksendalen (quarters at the Landhandler's, J. Wirum), and
Opdel. The voyage takes 8 hrs. [From J^ksendalen a road leads to (14 Kil.)
Brands tad, whence a fjeld-route crosses to (ca. 12 Kil.) Hveraas, on the
Eikisdalsvand.]

Another line of steamers ('til Todalen') plies from Christianssund twice
weekly to (7 hrs.) Surendalseren at the head of the Halsefjord (whence
a high-road leads to 0rkedal and Throndhjem, see p. 206) and to (9>/2hrs.)
Todalspren. The steamer returns on the following morning, thus allowing
ample time for a visit to the liltdal. a wild and grand mountain ravine,
enclosed by precipitous rocky walls like those of the Eikisdal (p. 204).
The ravine, which is 7 Engl. M. in length, is traversed by a carriage-road.

A third line of steamers ('til Hevne') plies twice a week to the (6 hrs.)
Vinjefjord, returning the same day.

A fourth steamer ('til Kornstad') traverses the Kvernaesfjord twice
weekly to Eide on the Isingvaag, whence we may drive via the fast station
of (18 Kil.) Julscet to (20 Kil.) Molde (see p. 197). The steamer then turns
totheN.W., and calls at Kornstad, Vevang, and Kornvog on Stemshestcn
(p. 172; in all 4 hrs.).

From Christianssund to Molde and the muuth of the Romsdal, see
Comrnunicationer, No. 2C4.

1 74 Route 20. VALDER0. From Aalesund

From Chmstianssund to Throndhjem (see also p. 205). The
course of the steamer beyond Christianssund is on the whole well
protected by islands, though the larger vessels at first keep to the
open sea. To the W. lies the small island of Grip, to the N. of
which is Gripshelen, affording an unimpeded view of the open sea.
To the right are the lofty islands of Tustere (2920 ft.) and Stab-
ben (2960 ft.), between which are seen the distant snow-mountains
of the Sundal and the Eikisdal. Farther on Ede, with a steam-
boat-station, and the low but extensive Smelen are passed on the
left. The scenery now becomes monotonous. To the N. of Smelen
is the Ramfjord, which separates it from the large island of Hitte-
ren, with the station of Havnen. The only other station which the
large steamers visit is Beian (telegraph-station), at the entrance
to the Throndhjem Fjord, so that travellers can proceed to the
North Cape, without touching at Throndhjem. The scenery im-
proves as we approach our destination.

168 Kil. (IO41/2 M.) Throndhjem, see p. 216.

20. From Aalesund to Hellesylt (Molde) via
0rstenvik and 0ie.

lO'l Kil. (65 Engl. M.). Thi8 route takes two days. From Aalesund
to ffrslenvik, 40 Kil. (2SM.), steamboat ('Gei ranger' and 'Robert') twice weekly
in 3'/2 hrs. (eomp. Communicalioner, 260 C, I)). From 0rstenvik to Swbei,
20 Kil. (I572M.), drive (quarters for the night at Rise, near Sseb0). From
Steb0 to 0ie, 10 Kil. (6 M.), row. From Oie to Hellesylt, 24 Kil. (15 31.),
by carriage. — A steamer plies from Aalesund to Hellesylt direct twice
weekly in 11 hrs. (see p. 172).

This beautiful route, part of which is by water and part by land,
traverses the district of Sendmere. If the traveller, after arriving by this
route at Hellesylt, proceeds to visit the Geiranger Fjord (p. 186) and ascends
from jMaraak to Stavbrsekkene (p. 164), he will then have seen some of
the grandest and most interesting scenery in the whole of Norway. The
district of S/zrndm0re, with its fjords and snow-mountains, comprises all
the characteristic features of the country, the picturesque, the sublime, and
the severe, while the inhabitants ('Meringer'), many of whom are prosper-
ous and wealthy, are still noted for their primitive honesty and simplicity.
— As the stations of 0rstenvik, Rise, and 0ie are 'slow', the traveller
must either send 'Forbud', or run the risk of waiting several hours for
horses at the end of each stage.

Strom's 'S0ndm0res Beskrivelse' (1762-66), a copy of which the station-
master at Brautesset possesses, is recommended to the notice of the tra-
veller as containing, though an old work, the best existing description of
this most attractive district. Another interesting work is Peder Fyllmtfs
'Folksagn fra S0ndm0re' (2 vols.; Aalesund, 1874-77).

Aalesund, see p. 171. The steamer first steers across the ex-
posed Bredsund. To the N.W. lies the Valdere, to the W. the Gode,
and to the E. the Hesei with the pointed Sukkertop ('sugar-loaf'). It
then traverses the Sulefjord to the Hareidland, with the Hareid-
Kirke, an island with mountains nearly 2360 ft. in height, and then
crosses to Sere Vartdal (2 hrs. from Aalesund), on the Vartdals-
fjord. Grand mountain scenery. Numerous ancient coast-levels and
terraces of detritus are observed. Comp. the Map, p. 168.

to Hellesylt. J0RUNDFJORD. 20. Route. 175

We next pass the Liadalshorn (3510 ft.), rising on the mainland
to the E., and enter the 0rstenfjord, at the head of which -we stop
at the station (slow) of 0rstenvik (*Svendseris Inn; the landlord's
daughter speaks English), magnificently situated at the base of the
Saudehorn (4320 ft.), and affording a *View of the picturesque
mountains farther inland. 0rstenvik (like Volden, p. 171) is re-
commended as headquarters for excursions to S. Vartdal (5 hrs.),
the Bomedal, and the Kjelaastind (see below). The valleys are
clothed with rich vegetation.

From 0rstenvik we now drive through the beautiful 0rstendal
or Aamdal, passing the church of 0rsten, and traversing a smiling
district commanded by a noble background of mountains. 5 Kil.
Onarden Aambo, at the entrance to the Follestaddal.

Near Aambo a road diverges to the left and ascends the Follestaddal
to KJelaas (14 Kil. from J0rstenvik), whence the imposing Kjelaastind or
Gluggenlind (4800 ft.; to the left) may he ascended in t> hrs. From Kjo-
laas a hridle-path leads to (8 Kil.) Standal, at the finest part of the Jtfrund-
fjord. Boat hence to Sseb0 (8 Kil.), see below.

Our road to Sseber next ascends an ancient moraine. To the S.
towers the majestic Snehorn (4370 ft.). We then skirt the Vatne-
vand (right).

10 Kil. Vatne (fast station). The road gradually ascends to a
height of 900 ft., passing the entrance to the Bjmrdal on the right,
through which a path leads to the 0stefjord (p. 171). From the top
of the hill and on our descent to Sseb» we enjoy a superb **View
of the Jerundfjord mountains. The Bonddal, which we now de-
scend, contains several farms. On the left the valley is bounded
by the Veirhalden (4010 ft.), the Kalvedalsegg, the Lilledalshorn,
and the Miendalstinder ; on the right by the Aarsethorn (3550 ft.),
the Storhorn (4485 ft.), and the Lillehorn (3550 ft.). On the right,
between these mountains, lie the Slettedal and Kvistadal.

14 Kil. (pay for 20) Rise (a good but unpretending station) is
about 10 min. drive from Sseb*, with its new church, situated on
the Xenrundfjord. This fjord and the Norangsfjord freeze in winter,
while the main fjord remains open. As the 'Baadsskydsskaffer'
lives about 1 Engl. M. from the station, the traveller should lose
no time in ordering a boat with two rowers ('to Mand Rorfolk').

Saeb« forms the best starting-point for a visit to the magnificent
**J«rundfjord (also called Jeringfjord and Hjerendfjord), which
the Norwegians themselves usually consider the finest of all their
fjords. Unfortunately it is not traversed by steamers. From its
entrance, about 12 Engl. M. to the S.E. of Aalesund, it extends
towards the S.E. to Bjerke, a distance of 25 Engl. M., and is
bounded by huge rocky precipices and wild mountain-slopes, above
which peep a number of snow-clad summits. Here, as in other
parts of S»ndmere, the flattened mountains so characteristic of
Norway are replaced by bold and picturesquely formed peaks,
separated from each other by profound ravines and sharply defined

17G Route 20. NORANGSFJORD. From Aalesund

indentations, reminding the traveller of the dolomite mountains
in Tyrol. The grandest part of the scenery is on the side oppo-
site Standal (p. 175), where the Molaupsfjeld raises its mighty
head. To the S. a huge ravine extends to the Tussenuten (4200ft.).
The fjord, as usual, is really a long, narrow valley filled with water.
According to tradition, there once dwelt inthe ' Trolgjel Molawp" a giantess
CGygre'), who was wooed by a giant CJutuV) dwelling in the Raamands-
gjel to the S. of Ssebu. One day she paid him a visit by boat, but found
him in so weakly a condition that she spat at him in disgust and thus
converted him into stone. On her way back she was overtaken by a
storm, and sprang out of the boat between the gaards of Nses and Molaup
with such violence that her foot-print CGygrefeteC) is still to be seen on
the spot. With her other foot she pushed off the boat so vigorously
that it dashed across the fjord, made a deep indentation in the mountain
by Gaarden Stavscet, and then sank. It still lies there in the form of the
Stavswtflu, a rock where the best fishing in the fjord is obtained.

About 5 Kil. (3 Engl. M.) to the S. of Sseber is the gaard of Skaar,
with the waterfall of that name. Above Sseb/ar the Jj&rundfjord becomes
narrower and wilder, being a huge ravine bounded by almost perpendicular
mountains nearly 5000 ft. in height. From Bjerke at the S. end (15 Kil.
from Sseb#; Inn), which lies several hundred feet above the fjord, the
traveller may pay a visit to the Tyssefos, and drive via Rerstad and Rueid
to Kaldvatn, and thence over the Kviven to Hornindal (p. 184). An interest-
ing trip by boat may also be taken to the Raamandsgjel with the Raa-
mand rising to the S. of Hustadsnceset. — Those who wish to see the
grandeur of the fjord properly should go at least as far as Finnces, a small
and characteristic fishing village, just short of Bjerke. The Tyssefos is
visible from Finnses.

At Saebe the Jerundfjord is about 2 Engl. M. in breadth. Oppos-
ite Ssebe, at Oaarden Leknces (fine view from the hill above), is
the entrance to the *Norangsfjord, the only branch of the Jerund-
fjord. To the rightrisethe Blaahorn (4500ft.), the Jagta (5240 ft.),
and the Middagshorn (4353 ft.), on the left the Saksa, Klokseggen,
and Slogen, and at the head of the fjord lies a glacier. The No-
rangsfjord resembles a large and sequestered Alpine lake. On the
right, at the base of the lofty and menacing Stolbjerg, is Stennces,
with its two gaards. Farther on is the Elgenaafos.

10 Kil. gie {Phcenix Hotel, with 13 rooms, well spoken of), con-
sists of two gaards at the head of the Norangsfjord. Some of the
interesting houses have the old-fashioned Ljor, or aperture for
smoke in the roof. To facilitate the carrying of pails the peasantry
here use a '/?isse', or leathern strap over the shoulders, with a
transverse piece of wood across the chest, from which the pails
(lDailf) are hung. The view from the Slogen (5140 ft.), which is
ascended hence with a guide (J. Klok), is said by Mr. Slingsby to
be one of the best in Norway. — Boat from 0ie to SaBb» jU/s kr.

From 0ie we may drive all the way to Hellesylt, but the road
to Haugen is bad and at places even dangerous. If 'Forbud' has not
been sent to 0ie, travellers must be prepared to wait several hours.

Leaving 0ie, we ascend the strikingly wild and picturesque
*Norangsdal, which forms the prolongation of the fjord. The
road ascends gradually to an upper plateau of the valley with a
series of lakes, immediately beyond which the Nebbedal descends

to Hellesylt. NEBBEDAL. 20. Route. 177

to the E., the highest ground between the two valleys being about
940 ft. above the sea-level (comp. p. 132). A little way from 0ie
the road crosses a 'Balte1, or rising neck of land, and enters a broad
basin, containing the hamlet of Skylstad, from whose inhabitants
the sun is shut out during the greater part of the year.

A grand but fatiguing path leads hence to the N.E. across "Skylslad-
brekken (2590 ft.) , between Slogen and Smerskredfjeldet , to Strcmden on
the Sunelv (p. 188), and thence to theN.W., via Gaarden Brunstad (road
beyond this point) to Aure in Sekelven (p. 188). Imposing scenery. — The
Skylstadbrekken may also be combined with an ascent of the Slogen (p. 176)
or Smerskredfjeld.

The valley is bounded on the S. by the Middagshorn (4355 ft.)
and the Reipen, and on the N. by the Smer shred fj eld (5240 ft. ;
flrst ascended by Mr. Slingsby in 1884). The road now quits the
inhabited part of the valley and ascends through a stony wilderness
(Ur), under which several mountain-torrents disappear. The No-
rangsdals-Elv is crossed twice. By the second bridge the scenery is
singularly impressive. The mountains rise perpendicularly from the
valley, and avalanches which have descended from them cover the
river at places, forming bridges of snow in summer. Above us rises
the precipitous Staven (4960 ft.), under the shade of whose rocks
the cattle seek refuge from the midday heat. Farther on, the valley
suddenly expands, and we reach the Stavbergsvand, the first of
four lakes lying one above another. At its E. end are the three
(Stavberg-Scetre). The road now skirts the hill to the S. The
last lake but one loses most of its water in dry seasons, when it
is reduced to a single pool near its outlet. The highest point of
the road lies 940 ft. above the sea.

14 Kil. Fibelstad-Haugen (1215 ft. ; Haugeris Hotel, English
spoken ; fast station) , in the upper part of the *Nebbedal , is a
good starting-point for mountain -excursions to the Jerundfjord
and the Sekelvfjord (p. 188). The station is surrounded by most
imposing mountains. To the S.W. rise the Kviteggen (5585 ft. ;
ascended in 4-5 hrs.) and the Bjernstifjeld (4928 ft.), to the E. is
the Fibelstadnibben, with its abrupt wall of "rock, and to the W.,
beyond the Skar, towers the Smerskredfjeld. A fine route leads
through the Kvitelvdal to Bjerke (p. 185).

Leaving Fibelstad-Haugen , so called to distinguish it from
Indre Haugen on the road to Grodaas (p. 184), we observe to the
left, beyond the Fibelstadnibben, the Scetredal and Tryggestad-Nak-
ken, and to the right the Blaafjeld. The Nebbedal, with its pastures
sprinkled with birches, presents a pleasant appearance in summer,
but is described by Magdalene Thoresen in her village-tales as
a most dismal and dangerous place in winter and spring , when
avalanches are frequently precipitated into it. About 6 Kil. from
Haugen we reach Tryggestad on the Hornindal and Hellesylt road.
From this point a good road descends to (1 1 Kil.) Hellesylt(see p. 185) .

From Hellesylt to Molde^ see R. 21.

IJaedeker's Norwav and Sworton Ath Fd:*. ^2

178

21. Overland Route from Bergen to Aalesund and

Molde.

Gomp. the Maps at pp. 108, 168, and 200, which join each other, as indicated
in the general map at the end of the book.

The 'overland route' from Bergen to Molde (or to Aalesund), a con-
siderable part of which, however, is by water, is far preferable to the
direct steamboat-voyage. It passes some of the grandest and wildest glacier
and fjord scenery in Norway, all of which lies so near the road that it
is easily surveyed from the traveller's Stolkjferre or boat.

404 Kil. (250 Engl. M.). Steamboat from Bergen to Vadheim (141 Kil.
or 871/2 Engl. M.) thrice weekly in 7-10 hrs. (fares 7 kr. 60, 4 kr. 25 e. ;
comp. Communicationer , No. 252 A). — Road from Vadheim to Ferde i
Bredheim, 87 Kil. (54 M.J. — Steamboat from F0rde to Red (12 Kil. or
7V2 M.) thrice daily in l'/a hr. — Road from Red to Utviken, 17 Kil.
(10'/2 M.), from Moldestad over a very steep and high hill, which is best
surmounted on foot. — Boat from Utviken to Faleide, 11 Kil. or 7 51.
(a row of 2 hrs.), or Steamboat (twice weekly ; see Communicationer,
No. 252 B). — Road from Faleide to Hellesylt, 46 Kil. (28'/2 M.). —
.Steamboat from Hellesylt thrice weekly to Sjeholt (51 Kil. or 31 '/a M.) in
63/4 hrs. (comp. Communicationer, No. 258). — Road from Sj0holt to Vest-
■na's, 26 Kil. (16 M.). — Steamboat from Vestnses to Molde (13 Kil. or
8 M.) 6 times weekly in 1 hr. (or by small boat in 2'/a-3 hrs.).

Plan op Excursion. This route may easily be accomplished by a
good walker in five or six days, if he so times his departure from Bergen
as to catch the steamer from Hellesylt to Mferaak. The following outlines
may be useful for ordinary travellers with luggage, and especially if
ladies are of the party, but they may be modified at pleasure, and they
are of course dependent on the steamboat time-tables, with reference to
which they are framed. Those who can devote 10-12 days or more to
this route should make Faleide, Visnses, or Old0ren their headquarters
for the magnificent mountain-excursions mentioned below, and Hellesylt
their starting-point for a visit to the Norangsfjord (see R. 20) and the
mountain-pass at the head of the Geiranger Fjord. The tour thus extend-
ed will then embrace far more of Norway's sublimest scenery than could
be seen in any other part of the cotmtry in the same time.

Five Days (vid Vadheim). 1st. On Saturday from Bergen by steamer
to Vadheim, and drive to Nedre-Vasenden. 2nd. Sunday at Nedre-Vasenden.
(Or on Saturday to Sande only, and on Sunday to Nedre-Vasenden.) 3rd.
On Monday to Utviken. 4th. On Tuesday to Hellesylt. 5th. On Wednesday
by steamer to Sjeiholl, drive to Veslnws, and cross by boat to Molde (or
by steamer from Hellesylt to Aalesund). — Or we may proceed by steamer
from Hellesylt through the picturesque Norangsfjord and Je/ruildfjord to
Sceb0, drive thence to 0rstenvik, and again by steamer to Aalesund. Comp.
R. 20.

Seven Days (vid Vadheim). 1st day. On Monday or Friday at midnight
by steamer from Bergen to Vadheim, and drive to Sande. 2nd day.
To Nedre-Vasenden. 3rd day. To Utviken. 4th dav. To Orodaas. 5th dav.
To Hellesylt. 6th day. To Mceraak. 7th day. To' Aalesund or Molde. (Or
spend Sunday at Sjeholt.)

Five Days (vid Sveen on the Dalsfjord). As the scenery between
Vadheiin and Ferde on the Ftfrdefjord is of little interest, while the
Dalsfjord and the F0rdefjord are well worth seeing, the traveller may
prefer, if the S0ndfjord steamboat suits, to travel by it as far as Sveen
on the Dalsfjord (13 hrs.), or to Ferde on the F0rdefjord (22 hrs.), and
begin his overland journey from one of these points. The Stfndfjord

steamer usually leaves Bergen on Wednesdays at midnight. 1st Day.

On Wednesday from Bergen to Sveen, and drive on Thursday to Nedre-
Vasenden, or, still better, to Ferde at the E. end of the F0rdefjord (or
take the Nordfjord steamer to Flore (p. 167), and thence drive to F0rde).
2nd. On Friday to Faleide. 3rd. On Saturday to Hellesylt and Mwraak.
4th. On Sunday to Aalesund or Molde. (Or spend Sunday at Sjeholl as

INDRE HOLMEDAL. 21. Route. 179

above.) — Or : — On Wed. night by the same steamer to Ferde on the
Ferdefjord. 2nd. To Utviken. 3rd. To Mceraak. 4th. To Aalesund or Molde.

[In the reverse direction : 1st day. From Molde to Sjeholt. 2nd day.
To Hellesylt. 3rd day. Visit Geiranger Fjord (p. 186 ; twice weekly by steamer,
at other times by rowing-boat), and proceed to Utviken. 4th day. To
Nedre-Vasenden. 5th day. To Sande, or even to Vadheim. 6th day. To
Bergen or to Lwrdalseiren (p. 99) or to Oudvangen (p. 110).

With the exception of the first three (Vadheim, Sande, and Lange-
land) all the stations are fast. Even in Vadheim there are generally
carriages enough in waiting on the arrival of the steamer, and those may
be taken as far as F0rde. Those, however, who are in a special hurry,
should make sure by sending 'Forbud' (p. xxi). — Tariff for 'skyds', see
pp. xxii, xxiii.

The only good Inns are at Vadheim, Sande, Ferde on the Fi-frdefjord,
Nedre-Vasenden, Red, Utviken, Faleide, Orodaas, Mwraak, and Sjeholl.
Tolerable quarters at Hellesylt (p. 185).

Good descriptions of the scenery on this fine route are given in Finn's
Turistbref fran en Resa i Norge Sommaren 1875 (Stockholm, 1876), Daae's
Norske Bygdesagn (Christiania, 1872) , FyUing's Folksagn (see p. 174), and
Magdalene Thoresen's Billeder fra Vestkysten af Norge (Copenhagen, 1872),

The steamboat voyage from Bergen to Vadheim takes 7-10 hrs.;
see pp. 117, 116.

Vadheim or Vadem (slow station ; Hansen's Hotel, by the pier) is
prettily situated at the head of a northern bay of the Sogncfjord
(see p. 116). To the W. is a waterfall with a manufactory, above
which rises the Noreviksheia. Comp. the Map, p. 108.

Between Vadheim and the Nordfjord the road skirts the W.
side of the imposing mountains which are covered by the im-
mense Jostedalsbra? (p. 100), the largest glacier in Norway, whence
a number of offshoots descend to the vicinity of dark green fjords
and lakes. — On leaving Vadheim we at first gradually ascend the
Vadheimsdal, which is enclosed by walls of rock 1500-2000 ft. in
height. The first gaard, situated on the left, is Ytre Dalen, which
is somewhat exposed to danger from avalanches. The sun is visible
here in winter only for a very short time. The road next ascends
between the Dregebonipen on the right and the Fagersletnipen
('2995 ft.) on the left. On a rocky height to the left lie the gaards
of Dregebo, beyond which the road returns to the left bank of the
river. It then skirts the Lower Yxlandsvand, and crosses to the
W. side of the valley just before reaching the dark Upper Yxlands-
vand (430 ft.) The watershed is crossed near the gaards of Aare-
berge (535 ft.), situated to the right , on the bank of a small lake
in a basin surrounded by mountains. To the N. rises the imposing
Kvamshest (4065 ft. ; see below). Passing Gaarden Lofald on the
right and the parsonage of that name on the left, we cross the
Quia or Holmedals-Elv , and reach —

15 Kil. Sande (*Sivertsen's Inn, comfortable, b1/^ kr. per day),
a slow station, in the Indre Holmedal, with a church and several
gaards. To the S. rises Dregebonipen (see above), adjoining which
are the Hegehei (2850 ft.) and the Stenscetfjeld (2470 ft.). To
the N. W. towers the majestic Kvandalsfjeld (3325 ft.).

12*

180 Route l' 1. F0KDE. From Bergen

A pleasant Walk may be taken from Sande to (6 Kil.) Horsevik, on
the Viksvand (525 ft.), which aft'ords tolerable fishing. On an island near
the N. bank is the church of Hcestad. To the left rises the Kvandalsfjeld.

A pleasant Drive may be taken to the slow station of (14 Kil.) Eide-
iHk, near Sveen (p. 167), whence we may go on by boat to Dale (p. 167).
From Dale a picturesque but hilly road (40 Kil;. slow stations only) leads
to Befjord on the Sognefjord (p. 117).

Horsevik lies about 14 Kil. (8V2 Bngl. M.) from Vik, at the N.E. end
of the lake, whither we may proceed by boat. From Vik a road leads
through the Haukedal, where the river forms a series of magnificent falls
and rapids , to (7 Kil.) Mosladhawg on the Haukedalsvand, whence we
row to Rervik, situated on the W. bank, 4 Kil. to the N. (also a path
along the W. bank of the lake, 6 Kil.). A cart-track leads hence to
Holsen and along the Holsenvcmd to (16 Kil.) Mo (p. 181). This route is
more interesting and picturesque than the one described below, but is
recommended to active walkers only.

If the traveller has not secured a carriage at Vadheim all the
■way to Ferde, he should try to do so at Sande. Otherwise, unless he
has ordered horses by Forbud, he will probably undergo a detention
of several hours at Langeland. Travellers in the opposite direction
are generally permitted by the station-master at F»rde to go on
without change of horses.

On leaving Sande the road passes the church on the left, and
ascends rapidly to the right to Gaarden Tunvald at the base of
the Tunvaldfjeld. Fine retrospect. The hilly road then passes the
Lundsgrenen on the right and reaches a height commanding a
view of the Dalsfjord (in Sandfjord) mountains (p. 167); in the
distance the Lekelandshest, nearer the Kvamshest or Store Hest
(4065 ft. J, which farther on bears a remarkable resemblance to a
huge horse , and of the smiling basin of Lundebygd at our feet.
Beyond this basin we reach the gaards of Skilbred, on the moor-
land banks of the Skilbredsvand, whence we enjoy an unimpeded
view of the Kvamshest and Lillehest (2985 ft. ; to the N.E.), with
the snow -field between them. In clear weather these mountains
are reflected in the lake. We then pass several pleasant gaards.

11 Kil. (pay for 14 in this direction) Langeland (poor station),
situated at the S. end of a lake about 2^2 Kil. in length, the
hilly "W. bank of which our road traverses, while the road to Sveen
(p. 167) descends to the left. Our road passes the saeters of Espe-
land and Hafstad, at the N. end of the lake, and reaches its
highest point (about 1150 ft.), commanding a fine view of the valley
of Ferde and the imposing mountains at the head of the Angedal
(to the N.). Only a small triangular portion of the Ferdefjord is
visible. The hilly road next descends past the saeters of Prceste-
gaard and Halbrand, skirts the Solheimsheia (1265 ft.) on the left,
passes the Halbrandsfos on the right, and reaches —

11 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 14) Hafstad i F«rde
(*/nn,D.2kr.), the chief place in the district of Send fjord, situated
1 Engl. M. from the head of the Ferdefjord (steamers on the fjord,
see p. 167). On the opposite side of the Jelster-Elr, which is here
crossed by a large bridge, are the Telegraph Office and the Church,

to Molde. NEDRE VASENDEN. 21. Route. 181

the latter situated on an ancient moraine. Horses are bred extensively
here and on the Nordfjord, and the so-called 'Fjordrace' is believed
to be the original Norwegian type. — To the N. rises Ferdenipen
(2825 ft.), to the E. the Viefjeld (2210 ft.) and the mountains
round the Holsenvand, and to theS.W. the Solheimsheia (1265 ft.).
A pleasant walk may be taken along the Jelster-Elv to the pier on the
fjord, of which little is seen from this point. Another may be taken
to the (Y2 hr.) Halbrandsfos, on the way to Langeland (see above).

On leaving Ferde we obtain a view to the left of the Angedal,
at the head of which rise the Sandfjeld (4100 ft.) and the Kupe-
fjeldene(il90 ft.). Our road traverses the well-cultivated valley of
the Jelster-Elv, and passes the Viefjeld on the left. Near the gaards
of Bruland, which lie on an alluvial terrace, the stream forms the
pretty Brulandsfos. The road then crosses the long Farsundebro,
at the end of the clear Movatten (75 ft.), through which the stream
flows, and skirts its N. bank. A fine view is enjoyed here of the
Sanddalsfjeld to the N.E., the Halvgjcerde to the E., and the Aasen-
fjeld to the S., while in the distance appear several offshoots of the
Jostedalsbra? . Beyond the Movatten we pass on the right the agri-
cultural school ( Landbrugsskole) of Mo. A few minutes farther on
is the line Huldrefos, in the midst of park-like scenery. After
20 min. drive through a solitary pine-forest we pass on the right
the road to Holsen and Haukedal, mentioned at p. 180. The culti-
vation decreases as the road ascends. At the gaard of Flaata we
obtain a fine view of the Jygrafjeld to the N. and the Sanddalsfjeld
to the S. of the Jelstervand, at the W. end of which lies —

19 Kil. NedreVasenden (tolerable quarters, cuisine well spoken
of, R.l kr., B. 80, S. 90 0.), 'lower end of the water'. The row along
the Jalstervand is pleasant but rather long, and the very small and
slow steamer is still less recommended (fare to Aardal 1 kr. 7 ».).
Before continuing this journey travellers should take a walk across
the bridge over the Jelster-Elv, which here forms some fine rapids.

The road now runs along the N. bank of the pretty *J«rlster-
vand (670 ft.), which is about 14 Engl. M. in length from E. to
W. On the N. side it is bounded by the Jygrafjeld, and on the S.
by the Sanddalsfjeld , the Klana, the Orken , and the Sadeleggen.
On the S. side , which is called by the natives the 'Nordside' on
account of its facing the N., appear several stretches of the Grove-
brm and the Jostedalsbrfe, and at the head of the Kjesnasfjord,
which diverges to the S.E., is the blueish-green Glacier of Lunde,
descending from the N. Both banks of the lake are studded with
gaards, most of them on the 'Solside'. The lake and the stream
flowing out of it contain excellent trout. The road skirts the base
of the Jygrafjeld and reaches the gaards of Sviddal, at the mouth
of the Bergsdal. It then traverses the fertile Aalhusbygd, passing
the entrances of the Nedrebedal and 0vrebednl, skirts the Bjersat-
fjeld (3310 ft.), and crosses the Aurduh-Elu.

182 Route 21. BREDHEIMSVAND. From Bergen

15 Kil. Aardal (*Inn, unpretending and moderate), command-
ing a line view of the gaards of Myklebostad. — A little beyond
Aardal we pass the new church of Helgheim. Opposite opens the
Kjesncesfjord (6 Engl. M. long), at the E. end of which lies the
gaard of Lunde (pass to Fjaerland, see p. 115). To the N. of the
Kjesnaesfjord rises the Bjerga (5510 ft.) and to the S. the Seg-
nesandnipa (4965 ft.).

At the upper end of the lake is 0vre Vasenden or Skei. Tra-
vellers in the reverse direction who fail in procuring horses here
should proceed by boat instead of on foot.

The road now surmounts a small watershed and then leads to
the N. through a broad valley, containing the Feglevand and the
Skredevand , the amount of water in which varies considerably.
To the E. the Fosheimfos descends from the Bjerga (see above). The
scenery becomes really fine when we reach the Bolscetvand, be-
yond which lie the Stardal and several glaciers of the Jostedalsbrae.

Pedestrians who are willing to forego a visit to the Bredheimsvand
may proceed from Skei by the good skyds-road (no tariff; arrange be-
forehand) to the E., through the Stardal, to Aamot (bad quarters, at
Tolleif Aamot's), and walk thence (with a guide, arrange terms before-
hand) across the Oldenskar (6130 ft.) to Rusleen (good quarters), at the
end of the Oldenvand (p. 193). This expedition, through magnificent
scenery, should be undertaken only by practised walkers (2 hrs. to the
foot of the Aamotbrw, 2 hrs. to its highest point; and about l'/a hr.
more for the steep and fatiguing descent). — This tour is better done in
the opposite direction, as the difficult ascent from Mselkevold to the top
of the pass comes first, and the rest of the way to Aamot is a gradual
descent, while the poor quarters at Aamot may be avoided. The stages
are as follows : from Old0ren to Eide, or by boat across the Oldenvand to
Rustsien, 2Vz hrs.; thence (with guide) via Mselkevold to the top of the fjeld
(steep and difficult), l3/i hr.; to the head of the pass, V2 hr.; to the Aamot-
brae, H/'hr.; to Aamot, l'A hr. A guide is indispensable between the pass
and Mselkevold (in either direction), but cannot always be found at Aamot.

Another magnificent valley is the Vaatedal, which runs parallel to
the Bredheimsvand on the E. and is reached by a somewhat toilsome path
from the Stardal. From JSgge, at the end of this path, a road leads to
Moldeslad (p. 183) or Red.

From Aamot a comparatively easy pass leads across the Jostedalsbrae
to Langedalen and on to Solvorn (p. 103) or Fjserland (p. 114).

The beautiful but hilly road now follows the bank of the Stor-
elc and then skirts the small Paulsvand. The Skjorta (4090 ft.) is
here conspicuous to the W. To the right, shortly before reach-
ing Farrde , we pass the precipitous Kupenaava , the valley below
which is strewn with huge blocks of rock.

16 Kil. (pay for 19) Ferdt i Bredheim (telegraph-station), a
poor hamlet, lies near the S. end of the *Bredheimsvand, or
Breumsvand (200 ft. ; 900 ft. deep), here called the Ferdefjord, a
magnificent lake about 10 Engl. M. in length, enclosed by impos-
ing mountains. Comp. the Maps, pp. 108, 168. — The road ter-
minates here, at a lofty old moraine, and we proceed either in a
rowing-boat or by one of the steamers mentioned on next page. To
the left rises the precipitous Skjorta, with the Oamledalsfos, to the
right the dizzy heights of the Svenskenipa (4770 ft.). The Myklands-

to Molde. UTVIKEN. 21. Route. 183

dal is next passed on the left , and the Ordal on the right. To the
N. , in the background, rises the Duneggen (3650 ft.). Farther on the
Skarstenfjeld rises to the left. Beyond this point is the Ncesdal, to
the left, with several gaards. Shortly before reaching Red -we pass
the mouth of the Vaatedals-Elv , and see several offshoots of the
Jostedalsbrse at the head of the Bredheimsdal.

12 Kil. Red (Victoria-Hotel, with the skyds-station, well spoken
of; Hotel Gordon, also well spoken of, English landlord, D. 2 kr.),
picturesquely situated on the E. bank of the Bredheimsvand, near
the church of Bredheim. The small steamers 'Victoria', and 'Gor-
don', belonging to the hotels, ply twice daily to Ferde, starting
at 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., and returning at noon and 7 p.m.

At the X.W. end of the lake, which is unattractive beyond this point,
lies Vasenden (road to this point in progress), whence an excellent road
crosses the Eid (255 ft.) to (4 Kil.) Sandene on the Gtoppenfjord (p. 168).

The road to Utviken gradually ascends the N. side of the fertile
Bredheimsdal, passing several pleasant gaards. Beyond Flote a
road on the right diverges to the Bergemsvand.

Moldestad , a group of farms about 500 ft. above the lake,
commands a fine view of the valley and the Jostedalsbrae. A road
to Fosheim and Myklebostad, on the Sanddalsvand, here branches
off to theE.

From Fosheim a fine glacier-path leads over the slope of the Store
Ceciliekrona to Olden (p. 192). — Myklebostad is the starting-point for an
ascent of the Snenipa ("6060 ft.), the highest point of the glacier-district to
the W. of the Oldenvand.

About 3/4 hr. beyond Moldestad we obtain a striking view of
the whole Bredheimsbygd, the large valleys to the E. and S.,
and the Bredheimsvand. The most conspicuous mountains are :
the Ojetenyken (5825 ft.), with its huge glaciers, towering above
the Sanddalsvand to the E. ; the Vora and the pointed Eggenibba
to the S., between the Sanddalsvand and the Bergemsvand; to the
W., the Raadfjeld; to the S.W., the Skarstenfjeld (see below),
overshadowing the Bredheimsvand. On reaching the top of the
hill we find ourselves in a desolate mountain-plateau (2065 ft.),
strewn with blocks of rock brought down by the glaciers and with
small moorland ponds. The Skarstenfjeld, with its sharply defined
outline and large 'botn', is now very conspicuous to the S.W. From
the N. margin of the plateau we obtain a beautiful *View of the
Indvikfjord, and of the Laudalstinder, Hornindalsrokken (p. 185),
and other mountains to the N. We now descend by a new zigzag
path (walking preferable), commanding occasional views of the
Jostedalsbrse, to (3/4 hr.) —

17 Kil. (pay for 20) Bruland i TItviken (*Loeris Inn, R. 1.
B. 1, S. 1 kr.), prettily situated on the Indvikfjord. — A steam-
boat plies from Utviken to Faleide twice weekly (see Communi-
cationer, 252 A) in liAhr. If the steamer does not suit we take
a rowing-boat (with 2 men, 2]/4 kr.). On starting we see the Selv-
bergfjeld with several gaards to the left, at the foot of which is the

184 Route 21. GRODAAS. From Bergen

breeding-place of a colony of Skarvers, a kind of gull. In a bay to
the right lie the church and hamlet of Indviken. By Indviken
opens the wild Prcestedal, enclosed by the Skarstenfjeld (5384 ft.)
on the N. and the Sterlaugpik (2270 ft.) on the S. We then skirt the
promontory of Hildehalsen, and reach —

11 Kil. Faleide (^Tenden's Hotel, one of the best in Norway,
R. 1 kr. 20 *>., B. 1, S. 1, D. 2 kr., English spoken; fast station;
several good guides here), pleasantly situated on the N. bank of
the fjord, and called at by the Bergen and Nordfjord steamers (see
Communicationer, No. 252 B). Faleide is a good starting-point
for a variety of excursions and is often full of English and Amer-
ican visitors. In the height of the season it is sometimes difficult
to get on hence without pre-arrangement, as all the horses may be
engaged. Towards the E. the view is bounded by a magnificent
background of mountains : to the left the serrated Aarheimsfjeld
(2020 ft.), to the right of which rise the huge Skaalnn (6355 ft.),
in the distance, and the Auflemsfjeld (5090 ft.), somewhat nearer;
to the S. is the Algjelfjeld (2780 ft.), overtopped by the Skarsten-
fjeld (5060 ft.).

Excursions from Faleide : to the N. to the gaard of Lang e- Scat e>- (about.
820 ft.); to the E., along the bank of the lake, to the gaard of Svarvestad,
which is fitted up in an old-fashioned style; by boat to Indviken and
thence on foot to the Prwstedal (see above), or to the Skarstenfjeld (see
above; ascent in 4-5 hrs. ; celebrated view); by boat in l'/^hr. to Rake and
thence to the top of the Opheimsfj eld (see p. 189) ; or finally to the im-
posing glacier-valleys of Olden, Slryn, and Loen (R. 22), spending the
night at Oldfjren, Visnfes, or Loen, so as to shorten the 10-12 hrs. expeditions.
Loen is a good centre for excursions. — Boat with two rowers from
Faleide to Olden or Loen 2 kr. 40 0.

If the inn at Faleide is full , the traveller may proceed to Vis-
iias (Inn), 6 Kil. farther up, and the last steamboat-station ; or
he may row across the fjord to (14 Kil.) Olderen (p. 192).

The Road from Faleide to Hellesylt at first ascends rapidly
to a height of 800 ft. above the sea, commanding fine retrospective
views of the fjord and the Skarstenfjeld (see above). It then descends
through a somewhat uninteresting wooded district, passing the
gaards of Lange-Smter , Flore, and Sindre, to the Kjesbunden, the
»S.E. arm of the Hornindalsvand. In descending we have frequent
views of the Holmefjeld to the W., the Oulekop to the N., etc..

12 Kil. (pay for 17) Kjes. The next stage, from Kjera to
Grodaas, may be performed by water ; but although the road is hilly,
it is quicker to drive along the banks of the lake.

The Hornindalsvand is the geological prolongation of theEids-
fjord (p. 168), 175 ft. above the level of the sea and 1500 ft. in
depth. From Vedvik and Nord (p. 168) to Grodaas it is 14i/2 Engl.
M. in length (steamboat 'Delen', thrice weekly in 3'.'.2 hrs.). To
the N., opposite the mouth of the Kjesbunden, opens the Oterdal,
extending between the Snetuen (3640 ft.) on the left and the
Hornsnakken on the right.

6 Kil. (pay for 8) Grodaas (L. P. Navelsakers Hotel, English

to Molde. HELLESYLT. 21. Route. 185

spoken; Raftevold's Hotel, both good, the latter less expensive, D.
1 '/2 kr.), charmingly situated at the E. end of the Hornindalsvand,near
the church of Hornindal, which we pass in continuing our journey.
«v,nJ*0m Hor"indal a bridle -path (guide desirable) crosses tlie Kvivm
(27HO ft.?) or (finer) the Hjortedalskar, a little farther to the N. (good view
of the Hornindalsrokken from the height to the right of the pass) t.i
(4-5 hrs.) the skyds-station Kaldvatn, whence we mav drive towards' the
E. to (12 Kil.) BJerke on the Jenmdfjord (p. 175), or to the W. to (7Kil.)
Fevde on the Gstefjord, on which a boat may be taken to (18 Kil )
Volden (p. 171).

From Grodaas the road ascends the Hornindal, passing several
pleasant gaards, the Denefos, and the entrance to the Hjortdal.
Farther up the valley expands and is bounded on both sides by
snow-clad mountains. On the right rise the Gulekop, the Seelje-
saterhorn (2210 ft.), and the Mulsvorhom (2700 ft.) ; to the left,
the Brakeggen (4320 ft.) and Lilledalseggen. Below the Seelje-
sreterhorn opens the Knudsdal.

9 Kil. (pay for 11, but not in the reverse direction) Indre
Haugen, a poor station. The station-master is an intelligent man.
who acts as a guide to the Hornindalsrokken, etc. A carriole may
be hired here for (20 Kil.) Fibelstad-Haugen. — A little farther on
we have a view to the left of the Hornindalsrokken (5015 ft.), an
almost inaccessible-looking peak, rising from a side-valley (ascent
from Haugen in 10 hrs., driving practicable for 2 hrs.). We then
cross the boundary of Sandmere and enter the Romsdalsamt.

6 Kil. Kjelstadli (1390 ft.). Travellers on their way to the N.
do not usually stop here, while those coming in the reverse direction
(from Hellesylt) change horses here and pass Indre Haugen without
stopping.

Beyond Kjelstadli we enter another grand mountainous region.
To the left opens the valley of Kjelstad , with the gaard of the
same name and several glaciers ; to the right the Rerhusdal, with
the pointed Rerhusnibba. The road descends to Trom«od(1130ft.),
formerly a station, a little to the N. of which, by Tryggestad, opens
the Nebbedal (p. 177). Fine view of the Fibelstadsnibba. The
road descends along the left bank of the Sundals-Elv, the valley of
which soon contracts to a profound ravine. To the left opens the
Mulskreddal. Splendid view of the Sunelvfjord and its mountains.
The road crosses the stream, passes the church of Sunelven, and
reaches —

13 Kil. Hellesylt (Magnus/ten's Hotel, Jergen Tryggestad' s Inn,
both mediocre, B., B., or S. 1, D. li/2 kr. ; steamer, see below), with
the church of Sunelven, grandly situated at the head of the Sunelvs-
fjord, an arm of the Storfjord. Avalanches (Sneskred) often fall
here in winter. J»rgen Tryggestad is the tenant of the HeUet-
vand, 3Vo Engl. M. distant, which affords good fishing. — Comp.
the Map, p. 168.

From Hellesylt a pleasant -Excursion (a day there and back) may
be made to the Nebbedal and the Novungsfjord (p. 176), driving to Fibet-

186 Route 21. MAERAAK. From Bergen

slad-Haugen (p. 177) and 0ie (p. 176). From 0ie we row as far as the
J^rundfjord and then return (2'/;>-3 hrs.).

Fkom Hellesylt to the Steynsvand, 25 Kil. We drive up the valley
to the S.E., passing the fine waterfalls of (8 Kil.,) Dene/os and Frejsefos,
to Bjergdal, whence a footpath leads via the j0vre Flo Salter to Flo, on
the Strynsvand (see p. 190; boat probably not found at Flo).

The steamer 'Touristen', belongingto J. Tryggestad (p. 185; comp.
Communicationer , 258) and the 'Geiranger' and 'Robert' {Communi-
r.alioner, 260 B) ply thrice weekly (also 'Extraturer' in the season)
from Hellesylt to Maeraak, Sjeholt, and Aalesund. The 'Touristen'
may be hired on off-days for 20 kr. On one of their voyages the
'Geiranger and 'Robert' do not touch at Maeraak, and on these
occasions they may generally be hired to -visit the Geiranger Fjord
for an extra payment. It is advisable to enquire on the spot as to
the hours of sailing. — A small boat takes 3-4 hrs. to go from
Hellesylt to Mxraak.

About 3 Kil. to the N. of Hellesylt, on the E. side of the Sun-
elvsfjord, diverges the **Geiranger Fjord, abounding in beautiful
waterfalls, which, however, are apt to dwindle in hot summers. At
the entrance to it are the Nokkenebfjeld (Aeft, 'beak'; 4370 ft.), on
the right, and the gaard of Madvik on the left. In winter when the
avalanches descend from the Stabbefonn, above the Nokkeneb,
the windows at Madvik are frequently broken by the concussion.
On the right, farther up the fjord, rise the Liadalsnibba (4835 ft.)
and Qjerkelandseggen (4940 ft.), on the left the Orauthorn (4425 ft.).
The fjord now contracts. On the N. (left) side, near Oaarden Knivs-
flaa, are the Knivsflaafosser or 'Seven Sister Waterfalls', of which
only four are now visible, formed by the Knivselv, and falling over
a perpendicular cliff into the fjord. Above them towers the Gjeit-
fjeldtind (5145 ft.), and farther on is the Gjeitfondegg (4800 ft,).
On the S. bank lies the gaard of Sknggcflaa, in an apparently in-
accessible site, about 1600 ft. above the fjord, and reached by a
precipitous and dizzy path. Near the gaard is the Skaggeflaafos or
Gjeitfos. In the vicinity is a deep ravine with the Jutulbro ('giant
bridge'). On both sides of the fjord are seen numerous small water-
falls, some of which descend in the form of spray or mist, betray-
ing their existence only by the disturbed state of the water into
which they fall. Others descend from overhanging cliffs in a veil-
like form, and are best seen from one side. In cloudy weather,
when the tops of the mountains are shrouded in vapour, the water-
falls seem to fall directly from the clouds. Shortly before reaching
Maeraak we pass several curious rocks, assuming the shapes of
grotesque profiles. To the left are the veil-like Aafjeldfos and the
gaard of Grande. Fine view of the mountain-background towards
the E. At the head of the fjord, about I2V2 EngB M. from Helle-
sylt, lies —

Mmrftftly ftr Met ok (* Martin Merok's Inn, R., B., or >S. 1 kr.; Geir-
anger Hotel, well spoken of), picturesquely situated. Maeraak com-
mands a view of a very small part of the fjord only, but the Sloreira,

to Molde. NORDDALSJORD. 21. Route. 187

5 min. higher, enjoys a wide and beautiful prospect. An interesting
excursion may he taken hence to the Storsceterfos (2000 ft. above the
sea-level, about 3 hrs. there and back, a stiff climb ; guide 1-2 kr.).

In the background, behind SIteraak, rises the Slorbaren (5785 ft.), which
is skirted by the fine new road to Grotlid (p. 163) and Weaker (p. 162) in
the Gudbrandsdal. This magnificent route should if possible be visited
from Mseraak as far as the vFjeldstue' or refuge-hut at the foot of the
Stavbrcekkene (by carriage 7-8 hrs. there and back). About 4 Kil. from
Mseraak is the gorge of "Flydalsjuvet, recently made accessible.

The steamer returns from Mseraak to the Sunelvsfjord, which
is bounded on the W. by the Aakernasfjcld (5040 ft.), and on the
E. by the Nonsfjeld and Smogehornet. Sometimes it calls again
at Hellesylt. On the W. bank, opposite the entrance to the Geir-
angerfjord, lies Ljeen, whence a road to Slyngstad ascends the
Ljeenbakker (2590 ft.) in zigzags. On the E. bank are several
gaards. Farther on the steamer again turns to the E. into the
Norddalsfjord , another arm of the Storf jord , where it passes
St. Olafs Snuslwrn, a grotesquely-shaped cliff, and touches at
Ytredalen, Rellingen, with the Norddalskirke, and —

Sylte (*Gunnar Orenningseters Inn, high charges; Deving),
on the N. bank. A curious vein of light quartz here is called
St. Olafs Slange or Syltormon. To the E. rises the lofty Heggur-
dalstind. — From this point onwards the route may be traced on
the Map at p. 200.

From Sylte to Veblungsn.«s. This interesting route usually takes
ll/2 day , but may be accomplished in 1 day if the traveller drive to
Langdal. A guide is necessary for the latter part of the way (Grenningseter
of Sylte, bargaining advisable; Martinus Peder&en of Gjerde, 5 Engl. 31.
from Sylte, well spoken of). — The road at first ascends the old moraine
of Langbrekken. At the top of the hill is a cross in memory of St. Olaf,
who in 102S fled from Sylte to Lesje in the Gudbrandsdal. The road
then ascends the Valdai, passing several pleasant gaards, which are much
in vogue as summer-quarters among the citizens of Aalesund. At Rem,
the first large gaard, 12 Kil. from Sylte, carrioles and horses may be ob-
tained. Beyond Rem we cross the wide stony tract of Skjcersurden and
reach (22 Kil. from Sylte) Gaarden Langdal, where good entertainment
and also, if desired, quarters for the night are obtainable. At Nedre Bteil,
2 Kil. farther on, the road ceases. We ascend on foot through the Meier-
dal to the top of the Stegafjeld pass, where a magnificent survey is
unfolded of the Eomsdalshorn, the Vengetinder, Kongen, and Dronningen,
with the fjord in the distance to the N. Beyond this point a footpath,
indicated by 'Varder' (guide necessary) crosses the fjeld, skirting several
small lakes and sometimes passing over snow. It then turns to the X.E.
towards the Isterdal, descends the Stegane in innumerable windings and
passes the "Islerfos, several hundred feet high, commanding a fine view of
the Isterdalsfjeld to the left and the W. side of the Troldtinder (p. 200) to the
right. In about 6 hrs. from Langdal we reach the Sogge-Sceter, where milk
and bread may be obtained. To Veblungsnces 2 hrs. more (see p. 199).

A visit may also be paid from Sylte to the imposing -Tafjord, the
easternmost bay of the Norddalsfjord, which, though inferior to the Geir-
anger, also boasts of very grand scenery. On the left is a fine waterfall ;
and on the same side, farther on, is the Muldalsfos, descending from the
inhabited Muldal. The steamer steers through a strait into a kind of
amphitheatre. A waterfall on the right rebounds from a projecting rock,
which divides it into two parts. In the background is the village of
Tafjord, on the hill above which, to the right, are iron-mines belonging
to an English company. Lofty snow-mountains peer over the banks of

188 Route 21. SJ0HOLT.

the fjord in every direction. From the E. end of the Tafjord mountain-
passes lead to Grotlid and Stueflolen (p. 201).

The steamer now continues its western course , and touches at
'Bygden' Linge, with its picturesque gaards, and at the Liabygd.
A line view is obtained as far as Hellesylt to the S., and the
mountains of the Geiranger Fjord become particularly conspicuous.
The steamer then crosses to Stranden (see also p. 177), with the
church of Slyngstad, on the S. bank. The scenery here presents
a pleasing combination of softness and grandeur. In the back-
ground rises the Hemdalshorn.

The fjord now assumes the name of Slyngsfjord. The steamer
steers round the projecting Stordalsnas or Holtnen, enters the
Stordalsvik, and touches at the gaards of Hove and Vinje, at the
entrance to the picturesque Stordal. Our course now continues
to the N. On the right bank lie the gaards of Vagsvik, Vestre, and
Amdum. On the opposite bank is the steamboat-station of Sjevik,
whence a road leads to (11 Kil.) Aure (see below). The steamer then
rounds the Gausnas, and enters a bay, at the end of which lies —

Sjeholt or Seholt (*Sjeholt Hotel, R., B., or S. 1, D. 2 kr.J,
charmingly situated amid luxuriant vegetation at the S.E. base
of the Lifjeld. To the N.E. rises the Snaufjeld (2880 ft.), and to
the S., over the Gausnses, the snow-capped Storhorn (3250 ft.). On
the opposite bank of the stream which here enters the fjord is the
church of 0rskog. Sjeholt, which is a fast station, offers good
boating and sea-tishing and affords pleasant quarters for a day or
two. The herring-fishery in August is interesting.

Walks. Towards the W. to the O/2 hr.) 'Laksvarp' (called 'Gilge'
in the Sogn district), or apparatus for catching salmon, with white
hoards to attract the fish. — To the £trskogdal, which contains a pretty
waterfall. — To reach the top of the Lifjeld we ascend the Solnerdal for
1 hr., and then climb to the left for V2 hr. The ascent of the Veirhoru
also takes IV2 hr. — The view from the Lauparen is said to be very grand
(guide, Jens Vagsvik).

From Sjuholt we may order the private steamer of the Grand Hotel
in Molde to meet us atVestneug (12-15 kr., including the telegram); see p. 189.

From Swholt to Aalbsund (38 Kil. or 24 Engl. M.j, we may
proceed either by the road via (13 Kil.) Flaate and (13 Kil.)
Jiedsat, or by the steamboat. The latter, which plies several times
a week and takes 4 hrs. to the voyage, first touches at Langskibse,
on the N. bank of the fjord, which is here called the Nordfjord
(not to be confounded with the Nordfjord mentioned at p. 168).
The next station is Aure in Sekelven (telegraph-station), charm-
ingly situated on a S. bay of the fjord in the midst of imposing
scenery (comp. p. 177), and often crowded in summer with visitors
from Aalesund (from Aure to Skylstad-0ie, see p. 177). In the
background rise the pointed Stremshom (3240 ft.) and the impos-
ing Troldkirketind (4710 ft.). We next pass, on the left, Tusvik,
which also affords accommodation to summer- visitors. Passing
the Jerundfjord (p. 175) on the left, the steamer steers to the
N.W., between the Sule on the left and the Oksene on the right,

VESTN.ES. 21. Route. 189

and soon reaches the beautifully situated town of Aalesund
(p. 171).

From Sjgholt to Molds. The road at first gradually ascends
through the pretty 0rskogdal to a moorland plateau, in which lies a
small lake. The traveller will here notice numerous 'Loer', or small
huts for containing the hay ; the long poles are for marking the way
in winter. We then cross the boundary between the Bergens-Stift
and the Throndhjems-Stift, and descend into the Skorgedal.

15 Kil. EUingsyaard (575 ft. ; no accommodation). To the right
rises the Brustind, to the left the Ysttinder. The valley becomes
more attractive. Beyond Viken the road skirts the W. bank of the
beautiful Tresfjord, passing several gaards, crosses the mouth of
the narrow Misfjord, and reaches —

11 Kil. Vestnses (*Inn, D. 2 kr.), a scattered village with a
church, beautifully situated near the Moldefjord. Steamboat to Molde
almost every day and to Veblungsnaes (p. 199) four times weekly
(comp. Communicationer, Nos. 260 A, 264). The private steamer
of the Grand Hotel at Molde (p. 194) often makes extra-trips on
Sunday. If the steamer does not suit, we cross the fjord by boat in
2y2-3 hrs. to (13 Kil.) Molde (see p. 194).

22. The Valleys of Stryn, Loen, and Olden.

Comp. the Map, p. 168.

As the steamer ('Nordfjord' ; see Communicationer , 252 B) visits the
Nordfjord only twice a week, comparatively few travellers can avail them-
selves of it. A. small local steamer plies twice daily from Faleide to
Visnass, Loen, and Oldgren, which may also be reached thence by small
boat in 1, 2, and 2'/2 hrs. respectively (with two rowers, 2 kr. 40 0.). All
three of these places contain comfortable inns, Loen perhaps furnishing
the best quarters for those who do not wish to change from night to
night. Wraps should always be provided for the return home in the
evenings. The 'Eorskarle' of the Strynsvand, Loenvand, and Oldenvand
also act as guides; but in the actual glacier-climbing they are of com-
paratively little service. The traveller must take with him his own
provisions, as in the valleys generally only milk and bread can be obtained.

Faleidefsee p. 184) lies on the Indvikfjord, the innermost branch
of the Nordfjord, 6 Kil. from Visnaes, 10 Kil. from Loen, and 13 Kil.
from Olderen. The passage across the fjord to any of these places
is very fine. As far as Visnaes we see the Aarheimsfjeld rising in
front of us, with the Orytefjeld to the N. Farther on, on the way
to Loen and Olderen, rises the Skaalan (6355 ft.), with its glacier-
filled 'Skal', or bowl, opening to the N.E. ; to the right are the
Sandenibben (p. 191) and the Auflemsfjeld (p. 191), behind which,
as we proceed, the Melheimsnibben (p. 191) also comes into view. To
the E. of the Aarheimsfjeld rise the Opheimsfjeld (ascended from
Rake in 2 hrs. ; magnificent view) and the Lofjeld (still more ex-
tensive view). To the S. we now gain an uninterrupted view of the
Oldendal, with the Store Ceceliekrona (p. 193; to the W.) and the
Ravnefjeldsbrce.

The three valleys Stryndal, Loendal, and Oldendal, opening

1 90 Haute V-2. STRYNDAL. Excursions

to the E. and S.E. of tlie Indvikfjord, extend into the heart
of the Norwegian Fjeld, and to the Jostedalsbne (p. 105). The
greater part of the floor of each of these valleys is occupied
by a lake, 7-10 Engl. M. in length, formed by an ancient moraine-
formation, which separates it from the fjord and is called the
Eid. At the upper end of the valleys the glaciers, extending from
the higher snow-fields of the Jostedalsbrse, descend so far that from
the middle of the lake they seem actually to reach its banks. All
three lakes, but especially those in the Oldendal and Loendal, are
enclosed by rocky walls 4-5000 ft. high, over whieh rise mountain-
peaks to the height of 6500 ft. On all sides hang huge glaciers,
some ending abruptly in precipitous walls of rock, over the brink
of which are precipitated large masses of ice detached from the
main body. This phenomenon is known as the 'calving' of the
glaciers. From the numerous fissures in the rocky wall glacier-
streams fall into the lakes, tingeing with a milky hue the green
waters below. At the mouths of many of these streams are situated
gaards or sseters, occupied only at night, the owners coming by boat
in the evening to milk their cattle, and returning in the morning
to their farms. Higher up the valley, however, the sseters are often
permanently inhabited. The people are still very primitive and
somewhat dirty. When the traveller finds a gaard with no one
within, he lights a fire for himself, takes what milk and bread he
requires, and leaves a remuneration on the window-sill.

I. Excursion to thb Stryndal : from Visna?s to the end of
the Strynsvand 3 hrs., to the Gredungsbrse 5 hrs.

The starting-point for a visit to the Stryndal is Visnaes (* Vis-
nces Hotel, by the landing-place; good quarters at the skyds-station,
kept by L. Bee), at the foot of the Aarheims fjeld. The road crosses
the Strynelv and follows its N. bank to Ytre Eide, the church of
Nedstryn, and the gaards of Ojeirven and 0vre Eide. At Sunde
wc cross to the S. bank by a bridge and soon reach the fast station
of (14Kil.) Bergstad, where we obtain a boat to cross the Strynsvand
(with two rowers 1 kr. 92, with three rowers 2 kr. 88 ».).

The Strynsvand (80 ft.), which is about 10 Engl. M. in length,
is at first narrow, but afterwards, at Lindvik, expands into a beau-
tiful sheet of water. As we proceed we see, to the N., the Marshydna
(4680 ft.) and (farther on) the Flofjeld (4400 ft.), with the Bindals-
horn (5950 ft.) behind it and the high-lying gaards of Flo (720 ft. ;
good quarters ; footpath to BjOTgdal, see p. 186) in front. To the
right are the gaards of Holmevik. 0renas, and Tunold, and higher
up those of Brcekke and Aaning, above which towers the Brcekkefjeld.
From this point we proceed in a S. E. direction to the Church of
Opstryn , above which, to the S.W., appears the Fosnasbrce, de-
scending from the Shaalan fp. 191). On the other side we have
a view of the Qlomsdal and Videdal, with the (Homnceseggen and
the Midtstelshydna rising between them. At the mouth of the

fromFaleide. LOENDAL. 22. Route. 191

Videdal lies Hjelle, where the fjeld-route to Grotlid in the Gud-
brandsdal (see pp. 166-164) begins ; this route is by no means so
imposing when accomplished from this side, but it is worth while
driving- to the Via-Saeter (p. 165).

To the S. appears the entrance to the sombre Erdal, at the
upper end of which the Gredungsbrce is visible. In front, to the
right, is the Tindefjeldsbra with the Tavsehydna, and to the left,
the Byghydna (5325 ft.) and the Saterfjeld (6200 ft.), the whole
forming a most imposing picture of mountain and glacier scenery.
After a row of 2-21/-' hrs. we land at the gaard of Merk or Gren-
fur, cross the Erdela to the gaard of Erdal, and ascend the *Erdal,
via Berge and 1'jalhaug, to Gaard en Gredung (30-40 mill.; tolerable
quarters). Proceeding thence, with a view of the Erdalsbrtu or
Gredungsbra, which stretches down between the Strynskaupe on
the left and the Skaalfjeld on the right, we arrive in 2-2Y2 hrs. at the
loftily-situated Gredungs-Sa>ter , at the foot of the Assured glacier
(2315 ft.), past which leads the route to the Jostedal (see p. 107).

An excursion from the Gredungs-Steter over the Jostedalsbrse to the
Lodalskaupe (p. 108), and thence into the Bedal (p. 192) takes 8-10 hrs., and
should not he attempted without an experienced guide (to be obtained at
Gredung; fee 13 kr.). Iiy this expedition the traveller avoids the necessity
of returning to Visnses, and can go directly to Loen through the Loendal.

II. Excursion to the Loendal : from Loen on foot to Vasenden
V2""3/4 hr. ; to the upper end of the Loennand, by rowing-boat,
2V2-3 hrs., thence on foot to within sight of the Kjendalsbraz '/2-
8/4 hr., to the glacier itself Va-'A hr. more. The Loendal, as the
finest, should be kept to the last. Luncheon should be brought.

Loen (B. Kvamme's Hotel, It. 1, D. 2kr. ; Alexandra Hotel, both
welfspoken of), with a little church belonging to S try 11, lies at the
entrance to the *Loendal, which is watered by a clear little stream
and is bounded on the N. by the Lofjeld, and on the S. by the
Auflemsfjeld (5090 ft.). A carriage-road, affording beautiful views
of the snow-covered Bedalsfjeld, and farther on of the Kronebra and
the Kjendalskrona, ascends from Loen through a park-like land-
scape, passes the mouth of the Fosdal and the Haugfos, a 'horse-
shoe' waterfall formed by the Loendals-Elv, and brings us in 3/4 hr.
to the hamlet of Vasenden. Fine view from the bridge to the right.

We now reach the **Loenvand , a mountain lake of the most
imposing description, about 71 A> Engl. M. long. A boat is obtained
here (with two rowers, 5 kr. 50 0.). Soon after starting we enjoy
an uninterrupted view over the whole lake. On the left, abovo
the gaard of Sande, rises the Sandenibben (5425 ft.), on the right
are the Auflemsfjeld and the Melheimsnibben (5425 ft.). From all
the mountains, but especially from the Ravnefjeld (6575 ft.) on
the right, large glaciers descend, all, however, ending at a con-
siderable altitude. At the Brengsnces-Sceter, to the left, a waterfall
descends from the Skaulebrce. ; farther on, on the same side, are

192 Route 22. NCESDAL. Excursions

the gaards of Hellesceter. On the opposite side of the lake is a
huge glacier, the Hellestfterbra, terminating abruptly at a height
of 3900 ft., from which there roll clown during the warm weather
almost constant avalanches of ice. These fall first over a sheer
precipice of 1000 ft. and then flow onward in a partially covered
stream, finally spreading themselves out in a fan-shaped form,
and almost reaching the verge of the lake. At the time when
there are no avalanches about 10 waterfalls pour over the precipice.

On the left are the gaard of Hogrending and a waterfall de-
scending from the Osterdalsbrce. The right bank is uninhabited.
On the left rises the Kvcernhusfjeld (5700 ft.) , with the gaard of
Redi at its foot. To the right is the precipice of the serrated
Ravnefjeld, the base of which we now skirt towards the S. On the
left we have a view of the Bedal , with Oaarden Bedal, and in
the background the Skaalfjeld with the Skaalebrce.

From the gaard of Bizrdal we may visit the Badals-Sieter and the ad-
jacent BedaUbrce (Sceterbvee, 172-2 hrs.) or, spending the night on the
sifter, we may ascend the Lodalshaupe (6790 ft.; p. 103) in 8-10 hrs. The
guide should be brought from Loen.

The lake now contracts. In front towers the huge *Nonsnibba,
rising sheer to a height of over 6000 ft. To the right opens the
K vandal or Ncesdal, with its glacier, adjoining which is the *Uti-
gardsf'os, a waterfall 2000 ft. high, descending from the glaciers
of the Ravnefjeld. Passing through a bend of the lake, we find
ourselves in the centre of the magnificent **Amphitheatre ofNees-
dal, bounded by the Ravnefjeld on the W., the Nonsnibba on the
S., and the Bedalsfjeld on the E. Between the two latter we see
the Kronebrce and the Kjendalskrona (5995 ft.). The grandeur of
the scenery here is elsewhere unequalled in S. Norway. On the
alluvial land at the mouth of the Kvandals-Elv, the outflow of the
Kvandalsbrae, lie the turf-roofed gaards of Ncesdal (accommoda-
tion). We land at the mouth of the stream after a row of about
2 hrs. The rowers may be left here.

At the end of the lake the valley continues in the same direc
tion for about l/o hr., then bends to the right, so as to command
an unimpeded view of the *Kjendalsbra, on which a waterfall de-
scends to the right. From this point we may either return , or,
following the path which crosses the river twice, push on to the
glacier in 1 hr. more. The glacier has receded so rapidly of late
that from the end of it we now see the *Kronefos, which descends
from a height of 650 ft. and which was formerly not accessible
without some difficulty.

From Ncesdal across the Jostedalsbr.u to the Jostedal, a fatigu-
ing expedition of about 15 hrs. (comp. p. 108). Jacob and Simon Ncesdal
are recommended as guides to those making the excursion in this direction.

III. Excursion to the Oldendal : from Olderen to the Olden-
rand 1 hr., to Rusteen 2 hrs., to the Brigsdal Olacier 2-2'/2 hrs.
Olderen or Olden (*Yri$ Hotel) lies at the mouth of the beauti-

from Faleide. OLDENVAND. 22. Route. 193

ful Oldendal and forms excellent headquarters for excursions. Ltirs
Olderen and Lars Janssen are good guides.

The picturesque walk from Olderen to (4 Kil.) Eide can be
easily accomplished in 1 hr. As the road is practicable for driv-
ing, the traveller may order a 'stolkjserre' to await him at Eide on
his return (in about 8 hrs. ; fare i.1/2 kr.). After 20 min. we cross
the milky stream, which here forms the Lekenfos. "We then proceed
to the "W., skirting the FLoenvand. In '/2 hr. we reach —

Eide, at the N. end of the *01denvand (120ft/), a lake 7 Engl.
M. in length and barely 3/4 M. in breadth, which stretches hence
towards the S. and is enclosed by lofty walls of rock. A rough
bridle-path on the W. bank may be used if no boat (there and
back, with rower, 5 kr.) can be procured.

The first half of the passage is less interesting than the second.
To the left lies the gaard of Sandnces, to the right an ancient mo-
raine with the gaard of Bennces, above which rises the Benn&s-
Klaaoen. Waterfalls plunge headlong from the rocks on every
side. To the right towers the huge Store Ceciliekrona (5825 ft.).
To the left, by the side of mountain-torrents, lie the gaards of
Haahjem, Strand, and Ojerde. To the S. the lake appears walled
in by the Synsnibben, but as we approach Sunde, we obtain a view,
through an opening to the right, of the Grytereidsnibben (5615 ft.)
and the Yr ini66en,with their glaciers. • — The strait of *Sunde, through
which we next pass, has been formed by the deposits brought
down on the left by two streams descending from the Ojerdeakslen
(6420 ft.) and the Neslenibben (4860ft.). On the same bank are the
gaards of Sunde. The current in the narrow sound is rather strong.
— On rounding the sombre steeps of Synsnibben, we obtain a
magnificent **View of the S. half of the lake, which here expands
to its former dimensions. The Mcslkevoldbra, a huge and imposing
glacier, is seen descending from the head of the Oldendal to the
lake, a distance of 6 Engl. M. To the right towers the majestic
Yrinib, from which several waterfalls are precipitated, while at
its base lie the gaards of Bak-Yri and Indre-Yri. At the end of
the lake is the Rustefjeld, with a large waterfall, descending in
two leaps. Other cascades fall from the Kvamfjeld, to the left.

After a row of 2 hrs. we land at Rusteen (plain quarters ; guide,
Jens Rusteen), situated on the alluvial land formed by the depo-
sits of innumerable glacier streams (across the Oldenskar to Aa-
mot, a grand expedition, but suitable for experienced mountaineers
only, with guide, see p. 182). Our route gradually ascends across
this low-lying and at places marshy tract to Hejalm, and then
traverses an old moraine to (Y2 hr.) M&lkevold, where the above-
mentioned path diverges to the right (comp. p. 182). Opposite
Maelkevold are the Augsburgnibba and the glacier and gaards of Aa-
brekke, in the Brandsdal. The last-mentioned glacier is perhaps
the finest offshoot of the Jostedalsbrse, though its beauty cannot br

Baedeker' s Norway and Sweden. 1th Edit. IP,

194 Route 23. MOLDE.

fully appreciated from the valley. At the last gaard we again de-
scend to the left into the valley, passing a mill on the right. The
path then leads to the left along the stream, in the direction of
the *Mcelkevoldbrce. After 20 min. we cross a marshy piece of
ground, beyond which we thread our way among large boulders,
and in 20 min. more we cross the stream and ascend to the E.
through the Brigsdal to (10 min.) —

Oaarden Brigsdal (490 ft. ; high charges for plain fare). On
the opposite side of the main valley is the *Nonsfos, a pretty
double fall. Comp. the Map at p. 108.

We now ascend on the right bank of the Brigsdals-Elv to the
(Y2 nr0 Waterfall of that stream. The ascent is easy at first, but
soon becomes very steep , and at places demands actual climbing.
Beyond the fall we ascend over ice-worn rocks to a new zone of the
valley, where we suddenly obtain a beautiful view of the *Brigs-
dalsbra; , the blue ice-masses of which tower above forests of birch
and alder. Our route now leads through the trees, and in 20 min.
brings us to the foot of the impassable glacier (1000 ft.), another
offshoot of the Jostedalsbrs , containing several fine ice-caverns.
Another glacier, from which waterfalls and occasionally ice-
boulders also descend, is seen to the S., high up.

The following fatiguing and difficult expedition, affording a fine
survey of the majestic beauties of the Jostedalsbrse , is occasionally
made from this point. Ascending the Brigsdalsbrce we skirt the rocky
hill at the head of it (5500 ft.), and reach the Mcelkevoldbrw. We then
descend the latter glacier , traversing a disagreeable tract of debris , and
linally cross the Brigsdals-Elv to Gaarden Brigsdal (see above). This ex-
pedition should be attempted only with the aid of a capable guide.

23. Molde and the Moldefjord with its Branches.
The Romsdal.

Molde, on account of its multifarious steamboat connections, is an
excellent starting-point for various interesting tours. A visit to the neigh-
bourhood of the Moldefjord and the Romsdalsfjord and to the Romsdal
may be especially recommended. The visit to the Romsdalsfjord should
be made from Molde rather than in the reverse direction, as in the former
case the landscape increases in impressiveness as we proceed, whereas,
if we visit the Gudbrandsdal (R. 15) first, the succeeding scenery becomes
less grand at every step. Those who intend to return to Molde should
So by land and return by steamer.

Molde. — Hotels. 'Grand Hotel, finely situated at the E. end of the
town, R. lVa-S'A-kr., L. 25 0., B. I1/4, D. 2, S. I1/2, 'pens', incl. L. and
baths, 6 kr. ; English spoken. This hotel keeps a steamer and a steam-
launch , the latter used for transporting passengers from the sea-going
steamers to the private pier of the hotel (25-35 0., luggage 10 0. and upwards).
The larger hotel-steamer may be hired for excursions at 60 kr., the steam-
launch at 10 kr. per day. — 'Alexandka, at the W. end of the town,
similar charges. — English Hotel, between the church and Humlehave,
6-7 kr. per day (reduction to visitors staying one or more weeks).

Post and Telegraph Offices, see the Plan on next page. — British
Vice-Consul, Mr. P. F. Dahl.

Steamers leave Molde for Bergen and Throndhjem 5 times a week; for
Aalesimd, 6 times; for Veitnas. 6 times; for Teblungsnces, 6 times; for

MOLDE.

23. Route. 195

Eidsvaag and N&ste via Alfamas> twice. For Bod they sail generally twice
a week ; and for the islands of Hare, Sonde, and Ona weekly or fortnightly.
— Enquiries should be made on the spot as to the hours of departure;
the information of the hotel-waiters is not to be depended on.

Molde, a clean little town of 1700inhab., is pleasantly situated
on the N. bank of the Moldefjord. Although the long islands of
Hjarte and Faare afford excellent shelter to the harbour, yet its
trade for the most part has been gradually diverted to Aalesund.
Being sheltered by hills of considerable height from the N. and
W. winds, the vegetation in the neighbourhood is unusually luxu-
riant. Roses and other flowers are more abundant than in most
other parts of Norway, and some of the houses are picturesquely
overgrown with honeysuckle. The predominant pine and birch are
mingled with horse-chestnuts, limes, ashes, and cherry-trees.

The handsome avenue on which the Grand Hotel is situated
leads to the E. past the prettily situated Oaard Molde and along
the Fanestrand or Fannestrand, as this part of the bank is called,
nearly 4 Engl. M. in length, where a number of the merchants
of Christianssund possess pleasant villas (see also p. 197). — The
Church of Molde contains a good painting of the Maries at the Sep-
ulchre.

An excellent view of the town and fjord is obtained from the
*Rs:KN.a:sHAUG, a height to the N.W. of the town, with pleasure
grounds, near the Humle-Have or Dahls-Have, a charming private
garden ; it is reached from the Grand Hotel in 15-20 min. by the
upper road, passing the church. The top is marked by a flag-staff.
Those who have not time to ascend the Moldehei should not fail
to ascend the Ra?kn»shaug. By the sea, near the foot of this hill,
lies the leper hospital of Raknas (visitors admitted).

The route to the Moldehei also passes Dahls-Have (up 1 hr.,
down 3/4 hr.). We ascend immediately to the W. of these grounds,
at first following (towards the N.) the way-posts marked 'til Var-

13*

1 96 Route 23. TUSTEN. Moldefjord.

den' ; at (10 min.) a bifurcation we ascend to the right; 5 min. fence
and gate to the right ; at (20 min.) a small water-course, where the
path becomes faint, we keep to the right; 10 min. a marshy spot.
The path now bends to the left, the vane becomes Visible, and in
12 min. more we Teach the top of the *Moldehei (1350 ft.), with
a refuge-hut (generally closed) and a huge weather-vane. The
view is one of the most picturesque in Norway. At our feet lies the
beautiful fjord, with Molde nestling on its N. bank ; on the oppo-
site bank, beyond Vestnses, rises a long range of picturesquely
shaped mountains, partially covered with snow, the most prominent
of which is Lauparen (see below) ; to the left of these (S.E.), in the
distance, rise the Troldtinder (p. 200), Romsdalshorn, and Venge-
fjeldene in the Eomsdal, and still more to the left (E.) the Skjor-
tan in the Eikisdal (p. 203). To the W. is a small piece of the
open sea, which is better seen from another summit, to the N. of
the hut, marked with a pointed 'Varde'. (A good panorama is to
be had at Olsen's book-shop at Molde, price l^kr.)

To the N.E. of Molde rises Tusten (2280 ft.), or Stor Tuen,
another remarkably fine point of view, which should be visited if
time permits (3 hrs.; guide advisable). The route ascends on the
farther bank of the brook at the E. end of the town, passing a few
houses and traversing a partially cleared wood. The barren Tusten
forms the background of the valley. After a/i hr. the valley 'di-
vides ; we keep to the right, and in i/i hr. more cross a bridge.
The path then ascends towards the summit in a straight direction,
through pines, birches, juniper-bushes, and ferns, and, though
marshy at places, presents no difficulty. The dead and dying pines,
with their silver-grey trunks , on the (1 V4 nr0 upper boundary of
the wood are very picturesque. Thence to the summit about 20 min.
more. The flora here is of an Alpine character. The very extensive
view embraces the fjord and the mountains to the N., E., and S.,
while the boundless Atlantic stretches to the W.

a. Steamboat Voyage from Molde to Veblungsnses
in the Romsdal.

The Aalesund steamers ('Geiranger' and 'Robert' ; see Communicationer,
No. 260 A) leave Molde twice weekly at 12.30 p.m. , for Veblungsnws and
Xcvs (5 hrs.), returning on the following mornings. There are also two
local steamers, the 'Molde' plying thrice, and the 'Nicolay H. Knudtzon'
twice weekly (comp. Communicationer, Nos. 262, 264). The excursion from
Veblungsnses or Na;s to Ormeim (p. 201) and back takes an entire day.

The Aalesund steamers, and generally the local steamers also,
first steer towards (1 hr.) Vestnas (p. 189), on the S. bank of the
Moldefjord. The Lauparen (4745 ft.) is here the most conspicuous
of the mountains in the background. Passing the verdant Gjer-
mundsnces, we next come to the island of Sakken, where the steamer
sometimes stops at Vestad.

Beyond this point the fjord takes the name of *Romsdalsfjord.

Molde fjord. ROMSDALSFJORD. 23. Route. 197

We here enjoy a fine view of the Vengetinder and other mountains
of the Romsdal , of the Langfjord with the Skaalan to the N. , and
of numerous lofty peaks to the S. At the foot of these last is
the thickly-peopled Vaagestrand, with its high-lying white church.

The steamer then skirts the peninsula on which rises the Oxen
(2675 ft.), with the Redvenfjord (p. 198) to the E. Some steamers
stop at Nordvik, lying with the church of Eid on the low neck at
the S. end of the peninsula.

To the S. rise the Troldstolene (3714 ft.), with the St. Olafs-
Stol, a 'Botn' formed by two hills and supposed to resemble a chair.
The Aalesund steamer then enters the little bay of Void, with an
old wooden church and numerous boat-houses (Nest). A beautiful
mountain background with a couple of glaciers forms the end of
the green and richly cultivated valley.

Farther on, the huge mountains on the Indfjord, which stretches
from Sevik towards the S. for about 3 Engl. M., become promi-
nent. They are generally known as the Isterfjeldene, and are as yet
quite unexplored by the tourist. To the N. is Thorvik (p. 198).
The magnificent view from this point includes the Isfjord, the
Smerbottenfjeld (3765 ft.) to the N. , and the massive mountains
of the Romsdal to the S. (the Vengetinder to the S.W., the blunted
Kallskraatind, 5895 ft., and the Romsdalshorn, p. 200). An ade-
quate idea of the immense size of these mountains may be obtained
by remembering that most of them are as high above the sea as
the Konigsspitze or the Ortler above Sulden.

Veblungsnces and Nas, on the E. bank of the Rauma, which
descends from the Romsdal, see p. 199.

The E. arm of the Romsdalsfjord is called the Isfjord. In winter it
is entirely frozen. At its upper end lie Slen and the church of Hen,
whence we may walk (guide necessary, Hans Moslu recommended) via
Grevdal to (5 hrs.) Torhus, near the church of Eirisfjord, to the N.E. of
the Eikisdalsvand (p. 204), and thence in 1 hr. to flveraas (comp. p. 204).

Hen is a good starting-point for an ascent of the Juralind (p. 204).
We drive through the Gr#vdal to (37zhrs.) ilerttel (tolerable quarters)
and ascend thence to the top in 7-8 hrs. The View embraces the Veiitu-
tinder and Mj0lnir (p. 200), the Eikisdalsvand, and the Dovrefjeld.

b. Land Route from Molde to Veblungsnses.

45 Kil. Eoad. The stations are all fast, but the accommodation is
often poor. Those who have visited or who do not care to visit, the
Fanestrand may go by steamer (p. 201) or rowing-boat, from Molde to
Alf amies.

Immediately to the E. of Molde begins (as already mentioned
at p. 195) the *Fanestrand or Fannestrand, a coast-road shaded
with birches, ashes, maples, larches, etc., and affording fine views
of the fjord and the mountains of the Romsdal in the distance. It
is lined with numerous villas and gaards, one of the finest of which
is the 'Buen Retiro' of Consul Johnsen. At Lerbrovik, halfway to
Strande, the road becomes more lonely. To the left diverges
a road to Julslrt and Side on the Isingvn/ig (38 Kil., with 'skyds';

1 98 Route 23. ALFARN^ES. Moldefjord.

romp. p. 173). To the right we enjoy a view of the island of Boise
with its high-lying church, and of the headland of Dvergsnses.

9 Kil. Strande, at the mouth of the Fanefjord, along which
the road now leads (see p. 199). We, however, proceed by rowing-
boat, which we may either take only to the gaards of —

3 Kil. Dvergsnces or Dversnces, on the opposite bank of the Fane-
fjord (walking thence to Selsnses), or for the whole way to Alfarnaes.

The road leading to the S. along the coast from Dvergsnaes is
very hilly ('bakket'), so that we must often alight and walk. Fine
view of the Troldtinder(j>. 200); in the foreground is the Havnevik,
and to the right the Vee ('holy island'), with a church.

11 Kil. (pay in the reverse direction for 16) Selsnces commands
a fine view of the Langfjord to the E. and the Romsdalsfjord to
the S., with the islands of Ve», Sakken (p. 203), and the peculi-
arly shaped Hestholmen. — We next cross the Langfjord in a
rowing-boat to —

4 Kil. Alfarnaes, a steamboat-station (see p. 203) in a charm-
ing situation.

The next part of the road, extending to the S. along the shore
of the Redvenfjord, is the most beautiful of the whole route. The
country is well cultivated and studded with gaards. Opposite we
have a view of the church of Eid (p. 197) and of the Oxen (p. 197).
In the distance are the Troldstolene (p. 197). At the gaard of
Lareim the road to Nordvik turns off to the right , while that to
Thorvik ascends in a straight direction. Suddenly there bursts
upon the traveller a splendid view of the Ojersatvatn, a lake with
a wooded island , occupying the centre of a wooded amphitheatre
resembling the crater of an extint volcano. Beyond the lake rises
the Skolten (3440 ft.), with the waterfall of Skjolen. To the left
of the last rise the massive Vengetinder (p. 197), to the right the
Troldtinder, the Jsterfjeldene, and the mountains on the Indfjord.
Hence to Thorvik (see below) in 1 hr. The road next descends
along the N. side of the valley , ascends again through a narrow
pass, and, skirting the hill of Klungenas on the right, leads
through pine-woods to —

14 Kil. Thorvik. The station, where we order the boat, lies
at a considerable height above the fjord, but we can drive right
down to the beach.

From Thorvik we proceed by boat (one rower generally enough;
f>3 e.) to Veblungsnces (4 Kil. ) or to Nats, 2 Kil. farther (p. 199).

c. From Veblungsnaes or Naes to the Romsdal.

The fine route from the Uudbrandsdal to the Moldefjord, described
in R. 15, leads through the Komsdal. Veblungsnses is 48 Kil. (30 Engl. M.)
from Stuefloten, at the W. end of the (judbrandsdal. Those who do not
wish to proceed farther to the E. and who are not going via Domaas to
Throndhjem (K. 27) may turn at (27 Kil.) Flatmark or even at (16 Kil.)
Urmeim. In the latter case even the pedestrian may make the excursion
in one day from Veblungsnaes. Ihe stations are all fast. Diligence* see p. 91.

Moldefjord. VEBLUNGSN^S. 23. Route. 1 99

Veblungsnaes. — Hotels. Onsrum's Hotel; -Hotel Romsdal, R. 1,
S. 1 kr., B. 80 0. ; "Enkefku Beit Sletten, in the village, unpretending. —
Telegraph Station.

Carriages are always in waiting here for those who wish to drive fo
Nses or the Romsdal. The 'Skyds-station' is at Swtnces (see below).

Veblungsnas, situated on the Isfjord, an arm of the Romsdals-
fjord, to the S. of the mouth of the Rauma and at the N.E. base
of the Satnesfjeld (3900 ft.) , is a favourite summer-resort and is
often crowded in the season. It commands a fine view of the Roms-
dalshorn, and particularly of the Vengetinder. — A pleasant
* Walk may he taken to the church and Praestegaard of Grytten, where
no fewer than four different well-defined coast-levels are observable
(comp. p. xxxii). At the bifurcation here we keep to the right and
follow the old road, passing (20 min.) the gaard of ScBtnces and a
military camp (right), to a hill surmounted by a low tower, whence
we enjoy a splendid view of the Vengetinder, the Romsdalshorn,
and the valleys of the Rauma and the Ister. Instead of returning
direct to Veblungsnses, we may ascend the Isterdal to the first
bridge, cross this, and follow the road on the left bank of the
Rauma. Beyond Sogge we cross the Rauma and return by the
Romsdal road (a walk of 3 hrs. in all).

Opposite Veblungsnses, to the N. of the mouth of the Rauma,
lies —

Naqs.Pfloiei Bellevue, English spoken , R., L., & A. 2, B. ll/->,
S. IV2 kr. ; *Unhjem, unpretending), commanding an admirable
view of the mountains of the fjord, the Romsdal, and the Isterdal,
and also well suited for a prolonged stay. To the S.E. rises the
Slorhesten (3340 ft.)

Excursions from Njbs and Veblungsn^es, besides to the Romsdal,
may be made to the Ister/os in the Isterdal, and up the Sttgam to the
Stegafjeld (p. 187) ; to Stert, at the end of the Isfjord (p. 197) ; to the
Indfjord and Void (p. 197); and to Thovvik (3 hrs., there and back),
with a visit to the hill above the Gjersa;tvatn (p. 193), 1 hr. farther on.

Veblungsnses and Naes lie at the entrance to the *Komsdal, or
valley of the Rauma (which rises in the Lesjeskogenvand, p. 126),
through which runs one of the grandest and most widely cele-
brated routes in Norway, admirably adapted for pedestrians. The
roads from Veblungsnses and Nses unite at a bridge, about 3 Kil.
from the former and 2 Kil. from the latter. We then ascend
along the right bank of the stream, passing (1 Kil.) the former Hotel
Helgtnms (now closed), situated in a pleasant, park-like valley
covered with alders, birches, and ashes, and surrounded by lofty
hills. To the left is the gaard of Aak, now the residence of Mr.
H. O. Wills, the well-known tobacco-manufacturer of Bristol. The

200 Route 23. ROMSDALSHORN. Moldefjord.

opposite which is Gaarden Fiva, in a plantation of birches. On
the E. side of the valley, scarcely visible from the road , are the
picturesque Venyetinder (5960 ft.), adjoining which and dominat-
ing the view, towers the huge *Romsdalshorn (4965 ft.), usually
known as Hornet.

The Ascent of the Romsdalshorn (one day), first accomplished in
1827, is more dangerous than that of the Matterhorn and impossible after
snow. We ascend the Vengedal (here practicable for driving), and climb
to the peak from the W. side. Malhias Soggemoen and Erik JVorahagen
of Eomsdal, Ole Kolflot of Vengedal, and Lars Janssen of Olden may be
recommended as guides.

The Vengetinder and Mjetlnir are ascended with less difficulty, but
should not be attempted except by practised mountain-climbers. The'
Jljalnir, which Mr. Slingsby describes as one of the steepest mountains
in Europe, is best approached from Indre Dalen (good quarters), reached
from Nil's by a drive of 3 his.

On the W. side of the valley rise the *Troldtinder ('witch pin-
nacles'; 5055 ft.). Part of the serrated ridge is known as 'Brude-
felget', or the bridal train. The highest peak (difficult) may be as-
cended via the small glacier visible between Nses and Aak. The
road now follows the right bank of the impetuous Rauma, with
the Romsdalshorn on the left and the Troldtinder on the right. From
both heights avalanches, mud-streams, and numerous large masses
of rock have fallen into the valley. Through the bed of the stream
runs a stony track which is used in winter as being less exposed
to avalanches.

15 Kil. (from Veblungsnjes) Horgheim (235 ft.; unpretending
but good station), situated on an ancient moraine. The valley is
wider here, and part of the ground is marshy. A new road is in
progress. We pass the gaards of Mirebe , Redningen , Treene,
Alrxes, and Rtmmem , the last on the opposite side of the valley.
^'ear Remmem, to the right, is a waterfall, and near the gaard
of Monge, to the left, is the picturesque Mongefos, descending from
the Mongegjura (4230 ft.; *View; guide, Johnson of Flatmark).
The sides of the valley are here 2000-3000 ft. high. Fine retro-
spect of the Troldtinder and the Semletind (5770 ft.). The road
and the Rauma next thread their way through a chaos of enormous
blocks of rock, the result of some tremendous landslip. Beyond
the church of Kors we reach —

12 Kil. Flatmark (good station, R. 1 kr., B or S. 80 »., D. 1 kr.
40 »), situated, as its name ('flat field') implies , in a broader and
more smiling part of the valley. Opposite rises the Skiriaxlen
(3745 ft.). — The scenery continues line, though less grand. On
each side are several waterfalls, most of which, however, are unim-
portant in dry seasons. To the left are the Slyggefondfos , the
b'ravdefos, and the Skogefos; on the right the Dentefos. To the
S., above Ormeim, rises the Middagshougen. The road now ascends
rapidly. To the right is the picturesque *Vcermofos, a waterfall
on the S. side of the valley , nearly 1000 ft. in height, which after
rain, and during the melting of the snow in early summer, assumes

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Moldefjord. ORMEIM. 23. Route. 201

most imposing dimensions. The best view is obtained from a rocky
knoll on the right bank of the Rauma, immediately opposite the fall.
■ 11 Kil. Ormeim {*Station, -with view of the Vrermofos from the
back-windows; R., B., or S. 1 kr.; table d'hote for the diligence
travellers, 1 kr. 700., tolerable), beautifully situated high above
the Rauma. To the 8. rises the Alterhei, with the Storhatten.

The ascent of Storhaetten (5940 ft.) occupies about 4 hrs., and riding
is practicable for three-quarters of the way (guide 4, horse 4 kr.). The
route descends from the station to a bridge over the Rauma, crosses it,
turns to the right, and ascends by the side of the Vcermofos to [a (l'/s hr.)
Scaler. After l'/a hr. more the path terminates and riders dismount. In
another hour, the last half of which is spent in clambering over loose
stones, we reach the summit. The view, like those from most of the
Norwegian 'Fjeldnuter', is deficient in picturesqueness, although extensive.

Travellers who visit the Eomsdal as an excursion from Veb-
lungsnies or Nses usually turn at Ormeim , but the following bit of
the valley, as far as Stuefloten, is also very line. About 4 kil. from
Ormeim we come to a finger-post indicating the way to the *Sletta-
fos, '80 ells' from the road. We alight here, cross the new bridge
above the fall, and follow the path for a few hundred paces to a
spot below the overhanging rocks, where the imposing cascade is
seen to the best advantage, and where its roar is loudly rever-
berated. The rocky walls of the gully have been worn into deep
cauldrons ('Jaettegryder') by the action of the water. — Comp. the
Map, p. 200.

The road now runs high above the Rauma, which here receives
several tributary streams, the chief of which is the Ulvaa, the
discharge of the Ulvedalsvand. The river sometimes entirely dis-
appears from view. We then ascend the once dreaded Bjerne Klen
('bears' cliff) in numerous windings.

10 Kil. (pay for 11) Stuefloten (2050 ft. ; ^Station, moderate)
is the first place in the Gudbrandsdal. Fine view from the Toppen
(2 hrs.).

From Stuefloten to the Eikisdal, towards the N, a fatiguing moun-
tain-path, see p. 204. — Another mountain-route, little frequented, leads
hence towards the W. to the Norddalsfjord (p 187.). It ascends the course
of the Ulvaa, crosses the mountains, and descends by the Bodals-Elv to
the Tafjord, the innermost bay of the Norddalsfjord. Steamers touch four
times weekly at Sylte and Relling, a little to the W. of the Tafjord, whence
they are reached by small boat. This route is so seldom undertaken,
that careful enquiries should be made in Stuefloten.

Continuation of the road through the Oudbrundsdal, see pp. 121-
128.

d. From Molde to the Eikisdal.

This magnificent tour has recently been much facilitated. To A'eile,
situated at the entrance of the Eikisdal, we may go either by the road
or by steamer. The steamer leaves Molde every Sun., Wed., and Thurs.,
reaching Nuste in 6'/4 hrs.; returning on Wed. at once and on the other
two trips on the following day (comp. Commtmicationer, Nos. 262, 1, A: 264).
It depends therefore upon what day is chosen for the trip, whether the
journey to or from 5s'0ste should be performed by land. Three days
should be allowed fur the excursion, and may be divided as follows,

202 Route 23. EIDSVAAG. Moldefjord.

beginning with the land-route: — 1st day. To Eidsvaag. 2nd day, on foot
or by boat to JVeste, on foot or by carriole to J&veraas, by boat across
the Eikisdalsvand to Reitan-Vtigaard. 3rd day, by boat back to ffveraas,
on foot to Neste, and in the afternoon by steamer to Molde. — If the
traveller prefers to begin with the steamer, he should proceed on the
first day to Reitan-Vtigaard; spend the second night at Eidsvaag; and
return on the third day to Molde. — Parties who hire the private steamer
of the Grand Hotel (see p. 194) may accomplish the excursion, after a
very hurried fashion, in one day.

The Land Route prom Molde to N»stb (70 Kil. or 43^2 Engl.
M.) is, with the exception of the Fanestrand (p. 197) and the
stretch between Tjelde and Eidsvaag, somewhat monotonous. The
skyds-stations are all fast, but generally afford very indifferent food
and accommodation. The station of Molde is at Fuglsat, about
1 Engl. M. to the E., but the hotel-keepers arrange for direct con-
veyances. We engage f,he skyds for —

9 Kil. Strande (p. 198) , or all the way to Eide. • — Beyond
Strande the road skirts the bank of the Fanefjord , on whose >S.
side rises the mighty Skaalan (3590 ft.).

13 Kil. Eide (tolerable quarters), where the route to Christians-
sund, described on p. 206, diverges to the N. — The fjord ends
at the church of Kleve ; but the road continues along the N. side
of the valley to —

9 Kil. Istad. A little beyond this the road forks, the branch
to the left leading to Angvik (p. 206), while our road runs to the
right, through a monotonous wooded district, called the Osrnark,
with a view of the majestic Skaalan on the right. Crossing the
Storelv, the road passes on the right the Osvand and the gaard
of Gusiaas, and after traversing a more solitary region skirts the
Sjerscetervand, with the gaard of the same name, and the Scetervand.
Thence it descends steeply, commanding a beautiful view of the
Langfjord and the snow-peaks to the S.

13 Kil. Tjelde, on the Langfjord. — The road proceeds to-
wards the E. at a considerable elevation above the Langfjord, and
afterwards descends, always with a fine view of the mountains to
the S., among which the Skjortan is conspicuous. We next pass
the old wooden church of Red (about to be pulled down) and several
substantial-looking gaards.

9 Kil. Eidsvaag (*H. Sverdrup's Hotel, R. 1 kr., S. 1 kr. 20,
B. 80 ».), situated at the E. end of the fjord, which is here shallow,
and at low water completely covered with sea-weed. A picturesque
walk may be taken to the new church, 10 min. to the N. Pass-
engers who take the steamer here have to row out to it in a small
boat (10 0.).

From Eidsvaag a road leads over the Tiltereid to Eidseyen on the
Sundalsfjord (9 Kil.); see p. 173.

Our road continues to skirt the bank of the fjord, and passes
the large gaard of Varpences and the parsonage of (5 Kil. from
Eidsvaag) Ncesset, where the novelist Bjernson spent part of his
youth. Farther on the road becomes very hilly, at places affording

Moldefjord. N0STE. 23. Route. 203

pretty views of the Eirisfjord on the right, and of the Skjortan
on the left (see below). At about 4 Kil. from Niesset it passes
the two gaards of Bogge (steamboat-station). At Bredvik , 3 Kil.
farther on, the road ends , and the stages from Bredvik to N»ste
are best performed by boat (1 xji hr. ).
14 Kil. Neste (see below).

Steamboat Route from Moldb to N^ste. — The steamer steers
between the little islands of Hjarte and Faare, and passing the
Boise to the left, enters the Molde fjord. After touching at Sakkences
on the island of Scekken, it proceeds past the Vee to the stations of
Selsnas and Alfarnces (p. 138), to which point travellers for Yeb-
lungsnaes may also use the steamer.

The vessel next enters the Langfjord (I8V2 Engl. M. long and
about 2 M. broad), on the N. bank of which towers the huge
Skaalnn (p. 202). The S. shore, near which our course lies, is to a
large extent well-cultivated, though monotonous. The steamboat-
stations are Midtet and Myklebostad (good station for 'Bootskyds'),
with the church of Vistdal, on a little bay, from which the Vistdnl
stretches into the interior. On the beach there are several boat-
houses (Nest) ; in the background elevated old coast - lines and
snow-peaks. The steamer passes the entrance of the Eirisfjord
(see below) and calls at Eidsvaag (p. 202), at the E. end of the fjord.

The steamer now retraces its course for a short distance, rounds
the Nces, and enters the *Eirisfjord, which stretches 6 Engl. M. to
the S.E. from the end of the Langfjord. In front rises the *Skjortan
(5620 ft.) or Hvitkua ('white cow') ; and below are the Strand-
e.lusfos and the Drivafos, a thin thread of water. Farther to the
right are the precipitous Oogseren (4325 ft.), the Meringdalsncebba,
and the Tufttind, with a curious 'Botn' at its summit. After a voyage
of 6 hrs. the steamer reaches the terminus —

N>ste, or Eirisfjordseren (Eikisdal Hotel, 3 min. to the right,
well spoken of, R. 1 kr., B. 80 0., D01S. 1 kr. 60 0.; fast station
for skyds). — On the arrival of the steamer, pedestrians may walk
Y2 hr. farther on to the gaard of Torhus, near the Eirisfjord or
Sira-Kirke, where pleasant, but somewhat primitive accommo-
dation is to be had. Or they may go on to 0veraas (p. 205).

The fertile and lovely valley , which is generally called Sira-
dalen after the above-mentioned church, is watered by the Eikis-
dals-Elv, and is surrounded by immense mountains. At Torhus,
beyond the church, where the route to the Grevdal diverges (see
p. 197), our road divides into two branches , both debouching on
the Eikisdalsvand. The one to the right emerges beside the gaard
of Aasen ; the other, crossing to the right bank of the river at0ver-
aas, skirts the imposing height of Gogseren or Gokseira (4325 ft.),
which conceals the Skjortan from view. The summit of the ancient
moraine separating the Eikisdalsvand from the Siradal, the only

204 Route 23. 0VERAAS. Moldefjord.

break in which is formed by the little stream, commands a fine re-
trospect. About 1 hr. beyond the church we reach the gaards of —

8 Kil. (from Neste) 0veraas (tolerable quarters) , situated on
the S. side of the moraine, at the N. end of the Eikisdalsvand. A
small steamer named the 'Mignon' plies on this lake almost daily
from 0veraas to Eikisdal (Gaarden Reitan) in 2 hrs. (fare 1 kr.
32 0. ; extra trip 12, there and back 15 kr. ; embarkation 10».). The
•Mignon' is dirty and small, accommodating at most 16-18 pers.;
when crowded it rolls uncomfortably. A small boat with two rowers
takes 3-3Y2 MTS- from 0veraas to Reitan (tariff 21 ». per Kil., or
3 kr. 78 e. for the whole journey, there and back 7 kr. 56 e.,
besides gratuity).

The **Eikisdalsvand (200 ft.) fills a narrow rocky basin about
12 Engl. M. in length. On both sides tower mountains covered
with snow and glaciers, from which descend impetuous waterfalls.
Even in August the snow-fields stretch down almost to the lake,
although the sides of the valley are clothed with pine and other
woods, which afford shelter to bears. The produce of the numerous
nut-trees is collected at the end of September and beginning of
October, and forms the 'Romsdalsnfldder' of commerce. The lake
is almost always frozen over in winter, but the ice is seldom
strong enough to support a man's weight. Avalanches are frequent,
and showers of stones also occur. A north wind generally prevails
till about 10 or 11 a.m., and the boatmen make use of it by hoist-
ing sails made of woven alder-twigs (Levseil). At other times the
lake is generally perfectly still, and reflects in a most remarkable
manner the surrounding mountains and waterfalls. There are but
few human settlements on its banks, under the threatening masses
of rock above.

On leaving 0veraas we see at first only a small part of the lake,
with the precipices of the Oogsere and Aashammeren to the left,
and the gaard of Meringdal, commanded by the Meringdalsnabbet
and the Sjedelen (5610 ft.), to the right. By and by, however, the
mountains recede, and the view over the lake is unimpeded. High
on the left is the Fletatind (5425 ft.). To the right the Nyheitinden
(5215 ft.) is visible above the Sj»delen. To the left again the
waterfall of Tongjem, and the two gaards of Viken, with the Vikes-
axlen (5970 ft.) above. On the W. side is the AZvelsbra, above
which is the imposing peak of the Juratind (5135 ft. ; ascent, see
p. 197). Above the gaard of Hoeim rise the snow-fields of the
Hoeimfjeld, commanded by the Hoeimtind (5700 ft.). Farther to
the right is the Rangaatind (5225 ft.), to the left the Aagottind
(5215 ft.) and the Bjerktind (4355 ft.).

The *Maradalsfos or Mardelafos now becomes conspicuous to
the right of the Rangaatind, near the head of the lake. This very
large and beautiful waterfall is formed by the Mardela, which
flows from an upland valley, about 2600 ft. above the sea-level.

Moldefjord. REITAN. 23. Route. 205

and falls sheer over an abrupt precipice, 650 ft. high. The mass
of water thus precipitated rebounds from the rock below and rises
in the air in clouds of spray. It then disappears and re-appears
farther down in two arms, which unite to form another huge fall.
A finer view of the fall is obtained by landing, but the lower fall
is alone accessible (fatiguing ascent of 3/4 hr. ; from Utigaard and
back about 3 hrs.). Farther on another and apparently larger fall
precipitates itself into the same basin, to the N. of the Mardelafos.

The lake now makes a slight curve to the S.E., and the gaard
of Reitan comes into view. Above the gaard we see a beautiful
veil-like waterfall and the Berfjeld.

The gaard of Reitan (*Halvor Reitan' s Inn, bed 1 kr., B. 60,
S. 70, D. 1 kr. 30 ».) lies about V2 Engl. M. from the landing-place
of Eikisdal, near the mouth of the Aura-Elv. About '/2 M. farther
up are the gaards of Utigaard (with 12 beds), which is a favourite
resort of sportsmen in search of reindeer, and Opigaard (fair quar-
ters). — A pretty walk up the valley, passing some mills to the
left , driven by a small stream that springs from the earth in the
immediate vicinity, brings us in 20 min. to the Eikisdals Chapel,
where the pastor of Nasset (p. 202) holds service 4 times in the
summer(noservicein winter). Following the path we next come to a
bridge over the Aura, near which is an apparatus for catching salmon .

The road leads farther up the valley, passing numerous pretty gaards,
to Finswt (11 Kil. from Reitan). Another hour (guide desirable, V2-I kr.)
brings us to the Aurestupene or Aurstaupa, the falls formed by the Auya,
which issues from the Aursj#.

From 0vevaai (comp. pp. 196-204) and from Reitan (see above) the
traveller may walk by fatiguing mountain-paths to Sten on the Isfjord
(p. 197) in 1012 hrs., and in 1 hr. more to N<es in the Romsdal. This
should be attempted only with a guide.

Fbom Reitan to Oemeim, in the Eomsdal, 7-8 hrs. (guide necessary).
The ascent to the Fjeld is rather steep, especially for the first 2 hrs.,
when we follow a brook and pass a waterfall seen opposite Reitan. In
4 hrs. we reach the top of the Fjeld and traverse snow-fields, fording
brooks and passing several large lakes. The descent lis easier. We do
not pass a seeter until within 1/4 hr. of Ormeim (see p. 201).

From Reitan we may proceed to Stueflolen (p. 201) via Tinsat (a long
day's walk).

24. Land Routes from Molde to Throndhjem.

225 Kil. (140 Engl. M.). As parts of the sea-route from Molde to Thrond-
hjem are usually 0 little rough, many travellers will prefer one of the
two following routes, which, however, are otherwise unattractive. Some
of the skyds-stations are 'slow'' (see below), and 'Forbud' should always
be sent on to them.

a. By Battenfjords#ren and Christianssund.

Departure from Molde not later than 6 a.m. To Baltenfjordseiren,
38 Kil. (24 Engl. SI.), by carriole (fast stations) ; thence in 2 hrs. to Christians-
sund by steamer, starting on Tues. and Frid. afternoon and Sun. evening
(comp. Communicationer, No. 266).

From Molde by (9 Kil.) Strande to (13 Kil.) Eide, see p. 202.
— Our road turns off to the N. at this point, and ascends to —

206 Route 24. ANGVIK.

9 Kil. Fursat. — 7 Kil. Battenfjordseren, with the steamer-
station Strand, at the S. end of the Battenfjord, which is surround-
ed by moutnains, 2500-3000 ft. high. The steamer touches at
Ohnna-s (see p. 173; slow skyds-station ; good quarters) , at the
entrance to the fjord ; then at Gulset, Stensvig, and Christianssund.

On any other than the three days that have been named , we
may drive from Fursset in a carriole to (16 Kil.) Oimnas (see
above) , whence we row to (8 Kil.) Fladsat (slow station), on the
Frede; thence by land across the island to (9 Kil.) Bolgen i Brems-
nas (slow station), and again by boat to (9 Kil.) Christianssund.

Christianssund, see p. 173. From here to Throndhjem it is best
to take the steamer 'Statsraad Riddervold', which performs the
journey both ways thrice weekly (Mon., Thurs., & Sat., starting
in the morning; 10-11 hrs. each way). Avoiding the open sea, it
sails to the S. through the Vinjefjord, passing the large islands of
Tustern, Stabben, and Ertvaage. It touches (alternately) at the
stations of Laurvig, Storeen, Magereen, Hevnskjel, Boreen, Kon-
gensvold, Beian, Braekstad, Ritsen, and Redberg (comp. Communi-
cationer, No. 268).

Throndhjem, see p. 216.

From Christianssund we may also take the Surendal steamer, twice
weekly (Tues. and Frid., 8 a.m.), to (7 hrs.)T Surendalseren, , and thence
follow the land route described below.

b. By Angvik and Orkedal.

With the exception of the first stage, this route is monotonous , and
on the whole little to be recommended. The stations are fast, with the
exception of Heggeim, Angvik, Koksvik i Thingvold, and Bolswt, to which
'Forbud' should therefore be sent. The accommodation at almost all the
stations is mediocre.

From Molde to (31 Kil.) Mad, see p. 197. — Then follow the
slow stations of (11 Kil.) Heggeim (655 ft.) and (11 Kil.) Angvik,
a station of the Sundal steamer (p. 173), whence we cross the
Sundalsfjord by rowing-boat to (6 Kil.) Koksvik i^Thingvold,[ also
a station of the Sundal steamer. At both of these places a steamer
calls twice weekly in each direction. We then proceed by carriole
to (7 Kil.) Behcet, and by rowing-boat to (7 Kil.) Stangvik (good
quarters), a station of the Surendal steamer. Then again by carriole
to (15 Kil.) Aasen, not far from the steamboat-station of Suren-
dalseren and the Surendal. — 10 Kil. Haandstad (75 ft.) — 15 Kil.
Koammen, where the Foldal, with its grand mountain-scenery,
opens to the S. — 10 Kil. Foseide, near the church of Rindalen
(470 ft.). — 14 Kil. Oarberg , the first place in the district of
Sandre Trondhjem. — 19 Kil. Aarlivold.

12 Kil. Bak i Brkedalen. [About 8 Kil. to the N. lies 0rke-
dalsuren (p. 210), whence on Mon., Wed., Frid., and Sat. after-
noons the steamer 'Orkla' sails for Throndhjem.]

19 Kil. Eli; 10 Kil. Saltncessanden ; 8 Kil. Heimdal, a sta-
tion on the Christiania and Throndhjem railway (p. 216).

207

25. From Domaas in the Gudbrandsdal to Storen

( Throndhjem) .

154 Kil. (95'/2 Engl. M.). Road, with fast stations, comparatively
little used since the opening of the railway described in R. 26. Travellers
from Molde who combine this route with a visit to the Romsdal easily
reach Throndhjem from Veblungsnws (p. 199) in four days. 1st day . to
Stnefloten, (p. 201); 2nd day, to Domaas; 3rd day, to Rise or Anne; 4th
day, to Steven, and in the evening by train to Throndhjem. — Walking
is recommended from Domaas to Fogstuen (6 Engl. M.), from Jerkin to
Drivstuen (16 M.), and from Austbjerg to Bjerkaker (7'/2 M.).

From Molde or Lillehammer to Domaas, see R. 15. Domaas lies
at the S. base of the Dovrefjeld, the most famous of the Norwegian
mountain-ranges , which separates Southern (Sendenfjelske) from
Northern ( Nordenfjelske) Norway. As the Norwegian mountains do
not form well-defined chains like the Alps, but consist of vast table-
lands, intersected here and there by valleys, there are no passes here
in the Swiss sense of the word. After reaching the lofty plateau the
road runs for many miles without much variation of level, and then
descends gradually to the 'nordenfjelske' valleys. A great part of
the route traverses lofty , bleak , and treeless solitudes , passing
rock-strewn tracts , swamps , gloomy lakes , and dirty masses of
snow, and is therefore far from picturesque. The solemn grandeur
of the scenery, however, has a peculiar weird attraction of its own,
and the pure mountain-air is remarkably bracing and exhilarating.
For botanists, zoologists, and sportsmen there are also abundant
attractions. Beyond Kongsvold, however, the character of the land-
scape changes. The road traverses the highly picturesque gorges of
the Driva and the Orkla, beyond which the country presents a more
smiling aspect and is comparatively well peopled. As Throndhjem
is approached the vegetation will strike the traveller as being re-
markably rich for so northerly a latitude (nearly the same as that
of the S. coast of Iceland).

The road at first ascends very rapidly , traversing moor and
swamp, scantily overgrown with stunted pines. Looking back , we
obtain an imposing survey of the mountains. To the W. lies the
Lesjevand (p. 126), which we passed on the way from the Romsdal
to Domaas. In about 1 hr. we reach the plateau. The road then
crosses the Fogsaae, an affluent of the Glommen. To the left are ex-
tensive mountain-plains where the sources of the Driva take their
rise, the waters of which descend to Sundal. On the Fogstulw we
observe three saeters on the right and others to the left. To the
N.W. rise the Hundsje and Skreda-Fjeld , and beyond them the
Snehattan, the snow-field and glacier of which in its W. basin
('Botn') are distinctly visible.

10 Kil. (pay for 11 in this direction) Fogstuen or Fokstuen
(3120 ft. ; *Ant. Solberg's Inn, with 30 rooms and 45 beds), is one
of the four 'Fjeldstuer', or mountain-inns, which were founded by
government on the Dovrefjeld for the accommodation of travellers

208 Route -'5. JERKIN. From Domaas

so i'ar back as 1107-10. The landlords still receive an annual sub-
sidy from government, and it is part of their duty to keep the roads
open in winter and to forward the mails. The other three 'Fjeld-
stuer' are Jerkin, Kongsvold, and Drivstuen.

'From my inmost soul I commended the good king Eyslein, who in
1120 built these four Fjeldstuer on the Dovrefjeld for the benefit of way-
farers crossing the mountain'. (L. v. Buck.)

From Fogstuen the old road , now disused , leads across the lofty
Ilardbakken (3750 ft.) direct to Toftemoen in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 125). —
L. v. Buch, who traversed this route at the end of April (i.e. in winter)
writes: 'The lofty pyramid of the Snehsetta then came in sight in the
midst, of the fog, several miles to the north. So rises Mont Blanc , when
seen from the Brevent , from its mantle of ice. It is not a mere moun-
tain , but a mountain on a mountain. A great and sublime apparition
commanding the whole of this solitude1.

The road from Fogstuen to Jerkin is nearly level the greater
part of the way, and the scenery is monotonous. We pass several
lakes ( Vardesje, Afsje, etc.) formed by the Fogsaae, which farther
on is called the Folda. On the right are the Blaaheer. On the
Vardesje (2985 ft.), and to the right farther on, there are several
s;eters. The road leaves the valley of the Folda and ascends to —

21 Kil. Jerkin (3140 ft. : excellent station), situated in the
midst of wild and desolate scenery , is a good starting-point for
reindeer-stalkers and anglers , and also for the ascent of the Sne-
hiettan. The *Kitchen of the old house, with its antique carved fur-
niture, is an object of great interest. One of the chairs dates from
1676. Pleasant walk to the Jerkinhe, the highest point on the old
road (4105 ft.).

The Snehaettan (7770 ft. ; 'snow-hat'), which ranks about sixth among
the mountains in Norway in point of height, is most conveniently ascended
from Jerkin. The ascent was accomplished for the first time by Esmark
at the end of last century , and has very frequently been made since.
(Guide 2. horse 6'/2 kr. ; 'Niste', or provisions, necessary.) For 3-4 hrs. we
ride across a bleak rocky and mossy tract, crossing several torrents, and
lastly ascend on foot for 2-3 hrs. over snow and ice. For the whole
excursions 12 hrs. at least should be allowed. In clear weather (which is
rare on the Dovrefjeld) the view is very extensive in every direction, but
deficient in picturesqueness and far inferior to that from the Galdhtfpiggen
(p. 146). The chief object of interest is the finely shaped mountain itself,
composed of mica-slate.

An attractive route, with fast stations (low tariff) and good quarters,
leads from Jerkin through the Foldal to Lille- Elvdal in the valley of
the Glommen (railway-station, p. 213). The stations are : 17 Kil. Dalen,
17 Kil. Krokhaugen, 18 Kil. RyJiaugen, and 32 Kil. Steien, near Lille-Elvdal.
From Krokhaugen a road leads to the S. to the Atnevand and the Rdndane
(see p. 213).

The new road from Jerkin to Kongsvold ascends a hill to the
W. , and then descends gradually to the Svonaae , the course of
which it now follows. We enjoy a very striking *View of the
Sneha>,ttan, which looks quite near. The road crosses the boundary
between the Stift of Hamar and that of Throndhjem , and gradu-
ally descends into the valley of the rapid Drii-n,, the course of
which it follows down to Aune.

13 Kil. Kongsvold (about 3100 ft.; fair' station) also forms

to Throndhjem. DRIVSTUEN. 25. Route. 209

good headquarters for sportsmen. The SnehaHtan may he ascended
hence almost as easily as from Jerkin, and the Knutshe (5565 ft. ;
similar view), which is especially interesting to botanists, may
also be ascended hence (3 hrs.).

Beyond Kongsvold the road descends through the very pictur-
esque *Ravine of the Driva, the first part of -which at least
should be traversed on foot. In winter the route formerly used
was the frozen and snow-clad river, while the summer-route,
called the Vaarsti ('spring-path'), was a very steep and tortuous
path on the right bank of the stream. Pedestrians are recommend-
ed to follow this disused route, which is very interesting , and
to send on their horses to the point where it rejoins the road. This
ravine is bounded by enormous precipices, from which numerous
waterfalls descend, while the Driva itself forms a series of magni-
ficent cataracts. Fine Alpine flora.

15 Kil. Drivstuen (good station), the fourth of the 'Fjeld-
stuer' on the Dovrefjeld. The valley expands and the vegetation
becomes richer. Birches and pines clothe the slopes. A few fields
of barley and potatoes also appear. Scenery still fine. The road
passes the Aamots-Elv and crosses the Driva by a handsome new
bridge, a little beyond which is a gorge called *Magalaupet {Laup,
'gorge', 'gully' ; caution necessary in approaching the edge). The
Driva forms imposing waterfalls here. The broad Drivadal, a lower
and more fertile zone of the valley, now suddenly comes{in view,
and we descend to —

12 Kil. (pay for 17 in either direction) Rise (tolerable station).
The Vinstra, descending from the right, falls into the Driva here.
The Dovrefjeld terminates at —

10 Kil. Aunt (about 1750 ft. ; good station), sometimes called
Ny-Aune or Ny-0vnt , in the Opdal. To the W. rises the lofty
Munkevoldsfjeld, and to the E. the Allmandbjerg.

From Aune an interesting road diverges to the left, following the
Driva, which is afterwards called the Sundals-Elv, and descends the Sundal
to Sundalsuren (71 Kil.). The stations on this road are all fast. — The
somewhat hilly road leads first to (11 Kil.) Aalbu (tolerable quarters) and
then descends through a ravine, passing Gravaune, to (16 Kil. ; pay in
this direction for 18, and in the other for 21) Sliper (1800 ft. ; poor quar-
ters). It next crosses the Graauren, a hill at the side of which the
Driva rushes through a deep gorge. At (10 Kil. ; pay in the reverse
direction for 14) Gera (good quarters) begins the -Sundal, a valley which
vies in grandeur of scenery with the Romsdal. The road follows the
course of the Sundals-Elv pretty closely. 17 Kil. Storfale (good and moder-
ate quarters). Avalanches and stones frequently fall from Ithe dizzy
heights of the Romfogkjwrringerne, Klengfjeld, and Hoaasncebba, and at
some of the most dangerous points the traveller is warned by his>ttendant
to drive as quickly as possible ('Sneeskred ! kj#r til').

19 Kil. SundalsjBren (accommodation at the 'landhandlerV) , at the
S. end of the Sundalsfjord , on which a steamer plies thrice weekly in
8'/2hrs. to Christianssund (comp. p. 173; excursion steamers in summer).
The neighbouring mountains rise to a height of 5000-6000 ft., the most
conspicuous being the Qrevncebba and Hofsnwbba to the N., and the Kalken
to the S. To the S. opens the romantic "Liltdal, which may be visited

Baedeker's Norwav and SwpHp™ ^ti» t?m* j^

210 Route 25. BJERKAKER.

by carriage in 3-4 hrs. (road to Dale, 11 Kil.). — If the traveller misses
the steamboat, he should take a rowing-boat to (22 Kil.) Eidseren (p. 173)
and drive thence by carriole to Eidsvaag (p. 202).

From the Liltdal we may cross to Viken on the Eikisdalsvand (p. 204)
in one day. The last part of the descent is steep. Guide necessary.

Beyond Aune the road quits the valley of the Driva and be-
comes uninteresting. It follows the course of the Byna and crosses
the low watershed between that stream and the 0rkla, which falls
into the Throndhjem Fjord at 0rkedals»ren (see below). Beyond —

14 Kil. Stuen, or Nystuen (good station) , the road descends
to the 0rkla, which is crossed by a handsome bridge. The river
forms a line waterfall here. Then a steep ascent to —

11 Kil. Austbjerg (1365 ft. ; tolerable), from which the road,
still ascending , and traversing forest , follows the magnificent
*Ravine of the 0rkla, the bed of which is 700 ft. below us. Beau-
tiful views , particularly of the snow-mountains to the S.W.

From Austbjerg to T0Ns;et, 77 Kil. (48 Engl. M.); good road, with
fast stations (ordinary tariff), leading through meadows and forests (fine
views) and affording a pleasant passage from the 0rkladal to the Glommen-
dal. The road passes the church of Inset, then runs high above the
flrhla Ravine, crosses the foaming Naven (Jfwva) at some copper-works
with large chimneys, and reaches (11 Kil.) Jfceverdal (poor quarters). The
river forms several rapids, which alternate with smooth, pond-like ex-
pansions. — 13 Kil. (pay for 17) Frengstad (indifferent quarters). We then
pass the church of Kvikne, with the adjoining gaards (in one of which
B. Fjtfrnson, the novelist, was born) and cross a bridge over the brawl-
ing Jen-Elv. The road ascends high on the right bank of this stream to
the solitary station of (14 Kil., pay for 17) Steen i Kvikne (tolerable quar-
ters). Soon after we cross the low watershed and descend to the Tennen,
which Hows through the Stubs** (right) and enters the Glommen at Tunswt.
— 15 Kil. (pay for 17) Nylreen (good accommodation at a fine farm-house).
The road leads across the T#nnen to (10 Kil., pay for 12) Fosbakken (toler-
able quarters), where we have a fine view of the 0sterdal Mts. — 14 Kil,
(pay for 17) Tenscet (p. 214).

12 Kil. Bjerkaker (1325 ft. ; good station) lies on the watershed
between the 0rkla and the Gula.

From Bjerkaker a road with fast stations leads to (74 Kil. or 46 Engl.
M.) 0rkedalseren on the Throndhjem Fjord, whence a steamboat starts
for Throndhjem four times weekly (see p. 217). The road passes Oaard
Hoel, where a famous drinking-horn is still shown, presented by
Christian V., out of which Charles XIV. John (Bernadotte), Oscar I., and
Charles XV. respectively drank when on their way to be crowned at
Throndhjem. The horn bears inscriptions relating to its history. A huge
birch-tree at Hoel, 9 ft. in circumference, is also worthy of notice. The
first station is (14 Kil.) Haarstad (720 ft.). Farther on we pass Oaard Uf,
with a very old building, the wood-carving on which is said to have been
executed by the 'Jutuls' (giants) with their finger-nails. Next station
(14 Kil.) G rut; then (11 Kil.) Kalstad i Meldalen, from which a road
leads to the W. via. Qarberg and Foseid to SurendaUeren (p. 206). Our
road, which leads due N., passes Lekkens Kobbervcurk, crosses the 0rkla,
and next reaches (15 Kil.) Aarlivold (good quarters), whence a road to
the S.W. also leads to Surendalserren , while another road leads to the
E. to (17 Kil.) Kraakstad and the (17 Kil., pay for 19) Hovin railway-station
(p. 215). From (12 Kil.) Bak, the next station on our route, a road leads
to the E. via (13 Kil., pay for 15) By and (12 Kil.) Saltncessanden to
(11 Kil.) Heimdal, a railway-station near Throndhjem (p. 216). We next
reach (8 Kil.) 0rkedals0ren (Rian't Inn; telegraph-station), from which
Throndhjem may be reached by steamboat in 3-4 hrs. (comp. p. 217).

ULVIN. 2(1. Route 21 1

Beyond Bjerkaker the road traverses the Soknedal and follows
the course of the Igla, and afterwards that of the Stavilla and
Hauka, the united waters of which take the name of Sokna and
fall into the Quia at Steren. The vegetation becomes richer, and
the traveller might imagine he was approaching a more southern
region instead of so high a latitude.

12 Kil. Oarli (1355 ft.; good station) lies on a height to the
left. The road descends through a picturesque ravine with water-
falls and mills. Beyond the church of Soknedalen we reach —

10 Kil. Prasthus (700 ft. ; poor station).

14 Kil. St«ren or Engen i Steren (210 ft. ; Hotel $■ Restaurant,
adjoining the railway-station). Travellers arriving here and in-
tending to start again by train should drive direct to the rail-
way-station. — From Steren to Throndhjem {W/i-V/z hrs. by
train), see p. 215.

26. From Christiania to Throndhjem.

562 Kil. (349jEngl. M.). Railway (Nordbaneme). In summer a through-
train runs daily, stopping at 14 only out of 75 stations and accomplishing
the whole distance in 171/4 hrs. (fares 50 kr. 60, 42 kr. 40 0., 24 kr. ; sleep-
ing-berth 5 kr. extra). Other trains stop for the night at (11-13 hrs.) Tenswt,
arriving in Throndhjem the following afternoon (fares 29 kr. 70, 17 kr.
58 0.). Tickets for the slow trains cannot in any way be made available
for the through express. It is advisable to write or telegraph to a hotel
at Tenscet in order to secure a comfortable room. — There are 11 rail-
way-restaurants on the line. Dinners are provided for travellers going N.
at Hamar and Steven (1 kr. 25 0.), notice being given to the guard; tra-
vellers going S. dine at Singsaas or Hamar. But these arrangements are
liable to change.

With the exception of Lake Mj0sen there is almost nothing on this
route to induce the traveller to make any stoppage or detour. The best
views between Hamar and Rena are to the right, thence to Throndhjem,
to the left. This last portion of the journey, especially after R0ros, is
the most beautiful. The scenery is monotonous, and the extensive forests
on the E. frontier present attractions only to sportsmen and anglers. Of
the numerous lakes in the district traversed by the railway the largest
is the Foemmid-Sjei (ca. 2300 ft. ; steamer), which may be visited by carriole
from Rjjros (new road, 35 Kil. ; scarcely worth while).

From Christiania to (68 Kil. or 42 Engl. M.) Eidsvold (410 ft),
see p. 118. — The railway journey from Eidsvold to Hamar pre-
sents little variety of scenery, but is preferable to the longer
steamboat journey. To the left we have a view nearly the whole
way of the Mjesen (p. 118), the Skreiafjeld (p. 118), and the
Helgee (p. 119); to the right, in the distance, are the mountains
of the 0sterdal. The train follows the right (W.) bank of the
pretty Vormen to its efflux from the Mjesen (405 ft.), near —

75 Kil. (46i/2 Engl. M.) Minne (465 ft.). At the Minnesund
it crosses the river by an iron bridge, 65 ft. high and 1180 ft. long,
and then skirts the E. bank of the Mjesen.

84 Kil. (52 M.) Vlvin (420 ft.), commanding a fine view of
the Bay of Feiring , on the opposite side of the lake. The train
now enters the Hedemarkens Amt. 97 Kil. E.tpen (425 ft.), situated

14*

212 Route M. ELVERUM. From Chrtetiania

on the picturesque bay of Korsedegaard. 102 Kil. TangenfbiO ft.),
with the church of the same name. In the fertile environs lie the
gaards of Korsede, Hof, and Vik. The train now ascends through
a solitary wooded region to (114 Kil.) Stange (730 ft.), and then
descends through a well-tilled district. 119 Kil. Ottestad (620 ft.),
situated on the Akersvik , which the train crosses by an embank-
ment and a bridge.

126 Kil. (78 M.) Hamar (415 ft,; Kail. Restaurant), see p. 119.
— We now change carriages, and proceed by the narrow-gauge
Reros Railway.

The train gradually ascends the sparsely peopled and at places
thickly wooded region of Hedemarken. The scenery is uninterest-
ing, and the stations are unimportant. 129 Kil. Aker (405 ft.);
131 Kil. Hjellum; 135 Kil. Jlseng. Near (139 Kil.) Hersand
(570 ft.) we obtain a fine view of the Skreia Mts., to the S. of
Lake Mjasen. 141 Kil. Aadalsbrug. Beyond (144 Kil.) Leiten
(760 ft.) we pass the drilling-ground of Terningmoen , and soon
reach —

158 Kil. (98 M. ) Elverum (600 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; St. Olafs
Hotel, well spoken of), the first station in the valley of the Glom-
men, the longest river in Norway (entering the sea at Frederikstad),
the valley of which the train follows all the way to Reros. The im-
portant Orundset- Marked, a great horse and timber fair, takes place
here annually in March. The environs of Elverum are strewn with
pleasant-looking farms. The peasantry of 0sterdalen, or the district
traversed by the Glommen and its affluents, are among the richest
in Norway, some of their forest-estates embracing an area of many-
square miles. Until recently the value of timber here was small,
from lack of means of transport, but it has largely increased since the
completion of the railway. The gaards of the wealthier landowners
are most comfortably and even luxuriously fitted up , although
their proprietors still adhere with pride to their original name of
peasants or farmers (Gaardbruger). At the end of June or begin-
ning of July a number of these stalwart yeomen are frequently to
be seen at Christiania, where it is not uncommon for a single pro-
prietor to conclude a contract for the sale of a hundred thousand
crowns' worth of timber. The timber is felled in autumn and win-
ter, during which seasons the hardy wood -cutters often spend
weeks in the forest, in spite of the intense cold, passing the night
in wretched little huts. The forests are full of game. The char-
acteristic form of the old-fashioned houses of the district, with
their open roofs and tall chimneys, has been retained in many of
the railway buildings. Comp. Broch's Kongeriget Norge (Christia-
nia, 1876).

The next stations are (164 Kil.) Orundset and (171 Kil ) 0xna
(666 ft.). Near (IS4 Kil.) Aasla (740 ft.) the train crosses the
river of that name.

to Throndhjem. KOPPANG. 26. Route. 213

190 Kil. (118 M.) Rena (735 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), prettily
situated near the church of Aamot , in the vicinity of which are
several inns. Near (204 Kil.) Stenviken (785 ft.) the train crosses
to the E. hank of the Glommen (views to the left). 214 Kil. Ophus
(805 ft.). To the right a precipitous wall of rock. The Glommen
forms several lake-like expansions. 224 Kil. Hasten (840 ft.). Beyond
(237 Kil.) Stai (860 ft.) the mountains enclosing the valley become
higher.

247 Kil. (153 M.) Koppang (915 ft. ; *Hansen, 200 paces to
the left of the egress from the station ; Jembane Hotel , opposite
the station, R. l^/j, S. l'/g kr. i Koppang Hotel ; Skyds-Station, in
the village, 10 min. distant), situated on a height above the river
and commanding a good view of the valley. To the W., rising
above the forests, are several lofty mountains, the tops of which are
carpeted with yellow moss.

The train now runs through the woods, at a considerable height
above the Glommen, and crosses two bridges. Fine views towards
the S. The ground is often completely covered with lichen and
moss. The mountains increase in height, and the valley contracts.
Large masses of 'Epilobium' , a plant of which the roots and
young shoots are eaten by the Norwegians, are seen here huns up
to dry on hedges and frames. — 262 Kil. Bjeraanasset (1160 ft.).

272 Kil. (169 M.) Atna (1170 ft.), near the mouth of the Atne-
Elv, is the station for several gaards on the opposite bank.

An interesting excursion may be taken hence (comp. p. 122) to the
W. to Solliden and Atnebro (good quarters at the gaards Ncesset, Bvmn-
den, Uti, and TVtfert), near the Atne-Sj0 , commanding an imposing view
of the chief peaks of the Rondane : the Rondeslot (7100 ft.) , the He-
gi-ond (6700 ft..), the Stygfjeld (6730 ft.), and the Rundvasheigda (6900 ft.).
These peaks may he ascended from Slramboden in the upper Atnedal,
and through the Langglupdal. (Ola Slreimboden, at the Sendre Gaard of
Str0mboden, is a good guide.) — From Str0mboden a path leads across
the hills to the Bjernhull-Sceter (good quarters), the Myssu-Swler . and
through the Uladal to the S. to Moen i Sel in the Gudbrandsdal (p. 124). —
A road leads from Atnebro to Strombu, BUesterdalen (to the E. of which
rises the Store Selen or Dele Selen, 5800 ft.), and (33 Kil.) Krokhang-
Foldalen, on the road between Lille-Elvdal and Jerkin (p. 208).

285 Kil. (177 Engl. M.) Hannestad (1250 ft.), opposite which
rises the imposing Orettingbratten (3820 ft.). The train skirts the
river, and then again enters a monotonous wooded district. At
(304 Kil.) Barkald (1485 ft.) the Glommen forms the Barkaldfos.
About l/t hr. to the E. of Barkald is the curious gorge of Jutul-
hugget, enclosed on every side except the E., and formed, accord-
ing to local tradition, by the attempt of a giant to divert the waters
of the Glommen into the Rendal.

324 Kil. (201 M.) Lille-Elvdal (1660 ft.; Rail. Restaurant;
Steien's Hotel, well spoken of), whence a road ascends the Elvdal
to Jerkin (p. 208). A bridge crosses the Glommen here , and
there is another a little lower down. — The train now skirts
the base of the Tronfjeld (5610 ft.), a lofty mountain consisting

214 Route 26. T0NSjET. From Christiania

of gabbro and serpentine rocks, which may be ascended from Lille-
Klvdal, and commands an extensive view (carriage-road nearly the
whole way to the top). It appears in its full grandeur as we leave
it behind us. — 337 Kil. Auma (1600 ft.). Near this point are
large tracts of dead pine-trees, killed by the extreme cold of win-
ter, when the thermometer sometimes sinks 60° Fahr. below zero.
The scenery is very dreary.

347 Kil. (215 M.) Ttfnsset (1620 ft.; Schulrud's Hotel),
situated near the confluence of the Tenna and the Glommen,
principally on the right bank of the latter. A road with fast
stations leads hence via Kvikne to Austbjerg (p. 210). Farther on the
line traverses the extensive Godtlandsmyr. To the S.W., on the right
side of the Tronfjeld, rise the summits of the Rondane (p. 213).

358 Kil. (222 M.) Telnms (1630 ft.). The train ascends more
rapidly. Pasturage now takes the place of tilled fields. 368 Kil.
Tolyen (1685 ft.), in an open situation. To the right rises the
Hummelfjeld (5150 ft.). The vegetation assumes a thoroughly Al-
pine character.

385 Kil. (240 M.) Os (1975 ft.) ; the village lies on a slope
(Lid) on the opposite bank. Beyond Os the train crosses the
Neren-Elv, traverses a wide moor, and reaches —

399 Kil. (247 M.) Raros or Reraas (2060 ft. ; Larseri s Hotel;
*Rail. Restaurant), with 1700 inhab., situated on a dreary and in-
clement plateau , where winter prevails for fully eight months in
the year. The town was founded in 1646 after the discovery of the
neighbouring copper-mines , to which alone it owes its existence.
It lies on the Hitter-Elv, and not far from the Glommen, which de-
scribes a bend to the "W. of the town. The old timber houses, with
roofs of turf, and the large church of 1780 give the town a quaint
and picturesque appearance. The wide expanses of turf are
bordered by extensive terraces of glacial detritus and sandhills,
which by dint of painstaking and ample manuring have been con-
verted into pastures . Corn does not ripen here, and cattle-breeding is
the only resource of the inhabitants, apart from the copper-mines
and the trade they support.

The annual yield of the mines is about 280 tons of pure copper, and
that of the two centuries since thev were discovered is said to have been
worth 72 million kr. in all (4,000,0007.). Far and near, the woods which
formerly existed here have been cut down and used as fuel, but the
works are now carried on with the aid of coal brought by the railway.
The principal mines are Slorearts Grube, 2716 ft. above the sea-level,
9 Kil. to the N.E., the ore of which yields 8 per cent of copper; near it,
Ny Solskins Grube; to the N.W. of the town, t4 Kil., Kongens Grube,
yielding 4 per cent of copper; Mug Grube, 22 Kil. distant. The smelt-
ing-works are the Keri-os Hytte, the Dragaas Hytle at Aalen , and the
Lovisa Hytte at Lille- Elvdal.

From Rprros we may drive by skyds, via (17 Kil.) Jensvold and (18 Kil.)
Skotgaarden on Lake Aursund (both fast stations), to a settlement of Noma-
dic Lapps, said to be the southernmost point to which they come (comp.
pp. 87, 96). This trip, however, involves considerable privations.

From Karos, which is a terminal station, the train returns on

to Throndhjem. ST0REN. 26. Route. 215

the same rails for a few hundred yards to the main line (views to
the left). It then passes Storskaroen on the right , and traverses
a bleak and monotonous plateau. Near (406 Kil.) Nypladsen (2055 ft.)
is the Kongens Orube, with the huts of the miners. Large piles of
copper oYe(Kobbermalm) are generally to be seen waiting for trans-
port at the station. A little farther on is the site of an old furnace,
marked by its deep copper colour. — "We now cross the turbulent
Glommen, which descends from the Aursund-Sjei (2155 ft.). Beyond
(412 Kil.) Jensvold (2090 ft.), the train crosses large expanses of
debris. A stone to the left marks the highest point of the railway
(2200 ft.), on the watershed between the Glommen and the Gula.
The train now follows the valley of the latter to Melhus.

420 Kil. (260 M.) Tyvold (2180 ft.). The train descends cir-
cuitously on the slope of a broad mountain basin. Beyond (432 Kil.)
Eeitan (1780 ft.) it passes on the left some picturesque gaards in
the old Norwegian style , and traverses several cuttings through
the rocks. Below lies the church of Hov.

442 Kil. (274 M.) Eidet (1380 ft.). We now reach the most
picturesque part of the line. The train crosses the Dreilierne,
passing through seven short tunnels, and enters the deep wooded
ravine of the Dreia, which it traverses by means of a lofty bridge.
In the cuttings we distinguish first the clay-slate, and afterwards
the granite and gneiss formations. 454 Kil. Holtaalen (985 ft.),
prettily situated in the bottom of the valley, with an old timber-
built church. The costume of the peasantry here is interesting,
usually consisting of a red jacket, leathern breeches, and a Toplue
or peaked woollen cap. We now descend the valley of the Gula to
(463 Kil.) Langlete (770 ft.) and (472 Kil.) Reitsteen (670 ft.). —
480 Kil. (298 M.) Singsaas (575 ft. ; Restaurant), with a bridge
over the Gula. Large terraces of debris to the left mark the en-
trance of the Forradal. On the same side is a fine waterfall. —
486 Kil. Bjergen (455 ft.), prettily situated. Three short tunnels.
499 Kil. Rognas (300 ft.), with another bridge over the Gula. A
little above Steren, to the left, lies the church of Engen, situated
at the confluence of the Sokna-Elv and the Gula. We then cross
the Gula and reach —

510 Kil. (316 M.) St»ren (290 ft.; Railway Restaurant; see
p. 211), in a beautiful district on the Gula, perhaps the most
prettily situated place on the whole line. The scenery here presents
a park-like appearance ; the valley is well cultivated at places, and
the rocky mountains enclosing it are partly wooded. — Road from
Steren over the Dovrefjeld to the Oudbrandsdal, see R. 25.

The remaining stations are unimportant. Beyond (517 Kil.)
Hovin (170 ft.) the train crosses the river, which here forms the
Gulefos. 524 Kil. Lundemo (108 ft.) ; 530 Kil. Ler (80 ft.). The
train ascends to (535 Kil.) Kvaal (160 ft.) and then re-descends
to (538 Kil.) Seberg (100 ft.) and (541 Kil.) Melhus (75 ft.), with a

216 Route 27. THRONDJHEM.

picturesquely situated church. Numerous terraces and mounds of
debris, probably clue to glacier-action, are passed. We now quit
the valley of the Gula, which turns to the W. and flows into the
Oulosen, an arm of the Throndhjem Fjord. Shortly before reaching
(546 Kil.) Nypen (230 ft.), which is called at only by local trains,
we obtain a fine view of the fjord, to the W. of Throndhjem.
550 Kil. Heimdal (465 ft.).

The line follows the left bank of the Nid, passes between Thron-
dhjem and the suburb of Men, and describing a curve round the
N. side of the town, enters the station of —

562 Kil. (349 M.) Throndhjem, see below.

27. Throndhjem and its Environs.

'Det er seta /avert in Throndhjem at hvile'
'Tis so pleasant in Throndhjem to dwell.

(Burden of an Old Song.)

Arrival. The station lies to the N. of the town, by the harbour. Carriages
and porters (Bybud) with hand-carts (Triller) await the arrival of passen-
gers at the railway -stations, and also at the quays at the mouth of the
Hid near the Toldbod (Brateren) or on the Nykaie. A slight customhouse
examination takes place on board the steamer. The principal hotels are
all about 5-10 min. walk from the stations and the quay.

Hotels. "Britannia, Dronningens-Gade, "Angletekre (E. G. Thane),
Nordre-Gade, both frequented bv English travellers ; charges similar, R.
from li/a kr., L. 40, A. 40, B. 1 kr. 40<*., with hot dishes 2i/4 kr., D. 3, S.
2kr. ; baths and carriages at the hotels. "Noedkap, Strand-Gade6, opened in
1888; 'Victoria, Dronningens-Gade 64, D.2kr. ; Grand Hotel (P. Gjemso),
at the corner of the Krambod-Gade and the Strand-Gade, R. 1 kr. 50 0.,
I). 1 kr. 60 0. ; Scandinavie, at the harbour.

Cafes. Britannia; Theatre Restaurant; Grand Cafe", adjoining the theatre.
— Spirits cannot be obtained either in the hotels or restaurants (comp. p. 70).

Post and Telegraph Office at the corner of theNordreandKongens-Gade.

Skyds-Station : Ole Wold, Btfrsvendveiten. — Carriages: P. Rest,
Karl-Johans-Gade, and Kolberg, 0rgaveiten, both near the Angleterre; 0.
Solberg, Apothekerveiten , at the back of the Britannia ; Ellefsen, Gau-
baekveiten — Cabs in the Torv.

Banks. Norges Bank, at the corner of the Kongens-Gade and Kj0h-
mands-Gade; Privatbank, Sjzrndre-Gade; NordenfjeUke Kredit-Bank, at the
corner of Dronningens-Gade and Sizrndre-Gade; and several others. Money
may also be exchanged at Mr. Kjeldsberg's, the English vice-consul, at
the corner of the Strand-Gade and Sjzrndre-Gade, and at Mr. Claus Berg's
(.firm of Lundgrens Enke), the American vice-consul, Munke-Gade, at the
corner of the Torv. The usual bank office-hours are 10-1 o'clock.

Consuls. English and American , see above. German, A. Jenssen,
junr., Kj<rt>mands-Gade ; French, H. T. Gram, S0ndre-Gade; Austrian,
H. Thaulow, Munke-Gade. Also Danish, Russian, and others.

Baths. Warm, shower, vapour, and Turkish baths in the new Bath
House, at the corner of the Dronningens-Gade and Krambodveiten. —
Sea Baths, on the breakwater, reached by boat from the N. end of the
Munke-Gade.

Shops. Preserved meats, biscuits, wines, spirits, etc., at Kjeldsberg's
and at Lundgrens Enke's (see above). A cheap and not unpalatable spirit
in great local repute is that of the distillery of Lysholm, procured at 26
Strand-Gade. — Furs at J. N. Brunn's, Strand-Gade 37, one of the
best shops of the kind in Norway; eider-down 16-24 kr. per lb., according
to quality. — Carved wood, 'Tolleknive', etc., at BlikslaoVs, opposite the

Situation. THRONDHJEM. 27. Route. 217

Victoria Hotel ; good and cheap at the Tuffthuset. — Ornaments, including
small reproductions in repousse and chased work of the figures in the
cathedral, at H. Atelier's, Dronningens-Gade 28. — Booksellers : A. Brum,
Kongens-Gade ; A. Holbaik Eriksen, at the corner of Nordre-Gade and
Dronningens-Gade. — Photographs at Brcekslad's, S#ndre-Gade.

Newspapers at the Club Harmonien, in the Harmonic building, at the
S.W. corner of the Torv (introduction through a member), and in the
Reading Room of the Britannia Hotel.

Theatre and Concert Room, at the corner of Prindsens-Gade and
Vestre-Gade. — The Hjorten, a 'Lyststed' or kind of 'Tivoli1, at the W.
end of the Ihlen suburb, is a popular resort (theatricals and music fre-
quently in summer).

Steamboats. All the steamboats start from the pier (Braleren) at
the month of the Nid, the larger generally at high tide only, the smaller
at any time. It should be noted that the larger vessels sometimes start
from the pier before their time and cast anchor oft Ihlen, the W. suburb.
The principal services are at present the following (comp. Communica-
lioner). Towards the S. : to Christianssund on Sun., Wed., and Thurs.
mornings; to Christianssund, Bergen, Christianssatid , and Christiania on
Tues. at 7.30 a.m. and at midnight, and Thurs. 7.30 a.m. ; to Hamburg on
Sat. at 7 a.m.; to Hull on alternate Thursdays. — Towards the N. : to
Tromse , Hammerfest, the North Cape, and Varde, see R. 29. — In the
Fjord : to ffrkedalseren on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 8 a.m.; to Beian
once daily ; to Lcvanger, Vcerdalseren, Stenkjcer, see p. 223. — All the
coasting and local steamers stop at numerous stations. The above ser-
vices are of course liable to alteration.

English Church Service in summer in the Chapter House of the
Cathedral.

Points of Interest. Cathedral (p. 219); walks to C/irislianslen on the
E. side of the town (p. 221), and to the Slenbjerg to the S.W. — A fa-
vourite excursion is to the Lerfos (3'/2-4 hrs. there and back; see p. 222).

Of all the larger towns in Europe Throndhjem, with 24,000 in—
hab., is the northernmost, being situated in 63° 30' N. lat. , the
same latitude as the S. coast of Iceland. It lies on a peninsula at
the mouth of the Nid, and on the N. bank of the very extensive and
picturesque fjord called after it. The vegetation of the beautiful
undulating environs is remarkably rich for so northerly a latitude,
and among the trees fine old walnuts occur frequently. The mean
annual temperature is about 42° Fahr. (corresponding with the
mean winter temperature of the S. coasts of England and Ire-
land), while that of Christiania is 41° only (that of the Shetland
Islands 45°). Christiania, on the other hand, is warmer in summer
and colder in winter, the July temperature being 62° and that of
Throndhjem 53° only. Many of the inhabitants are wealthy and
prosperous, and they have long been noted for the kindliness of
their disposition. Throndhjem is the capital of the district of
Threndelagen, and its inhabitants are called ' Thrender.

The greater part of the town lies on the Nidarnces, a peninsula
resembling a flg in shape, formed by the fjord on the N. side and
the circuitous course of the Nid on the S.W., S. , and E. sides.
At a bend of the river to the W., where it approaches within a
few hundred paces of the fjord before making its final sweep round
■ the town, lies the suburb of lhlen (probably from lie , 'an in-
trenchment'). Opposite , on the right bank of the river, is the
peninsula called 0en. The Nid then falls into the fjord at Brateren

218 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. History.

on the E. side of the town. Beyond its mouth, to theE., rises
the suburb of BaMandet ('hilly land'), with picturesque heights
beyond it, the chief of which is the Blasevoldbakken (p. 221), with
the old fortress of Christiansten, terminating in the promontory of
Hladehammeren. On the S.W. side of the town, to the S. of Ihlen,
rises the Stenbjerg, with numerous villas. All these heights com-
mand picturesque views.

The town is regularly and on the whole handsomely built, al-
though chiefly of timber. The wideness of the streets (100-120 ft.),
which generally intersect each other at right angles, is intended
to diminish the danger of fire. Many of the large warehouses fac-
ing the Kjeibmands- Oade are supported on piles sunk in the river.
The windows of many of the houses are embellished with a beautiful
show of flowers. In the Kongens-Gade are several tastefully-kept
little gardens, where the Sorbus Scandia frequently recurs.

Down to the middle of the 16th cent, the name of the town was
Nidaros ('mouth of the river Nid' ; Aa , Aar , signifying 'river , and Os,
'estuary') or Kaupanger i Thrdndhjem ('merchants' town in Throndhjem'),
after which period the present name came into general use. Like Upsala
in Sweden, Throndhjem, which has been called the 'strength and heart
of the country', may be regarded as the cradle of the kingdom of Norway,
and it was on Bratgfren here that the Norwegian monarchs were usu-
ally elected and crowned. Here, too, was the meeting-place of the famous
ffrething. So early as the year 996 Olaf Tryggvason founded a palace to
the S. of Braterren and a church which he dedicated to St. Clement.
St. Olaf, who is regarded as the founder of the town (1016) , revived the
plans of Olaf Tryggvason, which had fallen into abeyance after his death,
and after the death of 'the saint' at the battle of Stiklestad (1030) a new
impulse was given to building enterprise. His remains were brought to
Throndhjem and buried there, but were soon afterwards transferred to a
reliquary and placed on the high-altar of St. Clement's Church, where they
attracted hosts of pilgrims , not only from other parts of Norway , but
even from foreign countries. The spot where St. Olaf was originally
buried was by the spring adjoining the S. side of the choir of the present
cathedral, and on that site a magnificent church was subsequently erected.
Though now little more than a fragment, having been repeatedly de-
stroyed by fire and sadly disfigured by alterations and additions, it is
still the most beautiful and interesting church in the three Scandinavian
kingdoms. The reverence paid to St. Olaf gradually rendered Thrond-
hjem one of the largest and wealthiest towns in Norway, and gave rise
to the erection of no fewer than fourteen churches and five monasteries.
At a later period terrible havoc was caused by civil wars, pestilence, sieges,
and conflagrations (fifteen in all during the last few centuries) ; and the
pilgrimages, to which the place owed so much of its prosperity, were at
length put an end to by the Reformation. The precious reliquary of the
saint was removed by sacrilegious hands from the altar in the octagon of
the choir, while his remains were buried in some unknown spot, and
most of the churches and monasteries were swept away. In 1796 the
population numbered 750O souls only, in 1815 not above 10.000, and in
1835 about 12,900.

Since the Peace of 1814 Throndhjem has rapidly grown in size
and wealth , and it bids fair to become a city of still greater im-
portance through the new railway to Ostersund and Sundsvall in
Sweden (see p. 222 and K. 50), as its fjord forms the natural har-
bour for a great part of the Swedish 'Norrland'. In anticipation
of a large increase of traffic a new Harbour has been constructed.

Cathedral. THRONDHJEM. 27. Route. 219

The *Cathedral, situated on the S. side of the town , near the
Nid-Elv and the present railway-station, has for several years been
undergoing a thorough and judicious restoration under the superin-
tendence of the architect Hr. Christie, and the chapter-house (Eng-
lish service in summer) and the octagonal choir are now completed.
The work will probably extend over several decades , but will
doubtless progress steadily, as annual subsidies are granted both
by government and by the town itself, and regular subscriptions
are received from private persons who are justly proud of this
noble national monument. The connection and history of the
different parts of the building are not easily understood without
the aid of a guide, especially if the traveller visits it only once.
Those who possess a moderate acquaintance with Danish will find
Nicolayseris 'Om Throndhjems Domkirke' (60»., sold in the cathe-
dral) a useful little guide, or they may consult P. A. Hunch's larger
work on the same subject, or the German work of Minutoli. —
The first point to be borne in mind is that the building of the
church extended over a century and a half, that it underwent
repeated alteration, and that it suffered repeatedly from fires
(1328, 1432, 1531, 1708, 1719). The architects were, moreover,
bound to the site of St. Olaf's original burial-place, for it was
there that they had to erect the altar destined for the reliquary
containing the holy man's remains. The church originally built
by Olaf Kyrre was a simple basilica, about 150 ft. in length
and 40 ft. in width. Throndhjem having been erected into
an archbishopric in 1151, the crowds of pilgrims continued to
increase, and the church was found inadequate for their require-
ments. Ey stein (or 0ystein, 1161-88), the third of the arch-
bishops, accordingly erected the spacious Transept , with a tower
over it, and also the *Chapter House (in which he lies buried) on
the N. side of the choir , both in the Romanesque style. Of the
appearance of the choir at that period nothing is known, but
withiii a few decades after Eystein's death it was rebuilt , partly
by English architects in an ornate Gothic style resembling that of
several of the English cathedrals , and was completed about the
year 1240. To that period belongs the exquisite **Octagon or
apse (which recalls 'Becket's Crown' at Canterbury) , forming an
independent part of the edifice, and not being merely a projecting
termination to the choir. It was on an altar in the centre of this
sanctuary that the revered relics of St. Olaf were placed, and this
was the great goal once so devoutly sought by thousands of pil-
grims. The reliquary, executed in silver, and weighing no less
than 200 lbs., stood here within a simple wooden chest, which in
its turn was encased in a finely carved shrine, enriched with pre-
cious stones. The reliquary and shrine were carried off to Copen-
hagen at the time of the Reformation , and the worthless chest
alone left behind.

220 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. Cathedral.

During the third building period , extending from about 1248
to 1300, the imposing Navb, to the W. of the transept, was erected,
also in the Gothic style. This part of the church is now in ruins,
while the transept and the choir are both roofed in. — The cathe-
dral is built mainly of a bluish chlorite slate, procured from old
quarries about IV2 Engl. M. to the E. of Baklandet, while the
marble was brought from the quarries of Almenningen (p. 232).

The Interior (open nominally from 12 to 1 only, but practically the
whole day; service at 9.30 a.m.; a contribution towards the restoration-
fund expected) is 335 ft. long and 128 ft. wide at the W. end. The huge
and shapeless walls which were erected, partly for the purpose of prop-
ping up the ruins, and partly in order to obtain an available space for public
worship, have as far as possible been removed. The white marble columns
contrast admirably with the bluish slate of the walls. On the E. side of
the S. transept is the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, in the round-arch style,
dating fromEystein's period and containing the monument of Thomas Angell
(d. 1767), a wealthy benefactor of Throndhjem. On the E. side of the
N. transept, immediately to the left of the presentN. entrance to the church,
is a corresponding chapel of the same period. Above the chapel of St.
John, is another (reached by a staircase), dedicated to St. Olaf, and now
containing a number of interesting fragments of ancient tombstones found
in and around the church , all in soapstone (Klwbersten). In the 18th
cent, the Lagthing, or national assembly, used to meet in the S. transept.
— The highly ornate chapels of the choir are also worthy of careful in-
spection. The rich mouldings of the triforium windows are all different,
and most elaborately executed ; but some of them were left unfinished by
their 13th century sculptors and still remain in that condition. On the S.
side of the octagon is —

St. Olafs Well, which most probably gave rise to the selection of this
site for the church, having, according to tradition, burst forth at the spot
where the king was originally buried. — Good photographs of the cathe-
dral are sold in the S. chapel, the proceeds being paid to the building fund.

In the 11th and 12th centuries the cathedral was the burial-place of
the kings of Norway, and several were crowned here at a later period.
By the present constitution of Norway (that of 1814) all the sovereigns of
the country are required to repair to Throndhjem to be crowned in the
cathedral; and the ceremonv was accordingly performed in the case of
C/iarles XIV. John (Bernadotte) in 1818, Oscar I. in 1844, Charles XV. in
1860. and Oscar II. in 1873.

To the S. of the cathedral is the pleasing Churchyard, many of
the graves in which, in accordance with the Norwegian custom,
are adorned with fresh flowers every Saturday. Adjacent is the
Arsenal, which occupies the site of the old Kongs Gerard (PI. 1) and
of the residence of the archbishops, and contains an interesting
collection of old Norwegian weapons (adm. on application to the
sentinel).

The other churches in Throndhjem are St. Marys (Vor Frue
Kirke) in the Kongens-Gade, a small promenade adjoining which
(called lParken'~) is embellished with a statue (by Bergslien, 1876)
of Tordenskjold (d. 1720), the famous admiral, who was born
at Throndhjem ; the Hospital Church (PI. 5), at the W. end of the
Kongens-Gade, and the Bakke Kirke (PL 3) in Baklandet (whence
there is a Flet or ferry to Brateren). At Ihlen there is a new
Roman Catholic Church (PL 4).

Among the public buildings may be mentioned the large tini-

.Pnvirow. $HRONDHJEM. -27. Route. 221

ber-built Stiftsgaard (PI. 11) in the Munke-Gade, the residence of
the 'Stiftsamtmand', and occupied by the kings of Norway on their
coronation. Adjacent isthe Harmonie Club (p. 217). In the Vestre-
Gade is the Academ^LQf Science ( Videnskabernes Selskab), founded
in 1760, of which Scheming, Suhm, Guhnerusj" and "other dis-
tinguished scholars were once members. It contains a valuable
library (50,000 vols.) and antiquarian collections. — In the Kon-
gens-Gade, on the S. side, are the Sparbank, or Savings Bank, and
the handsome building of the Arbeider-Forening (PI. 9), contain-
ing a concert-room and cafe'.

Environs. To the E. of the town lises the fortress of Christ-
iansten (235 ft. ; reached in 20 min. by crossing the Nid by the bridge
and ascending the hill beyond), erected in the 17th cent., but now
disused. It commands an excellent survey of the town and fjord,
and a still finer view is obtained from the *Blcesevoldbakken (355 ft.)
behind it. — Turning to the left beyond the Nid bridge, we may walk
or drive through the suburt of Baklandet , crossing the Meraker
railway (p. 222), to (1^2 Engl. M.) Hladehammeren {Hammer, 'pro-
montory'), another good point of view.

Another fine view , differing from these , is obtained from a
rocky height to the S. of Ihlen, where the remains of the castle of
Sverresborg , built in the 12th cent., were discovered in 1873.
This point is reached from Ihlen by following the road along the
Nid and then ascending to the right, or by the broad road ascend-
ing direct from Ihlen, passing the gaard of *Marienborg on the
left, which also commands a fine view of the fjord and the town
with its picturesque red roofs. The Blyberg, opposite the Sverres-
borg, commands a still more extensive view.

A pleasant walk may be taken to the W. by ascending from
Ihlen to the left past the gaard Fagerli to the Ojetfjeld (1310 ft.),
and proceeding high above the fjord and past several substantial
gaards, to (l-li^hr.) the Munkaune (private property; no admis-
sion), and (20 min. farther) the iron-works of Trollabrug. Return
by the shore past the promontory of Hovringen, which commands
an admirable view of the mountains to the E., Fagervik and Ilsvi-
ken. — A still finer excursion is the ascent of the *Oraakallen
(1840 ft.)" which may -b'eTiccomplished (there and back) in 5 hrs.
(guide unnecessary). The route also passes the gaard Fagerli, and
then leads across some lower hills to the foot of the mountain,
fwhich we ascend from the N. side. The top is marked by a con-
spicuous 'Varde'. The view embraces the fjord and its surround-
ings. We should also ascend the rocky height to the S. and return
to the E. via the Kobberdamm.

In the fjord, to the N. of the town, and about 1 Engl. M. dis-
tant, lies the picturesque Munkholm (reached by boat in 20 min. ;
fare i1/-)-^ kr. , but a bargain should be made ; no permission ne-
cessary ; visitors are attended by one of the soldiers). As its name

222 Route 27. THRONDHJEM. Environs.

imports , the island was once the site of a monastery , founded in
1028, of which the lower part of a round tower is now the only
relic. Count Peter Griffenfeld (P. Schumacher), the minister of
Christian V., was confined in a cell here from 1680 to 1698, and
shortly after his release died at Throndhjem. The island is de-
scribed by Victor Hugo in his 'Han d'Islande'. The walls of the
small fortress which now stands here command a beautiful view,
and contain some interesting old guns and gun-carriages. On the
8.W. side is a small lighthouse.

The Excursion to the two falls of the Nid near the gaard of Leren,
5 Kil. south of Throndhjem, is picturesque, but may be omitted if the
traveller's time is limited. We follow the road leading from the suburb
of Baklandet (p. 221), afterwards turning to the left. A good walker
requires 4 hrs. there and back. In wet weather the last part of the road
is unpleasant. (Carriage with one horse, there and back 8, with 2 horses,
12 kr.) The lower or Lille Lerfos is 80 ft. high. The upper or Store
Lerfos, though higher, is broken by a mass of rock about halfway
across. The best survey of it is obtained from one of the windows in
the saw-mill overhanging the seething waters on the right bank (a some-
what rough path descends to the foot of the fall). The path from the
lower to the upper fall is not easy to find. If only one is visited, the
upper fall should be chosen.

An Excursion to the S^lbo-Sj0 takes two days. On the lirst day
we go by railway to Heimdal (p. 216), and walk thence to Teigen or drive
(skyds - station at Esp, 2 Kil. distant) to Bretttm (17 Kil., pay for 21),
both situated at the W. end of the Saelbo-Sj0 or Selbu-Sje (525 ft.),
a fine sheet of water, 29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.) in length, on which a small
steamboat plies five times weekly in summer. At the S.E. end of
the lake, near the church ot Swlbo, lie Marieborg and the Scelbo Sana-
torium (well spoken of, 'pens', from 50 kr. a month). — From Sselbo a
road ascends the pretty and well-tilled Tydal. In the winter of 1718 the
greater part of the Swedish army under General Armfelt was frozen to
death on the TydaUfjelde when on their retreat from Throndhjem.

From Throndhjem to Storlien (Ostersund, Stockholm), 106 Kil.
(66 Engl. M.), railway (Merakerbane) in 43/4hrs. (fares 5 kr. 84, 3 kr.
46 ».). The station lies to the N. of the town, by the harbour,
which the line crosses. — The train passes the church of Lade on
the left, and beyond (3 Kil.) Leangen the lunatic asylum of Rot-
void, also on the left. Soon after it reaches the fjord, here called
the Strindenfjord, farther on the Stjerdalsfjord. 7 Kil. Ranheim ;
15 Kil. Malvik; 23 Kil. Hommelviken (Inn, small), the centre of a
considerable trade in timber. A road, with skyds-stations, leads
hence via (12 Kil.) Viken to (12 Kil.) Heiby, on the Sslbo-Sja.
The train now passes through a short tunnel, and reaches —

32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Hell (telegraph-station), at the mouth
of the Stjerdals-Elv, across which a bridge leads to the skyds-
station of Sandferhus on the opposite bank. The line now runs
inland, along the left bank of the Stjerdals-Elv. 42 Kil. Hegre,
near the confluence of the Forra, which descends from the N. , with
the Sterdals-Elv. 57 Kil. Floren ; 72 Kil. Gudaa (275 ft.), where
the Reinaa is crossed. The train passes through a tunnel and as-
cends rapidly, crossing the Stjerdals-Elv, to —

LEVANGER. 28. Route. 223

81 Kil. (50 M.) Meraker (720 ft. ; telegraph-station), a thriv-
ing and prettily situated little town, the last station in Norway.
Fine view from the station. Beyond Meraker, near which there is
an old copper-mine , the line continues to ascend rapidly. The
district is sparsely peopled , and the vegetation also becomes
scantier. The Areskuta and other snow-mountains of Sweden
appear in the distance. The train at last crosses the Swedish
frontier, 1825 ft. above the sea-level, and reaches —

106 Kil. (66 M.^Storlien (Rail. Restaurant, see p. 372; telegraph-
station), the junction for the railway to Stockholm (R. 50).

28. Inland Route from Throndhjem to Nainsos.

About 200 Kil. or 125 Engl. M. A steamer sails daily from Throndhjem
to Levanger in 4 hrs, going on several times weekly to (5 hrs.) Slenkjwr,
Another steamer proceeds twice weekly direct from Throndhjem to Sten-
kjaer. The road between Levanger andStenkjaer is, however, so picturesque,
that driving is preferable to the steamboat journey. — From Stenkjwr
drive (fast stations) to the fjord opposite Namsos; thence cross by boat.

On the Steamboat Journey from Throndhjem to Stenkjwr the
traveller has the advantage of seeing something of the picturesque
rocky W. bank of the Throndhjem Fjord, which is scarcely visible
from the land-route. The steamer steers between the Tuttere,
with the ruins of the monastery of Tautra , and the mainland
(Frosten) on the E. to Holmberget , and across the fjord to the
N.W. to Lexviken. It then recrosses to Ekne on the E. bank,
whence it steers to the large island of Ytterei (with the parish of
Eid"). At the station Hokstad on this island are extensive mines of
pyrites. Holsanden is also sometimes touched at. The vessel then
steers to —

Levanger {Madam Backlund's Hotel; telegraph- station), a
charmingly situated little town with about 900 inhab., which was
almost entirely burned down in December, 1877, but has since
been rebuilt.

From Levanger a road, with fast stations, leads to the E. into Swe-
den. — 14 Kil. (pay for 15) Nces; 11 Kil. Garnas; 19 Kil. Sulstuen (good
station); 22 Kil. (pay for 33) Skalstugan (good quarters), the first Swedish
station. From this point we may walk (with guide) to the Skalsjo (1930ft.),
cross this lake by small boat, and ascend the Fjeld (no proper path) to
the Encampment of Lapps, to be found here in summer. The Lapps,
hitherto untainted by intercourse with strangers, change their camping-
ground from time to time, but are generally to be found within 3-4 hrs.
from Skalstugan. Gloves and veils are necessary for protection against the
mosquitoes.

The road from Levanger to Stenkjwr, 41 Kil., has only two skyds-
stations (both fast): viz., (12 Kil.) Vcerdalseren, at the mouth of the Veer-
dals-Elv, and (14 Kil.) Beske (poor quarters). — The church of Vccrdalen,
6 Kil. from Vserdalsjarren marks the scene of the battle of Stiklestad, at
which St. Olaf was killed 29th July, 1030 (p. xlvi).

The next steamboat-stations are Skaanas, Tronas, Hyllen, and
Sundnces, on the peninsula of Indere, on the E. side of which
is the strait of Stremmen, leading into the picturesque Borgen-
fjord, on which rises the church of Mare. The steamer, however,

224 Route 28. NAMSOS.

does not enter this bay of the Throndhjem Fjord, but steers to the
W. through the narrow Skarnsund on the W. side of the lndere,
touches at Venncts, and enters the broad Beitstadfjord, the inner-
most recess of the Throndhjems Fjord. It then either proceeds
direct to Stenkjaer, via. Krogsvaagen, steers into a narrow ramifica-
tion of the Beitstadfjord to the N. to Malmo and Fosnas, and
thence to Stenkjser. From the skyds-station of 0stvik, near Fosnses,
the traveller may drive to Elden and Namsos (see below).

Stenkjaer (Hotel Hadka or Haakenstuen ; Thorbjernseris Hotel ;
telegraph - station) is a small town with 1800 inhab., on the
By-Elv.

Travellers who intend to visit the beautiful Snaasenvand (80 ft.) and
the Fiskumfos should telegraph for skyds before the arrival of the steamer
at Stenkjaer, so that they may proceed the same evening to (11 Kil.) Sunde,
at the S. end of the Snaasenvand. A steamer plies thence four times weekly
to (S1J2 hrs.) Sem, at the E. extremity of the lake ; and from Sem we take
skyds to (31 Kil.) Homo (360 ft.) and (1G Kil.) Fosland, on the road to
Fiskum (p. 225). — Failing the steamer at Sunde, travellers must drive
from Stenkjser. The stations by road, all fast, are : 15 Kil. Langhammer,
S Kil. Kvam, 15 Kil. 0slre Hegge, 15 Kil. Nedre Vekset, 28 Kil. (pay for 33)
Homo, 11 Kil. Vie (p. 225), 16 Kil. Fosland, 17 Kil. Fiskum. Tolerable quar-
ters are to be had only at Kvam, Nedre Vekset, Homo, and Vie; but unless
the traveller is prepared to put up with very humble fare, he should tele-
graph beforehand, especially to Vie. The whole road lies through a series
of magnificent landscapes, with wood and lake, and streams dashing over
rocks. Between Vekset and Homo, near the point where we cross the
watershed (805 ft.), there is a noteworthy waterfall. In the last stage,
we cross the Namsen-Elv by a ferry.

The road to Namsos passes the following stations: —

lo Kil. (pay for 17) 0stvik (good quarters), on the northern-
most hay of the Beitstadfjord. The road now quits the fjord of
Throndhjem, and crosses an Eid or isthmus, about 300 ft. high, to
the Namsenfjord. 15 Kil. Elden (290 ft.).

18 Kil. Redhammer , on the Lyngenfjord, the S. arm of the
Namsenfjord. We then proceed over the pass of Anskaret to (16 Kil.)
Bangsund (12-13 Kil. from Namsos by water) and (11 Kil.)Spillum.
From Spillum the road leads to the Stremshylla Ferry (3 Kil.),
whence we cross the fjord (4 Kil.) by boat or drive (8 Kil.) to —

Namsos (A. Jensen's Hotel; English Vice -Consul, Mr. Som-
merschield; telegraph-station), a town with 1900 inhab., charmingly
situated on the N. bank of the estuary of the Namsen-Elv. It was
almost entirely burned down in 1872, but has since been rebuilt.
A wood on the hills to the W. of the town was also destroyed by
the same fire. The new Church stands on a rocky height in the
middle of the town. The staple commodity of the place is timber.
— The richly wooded Namsdal, containing 8000 inhab. , is very
picturesque, the scenery improving as we ascend. — Two or three
of the large coasting steamers touch at Namsos weekly , both on
the outward and homeward voyage (oomp. p. 230).

Excursion to the Fiskumfos. This most interesting excursion is
made either from Spillum, or from Namsos, the roads uniting near Hun.

NOEDLAND. 29. Route. 225

IheJfamsen-Elv, through the valley of which the road ascends, is considered
one of the best salmon-rivers in Europe, and is accordingly far famed
among anglers. The fishings are always let to English sportsmen, and
are jealously preserved. The stations from Namsos are: 15 Kil. Hun
(good quarters), 11 Kil. Jfaugum, 17 Kil. Vie (125 ft.; Inn, very poor
accommodation), a great fishing station, 11 Kil. Fosland (200 ft.), 17 Kil.
Fiskum. The last stage is through a magnificent ravine. The 'Tiskumfos
(220 ft.), a most imposing fall, sometimes compared to the falls of the
Rhine at Schaffhausen, with a copious volume of water, is 100 ft. in height.
To reach the best point of view, a projecting rock on the left bank (in-
accessible when the river is in flood), a guide is necessary. This is the
upper limit of the salmon-fishings.

29. The Nordland.

Communication with the Nordland is maintained hy the steamers
of the united companies Bergenske Dampskibs Selskab and Norden-
fjeldske Dampskibs Selskab, of which the former has its headquarters
in Bergen, the latter in Throndhjem. The agent of the combined
companies at Christiania is Mr. Berg-Hansen, at Throndhjem Mr.
J. Eriksen. Detailed time-tables may be obtained on personal or
written application either to the agents or to the head-offices ('di-
rection') at Bergen and Throndhjem ; and the Norges Communica-
tioner mentioned at p. xix also give all the necessary information.
The Mail Steamers ply throughout the year, leaving Throndhjem
once weekly for Vads» (midnight on Tues.) and twice weekly (noon
on Thurs. & Sat.) for Hammerfest and the North Cape. The Tour-
ist Steamees are put on in the height of summer, from about
June 20th to July 20th, and run twice weekly (leaving Bergen
about 9 p.m. on Mon. & Frid. and Throndhjem at 10 p.m. on Mon. &
Wed.) to the North Cape. During the season there are thus five
opportunities weekly of starting from Throndhjem for the North
Cape. Smaller steamers also ply from Bergen to the Lofoden Is-
lands, but are not used by the ordinary tourist.

The Mail Steamers (see Communicationer, Nos. 200-202) call
at numerous intermediate stations and take 2-3 days for the voyage
from Throndhjem to Bode, 2 days more to Tromse, and another
day (5-6 days from Throndhjem) to reach Hammerfest. For a visit
to the North Cape, which lies fully half-a-day beyond Hammerfest,
the mail-steamers will be found quite as convenient as the tourist
boats, except that they allow no time for an excursion to the 'bird-
mountain' of Sveerholt (p. 264). The mail-steamers take 12 days
to make the journey from Throndhjem to the North Cape and back.
The ordinary route of the Vadse steamer leads through the Magera
sound to Vadse (2y2 days from Hammerfest to Vads0), but if the
passengers desire it and the weather is favourable, the captain of
the Vadser boat will change this for the course round the North
Cape, though without stopping to allow of landing. The steamer
leaves Vads» again the day after its arrival, and the whole voyage
from Throndhjem and back thus takes about 17 days.

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 15

226 Route 29. NORDLAND.

The Fakes on the mail-steamers are reckoned by mileage, the first
cabin, which can alone be recommended, costing 40 0. per Norwegian sea-
mile. The fare from Throndhjem to Bode (76 sea-miles) thus amounts to
30 kr. 40 0., to Tromse (125 M.) 50 kr., to Bammerfett (155 M.) 62 kr., to the
North Cape (171 M. ; fare calculated to Vardtf) 80 kr., to Vadse (210 M.)
84 kr. Family tickets are granted at considerable reductions (see p. xix)
and return-tickets (' Tur og Betur') available for six months are issued at
a fare and a half for distances of 20 sea-miles and upwards. The latter,
however, should be taken for sections only (Throndhjem-Bod0, Bod0-
Troms0, Troms0-Hammerfest, etc.), as they do not allow the journey to
be broken, the liberty to do which is one of the great advantages of tra-
velling by the mail-steamers (comp. p. 229).

On voyages of three days and upwards the steamboat-companies pro-
vide a liberal board at the rate of 5 kr. per day, including a cup of coffee
with biscuits ('karvinger') on getting up , dejeuner with tea or half a
bottle of beer, dinner including a cup of coffee, and supper with tea or
half a bottle of beer. A pint of claret costs 1 kr. 25, half a bottle of beer
25, selters water 25 0. On shorter journeys the prices for single meals
are as follows: coffee and biscuit 35 0., dejeuner or supper lV2kr., dinner
2 kr. 40 0. For attendance 50 0. per day is charged. Before ordering
anything of the waiter it is advisable to consult the price-list hung up
in the cabins. — Each steamer contains a small Post Office, which also
undertakes the transmission of telegrams. The captain, pilots, and post
office officials generally understand English.

The course of the Tourist Steamers (comp. Communicationer,
No. 204, and the bills issued by the agents mentioned at p. 225) is
as follows. On Mon. and Wed. evening they leave Throndhjem, reach-
ing Torghatten (p. 231) at 2p.m. on the following day. Here time is
allowed for a visit to the rocky tunnel. The steamers then pass through
the Brone-sund or the Toftsund and at 8 a.m. on Wed. and Frid. reach
Bode (p. 239). At 2 p.m. on the same days they pass Hennings-
vcer and on Thurs. and Sat. forenoon arrive at Tromse (p. 253),
where a landing is made for a visit to the camp of the Lapps. At
Hammerfest, which is reached on Frid. or Sun. at 8 a. m., a stay
of 3 hrs. is made. We then traverse the Magerflsund, crossing the
entrance of the Porsanger Fjord, to the 'bird-mountain' of Svaer-
holt (p. 264), from which we return to the North Cape (p. 262),
reaching it in the evening. We ascend to the top of the cape by the
light of the Midnight Sun, and next morning (Sat. or Mon.) begin
the homeward journey, the first stage of which is Lyngenfjord
(p. 256; Sat. or Mon. evening). Tromse is reached on Sun. or Tues.
morning, Svartisen (p. 238) on Mon. or Wed. afternoon, and
Throndhjem on Tues. or Thurs. afternoon. The whole excursion
from Throndhjem to the North Cape and back thus takes only
8V2 days by the tourist steamers.

The Fake on the tourist steamers for the whole excursion amounts
to 250-300 kr. for a berth in a state-room containing one or two berths,
250 kr. for a share of a state-room containing three or more berths, and
220-225 kr. for a berth in the saloon or in the fore-cabin. This fare includes
meals as on the mail-steamers, with the addition of half a bottle of
wine at dinner. No extra charge is made for attendance. On the tourist
steamers no reduction in the fares is made for families.

The tourist steamers are very comfortably fitted up but are as
a rule somewhat crowded. They afford the easiest and speediest
means of visiting the principal points of the Nordland, and are

NORDLAND. 29. Route. 227

therefore used by most visitors to the N. Cape. The methodical
and ultra-punctual way in which the programme is gone through
deprives the voyage of much of the charm of novelty, while the
life on board is exactly similar to that in a large hotel on shore.
The finest points may be passed in fog or rain. Those, therefore,
who are not pressed for time and who wish to study the life and
customs of the inhabitants as well as the beauties of nature, should
travel by the mail-steamers, which are also well equipped and
scarcely inferior to the tourist steamers in the matter of food.

A sufficiency of repose is an urgent necessity on an excursion
to the Nordland. As there is scarcely an uninteresting point on
the whole voyage and as in the height of summer daylight never
entirely disappears, the traveller feels naturally averse to wasting
any of his time in the unconsciousness of sleep. This feeling,
however, should not be yielded to, and all who wish to avoid
overstrain and nervous exhaustion should sleep for at least 4-6 hrs.
after midnight and other 2 hrs. after dinner. The sleeping-places
in the saloon must be quitted by 6 a. m. and those who desire to
sleep in comfort should endeavour betimes to secure a berth in
one of the state-rooms. The best and only sure plan is to apply
beforehand to the steamboat office at Bergen or at Throndhjem
(according to the company to which the steamer belongs ; comp.
p. 225 and the Norges Communicationer) or to the agent Berg-
Hansen at Christiania. On receiving an affirmative reply it is
necessary to forward the amount of the fare at once, as otherwise
the berth will not be reserved. If the traveller has not ordered a
cabin in advance he should lose no time on going on board in
selecting the best of the still vacant berths, though he will seldom
find any free except those in the saloon. In the mail-steamers,
however, there is always the chance of securing a berth vacated by
a passenger leaving the ship at one of the intermediate stations.

The vessel's course lies almost always within the island-belt
(Hndensk jeers'), and sea-sickness is of rare occurrence. From the
Skjargaard, however, a view of the open sea is frequently obtained
beyond the lower Skjcer, or Vmr, as they are sometimes called.

A coasting voyage of moderate length has many attractions.
The captain and crew are usually very obliging and communica-
tive, especially if the traveller shows an interest in their country.
The Pilots (Lodsen) are especially well informed and intelligent.
Two of them navigate the vessel from Ohristianssand to Thrond-
hjem, two from Throndhjem to Hammerfest, and two others thence
to Vads», one of them always being on duty , except when the
steamer is stationary. They are appointed by government , and
each receives 140 kr. per month, besides his board. The number
of pilots proper is , however , inadequate for the great traffic , and
their place is often filled by other qualified persons (Kjendtmand).

Among the deck-passengers there are sometimes Lapps (here

15*

228 Route 29. NORDLAND.

called Firmer), Finns (Kvcener; comp. p. 255), and convicts, these
last being occasionally met with on their way to the Slaveri, or
house of correction, at Throndhjem. If questioned as to the object
of their journey, they speak of it euphemistically as a 'voyage to
the south' or 'in the king's service'. Itinerant musicians (who in
accordance with the traditions of the country travel free) are often
a source of annoyance, and when the traveller hopes to get rid of
them by going ashore, they are pretty sure to re-appear at the
nearest inn or Gjcestgiveri. The sailors are generally a sober and
hard-working class, and the traveller will frequently have occasion
to admire the patience and perseverance they exhibit in loading
or discharging cargo.

The inhabitants of the small stations, who on the steamer's
arrival crowd round her in their Ranebaade (p. 237), are another
object of interest. The charge forgoing ashore is usually 20 e. ,
but the Taxi should always be asked for, lest the traveller
should unwittingly hurt the feelings of some landed proprietor or
local dignitary (albeit wielding the oars with upturned shirt
sleeves) by offering to pay. However far north the traveller ex-
tends his voyage, he will be struck with the civility, honesty, and
intelligence of the natives , especially those who are not in im-
mediate contact with the influences of modern 'civilisation'. In
Tromse the telegraph official on one occasion insisted on accom-
panying the writer for a quarter of an hour in the midst of a
deluge of rain to show him the way to the post-office, and at
Vads» a merchant of the place showed him a collection of valu-
able photographs from Vienna and a work on the philosophy of
Bacon of which the owner was an admirer. Another native of
the far north mentioned that he had just returned from Rome
where he had spent the winter, while an intelligent native of
Kjelvik, close to the North Cape, had travelled over a considerable
part of Great Britain, but expressed a decided preference for the
freedom of his Arctic home, the greater purity of its air and water,
and even for its climate ! Clergymen, teachers, and government-
offlcials also travel frequently in these vessels, and will give much
interesting information regarding the Lapps, Finns, and other in-
habitants of the country.

The natural phenomena of this hyperborean region will not fail
to excite a keen interest even in the most experienced traveller.
The weather, the winds, and the fogs, the play of light and shade,
the purity of the atmosphere, are all quite unlike the corresponding
phenomena in other parts of Europe. The Alpine tourist will be sur-
prised to find how little his former practice aids him in estimating
distances here. The animal world is of extraordinary richness. The'
sea teems with cod, herrings, skate, and other fish. Whales are
frequently seen spouting columns of water into the air, or rising to
the surface in unwieldy gambols. Swarms of eider-ducks swim

NORDLAND. 29. Route. 229

near every island, and the air is full of sea-gulls. Not unfrequently
the traveller may see the industrious sea-gull (Krykke) robbed of
its prey by the skua (Lestris parasitica), which, unable to fish for
itself, compels the gull to drop its booty and catches it with
unerring dexterity before it reaches the water. A peculiar ruffling
of the water is sometimes caused by the shoals of herrings (Sild-
stime), often pursued by the voracious Sei ('saith', or hake, one of
the Qadidce), or by a seal (Scdhund), to escape from which they
dart into the nets and even spring ashore.

The scenery with which the writer was most struck extends
from the Arctic Circle (the Hestmande) to the Lofoden Islands
and the S. extremity of Hinde (Ledingen) , where the grandest
mountains and glaciers are seen in close proximity to the sea.
A girdle consisting of numerous islands, some of which rise to a
height of several thousand feet, here stretches far out to sea, while
the fjords extend as far in the opposite direction, reaching to the
bases of the lofty inland mountains.

A trip to Bode and as far as Ledingen in the Lofoden Islands
will thus comprise some of the most characteristic features of these
northern regions ; but, if possible, the voyage should be extended
to Tromse and Hammerfest for the sake of seeing the Lyngenfjord
and the island scenery of the Arctic Ocean, the finest of the kind
in Europe. But the North Cape itself forms the most natural limit
to the journey. Europe there terminates, and the Arctic regions
begin ; and there, too, the sublime scenery of the Norwegian coast
may be said to culminate, as that of the N. and N.E. coasts begins
to show a falling off in point of grandeur and interest.

A protracted voyage among the fjords is often productive of
a kind of physical and mental lethargy, which sadly mars the
traveller's enjoyment and is not easily shaken off, while the con-
finement, the not unfrequent overcrowding and want of ventilation,
and the daily round of meals at the table d'hote are very apt to
become irksome. Even beyond Throndhjem every possible oppor-
tunity should be taken of breaking the voyage by excursions on
land ; and a voyage to any distant station and back by the same
steamer should by all means be avoided. Travellers by the tourist-
steamers have time to pay short visits to the Torghatten and the
camp of the Lapps at Troms», and to ascend the North Cape. But
a longer interruption of the journey is possible to passengers by
the mail-steamers, who may land at the best points for making
excursions, as for example Bod», Svolvser, and Troms», and either
spend a few days at each and go on by the next steamer, or
continue their journey by inland routes and local steamers.

Breaks in the Voyage. Among the more interesting of such
breaks may be mentioned: —

1. Journey by Land from Throndhjem, or from Vcerdalseren, to
Namsos ; visit to the Fiskumfos (p. 225).

230 Route 29.

NORDLANP.

*2. Visit to the Torghatten from Somnas or Brenemnd ; this ex-
cursion, taking a whole day, involves -waiting for the next mail-
steamer and can therefore be more conveniently made from the
tourist-steamers (p. 234).

3. Visit from Vigholmen to the Ranenfjord, and perhaps also
to the Dunderlandsdal, and thence to the N. to the Saltenfjord or
Beierenfjord (pp. 236, 237).

4. Excursion to the Hestmande from Indre Kvare, or from
Selsevig (p. 238).

5. From Qrene to the glacier of Svartisen (see p. 238).

6. From Bode to the Saltstrem, and from Fuske to the Sulit-
elma (pp. 241, 242).

*7. From Svolvar to the Lofoden Islands, a magnificent trip of
2-3 days (p. 247).

8. From Ledingen to the Ofotenfjord (p. 250).

9. From Seveien, in the interior of the Salangenfjord, by a good
road through the Barduelvsdal and Maalselvsdal to the Rostavand,
and to Maalsnas on the Malang en fjord ; thence by a rough road to
the Balsfjord and the Lyngenfjord (pp. 251-256).

*10. From Tromse to the Tromsdal with its Lapp encampment
and herds of reindeer, and, if possible, thence to the Lyngenfjord
(pp. 254-256).

*11. Visit to Tyven from Hammerfest (p. 260).

*12. The ascent of the North Cape (p. 262).

Midnight Sun. The best season for a cruise to the North Cape
is between 20th June and 15th August, whether the main object
of the traveller be to witness the subdued glory of the midnight
sun, or to see the scenery to the best advantage. Down to the
middle of June the mountains are almost all covered with snow,
and the vegetation in the valleys is imperfectly developed, and
after the middle of August the nights become longer and colder ;
but the intervening period forms one unbroken day, during which
the weather is often warm and genial. The midnight sun, which
is visible within the Arctic Circle (66° 30') only, is partially or
wholly seen from the sea-level within the following dates (those
for the North Cape, however, being reckoned for a point 1000 ft.
above the sea) : —

Places

For the first time.

For the last time.

Upper
Margin

Centre

Whole
Disc

Centre

Upper
Margin

Bode

Tromse
Vadsei
Hammerfest
North Cape

30th May
18th -
15th
13th
lith

1st June
19th May
16th
14th
12th -

3rd June
20th Jlav
17th
16th
13th

8th July
22th
26th
27th
30th -

10th July
24th
27th
28th -
31st

12th July
25th -
28th -
29th
1st Aug.

4 *W &L> ^a* I

: \

NORDLAND. ?,9. Route. 231

It need hardly be observed that travellers desirous of seeing
the midnight sun should not postpone their journey till the latest
possible date, as clouds and mist, as well as intervening mountains
and islands, too often conceal the horizon and cause disappoint-
ment. A height of several hundred feet of course commands a
better view than the deck of the steamer, and enables the spec-
tator to see the midnight sun about one day earlier and later in
the season than is otherwise possible. The sublimity of the spec-
tacle, when witnessed in all its majesty, produces an impression
never to be forgotten, and has been finely described by Carlyle,
Bayard Taylor, and many other writers, while Tegner's lines on
the subject are remarkable for their extreme simplicity : —

'Midnattssolen pa bergen satt,

Blodrod till att skada ;

Det var ej dag, det var ej natt,

Det vagde emellan bada.

(Literally: — 'The midnight sun sat on the mountains, blood-red
to behold; 'twas neither day nor night, but a balance between them.')

Travellers will do well to supplement the small-scale maps
accompanying the present volume by procuring Cammermeyer's
Reisekart over det nordlige Norge (scale 1 : 800,000; price 4 kr.);
see p. xxviii.

Among the books dealing with the Nordland the following may
be mentioned :

Paul B. Du Ghaillu's 'Land of the Midnight Sun' (London, 1881).

Bayard Taylor's 'Northern Travel' (1858).

F. Vincent's 'Norsk, Lapp, and Finn' (Boston, 1885).
0Z. v. Buck's 'Reise durch Norwegen und Lappland' (Berlin, 1810).

Petrus Lastadius's 'Journal' (2 vols, Stockholm, 1831-1833).

Pancritius's 'Hagringar' (Konigsberg, 1852).

Oscar Schmidt's 'Bilder aus dem hohen Norden' (Jena, 1851).

Vibe's 'Kusten und Meer Norwegens' (Gotha, 1860).

O. v. Diibm's 'On Lappland oeh Lapparne' (Stockholm, 1873).

Friis's 'Konig Oskar II. 's Reise' (Christiania, 1874).

O. Hartung and A. Dulk's 'Fahrten durch Norwegen und die Lapp-
mark' (Stuttgart, 1876).

Schytte's 'Bod0s Beskrivelse'.

Sommerfelt's 'Saltdalensl Beskrivelse'.

C. A. Wulfsberg's 'Om Finmarken' (Christiania, 1867).

I. From Throndhjem to Bod*.

76 M. or 490 Kil. (304 Engl. M.). Steamboat in 2 days; comp. p. 225.
Intending passengers should bear in mind that when a vessel is advertised
to sail on a certain day, the very beginning of that day, or what is usu-
ally called the midnight of the preceding day, is frequently meant. There
are 27 stations at which the mail-steamers call, but all of these are not
touched at on the same voyage. — The distances given below are reckon-
ed from station to station.

As the voyage through the outer Throndhjem Fjord and along
the coast beyond is at first comparatively uninteresting, the travel-

232 Route 29. BEIAN. From Throndhjem

ler is recommended to secure some sleep at this stage. If the boat
starts at night he should seek his berth in good time the evening
before. The first stations on the N. bank of the fjord are Bed-
bjerget, with the ruined convent of Rein, and (50 Kil. or 31 Engl. M.)
Beian (telegraph-station; p. 174), where travellers from the S.
can join the steamer from Throndhjem, without proceeding to that
town. Beian is situated on the S. extremity of the peninsula of
0rland, to the N.E. of which stretches the Skjernfjord. Not far
from the steamboat-station is the gaard of 0sieraat, a place famed in
the annals of Norway and the scene of Ibsen's drama 'Fru Inger til
0straat'.

The vessel now steers to the N., skirting the extensive penin-
sula of Fosen, formed by the sea and the long fjord of Throndhjem.
To the W. are the islands of Stor-Fosen and the Tarv-0er, and
farther on is the Fro-Hav, a wide channel bounded on the W. by
the Fro-0er.

30 Kil. (18i/2 Engl. M.J Valdersund (telegraph-station). The
Nordlandsjagte , with their peculiar raised cabins (Veng), and
rigged with a single square-sail (Raaseil) and a topsail (Skvcersegl
or Topsegl), are frequently seen here on their way to the Tydske-
brygge or German Quay at Bergen (see p. 75), deeply laden with
wood and dried fish (Klipfisk and Rundfisk, comp. p. 245). Part of
their homeward cargo often consists of coffins, filled with bread
and Kringler (a kind of rusk). These vessels, both in build and
rig, are the lineal descendants of the piratical craft of the ancient
Vikings.

26 Kil. (16 Engl. M.) Stoksund. Of four caverns here the larg-
gest is Hardbakhulen, at the gaard of Hardbak. To the W. lie the
Linese and Stoke.

15 Kil. (91/2 Engl. M.) Sydkroge. To the N.W. lies the island
of Almenningen, with the quarries that furnished the marble for
Throndhjem cathedral (see p. 220). Fish spread out on the rocks to
dry (Klipfisk) begin to be seen here. In winter they are hung on
Hjelder, or wooden frames, for the same purpose. Eider-ducks
abound. Passing Besaker (telegraph-station) we next reach —

24 Kil. (15 Engl. M.) Ramse. The black and white rings on
the rocks ( Terneringe), resembling targets, indicate the position
of iron stanchions for mooring vessels (Marker). The mainten-
ance of these rings (Ringvasen), like that of the lighthouses and
pilots (Fyrvcesen, Lodsvcesen), is under the supervision of govern-
ment. The number of lights required in the 'Skjiergaard' is, of
course, very large. For the next two hours the vessel traverses the
open and sometimes rough Foldensjei, which is prolonged towards
the N.E. by the Foldenfjord (not to be confounded with the fjord
of that name to the N. of Bode, p. 244).

36 Kil. (22i/2 Engl. M.) Bjere. Here, and farther to the N.,
we often observe white marks on the rocks, and sometimes white

to Bode. HELGELAND. 29. Route. 233

planks in the water, the object of which is to attract the salmon,
which mistake them for their favourite waterfalls and are thus
decoyed into the nets (comp. p. 116).

Beyond Bjero the steamer's course is again 'indenskjjers'. We
now steer to the S.E. into the Namsenfjord, which is separated from
the Redsund to the N.E. by the long winding island of Otlere. As
usual, the scenery improves as the fjord is ascended, and the
steamer soon stops at the charming little town of —

40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.) Namsos (p. 224).

From Namsos to Kongsmo. A small steamboat plies onee a week to
the Indre Foldenfjord (see Comrnunicationer, No. 285). The fjord is very
narrow and picturesque, resembling the Lysefjord near Stavanger, and is
nearly 12 sea-miles in length. Stations : Servig , Seierstad , Lund , etc.
From the terminus Foldereid we can proceed by boat-skyds to Kongsmo,
whence a road leads by Heland and Haugum to Namsos ; from Aavatns-
vand, on the Eidsvand, a little beyond H0land, a path diverging to the
left crosses the hills to (5-6 hrs.) the Fiskumfos (p. 225).

Steering to the W. we next touch at (20 Kil.) Foslandsosen,
then thread the very narrow Redsund, traverse the Foldenfjord
with its maze of islands, and reach (25 Kil.) Apelvar, on a small
island at the mouth of the Indre Foldenfjord.

The steamer, which generally performs this part of the voyage
at night, now threads its way through an infinity of small islands.
To the right is the island of Nare.

15 Kil. (9!/2 M.) Rervik (opposite the telegraph-station of
Ncerosund), on the island of Indre Vigten, to the "W. of which are
the islands of Mellem Vigten and Ytre Vigten, on which rise the
Sulafjeld (605 ft.) and Dragstind (525 ft.). On the left, farther on,
is the Lecke, where a curiously shaped mountain is said by tra-
dition to represent a giantess who was pursued by her lover,
while her brother attempted to rescue her. The ' Torghalten'
(p. 234), or hat of the latter, having been pierced by an arrow shot
by the amorous 'Hestmand'' (p. 238), the sun shone through the
aperture and metamorphosed the distressed maiden into stone, the
pursuer being at this juncture only 105 English miles off! In pass-
ing the giantess the natives sometimes raise their hats with mock
ceremony.

38 Kil. (24l/2 Engl. M.) Gutvik. On the right, farther on, is
the Bindalsfjord, with its numerous ramifications, the boundary
between Nordre Throndhjems Ami and Helgoland, the Halogaland
of early Norwegian history, which extends to the N. to the pro-
montory of Kunnen near Bod» (p. 239).

Twice weekly the steamer 'Torghatten' from Br<<rn0 (p. 234) plies on
the Bindalsfjord as far as Teraak and Heilslad, near Bindalen- Vatsaas
(comp. Communicationer, No. 287). Thence towards the N.W. runs the
Thostnfjord, a huge mountain-cleft, l3/4 sea-miles in length, extending to
Thosbotn and Oaarden Thosdal, from which the traveller may proceed
with a guide to Hortskarmo in the Sveningsdal and Mbsjeen on the Vef-
senfjord (p. 235) in l>/2-2 days. The ascent from Gaarden Thosdal is ex-
tremely steep, and on the E. side of the mountain there is a very trouble-
some ford across the Gaasvas-Elv.

234 Route 29. TORGHATTEN. From Throndhjem

From Gutvik the steameT steers towards the island of Torgen
with the *Torgb.atten ('market hat'), one of the most famous is-
lands of the Nordland, situated in 65°24' N. latitude. It resembles
a hat , about 800 ft. in height , floating on the sea , and is pierced
about halfway up, from N.B. to S.W., by an aperture known as
Hullet (formed by the 'Hestmand's arrow ; see the legend above
mentioned), through which, in passing between the island and the
mainland , the passenger can see the sky on the other side. The
height of this curious natural tunnel at the E. entrance, according
to Prof. Mohris measurements , is about 62 ft. , in the middle
203 ft., and at the "W- end 246 ft. The sides are flat at most
places, nearly perpendicular, and here and there look as if they
had been artificially chiselled. 'At the entrances are huge heaps
of rocky rubble (Vr), but in the cavern itself there are but few
blocks of Tock. The view of the sea with its countless islands and
rocks, seen from this gigantic telescope, is indescribably beautiful
and impressive'. (Vibe, 'Kusten u. Meer Norwegens' ; Gotha, 1860,
with two views of the island. See also Friis, 'Kong Oscar II's Keise ;
Kristiania, 1874.) On the island is Oaarden Torget (good quarters),
near which are a burial-place and a few reminiscences of anti-
quity. The tourist-steamers afford their passengers an opportunity
of landing to inspect the rock-tunnel, to which the steamboat com-
pany has made a path from the landing-place. Passengers by
mail-steamer who intend to visit the island must disembark at
Sflmnaes, by which they lose several days (comp. p. 230).

38 Kil. (241/2 Engl. M.) Semnces, a charmingly situated place,
to the S.E. of the Torghatten, with smiling meadows and corn-
fields. Thence we steer through the Brenesund to —

10 Kil. (6 Engl. M.) Br«n* (65°28'), which boasts of a pastor,
a doctor, and a telegraph-office. The telegraph is of great importance
to the natives. On the arrival of a Sildstim, or shoal of herrings, they
frequently have to telegraph for extra supplies of salt and barrels,
which are then sent by steamers chartered for the purpose. On the
shore are often seen the isolated cottages of the Strandsiddere, who
live exclusively by fishing. Inland settlers are called Opsiddere
or Nysiddere by way of contrast. The steamboat 'Torghatten'
maintains regular communication between Brane and the surround-
ing islands and coast villages (comp. Communicationer, No. 287).

A visit may be paid from Bt0h0 to the grand Velfjord, on which the
steamer 'Torghatten' plies twice weekly (Communicationer, No. 287), touch-
ing at Bere, Eidet-Sxterland (at the entrance to the Skillebotn, at the end of
which there is a quarry of excellent bluish-white marble), Ncevemces, and
Hegge (good quarters at the landhandler's), near the church of Nestvik. —
In the Tidingdal, one of the innermost branches of the Velfjord, which is
there called the Store Bjerga, the valley ascending from the fjord sud-
denly rises to a height of 438 ft., and over this terrace is precipitated the
Tidingdalsfos in a single leap. — From the Velfjord to the N. diverge the
Oksfjord and the Storfjord, two long and wild creeks, which may also
he explored from Saltbu. — From Bjergeeren, at the end of the Store
JBjUrga, a fatiguing mountain-route crosses to Hortskarmo in the Svenings-

to Bode. S0VIK, 29. Route. 235

dal (see above). — From Hegge the traveller may walk to the S. to Ncever-
sled on the Urfjord, row thence to Somnhoved, and walk to Semnces, the
steamboat-station to the E. of the Torghatten (p. 234).

Some of the steamboats next call at Tilrum-Markedplads, to the
N. of Br»n», others at —

20 Kil. (12V2 Engl. M.) Rare, on the large mountainous island
of Vagen, to the W. Most of the vessels then steer past the Vel-
fjord, in which, to the right, rises the huge Mosakselen, while on
the N. side are the Heiholmstinder. They then pass between the
island of Havne and the mainland, on which lies —

30 Kil. (from Brene) Forvik or Vivelstad. We now approach
the imposing Seven Sisters (see below), which have long been vis-
ible in the distance. To the E. towers the conspicuous Finknce
(4330 ft.). The steamer crosses the Vefsenfjord, passes on the right
a hill remarkable for its red colour, and. stops at the flat island of —

24 Kil. (15 Engl. M.) Thjete, formerly the property of Haarek
of Thjete, a well-known character in early Norwegian history.

The steamboats skirt the W. side of the large island of Alsten,
touch at S-evik, and then at (27 Kil..) Sandncesen (good quarters;
telegraph- station), at the N. end of the island, near which are the
old church of Stamnces and the district-prison. The view of the
Seven Sisters from this point is strikingly grand. At the S. end of
Alsten (65 Engl. sq. M. in area; 1500 inhab.) is the church of
Alstahoug (5 Engl. M. from Sevik, 12 M. from Sandnseseen), where
Peter Dass , the famous author of 'Nordlands Trompet' (pub-
lished for the first time in 1739) was pastor from 1689 to
1708. This work contains a most accurate description of this
province of Norway in poetic garb , and will be found an in-
valuable travelling companion by persons acquainted with the
language. (Best edition by Eriksen; Christiania, 1874.) On the
Haugnas, near the church, is the so-called Kongsgrav. — About
4 Engl. M. from Sandna?seen is Oaarden Botnet, the best starting-
point for the ascent of the northernmost of the *Seven Sisters (Syv
Sestre), which rise to a height of upwards of 3000 ft. There are
in reality six mountains only , but the summit of one is divided
into two ridges. The highest summit is called the Digertind.
The view from the top is one of the grandest and most peculiar
in the Nordland.

From S0vik a steamer of the Helgelandske Dawnpskibs-Selskab (comp.
Commtmicationer, No. 289) ascends the Vefsenfjord via Sandnaesein twice
weekly. The scenery is very imposing, and in the interior of the fjord
the mountains are beautifully wooded. The long and narrow S.E. arm of
the fjord, into which the steamer steers, is named the Vefsenbunden. Here lies
the steamboat station of Mosjaen (Fru Schreder's Hotel; English vice-con-
sul, Mr. H. P. Dahl; telegraph-station), with 1200 inhab. and large steam
saw-mills. From Mosj0en a good road leads to the Tustervand and to Stor-
nes on the Resvand (1475 ft.), which ranks next to Lake Mjsrsen in point of
area. From Stones the traveller may ascend the Brurskanke and the Kjering-
tind (5805 ft.), on the W. side of the lake, and then follow the course of the
Resaa, the discharge of the Tustervand and Rpsvand, towards the N. lo
Rasaaeren on the Ranenfjord (p. 236). About halfway thither a digression

236 Route 2.9. RANENFJORD. From Throndhjem

may be made to the E., tip the course of the Bjuraa, for the sake of
ascending the imposing £>xtinder (ca. 5580 ft.); but these peaks are more
easily reached from Rjjsaa/jren and through the Leerskardal.

On other days a steamer of the same company (Communicationer, No.
289) plies on the Eanenfjord (see below) and also goes to the W. to Herjaen.
The fishery at Aasvcer, to the W. of Dynnwse, and on the 'Skallen' ('fish-
ing banks') in December and January is very productive. At that season
no fewer than 10,000 fishermen sometimes congregate here, and within
a fortnight or three weeks they catch as many as ten million herrings
(200-250,000 barrels). The greatest Fair in the Nordland takes place on
2nd July annually in the Bjem-Marknadsplads in the island of Bynnces, and
is largely attended by the country-people from far and near, and by their
servants, who are in the habit of specially stipulating in their contracts
for ' Markedsferier' or 'fair holidays.' The fairs in the Nordland were
formerly called Ledingsberge (Lensberge), because the taxes (Leding) of
the inhabitants were paid at them.

14 Kil. (8'/2Engl. M.J Kobberdal on the island of Lekten, the
next station of any importance, commands a view, towards the E.,
of the Ranenfjord, which is entered by some of the steamers (eomp.
Communicationer, Nos. 200, 201).

The 'Ranenfjord (anciently Radund) is famous for its timber, and
yields the material of which almost all the boats, houses, and coffins
between this point and Vads# are made (boats, see p. 237). The prin-
cipal stations are Ilemnces and Mo (both telegraph-stations). The scenery
becomes more attractive as we ascend the fjord.

Hemncvs (good quarters at Landhandler Nilsen's), with a new church.
Bound the church are several small cottages, erected for the accommo-
dation of peasants from a distance, who arrive here on Saturday evening
to attend divine service on Sunday. Excursions hence to Resaaeren and
to the 0xtinder (see above).

Mo (rooms at Landhandler Meyer's), 60 Kil. (37!/2 Engl. M.) from Kobber-
dal, carries on a considerable trade with Sorsele in Sweden via. Umbuglen
and the Bonces Pass. Railways to Throndhjem to the S., to the Folden-
fjord to the N., and even across the Bonses Pass into Sweden are pro-
jected. — The following stalactite caverns ('Drypstenshuller') may be
visited from Mo : the Risagrotte on the Langvand, near Ilammermes
(7 Engl. M.) ; the Laphul, near Gaarden Bjernaa, and opposite to it another
by Gaarden Grenlien, both in the valley of the Redvas-Elv. An excursion
may also be made to the glacier of Svaetisen (p. 238) by rowing to the
end of the Langvand and following the valley to the N. as far as Fiskl-
jtrnmo. A glacier-pass crosses hence to the end of ike\\Melfjord (p. 239).

Another excursion is to the Svartisvand , a lake into which an off-
hoot of the Svartisen Glacier descends. (Forbes's Norway, p. 228.)

To the N.E. of Mo extends the interesting Dunderlandsdal (the Finnish
word Tunduri, and the Lappish Duodar signifying mountain), a broad
valley, the central point of which is Bjceldaances. "Several of the streams in
this valley disappear in caverns formed by the erosion of the marble
from the surrounding mica-slate, and suddenly re-appear lower down.
This is the case with the Stilvasaa, near Gaarden Slorforshei in the Skog-
frudal (about 15 Kil. from Mo), where there is a very curious, but now
ruined mill. Near it is the Urtvand, an interesting forest-girt lake.
Farther W. is the Eiteraa, which drives mills immediatelv on its egress
from the bowels of the earth. In the vicinity are TyvsheUeren ('thieves'
grotto') and an interesting Ravine, with an icy current of air through it,
where the rushing of the subterranean water is distinctly heard. A third
stream of the same kind is the Pruglaa near Gaarden Jordbro. By the
Pruglheibro are about fifty water -worn JcHtegvyder ('giant cauldrons'),
called by the Lapps 'Kailnihct Basalum Garre', or the wash-tubs of the
mountain-women.

From Bjeeldaanaes (55 Kil. from Mo; carriage-road without statison)

to Bode. JUNKERSDAL. 29. Route. 237

we may visit the Stormdals/os and the Marble Grotto at its foot, near
the Brediksfjeld. The Vrtfjeld, reached by crossing the Slormdalshei, and
the Brediksfjeld command uninterrupted views, embracing the Svartisen
and the Lofoden Islands. The excursion should be continued to the
Svartisen, which descends to the Kvitvaselvdal, and to its ice-fall on
the slope of the Magdajoklind,

From Bjseldaanses it is a day's ride to (45 Kil.) Storjord in the Beieren-
dal. The route follows the Bjceldaadal, passes the Nedre and f)vre Bjal-
daavand, crosses a pass (2805 ft.), and traverses the dvre and Nedre Tol-
daadal, past Toldaa and Aasbakke, to Storjord (good quarters at the under-
forester's). From Storjord to Soleen (with the'church of Beieren, p. 247)
14 Kil. more.

From Bjseldaanses to Almindingen in the Saltdal is also a long day's
journey, during which the traveller meets no one but workmen employed
on the telegraph. The route leads either through the Bjseldaadal (following
the telegraph-wires), or through the Gubbelaadal, Randal, and Lemesdal,
which last forms the upper end of the Saltdal. Below the junction of the
Saltdal and Junkersdal lies Gaarden Berghulnws ; thence to Almindingen and
Rognan, see p. 243. — From Berghulnses the traveller should proceed to
the E. to the Junkersdals-Gaard, in the Junkersdal (14Kil. ; good quarters).
The bridle-path thither leads through the Junkersdalsur, one of the grand-
est rocky ravines in Norway, formed by the Kjernfjeld to the E. and the
Solvaagfjeld to the W. (4-5000 ft. high). The route is very dangerous
in winter owing to the frequency of avalanches (Sneskred). Farther
up, the valley is called Graddis, and is traversed by a bridle-path li>
Sweden, much frequented in winter, and provided with several 'Fjeld-
stuer\ Many settlements of Lapps are to be met with on the heights in
the Dunderdal and Saltdal, where acquaintance may easily be made with
their Gammer ('earth-huts') and their mode of life (comp. p. 254). — From
the Junkersdal to the Saltdal, see p. 243.

The next station, about 6 Kil. to theN.E. of theRanenfjord, is —
17 Kil. (from Kobberdal) Vigholmen (good quarters), charm-
ingly situated. The Ranvceringsbaade, pointed skiffs with lofty
bows, recalling the Venetian gondola, are built here. They are
called Fjering, Sexring, or Ottring, according as they have four,
six, or eight oars (each pair wielded by one rower), these words
being contractions of the numbers 4, 6, 8, in composition with
aring, a termination from Aar ('oar'). These boats were formerly
amazingly cheap, and even now a substantial 'Sexring' can be
bought for 40-50 crowns. The Fembering (or Fembyrding~), a heav-
ier kind of boat, used in the Lofoden fishery, and accommodating
five men, is also built here. As might be expected, the Norwegian
boatmen are much more adroit in the management of their craft than
most other continental oarsmen.

From Vigholmen the steamboat steers to the N.W. between the
islands of Huglen, Hannese, and Toinbe. To the E. are seen the
S.W. spurs of the Svartisen, and to the W. the singularly shaped
islands of Lovunden and the group of Threnen (Threnstdvene).
The former, upwards of 2000 ft. high, is 20 Engl. M., and the
latter, a group which is equally lofty , consisting of four rocky
islands, 28 Engl. M. distant; but both seem quite near in clear
weather. These islands are the haunt of dense flocks of sea-birds
(Lunnen, Lundefugle , Mormon Arcticus), which nestle in the
clefts of the rocks and are caught by dogs trained for the purpose.

238 Route '->U. SVARTISEN. From Throndhjem

The precipitouyness of Lovunden, the summit of which appears to
overhang the water, has given rise to the saying —

'Se! hvordan han luder den gamle Lovund!'
('See how it overhangs, the ancient Lovund'.)
Another saying is —
'Hestemanden tute, Lovunden lute, og Trenen er lsengere ute.'
('The Hestmand blows his horn, the Lovund overhangs, and the
Thren lies farther out.')
See Peter Dass, 'Samlede Skrifter'; Kristania, 1874; vol. i., p. 94.

Lovunden and Threnen are inhabited by fishermen only. On
one of the latter group of islands there is a church, where the
pastor of Lure occasionally performs divine service. These islands
may be visited from the station Indre Kvare , but the passage of
the Threnfjord is often rough.

The Arctic Circle (66° 30'), which we now cross, passes through
the islands of Threnen and a little to the S. of the Hestmande.
The steamboat traverses the Stegfjord, the passage between the
Lure on the left and Alderen on the right, and we soon come in
sight of the *Hestmand0 (1750 ft.), which is perhaps the most
interesting island in this archipelago. To the right, on a projecting
peninsula of the mainland, lies —

31 Kil. (1972 Engl. M.)Jndre Kvare, a lonely place, from which
visits may be paid to the Melfjord (see below), the Lure, Lovunden,
Threnen, and the Hestmand. The 'horseman's island', seen from
the W., resembles a rider with a long cloak falling over his horse
(see the legend mentioned at p. 233). The summit is said to be in-
accessible, but an attempt to reach it might be made from Qaard
Hestmoen on the S. side of the island. The view from it must be
very grand, as even that from the ridge below the head of the
horseman embraces the whole of the archipelago and the imposing
Svartisen on the mainland. Those who visit the Lure should
ascend the mountain (21 1 0 ft. ; *Vie w) at the back of Gaarden Lure,
which lies l'/2 Engl. M. from the harbour.

Magnificent as the scenery has hitherto been, it is far surpassed
by that of the *Svartisen, which the steamer now skirts for several
miles. This part of the voyage appears to greatest advantage when
performed at night, so that passengers have an opportunity of observ-
ing the effects of the midnight sun. Svartisen is an enormous mantle
of snow and ice, resembling the Jostedalsbrae and the Folgefond,
about 35 Engl. M. in length and 10 M. in breadth, and covering
a mountain-plateau upwards of 4000 ft. in height, from which pro-
trude a few Nuter or Knolde ('peaks', 'knolls'). From this plateau
descend numerous glaciers to within a few hundred feet of the sea,
those extending farthest down being in the Holandsfjord (p. 239).
The westernmost spur of this almost unknown region is the pro-
montory of Kunnen (p. 239), which extends far into the sea.

10 Kil. (6 Engl. M.) Selsevig, (telegraph-station), to the right
of which is the Rangsunde, with the Melfjord and its grand moun-
tains beyond it.

to Bode. BOD0. 29. Route. 239

The Melfjord, which may be visited from Selsuvi^, branches off into
the Nordfjord and the inner Melfjord. From Gaarden Melfjord, at the
head of the latter, a route crosses the Svartisen to Fiskljernmo, and leads
thence to the Langvand and to Mo on the Ranenfjord (see p. 236.).

11 Kil. (7 Engl. M.) Rede, with the 'Norske Leve'. To the
right, farther on, are the Tjongsfjord and the Skarsfjord, with their
ramifications the Berangsfjord and Holandsfjord, which extend
into the heart of Svartisen. Passing the Omnese on the right, the
steamer touches at (28 Kil.) Grene, a picturesque and smiling
island, one of the nearest points to the Svartisen, of whioh it
commands a striking view, and the best starting-point for a visit
to its magnificent scenery. The steamer affords a view of the deep
indentation formed by the Glomfjord (see below), and then steers
through a narrow strait between the Mele on the left and the
Skjerpa on the right to the promontory of Kunnen. Far to the N.
we obtain our first glimpse of the Lofoden Islands.

From Greln0 we may take a boat into the Holandsfjord as far as
Reindalsvik (fair quarters) , and thence ascend the Reindalstind (2100 ft.),
which commands a magnificent view of the Svartisen. — A visit should
also be paid to the (lVa Engl. M.) Fondalbrw, with its huge ice-caverns.
The tourist-steamers enter the Holandsfjord and wait here some time.
As, however, the ascent to the glacier is rough and inconvenient, few
passengers go the whole way to it.

From Glommen, at the head of the Glomfjord (also reached by boat
from Gr0n0), which does not penetrate so far into the Svartisen, the dreary
Dokmodal or Arsladal may be ascended and the mountains crossed (without
difficulty, though no path) to (30 Kil.) Beierens Kirke (Soleen, Arstad,
p. 241), at the head of the Beierenfjord.

The promontory of *Kunnen or Rotknaet (1995 ft.) forms the
boundary between the districts of Helgeland and Salten, and at the
same time possesses a climatic and geographical importance similar
to that of the promontory of Stadt in the Sandmere (p. 169). From
this point there is a 'Havseie' ('sea glimpse'), or opening in the
island-belt, through which a view of the open sea is obtained and
its motion sometimes felt. To the N. the Fugle comes in sight, and
53/4 sea-miles beyond it the island of Landegode (p. 243), resem-
bling 'two gigantic buoys which mark the entrance to the Salten-
fjord'. The atmosphere here is often remarkably clear. — The
opening in the 'Skjaergaard' is soon passed (generally at night),
and we next observe on the left the Fugle, the Fleina, and the Ar-
neer, and on the right the church of Gildeskaal and the large is-
land of Sandhom, the highest mountain in which is called Sand-
hornet (3295 ft.). The Beierenfjord (p. 240) may be entered either
on the S. or the N. side of this island. This fjord and the pro-
montory of Kunnen form the northernmost limit of the silver fir. —
We now enter the Saltenfjord , obtaining a view in clear weather
of the snow-mountains around the Sulitelma (p. 242) to theE.,
and soon reach the curious rocky harbour of —

70 Kil. (44 Engl. M.) Bod* (67° 17'; Nilseris Hotel, R. 1, S.
IV2 kr. ; Mr. V. B. Jentoft, English vice-consul; telegraph-station),
a busy and increasing place, with 2800 inhab., and the seat of the

240 Route 29. BEIERENFJORD. Excursions.

Amtmand or provincial governor. The annual mean temperature
here is 372/5° Fahr., that of July 541/2°> and that of January (not
colder than Christiania) 32°. The large modern buildings contrast
strangely with the old cottages with their roofs of turf (Naver). The
stone church is very ancient, and contains several old pictures and
the coats-of-arms of some Danish families. A large wooden church
in the Gothic style was completed in 1886. Almost all the steamers
coal at Bod». Passengers who do not intend making any stay here
will at least have time to land and ascend (with guide) the *Leb-
saas , a hill 1 hr. to the N. of the town , which commands a view
of the Lofoden Islands to the W., of the Blaamandsfjeld or 01-
majalos (p. 242), a snowy range adjoining the Sulitelma (which is
not itself visible) to the E., of the Bersvatnstinder to the S.E.,
and of the Sandhorn, with the Svartisen , to the S. A similar
view, though less extensive, is obtained from the fields, 5 min. to
the S. of the town; and the view from the Voldfjeld (ca. 1310 ft.),
1 hrs. to the N. of Bod», is also said to be line. Geologists will be
interested in the erratic blocks of syenite in the midst of a rock-
formation of slate. — A pleasant excursion may be made hence to
the (6 Kil.) Vaagevand, on the bank of which is a club-hut.

A road leads to the S.E to ('^hr.) the Church of Bode and the
Prcestegaard, at which Louis Philippe, when travelling as a refugee
under the name of Miiller (accompanied by Montjoye, who called
himself Froberg), was entertained on his voyage to the North Cape
in 1796. A room in the house is still named after him. Beyond
the church the road traverses a pleasant tract, with rich vegetation,
on the bank of the Saltenfjord (see p. 241).

Boda is a good starting-point for three interesting Excursions,
described below. Comp. the Maps, pp. 230, 242.

1 . From Bod» to the Beierenfjord.

This tjord, a profound mountain-chasm, not unlike the Geiranger
Fjord, is most conveniently visited by the steamer '■Salten' (see Communi-
caiioncr. No. 291), which usually leaves Bod0 on Tuesday and Friday
evenings, touches at Skaalland, Rosnces, Sandnoes, Kjelling, and Tvervik,
and returns the same day (6 hrs. there and back). Travellers intending
tu visit the inner Fjord must leave the steamer at Tvervik, and after
having performed the round described below, await there the next steamer
in its return voyage.

Crossing the Saltenfjord, we skirt the island of Sandhorn. Sta-
tions Skaalland, on the left, and Sandnces, in the island of Sand-
horn. We now enter the *Beierenfjord, a narrow inlet flanked by
most imposing mountains. The narrowest point is at Oaarden Eg-
gesvik. The last station is Tvervik, whence the steamer returns to
Bode. From Tvervik we row to (3 Kil.) Soleen (good quarters at
Landhandler Jentoft's), whence we may ascend the Heitind
(4120 ft. ; with guide), which commands a magnificent view of the
mountain-solitudes extending into Sweden, of the Svartisen'to the
S., and of the sea with its numerous islands to the W., including

from Bode. SALTSTR0M. 29. Route. 241

even the mountains in the Lofoden islands, 17-20 sea-miles distant;
or we may row to Arstad, where there is a skyds-station and a fine
waterfall. The road leads thence through a picturesque valley, past
Beierens Kirke (with Oaarden Moldjord adjacent), to Storjord,
Aasbakke, and (about 20 Kil.) Toldaa (p. 237).

2. From Bod» to the Saltenfjord and Skjbrstadfjord.

The steamboat 'Salten' usually leaves Bodjzf on Wednesdays and Sat-
urdays for Iiognan at the S. end of the Skjerstadfjord, where the Saltdal
begins, and returns thence to Bod# at night. Stations: [Valosen, Hopeu,
Strain, Slemlcmd, Skjerstad, Sand, Venset, Udvig, Fuike, Lei/set, and Rognan.
Some of these are left untouched on each voyage.

An equally good plan of visiting the Saltstr0m is to drive from Bodp
(telegraph beforehand if possible for carriole) to (17 Kil., l'/2 hr.) Kval-
vaag; thence by sailing-boat in 1-1 Va hr. to Streim (see below). In this
case the excursion takes 6-8 hrs.

The Skjerstad Fjord is the western prolongation of the Salten-
fjord, from which it is separated by the Streme and the Oode, to
the N. of the Streme. Between these islands and the mainland
are three very narrow straits, the Sundstrem (200 ft. wide), the
Storstrem (500 ft.), and the Oodestrem , through which an enor-
mous mass of water has to pass four times daily, forming a tre-
mendous, roaring cataract, commonly known as the Saltstr«m, as
each tide pours in or out of the fjord. The usual rise of the tide
here is 5-6 ft. only, but when it increases to 8-9 ft. , as in the case
of spring-tides, the scene is a most imposing one. The steamboat
can pass through these straits during an hour or so at high or at low
tide only, and times its departure from Bode accordingly (from 4
to 10 a.m.). The Saltstrem is described by Schytte in 'Bodes
Beskrivelse', by Sommerfelt in 'Saltdalens Beskrivelse', by Vibe
in his work on the sea and coast of Norway, and by other writers.

To view the Saltstrem , which far surpasses the famous Mal-
strem (p. 248) on the coast of the Lofoden Islands, we must disem-
bark at Strem, and wait for several hours (quarters at Thomson's).
The best point of view, to find which a guide is necessary, is about
3/4 M. from Strem. The scene is most effective when the water is
pouring into the fjord , when thousands of waterfowl hover about,
fishing in the troubled waters. A granite column at Baksundholm
commemorates the visit of Oscar II. in 1873. (Friis1 Beise). The
ascent of the Bersvatnstinder to the S. of Strem is recommended.

Skjerstad, on the S. bank of the fjord named after it, lies at
the entrance to the Misvarfjord, a bay of the fjord. Opposite, to
the W., is the old gaard of Lences, with an ancient burial-place.
The steamer then recrosses the fjord to —

Venset (good quarters at Koch's). About 5-6 Kil. farther is 0ines-
gavlen, a promontory of conglomerate, a formation which also oc-
curs in the Kjatnas, 14 Kil. to the S.

Fuske (slow skyds-station), on the N. bank of the fjord, whence
a road leads by the Fuskeeid to Dybvik on the Folden fjord (p. 244).

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 16

242 Route 29.' SULITELMA. Excursions

Fuske is also the starting-point for an Excursion to the Sulitelma,
which, in spite of inevitable privations (bad sleeping quarters), is well
worth undertaking; provisions must be brought from Bod# or Fuske.
Leaving Fuske by boat-skyds (to be obtained at Andresen's) we cross the
Finneid, where there is a fine waterfall, past which runs a wooden slide
(Lapp rnuorka) for the purpose of drawing boats up to the lake across the
isthmus at low tide. At flood tide we row through the Finneidstrum.
We then row on the Nedre Valid to Moen, at its upper end, and over the
0vre Vand. The route traverses the district called Vattenbygdm. At the
head of the J&vre Vand is (9-10 hrs. from Fuske) Slcjemstu, the last skyds-
station, where the night is spent. Next day we walk to (IV2 hr.; guide)
Sijenstudal, where we hire a boat to Fagerlid. The starting-place is about
J/2 hr. from Skj#nstudal. Our picturesque course leads first up the swift
stream issuing between steep banks from the Langvand and interrupted
here and there by rapids, where we disembark for a short passage by
land. We then ascend the Langvand itself, on the banks of which are
numerous waterfalls and gaards. In 3 hrs. (5 hrs. from Skj0nstu) we reach
the upper end of the lake, with the gaards Fagermo and Fagerlid (quarters at
Opsidder Sflren Larsen's, whose son, Petter S/srensen, is an excellent guide).

The ascent of the 'Sulitelma (from two Lapp words iSullui Cielbma'1
signifying the 'festival mountain'') from this point requires 11-12 hrs. (there
and back) and is neither extraordinarily fatiguing nor dangerous. The
highest peak of the Sulitelma Mts., which stretch from N.W. to S.E., has
not yet been scaled; our goal is the Stortoppen (6175 ft.), the summit to
the N.W. In l!/2-2 hrs. we reach the plateau of "Hankabakken (2195 ft.),
with a fine view of the Langvand, the Svartisen, and the Sulitelma
group; 2 hrs. more bring us to the foot of the Stortoppen (ca. 3280ft.);
and after another l'/2-2hrs.'' steep climb over loose stones we reach the
Vardetoppen, or W. horn of the Stortoppen (about 385 ft. below the top
of the latter), and enjoy a magnificent prospect over a wild desolate moun-
tain-region, with innumerable glaciers (here known as Jwkna) and lakes.
The mountain is covered with enormous masses of snow, which have forced
the glacier to descend 700 ft. below the snow-line. Between the two sum-
mits the Salajakna descends towards the S. to the Lommijaur (2260ft.). This
lake is separated by a narrow Eid, the watershed ( Vandskillet) between the
Atlantic and the Baltic, from the Swedish PJeskajaur. — Adjoining the
Sulitelma group on the N. is the Olmajalos (5350 ft.) with its two glaciers,
the Olmajalos and the Lina-Jwkna, About 30 Engl. M. to the N.E. rises
the Savekljokko (6990 ft.), the highest summit in Sweden. The range is
formed of mica-slate.

Those who do not ascend the Sulitelma itself should at least go to the
Hankabakken or to the -Sapisvari (3170 ft.), 2 hrs. to the E. of Fagerlid
(guide desirable), which affords a splendid view of the Sulitelma group and
the Salajaekna. Other attractive points are the Lommijaur (i/2 hr.) and the
ice-wall of the Salajwkna ('split ice'), past which leads the route to Qvick-
jock in Sweden (p. 376). The Salajjrkna may be reached direct from the
Hankabakken, with a guide.

The return from Skjornstudal to (4-5 hrs.) Saxenvik on the Saltenfjord,
should be attempted only with an experienced guide. Fine retrospect of
the Sulitelma. From Saxenvik we cross by boat to Rognan (see below).

Rognan (quarters at Jens Nilssen's and at the Lensmand's), the
last steamboat-station, where the steamer stops for 1 hr. or more,
lies at the end of the Saltenfjord, on the left hank of the Saltdah-
Elv, while Saltdals Kirke stands on the right hank.

From Rognan, which is a skyds-station, we may drive up the
Saltdal to (8 Kil.) Sundby (quarters at Larsen's, the forester).

Ahout 18 Kil. from Rognan is Almindingen , a little below
which , on the opposite bank of the river , lies Evensgaard (good
quarters). From the latter a route ascends the Eveiursdal for a

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from Bode. KVITTIND. 29. Route. 243

short distance, and leads to the S. across the Solvaagfjeld, on the
N.E. side of the Solvaagtind, to the Junkerdals-Oaard (p. 237J,
a short day's walk, with which the ascent of the Solvaagtind can
easily be combined. — From Almindingen the road next leads to
(13 Kil.) Lerjordfald. About 3 Kil. above Lerjordfald we cross the
river ('Sundmand' brought from Lerjordfald) near Langsandmo or
Troldhelen and reach Gaarden Berghulnas, where a horse and guide
to Beieren and Ranen may be procured. The route now leads through
beautiful pine-wood to (11 Kil.) Storjord (quarters at the house of
the 'Forstassistent'), in the Beierendal (p. 237). Excursion to the
Junkersdal , and route to the Dunderlandsdal, see p. 237.

The Passes to Sweden are very rough and fatiguing in summer.
(In winter they are traversed more easily, being then practicable for
Kjcerris, or reindeer - sledges , p. 271.) Between the gaard of the last
'Opsidder' on the Norwegian side to that of the first '■Nyhyggare' on the
Swedish, the traveller must frequently ride 12 or even 20 hours. It is
usual to break this part of the journey by spending a night in one of the
Lappish 'Laotah', or tents. At places, too, there are 'Fjeldstuer', erected by
government for the accommodation of travellers, where shelter at least
may be procured. A guide and a supply of provisions are indispensable.

1. From the Junkersdal, the upper part of which is called Graddis,
a path leads to the S.E., passing the Godjavre, or through the Merkdal
to the Sadva Lake, Horn-Avan, and Skelleftea on the Gulf of Bothnia.
On each side of the pass there is a Fjeldstue.

2. From the Junkersdal another path leads to theN.E., passing (11 Kil.)
Skaidi, to the (17 Kil.) Balvand, and thence to the S.E. to the Horn-Avan,
where it joins the above route. The Balvand may also be reached from
the Langvand, at the W. end of the Sulitelma group, so that a circuit
from the Junkersdal to the Balvand and Langvand, or the reverse, may
be made by those who do not intend crossing into Sweden.

3. From Fagermo on the Langvand (p. 242) a route leads past the
N. side of the Sulitelma group to Qvickjock on the Lule- Elf in Sweden
(120 Kil. ; 5 days). The path leads past the Rovijaur and Farrejanr to the

Virijaur (once the headquarters of Wahlenberg, the naturalist), where
Lapps with their tents are generally met with. Thence to Njungis, the
first permanently inhabited place in Sweden, and to Qvickjock (p. 376).
The first of these routes is the easiest, the third by far the grandest.

3. From Bod» to the Island of Landegode.
This excursion, including the Kvittind, takes 8-9 hrs. We row
across in 2-3 hrs. (3-4 rowers) and land near the gaards of Kvig and
Sandvig, whence we ascend the *Kvittind (2320 ft.) in ll/%-2 hrs.
(guide, Henrik of Sanden). The view from the Varde is, perhaps,
the grandest in the Nordland. To the N. lies the whole chain of
the Lofoden Isles, to the E. the Sulitelma; on the S. the view ex-
tends to the Hestmand and Threnen.

II. From Bod« to Tromsa.

315 Kil. (196 Engl. II.). Steamboat inlVa day. There are about 30 mail-
steamer stations, which are not, however, all touched at on the same
voyage. The Tourist Steameks (see p. 225), steering directly from Bod0
to the I.ofoden Islands, pass Henningsvar (p. 246) and enter the Qimse-
sund. Then, skirting the N.W. side of the 0stvaag0, they return through
the Raflsund (p. 248) towards Ledingen and Harstadhavn (p. 250).

The distances are calculated from station to station.

16*

244 Route 29. FOLDENFJORD. FromBode

Bode, see p. 239. — The mail steamer steers round the
Hjerte, running chiefly within the Skjsergaard. On the left rises
the mountainous island of Landegode (p. 243).

32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Kjarringe, the first station, lies to the
S. of the Foldenfjord, the surroundings of which are very grand.
The lower part of the mountains has frequently heen worn quite
smooth by glacier-action, while their summits are pointed and
serrated like the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc. One mountain in par-
ticular, of which Prof. Forbes gives a sketch ('Norway', p. 58),
presents the appearance of an extinct crater. At the head of the
Foldenfjord rise other huge mountains, the peak of one of which
resembles the Matterhorn.

The Foldenfjord divides into the Nordfolden and the Serf olden , to
both of which a local steamer ('Salten') plies from Bodjzr on Tuesdays and
Thursdays, in 10-12 hrs. (comp. Communicationer, No. 291). The stations
are Myklebostad (10 Kil. to the N. of Bod#), Kjarringe, Leines (on the
Leinesfjord, to the K. of Nordfolden), Nordfolden, Resvik (accommodation
at the Landhandler's), and Dybvik (at the end of S/jrfolden, on Thursdays
only). From Dybvik across the Fuskeeid to Fuske on the Saltenfjord, see
p. 242. The scenery is exceedingly wild , and there are very few signs
of cultivation. — From Stfrfolden the Leerfjord diverges to the N.E. ;
from Nordfolden branch off the Vinkefjord, with its prolongation the Stav-
fjord, and the Merkesvikfjord. These fjords are almost entirely uninhabited.

Shortly before reaching (36 Kil.) Orete (telegraph-station), the
steamboat passes through the Gissund, an extremely narrow strait,
the bottom of which is often distinctly visible through the clear
green water immediately under the steamer, and where the navi-
gation requires great caution. It then passes between the Engel-
var on the W. and the Skotsfjord , with the Skotstinder, on the
E., steers eastwards into the Flagsund, bounded by the mainland
on the S. and the Engele (Stegen) on the N., and stops at —

20 Kil. (12!/2 Engl. M.) Bogei. Steering in a sharp curve round
Stegen, we observe on the right the beautiful, but sequestered
Sagfjord, which extends inland to Teimmemas, about 4 sea-miles
distant. Farther on, leaving the Lunde to the right, the vessel
again steers out into the Vestfjord, which separates the chain of
the Lofoden and Vesteraalen from the mainland. In clear weather
a magnificent *View is here disclosed of Lofotvaggen (see below),
one of the most superb sights on the whole voyage. We now
traverse the open fjord, unprotected by islands, which slowly con-
tracts. To the right rises the peak of the Hammeretind.

The Lofoden and Vesteraalen groups are separated from each
other by the Raftsund (p. 248), all the islands on the W. of this
boundary belonging to the Lofoden , and those on the E. and
N. to Vesteraalen. The Lofoden Islands describe a long curve
towards the W. and S. , somewhat resembling a horn, which tapers
towards the S. from the Hind» ; and they have not inaptly been
likened to the skeleton of some vertebrate animal, the smaller
vertebrae of the tail being at the S. end. Most of these islands
lie so close together that no opening in their long mountain chain

to Tromse. LOFODEN. 29. Route. 245

is visible from a distance , but the intervals between those at
the S. end of the group are wider. This chain forms a perfect
maze of mountains, bays, and straits, interspersed with thousands
of small rocky islets {Holme, Skjcer, or Flese, from the Icel. flesjar,
as they are often here called) , and numerous excellent fishing-
banks (Skaller , Klaker) , and enlivened at places with fishing-
stations and small harbours ( Veer). Most of the mountains are
picturesque and pointed in shape, and many of them rise immed-
iately from the sea, while the whole range, sometimes called lLo-
fotvaggen' ('Lofoden wall'), with its countless pinnacles, which have
been compared to sharks' teeth, presents a singularly impressive
scene. A peculiarity of these mountains is the crater-like formation
of many of their peaks, recalling those of the Tatra Mts. in Austria.
So far as they are not covered with snow , they are for the most
part clothed with a kind of green moss, which possesses a curious
luminosity , particularly in damp weather ; but there is also
no lack of entirely barren rocks. Good harbours (Vaage, lcel.
Vagar) abound, where the largest vessels, dwarfed to the dimen-
sions of nut-shells, lie in close proximity to enormous walls of
Tock, several thousand feet in height. The larger islands contain
rivers and lakes of no inconsiderable size. The growth of trees in
this high latitude is but scanty, but there is abundance of fresh
green vegetation owing to the humidity of the climate in summer
and its mildness in winter. The sea never freezes here. — The
scenery of the Lofoden Islands, as well as that of the mainland
opposite, is viewed to the best advantage on a bright summer day,
in steering across the Vestfjord. By midnight light they present
a strange and weird, but less imposing appearance, while the
moon is entirely shorn of its silvery lustre by the proximity of the
orb of day. Still more picturesque is the scene when witnessed
during a gale or a passing thunder-storm, the solemnity of which
greatly enhances the wildness of the picture. Having seen the Lo-
foden Islands in all these aspects, the writer ventures to affirm that
they surpass the finest scenery of Southern Europe in sublimity.

The famous Lofoden Fishery (Oaatfiske) is prosecuted on the
E. coast of the islands from the middle of January to the middle of
April. Millions of cod (Skrei- Torsk, Gadus morrhua), which come
here to spawn, are caught here annually, with nets (Gam), long
lines (Liner) provided with numerous baited hooks, or hand-
lines (Djupsogn, or Dybsagn). The fish are then carefully cleaned,
and either dried (Terpsk) on the islands on wooden frames (Hjel-
der), or slightly salted and carried to drier regions on the main-
land, where they are spread out on the rocks to dry [Klipp.sk, from
kleppen, to split open). When the fish is cut open and the back-
bone removed, it is called Rotskjcer ; when simply cleaned in the
ordinary way, it is called Rundfisk or Stokpsk. The Tarfisk is chiefly
exported to Italy, and the Klipfisk to Spain, where it is known as

246 Route 29. LOFODEN. From Bode

bacallao seco (coinp. p. 173). Fish simply salted without other pre-
paration are called Laberdan. The heads were formerly thrown
away, but are now dried by fire and pulverised, and thus converted
into 'fish-guano'. On some of the outlying islands the cod-heads are
boiled with sea-weed (Tarre) and used as fodder (Lepning) for the
cattle. During the three fishing months no fewer than 30, 000 fisher-
men are employed on the Lofoden coasts. The boats, to the number
of 8000 or more, flock to the three principal fishing-banks, within a
mile of the islands, where the water varies in depth from 30 to
120 fathoms. The shoals (Torskbjerg) of cod , probably on their
way from the great banks farther N. , extending along the coast
and thence to Spitzbergen, are here so dense that hand-line fish-
ers, with artificial minnow (Pilk) and sinker (Jernsten, Sekkjet,
Sykket), hook their prey as fast as they can lower their lines. Bach
boat's crew is called a Lag, over which the Heivedsmand or captain
presides. The annual yield averages 20 million fish, many of
which are of great size, and the number has even reached 37 mil-
lions (1886). An average catch (Fisket) of 5-6000 cod per boat is
considered a fairly good haul. The chief stations are Henningsvcer
(p. 247), where a naval officer is posted to preserve order, Vaagen, and
Svolvar (the island of Skroveri). The motley multitude, assembled
from the N. and W. parts of Norway, presents a most interesting
and novel sight. Most of the fishermen sleep in temporary huts
(Rorboder) erected for their accommodation. In the middle is the
fire-place (Komfur), where they cook their Supamelja (a kind of
soup) and Okjysta. The whole proceedings are usually very orderly
and peaceable, especially as no opportunity is afforded for the
purchase of spirits. Many of the fishermen realise very handsome
profits, and as they are paid in cash, the coffers of the Norwegian
banks are often well-nigh drained for the purpose. A clergyman
(Stiftskapellan) is stationed here during the period of the fishery
for the purpose of performing additional services in different parts
of the islands. — At the close of the winter fishery (Gaatfisket)
most of the fishermen proceed towards the N. to Finmarken to
prosecute the Vaarfiske ('summer fishery') or Loddefiske.

The winter fishery is unfortunately often attended with great
loss of life. Thus when a westerly gale unexpectedly springs up,
rendering it impossible to return to the islands, the open boats
are driven across the broad and stormy expanse of the Vestfjord
for a distance of 10-12 sea-miles, often capsizing before they reach
the mainland. On these occasions the 'Tolleknive' of the ill-fated
crew are sometimes found sticking on the outside of their craft,
where they have been used by their owners for the purpose of
enabling them to hold on. Some of the boats are, indeed, provided
with handles (Stropper) for this purpose. On 11th Feb., 1848,
500 fishermen perished in a catastrophe of this kind.

The total length of the Lofoden and Vesteraalen Islands is

to Tromse. LOFODEN. 29. Route. 247

about 130 Engl. M., their area 1560 sq. M., and their permanent
population about 20,000 souls.

The chief steamboat-station in the Lofodens is ■ —
54 Kil. (34 Engl. M.) Svolvser (good quarters atthe telegraphist
Valeur'a, who speaks English, and at the Landhandler's), on an is-
let off the S.E. coast of 0stvaage, the largest island in the group.
The guano factory , in which cods' heads are pulverised , is worth
a visit. Hard by is the lofty Svolvctrjuret (ascent 4-5 hrs.); and
opposite lies the island of Skroven, with a light-house.

The following are the permanent Telegkaph Stations on the Lofoden
and neighbouring islands. Servaagen, Balstad, Stamsund, Henningsvwr,
Kabelvaag, Svolvwr, Brettesnass, Kjee, Tranei, Korsnws, Ledingen, Sandlorv,
Harstadhavn, Sommerei, Sorlland, Stokmarknws, and Be. The following
are open for part of the year only : Sund, Ure, Hopen, Skraaven, Borgevwr,
Digermulen, Langnws, and Eidsfjorden.

Svolvaer is the starting-point of the Bergen and Nordenfjeld
local steamers which connect the principal places in the Lofoden
and Vesteraalen groups with the line of large steamers plying be-
tween Throndhjem, the North Cape, andVadse. Passengers by the
mail-steamers who wish to visit the Lofodens, disembark at Svol-
vaer and continue their voyage with the next steamer thence.

Three lines of local steamers ply from Svolvaer, all running in con-
nection with the large mail and tourist steamers (comp. Communicationer,
Nos. 294, 202). A. The Lofoden Line on Tues. at noon from Svolvaer to
Kabelvaag , ffenningsvair, Lyngvwr, Gimse, Stamsund, Balstad, Nufsfjord,
Sund, Beine , Moskences , Vwre, and Rest (called at every second voyage) ;
returning on Wed. by the same route, reaching Svolvaer in the evening. —
B. The First Vestekaalen Line on Frid. at midday from Svolvaer for
Brettesnces, Digermulen, Leksund, Sane, Melbo, Stene, Stokmarknws, (Bitter-
stad), Kvitnces, Sortland, Skjoldehavn, (Risohavn), Alsvaag (Sun.), Langenws,
(Nyksund), Sommere, Bredslrand, Hovden, Skarvaag, Stene, Melbo, Stok-
marknoes, Sorlland, Kvitnces, Leksund, Digermulen, and Brettesnces, reaching
Svolvser on Sat. evening. — C. The Second Vestekaalen Line at midday
on Sun. from Svolvaer, following almost the same route as Line B but in
the reverse direction, and reaching Svolvcer again on Mon. evening.

On returning to Svolvaer, we may resume our journey by the steamers
plying to the N. and S. on Frid. forenoon and on Sun. and Tues. morn-
ings. The first Vesteraalen line has also a connection at RiS0havn with
the Tromsfl steamers (p. 249).

The Lofoden Steamer touches first at Kabelvaag, that and the
following stations being, like Svolvser, on the 0stvaagei. Kabel-
vaag may also be reached in IV4 hr. by a good road, beginning at
a few fishers' huts opposite Svolvser (row across; 20 min.), and
leading through picturesque scenery. In the reverse direction this
walk forms a pleasant break in the steamboat journey (consult the
captain beforehand). Near 0rsvaag are the church and. parsonage
of Kirkevaag, founded at the beginning of the 12th cent., where
Hans Egede, the Greenland missionary, was pastor in 1707-18. —
The Skjser or rocky islands to the left are the Flesene, Orund-
shallen, and Vestvar, all good fishing-stations. — Above Hennings-
vcer (see above), with a guano factory, towers the Vaagekalle
(3075 ft.). At Lyngvcer there is another guano factory.

248 Route 29. LOFODEN. From Bode

The steamer now steers through the Oimsesund to Oimse, and
returns to Stamsund on the Vestvaage, with the Himmeltinder and
the imposing promontory of Vrebjerg. Near Balstad, on the small
island of that name on the Napstrem, rise the Skotstinder. —
Thence we sail to Sund, on the rapid Sundstrem, which separates
Flakstadei from Moskencese. On the S. coast of the former, near
Sund, there is a bay called Kvalvig ('whale creek'), where numer-
ous whales are caught annually. Entering the bay at flood tide, the
whales And themselves unable to turn in the narrow space, and so
are compelled to swim on, until they are left stranded by the ebb-
tide. Travellers by this route are almost sure to have an oppor-
tunity of seeing whales at some'point. — From Sund we sail by
Seine to —

Moskenas, the principal village, with the church, of the large
Moskencese. To the S. of it is the famous Malstrem, a cataract
formed like the Saltstrem (see p. 241) by the pouring of the tide
through a narrow strait, but inferior to it in grandeur. It assumes
a most formidable appearance , however, when on the occasion of
a spring-tide the wind happens to be contrary and disturbs the
regular flow of the water. The worst part of the Malstram ('grind-
ing stream') is at a deep sunken ridge between the Lofotodden
(the S. promontory of the Moskenaese) and the Hegholmer ('hawk
islands'), called the Horgan, where the sea seethes and foams an-
grily at almost all states of the tide.

The little island of Mosken to the S. of the Malstrem gives it
the alternative name of Moskenstrem. The most southerly islands
of any size in the Lofoden chain are Voire, with a parsonage and
a church, transferred hither from Vaage in 1799, containing an
altar-shrine with reliefs in alabaster, and the flat and populous
island of Rest, 4M. totheS.W., in a very lonely and open situation.
Rest possesses a small church, but the 'Prsest' lives in the Vara.
The climate of all these islands is so mild that the sheep pass the
winter in the open air, whence they are known as Udgangsfaare.

The Vestebaalen Steamer (Line B) steers to the E. from
Svolvser, passing Brettemces and Digermulen, into the *Raftsund,
the last of the Lofoden Streme, separating the 0stvaage from the
Hinder, an island 860 Engl. sq. M. in area. At the S.W. extremity
of Hinder lies Digermulen (steanib. stat.), at the entrance to the
Raftsund, into which the vessel now steers. The scenery here is
very fine, especially at the point where the Troldfjord diverges to
the left.

At the N. end of the Raftsund lies Hane (good accommoda-
tion), on the small island of that name. — The steamer then crosses
the Hadselfjord (passing the Mesadelen, which rises in the Hindfl to
a height of 3600 ft.) to Melbo in the pleasant UUve, from which a
view of the open Arctic Ocean is obtained. Skirting this island,
we next touch at —

to Tromse. LOFODEN. 2.9. Route. 249

Stene i Bei on the Lange-, an island with numerous peninsulas,
fjords, and narrow isthmuses, forming nearly the whole W. side
of the Vesteraalen group, and containing together with the Skoyse
five different parishes (Fjerdinger). We next call at —

Stokmarknces, steer through the narrow Beresund to Kritnwt,
in the Hinder, and thence to the N., between the Langs' and the
Hind». During the whole passage the M»sadelen remains in view.
Its glacier is said to be the saddle of a maiden giantess fleeing
from her pursuers, all of whom, like herself, have been transformed
into stone. The scenery here is both grand and pleasing. At —

Sortland (quarters at Ellingson's) on the Sortlandsund we may
disembark and await the return of the steamer on the following day,
occupying the interval with a visit by rowing-boat (sexring)
across the sound to the 'Eiderholme' , or breeding-place of the
eider-ducks, the down from which is so important a source of wealth
to northern countries. The next station is —

Skjoldehavn in the island of AruLer (p. xxxii). The island of And»,
about 270 Engl. sq. M. in area, is less picturesque than the others
of the Vesteraalen group, a great part of it being occupied with
flat marshes, where the 'Multebfer' grow abundantly. The highest
mountain in the island, to the W. of Ramsaa, about 1850 ft. in
height , commands a magnificent view, but the ascent is marshy
and rough. The most northerly station is Risehavn.

A local steamer from Tromssi or Harstadhavn (p. 250) plies to the And«r,
calling at Dverberg and Risehavn, whence a visit may he paid to the
coal-fields of Ramsaa.

Opposite Skoldehavn lies Alfsvaag in the Lange, situated
on the Gavlfjord, which separates the Lange1 from the And». The
steamer proceeds as far as Langences , the N. extremity of the
Langs', returns thence, and steers round the S. end of the And» to
Nyksund, Sommere , Bredstrand, and Sundere on the W. coast.

The large mail-steamers steer E. from Svolvaer to ■ —
45 Kil. (28 Engl. M.) Trane i Hammer (telegraph-station), on
an irregular peninsula on the mainland.

21 Kil. (13 Engl. M.) Korsnces (telegraph-station), at the en-
trance of the Tysfjord, on which a steamer plies to Kjeib$vig(LCom-
municationer', No. 292). The Tysfjord has various ramifications,
including the Hellemofjord and the Botnfjord (extending to within
7 Engl. M. of the Swedish frontier), the Orundfjord, the Munfjord,
and the picturesque Stedfjord, above which rises the Stedtind.

From Musken, near thehead of theHellemofjord, aroute leads by Kraakmo,
situated between the 4th and 5th of the seven lakes bearing the name of
Sagvand, to Teimmernces on the Sagfjord, and another to Hopen on the
Nordfolden (p. 244). — From Kraakmo (where excellent quarters are
obtainable) we may ascend the huge Kraakmotind , and make an ex-
cursion by the 5th, 6th, and 7th Sagvand (the boat being dragged across the
intervening necks of land) to the magnificent primaeval forest adjoining the
7th lake. Travellers from Kraakmo to Tommernres on the Sagfjord(10Engl.
M.) cross the four lower Sagvand lakes by boat. A waterfall 50 ft. high is

250 Route 2<J. L0DINGEN. From Bode

passed a little before the fjord is reached. — Another route leads from Drag
on the Tysfjord across the picturesque Dragseid to theSagfjord. The steam-
boat-stations nearest the Sagfjord are Boge and Tratie (see pp. 244 and 249).

18 Kil. (11 Engl. M.) Ljadingen, with the chief telegraph-station
and a church and parsonage, picturesquely situated on a peninsula
of the Hinde, which is here separated from Tjalle and the main-
land by the TjcMsund.

To the N.E. of Ltfdingen extends the Ofotenfjord, one of the largest
fjords in Norway, on which the steamer 'Namsos' from Bod0 plies twice
weekly (comp. Communicationer, No. 292). The S. shore, on which lies
Balcmgen, is fertile but comparatively tame. The steamboat touches at
Lidland (good quarters at Klseb«r's), on the N. side of the fjord, at the
entrance to the bay called Bogen, and then holds to the S.E. to Vicloria-
havn, the terminus of the new railway (now in progress) to (489 Kil. or
304 Engl. M.) Lulea in Sweden (p. 375), and to Fagernws on the Beis/jord
(quarters at 'Mosling's). The grandest scenery on this fjord is to be found
in its W. ramifications, particularly the Rornbah and the Beis/jord, be-
tween which rise the easily ascended Tutta (5150 ft.) and Vomtind. The
Landhandler Mosling at Fagernrss will provide the traveller with a guide
(probably Jo Larsen, a Lapp).

To the S. from the Ofotenfjord diverges the imposing Skjomenfjord,
at the end of which lies Elvegaard (good quarters). A route to Sweden
leads hence through the Serdal, passing the old copper-mines of Skjangli
(38 Kil.). By far the finest scenery here, however, is on the W. arm of the
Skjomenfjord, at the end of which is Skjombotn, above which towers the
Frosliseti (to the W.), with its enormous glaciers.

As the next stage is uninteresting the opportunity of sleeping
should be taken. The steamer steers along the E. side of the
Hinder through the Tjcellsund , which afterwards expands into the
Vaagsfjord.

30 Kil. (18!/2 Engl. M.) Sandtorv (telegraph-station), on the
Hinder.

13 Kil. (8 Engl. M.) Grmsholmen, on the Hinder.

15 Kil. (972 Engl. M.) Harstadhavn (telegraph-station), the
first station in Tromse And, situated on a fertile height in the N.E.
of the Hinder, and one of the most beautiful places on this part of
the coast. Towards the E. lies an expanse of water resembling an
Alpine lake, with snow-mountains in the background; to the N.
rises the Senjehest, the S. promontory of the large island of Senjen.
— About 20 min. walk to the N.E. of Harstadhavn is the famous
old church of Throndences, which in the middle ages was the north-
ernmost church in Christendom. — Roads lead hence to the Kas-
fjord (view of And») and the church of Baa. Harstadhavn is the
junction of several steamboat lines. All the large steamers touch
here, and also the local boat from Tromser to And* (see p. 249).

The steamer next steers to the E. across the Vaagsfjord to the
promont ry of Rolde. To the left are the Gryte and the Senjehest,
between which a glimpse of the open sea is obtained. We now
pass through the strait between the Rolder and the Andorje.

33 Kil. (201/2 Engl. M.) Havnvik (telegraph-station), in the
Rold«. The church, in Ibestad, is, like that of Throndenaes, of
stone with a vaulted roof, while all the other churches in Tromse

to Tromse. MALANGENFJORD. -29. Route. 251

Stift are timber-built. To the S.E., on the mainland, towers the
Messetind (3320 ft.), to theS. of which rises the Skavlikollen (3300
ft.). Both of these mountains may be ascended, with a guide, the
first from the Gratangenfjord, the second from the Gravfjord.

The scenery becomes very grand as we steam through the Sa-
langenfjord and the Mjesund, between the Andorje and the main-
land. On the left rises the huge Aarbodstind (3855 ft.), with a
large glacier and a fine waterfall, and on the right the pointed
Faxtind (3995 ft.).

A local steamer, leaving Tromsff on Tuea. and Wed., touches at Sg-
veien (good accommodation) in the Salangenfjord, from which a journey
to the E. to the Bardudal and the Maalselvsdal may be undertaken (see
below). Passengers by the larger steamers reach S#veien by landing at
JIavnvik and rowing thence (3 31., or 12 Engl. M.).

The scene is most impressive at the next station —

29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.) Kastnaeshavn, whence all these moun-
tains, including the pinnacle of the Faxtind, are seen simultane-
ously, while the horizon to the W. is bounded by the mountains of
Ande and others. — To the W. lies the Dyre, with the Dyresund.
The voyage between Havnvik (or even between Harstadhavn) and
Kastnajshavn should on no account be missed by the traveller, and
the scenery should be witnessed both in going and in returning.
The writer, who saw this sublime spectacle both in bright sun-
shine and in wild, stormy weather, considers it unsurpassed in Nor-
way. — In the Salangenfjord, as well as elsewhere, it should be ob-
served that the glacier-action has had the effect of wearing smooth
the lowest third of the mountains ('roches moutonne'es'), while the
two-thirds above are rough and serrated.

31 Kil. (19^2 Engl. M.) Eleven, on the large island of Senjen.
Large quantities of Kveiter (Hippoglossus maximus; skate) are
taken here, sometimes attaining a length of 7-10 ft. To the S.E.
rises the snow-clad Ghirragas-Tjokko, or Istind (4865 ft.).

20 Kil. (12V2 Engl. M.) Gibostad (telegraph-station), also in the
island of Senjen, which is separated from the mainland by the strait
through which the steamboat passes. The shores on both sides are
green, wooded, and tolerably well peopled, and in the background
rise snow-clad mountains, the chief of which is the Broddenfjeld
to the S. — Though still pleasing, the scenery between Kastnaes-
havn and the Malangenfjord is inferior to that above described.

The ^Malangenfjord (22 Engl. M. in length), with the fjords
to the N. and S. of it, forms a large cross, the four arms of which
are seen at one time from the deck of the steamer, while to the
N.W. we obtain a glimpse of the open sea through the Vangs
Havseie (p. 239). The fjord, which formed the N. frontier of Nor-
way in the middle ages, is enclosed by lofty mountains in every
direction. To the S. rise the snowy Maalselvsdal Mountains. The
steamer does not enter the deep indentations formed by the Nord-
fjord and Auerfjord, but touches at (38 Kil.) Maalsnces (good quar-

252 Route :>!). MAALSELVSDAL. From Bode

ters ; telegraph-station), on a promontory in the Malangenfjord,
near the mouth of the Maals-Eiv, the waters of which still ruffle
the surface of the fjord. The estuary of the river freezes in winter,
but the fjord remains open lower down.

A very interesting excursion may be made from Maalsnees through
the Maalselvsdal to the S.E. to the Rostavand and the Rostafjeld (a
carriole-drive of about 6 M.), and another to the S. to the Altevand in
the Bardudal. — Instead of returning to Maalsnses , the traveller may
proceed from Kirkemoen in the Bardudal to the W. to Seveien on the
Salangenfjord (see above). — The inhabitants of these valleys are chiefly
colonists from the 0sterdal (valley of the Glommen, p. 274) and the Gud-
brandsdal (p. 118), the first of whom were induced to settle here by the
chamberlain Bevndt Anoka1 in 1796.

1. Tueough the Maalselvsdal io the Rostavand. We drive from
Maalsnws (fast stations as far as Bakkehaug) past Hollamdernces, a place
deriving its name from the settlement which the Dutch attempted to found
here in the 17th cent, against the will of the German merchants of Ber-
gen, by whom the whole trade of Norway was then monopolised. This
circumstance is alluded to by Peter Dass in the following lines : —

'Men der denne Handel lidt lsenge paastod,
Da blev det de Bergenske Kjubmsend imod,
HollEenderne maatte sig pakke.'
(But their trade was soon doomed to expire
By the merchants of Bergen in ire :
So the Dutchmen had soon to be off.)
The first station in this picturesque valley is (14 Kil.) Ouldhav. The
road then leads past the church of Maalselven to (11 Kil.) Moen (good quar-
ters). The imposing mountain facing us is the Ghirragas Tjokko, or Istind
(4865 ft.) , somewhat resembling a crater. An excellent point of view is
the mountain called Lille Mauket, near Moen, 1850 ft. in height. (The rest
of this route lies beyond the limits of the Map.)

Passing the small stations of (18 Kil.) Bakkehaug and (12 Kil.) Neer-
gaard (slow station), with its small church, we arrive at ifverby (poor
quarters ; slow station), which, with the Nordgaard, lies at the confluence
of the Maals-Elv and the Tabmok-Elv. [Through the valley of the latter a
route leads to the Balsfjord and Lyngenfjord.] Above the Rostavand rises
the huge Rostafjeld (5110 ft.), the ascent of which is not difficult, and
may even be undertaken by mountaineers without a guide. The route
is to Gaurden Kongslid (very good quarters), whence the ascent is made
through a small valley on the E. side. Wild reindeer are sometimes seen
on the way. Opposite the Rostafjeld, to the S., rise the Likkavarre (4895 ft.),
Ruten (4385 ft.), Alap (4955 ft.), and Seutivarre (Kamnwsfjeld); to the S.E.
the Likkafjeld; to theE., quite near, the Brattifjeld.

2. Thkoogh the Bakdudal to the Altevand. We follow the above
route to Moen, and drive thence to (17 Kil.) Sundli, the first station in
the Bardudal. A route to the left, before we reach Sundli, leads to Fos-
moen and the "Bardufos, a fine waterfall of the Bardu-Elv. To the left
rise the Istinder, the westernmost of which may be ascended. From (23 Kil.)
Satermoen a route leads to the S. to the Salangerfjord (S/arveien); see
below and p. 251. — From this point to (8 Kil.) Vtken and the Altenvand
the road is uninteresting. From Stremsmoen (good quarters) onwards it is
rarely used except by Finnish traders on their way to Sweden in winter. —
On the Altenvand, about 14 Kil. beyond Viken, boats are always procurable.
To the N. of the lake rises the Guolacarro ('box mountain', 5660 ft.),
and to the S. the Rokombovre (5350 ft.). At its efflux from the lake the
Bardu-Elv forms a deep ravine, which is so narrow that a man can leap
across it.

3. Fkom S/etekmoen to S0veien on the Salangenf.iord. A good road
crosses the hill called Kobberyggen (seal's back') to (10 Kil.) Bvandvold.
We next drive along the Nedrevand to Vas/icved, and lastly to (17 Kil.)
Seveien (p. 251).

to Tromse. TROMS0. 29. Route. 253

The above routes may be combined thus : 1st day. From Maalsnses
to J0fvreby or to Kongslid. 2nd day. Ascend the Rostafjeld. 3rd day.
Drive to Kirkemoen in the Bardudal. 4th day. Drive to S#veien.

Several routes lead from the Maalsdals-Elv to the Balsfjord. The
easiest (with guide) is from Olsborg, a little to the N. of the Moen station,
to Storstenws (1st day), from which it is possible to reach Ifordkjos, at
the S.E. end of the fjord, by boat on the same day. Steamboat thence
on the Balsfjord, on the E. bank of which rise several mountains upwards
of 5000 ft. high, to Tromsizr. — Instead of taking the steamer direct to
Tromstf , enterprising travellers may proceed (boat and guide not easily
procured; gnats in abundance) from Nordkjos in one day to Mcelen at
the S. end of the Lgngenfjord, and row thence to (22 Kil.) Skibotten (good
quarters), where the Tromstf steamer calls on Thursday and Sunday.

Leaving Maalsnses, the steamer returns to the centre of the
cross formed by the Malangenfjord (passing the huge Bensjordtind,
4085 ft., on the right), and then steers to the N.E., skirting the
large island Kvale on the left, into the Tromsesund, on which lies —

50 Kil. (31 Engl. M.) Troms*. — Hotels. Gkand Hotel, E. 21/*,
B. 1 kr. ; Hotel Nokden, well spoken of. — Telegraph Station.

British Vice-Consul, Mr. T. B. Hoist. — Booksellers: Holmboe and
Nilsen. — Photographer : Vickstrem, near the market, who sells photographs
of Lapps. — Furs (polar-bears' skins, etc. ; cheaper than in Throndjhem or
Bergen) at W. Nielsen's, Stor-Gade, and in several other large shops.

Steamers. Several local steamboats ply from Troms0 to the Lofoden
and Vesteraalen Islands , and to the Ulfs , Lyngen, Eeisen , and Kvenang
Fjords. All the large Nordland steamers also call here. Comp. Communi-
cations; No. 296.

Tromse, a town with 5900 inhab., the seat of an Amtmand and
a Bishop, picturesquely situated on the island of the same name,
and on rock of a peculiar shell-formation, lies in 69° 38' N. lati-
tude. It was raised to the rank of a town in 1794, and is a busy
and gay little place, admirably adapted for a stay of some days by
way of interlude on the voyage to the North Cape. The annual
mean temperature is 353/5° Fahr., that of July 50°, and that of
January 23°, while in the interior of Finmarken the annual tem-
perature is 29° only and that of January 5°. In the market-place
are the Town Hall and the neat Roman Catholic Church. The in-
teresting Museum (Musseet ; adm. 50 ».), near the Grand Hotel,
founded in 1872, comprises an ethnographical and a natural his-
tory department, the latter containing a good zoological collec-
tion. Tromsa also boasts of a grammar-school, a school for teachers,
a bank, a telegraph-office, and a number of large shops. English
and German are frequently spoken. The streets are covered with
gravel and provided with side-walks. The main street, running
from N. to S., commands a view in the one direction of the snow-
clad Skulgamtinder on the Ringvadse and in the other of the Bens-
jordtind. The town is embellished with many mountain-ashes,
wild cherry-trees, and birches, the latter being remarkably fine.

Above the town, which stands on a slope, is a beautiful grove
of birches, where a number of villas have sprung up. From this
point we obtain a view of the Tromsdal and the Tromstind beyond
the strait towards the E. ; to the S. rises the snow-clad Bensjord-

254 Route 29. TROMS0.

find on the Malangenfjord ; to the N. are the Skulgamtinder in
the Ringvadse ; and to the W. are the Blaamand (3280 ft.), Stan-
tind, and Vastind, on the Kvale. This prospect is very striking,
especially when seen by the subdued lustre of the sun at mid-
night, when half the community is still astir.

The Harbour of Tromse always presents a busy scene , and
among the vessels are generally several of French nationality.
They bring goods of various kinds , and carry away cargoes of
salted cod-roe (Rogn), which is used as bait in the sardine-fishery.
The principal exports are, however, dried fish, herrings, train oil,
and furs, most of which are dispatched to Hamburg. Tromsa also
carries on a considerable trade with Russia, and equips a number
of vessels for the capture of seals, walruses, etc., on the coasts of
Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla. — The harbour of Tromse is ap-
proached by two straits, the Oretsund and Fuglsund on the N.,
and the Malangenfjord on the S. side,

An *Excursion to the Tromsdal (lDalen'), for the purpose of
seeing a Lapp settlement, should not be omitted (4 hTS., there
and back ; guide unnecessary ; horse 5 kr. or more). Immediately
on landing we cross the Sund (50 ». each), 500 yds. wide, to
Storstences at the entrance to the Tromsdal. Thence to the Lapp
Encampment is a walk of about 1 hr. , the ground being rough and
somewhat marshy at places. The path leads through a birch-wood
on the S. bank of the brawling stream, and passes numerous
patches of snow. We at length reach a kind of basin , with the
Tromstind rising on the S., and a waterfall on the S. side, where
there is a colony of a few Lapp families from the Swedish district
of Karesuandof, who occupy several Darfe Ooattek or Oammer.
The Qamme is a dome-shaped hut, formed, of stone, small tree-
stems, turf, and birch-bark , with a round opening at the top for
the exit of smoke and the admission of light. Each hut is always
provided with a Are, over which is suspended a pot or kettle, and
around it recline the inmates. The hearth is called Aran, and the
seat of honour beside it Boasso. These Lapps possess a herd of no
fewer than 4-5000 reindeer, but a few hundred only, enclosed in
a Rengjctrde, into which they are driven to be milked, are usually
shown to visitors (a small fee expected). Among the pretty and
useful articles manufactured by these Lapps are fur-boots (Skal-
Komager, or Skaller) and spoons and other objects in reindeer-
horn. The traveller should taste the rich reindeer-milk, which is
drunk diluted with water, and observe the peculiar crackling of
the animal's knee-joints, reminding one of the sound produced by

•h In accordance with the frontier-treaty of 7th -18th Oct. 1751, the
Swedish Lapps are entitled to migrate to the Norwegian coast in summer,
and the Norwegian Lapps to Sweden in winter. — These migrations
are said to lead to frequent disputes with the permanent inhabitants
(comp. Friis, Finmarken).

TROMSTIND. 29. Route. 255

an electric battery. The reindeer are caught by a kind of lasso,
which is thrown over their horns. They are milked twice a week
only. Reindeer milk forms one of the chief articles of food among
the Lapps. The cheese made of it is generally reserved for use in
winter.

The number of Lapps in Norway is estimated at about 18,000, of
whom 1700 are still nomadic in their habits. Sweden and Russia con-
tain 12,000 more, so that the powerful race which once dominated the
whole of Scandinavia has dwindled away to a total of 30,000 souls.
The Lapps now intermarry freely with Norwegians and Finns. In Nor-
way they are often called Finner, while the Finns are named Kvcener,
from the Ian of Kajana in Finland. — From the fact that the dog alone
has a genuine Lapp name (Bwdnag) , while the other domestic animals
bear names of Germanic or Finnish origin, it has heen concluded that
the Lapps were originally a race of hunters , who adopted the nomadic
life within the historic period. On this theory the reindeer, now the prin-
cipal source of the Lapp's wealth, was at first an object of the chase only.

Among the numerous works on the Lapps may be mentioned: Mil-
ford's 'Norway and her Laplanders', 1842: Everest's 'Journey through
Norway, Lapland, etc.', 1829; G. v. Duben's (Om Lappland och Lapparne',
Stockholm, 1873; Friis's 'En Sommer i Finmarken', Kristiania, 1871;
Friis's 'Lappisk Mythologie, and Lappiske Eventyr', Kristiania, 1871;
Stoekfleth's 'Dagbog over min Missionsreise i Finmarken', 1860; J. Vahl's
'Lappeme, etc.', 1866; F. VincenCs 'Norsk, Lapp, and Finn', 1885.

The Tromstind (4085 ft.) may be ascended from the Lapps'
camp in 3-4 hrs. (guide from Tromsa 4 kr.).

We first walk to the (1 hr.) head of the valley, which terminates in
an amphitheatre of mountains resembling those in the Pyrenees. We then
ascend the steep slope to the left, at first over turf and afterwards over
snow (snow-spectacles desirable). Herds of reindeer are often met with
at pasture here. Before reaching the crest of the hill we have to climb
over a very steep snow-field. The final ascent, over snow and detritus,
is easier. The top, which is marked by a 'Varde', commands a view of
the magnificent scenery around the TJlsfjord and the Lyngenfjord ; to the
W. the sea of ice above Tronw< and the Kval#. On the E. side the
mountain falls almost perpendicularly to a neck of land between the
Ulfsfjord and the Balsfjord (Ramfjord).

III. From Troms0 to the North Cape.

361 Kil. (224 Engl. M.), including the detours made by the steamboats.
By Steamboat in l'/2 day, with 5 mail-steamer stations. — Only pass-
engers by Tourist Steamers have the opportunity of both ascending the North
Cape and of visiting the 'Bird-mountain' of Sva-rholtklubben. The Hammer-
fest steamers return at once from the North Cape to Hammerfest, as
soon as their passengers have accomplished the ascent. The Vadsu steamer
passes the North Cape if the passengers desire it, but does not land them ;
it then goes on to the Svserholtklubben. — Comp. p. 225.

Distances are calculated from station to station; comp. p. 231.

Leaving Tromse, the steamer steers through the Tromsesund,
passing Skateren on the left, and enters the Gretsund. To the left
lie the Kvale , the mountainous Ringvadse (with a glacier and a
lake formed by a moraine), and the Reine , at the S. extremity of
which lies Finkroken. Opposite, on the mainland, is the Vlfstind
(3280 ft.), standing like a sentinel at the mouth of the Ulfsfjord,
which here opens to the S.

The "Ulfsfjord, which penetrates into the land for a distance of
31 Engl. M., between the peninsulas of Sluoranjarga (on the right) and

256 Route 29. LYNGENFJORD. From Tromse

Iddonjarga , is traversed weekly by a steamer from Troins/J (Communi-
cationer, No. 296). The first steamboat-stations are Finkroken, on the is-
land of Ren#, and Jcegervand, on the E. bank of the fjord (near the fine
lake of that name), behind which tower the Jagervandstinder, with their
conspicuous glaciers (visible from the steamers passing the end of the
fjord). The steamer next touches at Ulfmws and at Gjevik, at the entrance
to the bay of '-Kjosen, which is enclosed by huge glacier -covered moun-
tains. On the S. side rise the Forncestind (about 6000 ft. ; comp. p. 257),
the Redbjergtind, the Rernwstind, and the Jertind ; on the N., the Sofie-
tind, the Tyttebarvik (at the foot of which lie the gaards of Kjensberg and
Ttjtlebcervik), and the Kjoslinder. At the head of the bay lies the station
of Kjosen (tolerable quarters), whence we may cross the 'Eid' to (3/4 hr.)
Lijngen, see p. 257.

The S. part of the Ulfsfjord, named the Ser/jord, connected with
the main fjord by the narrow strait of Stremmen, in which the current is
very strong, is not visited by the steamer.

The large steamer next touches at (55 Kil.) Karlse, where the
storms and fogs which prevail in the Arctic Ocean are frequently
encountered. The milk-white mist often lies on the surface of the
water only, while the sky is bright and sunny. In this case the
steamer has to cast anchor , and the traveller will have abundant
leisure to observe the peculiar white Skoddebuer (Shodde , 'scud',
'mist' ; Bue , 'bow') , formed by the fog. The Karls» is a lonely
and treeless island. To the N. lies the Vanne , and to the S. E.
rise the mountains of the Lyngenfjord (see below).

The steamer now rounds the promontory of Lyngstuen (2130 ft.),
steers to the E., and enters one of the finest parts of our northern
voyage. We observe to the N. the picturesquely shaped and unin-
habited Fuj/te (2575 ft.), to the S.Pj. of which lies the large Arne.
In front of us is the small Vortere, behind which we perceive the
beautiful outline of the Kaage (3960 ft.), with a glacier high
above the water. To the S. we survey the whole of the magnificent
** Lyngenfjord , on the W. side of which is an unbroken chain
of huge mountains and glaciers, 5-6500 ft. in height. To the S. of
the promontory of Lyngstuen tower the *Pipertind , the *Qoat-
zayaise (4440 ft.), the Kopangstind, Fastdalstind, and the immense
Kjostinder (5410 ft.). From almost all these mountains (where
the snow-line is about 3800 ft.) imposing glaciers descend far
into the valleys. The rocky walls are also draped with numerous
waterfalls.

The Lingknfjokd, in addition to the tourist-steamers (which make
this stage on the return journey by the light of the midnight-sun), is also
traversed twice weekly by a local steamboat from TromsU (p. 253), which
makes the excursion in 3 days with varying stations (Communicationer,
No. 296). Those who avail themselves of this local boat may break the
journey at Lyngen and return by the Ulfsfjord route (see p. 255), or they
may join the large northward-bound steamer at Skjservp. Those who
contemplate any excursions on land are strongly recommended to possess
themselves of the Karl ever Tromse Ami (four sheets, at 1 kr. 60 0. per
sheet) and of the Beskrivehe af Tromse Ami (1 kr.), both published by the
'Oeografiske Opmaaling' of Christiania.

On Sun. the local steamer touches at the Karlse and then steers
round the promontory of Lyngstuen into the Lyngenfjord (on Wed. the
direction of the tour is reversed). The snow-clad peaks on the W. side
of the fjord tower to an immense height above. The principal stations

to the North Cape. LYNGENFJORD. 29. Route. 257

fon the W. bank) are Lyngseidet (see below) and Con the E. bank) Dybvik
(telegraph-station), Langnws in the Kaafjord, and Skibotten and Horsncet
in the Slorfjord, or S. prolongation of the Lyngenfjord.

Lyngseidet or Lyngen (good quarters; telegraph-station), containing a
small church and the houses of the pastor, doctor, and Lensmand of the
district, is pleasantly situated in the midst of birch woods, and is admirably
adapted as a starting-point for excursions to the interesting and partly un-
explored mountains in the neighbourhood. — A very picturesque excursion,
taking 6-7 hrs., may be made to the S.W. to the mountain-basin enclosed
by the Goalsevarre (4150 ft.), the Rerncestinder (about 4100 ft.), and the Jer-
lind (about 3600 ft.). — A fine excursion for one day is made by crossing
the Eid (200ft.) to Kjosen (p. 256), rowing to the (1 hr.) Forruesdal , and
then ascending the valley on foot, crossing the old moraines, to the For-
nccsdal Glacier, which descends from the Golzevaggegaissa and is wedged
in between the Forncestind and the Durmaal&lind. — The following tour
occupies l'/2 day : On horseback to the S. to Pollen, , and by rowing-boat
to Dalen, where somewhat primitive quarters can be procured for the
night; next day ascend, on foot, through the beautiful but entirely un-
inhabited Lyngsdal, passing the Jwggevarre (6285 ft.) on the N., to the
huge glacier descending from the main plateau (lower end 1300 ft. above
the sea). From the Lyngsdal we may also ascend the Njalavarre (5010 ft.)
to the S., or walk to the N. to the glaciers of the Ruksisvaggegaissa.

After traversing the Lyngenfjord (where Langnces on the Kaafjord is
also called at once a fortnight) the steamer touches at Havnccs on the
S. extremity of the Ule, and steers through the Rolsund and the Maur-
sund , calling at the station of that name. It then passes Serkjos and
reaches the Skjeerve (see below).

Farther on it turns to the S.E. into the Kvenangfjord, at the mouth
of which rise the peaked Kvenangstinder. To the E. is the Jekelfjeld, from
which a glacier descends to the Jekelfjord. The steamer touches at the
island of Skorpen, at Slremnces, and at Alteidet, whence a road leads to
(12 Kil.) the Langenfjord, an arm of the Altenfjord (steamer, see below).
In spring a herd of 5000-7000 reindeer is driven across the Alteid to the
peninsula of Alnas-Njarg to the N. of the Eid, and some 2000 are conveyed
thence by boat to the Stjerna (p. 258). About the end of October these
last return to the mainland, to which they are made to swim (a distance
of 3 Engl. M.). All these tame animals have the owner's mark on their
ears, to facilitate the recognition of stragglers (Efterstandere), which some-
times remain for weeks behind the main herd. — From Alteidet the
steamer returns to Tromstr via Nikkeby (on the Lego), Kvitnas , Karlse,
Helger, and Mikkelvik (on the N. coast of the Ringvatser).

The mail-steamer now traverses the Kaagsund , between the
Arn» and the Kaag». To the N.E. of the latter is the small is-
land of —

42 Kil. (26 Engl. M.) Skjarve (telegraph-office) ; the station
lies in a bay on the E. side of the island. To the S. -we obtain a
view of the picturesque Kvenangstinder on the Kvenangfjord (see
above). — The steamer's course is now across the open sea, towards
the N., crossing the boundary of Troms» Fogderi, to —

40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.) happen, the first station in the Altcn Fog-
deri, a small island, exposed to the full sweep of the gales of the
Arctic Ocean. It possesses a small church and a turf-roofed par-
sonage, a two-storied house to the left of which belongs to a mer-
chant. Almost the only vegetation in the place consists of a few
meagre patches of potatoes, nothing else being able to defy the
fnry of the storms which sometimes prevail here for weeks to-
gether. Ptarmigan (Ryper) abound. — The steamer next steers to

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 17

258 Route :'!). ALTENFJORD. From Tromse

the S. into the Berysfjord, rounds the wedge-shaped island of
SUden, and stops at the station of —

16 Kil. (10 Engl. M.) Bergsfjord, where we enjoy a magnifi-
cent mountain scene. In the background is a glacier, the dis-
charge of which forms a waterfall. Passing the Lersnas, and turn-
ing to the S.E., we next reach —

33 Kil. (20V2 Engl. M.) 0ksfjord, on the Alnas-Njarg penin-
sula, with a noble amphitheatre of mountains around it, a con-
spicuous feature in which is a glacier to the W., descending from
the extensive Jekelfjeld. A little to the N. is the small church.

The Altenfjord may be visited hence by the local steamer which plies
once weekly between wksfjord and Hammerfest (comp. Gommunicationer,
No. 297, 1).

The Altenfjord is a beautiful arm of the sea, and is remarkable for
its rich vegetation, especially in its southern part (the Altenbygd). In
the annals of literature, too, it has been rendered famous by the visits
of almost all the eminent travellers and savants who have explored this
part of Norway (L. v. Buch, Prof. Forbes, and others already mentioned ;
also by Keilhau , who has written a 'Reise i J0fst- og Vest-Finmarken',
pub. 1831 , and Ch. Martins , whose 'Du Spitzberg au Sahara' is a good
French authority).

The highest mountains on the fjord, all on the W. side, are Kaavmn
(3130 ft.), between Stjernsund and Langfjord, Akkasolski (3395 ft.), between
Langfjord and Talvik, and Haldi (3030 ft.), between Talvik and theKaa-
fjord. At the end of the fjord, above Kaafjord, rises the Nuppivarre
(2675 ft.). — On the E. side of the Altenfjord is the interesting Aare,
with the scanty ruins of the old fort of Altenhus. The most famous
feature of the Altenfjord consists in its various old Coast-lines, parti-
cularly near Bossekop, formed by the gradual rising of the land, some
of them upwards of 200 ft. above the present level of the water.

The steamer steers from J^ksfjord through the Stjernsund, between
the Stjernei and the mainland , passes the month of the Langfjord and
touches at —

Talvik ('pine bay') , a beautiful spot, with a church; then at Slrems-
noes on the Kaafj ord, whence a visit may be paid to Kaafjords Kobbervwrk,
a copper -mine of no great value, the property of an English company.
We then reach —

Bossekop ('whale bay' ; bosso is the Lapp word for 'whale', or lit-
erally 'blower' ; goppe, bay ; good quarters) , at the foot of the Kongs-
hamifjeld (700 ft.). Important fairs are held here on Dec. 1st and Mar.
3rd, to which hundreds of Lapps flock in their curious sledge-boats.
They bring with them reindeer flesh , butter , and game , which they ex-
change for fish, flour, and groceries. Sometimes 10,000 ptarmigan are
offered for sale at a single fair. The observation-station of the Interna-
tional Polar Commission of 1882-83 was situated at Bossekop and was
entrusted to the Norwegians. — To the E. of Bossekop lie Altengaard
(telegraph-station) and Elvebakken, near the Alten-Elv, an excellent salmon-
river, and beyond them lies Rafsbotn.

The steamer then proceeds from the Altenfjord through the Varg-
sund, a strait between the mainland and the islands of Sljerne and Set-
land, calling at several stations on its E. bank, the last of which is Kval-
sund. It then enters the strait between the Kval0 and Seiland, called
Stremmen, once a famous resort of whales, through which the steamboat
reaches Hammerfest.

From Bossekop or Alten, at the head of the Altenfjord, to Karasjok
and to Haparanda in Sweden, see R. 31.

Our course is now to the N., towards the mountainous Sere,
which, as well as the Stjerne and Seiland, islands lying to the S.

to the North Cape. HAMMERFEST. 29. Route. 259

of it, consists to a great extent of a lofty plateau of the charac-
ter common among the mountains of Finmarken. At the S. end
of this island lies (29 Kil.) Hasvik , the next station. The vessel
steers through the broad Sersund, round the Fuglnces, and passes
on the left the curiously shaped island of Haajen. The steamer
now reaches —

61 Kil. (38 Engl. M.) Hammerfest (Jensen's Hotel; Nordpolen;
English vice-consul, Mr. 6. Robertson; telegraph -station), the
'northernmost town in the world', situated in 70° 40' N. lat., which
has enjoyed municipal privileges since 1787, had 77 inhah. only in
1801, hut now numbers about 2300. Its trade with Russia and the
Spitzbergen expeditions organised here are the chief resources of
the place. The climate is mild, the mean temperature here being
the same as at Tromse (p. 253). Sportsmen and Arctic explorers
may charter a vessel here for a northward cruise for a sum of
3000-6000 kr., according to its size and the duration of the
voyage. — The town presents a neat and clean appearance, but
smells strongly of cod-liver oil, the chief manufactories of which
are in the Orennervolds-Oade. Lapps in their quaint and pictur-
esque costumes, often intoxicated, and Finns from the princi-
pality of Finland, are frequently seen in the streets. The Russian
vessels trading with Hammerfest are generally of the ordinary
European build, the old-fashioned Lodje, a clumsy kind of lugger
with two masts and disproportionately large cabin-windows, being
now rare. Some of the shops, where bear-skins, walrus-tusks
(Hvalros, 'whale-horse'), Lapp costumes, and other specialties of
the country are sold, are attractive, though inferior to those of
TToms*. — The Church stands on a rocky hill to the W. of the
town, and is adjoined by the Churchyard, enclosed by a stone
wall. — On the E. side of the town are seen numerous Hjelder,
or wooden frames for the drying of fish. Crossing the outlet of
the Lake to the E. of the town, and following the road round
the harbour, where a number of civilised Oammer, or Lapp huts
(comp. p. 254), are seen on the rocky shore, we may walk in ^hr.
to Fuglnces , the N. promontory of the island , with a lighthouse,
commanding a fine view. In 1823 Sir Edward Sabine made some
of his famous experiments with the pendulum here. A column of
granite, called the Meridianstette, has also been erected here to
commemorate the measurement in 1816-52 of the number of de-
grees between Ismail near the mouth of the Danube and this point,
undertaken, as the Latin and Norwegian inscription records, 'by
the geometers of three nations, by order of King Oscar I. and the
Emperors Alexander I. and Nicholas'. The hills to the E. of the
Meridianstatte command a view of the horizon of the Arctic Ocean
and the midnight sun.

To the S. of the harbour is a valley extending into the interior
of the Kvale, whence a path ascends to the top of *Sadlen (pron.

17*

260 Route 29. TYVEN. From Tromse

Salen), a long hill rising above Hammerfest, from which dangerous
avalanches (Sneskrede) frequently fall. This is a very fine point of
view , though not high enough to afford an unimpeded survey of
the midnight sun. Ascending gradually for about 20 min. more,
we reach the summit of the Sadlen, which commands a view of
the grand glaciers and snow-mountains of Seiland and the Sera.
This point may also be reached from the church, at the W. end of
the town, but the ascent is steep, and there is no path.

The mail-steamers sometimes, the tourist - steamers rarely,
spend 4 hrs. or more at Hammerfest ; in this case the traveller should
not omit to ascend the *Tyven (1230 ft. ; tufva, 'hill'), which rises
to the S. of the town (i1^-^ hrs.). The following directions
will enable him to dispense with a guide. A few paces to the E.
of the harbour we turn to the right into the valley and ascend a
slight eminence with houses ; we then follow the road leading above
a lake and some pleasant-looking meadows. On the opposite bank
are seen the remains of a birch-wood , and at the end of the lake
the villas of the townspeople. We soon diverge to the right, follow-
ing the telegraph-wires , but keeping a little to the right in order
to avoid the marshy ground. The Tyven is the hill at the foot of
which the wires run. A little farther on we pass under the wires
and ascend to the left to a height covered with loose stones , pass
a small pond, and reach (1 hr.) the foot of the abrupt Tyven. Here
we turn to the left and skirt the base of a huge precipice, ascend-
ing the somewhat steep course of a small brook, fringed with wil-
lows (Salix arctica) and dwarf birches (Betula nana). At the top
of the gully we obtain a view of the sea towards the W. and the
villas on the lake to the W., above which lies another small lake.
Large herds of tame reindeer, whose peculiar grunting ('Grynten')
is heard from a long distance, always graze here in summer. We
now ascend steeply to the right , passing an expanse of snow,
which lies on the right, and then, keeping still more to the right,
reach (3/4 hr.) the summit, which is marked by a pyramid of
stones (Varde). The Tyven, which may be called the Rigi of Fin-
marken, descends very precipitously on the W. side, with the sea
washing its base, adjoining which lies a bay with meadows, a
birch-wood , and a number of houses. Towards the E. we survey
the barren and desolate Kvale , with its numerous ponds , and to
the S. and W. extensive mountain-ranges, snow-fields , and gla-
ciers. The islands of Seiland and Sere are particularly con-
spicuous. To the N. stretches the unbounded horizon of the vast
Arctic Ocean. Of Hammerfest itself the Fuglnaes only is visible.
Another prominent feature in the landscape is the promontory
extending to the W. as far as Stremmen , over which the Lapps
drive their reindeer in spring and autumn on their way to and
from the island of Seiland. The animals swim across the Strem-
men-Sund (comp. p. 257).

to the North Cape. TYVEN. 29. Route. 261

The lower part of the Tyven consists of gneiss, the upper part
of slate. The flora is interesting. In many places its surface is
carpeted with the dwarf birch. — The best way to return is by
the summit of the Sadlen (p. 259), to the W. , which commands a
similar, though less extensive view. Returning by this route, the
traveller should allow 4 hrs. for the whole excursion, but 3-3Y2 nrs-
suffice for the direct ascent and descent.

The 'northernmost wood in the world', a birch-wood about 4 Engl.
M. to the S. of Hammerfest, which books of travel never fail to mention,
is not worth visiting. — If time and weather permit, the traveller should
endeavour to take an excursion by boat to the grand and almost unex-
plored Glaciers of Seiland, which rise to a height of more than 3000 ft.,
the finest being on the W. and S.W. sides of the island. They are most
conveniently approached through a valley ascending from the Skreifjord.
— The island of Haajen ('the shark'), 4 Engl. M. to the W. of Hammer-
fest, is another interesting object for an excursion. The highest point,
which is easily reached, commands an imposing view.

Beyond Hammerfest the land ceases to be an object of interest
or value , the sea becoming the sole attraction. The vegetation
is extremely scanty, so much so that a patch of grass 'which might
be covered with a copy of the Times' is hailed as a meadow and
attracts a colony of several families. The scenery assumes an arc-
tic character, and the silence and solemnity of the scene is only
broken by immense flocks of sea-fowl wheeling over shoals of
fish or congregating around their island homes, and by the oc-
casional unwieldy gambols and noisy spouting of a whale.

39 Kil. (24i/2 Engl. M.) Rolfsehavn, on the Rolfse, an exceed-
ingly desolate island. To the N. of the Roll's^, and separated from
it by the Troldfjordsund, is the Inge, beyond which lies thefVu-
holm, with the northernmost lighthouse in Norway (71° 4'). To this
island a noble Danish lady is said once to have been banished for
certain misdeeds and after a residence here of several years to have
perished owing to the upsetting of a boat when on her way to the
church of Ing». — Farther on, to the N. of the Hjelm.0, we observe
a solitary pillar of rock , called Hjelmesteren , adjoining which is
an island frequented by sea-fowl. The auks when disturbed take
to the water, while the gulls soar aloft in dense flights. To the
N.E. rise the pinnacles of the Stappene (see below).

20 Kil. (12V2 Engl. M.) Have (telegraph-station of Have-
swnd) lies in a bay on the Have, amid grand scenery. To the left
rises a pointed hill called the Sukkertop ('sugar-loaf). The little
settlement, which boasts of a church, a 'PrEest', and a 'Landhand-
ler', is sheltered by the Hjelme on the N. from the storms of the
Arctic Ocean. Crossing the Maassund, and passing the Kulfjord
to the S., we next reach the (17 Kil.) Maase, which likewise
possesses its church, its pastor, and its merchant, a triad which
forms the nucleus of almost every village in Finmarken. Numer-
ous Hj elder , or frames for drying rish , are seen here. To the
right rises the Mugere ('sea-gull island'), with its numerous pin-

262 Route 29. NORTH CAPE. From Tromse

nacles, the northernmost promontory of which is the North Cape.
The tourist-steamers sail to the E. into the Mageresund, between
the Magerer and the mainland, in order to afford a view of the en-
trance of the Porsangerfjord and the Svserholtklubben (see p. 264),
and then steer towards the North Cape along the E. side of the
Magerer.

The next mail station on the direct route to the North Cape
is —

19 Kil. (12 Engl. M.) Ojesvcer (telegraph-station), on an is-
land, and formerly the starting-point for the visit to the North
Cape, which was reached hence by rowing-boat in 5-6 hrs. From
this remote corner of the globe, close to the North Cape, and nearly
1600 Engl. M. to the N.W. of London, the traveller may telegraph
to Great Britain for 4'/2 kr. (20 words), or to America for 36-40 kr.
(10 words). To the N. rise the *Stappene (stappi, an old Norsk word,
'column'), four pointed rocky islands covered with dense flocks of
sea-fowl, which afford excellent sport. These rocks are sometimes
known as the 'mother and her daughters'. On the easternmost of
the group once stood a church. Like other desolate spots in Fin-
marken, which also once possessed churches (Svaerholt, Inger, Om-
gang, etc.), the island is now quite deserted. The whole of this
neighbourhood abounds in rocky islands, cliffs, and reefs.

The Tuefjord opens to the right , extending far into the in-
terior of the Magerer. The steamer then rounds the long and low
Knivskjar-Odden or Knivskjcel-Odden, projecting still farther than
the Cape itself. The majestic North Cape now comes in sight.
Between the Odde , on which a steamer struck during a fog in
1881, and the Cape lies a deep bay. We obtain a good survey of
the monotonous form of the plateau of the Magere>, rising at places
abruptly from the water. At the extremity of the Cape rises the
Horn, an almost isolated minaret of rock. The Cape itself, seen
from the water, does not rise nearly so precipitously as (owing to
a well-known optical delusion) it apparently does when the tra-
veller looks down from the summit.

The **North Cape (71° 10' N. lat. ; 12y2 Engl. M. from Gjes-
v£er), named Kneskanas by the early geographer Schoning, a dark-
grey slate-rock, furrowed with deep clefts, rising abruptly from the
sea, is usually considered the northernmost point of Europe, though
the Nordkyn (see p. 265) has a better claim to the title. Travellers
generally land in the Hornvik, on the E. side of the Cape, whence
the ascent to the top takes about 3/4 hr. The Steamboat Co. has
facilitated the climb by a rope fastened to iron stanchions, and a
wire at the top of the plateau leads to the extreme point, perform-
ing a very useful service in foggy weather. The View from the pro-
montory (the height of which is estimated by the best authorities
at about 970 Engl, ft.) embraces the dreary heights of the Magerer
to the W. and beyond them the Hjelmer and Rolfser; to the N.W. the

to the North Cape. NORTH CAPE. 29. Route. 263

E. promontory of the Magera and the Svserholtklub and Nordkyn
in the distance ; to the N. stretches the unbounded horizon of
the Arctic Ocean. A granite Column was erected at the top in
commemoration of the visit of Oscar II. in 1873 (wine sold here).

'The northern sun, creeping at midnight at the distance of five dia-
meters along the horizon, and the immeasurable ocean in apparent con-
tact with the skies, form the grand outlines in the sublime picture pre-
sented to the astonished spectator. The incessant cares and pursuits of
anxious mortals are recollected as a dream ; the various forms and ener-
gies of animated nature are forgotten ; the earth is contemplated only
in its elements, and as constituting a part of the solar system1.
Acerbi, 'Travels to the North Cape'. London, 1802.

'And then uprose before me,

Upon the water's edge,

The huge and haggard shape

Of that unknown North Cape,

Whose form is like a wedge'. Longfellow.

On the S.E. side of the Magere lie the steamboat-stations of
Honningvaag (telegraph-station) and (55 Kil. or 34!/2 Engl. M.
from Gjesvaer) Kjelvik {Kjedelvik. 'kettle' or 'cauldron creek'),
with its church, pastor, and local merchant, situated, as its name
imports, in a basin of peculiar form.

IV. From the North Cape to Vads*.

The direct distance from the North Cape to Vads0 is about 290 Kil.
(180 Engl. M.), but the course followed by the steamer increases this to
690 Kil. (428 Engl. M.). Mail-steamer once weekly in 2 days. The cele-
brated 'bird-mountain' of Svserholtklubben (p. 264), the most interesting
point of the whole journey, is touched at also by the tourist-steamers,
which return thence to the North Cape.

Distances are calculated from station to station.

Beyond the North Cape the sole attraction of the voyage con-
sists in the utter bleakness and solemnity of the scene. Both main-
land and islands now consist of vast and monotonous plateaux,
called Nmringen, rising to a height of 1000-2000 ft., and generally
unrelieved by valleys. The steamboat traverses long fjords without
seeing a boat, or a human habitation, or even a bush, for half a
day at a time. At the heads of these fjords, on the other hand, we
frequently find smiling little colonies, surrounded with bushes
and trees, and houses boasting of the amenities of pianos, news-
papers , and engravings. With the North Cape terminates the
Skjaergaard, or island-belt of Western Norway, and the coast is
here washed by the long sweeping waves of the Arctic Ocean.
Fogs often prevail here, causing detention and even danger to
the steamboats.

The immense Porsanger-Fjord, about 75 Engl. M. in length
and averaging 12 M. in breadth, opens to the E. of the Magere-
sund. Numerous streams fall into it at its head. The banks
are barren, unpicturesque, and almost entirely uninhabited , but
present a beautiful appearance when richly coloured by the mid-
night sun. In July and August the Sei ('saithe', Qndus virens), a

264 Route 29. SV^ERHOLTKLUBBEN. From the North Cape

tish of the cod species, is largely caught here in nets , each of
which is managed by 6-8 boats. The proximity of a shoal is indic-
ated by the black and ruffled look of the water and the attendant
flock of thousands of sea-gulls. The Sei enters the fjord in pursuit
of the Lodde (Osmerus arcticus, a kind of smelt), which resorts
to the shore to spawn. At this season (known as the Makketid or
Parringstid, the 'mating time' of the sea-fowl) numerous Russian
vessels are seen in the harbours in this region, where they purchase
fish, salt it on board, and convey it to Archangel. — The steamer
enters the Porsanger-Fjord. It passes the Porsangernces on the right,
a promontory glittering with white quartz, and steers to the S. to —

61 Kil. (38 Engl. M.) Repvaag, near the Tamse, a flat island
with extensive moors where MultebarfJ cloud-berry', Rubus chama-
morus) grow in abundance, and tracts (Dunvare) where the 'down'
of wild-fowl is largely collected. A considerable sum obtained
from these sources is paid annually to the 'Stiftsamtmand' of Fin-
marken. — In the Porsanger-Fjord, 49 Kil. (30i/2 Engl. M.) far-
ther S., is Kistrand, the next station, with a church, a clergyman,
a doctor, and a telegraph-station. On the S. side is a small birch-
wood which is locally regarded as a little paradise.

After this long deviation frcm its direct course the steamer
returns to the N. to the mouth of the Porsanger-Fjord and steers
round * Svserholtklubben , an almost perpendicular promontory
of clay -slate, 1000 ft. in height, a resort of millions of sea-
fowl (chiefly gulls, Larus tridactylus). When scared by a cannon-
shot tired from the steamer, about one-third of the birds take to
wing in dense clouds , and after an interval of a few seconds
of perfect silence utter their peculiar cries, the effect of which
collectively somewhat resembles the sound produced by the escape
of steam from a boiler. The gulls which remain sitting on the
ledges of the black rock contrast picturesquely with it, looking
not unlike long rows of pearls. The proprietor of the promontory,
the Landhandler Krebel, lives in a small bay on the E. side of it,
called — ■

Svcerholt, where the steamer touches in tine weather only,
and of which he and his family are the sole inhabitants. He de-
rives a considerable income from the sale of the sea-fowls' eggs;
while the birds themselves are used as fodder. They are prepared
for this purpose by being buried in the earth for a time, and are
afterwards packed in casks.

Beyond the Klubbe, the N. extremity of the long peninsula of
Spirte-Njarga (the latter word being synonymous with Nets, 'pro-
montory'), which separates the Porsanger-Fjord from the Laxe-
fjord, the steamer steers to the S.E. across the latter to —

138 Kil. (86 Engl. M.) Lebesby, on the E. bank, a prettily sit-
uated place, with a church and a Landhandler. It next steers to the
N. and passes the mouth of the Eidsfjord, at the head of which

to Vadse. NORDKYN. 29. Route. 265

lies the low and narrow Hopseid, separating it from the Hopsfjord,
a branch of the Tanafjord (p. 266 ; a canal through the Hopseid is
projected). The valleys descending to the Laxefjord, like those
in the Porsanger and Tana Fjords , are all very short, with level
floors, generally several hundred feet above the water. We ob-
serve numerous old coast-levels , some of them 200 ft. high , and
usually two of them together, one above the other. The Fjcere
(astuarium), or shore between high and low- water mark, is also an
object of interest. The Drottviknaring, the promontory between
the Laxefjord and the Kjellefjord, is a majestic mass of slate-rock,
divided into perpendicular sections, and furrowed by deep gullies,
at the head of which there are large deposits of snow. At the ex-
tremity of the promontory rises the *Store Finkirke, a huge rock,
formerly held by the Lapps in superstitious reverence ; in the
Kj»llefjord, a little beyond it, is the Lille Finkirke, resembling a
ruin. The vertical strata of sandstone here are not unlike a basaltic
formation. At the head of the fjord we reach —

53 Kil. (33 Engl. M.J Kjtfllefjord, an 'Annexkirke' of Lebesby,
with several houses and 'Gammer' (see p. 254). The shore is cover-
ed with boulders , and the pilots state that the bottom of the fjord
is completely paved with them. An ancient coast-level is distinctly
traceable on the right.

Leaving the Kjallefjord the vessel steers round the Redevceg
('red wall') to the station of (17 Kil.) SkjMningberg, and along the
bold rocky bank of the Oorgas-Njarga (pron. Chorgash) , a large
peninsula connected with the mainland by the narrow isthmus of
Hopseid, already mentioned.

14 Kil. Sandfjord. The N. extremity of the peninsula is the
*Nordkyn (or Kinnerodden), in 71° 6' N. lat., or 5' (nearly (i
Engl. M.) to the S. of the North Cape, but really the northernmost
point of the mainland of Europe, and almost surpassing the N. Cape
in grandeur. Two bold mountains on the W. side guard the entrance
to a basin, bounded by a perpendicular cliff with a horizontal top,
in which lies Sandvar, a solitary fisherman's hut. The masses of
quartzose rock, broken into enormous slabs, have a very imposing
effect. The snow extends at places down to the water's edge. Part
of the Nordkyn has become detached from it, leaving a passage
through which boats can pass. Fishing - boats sometimes obtain
refuge here, but in certain states of the wind the Aflesning ('de-
tached portion') affords no shelter. Immediately to the E. of the
Nordkyn is a deep Gully ('Kile') in the rocks, into which large
blocks of stone have fallen, leaving openings below them (describ-
ed by Keilhau, 'Reise', pp. 79, 80).

Beyond the Nordkyn on the right are the promontories of Smer-
bringa and the flat Sletrxts, with a curious rock-formation called
iBiskopen\

The next station is (17 M.) Mehavn. with the train-oil manu-

266 Route 2.9. TANAFJORD. From the North Cape

factory of Svend Foyn, the celebrated whale-fisher (formerly at
Vadse). Then (20Kil.) Gamvik. Passing Omgang the steamer now
enters the large Tanafjord, about 44 Engl. M. in length, and skirts
the E. bank, with its variegated quartzose rock-formation. To the
W. lies the narrow Hopseid, which separates the Tanafjord from
the Laxefjord (p. 264). The mountains on the E. side of the fjord
increase in height, culminating in the Stangenasfjeld (2315 ft.).
To the W., farther on, is Digermulen, a peninsula separating the
Tanafjord from its branch the Langfjord, and to the S. rises the
Algas- Varre ('holy mountain'), above Guldholmen. A few isolated
' Gammer' of the Finnish families settled here are the only human
habitations to be seen. Passing (24 Ki\.~) Finkongkjeilen, the steamer
stops at —

48 Kil. (30 Engl. M.) Stangenas (Lapp, Vagge, 'valley'), where
there is a manure-manufactory. Bushes, trees, and even a few
patches of potatoes are seen here. From this point we survey the
Vestre and 0stre Tanafjord, the upper branches of the fjord, and
the Leebotten, a bay to the S.E. When a high S. wind prevails,
gusts of wind usually descend from all the branches of the fjord
(Bifjorder), causing strong local currents. — About P/4 M. to the
S. of Stangenaes is the Church of Tana, opposite which is Guldhol-
men, at the mouth of the Tana, where the water is shallow, so that
the steamer cannot proceed beyond Stangenaes.

The steamer now retraces its course through the Tanafjord,
skirts the Tanahom (865 ft.), at the N. end of the peninsula of
Itago-Njarga, and steers to the E. to (62 Kil. or 38'/2 M.) Berle-
vuag (telegraph-station), and to (52 Kil.) Baadsfjord, (16 Kil.)
Makur, and (27 Kil.) Sylte fjord (Lapp Orddo-Vuodnd), with an in-
teresting Fugleberg ('bird-hill') , frequented by thousands of sea-
gulls and auks. The scenery becomes more and more dreary, and
the shore with its large expanses of snow is now lower (400-500 ft.),
its desolateness being frequently concealed by fog. The succession
of promontories, all of uniform character, with intervening bays,
has not inaptly been compared to the scenes on the stage of a
theatre. This whole peninsula is named the Vargag-Njarga and
is bounded on the E. by the Kongsfjord, in which lie the Kongseer,
pleasant-looking grassy islands haunted by thousands of sea-fowl.

17 Kil. (IO1/2 M.) Havningberg (telegraph -station), with taste-
ful houses and a lofty wooden pier, and boasting of a garden con-
taining grass. To the left, at a height of 20-40 ft., lies the former
coast-line, above which run the telegraph-wires to Vardfl and
Vads». To the W. is the projecting headland of Harbaken. Near
Havningberg is the cavern of Ovnen, nearly 100 ft. in depth. — In
two days after leaving Hammerfest the steamer reaches —

29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.) Vard« (Figenschou's Hotel; English vice-
consul, Mr. B. S. Holmbe; telegraph-station), in 70° 22' 35" N. lat.,
which has been a town since 1 787 (2400 inhab.). It is prettily situated

to Vadse. yADS0. 29. Route. 267

on the island of the same name, which is separated from the main-
land by the Bussesund. The town has two harbours, the larger and
deeper being on the N. side, protected by a large new breakwater,
and the other on the S. side. To the W. of the town is the fortress of
Vardehus, founded about 1310, and now of no importance (garrison
of 16 men only). To this fortress, however, Norway is indebted for
her acquisition of Finmarken. Inscriptions here commemorate the
visits of Christian IV. , King of Denmark and Norway, in 1599, and
Oscar II., King of Sweden and Norway, in 1873. To the E. of the
town, which now consists of neat, well-built houses, covered with
turf, while in 1600 it was merely a group of 'miserrima pisca-
torum tuguria', rises the handsome new timber-built Church, con-
taining a brazen font. In the vicinity are numerous Hjelder for dry-
ing fish. To the E. of the fortress is a large *Whale Oil Boiling
Establishment, to which visitors are freely admitted.

If time permit, the traveller should ascend the (20min.)*K«r-
defjeld, a rocky hill 100 ft. in height, immediately behind the
church, which commands a view of the town and island, the Do-
men (535 ft.) rising to the S. E. , the unbounded sea towards the
E., and the district of Syd-Varanger to the S., with part of the ad-
joining Russian territory.

The astronomer Paler Hell of Vienna observed the transit of Venus
across the sun from the isthmus between the two harbours in 1768-69.
He caused two stone columns to he erected on the bank of the Nordrevaag,
the N. harbour, with a view to measure the gradual retrocession of the
sea, but they have unfortunately disappeared. The church-register still
contains a memorandum written by him on 22nd June, 1769. — The clim-
ate here, though colder than that of Hammerfest, is mild compared with
that of the interior of the country, the mean temperature being 32° Fahr. ,
the July temperature 47°, and that of January 14°. Comp. p. xxxviii.

Beyond Vard» the steamer passes the islands of Rene and
Home, with their Eider- Veer and Dun- Veer (tracts where eider-
down and feathers are gathered), where numerous ermines are also
found. It then steers to the S., and afterwards nearly due W. to
(15 Kil.) Kiberg (telegraph-station). The shore continues exceed-
ingly barren. In the interior rise the mountains called Ruyttotjock
and Beljek. The steamer passes the S. side of the Vadse ('water-
island'), on which the town of that name formerly lay, and finally
casts anchor in the harbour between the island and the town, which
now lies on the mainland (Vargak or Varjag-Njarg)

55 Kil. (341/2 Engl. M.) Vadsa (Lapp Cacce-Suollol , pron.
chahtze ; Finnish Vesi-Saari ; Russian Vasino ; all signifying
'water-island' ; Hotel Krogh ; English vice-consul, Mr. B. Acker-
man; telegraph - station), a town with 2200 inhab., including
1100 Finns (Kvcener), lies in 70° 4' N. latitude, and has a climate
similar to that of Varde (see above). The Finns live at Ytre-Vadse,
the E. suburb, where one of them will on application prepare a
vapour-bath ('Sauna') for travellers who desire to try the genuine
, Russian bath'. In every direction are seen Hjelder for drying fish,

268 Route 29. NYBORG.

the smell of which pervades the whole place. Potatoes thrive here,
and a few stunted mountain-ashes and plum-trees succeed in brav-
ing the long winters. Some of the gardens contain forget-me-not,
campion (Lychnis), and other flowers which in more southern
countries bloom in spring.

The Church is a tasteful building on a hill to the N. of the
town. The sacristy contains a votive picture dated 1661 , repre-
senting a married couple with two sons and two daughters, before
whom lie four dead children. Under the Tower, the ascent of
which is recommended, is a curious offertory-box. — The town
contains several large Shops , where interesting specimens of
Russian workmanship (Naverskrukker, 'bark-pouches', etc.) among
other articles are sold. — Svend Foyn's Oil Factory has been re-
moved to Mehavn (p. 265).

If the traveller, instead of returning from Vadse by the
direct steamer, proposes to return by the land-route via Nyborg,
Seida, and Guldholmen to the Tanafjord (a somewhat tedious and
expensive journey), and at Stangeiues (p. 266) to join the steamer
which brought him to Vadse, he must make arrangements with
the captain and start by the local steamer (see Communicationer,
No. 298 A) 1 hr. after leaving the larger boat. The local steamer
steers to the W. through the Varangerfjord and passes the Lille
Vadse, Paddeby (where the first birches are seen), Finsnas, where
the Nordre Jacobs-Elv falls into the fjord, and the Klubnas, a
promontory forming the extreme spur of the Klubbefjeld. The
vegetation is much richer here than at Vads», and improves the
farther we ascend the fjord. On the W. side of the Klubnaes,
which was an ancient sacrificial station of the Lapps, lies —

Mortensnces (good quarters at Nordvi's, the Landhandler's).
The Lapps have a number of their curious 'Gammer', or subter-
ranean dwellings here, and in the neighbourhood are several of
their old burial-places, situated among heaps of stones (Sten-
Ur). The other objects of interest are a Bautasten (Zcevdse Gcedge)
and some ancient stone rings. — The Storfjeld, which may be
ascended hence, commands a fine view.

Passing the church of Ncesseby (telegraph-station), the steamer
enters the Mceskefjord, the last bay on the N. side of the main
fjord. To the N. rises the Mceskehoug, a hill once regarded as sacred
I Mceske-varre ; passe-aldo).

Nyborg (quarters at Pleyms, the Landhandler's, dear) lies 43 Kil.
(27 Engl. M.) to the W. of Vadstf, iiear the end of the fjord. The
women here wear a curious adornment on the back of their heads,
similar to that used by the Icelandic women, consisting of a piece
of wood (Finnish, fierni) somewhat resembling a helmet, covered
with velvet or other stuff, and trimmed with coloured ribbons.
From this point travellers sometimes ascend the Madevarre

SYD-VARANGER. 30. Route, 269

(1470 ft.), 9'/2 Engl. M. to the N., where the forest extends to a
height of 700 ft. above the sea-level. The summit affords a good
survey of the interior of the extensive peninsula. — An excursion
may also be made to the S. by boat round the Angsnam to the
Karlebotn, and thence on foot to the Golmes-Oaaive ('three heads',
about 1300 ft. high).

For the journey from Nyborg to the Tanafjord (50 Kil.), horses
and boats are not easily procured for a party of more than four persons.
We start early and ride across the Seidafjeld (over which extends
a Rengjcerde, Lapp Aide , or wall to prevent the reindeer from
straying) to Suoppanjarg ('lasso -promontory'), or to the more
conveniently situated (16 Kil.) —

Seida, both of which lie on the Tana. Keilhau compares the
latter to a 'large group of saeters'. We now take a boat (dear),
manned with a rower and steersman , and with seats for two
passengers only, and descend the Tana, the second-largest river
in Norway, in the waters of which particles of gold occur, and
which as a salmon-stream is said to be not inferior to the Namsen-
Elv (p. 225). (In ascending the river the boatmen propel their
craft by the process of staken, i. e. punting or poling.) The boat
careers down the rapids (Stryh) at an exciting pace. The boatmen
are generally able to speak Lappish only.

At Guldholmen ('gold island' ; 30 Kil. from Seida; good quar-
ters), a small island at the mouth of the Tana, opposite the church
of Tana, we shall probably arrive in time to row to(&K\\.~) Stangenats-
Vagge, and there meet the southward-bound steamer.

30. Syd-Varanger.

If the traveller does not return to Hammerfest by the same steamer
he must wait a week for the next. In this case he should pay a visit to
the E. part of Syd-Varanger, a district much extolled hy the Norwegians.
On this expedition, for which Friis's Lapland will be found a useful
companion , the traveller will have frequent opportunities of making
acquaintance with the Lapps and the industrious Finns (Kvcener). — The
best guide to the inner Varanger- Fjord and the region to the S., as far
as Golmes Oaaive (in the parish of Na'sseby) is Keilhau's Reise i 0atfin-
marken. The country is wooded and mountainous, and almost entirely
uninhabited. The explorer should be provided with a veil (Ster) in the
form of a bag, covering the whole head and fastened round the neck,
and if possible with a mosquito-tent (Raggas) also, as gnats (Cnlex pipiens)
occur in such swarms as sometimes to darken the sun.

The district lying to the S. of the Varanger Fjord long formed
a subject of dispute between Norway and Russia, but the frontier
was at length defined by the convention of May, 1826, and Anally
confirmed by the protocol of August, 1834. — This region abounds
in timber (whence it is usually known as Raftelandet , 'Raft'
signifying planks or rafters), in fish, and in birds.

The local steamer (comp. Communicationer, No. 298 B) conveys
us from Vads» to Bugtfnses (good quarters at the Landhandler's),

270 ^ Route 'M. ELVENAES.

from which the Bugefjord runs a long way inland. To the W. rises
the Bugenasfjeld (1805 ft.), and to the E. the Brasfjeld (1335 ft.).
To the right opens the Kjefjord, the hanks of which are almost un-
inhabited. We skirt the N. side of the barren Skogere, touch at
Hjelme, and then steer to the S. into the Begfjord, which farther
on branches into the Klosterfjord and Langfjord.

At Kirkenas , on the promontory between these fjords , are
the church and parsonage of Sydvaranger (rooms at Figenschou's,
the Landhandler's). Farther up the fjord (5 Kil.)lies Elvenaes (rooms
at Klerk's, the Lendsmand's) and about 4-5 Kil. beyond it the chapel
of Boris-Oleb , named after two Russian saints, and situated in
a Russian 'enclave' of 4/9 Engl. sq. M. in area. The old church is
adjoined by a new one built of stone. At Boris-Gleb reside the
so-called Skolte-Lapps ('scalp Lapps'), who derived their name
from the fact that they were formerly bald from the effects of dis-
ease. (Friis's Lapland, pp. 149, et seq. ; Keilhau, pp. 48, et seq.)
— If the weather is favourable the steamer goes on to Hvalen, Jar-
fjordbunden , Pasvik (see below), Smaastrem, and the Russian
frontier at the Jacobs-Elv.

At Elvenaes the large Pasvik-Elv or Kloster-Elv falls into
the fjord. It derives its latter name from Kloster Peisen, a mon-
astery once situated here. The river consists of a series of twelve
lakes , connected by about twenty-nine waterfalls , and for a dis-
tance of 60 Engl. M. forms the frontier between Norway and Russia.
Its source is the Enare-Trcssk, a large lake , about 2940 Engl. sq.
M. in area. A visit may be paid from Boris-Gleb to the Storfos
( Oieddegmvdnje) and to the (6-7 Kil.) Harefos (Njoammel Guoika,
'hare-fall'), situated near the Valegas-Javre, a lake swarming with
trout; also to the (40 Kil.) *Manniko-Koski ('pine-waterfall'), the
route to which traverses the fine forest-scenery of the Sydvaranger.

A good road leads from Elvenaes to the (9 Kil.) head of the
Jarfjord, on which we may row to Pasvik (from the Lapp basse,
'sacred'), a fishing hamlet with a good harbour. A little farther
E. (8 Engl. M. from Pasvik, and 55 M. to the S.E. of Vadse)
is Jacob selvs-Kapel , the last steamboat-station , and the last
place in Norway. Since the visit of Oscar II. in 1873 , which
is commemorated by a marble slab , the place has been named
1 Oscar den Andens KapeV. It lies on the Jacobs-Elv (Lapp Vuorjerri),
which here forms the boundary between Norway and Russia. The
smelt-fishery carried on here is very important. The fish (Lodde,
see p. 264) is used as bait for the cod and other fisheries.

The following Lapp words are of frequent recurrence: duoddar,
mountain; varre, hill; varre-oaaive, hill -top; tjok, point; njarg, pro-
montory, peninsula; suolo , island; gedge, stone; gacce (pron. chatze),
water; vuodna, fjord; tshoalmi, strait; javre, lake; gaivct, spring; jokki,
river; guoika, waterfall; njalmi, estuary; jcekna, glacier; olmiis (s like
sh) , person , human being ; goatte , house ; maa , land ; buocco (buotzo),
reindeer; suoppan, lasso; gudsse, cow; guosse-voja, cow's-fat, butter; gu-
olle, fish; gnvljin, trout; mnorra , tree; bcetse, dmdno, fir, pine; kumse,

KARASJOK. 31. Route. 271

cradle; pulk, kjcevris , sledge; beska, fur-coat; gabmagak, shoes; skalko-
mager, fur-boots ; bellinger, leathern gaiters ; nibe, knife ; doppa, edge ;
bmnagulam, a mile (literally 'as far as a dog's bark is heard').

The Lapp greeting on entering a house is 'rafte vissui' (peace to your
house)! The answer, Hbmel addf (God grant it)! 'Buriif, or lbuorre
boeive" (good day) ! Answer, iibmel addi !'

31. Inland Routes from the Altenfjord
a. From the Altenfjord to Karasjok.

160 Kil. (100 Engl. 31.). The journey on horseback in summer takes
3-4 days, but can be accomplished more quickly in winter by sledge
(kjcrrris, pulk). Three Fjeldstuer, those of Jodkajavre (or Romsdalsslue),
Mollesjok, and Zarijokjavre (Zaurisstue), afford shelter for the night.
Beyond Jodkajavre the greater part of the journey may be performed by
boat on a series of lakes and rivers. The guide ivappus, 'pilot') must
understand Laplandish. In summer most of the Lapps migrate to the
coast, but in March and April they may be seen here to advantage. The
days are already long, but profound winter still reigns. The journey is
then performed in a kjwrris (sledge) or a pulk, drawn by a reindeer ; the
pulk somewhat resembles a canoe, being covered in front. The motion
is very rapid, and the swaying of the pulk is usually steadied by attach-
ing another reindeer behind, called a Stoppe-Ren (driving 'i Slagtgni'),
besides which a Vare-Ren, or reserve-reindeer, accompanies each pulk.
Lapp costume (pesk or beska, a fur-coat; ikalkomager, fur-boots; bellinger,
leathern gaiters) is desirable for this expedition in winter, besides which
a pose, or sheep-skin sack for sleeping in, is also useful. The Lapps
always use their furs with the hairy side outwards.

Bossekop, on the Altenfjord, see p. 258. Beyond Gaarden Alten
the route crosses the Alten-Elv, and leads inland, towards the S.E.
On the way we pass a number of sieidi , or sacred stones [sieidi-
gergi, 'oracle stones') ; several of these are to be seen at the top of
the Kongshavnfjeld , projecting into the Altenfjord. We also pass
several 'sacred mountains' (Basse Varek , Ailegas), formerly wor-
shipped by the Lapps. The ancient belief was that they contained
a saiwo, or paradise, inhabited by Lapps and reindeer.

The first night is generally spent in the 'Jodkastue or Bomsdals-
stue at the small lake of Jodkajavre (about 45 Kil. from Bossekop).
Beyond this lake we observe to the N.E. the Vuorie-Tjok, a barren
conical mountain, and, farther on, the Vuolla-Njunnes to the
E., both of which were once famous places of sacrifice. The country
is for the most part well wooded, and the valleys are often very
picturesque. We next reach the large lake of Jesjjavre (1595 ft.),
which we either skirt or cross by boat. Beyond this lake we de-
scend the valley of the rapid, but navigable Jes-jok, or Es-jok, into
which a route from Kautokeino (p. 272) also descends. The second
Fjeldstue, the Mollesjokstue, is about 40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.) beyond
Jodkajavre. We then cross the fjeld to (35 Kil.) the third station,
the Zaurisstue, on the Zarijokjavre. From this point we may either
proceed direct via the Geimo Javre to (25 Kil.) Karasjok, or go
first to (16 Kil.) the Karasjokka (rapid river) and descend on its
left bank to (16 Kil.) Karasjok.

Karasjok (440 ft.) has a church, a Lensmand, and a Landhand-

272 Route 31. KAUTOKEINO. From Alten

lcr, and is admirably adapted for affording an insight into the mode
of life among the Lapps. — About 15 Kil. farther to the E. the Ka-
rasjokka unites -with the Anarjok, the right bank of which is Rus-
sian territory. The combined rivers form the Tana-Elv, by which
we may descend by boat to Seida (p. 269) in 3-4 days. Travellers
on their way to Nyborg leave the river at Suoppanjarg, 8 Kil. above
Seida (see p. 269). The water of the Tana is auriferous, but the
yield is too small to repay the cost of extracting the gold.

b. From Alten to Haparanda in Sweden.

705 Kil. (437 Engl. 31.). This fatiguing journey occupies 11-13 davs.
From Alten to (140 Kil.) Kautokeino 4 days, thence to (200 Kil.) Muo-
niovara 3-4 days, and from Muoniovara to (365 Kil.) Haparanda 4-5 days.

Considerable interest attaches to this overland route, and several
points on it have attained celebrity in the scientific world, from its having
been trodden by L. v. Buch, Acerbi, Martins, Bravais, Oscar Schmidt, and
other scholars and naturalists. To this day it possesses attractions for
the scientific traveller and the sportsman, hut can hardly be recommended
to the ordinary tourist.

The best time for the journey is between the middle of August and
the middle of September. Earlier in the season the myriads of mos-
quitoes are insufferable, and at a later period the days draw in and snow
begins to fall. The traveller's passport must be vise by a Russian am-
bassador or consul (a consul at Hammerfest).

From Alten to Kautokeino (140 Kil. or 87 Engl. M.). The
shorter and preferable route crosses the mountains to the W. of
the Alten-Elv (the longer, about 98 Engl. M., follows the course
of that river). A guide and horses should be engaged for the whole
journey to Karesuando in Sweden. (The charge for a 'Vappus' or
guide from Bossekop is 60 kr. , and as much more for each of the
two horses which each traveller requires.) Four Fjeldstuer afford
shelter for the nights, but provisions must be taken for the journey.
Heavy luggage should be sent round to Stockholm, or if necessary
to Haparanda, by steamboat and railway ; if taken across country,
a third horse will be required to carry it. — The highest part of
the vast mountain-tract which the route traverses is the Nuppi-
varre (2730 ft. ; varre being the Lapp, vara the Finnish word for
mountain). The stations are: Gargiastue (36 Kil. ; 360ft. above
the sea), Suolovuobmc or Solovom (20 Kil.; 1300 ft.), Piggejavre
(26 Kil.; 9970 ft.), and (52 Kil.) Kautokeino. From Solovom geo-
logists should pay a visit to the deposits of coal on the neighbour-
ing Akso-Javre.

The longer route, following the Alten-Elv (Alatajokki), crosses
the Bcskadosfjeld to the Ladnijaure and Masi (810 ft.), in order
to avoid the Sautzofossc, the waterfalls formed by the lower part
of the river; a boat is then taken on the now sluggish Alten-Elv to —

Kautokeino (865 ft. ; good quarters at the Landhandler's, or
at Vorutris, the Lensmand, who is obliging, and will afford useful
information) , a settlement of Lapps and a few Finns, most of
whom are absent in summer, and possessing a church and parsonage.

to Hdpardnda. KARESUANDO. 31. Route. 273

The sides of the village-well are partially coated with ice, even in
summer. A few birches thrive here, but no pines are to be seen.
[L. v. Buck, vol. ii. ; Ch. Martins, 'Dn Spitzberg au Sahara', vol. i.)

From Kautokeino to Karesuando (100 Kil. or 62 Engl. M.),
a journey of two days. The traveller may ascend the Alten-Elv by
boat, or ride along its bank, to (14 Kil.) Mortas. Thence to —

Syvajarvi in Finland (Russia), 55 Kil. more. The frontier, which
we cross 11 Kil. before reaching this place, was declared by the
Danish-Swedish treaty of 1751 to be formed by the watershed be-
tween the Arctic Ocean and the Gulf of Bothnia. A ride of 28 Kil.
more, traversing the watershed (about 1850 ft.) and presenting
little interest, brings us to —

Karesuando (Inn ; 1060 ft.), the first village in Sweden. The
church was formerly at Enontehis, but when that place was annex-
ed to Finland in 1826 it was transferred to Karesuando. The
Muonio-Elf is here nearly 400 ft. wide. Barley is cultivated at Ka-
resuando with tolerable success. Petrus Lcistadius, the author of the
Lapland 'Journal' (Stockholm, 1831), was once the clergyman here.

From Karesuando to Nedre Muoniovara , 100 Kil. (about
62 Engl. M.), a journey which may be accomplished in one day
by boat on the Muonio-Elf, which forms the boundary between
Sweden and Finland. The trip is an interesting one, the passage
of the cataracts here being unattended with danger. It is usual
to hire a boat and rowers as far as Muonioniska ('beginning of
the Muonio') on the Finland side, or to Muoniovara (good quar-
ter's at Fostrurris) on the Swedish side ; but a fresh boat may be
engaged at each of the following stations : (20 Kil.) Kuttainen,
(20 Kil.) Palajokko, (30 Kil.) Ketkisuando, (20 Kil.) Ofvre Muo-
nioniska, and (10 Kil.) Muoniovara (760 ft.) About 12 Kil. below
Ketkisuando are seen the first pines (Abies excelsa). An interes-
ting description of the salmon-spearing in the Muonio by torch-
light is given by L. v. Buch in his second volume. Muoniovara is
picturesquely situated, and boasts of a few corn-fields.

From Muoniovara to Haparaxda (365 Kil. or 226 Engl. M.)
the journey is also performed by boat, first on the Muonio, and.
then on the Tornea - Elf. The rushing of the Muoniokoski , a
tremendous cataract, upwards of 1 Engl. M. long, is already audible
here, though nearly 1 Engl. M. distant. The descent is a most
exciting trip , unsuited for nervous persons. The foaming river
careers wildly through a rocky gully and over sunken rocks, lashing
the sides of the boat and half filling it with water. At one point
there are two falls , each about 6 ft. in height , and near each
other , between which the stream has to be crossed in order to
reach another narrow channel where the descent is less sudden.

'You cannot perform this passage by simply following the stream,
but the boat must go with an accelerated quickness, which should be at
least double to that of the current. Two boatmen, the most active and
robust that can be found, must use their utmost exertions in rowing the

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 18

274 Route 31. MATARENGI.

whole time, in order that the boat may overcome the force of the stream,
while one person is stationed aj the helm to regulate its direction as
circumstances may require. The rapidity of the descent is such, that you
accomplish an English mile in the space of three or four minutes. The
man that manages the rudder can with difficulty see the rocks he must
keep clear of : he turns the head of the boat directly in the line of the
rock he means to pass , and when he is in the very instant of touching
it, he suddenly makes a sharp angle and leaves it behind him. The
trembling passenger thinks that he shall see the boat dashed in a thou-
sand pieces, and the moment after he is astonished at his own existence.
Add to all this, that the waves rush into the boat from all sides and
drench you to the skin ; while , at other times , a billow will dash over
the boat from side to side, and scarcely touch you1. — Acerii.

The first part of the journey, to (280 Kil.) Matarengi, is usually
performed by boat ; the latter part, from Matarengi to (85 Kil. )Hdpa-
rdnda, by road. The boat from Muoniovara to Matarengi, or to
Ruskola a little beyond it , is manned by three boatmen and has
room for two passengers only. Besides the formidable cataract just
mentioned , we descend a succession of other rapids , but the dan-
gers of the passage have perhaps been somewhat exaggerated. The
cost of the boat as far asKuskola is about 80 kr., and the trip takes
21/2-3 days. Good quarters are procurable at Kihlangi, Kengis Brule
(iron-works), Pello, and Ruskola. Between the Kexisvara station
and that of Kengis Bruk, 3'/2 Engl. M. below it, the large Muonio-
Elf falls into the Torneti-Elf, which descends from the Tdrnea-
Trask (40 Engl. M. long; 1130 ft. above the sea), to the E. of the
Ofotenfjord. The interesting costumes of the natives at Pello
(265 ft.) should be observed. The Kittis, a neighbouring mountain,
formed one extremity of a degree of longitude measured by Mau-
pertuis in 1736.

About 3 Kil. from Ruskola lies Ofver-Tornea. Near it, on the
Finland side, a little to the S. of the Arctic Circle, rises the
Avasaxa (670 ft.), a hill which commands a view of the midnight
sun for one week. Comp. p. 377.

From Ofver Tornea, where we leave the boat, to Hdpardnda,
see p. 377.

32. From Christiania by Railway to Charlottenberg

(and Stockholm) .

143 Kil. (89 Engl. M.). Railway in 4'/V51/2 hrs. (fares 10 kr. 55, 7 kr.
65, 4 kr. 80 0.). — The train arriving at Kongsvinger in the evening spends
the night there and goes on to Stockholm next morning. The hotels are
often overcrowded, in which case travellers sleep in the railway-carriages.
Comp. p. 311.

From Christiania to (21 Kil.) Lillestremmen, see p. 118. The
Eidsvold line diverges here to the N., while the Stockholm rail-
way runs towards the S.E. , traversing a less interesting tract of
country. Lillestremmen lies on a narrow arm of Lake 0ieren
(330 ft.), formed by the influx of the Lerelv and other streams.
The lake, the broader part of which begins 5 Engl. M. to the
S.E., at the influx of the Glommen, is 20 Engl. M. in length.

KONGSVINGER. 32. Route. 275

29 Kil. (18 Engl. M.) Fetsund, where the train crosses the
broad Olommen, just above its influx into Lake 0ieren. (Steam-
boat every afternoon from Fetsund to Sandstangen, near the S.
end, in 3'/4 hrs.) Vast quantities of timber enter the lake here
every spring on their way down to Sarpsborg and Fredrikstad. The
train now follows the E. (left) bank of the river, which forms cata-
racts at places , all the way to Kongsvinger. 42 Kil. Blakjer
or Blaker; 49 Kil. Haga; 58 Kil. Aarnas. At Nces, 3l/2 Engl. M.
to the N., the Vormen, descending from Lake Mj»sen, falls into the
Glommen. The next stations are (67 Kil.) Scetersteen, (79 Kil.)
Skarnas, and (87 Kil.) Sander. Then —

100 Kil. (62 Engl. M.) Kongsvinger (480 ft.; *Railway Re-
staurant, with rooms to let; Mellerud's Hotel, Jensen's, both at a
considerable distance from the station), formerly called Leiren ('the
camp'), a small town on the right bank of the Glommen, with 1300
inhab., is reached from the station by a long bridge. The now dis-
mantled Fortress [Fmstning; 770 ft.), which once played an im-
portant part in the wars between Sweden and Norway, commands
a fine view.

The railway turns to the S.E. and quits the Glommen. The
Vingerset (475 ft.), near Kongsvinger, and the long lakes near
Aabogen and elsewhere are basins of a now deserted channel of
the Glommen, the old bed of which is followed by the railway
(comp. p. 311).

112 Kil. Aabogen, 122 Kil. Eidsskog, 133 Kil. Magnor, all with
extensive timber-yards. The train quits the district of Vinger,
in which Kongsvinger lies, a little beyond Magnor, and crosses the
Swedish frontier.

143 Kil. (89 Engl. M.) Charlottenberg, the first station in Swe-
den, and thence to Stockholm, see B. 42.

18"

SWEDEN.

33. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Railway.

356 Kil. (221 Engl. M.). From Christiania to Fredrikshald, the Nor-
wegian ' Smaalensbane\ in 5 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 18 0., 4 kr. 12 0.); thence to
Gothenburg, the Swedish 'Bevgslagsbcma' in 9 hrs. (fares 16 kr. 5 #., 8 kr.
95 0.). Carriages changed at Mellerud. From Christiania to Gothenburg
one through-train daily (with through-carriages) in 13'/4 hrs. (fares 22 kr.
12 0., 13 kr. 25 0.).

The railway-journey is on the whole tame and uninteresting, so that
were it not for the Trollhatla Falls (p. 291) the preference should be given
to the steamboat. Between Ed and Mellerud-Sunnana the train may be
quitted for the Dalslands Canal (see p. 279). Travellers who mean to pass
the night at Fredrikshald are recommended to visit Moss, Fredrikstad,
and the "Sarpsfos on the way, going on in each case by the next train.
Steamers run daily from Moss, Fredrikstad , and Fredrikshald to Gothen-
burg. Travellers in the reverse direction are recommended to leave the
railway at Moss and take one of the local steamers thence to Christiania,
the approach to which by water is particularly fine.

Christiania, see p. 1. The train describes a curve round the
suburb of Oslo and skirts the base of the Ekeberg (p. 12), affording
a fine retrospect of the town. From (4 Kil.) Bakkelaget we have a
good view of the islands in the Ormsund, with their villas. The
train then skirts the Bundefjord, passing the country-residences of
numerous Christiania merchants. 8 Kil. Lian. The train now as-
cends to (18 Kil.) Oppegaard (320 ft.). To the right is Nasodden, a
large peninsula separating the Christiania Fjord from the Bunde-
fjord. — 24 Kil. Ski (420 ft.).

From Ski to Sarpsbobg , 80 Kil. (50 Engl. M.) , by the '/Jstre linie'
(uninteresting). — 6 Kil. Kraakstad; 13 Kil. Tomter; 20 Kil. Spydeberg. The
line then crosses the broad Qlommen, on a handsome bridge, to (29 Kil.)
Askim, with nickel-mines. 35 Kil. Slitu; 39 Kil. Mysen; 44 Kil. Eidsberg;
54 Kil. Rakkestad; 61 Kil. Gautistad; 72 Kil. Ise. The train then runs
along the Nipen , and crossing the Glommen by the bridge mentioned at
p. 278, reaches (80 Kil.) Sarpsborg (see p. 277).

Near Aas is an agriculturul school. Beyond Vestby we reach
(48 Kil.) Soner, the station for the small timber-trading town of
Holm, on the river of that name, and Soon (p. 37), on the Christi-
ania Fjord, a steamboat-station and sea-bathing place. The train
now descends to the fjord and skirts the bank of the picturesque
Mossesund, the strait between Moss and the Gjelle. See Map, p. 10.

60 Kil. (37 Engl. M.) Moss, see p. 37. The station is on the
S. side of the town, near the sea-baths.

Steamers ply between Christiania and Moss several times daily, tak-
ing 4 hrs. to the trip. A great part of the course of these steamers lies
between the Gjelle and the mainland.

The next stations are Hilling, Rygge, and Raade. Beyond
Onse the train crosses the Kjelberg - Elv, passes through a short
tunnel, and soons stops at —

SARPSBORG. 33. Route. 277

94 Kil. (58 M.J Fredrikstad (Rail. Restaurant; Bertha Stor-
moeris Hotel, */4 M. from the railway-station, well spoken of;
*Olseris Hotel, Isachserfs, both more than 1 M. from the station),
a town with 11,200 inhab., and a place of considerable importance
owing to its situation at the mouth of the Glommen, Norway's larg-
est river (350 Engl. M. long), on which the timber of the Qsterdal,
the most richly wooded district in Norway, is floated down to the
sea. All the timber was originally exported hence in logs or planks,
but much of it is now manufactured on the spot into doors, window-
frames, etc., which are largely exported to Germany, Holland, and
France. The river here is broad and deep. It is crossed by a steam-
ferry. The busiest part of the town is the so-called Forstad, on the
W. bank of the river, which contains the railway-station, a large
new church, a theatre, and the 'Forlystelsehus Valhalla', the last
a popular place of amusement. The old town on the left bank
was founded by King Frederick II. in 1570, and was once strongly
fortified.

On the Torsekile {Kile, 'bay'), 7 Kil. to the E. of Fredrikstad, and
6 Kil. to the S. of Sannesund, lies Hundebunden , a pleasant sea-bathing
place, also called the Tortakile Baths. About 10 Kil. to the W. of Fred-
rikstad is the Harike Kystsanatorium (three hotels and numerous villas;
'pens.1 120 kr. per month), which has daily steamboat -communication
with Christiania (6 hrs.) and Fredrikstad (1 hr.)

Beyond Fredrikstad the train passes on the left some curiously
worn rocks and a few isolated houses. It then crosses an arm of
the Glommen and describes a wide curve towards the W- The
banks of the Glommen here are covered with saw-mills, timber-
yards, and brick-fields. 103 Kil. Greaker. The train now quits the
Glommen. 106 Kil. Sannesund, Y2Engl. M. from the village of
that name which serves as the port of Sarpsborg, with the quay for
the steamers to Fredrikshald.

109 Kil. (67 M.) Sarpsborg (Railway Restaurant; Aarland's
Hotel, well spoken of, moderate charges; Kristiame^s Hotel, R.
2 kr.), a small town with 2800 inhab., on the left bank of the
Glommen, founded in 1840 on the site of an ancient town, which
had been destroyed in 1567. To the N. of the town the river forms
the lake of Olengshelen, and to the S.E. the magnificent waterfall
of *Sarpsfos. A delay of a few hours is enough to visit the fall,
which we may reach in 25 min. from the railway-station, either
by proceeding through the town, or by turning immediately to the
S.E., and regaining the high-road by a pathway farther on. The
river pours its vast volume of water over a ledge of rock 140 ft. in
width to a depth of 74 ft., while the water above and below the
fall is 25-30 ft. deep. The scene is very imposing, particularly
in May and June, when the river is in flood. As usual, a number
of saw-mills and manufactories have been established on the brink
of the thundering waters. The fall is crossed by a Suspension
Bridge, constructed in 1854, borne by four piers, and above it is

278 Route 33. FREDRIKSHALD. From Christiania

the new railway-bridge (see below). It is interesting to watch the
timber shooting over the fall. On the E. bank there is a channel
('Temmerrende') for the descent of the sawn wood. The gallery
here (not very secure-looking) affords the best **View of the fall,
which probably surpasses the Trollhatta in height and volume.
It is, however, advisable to descend to the bank and walk as far as
the last house, whence the fall is seen in its full extent. The
Salmon Ladder should also be noticed. In the winter of 1702 a
portion of the right bank , 2000 ft. long and 1200 ft. broad, on
which lay a large farm-house, having been gradually undermined
by the action of the water, was precipitated into the waterfall , a
catastrophe which caused the death of fourteen persons and about
200 cattle. — From Sarpsborg to Ski, see p. 276.

The train now crosses the Glommen by a lofty bridge, com-
manding a view of the Sarpsfos to the right. 119 Kil. Skjeberg
(128 ft), situated in a marshy hollow; 131 Kil. Berg (230ft.).
The scenery here is tame and monotonous, woods and patches of
arable land (Smaa-Lene) alternating with marshes and meadows.
Farther on the train passes through several tunnels and reaches the
Idde fjord. Stations Rmmmen and Red. To the left rises a wall of
rock. "We cross the Tistedals-Elv and soon reach —

136 Kil. (84M.) Fredrikshald. —Hotels. 'ScHuLTz'sHoTELffl.b;
D, 3), Kirkestrsede, R. 2 kr. 40, B. 80 6., German landlord ; Jernbahe
Hotel (PI. a; D, 3), at the railway-station, well spoken of; Svea Hotel,
less conveniently situated.

Steamers to Stromstad (p. 282), Gothenburg , and Christiania (daily
except Sun.), see R. 34. A steamer also plies to Ski (p. 276). — The as-
cent of the Fredrikssten (there and back) takes about l'/s hr., including
the excursion to Wein 3 hrs. (carr. 7 kr.).

Fredrikshald, an old town, rebuilt after a fire in 1826, is
picturesquely situated on both banks of the Tistedals-Elv, which
here enters the Iddefjord. It is an important commercial place and
one of the centres of the timber traffic of the E. districts of Nor-
way and the adjoining parts of Sweden. On the S.E. it is com-
manded by the once important fortress of Fredrikssten. The town
contains 11,200 inhab., including numerous wealthy merchants,
whose handsome villas line the bank of the fjord.

Fredrikshald owes its name and its fortress to the bravery with
which the inhabitants repelled the attacks of the Swedes in 1668 , 1659,
and 1660, in consequence of which Frederick II. exchanged its old name
of Halden for the present form. The Swedes under Charles XII. again
attacked the town in 1716, but were again unsuccessful, chiefly owing to
the gallantry of the brothers Peder and Hans Kolbjenisen. In 1718
Charles XII. besieged Fredrikshald a second time, but was shot in the
trenches at the back of the fortress of Fredrikssten on 11th Dec. of that
year, whereupon the siege was raised by his army.

A picturesque *Walk may be taken along the harbour(Pl. C, 4),
commanding a fine view of the Fredrikssten and of the wooded islet
of Sauge, to which we may row in a small boat (10 6.). Crossing
the island through a narrow ravine we gain on the other side
(10 min.) a beautiful view of the fjord and the island of Brate.

:o£<efli. Anstalt von

"Warner ADebesIsipsig

to Gothenburg. DALSLANDS CANAL. 33. Route. 279

From the market-place (Torvet; PI. C, D, 3), where an un-
pretending monument has been erected in commemoration of the
bravery of the brothers Kolbjmnsen, we ascend by a broad road,
commanding a series of beautiful views, to the fortress of Fred-
riksstbn (370 ft. ; PI. E, 3, 4; free admission). Inside the gate,
to the left, is the *Brandbatteri (PI. 11 ; E, 4), with a flag-staff and
some guns, commanding a fine view of the town and harbour. A
good view is also obtained from the Klokketaarnet. To the S. and
S.E. lie the forts of Overbjerg, Stortaarnet, and Gyldenleve. From
the E. gate of the fortress a road leads to the left to (5 min.) the
Commandant Park, a well laid out promenade enclosed by a white
railing, and to the Monument of Charles XII., erected in 1860 on
the spot where that monarch fell in 1718. It consists of a cast-iron
pyramid with an inscription by Tegner, to the effect that the hero,
'alike in fortune and misfortune, was the master of his fate, and
unable to flinch could but fall at his post'.

In returning we choose the road a few paces to the S. of the
Commandant Park, and after 6-8 min. follow the broader road to
the left (to 'Risum' ; PI. F, 4). In 5 min. more we reach a sign-
post pointing to the left to the Skonningsfos. 9 min. Bridge over
theTistedals-Elv, affording a view of the chateau of Wein (upstream).
We now ascend gradually along the road on the left bank to (V2 hr.)
the Tistedal, a valley containing a succession of picturesque
waterfalls and several mills and manufactories. "We then cross the
bridge to the left and reach (10 min.) the high-lying yellow country-
house of Wein (pron. 'Vane'), which commands a view of the
Femsje (p. 280) and of the Tistedal, extending down to Frediiks-
hald. We then retrace our steps to (8 min.) a point near the
church and follow the valley, keeping to the right, to (35-40 min.)
the Skonningsfos Bridge, from which 20 min. more bring us to
Peder Kolbjernsen' s Park (PI. D, E, 2).

To the W. of Fredrikshald lie the beautiful park and villa of
Red (PI. A, 2), the former open to the public (view).

The Steamboat Voyage fkom Fredrikshald to Venersboro by the
Dalslands Canal (c. 160 Kil. or 100 Engl. M. ; thrice weekly, in 2 days) is
now comparatively seldom made since the opening of the railway described
in E. 37. Travellers, however, who desire to see a little of the Swedish
canal system are recommended to choose this route from Ed to Sunnana.
The steamer 'Laxen' is small but comfortable.

The Dalslands Canal was constructed in 1863-68 by Baron Nils Ericson
(brother of the 'caloric'' engineer John Ericson), at a cost of l'/s million
kr. Its locks and sluices are among the greatest triumphs of engineer-
ing skill in Sweden. The scenery through which the canal passes is
pleasing, though not grand.

A short branch - railway runs from Fredrikshald to Ed and to the
'Lastplats' Lee, on the W. bank of the Stora Lee (330 ft.), a narrow lake
35 Engl. M. in length. We now embark on the canal steamer, which
first steers to the N. to Foxen, as the N. end of the Stora Lee is called,
and then to the S. to Trankils-Kyrha and Lenmarts/ors, a waterfall which
it passes by means of three locks. It then enters Leelangen (305 ft.), a
lake 30 Engl. M. long. Near Gustafsfors, a station on the E. bank half-
way down the lake, another canal diverges to the Vealra and Ostra Silen

280 Route 33. MON. From Christiania

lakes, to which a steamboat usually plies weekly. At the S.E. end of
Leelangen we pass through the two locks of —

Bengtfors (Gastgifvaregarden), where the steamers in the opposite
direction spend the night. The steamer now descends what may be termed
a staircase of five locks to (6 Engl. M., while the traveller may walk) —

Billingsfors (Gastgifvaregarden), where the steamer spends the night
(7'/4 hrs. from Strand). Billingsfors is prettily situated, and the neigh-
bouring Kasberg commands a fine view.

We now enter the Laxen-Sjo (245 ft.), on the E. bank of which lies
Baldersnds , a charming country-house belonging to Hr. Warn, a mer-
chant of Gothenburg , with pleasant grounds , hothouses , etc. (curious
grottoes in the limestone-rock). — Six more hocks next descend to Ra-
varpen (192 ft.), and another at Katrineholm to Aklangen (185 ft.), a narrow
lake with wooded banks, at the S.E. end of which we reach —

"Hafverud (Inn), the most striking point on the canal. Great en-
gineering difficulties had to be overcome here by Ericson's genius. As
the loose nature of the soil on one bank and the rocks on the other
rendered it practically impossible to construct a canal adjoining the river
here, Ericson conceived the bold plan of throwing an aqueduct (105 ft.
long and 13 ft. wide) over the waterfall itself, and in the execution of
his plan he has been eminently successful. The scenery at this point
§ is also pleasing. While the vessel descends the four locks, the passenger
may land and ascend to a small Temple on the left (E.) bank, which affords
a fine view.

Below Hafverud are the two holjar of Ofre and Nedre Holn. (Holja,
a calm reach between two waterfalls.) Two locks descend thence to the
Upperudholja, beyond which the steamer traverses the Hjerteruds-Sund
and the Svanfjord. Lastly it descends through the largest of all the
locks to Kopmannabro (p. 364) on Lake Venern (155 ft.), and steers along
the W. bank of Lake Venern (about 3'/2 hrs. more) to —

Venersborg (9'/2brs. from Billingsfors). Thence to Gothenburg, see K. 37.

Soon after leaving Fredrikshald we have a view of a huge wall
of debris, penetrated by the Tistedals-Elv. The train then quits
the Tistedal (p. 279) by a short tunnel at (86y2 M.) Tistedalen,
and runs along an ancient moraine , resembling an artificial em-
bankment.

At (140 Kil. or 87 M.) Femsjeen we obtain a beautiful view of
the lake of that name (275 ft.), which is about 4 Engl. M. in length
and covered with timber-rafts. The Femsjtf is connected with the
large Aspem (340 ft.), the Aremarks-Sje, the J&demarks-Sje, the
0rje-Sje, and other high-lying lakes by canals constructed to facil-
itate the timber traffic. A small steamboat ('Turisten') plies thrice
weekly to Skullerud (a pleasant though seldom made trip). The
fortress of Fredrikssten is visible to the "W. for a short time. The
train passes through several tunnels. Glimpse to the right of part
of the fjord of Fredrikshald. Beyond (150 Kil.) Aspedammen, to
the left, a view is obtained of the 0rsj#. Large stacks of timber
are passed near (158 Kil.) Prastebakke, beyond which we enter a
thickly wooded district. 167 Kil. Kornse (475 ft.) is the last Nor-
wegian station.

The line now crosses the Swedish frontier. The district, which
is almost uninhabited, is marked by the traces of numerous forest
conflagrations. At (177 Kil. or 110 M.) Mon (Rail. Restaurant,
D. II/2 kr. ; comp. p. xx), the first station hi Sweden, the custom-

to Gothenburg. MELLERUD. 33. Route. 281

house examination takes place (comp. p. 311). Beyond Mon the
train traverses a large and bleak heath, surrounded by barren hills.
185 Kil. Hokedalen.

189 Kil. (117 M.) Ed (*Rail. Restaurant), picturesquely situated
above the Stora Lee. The through-train in the reverse direction
arrives here at the same hour, and time is allowed here for dinner.
Close to the railway-station is a small monument to John Ericson,
the engineer (d. 1889). A few paces farther on we obtain a fine view
of the lake. — A short branch -line runs hence to (3 Kil.) the
'Lastplats' Lee, the terminus of the steamers on the Dalslands
Canal (see p. 279).

The district beyond Ed abounds in marshes, and the scenery is
monotonous. 207 Kil. Backefors. The train traverses a tunnel,
passes the Tiakersjo on the right, and reaches (217 Kil.) Dalskog.
Farther on we pass, on the left, Lake Venem and the small cha-
lybeate baths of Rastok.

233 Kil. (145 M.) Mellerud, the junction of the Bergslagsbana
(R. 49) and of the line to (3 Kil.) Sunnana on Lake Venern. —
From Mellerud to (356 Kil. or 221 M.) Gothenburg, see R. 49.

34. From Christiania to Gothenburg by Sea.

325 Kil. (201 Engl. M.). Steamboats. The paddle -steamers Chris-
tiania and M. G. Melchior ply once or twice weekly, and the Swedish
steamers Sedra Sverige and Skandia ply weekly (leaving Christiania on
Wed. afternoon and Gothenburg on Sun. afternoon) from Christiania
direct to Gothenburg in 14 hrs. Their course lies outside the island-belt,
and the sea is apt to be somewhat rough. Travellers who are inclined
to sea-sickness may therefore prefer one of the slower boats, Oscar Dickson,
Albert Bhrensvdrd, or Uddevalla. which perform most of the voyage in-
denskoers, or within the island-belt, taking 24-30 hrs. on the way. They
leave Christiania on Tues., Thurs., & Frid. evenings and Sat. afternoon,
and Gothenburg on Sun., Wed., Thurs., & Frid. mornings. The chief
intermediate stations are Stromstad (whence local boats also ply several
times weekly to Fredrikshald), Orebbestad, Fjellbacka, Lysekil, and Mar-
strand. Comp. Norges Communicationer, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 5, 7. The mouth of
the Christiania Fjord is very beautiful, but is unfortunately passed at
night by most of the steamers leaving Christiania.

After the beautiful Fjord of Christiania is left behind, the coast
scenery on this route is uninteresting, especially to those who have
seen that of Norway, but the climate here is said to be unusually
healthy, and the sea-bathing places are much frequented in sum-
mer. The water is much salter and purer than in the recesses
of the long Norwegian fjords. At some of the watering-places there
are also mud-baths (gyttjabad). The inhabitants are chiefly fish-
ermen, descendants of the ancient vikings, who have left represen-
tations of their exploits in the 'Hellerfstningar' which are still to
be seen in the parish of Tanum near Grebbestad, at Brastad near
Lysekil, and elsewhere. At many points on the coast there are still
remains of ancient castles, tombs, stone chambers (valar), and mon-
uments (bautastenar), so that this region (Bohuslan) is justly

282 Route 34. STROMSTAD. From Christiania

regarded as one of the cradles of the early sagas of the North. The
fishermen are not ^infrequently prosperous and wealthy, especially
those of Smogen. The cod, herring, lobster, and oyster fisheries
are the most important. Windmills crown almost every small
eminence. The thousands of islands through which the steamer
threads its course are little more than bare rocks.

The *Fjord op Christiania down to Moss is described in
R. 5. Below Moss the fjord gradually widens, and the scenery
becomes less interesting. At the mouth of the fjord the steamer
steers to the E. into the picturesque fjord of Fredrikstad (see p. 277).
— It then passes the Hvaleer on the right (on the largest the
watering-place of Kirke) and the Singeleer on the left, and enters
the Svinesund, a long , narrow fjord, on a bay of which (the Idde-
fjord) lies —

Fredrikshald, commanded by the fortress of Fredrikssten (see
p. 278). After calling at Fredrikshald the steamer descends the
Svinesund, which here forms the boundary between Sweden and
Norway, again passing the Hvaleer on the right.

The first Swedish station is Stromstad (Gastgifvaregard,
Stadshotel, each with restaurant ; private apartments also procur-
able) , a town with 2350 inhab. , and a favourite watering-
place, situated at the efflux of the Stromsa from the Stromsvatn.
The badgyttja ('bath-mud'), which possesses sanitary properties, is
obtained from the Boijarvik, to the N. of the town, near the
mineral spring Lejonkallan. In the environs are numerous caverns
fbergsgrottor ; the largest of which is Osterrodshalan) and giant
cauldrons (jattegryttor), which have been formed partly by the
action of water and partly by that of ancient glaciers. Stromstad is
a great depot of oysters and lobsters.

Beyond Stromstad the steamer steers through the narrow
Harstensund, with the mainland on the left and the islands on the
right. To the right we observe the Nordkosters Dubbelfyr (light-
house). Near Orebbestad was fought the battle of Greby , where
there are numerous tombstones.

A road leads hence to Tanum (Helleristninger , p. 281), the Bullare
Xjoarne (two long, narrow lakes), Ostad (*Inn) , Ho} setter, Ejde Bratta (755 ft.),
and Stromstad (see above). From Hofsater we may drive to Barby, in Nor-
way, whence a steamer plies to Fredrikshald.

The next station is Fjellbacka, with 800 inhab. , the central
point of the Swedish anchovy-trade, curiously situated at the foot
of a precipitous wall of rock. The rock is penetrated by the Ram-
melklava or Djefvulsklava, a narrow cleft, near the top of which
are several large stones wedged in between the opposing sides.
The traveller may walk to the end of this singular gorge. To the
W. are the Vaderoar and the Vaderbodsfyr. "We now enter the
Sotefjord, with its numerous sunken rocks (blindskar). On the
peninsula of Sotenas to the left are the fishing- villages and bathing-
places Smogen, Grafvema, and Tangen, beyond which is the

to Gothenburg. MARSTRAND. 34. Route. 283

Malmo , inhabited by the Malmopyttar or Malmbbam , a small
and peculiar race, supposed to be a remnant of the aboriginal Fin-
nish population of Sweden. About 4 M. from Fjallbacka is —

Lysekil (*H6tel Bergfalk ; StoraBadhuset), a favourite watering-
place, with 1750 inhab., lying on the S. extremity of the long
peninsula of Stangenas, to the E. of which is the Bokenas. Between
these peninsulas lies the Gullmarsfjord, extending to the N.E. to
Saltkallan, a little beyond -which lies Qvistrum, a prettily situated
place. In spite of its almost total want of shade Lysekil surpasses
even Marstrand in popularity as a sea-bathing resort. The bathing
arrangements are good, and there are numerous tasteful villas.
Fine sailing-boats for hire at 1 kr. per hour.

Beyond Lysekil some of the smaller coasting steamers take the
inner course (Hnre vageri) , passing through the Svanesund and
between the islands of Orust and Tjom and the [mainland. On
their way they touch at Uddevalla (p. 293), Stenungso (pleasant
excursion hence to the lake of Hallungen and the rising town of
Ljungskile~), and several other small, watering-places.

Most of the steamers, however, take the outer course ('ytre
vageri), steering to the W. of the islands of Skaftoland, Orust,
and Tjom. In Skaftoland are Fiskebackskil and Grundsund, in-
habited by fishermen and seafaring men. The next station is Gull-
holmen on the Hermano. Farther on are seen the red houses and
church of Mollosund, on the island of Orust. The rocks are cov-
ered with Klipf.sk (p. 245). The large steamers now pass through
the Kirkesund, the smaller through the Albrektssund. Between
Lysekil and Marstrand are the large lighthouses Maskars Fyr in
Orust, to the "W. of Mollosund, and Hamnskars Fyr, near the
dangerous Paternoster Skar, to the N. of Marstrand. Several other
ligthhouses are also passed on this voyage, and every harbour has
its distinguishing beacon. About 4y2 sea-miles from Lysekil, we
next reach —

Marstrand (Stads-Hotellet), a town with 1400inhab., on the E.
side of a small island , visited by about 2000 sea-bathers an-
nually. The handsome church of St. Mary dates from 1460. The
sea here is generally calm, being protected by the island-belt, and
the water is strong and bracing owing to the large quantity of salt
it contains. The mild climate has gained for Marstrand the name
of the 'Swedish Madeira'. Opposite the town, to the W., rises the
fortress of Karlsten, the 'Gibraltar of the North'. To the N. is the
Koo, with the small bathing-place of Arvidsvik. Small steamers
ply regularly between Marstrand and Gothenburg. — About 2J/4 M.
farther S. the steamboat reaches the mouth of the Gbta-Elf, which
it now ascends to —

Gothenburg, see R. 35.

284

35. Gothenburg.

Comp. the Plan, p. 290.

Arrival. The large sea-going steamers land at the Skeppsbron or at
the Stora Bommens Hamn (PI. F, |2), the canal steamers at the Lilla
Bommens Hamn (PI. G, 1), both at some distance from the hotels. Comp.
Sveriges Kommunikationer, where under 'Goteborg' a complete list is given
of the steamers sailing 'Norrut, Osterut, Soderut, and Vesterut'. Hotel-
omnibuses (75 6.) and cabs (see below) meet the steamers. The Stockholm
Railway Station (PI. H, 1, 2) is quite close tn the hotels, so that it is
needless to take the omnibus. The station of the Bergslags Bana (PI. H, 1 ;
RR. 36, 48) is a little farther off.

Hotels. *Haglund's Hotel & GiiTA Kallake (PI a ; H, 2), in the Sodra
Hamngata, two separate houses, R. from I1/2 kr., meals A la carte;
"Chbistiania. (PI. b; H, 2), Drottning-Torget 4, R. from 2 kr. — Royal
(PI. c ; H, 2), Ostra Langgatan 8 ; Hotel Kung Kael (PI. d ; H, 2), Kopmans-
gatan 54. — s:H6tel Kakl XV. (Den Femtonde ; PI. d ; H, 2), Kopmansgatan,
near the station, unpretending.

Restaurants. At the above-mentioned hotels; "Borsen, Gustaf-Adolfs-
Torg; " Frimurarelogen, Sodra Hamngatan 31; Hinriksberg, at Stigbergs-
liden (PI. C, 3), with view of the harbour. — Cafes (Schweitzerier): Bor-
sen, see above; at the "Tradgardsforening, p. 286; Lehnard't Cafe' (and
confectioner's), Sodra Hamngatan 59.

The Gothenburg Licensing System, which has given rise to so much
controversy, has been in operation here for many years and is said to
have worked well. It is at least certain that drunkenness has diminished
greatly of late years. The system was also introduced at Stockholm in
October, 1877, and the results are said to have been beneficial. The
leading features of the system of licensing, or rather of non-licensing, are
that a company is empowered to buy up all licenses and existing rights,
and to open a limited number of shops for the sale of pure and unadul-
terated spirits, the salaried managers of which have no interest whatever
in the sale of the spirits. The company, which is under the supervision
of the municipality, after deducting interest at the rate of 5 per cent on
the capital expended, hands over the whole of the surplus profits to the
civic authorities, thus affording very substantial relief to the rate-payers,
and to some extent throwing the burden of maintaining the poor upon
those who impoverish themselves by their own intemperance.

Post Office (PI. 23; F, 2), Skeppsbronn; branch-offices at Kopmans-
gatan 52 and Majorna Huset 67. Telegraph Office, in the Museum (PI. 27;
G, 2), Norra Hamngatan 12.

British Consul, John Duff, Esq. — United States Consul, E. A. Man, Esq.

Money Changers. Riksbanken, Sodra Hamngatan 27 ; Gbteborgs Enskilda
Bank, Drottninggatan 11 ; Skandinavisk Bank, Vestra Hamngatan 6 ; John
Odell, Franskatomten, by the Skeppsbro; G. W. Schroder, Brbderna Larson,
both in the Norra Hamngatan.

Cabs (Droskor). Per drive within the town, 1-2 pers. 75 6., 3-4 pers.
1 kr. ; longer drive 174-33,'4 kr. ; to the Slottsskogs-Park 13A or 2l/t kr. —
For one hour 1-2 pers. l'/a kr., 3-4 pers. 2 kr. ; each additional l/t hr.
60 or 75 6. — Each large article of luggage 10 ii.

Tramways from the Brunns-Park (PI. 15; G, 2) to Stigbergsliden (PI.
C, 3), to the entrance of the Slottsskogs-Park (PI. E, 5), past the Theatre
and the Tradgardsforening to the Lorensberg (PI. H, 4) and on to Getebergs-
cing, and through the Stampgatan to Redbergslid. Fare in each case 10 6.

Steamboats ply from Gothenburg to Christiania , Fredrikshavn, Copen-
hagen, Hamburg, London (weekly), Hull (weekly), Edinburgh (fortnightly),
etc. For details, see Sveriges Kommunikationer. — Small steam-launches
(Angslupar) also ply frequently from Skeppsbron (PI. E, F, 2) to Klippan
(every ^1/2 lir.), Majorna (every >/« hr.), Nya Varfvet (hourly), Nya Elfsborg
and Langedrag, Bratten, and Stjernvik (sea-baths).

Sea Baths at Langedrag (pleasant excursion by steam-launch, see above;
'Kallbad' 75 o., 'Varmbad1 1 kr. ; Caft- Miramar) and at Stjernvik (see above).

GOTHENBURG. 35. Route. 285

Kiver Baths by the Hisingbro (PI. G, 1). Warm Baths in the Renstriimska
Badanstall (PI. 25; F, 2).

English Church in the Rosenlundsgata (reached by the Ekelundsgata
from the W. end of the S. Hamngata).

Favourite Resorts. Trddgardsforeningen (p. 286; music in the even-
ing), adm. 10 o. ; Lorensberg (PI. H, 4), with a bust of Wadman, the poet,
by Molin, adm. 25 6. ; Slottsskogs- Park, p. 287. A Sunday 'Lusttur1 to the
'■Skjccre' (Lysekil , p. 283) is interesting for the view it affords of the
pleasures of the people; comp. the newspapers for Saturday.

Gothenburg (57° 42' N. lat.), Swed. Gbteborg (pron. Yoteborg),
a busy and prosperous commercial city, with 90,000 inhab., lies
on the Qbtaelf, about 5 Engl. M. from its mouth, and possesses
an excellent harbour, which is rarely closed by ice. The wide
plain surrounding the town, though diversified with a few barren
gneiss hills, is unattractive. The town itself presents a remarkably
handsome and pleasing appearance, for which it is largely indebted
to the enterprise and public spirit of the wealthier inhabitants. The
suburbs of Gullbergs Vass and Stampen to the E. , Haga, Albosta-
den, and Annedal to the S. and S.W., and Masthugget, Majorna,
and Nya Varfvet to the W. now form part of the town.

Gothenburg is quite a modern place , having been founded in
1619, and it is to the Dutch settlers of that period (including the
wealthy Abraham Cabeliou) that it owes the peculiar form of its
streets and canals. The first great impulse to its commerce was
given by the great continental blockade (1806) , during which it
formed the chief depot of the English trade with the north of
Europe. The principal foreign merchants now resident here are
Scottish and German. The principal manufactures are cotton, ma-
chinery, and sugar. The numerous breweries and the ship-build-
ing wharfs are also conspicuous features.

The business-centre of the town , about equidistant (8 min.)
from the railway-station and the principal steamboat-quay, is the
Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg (PI. G, 2), on the N. side of which rises the
Bors (PI. 14), or Exchange, the finest edifice in Gothenburg,
erected in the Renaissance style in 1849, and embellished with
twelve cast-iron columns in front. To the W. of it is the Radhus
(PI. 24) , or Town Hall, designed by Nic. Tessin , and built in
1670, but afterwards considerably altered. Behind it rises the
German Christina-Kyrka (PI. 8). The centre of the Torg is em-
bellished with a Statue of Gustavus Adolphus (PI. 16), the founder
of Gothenburg, designed by Fogelberg. This was the second
statue cast from the same model. The first was wrecked when on
its way from Hamburg to Gothenburg, and was recovered by sail-
ors of Heligoland , who claimed so exorbitant a sum for salvage
that the Gothenburgers refused to pay it, and preferred ordering
the statue to be executed anew (1854). The original statue now
adorns the Domsheide at Bremen.

At the S.E. angle of the Torg is the junction of the Stora-
Hamn-Kanal and the Ostra-Hnmn-Kanal, the two most important

286 Route 35. GOTHENBURG. Museum.

of the canals intersecting the town. The former is flanked -with
the handsome quays called the Norra and the Sodra Stora Hamn-
gata. — In the angle formed by these two canals lies the Brunns-
Park (PI. 15 ; G, 2), with pretty grounds, a handsome new foun-
tain, and an establishment for warm baths.

At Norra Stora Hamngatan 12, in the building of the old East
India Company, is the Gtiteborgs Museum (PI. 20 ; G , 2) , a
meritorious collection of pictures, natural history specimens, histor-
ical relics, and industrial objects (admission on week-days 10-2.30
and 4-6, and on Sundays, 12-3; fee 25 »., free on Wed., Frid., &
Sun.).

The Natukal Histoet Collection includes admirable specimens of
most of the fauna of Scandinavia, among the most conspicuous being
a fine eland (Fig) and a whale. A collection of plaster masks of dis-
tinguished men and notorious criminals is also shown here. — Upstairs
are the Pictures (Taflor), the best of which are: Tidemand, Bear-hunters,
Rustic visitors ; Oude, Landscape; Mtiller, The Sognefjord; D'Unker, Wait-
ing-room, Dressing-room; Hellqvist, Louis XI.; Forsberg , Rope-dancers.
Here also is a marble group of Cupid and Psyche, by Fogelberg and Molin.

A few paces to the W. of the Museum is the Harbour, with the
/Stora Bommens Hamn (PI. F, 2), the landing-place of the large
steamers. Close to this point is the Post Office (PI. 23), opposite
the Custom House. On an elevation to the right stands the School
of Navigation (PI. 21 ; G, 1). A little farther on are the Prison and
the Lilla Bommens Hamn (PI. G, 1), the landing-place of the local
steamers.

To the S. of the Stora Hamn Canal, near the harbour, is the
LandshSfdingsresidenset (PI. 26 ; F, 2), or residence of the governor
of the district. We then traverse the Stora Badhusgatan and ascend
a flight of stone steps to the left, at the head of which we turn to
the right to the top of the rocky Stora Otter-Halleberget (PI. F, 2),
which commands a good view of the town and harbour. To the S.,
on another hill, is the Artillery Station (PI. 12), beyond which is
the entrenchment of Kronan. To the W. is the Skeppsbro (PI. E,
F, 2), a long quay from which the steam-launches start. At the
S. end of the Skeppsbro is the Bosenlunds Canal (PI. E, 3), where
a number of fishing-boats from the Bohusldner Skar (islands of the
coast-district between Gothenburg and Stromstad) usually lie with
their cargoes of 'Klipflsk' caught and dried on the W. coast of Norway.

To the E. of this point the Sodra Stora Hamngata leads to the
Wallgraf ('moat') , to the left of which is the Stockholm Railway
Station (p. 284) in the Drottningtorg. Beyond the Wallgraf lies
the *Garden of the Horticultural Society (Trddgardsforeningens
Lokal ; PI. H, 2, 3), with its hothouses and exotic plants (restau-
rant; music in the evening; adm. 10 6., hothouses 25 6. extra).

On the S.W. side of the Wallgraf extends the pleasant Kungs
Park, intersected by the Nya Allee, adjoining which is the New
Theatre (PI. 22; G, 3), completed in 1850. In front of the theatre
is placed a replica of Molin's '*Baltespannare (p. 341). To the S.

Haga-Kyrka. GOTHENBURG. .35. Route. 287

runs the Nya Allee, with a number of handsome private residences,
including the villa of Mr. Oscar Dickson, so well known for his
energy and liberality in organising Arctic expeditions and initiat-
ing other public and philanthropic enterprises. The grounds, to
which visitors are admitted, contain some fine points of view. To
the S. of the Nya Allee are the Vasagatan, Engelbrektsgatan, and
other handsome new streets,

Farther on , on the left side of the Nya Allee, rises the Haga-
Kyrka (PI. 5; F, 4), the church of the suburb of that name, de-
signed by Edelsvard, and erected in 1856, a great part of the cost
having been defrayed by Mr. David Carnegie, a wealthy Scottish
brewer. We now turn to the S. (tramway), cross the Annedal, a
quarter inhabited by artizans , and reach the Slottsskogs - Park
(PL D, 6; cab, see p. 284), which deserves a visit. On the S.
side is a 'Schweitzeri' or cafe'. — In returning from the Slottsskogs-
Park we should make for the *Utsigtsplats (PI. D, 5). the northern-
most summit of the rocky ridge to the W. of the park (denoted by
a flag-staff). The extensive view affords a good idea of the rocky
character of the distr'ct. From the top a footpath leads to the N.
to the Masthuggstorget, on the W. side of which lies the Sjbmans-
hem, erected on the occasion of the Silver Wedding of the King
and Queen of Sweden. Close by is the tramway-terminus, and
near it the St. Johannis Kyrka (PI. 6), a few hundred paces beyond
which is the loftily situated restaurant of Hinriksberg, commanding
an admirable view, particularly by evening-light. Opposite lies
the island of Hisingen, enclosed by two branches of the Gotaelf
and containing Lindholmens Mekaniska Verkstad , where many of
the useful Swedish steam-launches are built. — To the W. of
Masthugget, on rising ground, is the suburb of Majoma, containing
the Karl Johans Kyrka (PI. 1), several extensive shipbuilding
yards, and the Porter Brewery and Sugar Factory of Mr. Carnegie.

Among the other churches of Gothenburg may be mentioned
the English Church (PI. 3 ; F 3), in the Rosenlunds-Gata, at the
S. end of the Kasernen-Torg, and the Roman Catholic St. Josephs-
Kapelle (PI. 7 ; G 1), in the Spanmalsgata.

To the S.E. of the town lies a quarter containing the numer-
ous pleasant-looking villas of the wealthy merchants of Gothen-
burg, which may be visited by carriage. Most of them lie on the
Danska Vagen, the prolongation of the Korsvagen (comp. PI. I, 4).
Many of the gardens and parks are open to the public.

The interesting New Cemetery ('Nya Begrafningsplatsen') con-
tains a monument to Bengt Fogelberg by Molin, that of Sven Ren-
strom by Scholander, etc. The Redbergslid tramway runs near it.

288

36. From Gothenburg to Helsingborg (Copenhagen).

243 Kil. (151 Engl. M.) Railway ( Vestkustbanan) in 61/4-U1/4 hrs.
(fares 17 kr. 5 6., 12 kr. 80 6., 8 kr. 55 o. ; express 18 kr. 25 6., 14 kr.
65 6., 9 kr. 80 6.).

The Steamers 'Kristiania', 'Dronning Lovisa', and 'Aarhus' ply direct
from Gothenburg to HeUingborg (and Copenhagen) four times weekly in
14-20 hrs. The 'Halland Steamers', which leave Gothenburg daily and
reach Copenhagen in about 30 hrs., call at Vorberg, Halrmtad, Helsingborg,
and Landskrona (p. 385). — The steamboat-course traverses the Kattegat,
or entrance to the Baltic Sea, which enjoys an ominous reputation for its
storms and currents. The current through it generally runs for 24 days
towards the S. and 10 days towards the N.

Gothenburg, see p. 284. The train crosses the Molndalsa by a
viaduct 660 yds. long and 16 ft. high and reaches Almedal and
(8 Kil.) Mblndal, two manufacturing places with cotton-spinning
and weaving mills. We then cross the Molndalsa and traverse a
marshy district. 18 Kil. Lindome; 23 Kil. Anneberg. Beyond
(28 Kil.) Kongsbacka, an unimportant town giving name to the
large Kongsbacka Fjord , we cross the Rolfsa, , the outlet of Lake
Lygnem, a high-lying mountain-lake to the E. Passing (36 Kil.)
Fjaras, the train next traverses the plain of Dufveheden, which is
protected from the inundations of Lake Lyngern by the deposits of
an old moraine (Fjaras bracka). We descend the valley, passing
the large villages of Tom and Torpa. On a peninsula to the right is
the old manor of Tjoloholm. The valleys ensconced between the bare
rocks bordering the fjord are fertile and carefully cultivated. 47 Kil.
Asa. 52 Kil. Frillesas; the village of this name lies 3 M. to the E.,
in the valley of the Loftaa. The line crosses the Loftaa and skirts
the Vendelsu Fjord. 60 Kil. Backa. — 64 Kil. (40 Engl. M.) As-
kloster, on the left bank of the Viskaa, which here flows into the
Klosterfjord and is crossed by the railway. Large peninsulas strstch
into the sea. To the right is the village of Arnas, on the site of the
trading-town of Aranas, which was destroyed by the Norwegians in
1265. The train crosses the Himlaa. The large island of Qetterb,
seen to the right, marks the end of the Skargard.

77 Kil. (48 Engl. M.) Varberg (Varberg's Hotel), an old town
with 4200 inhab., much visited for sea-bathing. To the W. (right)
rises the old castle, now used as a house of correction.

From Varberg to Boras (Herrljunga) , 85 Kil. (52'/2 Engl. M.) , rail-
way in 372-4y2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 10, 3 kr. 40 6.). The intermediate sta-
tions are unimportant. The last two , Viskafors and Rydboholm, possess
large cotton manufactories. For Boras, and the prolongation of the line
to join the main railway, see p. 294.

Beyond Varberg the train runs through a cutting in the Apels-
viksberg, passes several villages, and reaches (87 Kil.) Himle. To
the E. of (91 Kil.) Tuaaker are the villages of Jernmolle and Jem-
vike , with an iron mine known since the 12th century. 99 Kil.
Langas. To the right, near Lis, is the chateau of Lindhult, and
farther on is the church of Stafsinge. — 108 Kil. (67 Engl. M.)
Falkenberg, a town of 1800 inhab., with salmon-fisheries on the

HALMSTAD. 36. Route. 289

Atraa, which the train crosses. — 118 Kil. Hebery ; 122 Kil. Sloinge.
The train crosses the Susea, which receives the waters of the Stora
at the modern turreted chateau of Mostorp. The village of (127 Kil.)
Getinge lies on the opposite bank of the Stora. We now pass through
a fertile, well-wooded, and hilly country. To the left are the large
farms of Susegarden and Frollinge ; to the right the farm of Bararp
and the churches of Refvinge and Steninge. 131 Kil. Brannarp;
135 Kil. Harplinge; 140 Kil. Gullbrandstorp. "We now traverse a
sandy pine-grown district, with the large estate of Vapno.

151 Kil. (93!/2Engl. M.) Halmstad (Hotel Martenson; Svea),
with 9800 inhab., the seat of the governor of the province of Hal-
land, with an old church and an old castle, lies on the N. bank of
the Halmstadsbugt, at the mouth of the Nissan, which the railway
crosses by a handsome iron bridge. It is a centre of the 'Halrn-
stadslax', or salmon fishery.

Fkom Halmstad to Nassjo, 196 Kil. (122 Engl. M.), express in 6hrs.
(fares 16 kr. 70, 11 kr. 80, 9 kr. 80 o.), ordinary train in 11 hrs. (fares
12 kr. 75, 9 kr. 80, 7 kr. 88 6.). The train ascends the valley of the
Nissaa. 5 Kil. Sperlingsholm, an old estate of Baron Sperling , with a
modern chateau and a large park. Most of the other stations are unimpor-
tant. Some of them have large saw-mills. 115 Kil. Vernamo, with an
important annual fair. — 143 Kil. Skyllingaryd, with various factories. —
151 Kil. Gbtafors. — 196 Kil. Nassjo, see p. 306.

Beyond Halmstad we cross the Fyllea and reach (159 Kil.) Trbn-
ninge. 162 Kil. Eldsberga; 168 Kil. Genevad; 170 Kil. Veinge;
175 Kil. Laholm, an old town with 1600 inhab. on the Lagaa;
180 Kil. Vallberga. Near (184 Kil.) Skottorp are the estates of
Gamla and Nya Skottorp, where we cross the Smedjea, and Domes-
torp, where Charles XI. married Princess Ulrika Eleanor of Den-
mark in 1680. — The train now crosses the Sterna and quits the
province of Holland. — Beyond (191 Kil.) Bastad we ascend the
valley of the Sinarp. From (198 Kil.) Grefvie, which affords a good
view of the sea and the Kullen, we descend the Hallandsas, a dilu-
vial range of hills, 650 ft. in height, extending to the S.E. to
Skane , which is intersected by other chains of similar character.
These hills (Asar) consist chiefly of sand and loose stones, and are
either the huge moraines of primeval glaciers , or ancient sub-
marine deposits. — ' 204 Kil. Fbrslbf; 208 Kil. Barkakra.

213 Kil. Engelholmshamn , on the Bay of Skelderviken. To the
right lies the fishing-village of Skepparkroken.

216 Kil. (134 Engl. M.) Engelholm (Hotel Thor; Vega), a town
of 2100 inhab. on the Rbnna-A, with considerable fisheries and a
trade in grain. It is also a station on the railway to Landskrona
(p. 385). — "We now cross the Vegea, and reach (222 Kil.) Vege-
holm and (225 Kil.) Rbgle.

229 Kil. (142Engl. M.) Kattarp, the junction of the railway from
Astorp (p. 388) to Hoganas.

From Kattabp to Hoganas, 15 Kil. (9'/2 Engl. M.), railway in 3/« hr.
The intermediate stations are unimportant. — Hoganas (Zimmerdahl's Inn),
with coal-mines and a famous manufactory of pottery, is the best start-

Baedekek's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 19

290 Route 37. TROLLHATTAN. From Gothenburg

ing-point for a visit to the Promontory of Kullen , once probably an is-
land, which projects boldly into the Kattegat, separating it from the Skel-
dervik. From Hbganas the road leads by (5 Kil.) Krapperup, with a fine
chateau and park, and the fishing-village of (7 Kil. farther) Mblle (small
Inn at Capt. Corfitsan's), which may also be reached by the afternoon
steamer from Helsingborg. To the lighthouse (Kulla/yr) at the extremity
uf Kullen is 3 Kil. more. The best point of view is the Barelulle, a height
near Kockenhus, about 4 Kil. from Krapperup ; farther N. rises the highest
point of the promontory (615 ft.), less easily ascended.

Begond Kattarp the Kullen (see above) is visible to the "W. —
234 Kil. Odakra. We traverse a fertile but monotonous plain bound-
ed on the E. by the Soderas. As we approach Helsingborg we have
a view of the Sound.

243 Kil. (151 Engl. M.) Helsingborg, see p. 388.

37. From Gothenburg to Venersborg. Trollhatta
Falls. Lake Venern.

88 Kil. (55 Engl. M.). Railway ('Bergslagsbana1 to Oxnered and 'Udde-
valla-Herrljungabana' thence to Venersborg) in 3-3>/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 70,
3 kr. 40 b.). Return-tickets ('Tur och Retur') available for two days, are
issued at reduced rates, and on Sunday return-tickets for the day are
issued at a single fare.

A visit from Gothenburg to the Tkollhatta Falls and back may be
accomplished in one day. Those who are pressed for time may leave
Gothenburg by the morning train, and return, or continue their journey,
by the midday train. As, however, the view is most favourable by morn-
ing light it is customary to spend a night in the Trollhattan Hotel. Those
who can put up with a somewhat uncomfortable berth may make use of
the Stockholm Steamer on the Gota Canal, which starts on Tues., Thuis.,
and Sat. evenings. The voyage takes 6-7 hrs. (in the reverse direction
5 6 hrs). The traveller may either land at Akersvass and walk thence
to the Falls, or go on the whole way to Trollhatta.

The 'Bergslagsbana' at first ascends the wide valley of the Oota-
Elf, passing several unimportant stations. To the right lieB the
suburb of Stampen, to the left Gullbergs Vass, the old redoubt of
Lejonet, and the river. At the small station of Olskroken the Stock-
holm line diverges to the right (R. 38). At Surte we obtain a
view, to the left, of the large ruined castle of Bohus, which gives
its name to the whole of this district (Bohuslan), formerly a part of
Norway. Beyond (25 Kil. ) Nol the train quits the valley and ascends
to the right. The scenery is of the sparsely wooded nature char-
acteristic of W. Sweden. — 56 Kil. Vpphdrad. The view becomes
more open , and cultivated fields are passed. Beyond Velanda,
which is prettily situated, the Halleberg and Hunneberg (p. 293)
rise to the right.

72 Kil. (45 M.) Trollhattan. — The Railway Station is about
3/i Engl. M. from the town, with which it is connected by a road entirely
destitute of shade. Hotel-omnibus 50 6.

Hotels. "Jemvags Hotel, close to the station, convenient for travellers
with luggage going on to Stockholm or Christiania, R. 23/4 kr.; Bdlel
Trollhattan, near the falls, less favourably spoken of. As in summer the
hotels are often full, it is advisable to order rooms in advance. Rooms
may also be obtained at Fru Ringnir's.

A visit to the 'Waterfalls (guide superfluous unless the traveller's

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to Venersborg. TROLLHATTA FALLS. 37. Route. 291

time is exceedingly limited) and the Canal takes 2'/r3 hrs. ; the falls alone
*/4 hr. W0e descend past the falls by the path described below to the
locks of Akersvass; then ascend and follow the road skirting the canal
to the Mekanisk Verkslad. Thence we may either continue to follow the
road, or turn to the left and re-ascend past the falls. — The traveller's
patience will be severely tried by the numerous dealers in photographs
and other small objects.

Trollhattan, a small town with 4000 inhab. and a picturesque
Gothic church, consists almost entirely of manufactories, which avail
themselves of the motive power afforded by the falls (estimated at
225,000 horse-power), and of workmen's houses.

The falls are six in number, besides which there are several cataracts
and rapids, distributed over a distance of 1600 yds., and in all 108 ft. in
height. Neither the falls nor their adjuncts can be called picturesque,
and the effect of the principal falls is diminished by the islands in the
middle of the stream; but the enormous volume of water makes the
spectacle extremely imposing, and in this respect they are unsurpassed
in Europe. The interest is greatly enhanced by the skilfully constructed
series of locks and sluices on the left side of the river , which serve to
maintain uninterrupted communication by water between Gothenburg and
Lake Venern (Gota Canal, Stockholm; 6-7000 craft annually).

We cross the bridge over the N. end of the canal, near the
Hotel Trollhattan , and then follow the broad path to the right,
which passes a saw-mill , two small islands, and the old Ekeblads
Sluss, and leads to the Speko. From this point we have a view of
the Guild Falls , 23 ft. in height , divided into two parts by the
wooded island of Guild. We then return to the main path and
follow it towards the S., and beyond the next bridge turn to the
right and reach a Saw-mill, with a large stock of timber. We
pass through the yard of this mill to the island of Ona and cross
a small swaying bridge to the island of Toppo (25 6.). One person
only may cross this bridge at a time. The platform and the two
galleries passed on the left before we reach the bridge, and the is-
land of Toppo afford the best view of the ** Toppo Fall, 42 ft. in
height, by far the finest of the series. The island of Toppo separ-
ates the Toppo Fall proper from the Tjuf Fall ('thief fall') on the
W. The lower gallery projects over the principal fall, and affords
an admirable view of its boiling and foaming waters. The Skradda-
reklint, a rocky barrier formerly here, has been undermined and
carried away by the stream. We may then cross a bridge (50 6.)
from the island of Ona to the island of Guild (scarcely worth while)
and cross thence by a second bridge to the right bank, the paths
on which afford fine views. Higher up is the Villa Strdmsberg.

From Ona we now return to the saw - mill (see above) and
follow the path to the S. to the Kungsgrotta (on an island), one
half of a 'Giant's Cauldron' (p. 292), which is inscribed with the
names of numerous visitors. To the left is the old *Polhems
Sluss, constructed at the beginning of the 18th cent., in the reign
of Charles XII., but disused since 1755 (p. 292) The grotto com-
mands a fine view of the river. A new bridge over the Gota-Elf is
now under construction here.

19*

292 Route 37. TROLLHATTA FALLS. From. Gothenburg

We now descend slightly to the right to the *Stampestrorns Fallt
8 ft. in height, below which the river expands into the compara-
tively calm Hoijumsvarp. The opposite bank is here steep and rocky ;
at its foot is an apparatus for catching salmon.

Those who are satisfied with seeing the three main falls ascend
the flight of steps to the left of the Polhems Sluss, which receives
a small and picturesque waterfall, and return to the hotel by the
principal path, passing the Church on their way. Those who are
not fatigued are, however, recommended to take the footpath to the
right below the church, which leads through pine and fir woods,
passing an oil-mill ( Oljeslageri) on the left and the villa Djupa
Dalen on the right. Immediately beyond the latter, a few paces
to the left of the path, is an unusually symmetrical Jdttegryta, or
'Giant's Cauldron'. A finger-post ('Vag till Utsigten') beyond this
indicates the way to a Villa med Vtsigtstorn (25 6. ; Cafe), in which
photographs, maps, etc., are offered for sale at somewhat exorbitant
prices. The villa commands a view of the Helvetes Falls ('hell
falls') , 25 ft. in height, and of the Kopparklint. We next pass
the Mekanisk Verkstad, on the left and descend by a picturesque
path to the river, which here expands and forms the Oliden Alan.
We now skirt the river by the Dodens Gang to the Hjertatsudde,
whence we enjoy a retrospect of all the falls, the church, etc. The
pretty path ('Karlekens Stig') leads on, passing the Elfvi Sluss and
the Flottbergsstr'dm, to —

Akersvass, wUh its fine trees, fountains, and chalet. The eleven
new *Locks of Akersvass are among the most interesting structures
of the kind on the Gota Canal. They are adjoined by several old and
now disused locks. We may ascend on either bank , but the S.
bank, adjoining the new locks, is preferable. At the top wejeach
a Balcony, commanding a charming view, and the hamlet of Akers-
berg, on the Akerssjo, 2 Engl. M. from the Trollhattan Hotel.

The chief obstacle to the construction of the Gota Canal (comp. p. 302)
was presented by the formidable waterfalls and cataracts of Trollhattan;
and the first attempt to overcome the difficulty was made at the he-
ginning of the 18th cent, by the talented engineers Svedenborg and Pol-
hem, who proceeded to construct three locks (Ekeblads, Polhems, and
Eljvi Sluss), by means of which they hoped to enable vessels to pass
the waterfalls. In 1755, however, after several interruptions, the enter-
prise had to be abandoned, and these old locks now form a not unpic-
turesque ruin. In 1800 eight new locks were successfully constructed,
and are still in use, serving for the passage of small vessels ; but, as these
soon proved inadequate for the requirements of the shipping trade, eleven
new locks on a larger scale 0were formed by Ericson (p. 281) in 1836-44. All
these locks are situated at Akersvass, besides which there are two at Lilla
Edel and one at Akersstrom, below Trollhattan, and two more above it, at
Bririkebergs Kulle near Venersborg, where the waterfall of Rannum, 68 ft.
in height, has to be avoided. These immense locks, forming a kind of
staircase by means of which vessels are enabled to ascend and descend
with ease and safety between the North Sea and Lake Venern, 144 ft.
above it, form one of the principal objects of interest on the canal and
lake-route between Gothenburg and Stockholm. Comp. pp. 302, 303.

to Venersborg. LAKE VENERN. 37. Route. 293

Beyond Trollhattan the train crosses the Gota-Elf ,and reaches —

82 Kil. (51 M.) Oxnered (Hotel, adjoining the station), the
junction of the Bergslagsbana, which goes on to Mellerud, Kil, and
Falun (see p. 364), with the Uddevalla and Venersborg line. Pass-
engers for Venersborg change carriages here.

Feom Oxnered to Uddevalla, 23 Kil. (14>/z Engl. M.), in l'/4 hr. —
6 Kil. Grunnebo; 9 Kil. Ryr; 15 Kil. Engebacken.

23 Kil. Uddevalla (Uddevalla Hotel ; LiljewalcK's Hotel; Hotel Noyden),
a busy trading town, with 7500 inhab., prettily situated on tlie Byfjord.
Pleasant walks in the environs. The Skansberg is the best point of view.
The Kapellbackar (200 ft.), to the S., are famed for their fossils. In
the vicinity is Gustafsberg, a pleasant watering-place. — From Uddevalla
we may proceed by steamer to Gothenburg, or to the "8. to Striimstad
and Fredrikshald (p. 282). Comp. the 'Kommunikationer'.

If we do not catch a train from Oxnered to Venersborg (4 Kil.)
we may take a carriage. The railway and the road both cross the
Vassbotten, a small bay of Lake Venern.

84 Kil. (52Y2 M.) Venersborg (*Stadshuset ; Hotel Victoria), a
town with 5300 inhab., at the S. end of Lake Venern, lies at the
point where the Qbta-Elf emerges from the lake, and is entirely
surrounded with water. On the E. side are the lake and the river,
and on the W. side the Vassbotten, which the canal called the
Karlsgraf connects with the river. On the E. side the Gota-Elf is
crossed by the Bannurnsbro and an iron bridge over the Hufvud-
nas Fall; on the W. side the Dalbobro, a stone bridge, crosses the
lake to Dal; and towards the S. the Gropbro, constructed in 1642,
crosses the Karlsgraf. The town has frequently been burned down,
and now consists of unusually spacious streets. Extensive market-
place. The Kasan is a favourite pleasure-resort, with a theatre
and garden. No fewer than sixty steamboats maintain communi-
cation between Venersborg and Gothenburg, Stockholm, the towns
onLake Venern, and the canals diverging from the lake. Themostim-
portant of these, after the Gota Canal, is the DalslandsCanal(p. 279).

Lake Venern, an immense sheet of water (100 Engl. M. long ;
50 M. wide between Ama.1 andMariestad; about 2290 Engl. sq. M. in
area ; 140 ft. above the sea-level), where storms not unfrequently
impede the navigation, forms an inland sea into which fall most
of the rivers of Vester - Gotland and Vermland , including the
Klar-Elf, one of the largest rivers in Scandinavia. These rivers,
which frequently expand into the long lakes so characteristic of
the Scandinavian peninsula, traverse vast tracts of forest, and
afford easy and natural routes for the transport of timber to the
lake, whence the Gota-Elf conveys it to the coast.

On the left bank of the Gota-Elf, to the S.E. of Venersborg,
rise the steep and wooded Halleberg (485 ft. ; with an 'Attestupa',
p. 384), and the Hunneberg (490 ft.), both with lakes and moors
on their plateaux and pretty views from their slopes. The Halle-
berg is best ascended by the good road from Lilleskog (p. 294).
The Hunneberg is ascended from Venersborg via (8 Kil.) Nygar'd.

294 Route SS. HERRLJUNGA. From Oothenhwg

From Venersborg to Herrljunga, 65 Kll. (40>/2 Engl. M.), railway in
3 hrs. (fares 4 kr. 30, 2 kr. 45 o.). — The train crosses a cataract formed
by the Gota-Elf after emerging from the lake, passes between the Halle-
berg and the Hunneherg, and Teaches (10 Kil.) the prettily situated
Lilleskog. To the left lies the Dettern, a bay of Lake Venern. 19 Kil.
Salstad; 24 Kil. Grastorp; 32 Kil. Ulfilorp. From (37 Kil.) Hakantorp
a branch-line diverges to (28 Kil.) Lidkoping (l'/2 hr. ; see p. 295). 43 Kil.
Vara; 54 Kil. Vedum. — 65 Kil. Herrljunga, see below.

Steamboat on the Dalsland Canal to Fredrikshald, see p. 279.

38. From Gothenburg to Stockholm.

458 Kil. (284 Engl. M.). Two through-trains daily, a night-train in
12 hrs., and a day-train in 14'/2 hrs. (fares 38 kr. 95, 27 kr. 50, 18 kr. 35 6.).
The very slow local and mixed trains (fares 32 kr. 10, 24 kr. 5, 16 kr. 5 ii.)
should be avoided. — Those who wish to see Lake Vettern take the train
from Falkoping to Jbnkoping , and the steamboat thence to JUolala and
Ifallsberg (comp. RR. 39, 40).

This important railway (the Vestra Stambana) intersects the
whole of Sweden from S.W. to N.E. , and connects the two most
important cities in the kingdom. The scenery is pleasing nearly
the whole way, but has no pretension to grandeur.

To Olskroken, at which only a few trains stop , see p. 290.
The line then curves to the right into the valley of the Safvea,, a
tributary of the Gota-Elf, and crosses the river. 9 Kil. Partilled ;
15 Kil. Jonsered, beautifully situated on the Aspen-Sjo, with
cotton-spinning. Near (20 Kil.) Lerum the train crosses the
Safvea by a bridge of five arches, and ascends to (27 Kil.) Floda,
at the W. end of the lake of that name. Farther on, the line tra-
verses an embankment 914 yds. long , and is carried through the
hill called Krbsekullen by a cutting 1007 yds. long. Scenery still
very pleasing. 35 Kil. Norsesund.

46 Kil. (28y2 Engl. M.) Alingsas (Stads-Hotellet), with 2500
inhab. and several large manufactories, prettily situated near the
influx of the Safvea into Lake Mjbrn , was founded in 1611 by
inhabitants of the neighbouring town of Lbdbse, which had been
destroyed by the Danes. — The train crosses the Safvea several
times, quits that river near (60 Kil.) Lagmansholm, and traverses
several extensive and barren moors (Svaltor, i.e. 'famine-lands').
67 Kil. Vargarda.

80 Kil. (50 M.) Herrljunga, a prettily situated place , is the
junction of branch -lines to the N.W. to Venersborg, Oxnered,
and Uddevalla (see above) and to the S. to Boras. Railway-travellers
from Stockholm may diverge here to Venersborg in order to visit
the Falls of Trollhatta.

From Herrljunga to Boras, 42 Kil. (26 Engl. 31.), railway in 2 hrs.
(fares 2 kr. 95, 1 kr. 70 ii.). At stat. Ljung begin the dreary moors known
as Svaltor (see above). Stations Borgslena, Fristad. — Boras (BStel Tester-
gbtland ; Tictoria ; Jernvagi-Hotel), with 6000 inhab. and numerous cotton-
mills, is a pleasant little town. Pretty walks in the environs. — From
Boras to Varberg, see p. 288.

From Herrljunga to Lidkoping and Venersborg, see above.

87 Kil. (54 M.) Foglavik; 101 Kil. Sorby. At Markakyrka the

to Stockholm. LIDKOPING. 38. Route. 295

line reaches its highest point (740 ft. above the sea-level), and
then passes through a deep cutting. Tunnel.

114 Kil. (71 M.) Falkoping (Jernvags-Hotel, Rantens-Hotel,
both at the station) is the junction for Jonkoping and Nassjo (R. 39).
Halt of 10-15 minutes. The town, with 2800 inhab. , lies 3/4 Engl. M.
from the station. Margaret of Denmark defeated King Albert of
Sweden here in 1389, and in consequence of this victory the three
Scandinavian kingdoms were united by the Kalmar Union (p. 391).
On the neighbouring Mosseberg ('cap hill'; 820 ft.) is a hydro-
pathic establishment. This hill and. the adjacent Alleberg resemble
the Kinnekulle (see below) in formation. The upper part con-
sists of trap-rock.

129 Kil. (80 M.) Stenstorp is the junction of a branch-line to
the W. to Lidkoping on Lake Venern, and of another to the E.
to Hjo on Lake-Vettern.

From Stenstokp to Hjo, 38 Kil. (23>/2 Engl. M.), railway in2-3hrs. (fares
2kr. 75, lkr. 60 6. ; no first class). Stations: Data, Svensbro (branch-line to
Ekedalen and Tidaholm), Vreten, Fridened , Korsberga, Mofalla. — Hjo
(Jernvags-Hotel; Phoenix; Royal), a town with 1400 inhab., is charmingly
situated on Lake Vettern, in a district known as Guldkroken ('golden
corner'). Several large estates in the vicinity. Steamboat once weekly to
Stockholm via Vadstena, Motala, and the canal-route, and once weekly to
these stations and Jonkoping. On the opposite bank lies Haslholmen, a
steamboat-station, with the Omberg (p. 300; boat 5 kr.).

From Stenstorp to Lidkoping, 50 Kil. (31 Engl. M.), railway in2V2-3hrs.
(3 kr. 50, 2 kr. 25 o. ; no first class). The train crosses the Brunhemsberg,
between the Hornborgasjo (395 ft.) and the Billingen , and traverses the
Axevalla Heath, the largest military exercising-ground in Sweden. 10 Kil.
Broddelorp. About 6 Kil. to the E. of (20 Kil.) Axvall, near the 'skjuts-
station' Klostrel, at the base of Billingen, stands the interesting Varnhems-
kyrka, a Gothic church containing tombs of early Swedish kings.

28 Kil. (17 M.) Skara (Gdstgifvaregard; Sladskdllare) , once a famous
episcopal town, mentioned by Adam of Bremen, now with 3500 inhab., was
anciently a great stronghold of Swedish paganism. The Cathedral,' con-
secrated by Bishop Odgrim in 1151, has a very fine interior. The whole
building is about to be thoroughly restored. It contains a monument to
Erik Soop, who saved the life of Gustavus Adolphus at the battle of
Stuhm (in W. Prussia) in 1629. Near Skara are Gudhem and Husaby on
the Kinnekulle (see below), where sacrifices used to be offered. To the
N. of the town is the mineral spring of Lund.

50 Kil. (31 M.) Lidkoping ("HStel Lidkoping; Svea, carriages to the Kinne-
kulle), a town on the Lidan-Elf and Lake Venern, with 5000 inhab., rebuilt
after several fires. — Steamboat from Lidkoping to Venersborg and to
Christinehamn and Karlstad (p. 312) twice weekly. — Railway to Lofvene,
Hjerpas, and H&kantorp (28 Kil., in IV2 hr.), and on to Venersborg or
Herrljunga (Gothenburg), see pp. 294, 293.

[Fbom Skara to Gossater, 27Kil. (17 M.), railway in l^hr., via Lands-
brunn and Gbtened, for a visit to the Kinnekulle. — The Kinnekulle is
one of the most interesting hills in Sweden, both geologically and in
point of scenery. It occupies an isolated position between Lake Venern
on the W. and the plains of W. Gotland on the E., and is about 8 Engl. 31.
long and 4 M. broad. It boasts of forests, valleys, bold cliffs (klefvor, a
word used by the Norwegians also), rich pastures, and numerous farms
and hamlets, forming quite a little world of its own, and the vegetation
is unusually luxuriant, apple and cherry-trees growing wild here. The
hills rise gently in the form of different terraces, each of which generally
marks a different geological formation. The rocks consist of granite,

296 Route 38. SKOFDE. From Gothenburg

sandstone, alum-slate, limestone, clay-slate, and lastly trap at the top,
which has forced its way in a fluid condition through all the strata
below it. This range of hills contains numerous grottoes, the finest
being the Morkeklef, near B&bdck, in which there is a clear spring. The
parishes of Vester, dster, and MedelPlana, and parts of those of Klefva
and Husaby lie in this region. On the W. side are the loftily situated
K aback, Blomberg, Hjelmsater, and Hellekis, with its extensive quarries ;
on the N. side are HSntater and other villages -, and on the S. side Husa-
bykyrka (10 Kil. from Lidkoping), the most ancient cathedral-church in
Sweden. A fine view of the bold and picturesque hills is obtained here.
Hbgkullen (770 ft. above Lake Venern, 915 ft. above the sea-level ; Inn
at the top, open in summer), the highest point, may be reached in 3jt hr.
from Gossater, and commands an uninterrupted view of the lake and
Vester-Gcitland. Conspicuous features in the landscape are the Kallandso
(with the chateau of Lecko), Lidkoping, Mariestad, and the hills to the
S. (Billingen, Mcisseberg, and Alleberg).

We may also visit the Kinnekulle by taking the steamboat (or a sail-
ing-boat) from Lidkoping to Hellekis, on the N.W. side of the Kinnekulle,
from which Lukastorp (plain inn), situated near the highest point, is
■/« hr. distant.]

Beyond Stenstorp the structure of the line is an object of in-
terest, and fine views are enjoyed towards the E. — 139 Kil.
Skultorp.

145 Kil. (90 M.) Skofde (Jernvags-Hotel; Qcistgifvaregard), an
old town with 4100 inhab., prettily situated at the foot of Billingen,
has a water-cure establishment which attracts visitors.

From Skofde to Karlsbokg, 44 Kil. (27 Engl. M.), in 11/2-2 hrs. (fares
3 kr. 10, 2 kr. 35, 1 kr. 55 o.), via Igelstorp, Tibro, Fagersanna, and Moll-
torp. — Karlsborg ('Johansson 's Inn) was founded in 1820 as a fortified
rallying-point and refuge in case of hostile invasion, but is still un-
completed. It is beautifully situated on the rands, a promontory pro-
jecting into Lake Vettern," at the extremity of which stands a royal
pavilion. A new harbour has been constructed between the Lindo and
the PukO. On the Bottensjo , an arm of Lake Vettern to the W., rises
the raberg, commanding a fine view of the lake.

Karlsborg lies at the E. end of the W. half of the Gota Canal (see p. 302).
Steamers bound for Gothenburg leave Lake Vettern here, touching at
Rodesund, traverse the BottensjS, and ascend by a lock to the lake of
riken, the highest sheet of water on the Gota route, lying about 300 ft.
above the sea-level. At the end of the lake the steamer regains the Gota
Canal through another lock. In 5 hrs. after leaving Rodesund the steamer
reaches the railway and steamboat station of Toreboda (see below). From
Toreboda the steamer takes 7 hrs. to reach Sjbtorp on Lake Venern and
10 hrs. more to reach Venersborg (p. 293).

160 Kil. (99 M.) Varing ; 167 Kil. Tidan. To the left a view
of Lake Osten and the fertile plain of Vadsbo. 171 Kil. Moholm.

Branch Line (18 Kil., in 1 hr. ; 1 kr. 50 o., 1 kr.) to Seckestad, Jula,
and Mariestad (Slads-Hotel) , a town of 2900 inhab., prettily situated at
the influx oi the Tidan into Lake Venern. Steamboat weekly to Lid-
koping, to Amal, and to Christinehamn and Karlstad.

At (184 Kil.) Toreboda the train crosses the Qbta Canal (see
above). The train next traverses Tiveden, a dreary forest -clad
region, famed in the military annals of Sweden.

198 Kil. (123 M.) Elgaras ; 215 Kil. Finnerodja. To the left
we obtain an extensive view of the Skagern-Sjo. The train then
passes the lake and village of Bodarne on the right.

229 Kil. (142 M.) Laxa. The railway to Charlottenberg and

to Stockholm. KATRINEHOLM. 38. Route. 297

Christiania diverges here to the left (see R. 42). — About 4 Engl. M.
to the N. is Porla Helsobrunn (p. 313), a small watering-place.

244 Kil. Vretstorp; to the N. rises the Kilsberg.

259 Kil. (160 M.) Hallsberg (*Rail. Restaurant; Jernvags-
Hotel; Qastgifvaregard) is an important station , being the junc-
tion for Orebro to the N. (p. 313) and Motala (p. 302) to the S. ;
stoppage of 10-20 minutes.

Beyond Hallsberg the train commands a fine view of the
plain of Nerike. — 272 Kil. Palsboda, the junction of a narrow-
gauge line to Norsholm (p. 309). — 284 Kil. Kilsmo, on the N. bank
of Lake Sottern. 294 Kil. Hbgsjo. 303 Kil. Vingaker, a pretty
place, is the central point of the district of that name, the inhabi-
tants of which are a handsome race, remarkable for their pictur-
esque costumes (now rapidly disappearing) and their love of travel.
(See 'Svenska Folket, Taflor af J. W. ~Walander.~) Farther on, the
train passes Safstaholm (the chateau of which contains good paint-
ings by Swedish masters, a sculpture of Adonis and Cupid by Sy-
strom, a Mercury by Fogelberg, etc.), the lakes of Viren, Kolsnar
(nar, 'lake'), and Nasnar, and the chateau of Sjbholm. 316 Kil.
Baggetorp.

324 Kil. (201 M.) Katrineholm (Jernvags-Hotel, with restau-
rant) is the junction for Norrkoping, Mjolby, NSssjo, and Malmo
(RR. 41, 53). In the vicinity are the estates of Stora Djulo and
Klaestorp, with marble-polishing works, of the products of which
there is an exhibition at Katrineholm.

The train now traverses the picturesque district of Sbderman-
land, with its extensive forests and numerous lakes (which last
have given rise to the saying that 'in Sodermanland the Creator
omitted to separate the land from the water'), and passes a number
of large chateaux belonging to the Swedish aristocracy. 334 Kil.
Valla ; 346 Kil. Fieri, with the chateau of Stenhammar on the Val-
demaren (or Vammelri) Lake. From Flen to Eskilstuna and Nykoping,
see p. 354.

361 Kil. (224 M.) Sparreholm, with the estate of that name, a
favourite Sunday resort of the Stockholmers. 373 Kil. Stjernhof;
382 Kil. Bjbrnlunda. The scenery from this point to Stockholm is
the prettiest on the whole journey. Beyond (391 Kil.) Gnesta we
pass the picturesque Frosj'6 or Lake Frustuna and Lake Sillen.
— From Gnesta an interesting excursion may be taken to the S.E.
to the chateau of Tullgam, near Aby, at present the summer re-
sidence of the crown-prince of Sweden, and to Trosa (Stadtkallare),
a small town on the Baltic, from which a steamboat plies to
Sodertelge and Stockholm.

398 Kil. (247 M.) Mblnbo ; 409 Kil. Jerna.

421 Kil. (261 M.) Sodertelge Ofre, from which a short branch-
line runs to (3/4 Engl. M.) the town of Sodertelge, the first station
on the canal-route from Stockholm to Gothenburg (p. 306).

298 Route 39. JONKOPING.

The train crosses the Sodertelge Canal by a handsome draw-
bridge or swing-bridge (svangbro). The scenery here is pleasing,
but soon loses its interest. 434 Kil. Tumba, with the large paper-
manufactory of the Bank of Sweden. 443 Kil, Huddinge; 449 Kil.
Elfsj'6, beyond which is the Nyboda Tunnel (300 yds.); 453 Kil.
Liljeholmen.

The train crosses the Arstavik , a bay of the Malar, by means
of an embankment (300 yds.), to the left of which is a bridge
for the road, and beyond it the Reimersholm and Lofholm, while
to the right is the sugar-manufactory of Tanto. We then pass
the old Sbdra Station, where no trains now stop , beyond which
a tunnel, 470 yds. long, leads under the Sodermalm to the bank
of the Malar. The train then crosses a bay of the Riddarfjarde,
passes the Malartorg in Staden , skirts the E. side of the Riddar-
holm, crosses another arm of the Riddarfjarde by an iron bridge
268 yds. long, and Anally stops at the Central Station at the S.W.
angle of the Norrmalm quarter.

458 Kil. (284 M.) Stockholm, see p. 316.

39. From Falkoping via Jonkoping to Nassjo.

112 Kil. (G9'/2 Engl. 31.). Railway ( Sodra-Slambana) in 23/4-6'/2 hrs.
(fares 7 kr. 85, 5 kr. 90, 3 kr. 95 6. ; express, 9 kr. 55, 6 kr. 75, 4 kr. 50 ii.).
— Views to the left.

Falkoping Station , see p. 295. The train stops again at Fal-
koping Stad, 1 Kil. from the starting-point. The next station is
(10 Kil.) Vartofta, the junction for (37 Kil.) Ulricehamn, a town
with HOOinhab. at the N. end of Lake Asunden (reached by a
narrow-gauge line in 2-2i/4 hrs. ; fares 3 kr., 1 kr. 85 6.). The
train crosses the long Lake Straken by means of an embankment
420 yds. in length. Several unimportant stations. At (50 Kil.)
Habo the train reaches Lake Vettern and in clear weather com-
mands a view of the Visingso and Qrenna in the distance. 56 Kil.
Bankeryd.

69 Kil. (43 Engl. M.) Jonkoping (*'Stora Hotel, to the E.
of the station, with a garden, one of the best hotels in Sweden,
R. II/2-2V2 kr. > Central Hotel, 2 min. from the station, R. from
ll/2kr. ; Lundberg's, in the town; Post Office in the town-hall),
the capital of Gotland and the seat of the chief court for the
southern provinces of Sweden (except Skane), a busy manufactur-
ing town with 19,400 inhab., charmingly situated between Lake
Vettern and the Munksjo, which are connected by a canal. The
streets are wide and regular. The beauty of the situation of the
town is enhanced by the mountains to the S.

Beautiful promenades extend southwards from the Railway
Station, which adjoins the harbour, to the Munksjo. In the centre
of the S. part of the promenades, in front of the new Elementar-
laroverkshus (elementary school), rises a handsome Fountain. The

LAKE VETTERN. 40. Route. 299

Kyrkogatan, at the back of the Elementarlaroverkshus leads S. to
the beautiful gardens of Stora Limugnen, picturesquely situated
on the Munksjo. Beyond Stora Limugnen (Restaurant) is the
Munksjo Papperbruk, which exports a kind of roofing-pasteboard
and different kinds of paper to S. America.

To the W. of the railway-station lies the famous Match Manu-
factory (not shown to the public), the produce of which ('tand-
stickor utan svafvel och fosfor') is met with in every part of Europe.
The Vestra Storgatan passes the S. side of the match factory and
leads to the *Dunkehallar, a hill commanding a beautiful view and
studded with numerous villas. To the S.W. lies the reservoir of
the town water-works, with a large fountain (view). Pleasant walks
may be taken to the E. along Lake Vettern and to Ostra Kapellet.

Excursions. The Taberg (1125 ft.), with famous iron-mines, 11 Kil.
to the S. of the town, commands a noble survey of the forests of Sma-
land. — Another interesting point is 'Husqvarna (carr. there and back,
with stay of 2 hrs., 5 kr. ; omn. from the K. end of the town several times
daily), 8 Kil. to the E., with its manufactories and the waterfalls of the
llusqvarnaa, the finest of which is near the inn and is reached by passing
through the garden of the 'disponent' (factory-manager). Magnificent view
of Lake Vettern, especially by evening-light.

As it leaves Jonkoping the train commands fine retrospective
views of the town and the lake. It gradually ascends, and affords
a view of the Husqvarna Waterfalls (see above) to the left. 86 Kil.
Tenhult ; 97 Kil. For serum. Then —

113 Kil. (70 M.) Nassjo, see p. 306.

40. From Jonkoping to Stockholm by Lake Vettern
and the Gota Canal.

Steamboat from Jonkoping to Stockholm, via Vadslena, Motala, Jfors-
ho in, SSderkSping, and Sodertelge, thrice weeklv, starting on Tues.,
Thurs., and Sat. (from Stockholm on Mon., Wed.,' and Frid.). The pas-
sage takes 36 hrs. (fares 16 or 11 kr.); to Norsholm 15 hrs. (9 or 7 kr.).
As the Stockholm steamer passes Lake Vettern at night, it is advisable
(if time is not thereby lost) to take a Lake Vettern steamboat (starting
twice weekly) to Vadslena or Motala, and then go on by the JbnkSping-
Stockholm or the Gothenburg - Stockholm steamer (2-3 times a week). —
Travellers who intend to proceed by rail (pp. 304, 305) from Berg or
Norsholm should bear in mind that the canal-boats are frequently late,
and often fail to make communication with the trains.

a. Lake Vettern.
*Lake Vettern (290 ft.), the most beautiful of the great lakes
of S. Sweden, is about 80 Engl. M. in length and averages 12 M.
in breadth. The peasantry on its shores believe that it is connected
by a subterranean channel with the Lake of Geneva and even
with the Black Sea. Like Lake Venern, it forms a large inland
sea, into which numerous rivers empty themselves, while the
Motalastrom forms its only outlet. Although less extensive than
the sister-lake , it is even more liable to sudden storms which

300 Route 40. HASTHOLMEN. From Jonkoping

endanger the navigation, and on both lakes the miseries of sea-
sickness are often experienced. The banks of the lake are on the
whole far more picturesque than those of Lake Venern, and the
water is exquisitely clear. Among the hills on its banks the Va-
berg on the W. bank and the Omberg opposite to it are conspicu-
ous, each rising about 580 ft. above the lake. The finest points
on the lake are the Karlsborg and Hjo (pp. 296, 295) , on the W.
bank ; the Visingso, a picturesque island towards the S. end ; Jon-
koping, at the S. end ; and Grenna, Hastholmen, with the Omberg,
and Vadstena on the E. bank. At the N. end the banks are flat
and uninteresting. The lake is connected by the Gota Canal with
Lake Venern and the Kattegat.

About 2 hrs. after leaving Jonkoping the steamer reaches the
beautifully situated town of —

Grenna (Gastgifvaregard), with 1300 inhab., founded by Count
Per Brahe in 1652. The ruined castle of Brahehus, to the N. of
the town , commands an admirable view. — From Grenna a visit
may be paid by steamer or small boat to the *Visingso (Inn) , an
island about 8 Engl. M. long and 2 Engl. M. broad, once the
property of the powerful Counts of Brahe, and now a royal domain
(kungsladugard). The island is fertile and well cultivated, and
contains an extensive Oak Plantation, the timber of which is used
in the government-dockyards, and numerous fine walnut-trees. The
picturesque ruin of Visingsborg, the ancient castle of the counts,
is on the E. bank, surrounded with fine timber. In the 17th cent.
Count Per Brahe founded a grammar-school and a printing-office
here, which were closed in 1811. The Church, completed in
1636, is an interesting edifice. At the S. extremity of the island
are a few scanty relics of the ancient castle of Ndsbo. Several
kings of Sweden once resided in the island , including Magnus
Ladulas , who died here in 1290. The road to the S. end of the
island passes the interesting Gilbert's Grotto

Beyond Grenna the steamer usually steers to the N. to (2 hrs.) —

Hastholmen {Gastgifvaregard, well spoken of), another charm-
ingly situated spot on the E. bank of Lake Vettern, with a new
harbour. The chief attraction here is the excursion to the Omberg
and Alvastra, one of the most interesting in the southern half of
Sweden, now made much more accessible by the extension of the
railway from Vadstena to Hastholmen (p. 307). Provisions should
be taken (no inn on the way). We proceed by small boat, with a
rower who acts as guide (2-3 kr.), to the *Rodgafvels Grotto, a
cavern 66 ft. long and 25-30 ft. high, being the largest of a num-
ber of grottoes in the deeply furrowed cliffs of the Omberg, which
recall the coast of Capri. — From the grotto, near which we land,
we ascend to the Hjessan (p. 301) in 1/2 hr.

The *Omberg, the most interesting hill in S. Sweden next to
the Kinnekulle (p. 2951 begins a little to the N. of Hastholmen,

to Stockholm. VADSTENA. 40. Route. 301

extends for upwards of 6 Engl. M. along the bank of the lake,
and is about 2 Engl. M. in breadth. On the side next the lake
the Makeberge ('gull-hills', 290 ft.), Elfverums TJdde ('promon-
tory'), and the Rodgafvel ('ted gable', 140 ft.) rise abruptly from
the water, while the gently sloping E. side of the hill is furrowed
with valleys and richly clothed with forest. The hill consists
chiefly of gneiss and mica-slate, but transition limestone, clay
slate, and sandstone also occur. The highest point is the Hjessan
('crown' ; 575 ft. above the lake, 845 ft. above the sea), at the S.
end, which commands an extensive view, now somewhat curtailed
by the trees. The Omberg is the northernmost place in inland
Sweden where the red beech (fagus sylvatica) thrives, but in Bohus
Lan it occurs as far north as 58° 30' N. latitude. The beautiful
forest is crown property. — We return via *Alvastra (railway-
station, see p. 307), the picturesque ruins of a Bernardine convent,
founded in the 12th cent, by Alfhild (Alfhildsstad, Alvastra), the
wife of King Sverkerl. Kings SverkerL, Charles VII., Sverkerll.,
and John I., and other illustrious personages, are buried within
its precincts. The church, dedicated to the Virgin, is in the form
of a Latin cross. The nave and aisles and the choir are still trace-
able. TheW. wall, like that of the choir, contained a large window
with rosettes and divided by a mullion. The whole building,
which was constructed of limestone, was roofed with barrel-vaulting.

From Hastholmen the steamer slants across the lake to (l^hr-)
Hjo (p. 295), on the W. bank. It then returns to the E. bank. At
Rbdgafvels Port the lake attains its greatest depth (410 ft.).
Among the fantastically shaped rocks passed are Munken or Gra-
karlen ('the monk', 'grey man'), Predikstolen ('the pulpit'), and
Jungfrun ('the virgin'). Farther on, visible from the deck of the
steamboat, are the Vestra Vaggar and Mullskraerna, the An-ZJdde,
and Borghamn , with its large quarries. The steamer now rounds
the peninsula of Nassja and reaches (3 hrs. from Hjo) —

Vadstena {Hotel Bellevue, near the harbour), a station of the
railway mentioned at p. 307. Vadstena, a town of ancient origin
and now the centre of a lace-making industry, with 2200 inhab.,
became a place of some importance after the foundation of the
monastery of St. Birgitta (St. Bridget of Sweden) in 1383, around
which it is built. The monastery was suppressed in 1595, and is
now a lunatic asylum. The *Monastery Church, erected in 1395-
1424, called the Blakyrka from the colour of its stone and by way
of contrast to the brick Rodkyrka, is worthy of a visit. It contains
a monument to Duke Magnus and others of interest. The floor is
paved with tombstones, bearing the Runic characters which formed
the cognisance (bomarke, vapenmarke, skoldmdrke) of the deceased.
Queens Philippa and Katarina are also interred here. The sacristy
contains the remains of St. Bridget and her daughter St. Katarina,
which are preserved in a reliquary covered with red velvet. A

302 Route 40. GOTA CANAL. From Jonkijping

peculiarity of the church is that the choir is at the W. end. (The
Klockare lives near.) — A fine example of a Swedish castle of the
16th cent, is the* Vetter sborg, close to the lake and the harbour (the
old moat), which was erected by Gustavus Vasa. The interior, which
has been used successively as a school, a manufactory, and a store-
house , is uninteresting. A window is shown as that from which
the insane Duke Magnus of Ostergotland, one of the sons of Gusta-
vus Vasa, threw himself into the lake, attracted, as he declared,
by the songs of sirens. Finely vaulted chapel. Extensive view
from the tower. — After another hour the steamer touches at —

Motala {Hotel Nilsson; Hotel Bergstrom ; Prins Karl, to the S.
of the Storbro, with a pleasant garden on the river ; baths by the
harbour), a town with 2200 inhab. , prettily situated in park-like
scenery on the Varvik, at the efflux of the Motala from Lake Vettern.
It lies about midway between Gothenburg and Stockholm, at the
W. end of the eastern half of the Gota Canal (Ostgbta Linie).
The road to Skenige commands a fine view. A shady *Promenade
leads on the bank of the canal to Motala Verkstad (p. 303). At
Motala there is a 'bestammande sluss' or reservoir lock, used for
the purpose of regulating the quantity of water in the canal. —

Travellers arriving at Motala from Jonkoping or Nassjo, and
intending to proceed to Stockholm by the Gota Canal, are recom-
mended to proceed by steam-launch to Motala Verkstad and pass
the night there in Verkstadens Hotel. In this way they will have
time to inspect the works, and visit Platen's grave and the locks
of Borenshult (comp. p. 304). The scenery resembles a park.

Railway to Hallsberg and Mjolby, see p. 307.

About 10 Kil. to the N. of Motala is the favourite watering-place
Medevi, with chalybeate springs.

b. Gota Canal. Ostgota Linie.

The project of uniting the E. and W. coasts of Sweden by a
water-highway , the greater part of which already existed in the
navigable lakes Malaren, Hjelmaren, Vettern, and Venern, was
first ventilated by Bishop Brask of Linkoping in 1516 , and was
afterwards taken up by Gustavus Vasa and Charles IX., the latter
of whom constructed the Karlsgraben at Venersborg. It was not,
however, till the 18th cent, that the work was seriously taken in
hand and an attempt made by the engineers Svedenborg and
Polhem (1716), and afterwards Viman (1753), to overcome the
main obstacles to the success of the scheme by the construction of
a system of locks and sluices at Karlsgraben and Trollhattan (comp,
p. 292). In 1755 the principal part of the latter, the so-called
Flottbergsdamm, was destroyed by floating timber, and the enter-
prise was abandoned till 1793, when a company was formed for
the completion of the work. The old locks of Trollhattan were
opened in 1800 (p. 292), and Lake Venern was thus brought into
communication with the N. Sea for the first time.

to Stockholm. GOTA CANAL. 40. Route. 303

After the completion of the Trollhatta Canal in 1800, the task
of connecting Lake Venern with the Baltic by another series of
canals still remained for the Swedish engineers to execute. Sur-
veys had already been made for this purpose by Daniel Thunberg at
the close of last century , but the plans were finally adjusted by
Baron Baltzar von Platen, with the aid of Thomas Telford, the
English engineer , in 1808. These other canals , connecting Lake
Venern with Lake Vettern , and the latter with the Baltic , were
constructed in 1810-32 at a cost of about 5 million crowns. All
the different parts of the Canal between Stockholm and Gothen-
burg are collectively known as the Gota Canal, though each part
has a local name of its own. The section between Lakes Venern
and Vettern is the Gota Canal par excellence or Vestgiita Linie,
while the section connecting the Vettern with the Baltic Sea is
called the Ostgota Linie.

Although other important systems of canals, such as the Stroms-
holms Canal (p. 365) and the Dalslands Canal (p. 279), have been
constructed in Sweden since the completion of the Gota Canal, yet
the last still retains the chief place of interest on account of the
picturesque scenery through which it leads. The prettiest part is
the Ostgota Linie, while the Vestgota Linie and Lake Venern are
somewhat monotonous and uninteresting. Travellers who are press-
ed for time will find it enough to travel by canal from Motala to
Berg or Norsholm. Many, however, prefer to proceed in the steamer
to Stockholm, in which case they will find the final stage, from
Soderkoping to Stockholm as seen in the clear summer night, one
of the most picturesque scenes in Swedish travel. Travellers are
recommended in no case to make the whole journey from Gothen-
burg to Stockholm by steamer (2Y2 days), as they would find it
extremely monotonous and tiresome.

Statistics. The total distance from the N. Sea to the Baltic by
the canal-route is about 240 Engl. 31. (to Venersborg 55, thence to Sjotorp
75, and from Sjotorp to Mem 110 Engl. M.). The artificial part of this
water-way, including 74 locks in all, is about 56 Engl. M. in length.
The highest point of the canal is at Lake Viken (p. 296). The canal is
46 ft. wide at the bottom and 86 ft. on the surface, and is 10 ft. in depth.
Four of the locks, called 'bestammande slussar', are used for regulating
the level of the water. The canal is crossed by upwards of 30 bridges,
and there are numerous sluices for the purpose of letting off the water
when repairs are necessary. About 7000 barges and small steamers annually
ply between the N. Sea and Lake Venern, and about 3000 between Lake
Venern and the Baltic.

About 2 Engl. M. to the E. of Motala lies Motala Verkstad,
an extensive establishment (1700 hands), comprising iron-works
and an engine-factory, founded in 1822, and the property of a
company. Visitors are admitted. Professional men may apply to
the director for special information. The works are driven by a
single water-wheel, which is turned by the water of the canal 38 ft.
above it. In the Dufvedal, on the N. side of the works, is the simple
tomb of Baron von Platen (d. 1829), the chief engineer of the

304 Route 40. BERG. From Gothenburg

canal, -whose son, the minister von Platen (d. 1875), is also buried
here.

Immediately beyond the Verkstad are the five *Locks of
Borenshult, by means of which vessels descend to the picturesque
Lake Boren , 49 ft. lower. With the exception of the locks and
waterfalls of Trollhiittan, the most interesting part of the whole
canal is that between Motala Verkstad and Berg on the Roxen.
Travellers by steamboat from Lake Vettern should land at Motala
and walk thence to Borenshult, for which they will have plenty of
time while the steamer is passing the locks (1 hr.). There is,
however, scarcely time for a visit to the Verkstad.

*Lake Boren (240 ft.), 9 Engl. M. long, and nearly 4 Engl. M.
wide, the water of which is beautifully clear, is next traversed by
the steamer. On the S. bank, near the church of Ekbyboma, is
the estate of Ulfasa, once the property of St. Bridget (d. 1373) and
her husband Ulf Gudmarsson. On the N. bank is the church of
Krigsberg. In 2 hrs. after leaving Motala the steamer reaches —

Husbyfjol, a pretty place, with an inn and another 'bestam-
mande sluss', or regulating lock (p. 303). It then quits the lake and
enters another reach of the canal, running on the S. side of the
Motalastrom. The scenery continues to be picturesque and park-
like in character. On the left is Kungs-Norrby, a royal domain,
once the property of the Vasa family, and beyond it the Kungs-
Xorrby-Sjo, with which the canal runs nearly parallel. On the
right is the beautiful village of Brunneby, with a church now used
as a storehouse. Between the canal and the lake we next observe
Ljung, an estate and country-seat, with a manufactory of beetroot-
sugar. Farther on are the iron-works of Jakobslund and the plea-
sant estate of Brunneby, with a lock, and a little beyond it are fifteen
other locks at short intervals, by means of which the steamer de-
scends about 120 ft. to Lake Roxen. In 3i/2 hrs. more we reach —

Berg, at the W. end of Lake Roxen (108 ft.), a sheet of water
17 Engl. M. long and 6M. broad, of which it commands a fine view.
As the steamer takes 2-3 hrs. to pass through the locks, passengers
have ample time to visit the interesting Vreta Klosterkyrka. It
once belonged to a monastery situated here, which was founded
in the 12th cent., and where Ebba Lejonhufvud, Gustavus Vasa's
mother-in-law , who refused to abjure the Roman Catholic faith,
died in 1549. The church, which has been almost entirely rebuilt
since its original erection, contains monuments to King Inge (d.
about 1123) and his queen Helena, restored by John III. (d. 1592),
King Valdemar Byrgesson(d. 1302), and to several members of the
Douglas family who entered the Swedish service. In the vicinity
is Kungsbro, at the influx of the Motala into Lake Roxen, once the
property of Gustavus Vasa. The most interesting part of the canal-
route terminates here. Passengers may either proceed hence by
the road to Linkoping (p. 307), about 12 Kil. to the S.E., or go on

to Stockholm. SODERKOPING. 40. Route. 305

by the steamer to Norsholm, and complete their journey to Stock-
holm by railway (p. 309).

On the hilly and wooded N. side of Lake Roxen is the ruined
castle of Stjernarp , formerly the property of the Douglas family.
The S. bank of the lake is flatter , but well cultivated and not
unpicturesque. To the S.E., about 3 1/2 Engl. M. from the lake
and connected with it by a canal, is Linkoping (p. 307). — In

2 hrs. after leaving Berg we reach —

Norsholm (p. 309), at the E. end of Lake Roxen, at the entrance
to another part of the canal, which is crossed here by the Stockholm
and Nassjo railway (R. 41). Passengers may disembark here and
proceed by the night -train to Stockholm. The Motala and the
Gota Canal issue from Lake Roxen here, the former falling into
Lake Glan, about 7 Engl. M. to the N. The steamer descends
three locks, and at Hulta enters the narrow lake of Asplangen,

3 Engl. M. in length. At Snovelstorp it quits the lake , passes
the church of Vestra Husby on the right, and next reaches the
'regulating lock' of Klamman. Farther on, the canal is carried at
a considerable height above the surrounding country. Beyond
Venneberga Bro we descend the four locks of Karlsborg and two
more at Mariehof, and soon arrive at —

Soderkoping (Hotel Gbtakanal), a town with 1900 inhab., and
an important place in the 13-16th centuries, when it boasted
of a castle, two monasteries, and five churches. It lies on the
Gota Canal and the once navigable Stora. The St. Lars and the
Drothems Kyrka are now the only old buildings worthy of mention.
The neighbouring Hydropathic Establishment attracts numerous
Swedish visitors. The water is obtained from -St. Ragnhild's Kalla,
where the vessels for drawing the water are of a kind peculiar to
Sweden. Above the canal, on the N. side, rises the Ramundershall.

The steamer descends through a lock at Soderkoping and an-
other at the foot of the hill just mentioned, and passes Liljesta on
the right. About 3 Engl. M. from Soderkoping it reaches the last
lock, the 74th through which it has passed, where a marble slab
bears the inscription: 'OmHerren icke byggerhuset, saarbetade
fafangt, som derpa bygga' (except the Lord build the house, they
labour but in vain that build it). At this point , the E. end of
the Gota Canal, lies —

Mem, on Slatbaken, a long and narrow bay of the Baltic, where
the scenery again becomes more interesting. About 11 Engl. M. to
the E. of Mem we pass the picturesque ruined castle of Stege-
borg, once occupied by King Birger Magnusson (d. 1321). It was
rebuilt on a larger scale by Gustavus Vasa (d. 1560), whose son
John III. (d. 1592) was born here. The vessel then enters the
Trannofjard at the mouth of the Slatbaken creek, and steers past
Oottenvik, a pretty bay with wooded banks. Farther on, the steam-
er's course is partly on the open Baltic and partly through the

Baedekee"s Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 20

306 Route 41. NASSJO. From Nassjo

monotonous 'skargard' flanking the coast, where the intricate navi-
gation requires the utmost attention of the pilot. About 4 hrs.
after quitting Soderkbping the steamer reaches —

Oxelbsund, the terminus of the branch-railway to Nykbping
and Flen (R. 45). The next point of interest, about 11 Engl. M.
to the S. of Sodertelge, in a bay of the Baltic, is the handsome
chateau of Hbrningsholm, on the Mbrkb, which occupies the site
of an old castle to which many historical reminiscences attach.
It belonged to the famous family of Sture in the 15th and sub-
sequent centuries, and afterwards to the families of Bane*r and
Ribbing. Christina Gyllenstjerna died here, and the daughter of
one of the counts Sture was abducted hence by Eric Stenbock.
In 1719 the old castle was burned down by the Russians, and the
estates afterwards came into the possession of the Counts Bonde,
by whom the present chateau was erected. — At the N. end of
the bay in which the Morko is situated the steamboat enters the
short Sodertelge Canal, connecting the Baltic with the small Lake
Maren and Lake Mularen, to the level of which the steamboat
ascends by means of a lock. The next station, 5 hrs. beyond
OxeKisund, is —

Sodertelge (Central Hotel ; Phanix), a town with about 4300 in-
hab. , and a place of considerable antiquity, entirely destroyed by
the Russians in 1719. The church of St. Ragnhild is said to have
been built by the queen of that name, the wife of King Inge the
Younger, about the year 1100. The hydropathic establishment
here attracts numerous visitors from Stockholm and many Stock-
holmers have villas here. 'Kringlor' (ring-shaped cakes) and 'pep-
parkakor' (gingerbread) form a specialty of the place. — Several
trains and steamboats to Stockholm daily. — The steamboat trip
hence to Stockholm traverses the beautiful scenery of Lake Malaren,
which is seen to great advantage by early morning or late evening
light. The boat plies at night. In 2 hrs. after quitting Soder-
telge the steamer reaches —

Stockholm, see p. 316.

41. From Nassjo to Stockholm.

350 Kil. (217 Engl. M.). Sodra Stambana to Katrineholm, and Vestra
Stambana thence to Stockholm. Express in 8'/2 hrs., other fast trains in
9'/2-12 hrs. (fares 29 kr. 75 b., 21 kr.). The ordinary trains are not all
through-trains (fares 24 kr. 50, 18 kr. 40, 12 kr. 25 6.).

Nassjo (1015 ft. ; Hotel Wiberg, at the station, well spoken of;
*Railway Restaurant) is the junction for Jbnkbping (p. 298), Oskars-
hamn (p. 392) , and Halmstad (p. 289) , and is situated on the
direct railway from Malmb to Stockholm (see R. 53).

The first part of the journey traverses the N. part of Smaland,
the characteristics of which are described at p. 383. Between Grip-
enberg and SommenHes Holaveden, a hilly and wooded district sep-

to Stockholm. LINKOPING. 41. Route. 307

arating Smaland from Ostergotland. A similar chain of hills, called
Kolmarden (p. 310), bounds Ostergotland on the N. and divides it
from Sodermanland . The fertile Plain of Vadstena, round Skeninge,
Vadstena , and Linkoping , contains the oldest towns in Sweden,
many chateaux of the noblesse, and numerous manufactories.

12 Kil. (7i/2 Engl. M.) Solberga; 18 Kil. Flisby ; 24 Kil.
Aneby, on the lake of that name. The train follows the course of
the Svarta, which forms a series of lakes. The largest of these is
Lake Sommen (480 ft.), on which a steamer plies.

36 Kil. (221/2 M.) Frinnaryd, on Lake Ralangen (530 ft.), which
contains several floating islands ('rorliga holmar'). Near (42 Kil.)
Oripenberg is the large estate of that name, to the S. of which lies
Traneryd. 52 Kil. Tranas ; 64 Kil. Sommen. The train now
crosses the Svarta , which here forms several falls , and is the
boundary between Smaland and Ostergotland. Near Rockebro the
train skirts the N. bay of the Sommen.

73 Kil. (45 M.) Boxholm, with extensive iron-works. 78 Kil.
Stralsnas. The train gradually descends , passing several large
estates. — 89 Kil. Mjolby (*Inn, at the station), a busy little town
with large mills.

From Mjolby to Hallsbeeg , 96 Kil. (59'/2 Engl. M.J , railway in
4-5'/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 75, 5 kr. 5, 3 kr. 40 ii.). — 9 Kil. Skeninge (Hdtel
Landstrbm) , with 1400 inhab. , once the capital of Gotland , and famed
for the ecclesiastical council (kyrkombtet) held here in 1248. Important
cattle-fair in September. The so-called Law of Skeninge was very oppres-
sive, and once formed the subject of a special petition in a litany used
by the peasantry: —

'Fran Skenige ratt och Vadstena slott

Bevara os milde Herre Gud!'

(From the law of Skenige and the castle of Vadstena,

Good Lord deliver us !)

16 Kil. Fogelsta, whence a branch-line diverges to Vadstena and (ides-
hog (see below). 27 Kil. Motala, whence another short branch-line leads
to Motala Verkstad (p. 303). 41 Kil. Karlsby ; 48 Kil. Degerbn; 54 Kil. Gode-
gard; 66 Kil. Mariedam. From (79 Kil.) Lerbiick a branch-line runs in
50 min. to (14 Kil ) Askersund, a town of 1500 inhab. on Lake Vettern
(p. 299). 85 Kil. Asbro. — 96 Kil. (59V2 M.) Hallsbevg, see p. 297.

From Fogelsta to ^deshog, 40 Kil. (25 Engl. M.), railway in 2'/2 hrs.
(fares 2 kr. 95, 1 kr. 70 o.). — 10 Kil. Vadstena (p. 301). Beyond Herrestad
and (20 Kil.) Kallstad the line approaches Lake Takern, 8 M. in length and
l'/2-3 M. in width, and skirts the E. slopes of the Ornberg (p. 300), passing
Rogslota, Vatversunda, (30 Kil.) Omberg (whence Hjessan may be reached
in 1/2 hr., p. 301), Alvastra (p. 301), and (35 Kil.) Hastholmen (p. 300).
40 Kil. dderhog, a village IV2 M. to the E. of Lake Vettern, at the N.W.
margin of an extensive forest-district.

95 Kil. (59 M.) Sya; 99 Kil. Mantorp. Near (109 Kil.) Ranke-
berg is the agricultural school of Haddorp. The line intersects
a well-cultivated district, dotted with numerous churches.

121 Kil. (75 M.) Linkoping. —Hotels. "Slora Holellel, Stor-Torget
Lindeberg, Kungs-Gatan ; Hdtel die Nord, Kungs-Gatan; Dru/van, Bnkhalla
re-Gatan.

Carriages may be hired of O. Ahlstrom, in the Skjutsbolag. To the
locks of Berg and the Vreta Convent (p. 304), 11 Kil.

Steamboat to Soderkoping and Stockholm; see KomrminUalioner, No. 118.

20*

308 Route 41. KINDA CANAL. From Nassjo

Linkoping, the capital of Ostergotland, with 11,700 inhab., and
the residence of the 'Landshofding' and the bishop, lies on the W.
bank of the Stanga, recently rendered navigable, and 31/2 Engl. M.
from Lake Roxen (p. 304), by means of which it is thus connected
with the Gota Canal. Linkoping is a place of ancient origin. It
was formerly called Liongakopunger ('town of the place of assize'),
and possessed a cathedral and a bishop so far back as the 12th
century. Municipal privileges were granted to the town by
Gustavus Vasa. In 1598 Sigismund was defeated by Duke Charles
at the Stangebro , and his adherents were afterwards executed at
Linkoping in 1600 (the 'Linkoping Blood-bath'), the place of
execution being now marked by a circle of stones in the Jerntorg.
On the Qumpekulla , by the locks of Nyqvarn , a little below the
town, stands a stone commemorating the battle of Stangebro.

The *Domkyrka, the finest edifice at Linkoping, begun in
1150 and completed in 1499, is in the Romanesque style, with
a Gothic choir. The tower was not completed till 1886. Next to
the cathedral of Upsala, this is the longest church in Sweden
(320 ft.). The vaulting is borne by ten handsome pillars on each
side. The old Altar-piece, by Heemskerk (d. 1574), aDutch master,
purchased by John II. for 1200 measures (7500 cubic ft.) of wheat,
now stands by the S. wall. Its former place is occupied by a co-
lossal figure of Christ, surrounded by Faith, Hope, and Charity,
in plaster, after Bystrom. Reliefs of the 14th cent, representing
the life of Christ, are immured in the wall behind the altar. The
church was restored in 1849-70. The veTger lives in the vicinity.

The Lands fbrsamlingens-Kyrka, or Church of the Estates, also
known as the St. Larskyrka , contains pictures by Horberg, a self-
taught peasant artist , whose works are to be met with in various
parts of Sweden. The Library in the old gymnasium contains a
valuable collection of rare books, MSS., coins, and antiquities
(Tues. and Sat., 11-1 ; at other times apply to the librarian, Mr.
Segersteen, Nyqvarns-Gatan, who himself owns a good collection of
paintings). — Pleasant walks are afforded by the park of the
Tradgardsforening , to the S. of the town (entrance in the Drott-
ning-Gatan).

The Kinda Canal, SO Kil. (50 Engl. M.) in length, completed ino1871,
connects Linkoping with several higher-lying lakes to the S. : Erlangen
(185ft. above the sea-level), on the N. bank of which lies the large estate
of Slurefors; Renc/en (2(5 ft0), with the estates of Saby and BroUnd; then
Jernlunden (280 ft.) ; lastly Asunden (280 ft.), connected with the last by the
Tlimforsstrom. The last steamboat-station is Horn (steamer thrice a week).
These lakes form different basins of the Stanga, and the ascent is effect
ed by means of fifteen locks. The scenery is pleasing the whole way.

Beyond Linkoping the train crosses the Stanga by a bridge
200 yds. long, and traverses a fertile tract with several churches.
132 Kil. Linghem; 139 Kil. Oistad. It then crosses the Qbta Ca-
nal (p. 304) by a curious swing-bridge , commanding a pleasant
view of Lake Roxen.

to Stockholm. NORRKOPING. 41. Route. 309

145 Kil. (90 M.) Norsholm (Jernvcigs-Hotellet) is the junc-
tion of two branch-railways and is also a steamboat-station (see
p. 305).

From Norsholm to Vestervik, 118 Kil. (73 Engl. M.), railway in 7 hrs.
(fares 8 kr. 85, 5 kr. 45 6.). — 5 Kil. Skdrkind; 10 Kil. Halleby; 13 Kil.
Ringttorp; 17 Kil. Hbfvenby; 23 Kil. Bjbrsater; 27 Kil. Lalcvik; 33 Kil.
Beribo. „

42 Kil. (26 M.) Atvidaberg (Hotel), with a tasteful modern church and
important Copper Mines, a visit to which occupies one day. The bottom
of the mine at Beribo (1248 ft.) is reached by a small steam-car called
a 'dog' in 6 minutes. The Mormorsgrufva ('grandmother's mine'), to the
W. of Atvidaberg, is 1320 ft. deep. Among the interesting works which
deserve a visit are the Bredbergska Hytta, the Vandrost-Hus, the Slora
Hylta , the Raffinad-Hylla , the Kopparsmedja , and the Laboratory. In
1869 the yield reached 1315 tons, but it has diminished of late years.

The scenery of the district of Tjuit , through which we next pass,
though little visited by tourists, is among the finest in Sweden.

51 Kil. (32 M.) Forsaslrom; 58 Kil. Falerum (fine view from the
station), 67 Kil. Nelhammar; 71 Kil. Storijo; 82 Kil. 6/verum, with a
foundry belonging to an English company; 94 Kil. Gamleby; 202 Kil.
Almvik; 114 Kil. Jenny.

118 Kil. (73 M.) Vestervik (Hdlel du Nord; Sladhuset), an old town
with 6600inhab., situated at the entrance to the Gamlebyvik and possess-
ing large shipbuilding yards. It was repeatedly destroyed during the wars
between the Danes and Swedes. Near the town is the ruined castle of
Stdkeholm. — Vestervik is about 60 Engl. M. from Visby on the island
of Gotland, to which a steamer plies on Wed. at 7 p.m. (see p. 377).

From Vestervik via Ankavsrum to Hultsfred (70 Kil. or 44 M.), see p. 393.

From Norsholm to Palsboda, 85 Kil. (53 Engl. M.), narrow-gauge rail-
way in 4-41/2 hrs. (fares 6 kr., 4 kr.). — The intermediate stations are un-
important. The train skirts the W. bank of Lake Glan to (27 Kil.)
Finspong, with a cannon-foundry and a large chateau and park. — 79 Kil.
Svennevad, at the W. end of Lake Sottern. — Palsboda, see p. 297.

At (154 Kil.) Okna the train reaches Lake Glan (70 ft.), which
it skirts to (159 Kil.) Eksund. Beyond Eksund the train crosses
the Motala , the outlet of Lake Vettern (p. 299) , and reaches
(162 Kil.) Fiskeby. Then —

168 Kil. (104M.)Norrkoping(*Cen«m«Hotef, with cafe'; Stora
Hotel, with cafe, in the Karl-Johans-Torg ; Bellevue, Skeppsbron;
Hotel du Nord), a busy manufacturing and seaport town with
29,300 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the Motala, at its influx
into the Bravik. The town was founded in 1384, but was plundered
and burned down by the Danes in 1567 and by the Russians in
1719. Several diets of the estates have been held here, and among
them that of 1604 at which Charles IX. was elected king. Gusta-
vus IV. was crowned here in 1800. Owing to several great fires
by which it has been visited , the town now presents an entirely
modern and somewhat uninteresting appearance. The water-power
afforded by the Motala, which flows through the whole town , is
utilised by numerous manufactories. An interesting walk may be
taken along the upper part of the river, where the water dashes
over rocks, turns a number of wheels, disappears among manufac-
tory buildings, and re-appears to be immediately used for some
new purpose. The principal *Bridges are the stone Bergsbro, con-

310 Route 41. NORRKOPING.

structed in 1775 ; the Jernbro, or iron bridge, of 1832; the Oscar-
Fredriksbro, adjoining the Karl-Johans-Torg (1837); and the iron
Spangbro, or foot-bridge (1863). Between the Bergsbro and the
Jernbro are the Bruksholm and the Laxholm, islands which are also
connected with the town by bridges. Visitors are admitted to some
of the factories. Those who desire special information should apply
to the manager. — On the lower part of the river, where it subsides
into a calm and navigable stream, there are also several large fac-
tories, chiefly of cloth, worsted, and cotton goods, whichhave earned
for Norrkoping the title of the 'Swedish Manchester'. Gamla Varfvet
('the old wharf) with its dock is an extensive establishment, and
the Motala Varf, to the E. of the town, where cannon-boats and
monitors are constructed, is particularly interesting.

The handsomest modern buildings are in or near the Karl-
Johans- Tory , where the two principal hotels , the post-office , the
town-hall, and the theatre are situated. It is embellished with a
Statue of Charles XI V. John (Bernadotte), by Schwanthaler, erected
in 1846. The Arbetare-Foreningens-Hus , containing a large hall
and museum , is a very large edifice, and still more imposing is
the Hogre Elementarlaroverkets - Hus (grammar and commercial
school), on a height on the S.W. side of the town, erected in
1868 at a cost of 600,000 kr.

Favourite places of recreation in the vicinity are Stromsholmen
( *Restaurant), where concerts are frequently given, and the Stad-
husgarden.

The Steamboat Votage to or from Stockholm will be preferred by
many to the train. The vessels (four times weekly, at 8 p.m.) ply at
night, affording a beautiful view of Lake Miilaren on arriving or on
starting. This route is also recommended to travellers intending to take
the Gota Canal route from Norsholm to Gothenburg, or to those who
have arrived at Norsholm [from Gothenburg, and is preferable to the
steamboat-route between Stockholm and Norsholm via Soderkoping.

Beyond Norrkoping and (176 Kil.) Aby the train traverses a
wooded plateau , about 400 ft. in height, called Kolmarden , the
once dreaded frontier-region between Sbdermanland andOstergot-
land, infested with robbers and outlaws. Near Tvardala it passes
through a tunnel and then as«ends gradually to (179 Kil.) Oraf-
i-crsfors. Farther on it crosses the bays of the pretty lake of
Ndckten by means of embankments, and threads a larger tunnel.
191 Kil. Simonstorp (Inn), with the lake of Fldten (200 ft.) on
the right. 205 Kil. Strangsjo. The scenery is uninteresting.

216 Kil. (134 M.) Katrineholm, and thence to Stockholm, see
p. 297.

42. From Charlottenberg to Stockholm.

432 Kil. (258 Engl. M.J. Railway in 15-19 hrs. (fares 30 kr. 40,
22 kr. 35, 14 kr. 206.; express 36 kr. 406.J. From Christiania to Char-
lottenberg, see R. 32. — Between Christiania and Stockholm there are two
through-trains daily in 16-17'/2 and 27-30 hrs., the latter allowing 3'/» hrs.

CHARLOTTENBERG. 42. Route. 311

rest at Laxa, where rooms are fitted up at the station lor the purpose
(fares 46 kr. 80, 37 kr. 50, 22 kr. 356.). The slower trains stop for the night
at Kongsvinger, where the hotels are apt to he uncomfortably crowded.
Comp. p. 275.

At Charlottenberg (*Rail. Restaurant, D. li/2 kr.), the first
Swedish station, passengers to or from Stockholm change carriages.
Travellers' luggage entering Sweden undergoes a slight custom-
house examination here , while that of travellers in the reverse
direction is examined at Christiania. It will strike the traveller
as somewhat absurd that these two little kingdoms, united under
one sovereign, should have different tariffs of customs-dues. Each
traveller may pass duty-free 10 lbs. of tobacco, '20 bottles of spirits,
and other articles to the value of 40 kr.

The railway from Charlottenberg to Laxa (Nordveslra-Stambana) tra-
verses the Vermland , a province where lakes and forests abound, and
rich in iron and other ores. This once sequestered region has recently
been opened up by a network of new railways and canals. The Vermland
is famous as the birthplace of Tegnir and Geijer, and Us praises have
been sung by Fryxell in his beautiful Vermlandsvisa. The railway-
traveller will see but little of the attractions of this district. An excursion
is therefore recommended from Kil to Fryktlad and the Fryken Lakes
(p. 312). Another pleasant digression may be made from Christinehamn to
the prettily-situated Filipstad (p. 313).

Leaving Charlottenberg, the train passes the By-Sjo (270 ft.)
on the right, and next stops at (14 Kil.) Amot on the Flagan-Sjo,
where an extensive view is obtained. Pretty scenery. 25 Kil. Ottebol.

34 Kil. (21 Engl. M.) Arvika (Hotel Kristiania; Stadshuset;
*Rail. Restaurant), with 1300 inhab., is beautifully situated on the
Olafsfjord, here called the Elgafjord, which is connected with Lake
Venern by means of the Seffle Canal. (Steamer to Seffle and Amal
six times, to Venersborg and Gothenburg once weekly.) This long
stretch of water is interesting from the fact that it marks the ancient
bed of the Glommen, which once fell into Lake Venern, but now
turns to the W. at Kongsvinger (comp. p. 275). During the melt-
ing of the snow, part of the water of the Glommen still finds its
way into its old channel. In the vicinity is the Arvika Helsobrunn
('sanitary spring'). Several iron-works , glass-works , and other
manufactories. On the E. bank of the fjord are the pleasant estates
of Vik, Skonoik, and Sund.

Passing through several cuttings and a tunnel , the train next
stops at (49 Kil.) Edane, beyond which it crosses the picturesque
Vermelen-Sjo (180 ft.) by a viaduct , 710 yds. long , and 105 ft.
above the water at the highest point , and passes through another
tunnel, 900 yds. long. 56 Kil. Brunsberg; 66 Kil. Boda; 77 Kil.
Fageras. Scenery less attractive. The train crosses the Nors-Elf,
the discharge of the Fryken Lakes, by means of an iron *Bridge,
585 ft. long and 63 ft. in height, resting on iron pillars and massive
granite foundations, the construction of which was attended with
great difficulty owing to the soft character of the alluvial soil. About
5 Kil. to the S. is the Edsvalla Bruk, from which a steamboat plies
to Lake Venern. A little beyond this bridge the train reaches —

312 Routed?. KARLSTAD.

82 Kil. (51 M.) Kil (352ft. ; Jernvags Hotel, R. V/2, B. 1/2 kr.,
well spoken of), the junction for the Gothenburg and Falun railway
(R. 49), and of a short branch-line to Fryksta or Frykstad (9 min.),
on the Nedre Fryken Lake (195 ft.).

From Frykstad a pleasant excursion may be taken to the three "Fryken
Lakes (Nedre, Mellan, and Ofvre Fryken). A steamboat leaves Frykstad
three times a week, in connection with the train from Kil, for Torsby-Bruk,
at the N. end of the highest of the lakes, which it reaches in 5 hrs., return-
ing on the following day. — The Fryksdal, a valley 80-90 Kil. (50-55 Engl. M.)
in length , is one of the most beautiful in Sweden, but the long steam-
boat-journey to Torsby and back is rather fatiguing. It is preferable
to land at Rotlneros Bruk between the central and the upper lake, visit the
Fall of the Rottna-Elf, and proceed to Sunne (Hotel), another pretty place,
where Anders Fryxell (d. 1881 at Stockholm), the author of an important
history of Sweden and of the poem 'Vermlandsvisa', was once pastor. —
In the vicinity are several large iron-works , some of which belong to
the Edsvalla Bruks Bolag. — The scenery of Ofvre or Norra Fryken is
grander than that of the lower lakes.

The next station is (95 Kil.) Skare. Then —
102 Kil. (63 M.) Karlstad (*Stads-Hotellet, R. and B. 3</2 kr. ;
Hotel Kristiania ; Rail. Restaurant; restaurant and music at the
Tradgardsforening ; Attkanten, a favourite resort to the S.E. of the
town ; post and telegraph-office at the town-hall, in the Stora
Torg), the capital of Vermland, with 8100 inhab., entirely rebuilt
after a Are in July 1865, is picturesquely situated on the Tingoal-
lao, at the influx into Lake Venern of the Klar-Elf, which descends
from the Norwegian mountains. This is a commercial place of con-
siderable importance. The broad streets are flanked with hand-
some houses, and some of them are planted with trees. Among the
chief buildings are the Gymnasium, the Frimurarloge, and the
Stadshotel. Pleasant promenades in the environs. Steamboat thrice
weekly to the principal places on Lake Venern, and to Gothenburg
via Venersborg.

From Karlstad or from Kil a visit may be paid to the Valley of the
Klar-Elf. The train may be taken to Deje (p. 365), a station on the Falun
Railway (Bergslagemas-Bana), 10 Engl. M. above Kil, whence we proceed
to Ransater (the birthplace of Geijer), and Uddeholm (p. 365), where the Elf-
dal strictly so called begins. Beyond it the valley ascends into the most
sequestered districts of Vermland and to the grand, mountain-chain which
separates Sweden from Norway. The last region in Sweden is the Finskog
('forest of the Finns'), inhabited by Finns who were established here in the
reign of Charles IX., and who still differ from the Swedes in customs
and physique. — Beyond the frontier the scenery becomes even wilder and
more desolate, especially in the neighbourhood of the Fcemund-Sjei (ca.
2300 ft.), the source of the Klar-Elf, which is at first called the Fwmunds-
Elv and afterwards the Tryssil. Comp. p. 211.

The train now skirts the N. bank of the vast Lake Venern
(p. 293), of which, however, little is seen, and passes over six long
bridges and a number of embankments, the construction of which
was very costly. 113 Kil. Skattkiirr; 125 Kil. Vase; 134 Kil. dime.

142 Kil. (88 M.) Christinehamn (Jernvags-Hotel; Stora Hotellet ;
Hotel Svea), a small trading town, with 5500 inhab., lies on the
Svarta and the Varnumsvik, a bay of Lake Venern.

OREBRO. 43. Route. 313

Fkom Chkistinehamn to Filipstad, 58 Kil. (36 M.), railway in 2>/s-
33A hrs. (fares 4 kr. 50, 2kr. 65 6.). Stations : Ncissundet, Storfors, Nykroppa,
Herrhult (junction for the Kil-Falun railway, p. 365), and Qammalkroppa.
At Nyhyltcm the railway forks, the right branch leading to Persbevg on
Lake Yngen, the left to Filipstad (see p. 365).

Beyond (154 Kil.) Bjbrneborg the structure of the railway, which
now skirts Lake Visman, is itself an object of interest. 165 Kil.
Karlskoga, whence a branch-line runs to theN. toZVora(and thence
to Dylta) and another to the S. to Gullspang and Otterbacken on
Lake Venern. 168 Kil. Degerfors, from which another branch-line
runs to the N. to Vikersvik and Striberg. Between these lines lies
Lake Mbckeln (295 ft.). 180 Kil. Svarta; 191 Kil. Hasselfors.

The train now passes the baths of Porla Helsobrunn, and reaches
(203 Kil. or 126 M.) Laxa, (p. 296). From Laxa. to (432 Kil. or
258 Engl. M.) Stockholm, see pp. 297, 298.

43. From Hallsberg to Orebro, Hoping, and
Stockholm.

242 Kil. (150 Engl. M.). Railway in 7s/t-15V3 hrs., one through-train
daily (fares 16 kr. 75, 12 kr. 85, 8 kr. 70 6. ; express 17 kr. 15 o., 13 kr.).

Travellers who have already seen the finest parts of the Gota
Canal and Lake Vettern , described inR.'40, may with the aid
of the railway described in the present route visit some of the
most interesting points on Lake Malaren on their way to Stock-
holm. From Motala (p. 302) they proceed by railway in 3-4 hrs.
to Hallsberg, and thence to Roping or Vesteras , from either of
which the banks of Lake Malaren may be conveniently explored
by steamboat. Or they may now confine their attention to the
N. bank of that lake, leaving the more picturesque S. bank to
be visited from Stockholm. The chief points of interest are best
combined by taking the train to Vesteras, crossing the lake thence
by train to Eskilstuna, driving thence to Strengnas and Mariefred,
and completing the journey to Stockholm by steamer (comp. R.44).

The railway traverses a fertile district and passes several of the
oldest towns in Sweden, but the scenery is uninteresting until Lake
Malaren is reached, and there it is preferable to quit the train.

Hallsberg, see p. 297. The first important station is —

25 Kil. (151/2 Engl. M.) Orebro (Orebro Hotel; Central Hotel;
Jernvags-Hotel) , one of the most ancient towns in Sweden, with
13,000 inhab., mentioned in history as early as the 11th century.
No fewer than fifteen diets of the Estates were held here, and here
the destinies of the country have frequently been decided. At the
important diet of 1540 the succession to the crown, originally elec-
tive, was declared to be thenceforward hereditary, and in 1810
Bernadotte was elected crown-prince here. Orebro was the birth-
place of Engelbrekt, a powerful Swedish noble, who was elected
administrator of the Kingdom in 1435, and who held the surround-
ing country as a fief of the crown (comp. p. lviii). The town lies

314 Route 43. ARBOGA. From Hallsberg

in a flat district, near the bank of Lake Hjelmaren (75 ft.), and is
intersected by the Svarta. It is now quite a modern-looking place,
having been in great part rebuilt after a fire in 1854. The hand-
some Drottning-Gata traverses the town from N. to S. The hand-
somest edifice is the modern Gothic Town Hall ('Stadshuset'), in
the Stora Torg. In front of it rises Engelbrekfs Statue by Qvarn-
strom, erected in 1865. The Theatre and the Allmanna Laroverket
or Karolinska Skolan (containing a small museum) are also hand-
some buildings. In front of the latter rises an Obelisk to the memory
of the brothers Olaus and Laurentius Petri, the Swedish reformers
(p. lxix). The only ancient buildings are the Castle (now occupied
by public offices), with its four round towers, situated on an island
in the river, and the Church, which has been partly modernised.
The castle was once besieged by Engelbrekt, afterwards by Sten
Sture the Elder (d. 1503), and by Gustavus I. (d. 1560). It was
then rebuilt by Gustavus, and completed by Charles IX. (d. 1611).
— Walks to Skebaek on Lake Hjelmaren and to Adolf 'sbery , a
small watering-place to the S., on the railway.

From Orebro a Steamboat plies once weekly to .Stockholm via the
Hjelmare Canal. It first crosses Lake Hjelmaren (75 ft.; 46 Engl. M. long,
6-10 M. wide) and then proceeds through the Hjelmare Canal to the
Arbogaa (see below), which it follows to Kungsbr, on Lake Malaren. Then
by the last-named lake to Stockholm. — Another steamer ('Sven Rinmann'J
plies thrice weekly to Skogstorp, which is within '/» hr. of Eskilstuna
(p. 354) by railway. — Lake Hjelmaren is destitute of pretty scenery, but
its pikes and crabs are considered great delicacies. A monument has
been erected on the Engelbreklsholm, in the W. part of the lake, on the
spot where Engelbrekt was assassinated by Mans Bengtson in 1436. Near
the mouth of the canal is Count Platen's chateau of Stora Sunday, erected
in the early-English style by Robinson.

Soon after leaving Orebro the train stops at (37 Kil. from Halls-
berg) Dylta Bruk , where a branch - line diverges to Nora and
Karlskoga on the Nordvestra Stambana (p. 313). 41 Kil. Ervalla.

50 Kil. (31 M.) Frovi is the junction of a line to Ludvika.

Fkom Fkovi to Ludvika , 98 Kil. (61 Engl. M.) , railway in 5'/2 hrs.
(fares 7 kr. 35, 5 kr. 40, 3 kr. 70 6.). This industrially important railway
traverses a very rich mining-district (iron , copper , lead). The scenery
between Linde and Kopparberg is picturesque. — 10 Kil. Vedevag.

19 Kil. (12 M.) Linde (Hotel) , with 1500 inhab., is prettily situated
between the two lakes of that name. The church and a great part of the
town were rebuilt after a fire in 1869. The train then skirts the E. bank
of Lake Rossvalen to Gusselby, Stora (whence a branch-line diverges to the
silver-mines of Guldsmedshytlan) , Vasselhyttan, Rallsa, and Bangbro (branch
tn Bcmghammar, Kblsjon , and Kloteii). 55 Kil. (34 M.) Kopparberg (Ho-
tel) is an important mining place, with copper, lead, and zinc -mines
in the vicinity. 63 Kil. Stalldalen, where the line crosses the Bergsla-
gernas-Bana (R. 49), with which it afterwards runs nearly parallel to
Ludvika. The next stations are Stallberg , Hbrk , Grdngesberg , Bjorn-
hytlan, and Gonas. Then —

98 Kil. (61 M.) Ludvika, see p. 365.

55 Kil. Ullersater; 64 Kil. Fellingsbro; lb Kil. Jdders Bruk.

79 Kil. (49 M.) Arboga (Hotel; Gastgifvaregard) , a town
with 3900 inhab. , was anciently a place of much importance.
Thirty-two diets of the Estates have been held here at different

to Stockholm. VESTERAS. 43. Route. 315

periods. At one of these , in 1435, Engelbrekt, and at another,
in 1471 , Sten Sture the Elder, were chosen administrators. In
1561 the important Articles of Arboga were passed at another diet
here. Arboga has frequently been a residence of the Swedish
kings, and in the time of Gustavus Vasa had a mint of its own.
The Parish Church contains a Descent from the Cross , ascribed to
Rembrandt. By means of the navigable Arbogaa, on which tho
town lies, and the Hjelmare Canal, Lakes Hjelmaren and Malaren
are connected. ; — Steamboat to Stockholm thrice weekly.

87 Kil. Valskog is the junction for Thorshalla and Eskilstuna
(see p. 353).

96 Kil. (59'/2M.) Koping (Jernvags-Hotellet ; Kopings-Hotel), a
town with 3500 inhab., lies on the river of the same name, near
Lake Malaren. Steamboats to Stockholm daily. As the Tailway-
journey on the N. bank of the lake is uninteresting, many travel-
lers will prefer to proceed by steamer from Koping to Thorshalla
andStrengnas, drive to Mariefred, and take another steamer thence
to Stockholm. With regard to the lake and the principal places
on its banks, see R. 44. ■ — About 1 Engl. M. from Koping is
Johannisdal, a small watering-place. Branch-line from Koping to
theN.W. to (34 Kil.) Uttersberg and (46 Kil.) Ridderhyttan, pass-
ing a number of considerable iron-works and factories.

106 Kil. Munktorp. 112 Kil. Kolback, where the train crosses
the Stromsholm Canal (p. 365), is the junction for the Rekarne and
Eskilstuna line (p. 353), the first station of which is (8 Kil.) Stroms-
holm (p. 366), at the beginning of the canal. 121 Kil. Dingtuna.

131 Kil. (81 M.) Vesteras (Central Hotel; Hotel Vesteras ; Hotel
Klippan; Nya Hotellet), with 6700 inhab., the capital of a district
and an episcopal see. The name is a contraction of Vestra Aros
('W. mouth'), a title given to the place to distinguish it from Ostra
Aros (Upsala). It was anciently a town of considerable importance
and possessed a Dominican monastery and several churches and cha-
pels. No fewer than eleven national diets were held here, the most
important being that of 1527, which suppressed the Roman Catholic
church in Sweden, and that of 1844, which settled the succession
to the throne on Vasa's heirs. The principal edifice is the hand-
some Gothic *Cathedral, founded in the 11th cent., enlarged by
Birger Jarl and consecrated anew in 1271, afterwards frequently
altered, and finally restored in 1850-60. The tower, added in the
18th cent., is the highest in Sweden (310 ft.). The altar-piece
dates from the beginning of the 16th century. Svante Sture, the
administrator (d. 1512), and Eric XIV. (d. 1577) lie buried here.
A marble sarcophagus was erected in memory of the latter by
Gustavus III. The tomb of the regent Magnus Brahe (d. 1844)
is marked by a marble monument. The Episcopal Library of
12,000 vols, includes that of the Elector of Mayence brought from
Germany by Oxenstjerna and presented to the cathedral about the

316 Route U. STOCKHOLM.

year 1640. — The old Slott, on a height near the mouth of the stream,
once belonged to Josse Erikson, a robber-knight, and the terror of
the district, but about the middle of the 16th cent, was taken by
Gustavus I. , who restored and strengthened it. It was afterwards
the prison of Eric XIV. , who was poisoned at Orbyhus (p. 363) in
1577. In the 17th cent, itwas entirely re-erected after a fire, and it
is now the district seat of government. — The Vasa Park, to the E.
of the Town Hall, occupies the site of the monastery and contains a
bust of Vasa in memory of the diet of 1527. The cucumbers and
other vegetables grown at Vesteras enjoy a considerable reputation.
— Steamer on the Malaren to Stockholm daily (6-7 hrs.)

141 Kil. Tillberga is the junction of branch-lines to the N. to
(28 Kil.) Sola (p. 369), and to the W., via (28 Kil.) Ramnas,
Enyelsberg on the Stromsholms Canal (see p. 366), and Norberg
(with important iron-mines), to (68 Kil.) Karrgrufvan and Krylbo
(p. 369). — 147Kil. Tortuna; 154Kil. Orresta; 160 Kil. Lundby.

168 Kil. (84 M.) Enkoping (Stads-Hotellet), a town with 2100
inhab., lies on the river of the same name, 4 Engl. M. from Lake
Malaren (steamboat to Stockholm). Pretty scenery and numerous
market-gardens here. — 178 Kil. Grillby; 186 Kil. Ekolsund, be-
yond which the train crosses the Ekolsundsvik by a bridge 300 yds.
long; 195 Kil. Balsta; 206 Kil. Bro; 214 Kil. Kungsangen. The
train now crosses the long northern ramification of Lake Malaren
at a narrow part of it called Staket. 225 Kil. Jakobsberg ; 231 Kil.
Spanga; 236 Kil. Sundbyberg. To the right is the castle of Karls-
berg (p. 346), to the left the factories of Rorstrand and Atlas (p. 346).
The train skirts the Rorstrandsviken.

242 Kil. (150 M.) Stockholm, see below.

44. Stockholm and its Environs.

Arrival. Travellers arriving at Stockholm by railway alight at the
Centkal Station (Central Bangarden; PI. C, 3, 4), situated in a large open
space facing the Klara-Strand-Gata, and about 7 minutes'' walk from the
Norrbro and the principal hotels. Omnibuses from the principal hotels
meet each train (fare 75 6.). Cab with one horse for 1-2 persons 1 kr., 3-4
persons 1 kr. 25 o. ; each trunk 20 6., for three or more 50 6. (at night,
11-6 o'clock, one fare and a half). Porterage for each package to or from
the cab or omnibus 10 ii. ; to one of the hotels 25-30 ci. An Interpreter,
recognisable by his official cap, meets the trains and gives information to
strangers (no fee). — Those who arrive by the lake route from Gothen-
burg , or by a coasting steamer from the S., land at the Kiddarholm
Quay (PI. D, 5), on the W. side of the Riddarholm ; while the usual landing-
place for travellers from the N. or E. is the Skeppsbko (PI. E, F, 4, 5) or
the Blasieholms-Hamnen (PI. E, F, 4). Comp. p. 320. Cab-fare as above;
no hotel-omnibuses on the quays.

Hotels. Grand Hotel (PI. a; E,F, 3), Blasieholms-Hamnen, a very
large and handsome building, with reading-room, telegraph office, etc.,
beautifully situated, and commanding a fine view of the Palace and the busy
traffic of the quays and harbour ; "Kyoberg (PI. b ; D, F, 4), Gustaf-Adolfs-
Torget, facing the Norrbro, also well situated and more central, but better
adapted for men of business. These hotels belong to the same proprietor.
The charges at the former are somewhat higher (rooms at both from

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Key to the Flan of Stockholm.

Akademier (Academies) :

1. Akad. for de fria konsterna

(Academy of Arts) . . . . D,4

2. LandbrukB-akademi (Agri-

cultural Academy) .... D, 3
Musikaliska akademi (Aca-
demy of Music) C, 3

4. Vetenskaps - akademi (Aca-

demy of Science) . . . . C, 1, 2

5. Archives (Riks-Arkivet) . . D, 5
6.' Badinrattningar (Baths)

D, 3, 4; D, 5; E, 4; F, 4
Banegardar (Railway - Sta-
tions C, 3, 4; E, 7

Banker (Banks) :

7. Riksbanken (National Bank) F, 5

8. SkandinaviskaKredit-Aktie-

bolag (Scandinavian Joint
Stock Bank) E, 5

9. Stockholms Enskilda Ban-

ken (Private Bank). . . . E, 5

10. Barnbordshuset (Lying-in

Hospital) A, 4; D, 2

Bergsskolan(Mining-School),
Drottning-Gatan B, 1

11. Biblioteket, Riks (National

Library) E. 1

Bildstoder (Monuments) :
Berzelius, in the Berzelii

Park E, 3

Birger Jarl D, 5

Charles XII E, 3

Charles XIII E, 3

Charles XIV. John . . . . E, 6
Gustavus Adolphus .... E, 4

Gustavus III E, F, 4

Gustavus Vasa D, 5

Linnaeus E, 1

12. Biirsen (Exchange) E, 5

13. Etnograflska samlingen,

Skandinavisk (now North-
ern Museum) C, 2

Farmaceutiska Institutet
(Pharmaceutical Institute) B, C, 2

14. Flottans forradshus (Marine

Arsenal) G, 5

15. Frimurarelogen (Freema-
sons' Lodge) F, 3

16. Gymnasium(GrammarSchool) D,5

17. Gymnastiska Institutet . . D, 3
Hasselbacken I, 4

18. Hofriitt, kongl. Svea (Court

of Appeal for the districts
of Svearike, Norrland, and
the Island of Gotland) . . D, b
Kyrfror (Churches):

19. Konstforeningen (Art Union) E, 3

Adolf Fredriks kyrkan . C, 1, 3

20. Blasieholms kyrkan .... F, 3

21. Engelska kyrkan (English

Church) B, 2

22. Finska kyrkan (Finnish
Church) E, 5

Hedvik Eleonora kyrkan . F, 2

Jakobs kyrkan E, 3

Johannis kyrkan D, 1

Karl Johans kyrkan .... G, 4

Katarina kyrkan F, 7

Katolska kyrkan (Rom.

Cath. Church) D, 3

Klara kyrkan D, 3

Maria kyrkan E, 6, 7

Riddarholms kyrkan . . . D, 5
Ryska kvrkan (Russian

Church) " C, 1

Skeppsholms kyrkan, see

Karl Johans kyrkan.

Storkyrkan E, 4, 5

Tyska kyrkan (German

Church) E, 5

Ulrika Eleonoras kyrkan . B, 4

Mosebacken F. G

Myntet, kongl. (Royal Mint) B, 4

National Museum F, 4

Northern Museum, see No. 13.

Observatory B, 1

Ofverstatthallarehuset

(Governor's House) . . . E, 4, 5
Palats, Arfprinsens (Palace
of the Crown Prince) . . . D, 4
Poliskammaren (PoliceOffice) D, 4
Posthuset (Post Office) . . D, 4
Radhuset (Town Hall). . D, 4, 5

Riddarhuset D, 5

Riksdagshuset (House of

Parliament) D, 5

Sallskabet (a club) .... E, 3
Serafimer Lasarettet

(Hospital) B, C, 4

Slojdskolan (Industrial

School) D, 3

Slottet, kongl. (RoyalPalace) E, 4
Synagogan (Synagogue) . . E, 3

23.

24.

29.

38.

47.

Teatrar (Theatres):

Kongl. Stora Teatern . . E, 3, 4

Dramatiska Teatern E, 3

Blasieholms Teatern .... F, 3

Djurgards Teatern .... I, 3

Sodra Teatern F, (i

Tekniska Skolan, see Slojd-
skolan

Tekniska Hogskolan .... B, 1
Telegrafen E, F, 4

a. Grand Hotel
b Rydberg . .

Hotels.

E, F, 3 I c. Kung Karl D, 3

. . U,4 I d. Bellevue E, 3

318 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Cafes.

2kr. upwards., A. 50 and 35 ii., L. TO o., B. 1 lcr.). Both also have good
restaurants, that at the Rydberg being the better and slightly less ex-
pensive. Travellers are quite at liberty to take their meals where they
please. Table d'hote at the Grand Hotel in summer only. — "Hotel Rung
Karl (PI. c; D, 3), at the S. end of BrunkebergS-Torget, not far from the
Norrbro, R. from 1 kr. 50 6., A. 35 6., with an excellent restaurant at-
tached. '-Hotel W 6 (pronounced vay sex, the name of a society), opposite
the central station, new, with good restaurant (table d'hote with wine,
2kr.). — Hotel Bellevue (PI. d; E, 3), Gustaf-Adolfs-Torget 12, chiefly
frequented by commercial men ; Hotel Hamburger Bors, Jakobs-Gatan 6,
behind the Rydberg, with restaurant, well spoken of; Kung Kaels Annex,
Rege'rings-Gatan 13, R. from 1 kr. 50 6. ; Hotel Germania, Gustaf-Adolfs-
Torget 10; Kanan, Brunkebergs-Torget 16; Hotel de Suede, Drottning-
Gatan 43; Rosenbad, Akademi-Granden (PI. D, 4), near the Post Office,
quiet (no restaurant). All these last are second-class. — In the Norra
Smedje-Gatan (PI. D, 3), at the back of the Rydberg, in a quiet and con-
venient situation : Hotels Gustaf Vasa, de France, Stettin, Victoria,
and Skandinavia, all unpretending, but tolerable. — Furnished rooms at
Miss Peterson's, Drottning-Gatan SO B.

Restaurants. N. Side of the City: "Rydberg and "Kung Karl are the
best, and the charges are reasonable ; Grand Hotel, fairly good, but more
expensive; Cafi du Bazar, on the Norrbro, above the Stromparterre(p. 323);
"Phoenix, Drottning-Gatan 71 C, adjoining the Northern Museum (p. 330);
H6tel du Nord, Lilla Tradgards-Gatan, near the Dramatiska Teater:
"Opera Kdllaren, in the Stora Teater (p. 329), entered from the Arsenals-
Gatan, much frequented; "Hamburger Bors (see above); "Jones's drill Room,
Jakobs-Torg 3; Restaurant du Sud, in the building of the elevator Maria-
Hissen, Soder Malar Strand; "Hotel W 6 , see above; Cafi - Restaurant
Anglais , Stureplan 1 , near the Linne Park ; at Bern's Salong (table
d'hote with music in summer, i3/t kr.), much frequented; Stromsborg,
on the island between the new bridge and the railway-bridge (reach-
ed from the latter , or by ferry), see p. 328. — In Staden (the island
forming the central quarter of the city, p. 323) : Iduna, Lilla Ny-Gatan 4 ;
Rosengren's Kallare, Salvii-Granden 18. — S. Side of the City : "Mosebacken,
in the market of that name, a fine point of view (see p. 342), table d'hote
I'/s kr. — In the Djurgard (p. 344): "Hasselbacken (music in the afternoon;
D. 3 kr.), Alhambra, both much frequented in summer, with gardens where
visitors may dine in the open air. — Most of the restaurants in the en-
virons (Drottningholm , Niicka, Ulriksdal, etc.) are poor. — The restau-
rants are shut on Sundays during church-time (principal service, 11 a.m.).

At all these restaurants visitors breakfast and dine it la carte, and
the charges vary greatly. The usual breakfast hours are between 9 and
12, the dinner hours between 2 and 6, and the supper hours from 7 to
10 o'clock. An ordinary breakfast or supper costs l'/2-2kr., and dinner
2 kr. or upwards. For the l Brannvinsbord' or 'Smorg&sbord' (side-table
with bread-and-butter, salt meats, fish, and various relishes, with 'brann-
vin' and liqueurs 'ad libitum'), which Swedish gentlemen and even ladies
freely patronise before sitting down to table, an additional charge of
30-50 ii. is made. It need hardly be said that persons unaccustomed to
such a method of stimulating the appetite can hardly resort to it with
impunity. lSexor', so called from the hour when they are usually served,
are half-portions of meat, etc., frequently ordered by persons who desire
a slight supper only. The waiters ( Vakimastare ) always expect a fee of
10 ii. or upwards from each person. Comp. p. xxv.

Cafes (Schweilzerier) at all the principal hotels and restaurants. Of
the others the pleasantest and most frequented in summer are the "Strom-
parterre (PI. E, 4; p. 323), adjoining the Xorrbro on the E. side, where
a band plays in the evening ; "Cafi du Bazar (see above), above the Striim-
parterre; Blanch's Cafi (PI. 19;oE, 3), in the Kungstriidgard (music);
Cafi- Victoria, in the Kungstradgard, well spoken of; Bern's Salong, ad-
joining the Berzelii Park (p. 329). The Stromsborg (see above) also at-
tracts many visitors in fine weather. The Hasselbacken, Novilla, Bell-
mansro, and other cafes in the Djurgard mentioned at p. 344, are also

Tramways. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 319

very favourite resorts. Bdhr^s Cafe1, in the Riddarhus-Torg (PI. D, 5), is
chiefly frequented by men of business. Each customer usually gives the
waiter a fee of 5 6. or more.

At most of the restaurants and cafes visitors deposit their hats, great-
coats, and umlftellas in a small room at the entrance, provided for this
purpose. The attendant here shows a wonderful power of recognising
the visitor at his departure, and seldom makes a mistake or requires help
in restoring his property. It is usual to give him a fee of 10 6.

Confectioners (Sockerbagerier, who generally have a Dam-Cafe4, or la-
dies' refreshment room, adjoining their shops). " OrafitrSm, Freds-Gatan 13 ;
'•'Landelius, Storkyrkobrinken 9; Ruth, Drottning-Gatan 50; Sundell, Drott-
ning-Gatan 67; Berg, Kegerings-Gatan 14; Hellbacher, Hamn- Gatan 10;
Sundberg, Vesterlang-Gatan 83.

Post Office (PI. 33; D, 4), Rodbro-Torget, halfway between the Norrbro
and the Railway Station, open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. ; Sundays 9-11, 1-2, and 7-9
o'clock. BranchOffices : Lilla Ny-Gatan 6; H6-Torgetl4;Handtverkare-Gatan
18; Riddare-Gatan 28; Got-Gatan 18. Numerous letter-boxes in the streets.

Telegraph Office (PI. 47 ; E, F, 4), Skeppsbron 2, always open. Also
at Brunkebergs-Torget 2, Handtverkare-Gatan 18, Riddare-Gatan 28, and
Sodermalms-Torget, open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Bankers. Sveriges Riksbank, Jern-Torget 55 ; Skandinaviska Kredit-
Aktiebolag, Storkyrkobrinken 7 ; Slockholms Enskilda Bank, Lilla Ny-Gatan 27;
Stockholm* Handelsbank, Kornhamns-Torget 4. Circular notes and foreign
money may be changed at any of these ; or at Belrnonte's, Kungstradgards-
Gatan 2 C, and several other money-changers.

British Minister, Sir Francis R. Plunkett, K. C. M. G. — American
Minister, Hon. Rufas Magee.

Consuls. American, Mr. N. A. Elfving, Drottning-Gatan 13; vice-con-
sul, Hr. J. A. G. M. Schiirer von Waldheim, Oxtorgs-Gatan 7. British,
Mr. R. Brummond Hay, Skeppsbron 44; viceconsul, Mr. 0. F. Olivecrona.

Cabs. Drive within the town, for l-2pers. lkr.; 3-4pers. lkr.256. ;
for one hour 1 kr. 25 or 1 kr. 50 6., for each additional V2 nr- 60 or 75 6. ;
at night, 11-6, a fare and a half; small articles of luggage free; trunk
20 6., for more than two 50 6. — For a drive to the Djurgard and other
places in the environs 2-2'/2kr. for the first hour, and l-f/4 kr. for each
additional l/2 hr. — Cab Stands near the Post Office, in the Brunkebergs-
Torg, on the Skeppsbro, in the Stor-Torg, etc.

Tramways (Sparvagar). In the smaller cars the fare is deposited in
a box as at Christiania (see p. 1). The drivers give change for sums
not exceeding 1 kr., the coin to be changed being handed to him through
the small window marked 'Vexling'. The cars of the Ring Line have
green name-boards and lanterns, the cars of the other lines have red.

1. Ring Line (fare 10 6.), every 5 minutes in each direction. From
Slussen (PI. E, F, 6) by the Skeppsbron Quay to the Norrbro (PI. E, 4),
then (to the right) by Karl den Tolftes Torget, Ostra TradgSrds- Gatan,
Norrmalms-Torget, and Norrmalms-Gatan, passing the Linne Park (Hum-
legarden) on the left, to Roslags - Torget (PI. D, 1); then through the
Tegners - Gatan and past the Adolf Fredriks - Kyrka (PI. C, 1, 2), through
the Vasa- Gatan and across the Vasabro and Lilla Ny - Gatan to Slussen
(PI. E, F, 6). — From this line diverges a branch, the Ostermalms Line,
which leads to the E. along the Linne Park and then turns to the right and
runs to the Nybro- Gatan (PI. E, F, 1). Passengers are entitled to change
from one of these lines to the other without extra charge, on demanding
a 'Fripollett'.

2. Djdkgard Line, connected with the Ring Line (fare 10 6), every
10 minutes. From Norrmalms-Torget (PI. E, 2, 3) by the Nybrohamn
and through the Ladugardslands- Strand- Gatan to the Djurgard (terminus
opposite Hasselbacken in the Allmanna-Grand ; PI. II. J, 5, 4).

3. The Kungsholms Line (fare 10 6. ; every 8 min.), starting from the
Gustaf - Adolf s-Torg, ascends along Lake Miilaren, intersects the Ring Line
at Tegeibacken, and crosses the Nya Kungsholmsbro to the Pit- Gatan.

4. The TegnArs-Gatan-'Norrtulls Line diverges at the intersection of

320 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Steamboats.

the fegntrs- Gatan and the Stora Badstu- Gatan, follows the latter, the Sur-
brunns- Gatan, and the Norrtulls- Gatan to Norrtull, close to the railway-
station of Norrtull (10 o.) , and goes on thence to Nya Kyrkogarden (fare
from Tegners-Gatan 15 o.).

5. The Sodeemalm Steam Tbamwat, starting at the Monument of
Charles XIV. John (p. 342), ascends through the Horns -Gatan, passing
the Adolfs-Frederiks-Torg, to Hornskroken (PI. B, 7). At the Adolfs-Frede-
riks-Torg (PI. D, 7) it connects with a horse-tramway ('fripollet' as above)
running to the E., through the Gbt-Gatan, Pil-Gatan, etc., to the Ersta-
Gatan (PI. H, 7).

Omnibuses every 5 min. from the Eiddarhus-Torg (p. 326; PI. D, 5),
across the Norrbro, through the Drottning-Gatan, past the Observatory,
and through the Observatorii-Gatan to the Vestmann-Gatan (fare 106.)

Steamboats. The steamboats which ply from Stockholm in every
direction are so numerous, and the maze of islands and water-ways
around the city is so complicated, that the traveller will at first be
somewhat bewildered. Before making any excursion, he should of course
consult the latest number of 'Sveriges Kommunikationer', and also the
map of the environs, and be careful to ascertain the starting-point of the
vessel. For the larger sea-going vessels the principal quays are Skeppsbron,
on the E. side of Staden (PI. F, 4, 5), and Blasieholms-Hamnen (PI. E, F, 4),
adjoining the Grand Hotel and the Museum. For the smaller sea-going and
coasting steamers the starting-point is the Riddakholm Quay on the W.
side of that island, which lies to the W. of Staden, whence most of the
Malar steamers and those bound for Gothenburg by the canal route also start.
A number of the smaller lake-steamers again have their usual berths on
the Munkbeo and the Kott-Tokg, on the W. and S.W. sides of Staden
(PI. D, E,5). The sea-going steamers will be found in the 'Kommunikatio-
ner' under the heads lNorruC, ' 6sterut\ ' SbderuV, and ' VesteruC ; see also
the heads iGota KanaV and iMalaren\ The following is, a short list of the
principal routes mentioned in the Handbook. To Gefle (p. 363) 4 times
weekly from Skeppsbron and 6 times monthly from Karl XII. '8 Torget;
to Visby thrice weekly from Riddarholmen and once weekly from Blasie-
holms-Hamnen and Klintehamn (comp. p. 377); to Kalmar (p. 391) twice
weekly from Riddarholmen, and once weekly from Blasieholms-Hamnen
(also by the Liibeck, Copenhagen, and Gothenburg steamers) ; to Gothenburg
via Kalmar, Karlskrona, Karlshamn, Malmb, and other ports three times
weekly from Riddarholmen ; to Copenhagen weekly, touching at inter-
mediate ports, from Riddarholmen ; to London fortnightly from Skepps-
bron. Steamers also sail occasionally to Hamburg, Amsterdam, Antwerp,
Havre, etc. — Steamboats on Lake Mdlaren, see pp. 342-352.

Steam Launches (Angslupar). Communication between different
parts of the city and the suburbs and immediate environs is maintained
by numerous small steam ferry-boats, which cross Lake Malaren and the
Saltsjo (p. 352) in all directions at intervals of 3-15 minutes. The fares
vary from 3 to 15 o. according to the distance. The course of these
steamers is indicated in the Plan, and it will suffice to give here a list
of those plying to the Djurgard (p. 344; every 10-15 min.).

1. From the Strbmparterre (PI. E, 4) to Alkarret (PI. H, 4); fare 10 o.

2. From Karl den Tolftes Torg (PI. E, 3, 4) to Alkarret; fare 10 o

3. From the Rantmdstaretrappa (PI. F, 5, 6) to the Jemvagen at All-
manna- Grand (PI. H, I, 3, 4; fare 5 o.) and to Dockan on Beckholmen (8o.).

4. From Skeppsholmen (PI. G, 4, 5) to Allmanna-Grand ; fare 3 o.

5. From Logardstrappan (PI. E, 4) to Blaporten (Kaptensudden ; PI. H,
3; fare 12 o.) and to Ladugurdsgardet (Hesslingeberg) and Djurgards-
brunn (15 6.).

6. 7. From Gustafs III. Staty (PI. E, F, 4) and from the Rantmastare-
trappa (PI. F, 5, 6) to Manilla (20 o.) and Blockhusudden (25 o.) on the S.
bank of the Djurgard, several times daily.

Several of the steamboat-routes to the most interesting points in the.
Environs of Stockholm are described in various parts of the text of the
Handbook. The traveller is referred for more detailed information as to

Collections, STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 321

the hours of starting, fares , etc., to the ' Fullstdndig Tabell ofver. Kom-
munikationerna inom Stockholm och (less Ndrmaste Omgifningar', or to the
second part of the Sveriges Kommunikationer (under the heading 'Stockholms
Omgifningar', with the sub-headings Malaren and Sallsjon).

Shops. Booksellers : Samson & Wallin, Drottning-Gatan 7, corner of
Freds-Gatan ; Friize, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torget 18, near the Hotel Rydberg; With.
Bille, Drottning-Gatan 25 ; Loostrom <t Co., Norrbro; Nordin <k Josephson,
Drottning-Gatan 37. — Photographer : Axel Lindahl, Eidare-Gatan 41 (pho-
tographs of Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish scenery) ; W. Eurenius, Hamn-
gatan 18. — Fishing-gear: Leidesdorffska Manufactory, Stora Ny-Gatan
12 ; Hedvall , Malmtorgs-Gatan 3. — Furs : P. N. Bergstrbm , Storkyr-
kobrinken 4 and Freds-Gatan 18. — Jewellers (antiquities, etc.) : Hammer,
Blasieholmshamn 12 ; Larson, Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg 14 ; Hallberg, Freds-Gatan
22. — Antiquities also at Bukowski's, Arsenals-Gatan 2D. — Gloves: Alb.
Schmidt, Arsenals-Gatan 8. — Swedish fancy work : Bikupan, Klara Bergs-
Gatan23; Jos. Leja, Regerings-Gatan 5. — Swedish iron and steel wares
from Eskilstuna at the depot in the Malmtorgs-Gatan.

The Swedish Magazine of Industrial Art (Svenska Konstlbjd-Utstall-
ningen), Kungstradgards-Gatan 2A, is a depot for carved woodwork in the
ancient Swedish style and other products of the national art-industries.

Baths. Jakobs-Gatan 16 (Turkish and others ; PI. 6 ; D, 4) ; GamlaNorr-
bro5(Pl. 6; E, 4) ; Badstu-Gatan4 (PI. E, 6). Swimming Bath (PI. 6; D, 5),
at the N. end of the Riddarholm ; Ladies' Baths (PI. '6 ; F, 4), adjoining the
Skeppsholms-Bro, at the S.E. end.

Theatres. Stora Teatern (PI. 40; E, 4; p. 329), admission 1-4 kr.
(prices sometimes raised); closed in summer. — Dramatiska Teatern (PI. 41 ;

E, 3), Kungstradgards-Gatan 6; admission '/a-3 kr. — Nya Teatern (PI. 42;

F, 3), Blasieholms-Gatan 4 A ; '/2-2V2kr- — P«*« Teatern, Vasa-Gatan 44, etc.
— In the Djurgard (p. 344) are the Tivoli Theatre (PI. I, 3), the Victoria
Theatre (PI. I, 3), and a Circus, open in summer only.

Music in the afternoon and evening at Hasselbacken (p. 318), at
Novilla in the Djurgard, on the Stromparterre, at Blanches Cafe" in the
Kungstradgard (p. 329), in the Berzelii Park (p. 329), and at Mosebacken
(p. 342).

Collections, etc.

"National Museum (p. 334) : "Collection of Art and Industry, on the
1st and 2nd floor, week-days (Mon. excepted) 11-3, Sun. 1-3 (on Wed.,
Thurs., & Sat. 50 6., at other times free); Egyptian Collection, Tues. & Frid.
11-3, free ; "Historical Museum (Swedish Antiquities) and Cabinet of Coins,
on the ground-floor, in winter on Frid. 12-2 and Sun. 1-3, in summer on
Frid. and Tues. 12-3 and Sun. 1-3 (on Tues. 25 o. ; at other times free).
On Monday the Museum is closed to the public, but strangers are admitted
for a fee of 1 kr., on application to the door-keeper.

Natural History Museum (p. 333), Drottning-Gatan 94, Wed. 12-2 and
Sun. 1-3, free; Sat. 12-2, 25 6. Strangers admitted at other times (1 kr.).

"Northern Museum (p. 330), Drottning-Gatan 71 A and 71 C, open on
Sun. 1-9, and Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Frid., 11-5 (admission 50 8.); 'First
Annex', Drottning-Gatan 68, first floor, same times, fee 25 6. ; 'Main Section',
Drottning-Gatan 77 & 79 (first, second, and third floors), week-days 11-5 and
Sun. 1-5 (admission 50 6.); closed on week-days at 3 p.m. in Nov., Dec,
Jan., and Feb. Tickets admitting to all the sections 75 o. Adm. at other
than the stated times, double fee.

Konslfbrening (Art Union ; p. 329), Vestra Tradgards-Gatan 10 (Blanch's
Cafe on the ground-floor) ; daily (except Mon.) 11-4, Sun. 1-4, admission 25 o.

National Library (p. 333), week-days, 11-2 (reading-room 10-3).

Agricultural Museum (p. 330), Master-Samuels-Gatan 36 (PI. C, 3),
week-days 12-3.

Artillery Museum (p. 329), Wed. 1-2.30 (10 6.), on other days on appli-
cation at the director's office to the left of the iron door.

Fishery Museum, Master-Samuels-Gatan 43, week-days 12-3, Sun. 1-3.

Geological Museum, Master-Samuels-Gatan 36, Mon. & Thurs. 1-3.

Collection of Models at the Polytechnic School (Slojdskolan, p. 330,
PI. 38; D, 3), Tues. 12-2.

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 21

322 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. History.

Museum of the Caroline Institute (PI. B, 4), Handtverkare-Gatan 3, a
medical collection, Mon. 1-3.

Riddarholms Kyrka (p. 327), in summer (May-Sept.) Tues. & Thurs.
12-2, 25 6., Sat. 12-2, free; in the other months, Tues. <fc Thurs. 12-2, on
application to the 'Vaktmastare' at the Riksmarskalks-Embetet in the S.W.
wing of the Royal Palace (25 6.).

Riddarhuset (p. 327), on week-days, on application to the 'Vaktmastare',
who is to be found till 3 p.m. in the antechamber on the first floor, to
the left. Fee 1 kr.

Royal Archives (p. 328), week-days, 10-2.30.

Royal Palace (p. 324), daily, in the absence of the royal family.

English Church (PI. 21; B, 2), Rorstrands-Gatan (p. 333); chaplain,
Rev. Frederick Case.

Principal Attractions. National Museum (p. 334) ; Northern Museum
(p. 330); Royal Palace (p. 324); Riddarholms Kyrka (p. 327); view from
the Moselacken (p. 342); walks on the Skeppsholm (p. 343) and in the
Djurgard (p. 344) ; excursions to Drottningholm (p. 348), Gripsholm (p. 350),
and to Guslavsberg (p. 352) or Vaxholm (p. 352).

Stockholm, the capital of the Kingdom of Sweden, and the seat
of government and of the supreme courts of law, with 227,000 in-
hab., in 59° 20' N. lat. and 18" 5' E. long., lies at the influx of
Lake Malaren into an arm of the Baltic (Saltsjbn). It possesses ex-
cellent harbours both in the Baltic and Lake Malaren, which are the
scene of busy traffic, except during the four or five months in winter
when they are usually frozen over. The situation of the town on
islands, on a plain , and on rocky hills , surrounded by water and
islands in almost every direction, is exceedingly picturesque. Stock-
holm has therefore not inaptly been called the ' Venice of the
North', and has sometimes been also compared with Marseilles or
Geneva ; but no such comparison can convey an adequate idea of
the place, which differs in many respects from all others. The
most striking peculiarity of the city consists in the fact that it lies
in immediate proximity with primaeval forests and rocky islands,
where to this day there is hardly a trace of cultivation. Various
modern improvements have been effected in the Norrmalm, or N.
quarter of the town, but in the Sodermalm, the Kungsholm, by the
Observatory, and in the Skeppsholm and Kastellholm the bare
granite rock is frequently seen protruding in the midst of the houses.
History. The most ancient national chronicles mention a settlement
which lay on the site of the modern city of Stockholm , but which was
very unimportant compared with Sigtuna (p. 357) or with Gamla Upsala
(p. 362). After the place had been repeatedly plundered and destroyed
by pirates and hostile tribes (the Esthonians and Karelians, about the year
1188), Birger Jarl in 1255 fortified Staden, Helgeandsholmen, and Riddar-
holmen , the three islands now occupied by 'the city1, protecting them
with towers and walls, and constituting them the capita] of his dominions.
Since that period the history of Sweden , and particularly that of the
numerous conflicts between "the Swedes and Danes, has centred around
Stockholm. It was long before the city extended beyond the limits of
these three islands. The increasing population had indeed several times
begun to occupy the mainland to the K. and S., but these settlements
were as often swept away by the Danish besiegers (Margaret in 1389,
Christian I. in 1471, and Christian II. in 1520). At length from the middle
of the 16th cent, downwards the citizens were enabled to extend their
borders in peace. During the regency in the reign of Christina, the
daughter of Gustavus Adolphus, the precincts of the city were extended

Staden. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 323

so as to embrace the N. and S. suburbs, the former of which was erected
in accordance with a regular plan. In consequence of various great fires,
the old timber-built houses have gradually been replaced with substantial
stone edifices. In the 17th cent, the population was 15,000, in 1751 it had
increased to 55,700, in 1800 to 75,500, in 1850 to 93,000, and in 1870 to
136,000, while on 31st Dec. 1882 the number was found to be 174,706.

Stockholm consists of the following quarters : —

1. Staden, 'the city', the oldest part of the town, situated
on an island at the mouth of Lake Malaren and on the two smaller
adjacent islands Riddarholmen and Helgeandsholmen. It contains
the Royal Palace, and is now the headquarters of the shipping and
wholesale trade.

2. Norrmalmen, or the N. quarter, with the island of Blasie-
holmen, which is now connected with the mainland, the hand-
somest part of the town, containing all the principal hotels, the
railway-station, and the best shops, and consisting of substantial,
regularly-built streets. On the height to the N.W. is the new
Vasa Quarter.

3. Ostermalm or Ladugardslandet, a quarter adjoining the Norr-
malni on the E., the distinctive feature of which formerly consist-
ed of its barracks. It now also contains numerous handsome pri-
vate houses.

4. Kungsholmen , an island adjoining the Norrmalm on the
S.W., the site of several hospitals and manufactories.

5. Sodermalmen, or the S. quarter, which is the most extensive
in point of area, but the least interesting part of the city.

6. Saltsjo-Oarne, or the Baltic islands of Skeppsholmen and Kas-
tellholmen, containing naval and military establishments, and
lastly Djurgards-Staden, or the park suburb, with the Beckholmen.

All these quarters are connected by means of Bridges, by far
the most important of which are the Norrbro (PI. E, 4 ; see below)
and the new Vasabro (PI. D, 4), completed in 1878, connecting
the Norrmalm with Staden , and Slussen (PI. E, 6 ; p. 342) , or
the 'Sluice Bridges', connecting Staden with the Sodermalm.

Staden and Riddarholmen.

The most interesting survey of the singularly picturesque site
of Stockholm and of its busy harbour-traffic is afforded by the
*Norrbro (PI. E, 4), a handsome bridge of seven arches completed
in 1797, spanning the short river which forms the principal efflux
of Lake Malaren , and connecting the Norrmalm and Staden. Jt
is constructed of granite, and is 125 yds. long and 20 yds. wide.
Part of it stands on the N.E. side of the small Helgeandsholm,
where, flanking the S.W. side of the bridge, there are a number of
shops, the old buildings behind which are to be removed to make
way for a new park. On the opposite (N.E.) side of the bridge is
the *8tromparterre (cafe, see p. 318 ; steamboats to the Djurgard
every '/4 hr.), to which two handsome flights of steps descend.

21*

324 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Royal Palace.

'Hur praktigt speglar ej den strbmmen ai

Torn, hjeltestoder, slott og sangartempel,

Och aftonrodnan ofver Riddarholmen,

Der Sveriges ara sofver under marmor !' (TegnerI

'Tower, heroes' statues, palace, muses' fane
Stand nobly mirrored in the stream beneath,
While bathed in evening-red glows Riddarholm,
Where, beneath marble, Sweden's glory sleeps'.

From the S.E. end of the bridge a broad and massive quay, con-
structed of granite like all the others at Stockholm, extends to the
E. and S., along the E. side of Staden, This is Skeppsbron,
the landing-place of most of the large sea-going steamers, as well
as of numerous local steam-launches. Approaching Staden from
the N., we observe on the right the Mynt-Torg and the old Mint,
a building with a facade of four columns, now occupied by public
offices. The Mynt-Gata leads thence to the Riddarhus-Torg(p. 326).

On a rocky height at the S.E. end of the Norrbro rises the
*Royal Palace QP1. E, 4), begun on the site of an earlier edifice
by Nicodemus Tessin, a Swedish architect, in 1697, in the Italian
Renaissance style. The work was interrupted by the wars in which
Charles XII. was engaged, but was at length completed by Count
Carl Oust. Tessin, Harlemann, and Cronstedt in 1753. This massive
edifice, consisting of a ground-floor, an entresol , and two upper
stories, with a flat roof, forms a rectangle 136 yds. in length and
127 yds. in width, and encloses a court which is nearly square in
shape. The N. and S. facades are adjoined by four lower wings,
extending to the E. and W., so that the N. facade is double the
length of the central building. The N. W. portal, facing the bridge,
is approached by a handsome carriage-drive, constructed in 1824-
34, and called Lejonbacken from the bronze lions, cast in 1704,
with which it is adorned. On the S.W. side of the palace are
two detached buildings forming a small semicircular outer court,
one of them being the chief Guard House. On the N.E. side, be-
tween the projecting wings, is a small garden called Logarden
or 'lynx-yard', which is said to derive its name from a small men-
agerie once kept here. It affords a fine view of the harbour, and
communicates with Skeppsbron by means of a flight of steps, but is
not open to the public. The central quadrangle on the other hand,
with the N.W., S.W., and S.E. portals, is always accessible.

The private apartments are shown daily in summer, during the
absence of the royal family, while the public rooms (Festivitets-
Vaningen) may be visited at any time. The rooms on each floor are
shown by a different attendant (yaktmastare ; fee 1-2 kr.).

The Principal Entrance is on the S.W. side, adjacent to the Guard
House. Passing the sentinel posted here, we turn to the left in the gate-
way and ascend a handsome staircase leading to the Second Floor. Here,
on the right, are the sumptuous state apartments known as the Festivitets-
V&ning, once occupied by Charles XIV. John. Passing through the Life
Guard Saloon, embellished with arms, the Concert Room, and the Audience
Room, with ceiling-paintings illustrative of the history of Alexander the

Stor Kyrkan. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 325

Great by Jacques Fouquet (1700) and some old tapestry, we enter the Red
Saloon, embellished with allegorical ceiling-paintings by Fouquet with
reference to the youth of Charles XII., several busts in marble, and a
valuable silver candelabrum of the time of Charles X. — Farther on we
come to the Grand Gallery, 52 yds. long and 7'/« yds. wide, richly de-
corated with stucco, marble, and gilding. The handsome doors, carved in
oak by Henrion in 1696-99, were designed by Fouquet. Ceiling-paintings
also by Fouquet, those in the side-cabinets being illustrative of war and
peace. This apartment and the following contain a number of sculptures
in marble by Fogelberg, Bystrbm, Molin, and others. — The Great Ban-
queting Saloon, known as Hvila Hafvet ('the white sea') , a name derived
from its white stuccoed walls, 46 yds. long and 38 yds. wide, was formed
in 1845 of two rooms originally separate. The ceiling-paintings are by
Italian painters of the first half of the 18th century.

The First Flook of the same wing (on the right of the visitor ascend-
ing the staircase) contains the Privy Council Rooms, the Seraphim Saloon (for
the knights of the Seraphim Order, the highest in Sweden, which is said
to have been founded in 1276-90, and was reconstituted in 1748 and 1814),
and the Riks-Sal or Imperial Hall, where the ceremony of opening the
Representative Chambers takes place. — On the left (of those ascending the
staircase) are the Kin<fs Apartments, adjoined by the Queen's Apartments.
The E. wing also contains the rooms of the Crown Prince and Princess
(entered from the court). These apartments contain numerous portraits of
members of the royal family, sculptures by Swedish masters, pictures by
Scandinavian artists, magnificent gifts presented by foreign sovereigns,
and other objects of value; but a visit to them will hardly repay a trav-
eller whose time is limited. — The S. wing contains the Palace Chapel
(service on Sundays at 11 o'clock).

In the N.E. wing (entr. from the Lejonbacke) are the royal Lifeust-
kammarkn, or Kladkammaren, with articles of dress and other memorials
of Gustavus Adolphus , Charles XII., Gustavus III., and other Swedish
kings (open Tues. 12-3 and Sun. 1-3, in summer also Frid. 12-3; on Tues.
50 6., other days free). Catalogue from the door-keeper, 50 6.

The S.E. facade of the Palace, emhellished with a colonnade,
looks towards the Slottsbacke, or Palace Hill (PI. E, 4), a hand-
some Plats descending to the Skeppsbro. The Slottbacke is ad-
orned with an Obelisk, 100 ft. in height, erected in 1799 by Gusta-
vus IV. in memory of the loyalty of the citizens of Stockholm
during the war against Russia in 1788-90, while the attitude of the
nobility was hostile to their sovereign (p. lxviii}. At the foot of the
Slottsbacke, on the Skeppsbro, rises the finely executed * Monu-
ment of Gustavus III. (PI. E, 4), by J. T. Sergei , a Swedish
sculptor, erected in 1808 by public subscription in honour of that
chivalric monarch. The rudder on which the statue of the King
leans is an allusion to his naval victories. This point commands
a fine view of the harbour and the Skeppsholm.

The Governor's House (Ofverstathallare-Huset ; PL 30 ; E, 5),
on the S.E. side of the Slottsbacke, which possesses a handsome
though small court , was erected by the distinguished architect
Nicod. Tessin (p. 324), to whom it originally belonged.

At the S.W. end of the Slottsbacke rises the Storkyrka (Great
Church; PL 27; E, 5) or Church of St. Nicholas, which, according
to the inscription, was founded by Birger Jarl in 1264, and en-
tirely rebuilt in 1736-43. The unpleasing tower is 184 ft. in
height. In the interior, which consists of a nave with double

326 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Stor Torget.

aisles, is a valuable altar-piece in silver, ivory, and ebony, em-
bellished with 18 scenes from the Passion (beginning of 17th
cent."). An interesting candelabrum with seven branches, of the
14th cent., presented by King Magnus Smek, two huge pictures
('The Last Judgment' and 'The Descent from the Cross') by Ehren-
sttrahl (d. 1698), several ancient tombstones, and the rich treasury
of silver vessels are also objects of interest. (The Klockare or sa-
cristan lives at Vesterlang-Gatan 21 ; fee lli-i kr.)

A short street leads from the Slottsbacke to the S. to the Stor
Torg [Great Market; PI. E, 5), the central and highest point of
the old town, on theN.W. side of which rises the Exchange (PI. 12),
where business begins at 1. 30 p.m. daily. In this market-place
several tragic scenes have been enacted. In 1280 Magnus Ladulas
caused three members of his own family to be executed. In 1437
Erik Puke, and in 1605 the royal counsellor Bjelke were also be-
headed here. The saddest event in the annals of the city, known
as the Stockholm Blood Bath, took place in the Scor-Torg on 10th
and 11th November, 1520, when Christian II. of Denmark caused
a great number of his opponents to be executed here with a view
to consolidate his power in Sweden, but with the result that the
Danes were soon afterwards expellel from the country.

Numerous steep lanes, called Brinkar and Grander, intersected
by transverse streets, descend from the Stor-Torg to the Skeppsbro
to the E., and to the Stora Ny-Gata to the W., forming the head-
quarters of the humbler class of tradesmen , whose Swedish char-
acteristics will interest many travellers.

In the Svartman-Gata, to the S.E. of the Stor-Torg, rises the
Tyska Kyrka or German Church (PI. 28; E, 5), erected in 1636-42,
but severely damaged by a fire in 1878, and since renewed. The
tower is provided with a set of chimes. The pulpit and the altar
were presented by German merchants in the 17th century.

We now descend to the S.W. through the Stora Ny-Gata, which
leads to the N.W. to the Riddarhus-Torg. At the S.E. end of the
Ny-Gata lies the Kornhamns- Torg ('corn-harbour market'; PI. E, 5),
where we may turn to the left to the Slussen, leading to the Sodermalm,
or cross to the Maria-Hissen by steam-launch (pp. 342, 313). We may
also proceed farther to the right to the Mcilar-Torg and the Kbtt-
Torg ('meat-market'; PI. E, 5), which is intersected by the railway.
These quays command fine views of the Sodermalm. To the N. of
the Kott-Torg we next reach the Munkbro (PI. D, 5), the busiest
scene of the market-traffic of Stockholm, and the landing-place of
many of the smaller Malaren steamers. No. 2 in the Lilla Ny-Gatan,
which diverges from the Munkbro to the S.E., is the Peter senskahus,
once the property of Queen Christina, and recently restored.

The Riddarhus-Torg (PI. D, 5), bounded on theN.W. side
by the Riddarhus and the Town Hall , is adorned with a Statue of
Gustavus Vasa, designed by V Archeveque , and erected in 1773

Biddarholm. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 327

by the Swedish nobility on the 250th anniversary of the day when
the king entered Stockholm and delivered his country from the
Danish yoke. On 13th July, 1756, Count Brahe, Barons Horn and
Wrangel, and others were brought to the scaffold here for the crime
of conspiring to undermine the constitution. On 10th June, 1810,
Marshal Axel v. Fersen fell a victim here to the fury of the popul-
ace, who were seriously alarmed by the sudden death of the crown-
prince, and believed that he had been poisoned by the marshal.

The Riddarhus (Knights' House ; PI. 35 ; D, 5), a brick struc-
ture, erected in 1648-70 from designs by Simon de la Vallee, is
adorned with Latin inscriptions and allegorical figures on the facade.
On the first floor is a large room embellished with the armorial
bearings of all the Swedish nobles, and with ceiling-paintings by
Ehrenstrahl, where the Upper Chamber held its meetings down to
1866. A room on the ground-floor contains portraits of all the
marshals of Sweden from 1627 to 1865, who have been presidents
of the Upper Chamber, with the exception of General Lejonhufvud,
who was blamed by the nobility for their want of success in the
war against Finland in 1740-43, and beheaded in 1743. Ad-
mission, see p. 322.

Adjoining the Riddarhus , on the opposite side of the Riddar-
hus-Grand which leads to the N.W. to the Vasa Bridge, rises the
Town Hall (Radhuset; PI. 34; D, 5), once the palace of Count
Bonde, the royal treasurer, but converted to its present use in
1731. The large Council Chamber contains several antiquities con-
nected with the history of the town. (Apply to the 'vaktm'astare.')

From the Riddarhus-Torg a bridge leads to the S.W. to the
Riddarholm (PI. D, 5) , on which rises the *Riddarholms-Kyrka
(PI. 25), with its conspicuous perforated spire of cast iron, 290 ft.
in height. It was formerly a church of the Franciscans , and has
for centuries been the burial-place of the kings and most cele-
brated natives of Sweden. The building is in the Gothic style, but
has been disfigured by Renaissance additions and alterations.
Divine worship has not been performed here since 1807, except
on the occasion of royal funerals. The principal entrance is at the
W. end. (Admission, see p. 322.)

The walls of the church are embellished with the armorial bearings of
the deceased knights of the Seraphim Order (p. 325), and the pavement is
formed of tombstones. Flanking the high-altar are the Monuments of Kings
Magnus Ladulas (d. 1320) and Charles VIII. (d. 1470), erected during the
reign of John III. in the 16th century. On the right (S.) is the Burial
Chapel of Gustavus Adolphus (Oustavianska Graflcorel), constructed in
1633 in accordance with instructions given by the king in 1629 before his
departure for Germany. Since 1832, the 200th anniversary of the famous
monarch's death (at the battle of Liitzen, 6th Nov., 1632), his remains
have reposed in a green marble sarcophagus, executed in Italy by order
of Gustavus III. for the reception of the body of his father Adolphus
Frederick, but unused till 1832, when the remains of Gustavus Adolphus
were transferred to it by Charles XIV. John. It bears the simple in-
scription : Gustavus Adolfus Magnus. Between the windows of the chapel
are placed German , Russian, and other flags as trophies of the king's

328 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Northern

victories. In the vault below are interred Maria Eleoiwra of Branden-
burg (d. 1655), the queen of Gustavus Adolphus ; kings Adolphus Frederick
(d. 1771), Gustavus III. (d. 1792), Gustavus IV. (d. 1837; p. lxviii), and
Charles XIII. (d. 1818), with their queens, and other members of the Holstein-
Gottorp family. — On the opposite fN.) side of the church is the Caroline
Chapel (Karolinska Grafkoret), constructed in 1686-1743. It contains the sar-
cophagus of Charles XII. (d. 1718), in black marble, on which is placed a
lion's skin in brass, with a crown, sceptre, and sword. To the right is the
marble sarcophagus of Frederick I. (d. 1751), and on the left reposes his
queen Ulrica Eleonora (d. 1742), sister of Charles XII. Between the win-
dows are trophies of Polish, Danish, and Russian flags. In the vault be-
low are interred Charles X. Gustavus (d. 1660), Charles XI. (d. 1697), and
their queens, and several princes of the Vasa family. — Adjoining the
Chapel of Gustavus, on the S. side of the choir, is the Bemadotte Chapel
(Bemadotleska Grafkoret), designed by Prof. Scholander, and constructed
in 1858-60. A massive sarcophagus of porphyry here contains the remains
of Charles XIV. John (Bemadotte, d. 1844). The vault below contains the
coffin of his queen Desideria (d. 1860) , and those of Oscar I. (d. 1859)
and Charles XV. (d. 1872), the queen of the latter, and several members
of the royal family.

In the aisles of the church are the burial-vaults of Count Lejonhufvud,
adorned with numerous Russian flags ; Counts Wachlmeister & v. Fersen,
also with Russian flags; Count Torslensson, with a marble bust of Mar-
shal Lennart Torstensson (d. 1651), with numerous German and other
flags; Count Vasaborg, with German flags; Marshal Banir (in the centre
of the S. aisle, visible through a pointed doorway), with the armour of
the marshal (d. at Halberstadt, 1641) and many German flags ; and lastly
the Slryks Family, with Russian , Polish , German , Danish, Saxon, and
other flags.

On the Riddarholm are also situated the Riksdagshus or Assembly
Hall of the Chambers (PI. 36 ; D, 5), originally erected in 1794,
but almost entirely rebuilt in 1866, occupying the site of the old
Franciscan monastery; the Svea Kammarkollegiet (PI. 18; D, 5),
■which was occupied by the royal family in 1677-1754, previously
to the completion of the palace ; the Riks-Arkiv (PI. 5 ; D, 5 ; adm.
p. 322), and other public buildings.

In the centre of the island is the Birger-Jarls-Torg , em-
bellished with a *Statue of Birger Jarl in bronze , which was de-
signed by Fogelberg , and erected by public subscription in 1854.
— The Railway Bridge (toll 2 6.; p. 298), crossing from the Rid-
darholm to the mainland to the N.W., has a foot-way on the N.E.
side, from which a path descends to the Stromsborg (PI. D, 4), a
small island containing a restaurant, and to the new Town Baths.

The Northern Quarters of the Town.
At the N. end of the Norrbro lies the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg
(PI. E, 4) , in the centre of which rises a lofty pedestal of Swedish
granite and marble , bearing an equestrian Statne of Gustavus
Adolphus, in bronze, designed by L'Archeveque in 1777, but not
erected till 1796. The pedestal is adorned with bronze reliefs of
the Swedish generals Torstenson , Wrangel , Baner, and Konigs-
mark. On 6th Nov. , the anniversary of the celebrated king's death,
crowds of Stockholmers assemble round the monument, singing
hymns and particularly the lines composed by Gustavus himself

Quarters. STOCKHOLM. U. Route. 329

before the battle of Liitzeu ('Forfaras ej du lilla hop' ; i. e. 'feaT
not, little band').

On the W. side of the market-place rises the Palace of the
Crown Prince (PI. 31; D, 4), erected in 1783-93, and now for
the most part unoccupied. The principal building on the N. side
is the Hotel Bydberg; and on the E. side is the Stora Teater (PI.
10 ; E , 4 ; p. 321) , designed by Adlercrantz , and erected in
1775-82 by Gustavus III., who dedicated it to the 'National Poetry'
(Patriis Musis), of which he was an ardent admirer and patron.
Among the visitors to the court of Gustavus were Kellgren, Lidner,
Leopold, and Bellman , the chief founders of Swedish literature.
It was in this theatre, at a masked ball on 16-17th March, 1792,
that Gustavus III. was assassinated by Capt. Ankarstrom.

Immediately to the N. of the Theatre is the Jacobs-Kyrka (PI.
23), where Marshal Horn is interred (d. 1659), adjoining which
on the E. is the Kungstradgard ('King's Garden' ; PI. E. 3),
adorned with statues of two Swedish monarchs , and embellished
with avenues and flower-beds. At the end of the promenades next
to the quay rises the *Statue of Charles XII., by Molin, surrounded
with four mortars captured by that king, after whom this part of the
quay is called Karl den'Tolftes Torg. (Steam-launches to Alkarret,
see p. 320.)

The ^Fountain in the centre of the grounds, also by Molin, is
embellished with handsome bronze statues of northern river and
marine gods. — • Neariy opposite the fountain, on the E. side of the
grounds , rises the Dramatiska Teater (PI. 41 ; p. 321), erected
in 1842.

A little to the N. of the fountain rises the Statue of Charles
XIII., the least popular of all the kings of Sweden, erected by
Charles XIV. John to the memory of his adoptive father. It was
designed by Prof. Gothe and cast at Paris. The noble lions at
the foot of the monument are by Fogelberg. — To the N.W. of
the statue , and adjoining the Hamn-Gata , is the building of the
*Konstforening (PI. 19 ; E, 3; exhibition, see p. 321), with Blanch's
Cafe (p. 318) on the ground-floor. Adjacent are Blanch's Picture
Rooms. — Opposite, at the N. end of the Kungstradgard, is the
large Svea Hall, in the Moorish style (concerts in the evening).

A little to the E. of the Kungstradgard , and adjoining the
Hamn-Gata and the Nybro, is the shady Berzelii Park (PI. E, 3),
named after a Statue of Berzelius (d. 1848), the chemist, by
Qvarnstrom. Adjacent is Bern's Salong, a favourite cafe , where
a band plays in the evening (p. 318). To the N.E. is situated the
Ladugardsland quarter of the city. In the Artilleri-Gard here
(PI. F. 2) is a well-arranged museum of artillery and small arms
(admission, see p. 321). The ground adjoining the Guards'1 Bar-
racks (PI. G, H, 2) is occupied every July by a Training Camp,
containing about 1200 infantry and artillerymen (visitors admitted).

330 Route U. STOCKHOLM. Northern

To the S. of the Berzelii Park is the Varendorf-Gata, with the
new *Synagogue (PI. 39; E, 3), designed by Prof. Scholander and
erected in 1870. — On the Blasieholms-Hamn, at the S. end of
the Kungstradgard (PI. E, F, 4), are situated the Grand Hotel
(p. 316), the National Museum (see p. 334), and several handsome
new private buildings.

From the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg (p. 328) diverge several of the
most important streets in Stockholm , containing the best shops.
To the W. runs the busy Freds-Gata, at the end of which, on the
right, is the Academie for de fria Konsterna (PI. 1 ; D, 4), founded
in 1735 for the education of painters and sculptors. Near it is the
Post Office (PI. 33 ; D, 4).

To the N.W. of the Freds-Gata runs the long and well-built
Drottning-Gata, nearly parallel with which is the important Reger-
ings-Gata, diverging from the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg. Between these
streets lies the Brunkebergs - Torg (PI. D , 3) , which occupies
the site of a considerable sand-hill, removed to make way for this
market-place. In the Beridarebans-Gata, a little to the N.W.
of the Brunkebergs-Torg, is the Central Gymnastic Institution (PI.
17 ; D, 3), established in 1813 through the influence of P. H. Ling
(d. 1839). In the Master-Samuels-Gata, a few paces to the N.W.,
are the handsome Sldjdskola (PI. 38 ; D, 3), or Mechanical School,
containing a library and collection of models (adm., see p. 321),
and the Landtbruks-Academiens Museum, or Agricultural Museum
(adm., see p. 321). On the opposite side of the street, at the
corner of the Beridarebans-Gata , is the Landtbruks- Academiens
Bibliotek (PI. 2; library open on Wed. and Sat., 12-2).

Between the Drottning-Gata and the Railway Station is situated
the Klara-Kyrka (PI. D, 3), erected in 1751-53 after the de-
struction by Are of an earlier church founded in 1285. It contaius
sculptures by Sergei. ('Klockare', Klara Vestra Kyrkogatau 14 A.)
In the adjoining churchyard the poet Bellman (d. 1785 ; p. 344)
lies buried.

In the Drottning-Gata, about 7 min. to the N.W. of the Klara-
Kyrka, is situated the *Northern Museum (PI. 13 ; C, 2), a very
interesting collection of Scandinavian curiosities, founded by Dr.
Arthur Hazelius in 1873 and continually added to since. The Mu-
seum is divided into several 'Departments', the oldest of which is
at Nos. 71 A & 71 C, Drottning-Gatan. The Main Department is at
Nos. 77-79, another section at No. 68. The attendants are women
in the picturesque costumes of Darlecarlia. Official illustrated cat-
alogue in preparation. (Admission, see p. 321.)

We begin with the South Pavilion, Drottning-Gatan 71 A.

Room to the right of the entrance. Prehistoric articles.

I. Room (to the left). Peasant girl from the district of Blekinge; -In-
terior of a house in the district of Ingelstad in the province of Skane,
with figures in the costume of the end of the 17th century ; kitchen from
Balland, first half of this century; peasant's room from Vingaker in

Museum. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 331

Sodermanland, 1820, with the figure of a girl receiving presents on the
day of the third proclamation of her banns of marriage; reaper from
Hcrrestad in Skane. On the opposite side of the room are glass-cases
containing tools and various utensils from Skane and Blekinge, bridal
trinkets, gloves, head-dresses, etc., chiefly of the 17th and 18th centuries.

II. Room. On the right is a glass-press containing tankards, drink-
ing cups, and other utensils from Oslergbtland. In the centre is a stand
with 30 movable frames containing views and figures in curious and pic-
turesque costumes. On the walls are primitive horse-collars, a Runic
staff, tools, etc., chiefly from Vestergotland and Ostergblland.

III. Room. Articles from Smaland: bridal trinkets, including several
of the silver spoons which brides wore suspended by chains, and afterwards
used by the bride and bridegroom at table. In a case by the window,
badges worn by the female peasantry of Varend in memory of the bravery
shown by the women of that district in fighting against the invading Danes.

IV. Room. Articles from Gotland. Smaland, Hallwid, Bohuslan, etc.,
including 'Bonader' or hangings used to adorn the walls at Christmas.

V. Room. Articles from Skane; group from the Harad of Vemmen-
hog; ancient looms and woven stuffs; silver ornaments, including 'Ella-
kors' or crosses worn as charms against the fairies.

We next visit the North Pavilion, on the other side of the Gar-
den. Entrance, Drottning-Gatan 71 C.

I. Room (to the right of the entrance). Objects from Finland, with
the figure of a 'Kantele' (Finnish guitar) player.

II. Room (on the left). Articles of dress and utensils used by Swedish
settlers in Livonia and Esthonia ; carved wood from N. Germany.

III. Room. Glass-presses with girls' caps, head-dresses, trinkets,
gloves, etc., from Denmark and Schleswig ; woven stuffs and pottery from
Copenhagen and Holland, etc. The 30 rotatory frames of the stand in the
centre contain figures in German, Esthonian, and Danish costumes.

IV. Room. On the right, a sledge said to have been once used by
Charles XII. during his last campaign against Norway. Wooden beer
tankards, harness, etc. Groups of figures in Helsingland and Lapp costumes.
In glass-cases by the window are weapons, tools, Runic staves, female
ornaments from Qeslrikland and Helsingland; objects from Herjedalen,
(specimen of Niidbrbd or Fladbrod , partly made of bark) , Jemtland,
Angermanland, Medelpark, Vesterbotlen, and Lapland. Among the last are
'Seitar' or curiously shaped blocks of granite, worshipped by the Lapps,
and magicians' drums. Objects from Greenland.

V. Room. Costumes, etc., from N. Sweden and Greenland. A large
collection of historical objects.

VI. Room. Looms, chests, and boxes.

The principal part of the collection is contained in the first,
second, and third stories of Drottning-Gatan Nos. 77 & 79. En-
trance to both at No. 79 (admission, see p. 321).

First Floor. Rooms I-VI. Objects formerly belonging to the ancient
guilds, including master -pieces of various handicrafts, guild -stamps,
safes, mugs and tankards. — Room VII. contains Prof. And. Berth's (of
Upsala; d. 1774) "Theatrum oeconomico-mechanicum', an interesting col-
lection of models and similar articles for object-teaching. Specimens of
Swedish writing and printing, book-binding, etc.

We now return to the first room in order to reach the other rooms
on this floor, which contain objects illustrating the life of the higher ranks.
— Room VIII. Articles in wrought iron, including a church-door from
Sweden, with mountings of the 13th century. — Room IX. Pottery and
porcelain. — Room X. Porcelain and fayence.

A few steps lead down into No. 77 Drottning-Gatan, which contains
chiefly wooden articles. — Room XI. Mediaeval furniture and carved wood ;
wooden baptismal basin of the 13th cent., carvings from the Edda; Nor-
wegian church-doors. — Rooms XII-XVII. Furniture and other household
articles of various styles : Renaissance, Rococo, style of Louis XVI. (known

332 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. Northern

in Sweden as the Gustavian style), and in the style of the empire. — Room
XVIII. Kitchen utensils ; looms, etc. — Room XIX. Sun-dials and sand-
glasses ; Runic staves, ancient Swedish copper money, and a 'Frax' or
leathern sack to carry it on journeys. — We return to Room XI., from
which we enter Rooms XX, XXI., containing ecclesiastical objects; pictures;
a pulpit from Ronneby ; a chest from Smaland, with iron mountings re-
presenting the legend of St. Hubert, etc.

Second Flook. — Room I. Sedan chairs , perambulator used by
Charles XV. when a child, harness, saddles, etc. — Room II. Embroidery,
lace, children's dresses, dolls. — Room III. Rich costumes of the 17th
and 18th cent. ; 'Brudstubb' (bridal petticoat) of 1700, and Gustavus Ill's
Swedish national costume. Two pictures representing the cursor and the
janitor of Upsala University. — Room IV. Patents of nobility, orders,
lottery-'tombola'. — Room V. Musical instruments. — Rooms VI. and VII.
Uniforms and arms of the 15th-18th cent. Portrait figure of Charles XII.

— Room VIII. Equipments of a wolf-hunter in former days. — Room IX.
Ancient apparatus for capital punishment. — Room X. Fire-extinguishing
apparatus, and objects connected with the postal and customs services.

— We now return through Room II. to Rooms XI-XIII., containing Por-
traits and relics of Swedish and Danish kings and celebrated men (Lin-
nceus, Berzelius, Tegnir, Thorvaldsen, Hbcktrt, etc.). — A flight of steps de-
scends hence to the Norwegian Collection in No. 77 (see below).

Thikd Floor. Rooms I-IV. Objects from Dalecarlia or Dalarne. In I. a
'By-kladd' (parish register), or staff inscribed with the names of 100 land-
owners in the village of Farnas and its public accounts down to 1857.
Cowherd's horns and other rude instruments. In II. Runic Calendar. Room
from Rattvik in Dalecarlia, with a group representing 'the little girl's
last resting-place' after the picture by Amalia Lindegren. In III. Groups
of peasants from Mora and Orsa; locks, arms, birch-bark cradles, in which
infants are carried to be baptized. In IV. Costumes from Dalecarlia.
Domestic objects. — Room V. Articles from Upland. In the window a
'■julbocK' in straw (used as a plaything at 'Yule'). In the centre a stand
with 30 revolving frames with views and costumes. A collection of
costumes, etc.; also several <,vagglus-brader\ drilled with holes ('bug-
traps'). — Rooms VI. and VII. Objects from Vestmanland, Sodermanland
(figures of two girls from Osteraker), and Nerike. — Room VIII. Objects
from Vermland. Shoes, trinkets, birch-bark household utensils (partly from
Finnish settlements), Nodbrod (see p. 331). Costumes from different parishes.

We now return to the second floor and descend by the stair-
case mentioned above to the —

Norwegian Collection, which occupies twelve rooms on the sec-
ond floor of Drottning-Gatan 77.

Rooms I-IV. Fragments of buildings and rustic furniture, timber from
'Stabburs' (storehouses), carved boards, bedsteads, cabinets, and chairs;
blocks of wood with a number of human teeth driven into them in accor-
dance with a superstitious belief of thus warding off toothache in future.

— Room V. Travelling requisites, sledges, horse-collars, saddles, stirrups,
a fine carved bedstead from the Romsdal, old tapestry. In the glass-cases
at the windows are riding- whips, basket-work, and two '■Budstikkef
(wooden cases for official messages, which the peasantry of each district
were bound to carry to a certain point, where they were placed on the
ground to await their conveyance through the next district). — Room VI.
Drinking-vessels. a 'Hogsate' (i.e., a bench used as the seat of honour). —
Room VII. Drinking-vessels, small carved household utensils, and the
following pictures : a girl from Telemarken. a group of a man and a
woman from the Numedal, a group from the Hitterdal, a Lapp woman
and child from Finmarken. Revolving frames containing figures in Nor-
wegian costume. Carved pieces of wood used for mangling linen by hand.

— Room VIII. Ornaments and weapons, embroidery, handsome old belts
from the Sietersdal (p. 40) ; powder-horns of the 16-i8th centuries, knives,
snuffboxes, old halberds, spears, and other weapons. — Room IX. Musical

Museum. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 333

instruments and Norwegian peasant furniture. — Room X. Objects from
Iceland. — Room XI. Household utensils from Norway ; scythes, sickles,
looms, etc. — Room XII. Large furniture from Norway; cabinets, carved
presses, chests, etc.

An annex was established in 1888 in the first floor of Drottning-
Gatan 68. Admission, see p. 321.

Room I. Objects connected with seafaring: ancient log-canoes, gal-
leons, votive ships from churches, hatchets, grapnels, ship's lanterns and
cables. — Room II. Mediaeval and rococo objects : ecclesiastical objects,
furniture, weather-cocks in metal, etc. This room also contains a large
modern iron shield, ornamented with engraved designs by the Swedish
master Wilhelm Beskow. — Returning through Room I. we reach the
Pharmaceutical Collection in Rooms III-VI., containing all sorts of drug-
gist's apparatus. In Room III. is a complete apothecary's shop ; in Room V.
are a laboratory and various souvenirs of the German-Swedish apothe-
cary Scheele (d. 1783) of Koping, the discoverer of oxygen. — Room VII.
Baroque and rococo furniture, trinkets, etc.

Just beyond the last-named collection the Rorstrands-Gata
diverges to the S.W., in which is situated the tasteful Gothic
English Church (PI. 21 ; B, 2).

On the light in the Drottning - Gata, nearly opposite the Ror-
strands-Gata , is the Academy of Science [Vetenskaps-Academi ;
PI. 4; C, 1), founded by Swedish savants in 1739, and endowed
by government in 1741. The first director was Karl v. Linne
(Linnaus; 1707-78), the celebrated botanist. The academy now
numbers 175 members, of whom 75 are foreigners. The building
also contains the valuable *Natural History Collection, the property
of the state, comprising numerous specimens of the northern fauna,
minerals, etc. (adm., see p. 321).

A few paces to the E. of the Academy of Science rises the
Adolf-Fredriks-Kyrka (PI. C, 1, 2), designed by Adlercrantz, erect-
ed in 1768-74, and containing an altar-piece (the Resurrection)
in plaster, by Sergei. There is also a monument here to Descartes
(d. at Stockholm, 1650), the famous French mathematician and
philosopher, whose remains were removed to Paris in 1661.

In the Drottning - Gata, on the left, a little beyond the Aca-
demy of Science, is the handsome Technological Institute (PI. 46 ;
B, 1), designed by Prof. Scholander, and erected in 1863, adjoin-
ing which is the Bergskola or School of Mining. The library and
collections of these establishments are open to the public on
Mondays and Thursdays, 12-2 o'clock.

On a height at the end of the Drottning-Gata rises the Obser-
vatory (PI. B, 1), erected in 1748-52, commanding a fine view of
the city ('vaktmastare' 25 6.).

About 7min. walk to the E. of the Adolf-Fredriks-Kyrka,
and the same distance to the N. of the Berzelii Park (p. 329), is
situated the linne Park (PI. E, 1), a park laid out in the 17th
cent., with fine old avenues. Near the S. side of this park rises
the Riks-Bibliotek or National Library (PI. 11), designed by Dahl,
and erected in 1870-76, containing upwards of 300,000 printed

334 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. National

books and 7000 MSS. (admission, see p. 322). Among its treasures
may be mentioned the Gigas Librorum, being a collection of 300
large charters and deeds on parchment, dating from the 9-13th
centuries ; and a Latin Bible with notes made by Luther in 1529 ;
both taken by the Swedes during the Thirty Years' War, the for-
mer from Prague, the latter from Wittenberg. — Behind the mu-
seum, in the middle of the park, there was erected in 1885 an im-
posing Monument to Charles v. Linnaeus, consisting of a colossal
figure of the great botanist, surrounded by allegorical statues of
Zoology, Medicine, and Agriculture, cast in bronze after models
by Frithiof Kjellberg. Near the S. W. side of the Linne Park is the
entrance to a tunnel, 275 yds. long, connecting the David Bagares-
Gatan with the Luntmakare-G atari (toll 3 6\).

The National Museum.

At the S. end of the Blasieholm (p. 330) rises the ^National Mu-
seum (PL F, 4), designed by Stiller of Berlin, and erected in 1850-
65, a handsome edifice in the Renaissance style, with round-
arched Venetian windows, and a portal of greenish Swedish marble.
Over the portal are placed medallion-reliefs of six famous Swedish
scholars and artists : Fogelberg, the sculptor; Ehrenstrahl, the
painter ; Linnaeus , the botanist ; Tegne'r , the poet ; Wallin, the
Orientalist ; and Berzelius , the chemist ; and statues of Tessin,
the architect , and Sergei , the sculptor. The museum comprises
the following collections : on the Ground Floor the Historical Mu-
seum and the Cabinet of Coins; on the First Floor the Art-In-
dustrial Collections and antique and modern Sculptures, on the
Second Floor the Picture Gallery and the Drawings and Engravings.
Admission, see p. 321 ; catalogues in the different departments,
and at the entrance.

On entering the handsome vestibule , where sticks and um-
brellas are given up on the left (2 o. each), we observe three colos-
sal statues of northern deities in marble by Fogelberg : below, on
the right, is Odin, on the left Thor, and above them Baldur. Op-
posite the entrance a few steps descend to the —

Ground-Floor, which contains the admirably arranged —

**Historical Museum , or Museum of Swedish Antiquities , an
interesting collection of great value, founded in the 17th cent.,
and recently much extended by the efforts of Hr. B. E. Hilde-
brand. It now consists of all kinds of objects for domestic, agri-
cultural, and ornamental uses, weapons, implements, etc., from
the prehistoric period of Swedish culture down to the present time.

A glass-door leads into the Vestibule, where a copy of the excellent
Cutalogue l>y O. Montelius, in English, may be purchased (2 kr). The
The black figures on white ground indicate the order in which the objects
may be conveniently inspected.

Rooms 1. Hi 11. Objects of the Fust Period, a prehistoric era when

Museum. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 335

the use of metal was unknown, and when the primitive implements of
the chase and others were made of flint , bone , or wood. The principal
objects here are arrow-heads, axes, earthenware vessels, and amber-beads.
The classified objects in the wall-presses and in one of the other show-
cases have been found mostly in Skane. The remaining cases contain
objects, most of which were discovered in ancient tombs, from other dis-
tricts of Sweden. Among these are some prettily carved flints, and some
line battle-axes, the contents of several tombs with the bones of domestic
animals, and various characteristic objects in slate from the most northerly
districts of Sweden.

Room III. Objects of the Bronze Period, an epoch supposed to
have begun in Sweden about a thousand years before Christ, when its
inhabitants came for the first time into contact with the more civilised
natives of Asia and S. Europe. Specially noteworthy are a shield (No. 1.)
of S. European origin, a dagger (5) found in West Gotland, several tine
battle-axes, and vessels with rich fringed ornaments.

Then Objects of the Iron Age. About the beginning of the
Christian era the Swedes became acquainted with iron and its uses (a
metal which was known to the Egyptians between two and three
thousand years, and to the Greeks upwards of one thousand years earlier).
The objects of the earliest iron period show traces of Celtic influence; a
later group has evidently been affected by the culture of the Roman em-
pire as it extended into the provinces, while still more recent objects
connect themselves with the Frankish and Alemannic antiquities of W.
Germany of the period during and after the great national migrations.
In the same room is the rich collection from the Island of Gotland,
embracing a period of over a thousand years. We begin at No. 1. No. 2
shows Roman influence; No. 4 represents the period of migration; beside
it are the contents of a tomb, including an Indian mussel; some of
the brooches have highly characteristic shapes. The collection of silver
ornaments (No. 8) from this island is also peculiarly rich. — Room III.
also contains various objects of the iron age found on the mainland of
Sweden, including four pieces of Roman origin, and numerous golden
ornaments. We observe specially the valuable contents of the graves of
Vendel, where several warriors were found interred in their ships.

Room IV. Objects of the later Iron Age from the mainland of
Sweden. We note here the objects found at Bjorko in Lake Malaren
(p. 350), where the earliest Christian burial-place in Sweden was re-discover-
ed, and the valuable collection of silver ornaments. This room also contains
copies of a rock in Sddermanland, with a Runic inscription and a design
from the Siegfried Saga, and of a large Runic stone near Rik in Oster-
gotland, with the longest Runic inscription that has been preserved. — Here
also is the Medieval Collection, embracing objects of the 11th, 12th,
and 13th centuries.

Room V. Ornaments, church furniture, and ecclesiastical vestments
of the 14th, 15th, and beginning of the 16th cent, (till 1523), including the
treasure which had been buried at Dune in the 14th cent., and a votive
picture (1498) of St. George from the church of St. Nicholas in Stockholm.

The Eoyal Cabinet of Coins occupies an adjoining room (totheN.E.).
A number of Swedish medals are exposed to view in glass-cases, but most
of the coins are kept in presses, and are shown by special permission only.

Room VI. Modern objects in five divisions; 1523-1611, 1611-1654, 1654-
1718, 1718-1809, and 1809 to the present time. This collection contains
some very valuable objects, many of which belonged to Swedish monarchs.

We now return to the staircase, pass the 'Garderobe' on the
first landing, ascend the white marble steps to the —

First Floor, and by a door on the left enter the —

Ceramic Collection, which fills two rooms with its 4500 spec-
imens.

Room I. To the left of the entrance is a large Moorish-Spanish

336 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. National

vase ; in the first press articles of a similar origin, and majolica
from Urbino and other Italian manufactories, chiefly purchased by
N. Tessin (p. 324) in Italy at the end of the 17th cent. The next
11 large case's contain French, Dutch, German, and Swedish
pottery and porcelain, pottery from the Lower Rhine (Kreussen
and Siegburg), and Wedgwood ware. The eight smaller cases,
standing between the larger ones, contain porcelain from Meissen
(Dresden), Vienna, Berlin, Capo di Monte, the Hague, Amsterdam,
Niederweiler, Frankenthal, Nymphenburg, Rorstrand, Marienberg,
Derby, Copenhagen, St. Petersburg, Sevres (pate tendre), etc.

Room II. Chinese and Japanese porcelain, including a spec-
ially fine collection of the Japanese Chrysanthemum-Peony por-
celain, so-called after its flower-patterns, and of Japanese crackle-
ware (with purposely cracked and scratched glaze), lacquered
vases, and vessels with European patterns (Swedish coats of arms).

Room III. The Collection of Sculptures (catalogue 50 o.) begins
here. This room contains Antiques, chiefly busts of the Roman
imperial epoch, most of them being portraits (66. Bust of Apollo-
doros, an Athenian , with a Greek inscription , curious). Then -.
45. Colossal bust of Venus. The gem of the collection is in the
centre : *1 . Sleeping Endymion, in Parian marble, excavated in
Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli in 1783, and purchased by Gustavus III.
— Handsome Candelabra (180, 181) and a fine Marble Vase (184).
Also a collection of vases and small antiques.

Room IV. Bronzes, chiefly modern copies. Among the few
Renaissance works here is, in the centre, No. 352. Psyche borne
by three Amoretti (from Prague, supposed to be a work of the
school of A. de Vries).

Room V. The principal Antiques are exhibited here. They
are all in the Grseco-Roman style of the empire, and many of them
are marred by restoration. Nos. 3-12. Apollo Citharcedus and the
Nine Muses (Nos. 8 & 10 particularly good); 2. Athena; 201-221.
Greek Tombstones ; 228-236. Roman Tombstones. In the centre:
*107. Fountain, with an interesting relief relating to Romulus and
Remus ; 179. Handsome Rhyton (drinking-vessel) in marble.

Room VI. , a large saloon containing Casts , with a fine view
from the windows. (The following rooms also command good views.)

Room VII. Casts of works of decorative art.

Room VIII. Modern Swedish Sculptures.

Nos. 357-372. Johcm Tobias Set-gel (1740-1814 ; founder of the Swedish
school of sculpture ; in the centre, 359. Psyche and Cupid, his master-piece;
362. Colossal bust of Gustavus III. (to whose court the sculptor was in-
vited) ; 373-376. Erik Gustaf Gothe (1779-1838) ; 377-389. Johan Niklas By-
strbm (1783-1848; a pupil of Sergei); 390, 391, 395, 396. Bengt Erland
Fogelberg (1786-1854) ; 397. Carl Gustaf Qvarnstrom (1810-67) ; 769. Kjell-
berg; 398-401. Johan Peter Molin (1814-73); several works by J. Borjesson.
No. 403. Hylas, by Bissen, a Dane; 404. Magdalena, by Ant. Ifovelli of
Florence (d. 1662) ; 604. Copy by A. Chile of a colossal bust of Alexander
von Humboldt by David d'Angers.

Museum. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 337

Room IX., a small apartment containing casts and models by
Sergei and other Swedish sculptors.

The Collection of Furniture (Rooms X-XIV.), which we next
enter, removed hither from the palace at Ulriksdal (p. 347), is ar-
ranged in a series of rooms and cabinets, according to the various
styles. In the eleventh room, the ornamental furniture (chiefly of
Italian origin) should be noticed, especially two large *Cabinets in
ebony. Room XIII. contains Objects in Metal and Carvings in Wood,
Ivory, and Amber; also four apartments in the style of the 17th
cent., comprising chiefly German furniture. Three detached presses
in this room contain the Collection of Olass. Room XIV. contains
a collection of watches and two apartments with German furniture
of the 17th, and Dutch rococo furniture of the 18th century.

On the left side of Boom X. is a door leading to the sunken floor,
containing the small Egyptian Collection (adm. Tues. and Frid., 11-3).

Another marble staircase ascends to the —

Second Floor, nearly the whole of which is occupied by the
picture-gallery.

The *Gallery of Ancient Masters was formed chiefly during
last century. In 1750 the palaces and chateaux of Stockholm con-
tained 330 of these pictures. The collection was greatly enriched
by Queen Louisa Ulrica, a sister of Frederick the Great, with the
aid of Count Carl G. Tessin, the Swedish ambassador at Paris (1739-
42), whose own collection she purchased. Her son Oustavus III.
followed in her footsteps. From that period date in particular the
interesting series of decorative paintings of the French School,
and also the best Netherlandish works. The Italian pictures con-
sist of the Martelli Collection, purchased at Rome in 1798, and
smaller collections purchased at a later date. More recently the
gallery has been enriched by presentations from patriotic societies
and private donors.

The majority of the German, Spanish, and Italian works are of
little value, but the French school of last century is better re-
presented here than in any other gallery out of Paris. To this de-
partment belong a number of valuable large works by Desportes,
Oudry, Boucher, and Natoire, and several cabinet-pieces by Char-
din and Lancret. — Several of the best Dutch masters of the 17th
cent, are also represented by admirable works : Rembrandt by his
'Ziska', a 'Cook', and several portraits, Rubens by his two copies
from Titian, and Snyders, Jordaens, Fyt, C. de Vos, Steen, Ochter-
velt, Hooch, Wynants, Wouwerman, Dou, Van Ooyen, J. van Ruys-
dael, and Ostade by pictures of great merit. The gallery also pos-
sesses a number of interesting works by rare masters, the value of
which is chiefly historical. — Critical Catalogue byG. Oothe (3 kr.).
Each picture bears the name of its painter.

The entrance to the Ante-Room from the staircase is flanked
by two antique columns brought from Italy by Gustavus III. ;

Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 4th Edit. 22

338 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. National

passing through it, we turn to the right and enter the rooms of the
old masters.

The Italian and Spanish Schools occupy a saloon lighted
from above and three of the six cabinets adjoining it. The other
three cabinets belong to the department of the Modern Schools
(seep. 341}

Saloon. Right side: 133. Leandro Bassano, Festival of Cleopatra;
82. Carlo Bold, Magdalen; Unknown Matters, 759, Still-life, 761. Lazza-
rone, 755. Christ with the crown of thorns. On the wall to the left, 11.
Caravaggio (?), Judith. — 2nd Cabinet: 84. Carlo Dolci, Christ at the
house of Simon the Pharisee. — 3rd Cabinet : four small pictures by
Tiepolof sketches for the decorative works in the Scuola dei Carmini
at Venice.

A room beyond the Italian saloon chiefly contains German and
Early Dutch Pictures.

Nos. 260, 261. B. Dermer , Portraits of an old man and an old wo-
man; 507, 508. Jan Massys, Venus and the amorous old man (1566). —
257. L. Cranach , Charles V. and John Frederick of Saxony hunting. —
370. Jail Brueghel, The market (1609). — 1080. L. Cranach the Elder, Lu-
cretia (1528). — 430. Fr. Floris (Cornells de Vriendt), Sea-gods. — 466. Gillis
d'Hondecoeter, Orpheus. — 1371. Ant. Moro(1), Portrait.

We next reach the Netherlandish School , which occupies a
saloon lighted from above and Ave adjoining cabinets.

Saloon. Entrance-wall : 595. Rubens (school-piece) , The four fathers
of the church; 608. Rubens, Esther and Ahasuerus (a sketch); -607.
Rubens, Daughters of Cecrops finding Erichthonius (a sketch); 596.
Rubens, Susanna in the bath ; "606. Rubens, Samson slaying the lion (a
sketch); "404. Van Dyck, St. Jerome (an early work); ""599, ""600. Rubens,
Sacrifice to Fertility , and a Bacchante, copied by Rubens in 1601-8 from
Titian's famous works then at Rome, but now at Madrid; 386. A. Cuyp,
Family portraits (1661); 581, "582. Rembrandt, Portraits (1655). 585. Rem-
brandt, Portrait of a young man (ca. 1638); 1349. Rembrandt, St. Peter
(1632). — ""578. Rembrandt, The so-called Oath of John Ziska (perhaps rather
an Old Testament subject), of great breadth and very effective, but un-
finished, the master's largest work after the Night Watch at Amsterdam
(about 1654). 517. Paulus Moreelse, Portrait. — 462. Hobbema, Cottage among
trees; 616. Jacob v. Ruysdael, Forest-path; *"584. Rembrandt, 'Portrait of
his cook' (1651) ; -583. Rembrandt, Portrait of Saskia van TJlenburgh (1632) ;
512. G. Metsu, The smithy, a decorative picture of his early period; 637.
Snyders, Still-life ; 577. Pynacker, Waterfall. — "478. G. Huysmans, Lands-
cape ; 636. Snyders, Dogs fighting over their food ; 488. Jordaens, Adoration
of the Shepherds (1618) ; "433. Fyt , Dead game (1651) ; "1159. Jordaens,
King Candaules tempting Gyges; 420. Unknown Artist, Labourers in the
vineyard : "639. P. de Vos, Stag-hunt ; "303. J. d,Arthois, Large , wooded
Flemish landscape ; 486. K. du Jardin, Portrait of H. van Huteren (1674) ;
398. H. Dubbels, Stormy sea; 534. Moeyaerl, Preaching of John the Baptist
11631); 353. P. Soutman, The Evangelists; 1099. J. Breughel, Flower-pot;
500. P. Laslman, Sacrifice to Juno; "1120. Jan de Bray, Flute-player.

I. Cabinet : 423. B. Fabritius, Family at table (1650) ; 1046. G. Horst,
Meeting of Jacob and Esau (1641; a sketch); "418. G. v. d. Eeckhout, The
satyr and the peasant; 442. J. v. Goyen, Halt by a farm; 588. Moepaert,
The angel leaving Tobias; "576. Rembrandt, St. Anastasius in his cell
(1631); 421. A. v. Everdingen, Norwegian fjord (1648); "443. J. v. Goyen,
View of Dordrecht (1655)-. "473. P. de Hooch, Woman by a cradle; "471.
P. de Hooch, The letter; 539. Th. de Keyser, Family portraits; 672,673. W.
van de Velde, Small sea-pieces; 1386. P. Codde, Domestic scene.

II. Cabinet: 310. C. Bega, Music-lesson (1663); 356. R. Brakenburgh,
The dance (1699); 548, 549, 554. A. v. Ostade, Small portraits; "1117. Un-
known Artist, Old woman reading (1668); "550. A. v. Ostade, Peasants

Museum.

STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 339

amusing themselves in front of their house (1660). — A. v. Oslade, 551.
Advocate at his study-table (1664); 552. Interior (1643). 721, 722, 1143,
1163. J. Wynants, Landscapes; 1325. B. Cuyp, Resurrection; 682. S. de
Vlieger, Oak-wood; G. Dou, 393. Magdalen, 394. Portrait of himself; Is.
van Ostade, 557. Youth, 1394. Interior; 1387. P. de Molyn, Landscape.

III. Cabinet: 667, 658, 660. Ochtervelt, Genre-pieces; 618. J. v. Ruys-
dael , View of a seaside-village from the downs (an early work) ; 617.
O. du Bois, Landscape ; 647. J. Steen, Card-players ; 593. Unknown Master
(H. M. Sorght), Butcher; *562. J. van de Capelle, Calm sea (1649); 667. A.
van de Velde, Young shepherd (an early work; 1657); *683. H. van Vliel,
Interior of the church of St. Ursula at Delft ; 510. 6. Metsu, Card-players ;
677. C. Verhout, Sleeping scholar (1663); 326, 327. A. van Beyeren, Fish.

IV. Cabinet: 305. P. v. Asch, Landscape; Th. Wyek, 695. Halt at a
tavern, 720. Portrait; 485. K. du Jardin, Cattle pasturing (1657); 701,
702. Jan Wouverman , Summer and Winter (landscapes); eleven pictures
by Ph. Wouverman, among which may be mentioned Nos. *709 and 714
(Winter-scene, Bridge).

V. Cabinet: 453, 1181. J. de Beem, Still-life; 483. Karel du Jardin,
Italian landscape; 1084. P. de Moucheron, Landscape; 594. W. Romeyn,
Herdsman and cow in a grotto.

Passing through the saloon , and turning to the left, we regain
the staircase, from which a doorway , opposite that of the picture-
gallery , and also flanked by two antique columns , leads to the
left into a room containing the Collection op Engravings and
Drawings. The Collection of Engravings (catalogue 25 6.), the
foundation of which consists of the Crozat Collection purchased
at Paris in the first half of the 18th cent, by Count Carl G. Tes-
sin, now numbers upwards of 80,000 plates.

In the glass-cases are exhibited at present water-colours by Swedish
painters, which are changed from time to time. On the walls are hung a
few large paintings by Swedish masters : 1058, 1250. M. E. Winge, Sub-
jects from northern mythology, 937, 938. /. E. Bergh, Landscapes.

The Drawings, particularly those of the Netherlands Schools,
are also very valuable.

Among them should be noticed a large and admirable portrait by
Lucas vanLeyden; about a dozen genuine drawings by Rubens (including
studies for the Rustic Dance and the portraits of Ferdinand and Francesco
Gonzaga); nearly as many by Van Dyck, rare and excellent (an English
couple, Crucifixion of St. Peter, C. van Geest, etc.) ; a series of very
clever sketches by Adr. Brouwer, D. Tenters, and Adr. van Ostade; and
above all about 50 admirable and important drawings by Rembrandt.
Of these last, ten are exposed to view, and the others are kept in port-
folios. They are chiefly sketches for pictures (Christ appearing to Mary,
for his picture at Brunswick ; Sacrifice of Manoah, at Dresden ; Abra-
ham's Sacrifice, at St. Petersburg, etc.); also a portrait of Titia van
Ulenburgh, his sister-in-law (1639), and several valuable studies.

Returning to the staircase, we next visit a saloon lighted
from above and a cabinet containing the French Pictures.

Saloon : 1326. Jouvenet, St. Bruno ; "845. Pater, Woman skating ; *884.
H. Rigaud, Portrait of Cardinal Fleury; 891-897. J. Vernet, Landscapes;
785. Jean Bapt. Chardin, Still-life; *8&G. Van Loo, Louis XV., full-length
figure. Ft: Boucher, °<>T10. Triumph of Galatea, perhaps the artist's
master-piece (1740); 768. Toilet of Venus (1746); "769. Venus and the
Graces bathing; "771. Leda and the swan. Then, 793. Noel Nic. Coypel,
Judgment of Paris (1728) ; 854. Le Moyne, Venus and Adonis (1729) ; 883.
H. Rigaud, Portrait of Charles XII. in full armour; 861-864, 866, 867,
870, 872. J. B. Oudry, the finest being <!867. (Stag-hunt, an admirable
work); 1313. A. Pesne, Portrait of Ch. Fred. Sparre (1744); 830. Claude

22*

340 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. National

LorrainC?), Large Italian landscape at sunset; 798, 700, 801, 797. Fr.
Desporles the Elder, Large still-life pieces and other good decorative
pictures ; 773. Fr. Boucher, 'Pense-t-il aux raisins' (1747) ; 813. G. Poussin,
Landscape.

Cabinet: 778, etc., Chardin; 772. Fr. Boucher, The toilet (1746); 843,
844. Lancret, The swing, Blind-man's-buff; 874. Pater, The bathers ; 888.
H. Taraval, Venus and Adonis.

The next fom cabinets contain a number of pictures by Flemish
and Dutch painters.

I. Cabinet, to the left of the entrance : *'407. Antwerp Matter, Drawing-
room of Rubens; "653, 654. D. Teniers the Younger, Four smokers at a table
(about 1648), Rustic tavern (1661); 603. Rubens, Susannah in the bath
(small; 1614); 640. Snyders, Still-life; 1146. J. van Es, Still -life; 602.
Rubens, Two naked children (sketch); 1183. J. d'Arthois, Landscape; 1393.
D. Seghers, Flowers.

II. Cabinet: 623. D . Ryckaerl the Younger, Rustic interior ; 390. D. van
Delen, Party at table in a drawing-room (1631); 434, 435. J. Fyt, Still-
life; 1292. M. van Helmont, Rustic festival; 1389. S. Verelst, Flowers.

IV. Cabinet: 528. H. Mommers, Landscape.

Traversing the saloon and proceeding in a straight direction,
we reach a corridor, leading to four rooms dedicated to the Early
Swedish Masters, the most distinguished of whom was.D<ro. Klb-
ker von Ehrenstrahl (1629-98). Two portraits by him (948, 949),
are in the fourth room. — Beyond these rooms is a cabinet con-
taining "Water Colours and Pastel-Drawings. — "We next in-
spect the works of the —

Modern Northern Schools, which may be more correctly describ-
ed as offshoots of the schools of Diisseldorf, Munich, and Paris. The
Norwegian artists in particular , with few exceptions , have been
trained in Germany , where most of them have usually resided,
although they have generally derived their subjects from their native
country. So similar is their style to that of the Germans, that Tide-
mand, Gude, Munthe, and others are usually claimed as members
of the German school. About half of the Swedish masters, on the
other hand, have gone for their art-education to Paris, and the rest
to Germany. The former have as yet produced few great works,
while the latter resemble the average German painters of modem
times. A few Danish masters are also represented here. This de-
partment of the gallery occupies a saloon lighted from above , the
six adjacent cabinets , and the ante-chamber. The following list
comprises works by the more eminent of these artists , whose na-
tionality is indicated by the letters S., N., and D.

Saloon. Left side: 1381. J.Kronberg (S., born 1850), Saul and David;
1319. A. Tidemand (N., 1814-76), The fanatics; *1138. P. G. Wickenberg
(S., 1812-46), Dutch coast; 999. B. Nordenberg (S., b. 1822), Tithe-day in
Skane; 1223. J. A. Malmstrom (S., b. 1829), Dance of elves bv moonlight;
1296. G. 0. Cederstrom(S.,-b. 1841), Epilogue; 1320. C. H. d'Unker (S., 1828-
1866), The pawnbroker; no number, S. M. Larson (S., 1825-64), Norwegian
landscape. —^End-wall : 1154. G. v. Rosen (S., b. 1843), King Eric XIV., with
Catharine Mansdotter and Goran Persson. — Side-wall : 944. Charles XV.
(d. 1872), Swedish landscape; 1275. Morten Miiller (N., b. 1828), Norwegian
landscape; H. A. L. Wahlberg (S., b. 1834), 1155. Landscape, 1027. Winter
landscape with bear-hunt ; 1355. J. Fr. Hockert (S., 1826-66), Burning of the
palace at Stockholm in 1697; 1239. H. A. L. Wahlberg, Twilight on the

Museum. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 341

sea-coast; 1025. C. H. oVUnler, Third-class waiting-room; 1056. F. J.
Fagerlin (S.,b. 1825J, Jealousy; 1316. /. Kronberg, Huntress Nymph; 967.
J. Fr. Hbckert, Lapland interior.

I. Cabinet: 955. Fahlcrantz (S., 1774-1861), View of Kalmar Castle by
moonlight.

II. Cabinet: 1028. J. W. Wahlbom (S. , 1810-58), Death of Gustavus
Adolphus; 1197. N. I. 0. Blommir (S., 1816-53), Neck and the daughters
of iEgir, a scene from northern mythology; 1356. L. A. Lindholm, Interior.

III. Cabinet : J. 0. Wickenberg, *1244. Winter landscape, 1245. Landscape
with cattle; 1215. S. M. Larson, Sea-piece; 1207. J. F. HSckert, Wedding
in Lapland ; 1225. B. Nordenberg, The worried sheep.

IV. Cabinet: 1238. H. A. L. Wahlberg, Landscape; 991. Am. Lindegrin
(S., b. 1814). Girl with an orange.

V. Cabinet: 1113. P. D. Holm (S., b. 1835), Swedish forest; 1156.

0. Salomon (S., b. 1821), Young girl with an open letter in her hand.

VI. Cabinet: 1362. H. Salmson (S., b. 1843), Youthful gleaner;
954. Fagerlin, Fisher-boys smoking ; 1210. Aug. Jernberg, The broken pipe ;
1112. Agnes BSrjesson (S., b. 1827), Old love; 1204. Fagerlin, Convales-
cence; 1293. Q. v. Rosen, Portrait; 1059. G. Rydberg , Landscape; 1364.
Fagerlin, Dutch interior.

We now proceed through the Saloon and the Ante-Room to the three
Cabinets adjoining the Italian and Spanish Saloon, mentioned at p. 338.

1. Cabinet: 1275. Morten Miiller, Norwegian landscape. — II. Cabinet:
1267, 1285, 1336. C. Hansen, The visit, Peasant family mourning, A dan-
gerous witness; 1263, 1266, 1264, 1265, 1343. H. F. Gude, Among the rocky
islands (Skoergard), Old seaman and boy, Mountain-landscape in Wales,
Three sea-pieces; 1277. A. Tidemand, Fortune-teller and Dalecarlian pea-
sant-woman. — III. Cabinet. 1279. Melbye, Sea-piece.

We now return to the Ante-Room, where the most recent purchases
are usually hung. Also 1396. G. v. Rosen (S., b. 1843), Portrait of Nor-
denskjold; 1247. M. E. Winge (S., b. 1825), 1198, 1252. Arbo (N., b. 1831),
Scenes from northern mythology; 1222. Malmstrbm, Ingeborg receiving
tidings of Hjalmar's death; 1026. Wahlberg, Swedish landscape; 1282. C.
F. Sorenson(D., 1818-79), Sea-piece; 1363. G. 0. Cederstrbm, The corpse of
Charles XII. (p. 278) on its way to Sweden (winter-scene). — Regaining
the staircase, we descend and quit the building.

The open and partially planted space in front of the N.W. fa-
cade of the National Museum is embellished with the *Baltespan-
nare ('girdle-duellists'), an admirable group in bronze, the master-
piece of Molin , the talented Swedish sculptor. It represents one
of those murderous old Scandinavian duels in which the comba-
tants were bound together with their 'belts' and proceeded to fight
out their battle with their knives. As these 'Knifgange' often ter-
minated fatally to one or even both the duellists , the women used
to carry a winding-sheet for their husbands to banquets where
quarrels were likely to arise (comp. Pontoppidari s 'Ferste Forsag
paa Norges naturlige Historie', Copenhagen. 1752; and 'Fani-
tullen' , a Norwegian poem by Moe). The four reliefs on the ped-
estal , with their Runic inscriptions from the Edda , represent the
origin and the issue of the combat.

1. Drinking. lAr ikke sa godt, som godl (de) saga, si (for) menniskors
toner; ty allt mindre vet, som mer dricker , till sitt sinne mannen\ ('Not
so good as good they say it is, is ale for the sons of men; for the man
knows in his mind always less, the more he drinks'.) — 2. Jealousy.
^Qalnu fran kloka gorer menniskors sSner han den miikliga kiirlekei>\
( Mighty love makes fools of wise sons of men.) — 5. Beginning

342 Route 44. STOCKHOLM. SMermalm.

of the Combat. ^Drogo de ur skidan skidejem , svardets eggar till behag
(for) trollen\ ('They draw the knife out of the sheath , the edge of the
sword, to the satisfaction of the evil spirit1.) — 4. The Widow's Lament.
'Ensam ar jag vorden torn asp i lunden, fattig p& frander som furan pa
qvistar'. ('Solitary am I become, like the aspen in the grove, poor in
relations, as the fir in tranches').

SODERMALM.

The least interesting part of the town is the Sodebmalm , or
S. quarter, situated on the mainland beyond the 'Sluss1, the bridge
connecting it with the Stad. Its situation , however , is pictur-
esque, and it is built on the natural undulations of the rock. One
of the principal streets bears the characteristic name of Besvars-
gata ('fatigue street'). The chief attraction to travellers in this
part of the town , and. one that should not be missed , is the view
from the Katarina Hissen, to which we now direct our steps.

At the S. end of Staden lies the Sluss-Plan (PI. E, F, 6;
tramway terminus, see p. 319) , adjoined on the W. by the Korn-
hamns-Torg (p. 326) and on the S. by the Soderstrom, an efflux of
Lake Malaren , through which smaller vessels pass by means of a
'Sluss' ('lock' or 'sluice'). This channel is crossed by two iron
bridges , leading to the Sodermalm , and commanding a view of
the busy market-traffic in the neighbourhood. Between the bridges
lies an open space called the Karl-Johans- Torg (station of steam-
tramway), embellished with an equestrian Statue of Charles XIV.
John (PI. E, 6), erected by Oscar I. in 1854. The monument,
which represents the king in the costume of a Swedish marshal,
was designed by Fogelberg.

We turn towards the left from the bridge and reach the *Kata-
rina Hissen (PI. E, F, 6), or steam-lift, opened in 1883, which
raises us in less than a minute to the top of the Sodermalm (ascent
5 o. ; descent 3 o.). On the platform at the top is a restaurant,
which affords the best **View of Stockholm and its environs. At
our feet extends the Saltsjo, enlivened with numerous sea-going
ships, among which the small steam-launches dart hither and
thither. The most prominent of the buildings of the town are the
Palace and the National Museum. To the right lies the Djurgard-
stad, backed by the oaks of the Djurgard and the neighbouring-
rocky heights ; to the left stretches Lake Malaren. The view has
its special charms at each season of the day. — An iron viaduct,
160 yds. long, leads from the platform of the Hissen to the Mose-
backe-Torg(Pl. F, 7), on the N. side of which are the Sodra Teatern
(PI. 45) and the entrance to the *Mosebacken (PI. 29 ; F, 7 ; Va-
riete-Theatre, Restaurant & Cafe, pp. 318, 321).

The handsome Katarina- Kyrka (PI. F, 7), founded in 1659 on
the spot where the victims of the 'Stockholm Blood-bath' of 1 520
had been interred, and rebuilt in the Renaissance style in 1724,
is surrounded by a cemetery. From this church the Tjarhofs-Gata

Environs. STOCKHOLM. 44. Route. 343

(PI. F, G, H, 7) leads to the E. in i/4 hr. to Danvik , whence a
small steamei runs hourly on the Hammarby-Sjo to Nackanas , a
favourite holiday-resort of the Stockholmers (p. 347).

To the W. of the bridges crossing to Sodermalm, near the point
where the Bellmans-Gata joins the Soder-Malar-Strand (formed
by blasting the Toeks ; steam-launch from the Kornhamns-Torg,
p. 326), rises the *Maria Hissen (PI. E, 6 ; 92 ft. high ; 6 o.), an-
other lift or elevator, with a cafe-restaurant affording a fine view.

Environs.

Both the immediate and more remote environs of Stockholm
afford a great variety of beautiful walks and excursions , and most
of the points of interest may be reached expeditiously , cheaply,
and pleasantly by one or other of the numerous little steamers which
flit about in every direction, both on the Baltic and Lake Malaren.
The information given below as to the times of the departure of the
steamers should be checked on the spot or by a reference to the
latest number of the Sveriges Kommunikationer (comp. p. 320).

One of the most attractive places near the city is the charming
Djurgard or Park ('deer-garden'), to which steamers ply every 10-
15 min. from the Stromparterre, Karl XII.'sTorg, the Rantmastare-
Trappa, and the Nybro (in 8-10 min. ; comp. p. 320). It may also
be reached by tramway-car from Slussen, via Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg,
Karl den Tolftes Torg, Grefbron , and the Ladugardlands Strand-
Gata. Excursionists by steamer should observe that Alkarret (PI.
H, 4) is the starting-point for the boats to Karl den Tolftes Torg
and the Stromparterre , the points nearest the hotels ; while the
boats from the Allmanna-Orand (PI. H, I, 5, 4) land their passen-
gers at Staden and the Skeppsholm.

Instead, however, of proceeding direct to the Park, we cross the
Skeppsholms-Bro, leading from the National Museum to the Skepps-
holm (PI. F, G, 4, 5), a small island containing some of the chief
military and naval establishments of Stockholm. — A monument
has been erected here in commemoration of the Polar Expedition
conducted by Prof. Erik Nordenskjbld in 1878-80.

Passing the Karl-Johans-Kyrka on the left, and several hand-
some barracks on the right, a pleasant shady road leads to the S.E.
to a wooden bridge by which we cross to the small Kastellholm or
Castle Island, which also contains several barracks and other build-
ings. The * Tower on the highest point of this island commands
an admirable view of the environs ('vaktmastare', or one of the
sailors on guard, 506.; ascent of 94 steps, and then by an iron
ladder of 8 steps more). On this island stands also the pretty club-
house of the Stockholm Skating Club (Skridskoklubben).

Retracing our steps to the bridge, we cross it and turn to the
right, soon reaching the little steam ferry-boat which plies every

344 Route 44. DJURGARD. Environs

few minutes between the Skeppsholm and the Allmanna - Grand
(3 o.). Crossing to the latter (which is also the tramway-terminus,
p. 319), we pass through the small suburb of Djurgards-Stad, and
thus reach the —

*Djurgard, a delightful park, of which Stockholm is justly
proud, with pleasant villas, and beautiful walks in every direction.
It occupies an island 2 Engl. M. in length , and 3/4 M. in width at
its broadest part, and was laid out by Gustavuslll. and Charles XIV.
John, having originally been a deer-park, as its name imports.
Opposite Alkarret, a small Plats planted with trees, where most
visitors land, is Hammer's Villa , which formerly belonged to By-
strom, the sculptor ; beyond this, to the left, is the small Djurgards-
Teater (PI. J, 3) , near which the tramway passes. Opposite the
Allrnanna-Grand , and a few paces to the S.E. of Alkarret, is the
entrance to *Hasselbaeken (p. 318), the largest and best of the nu-
merous cafe's and restaurants situated here. The grounds command
tine views and contain an oak ('■Bellmans Ek') under the shade of
which Karl Michael Bellman (d. 1795), the most genial and popular
of Swedish poets, composed some of his charming songs. In the
vicinity is a bronze statue of the poet, by Nystrorn, erected in 1872.

Leaving the Hasselbacke , and passing several other cafes,
marionette theatres, and places of popular entertainment, the best
of which is the *Tivoli, we follow the road to the E. and reach the
open park, with its grassy glades, rocky knolls, and beautiful trees,
between which frequent glimpses of the Baltic and Stockholm are
obtained. On the left, a little beyond the Djurgards-Stad, is a
beautiful spot called Bellmans-Bo, with a bust of the great poet and
improvisatore, many of whose most beautiful ballads are said to
have been made extempore and without effort. The bust (by By-
strbm, erected in 1829) is the scene of great festivities on 26th
July, the anniversary of its erection, when crowds of the poet's ad-
mirers of all classes assemble here to recite his poetry and extol his
genius. Among the most famous and beautiful of his lines are the
following : —

Hvila vid denua kalla ! Himmel ! hvad denna runden,

Var lilla frukost vi framstalla : Af friska loftran saninianbunden,

Rodt vin med pinipinella Vidgar en plan i lunden

Och en nyss skjuten beckasin. Med strcidda g&ngar och behag !

Klang, hvad buteljer, Ulla ! Ljufligt der lofven susa,

I vara korgar, iifverfulla, I svarta hvirflar, gra och ljusa,

Tiimda i graset rulla — Traden en skugga krusa

Aek kann, hvad angan dunsfer fin ! Inunder skyars flakt och drag.

Ditt middagsvin. Tag, Ulla, tag,

Sku vi ur krusen halla Vid denna maltidsstunden,

Med gladtig rain. Ditt glas som jag!

Hvila vid denna kalla ! Himmel ! hvad denna runden
Hor vara valdthorns klang, kusin ! Bepryds af blommor, tusen slag.

Beyond Bellmans-Ro, on the right, is Frisens-Park, another
beautiful part of the Djurgard, and a very popular resort on Sun-
day afternoons, for singing and dancing, although, strange to say,

Mskarn
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of Stockholm. MARIEBERG. U. Route. 345

no spirits are sold here. Farther on, 25 min. walk from Hassel-
backen, is Manilla, a large asylum for the blind and the deaf and
dumb (shown Thursdays, 11-1 ; 'har ser man ilia, har hor man ilia,
och har talar man ilia', say the local wits). About V4 br. farther,
at the E. end of the island, is the former custom-house station of
Blockhusudden.

On the N. side of the Djurgard , a few hundred paces from the
bridge crossing to Djurgardsbrunn , is Rosendal, a royal villa built
by Charles XIV. John, with orangeries and hot-houses. At the back
of the villa, on the N. side, stands a magnificent modern Porphyry
Vase, of antique form, 8]/2 f*- nigh and lli/iit. in diameter, and
said to weigh 23/4tons. Adjoining the grounds of Rosendal on the
W. is the garden of the Trcidgards - Forening , or horticultural so-
ciety, in which some travellers will be interested. A little to the
W. of this garden is the Sirishof-Vag , from which a path anil a
road ascend in 5 min. to the *Belvedere, a tower erected in 1877,
110ft. in height, standing on a hill upwards of 250ft. above the
sea-level, and affording an excellent survey of the environs (166
steps in all; admission 506.). The distant view, however, is more
extensive than picturesque. There being no mountains in sight,
and little or no cultivated land , the distance presents a somewhat
dreary appearance, the sombre tints of the forests being relieved
here and there by water only. Another path ascends to the Bel-
vedere between the Hasselbacken and Manege restaurants (Y4 hr.).

About '/« hr. to the N. of the Djurgard, on a bay of the Saltsjo called
Lilla Vartan, is the new Harbour of Stockholm, or Viirtanhamnen, con-
nected with the central railway-station by a junction line (8 Kil. in 25 min.,
fare 40, 30, 20 0.; intermediate stations Karlberg, Norrtull, and Albano).

From the islet of Beckholmen, to the S. of the Djurgard, with dry-
docks and tar-works, a ferry-boat plies to Tegelviken (p. 548).

Next in point of interest to the Djurgard is the short excursion
to *Marieberg, a beautiful point of view on Lake Malaren, about
2 Engl. M. to the "W. of the Norrbro, which may be reached either
by steamer (from the S. end of the Biddarholm , every hour at
the half-hours; fare 12 o.) or by road (cabs and tramway, see
p. 319). The traveller is recommended to go by road and return by
steamer. A tramway-car conveys us in 1/4 hr. from the Gustaf-
Adolfs-Torg to the W. to the Kungsholm (PI. B, A, 4), an island
about 2 Engl. M. long, on which the W. quarter of Stockholm is
situated. On the right we pass the Serafimer Lazaret, opposite to
which is the Carolinska Institut, a medical school connected with
it (p. 322), and on the left the Mint; then the Ulrica- Eleonora Kyrka
on the right, and, farther on, the large and handsome Military
Hospital (PI. A, 4), on the left. The tramway ends at the Pil-
Oatan. After a walk of about 1/4 hr. from the tramway-terminus
we come to another hospital ('Sjukhjus', for incurables) on the left,
and immediately beyond it diverge by a road to the left, passing

346 Route 44. KARLBERG. Environs

in front of the large Lunatic Asylum of Conradsberg. In 5 min.
more we pass the lodge at the S. end of the asylum , follow the
road through the gateway to the left, and then (4 min.) through
a second gateway. Just beyond it a path ascends in 3 min. more
to a rocky knoll, adjoining the rocket-laboratory, which commands
a beautiful view of Lake Malaren and Stockholm, entirely different
from the views on the Baltic side of the town. — Returning to the
road, we follow it to the left and soon reach the formerly (1759-88)
famous porcelain manufactory of Marieberg , now occupied by the
'military train' battalion. A path passing the large bell and de-
scending to the right leads in a few minutes to the steamboat-pier
(steamer to Stockholm 8 times daily).

Travellers arriving by steamer ascend 60 paces, turn to the right, and
then to the left, past the large bell. Opposite are two paths, of which
they select that slightly to the right. After a few paces more (5 min.
from the pier) the path to the best point of view diverges to the right.

Another short excursion may be taken to the palace of Karl-
berg and the Solna Kyrka. Steam-launohes leave the Riddar-
hushamn (near the Vasa Bridge; PI. D, 4) every 72 nr- f°r Hor-
strand (12 o.) and Karlberg (12 o.).

The steamboat steers to the N. of the Kungsholm, passing
through the Klarasjo, Barnhusvik, and Rorstrandsvik, The prin-
cipal intermediate stations are Atlas, with a railway-carriage fac-
tory, and Rorstrand, with the oldest porcelain factory in Sweden,
founded in 1727, and distinguished for the original forms and
peculiarly bright colouring of its productions.

The palace of Karlberg, situated on the mainland to the
N. of the Kungsholm, about 2 Engl. M. to the N.W. of the
Norrbro , was erected by Karlsson Gyllenhjelm , a natural son of
Charles IX. (p. 351), at the beginning of the 17th cent., was after-
wards occupied by the royal family, and in 1792 was enlarged and
converted into a military school. At the back of the building is
a beautiful public *Park (always open), which forms the only at-
traction of the place. From the end of an avenue on the E. side
(5 min.), we may cross the railway to Upsala at a small halting-
place, turn to the left, and follow the road to ^hr.) Solna Kyrka,
a round church, and one of the most ancient in Sweden , with a
pretty churchyard which has long been the burial-place of some
of the principal families of Stockholm. Berzelius, the chemist (d.
1848), is buried here. On the N.E. side of the church is the
principal Cemetery (Nya Kyrkogarden) of Stockholm , containing
many handsome monuments, but contrasting unpleasingly with the
old churchyard. Farther to the E. are the entrance to the park of
Haga (see below ; omnibus to Stockholm in the afternoon), and the
omnibus and steamboat station of Stallmdstaregarden , at the W.
entrance of the park of Bellevue (see p. 347).

of Stockholm. ULRIKSDAL. 44. Route. 347

Among the pleasantest of the shorter excursions from Stock-
holm is that to Haqa and Ulriksdal, which may be made either
by land or by small steamer.

Tramway as far as Nya Kyrkogarden , the station opposite Haga (see
(p. 320), fare 15 6.

Omnibuses. 1. From the Gustaf-Adolfs-Torg, at the corner of the
Strbmgata (PI. E, D, 4), to Stallmastaregarden at 7, 7.30, and 9.30 a.m.
(Sun. and holidays 9.30 and 11.30 a.m.) and 1.30, 3.30, 5.30, 7.30, and 9.30
p.m. ; fare 35 6. — 2. From the Adolf s-Fredriks- Plan (PI. C, 1, 2) to Haga
every l/i hr. from 7.30 a.m. to 9.30 p.m. (fare 25 6.) ; also 12 times daily
to Stallmastaregarden.

Steam Launches (belonging to the 'Saltsjo-Turer'). 1. From Quslaf
III.'s Statue (PI. E, F, 4) twice daily past the S. side of the Djurgard, and
the Varta-Harbour (p. 345) on the Lilla Vartan, and through the Lidingbbro
and the Stocksund to Ulriksdal (l'/4 hr., fare 70 6.) and Nytorp (2 hrs.,
fare 70 6.). — 2. From Stallmastaregarden across the Kraftrik to Haga
(12 min., fare 20 6.) and Ulriksdals Allee (27 min., fare 20 6.) hourly
from 7.30 a.m. till 8.30 p.m. (except at 12.30 and 1.30 on week - days).
— 3. From Stallmdstareghrden to Haga (12 min., fare 25 <>.) and through
the strait of Alkistan to Ulriksdal (40 min., fare 35 6,) at 8 and 10 a.m.
(Sun. 10 and 12) and at 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 p.m.

Railway from the Central Station to Norrtull (p. 345), to the S. of the
park of Haga, and to Jerfva (p. 355), to the W. of Ulriksdal.

Carriage to Ulriksdal and back 6-8 kr.

The Norrtulls Gatan (comp. PI. B, 1), the N. prolongation of the
Drottning-Gatan , beyond the Observatory (p. 333) , leads direct
to the inn of Stallmastaregarden, an important omnibus and steam-
boat station at the W. entrance of the royal park of Bellevue, and
at the S. end of the bay of Brunnsviken.

About 6-8 min. farther to the left is the entrance to the park
of Haga , from which we reach the chateau in 1/i hr. The steam-
launches from Stockholm and the Stallmastaregarden land their
passengers close to the chateau. The royal chateau of *Haga, on the
W. bank of the pretty Brunnsvik, was built by Gustavus III. and his
successor at the end of last century, but has since been somewhat
neglected. The gardens , and particularly the park with its fine
old timber, are the attractions of the place and deserve a visit.

At the N. end of the Brunnsvik, about 2 Engl. M. from the
Stallmastaregarden, and IY4M. from Haga, lies Nedre Jerfva (a
few hundred paces to the E. of the railway-station of Jerfva, see
p. 355), usually known as Ulriksdals Allee (steamer, see above), a
fine avenue with a number of pleasant villas , which leads to the
N. in V4hr. to the royal chateau of *Ulriksdal, beautifully situated
on the Edsvik , a long and narrow creek of the Baltic. It was
erected at the beginning of the 17th cent, by General Jacob de la
Gardie and named Jacobsdal , after which it passed into the pos-
session of Prince Ulrik, a son of Charles XI., from whom it derives
its present name. In the neighbouring park is Ulriksdals- Kyrka,
erected in 1865 in the Dutch Renaissance style.

A favourite holiday-resort of the Stockholmers , but less interesting
than those already mentioned, is NackanSs (Caft), at the E. end of the

348 Route 44. LAKE MALAREN. Excursions

Hammarby-Sjo , 3 Engl. M. to the S.E. of the Norrbro. The pleasantest
route to it is by steamer from the Rantmastare-Trappa (PI. F, 5, 6) to
(every 1/t hr. ; fare 8 6.) Tegelviken (PI. I, 7); thence on foot to (10 min.) a
pier on the N. bay of the Hammarby-Sjo; and by small steamer on the
lake to Nackanas in 20 min. more (25 oj. Fine view from the hill to the
S. above Nacka. The steamer then passes through the bridge and enters
the Jdrla-Sjo, where it touches at several stations.

Longer Excursions.

The Baltic to the E. and Lake Malaren to the W. of Stockholm,
with their numerous wooded and rocky islands , and their bays,
creeks , and straits in every direction , present many points of in-
terest , all of which are most conveniently reached by steamboat.
The favourite excursions are to Drottningholm (see below), to
Vaxholm (p. 352), and to Upsala (R. 46), but a few additional
days should if possible be devoted to some of the picturesque and
historically interesting places on Lake Malaren, such as Gripsholm,
Strengnas, and Vesteras (p. 315).

Lake Malaren. Malaren, a lake 80 Engl. M. long, and only
about a couple of feet higher than the Baltic level, forms a vast
archipelago of islands resembling the 'Skargard' on the coast.
There are upwards of 1200 islands (bar and holmar) in all ; the
more open parts of the lake are called fjcirde ; and there are creeks
and ramifications in every direction , the longest of which is that
of Upsala, extending about 30 Engl. M. from the central part of
the lake. Beautiful as the scenery is, it lacks variety, the islands
being all of very moderate height and similar in character, and the
colouring somewhat sombre.

About 7 Engl. M. to the W. of .Stockholm (steamer 7 times daily,
on Sun. 12 times, from Oymnasii-Oranden, the S. quay of Riddar-
ftoZmm, in 3/4hr., fare 506.; carriage there and back 8 kr., high-road
very muddy after rain, and very dusty in dry weather) is situated
the royal palace of ^Drottningholm, on the Loft), one of the most
beautiful of the numerous islands of Lake Malaren. — Soon after
starting from the Riddarholm, the steamer passes the Langholm on
the left, with several manufactories and villas. To the S. of the
Langholm is the Reimersholm with its large distillery, a rocky height
above which is marked by a cross and iron plate with an inscription
in memory of a Russian buried here by his own desire (fine view).
< »n the right is the former military school of Marieberg (p. 345) ;
then the islands of Lilla and Stora Essingen. On the left the is-
land of Ekensberg, with the loftily situated chateau of Hagersten
on the mainland to the S., to the N.W. of which lies Klubbtn and
many other villas, on the coast. A little farther on, the Sigtuna
and Upsala arm of the lake diverges to the N.W. Passing the Kerso
on the right, and rounding the Fogelii, we soon reach the palace,
situated a few paces to the S. of the village of Drottningholm and
the bridge which connects the island with the Kersu. At the land-
ing-place is a good Cafe.

from Stockholm. DROTTNINGHOLM. 44. Route. 349

The Palace derives its name ('Queen's Island') from the queen
of John III. by whom it was founded at the close of the 16th cent.,
and the foundation of the present handsome edifice was laid by
Hedvig Eleonora, widow of Charles X., nearly a century later. The
architects were the eminent Nicodemus Tessin, who designed
the Palace at Stockholm , and his son, Carl Oustav , by whom the
building was completed early in the 17th century. The palace
was handsomely fitted up by subsequent monarchs , and contains
a number of sumptuously furnished apartments, adorned with por-
traits of the royal families of Sweden and other works of art. Ad-
mission usually granted after midday (fee 1 kr., for a party 50 6. each).
Adjacent is a theatre, built by Gustavus III. The gardens, which
are laid out partly in the old French style , are embellished with
sculptures in bronze and marble by Adr. de Vries and his pupils.
The *Park affords delightful walks. One of the chief curiosities
here, a little to the S.W. of the palace, is the Chinese Pagoda
('Kina Slott'), erected by Adolphus Frederick about 1770 as a
surprise for Ms queen Lovisa Ulrika. It still contains a small
museum of Chinese objects. Adjoining it on the W. is the so-
called Canton , founded by the same king , who was an adept in
the arts of turning and lock-making, as a settlement for his work-
men. About 1 Engl. M. to the W. of the Canton is the Church of
Lofo , from which a pleasant road to the N., and then to the E.,
leads back to the village (2y4 M.).

From the Canton a road leads to the S. to the Malmvik. where a
bridge crosses to the long narrow island of Munso, extending towards the
N.W. Between that island and the Lofo lies the island of Svartsjo,
on the E. side of which, on the Hillersjovik, is situated the dilapidated
chateau of Svartsjo, once a monastery , afterwards fortified by Gustavus
Vasa, and at a later period used as a residence by several dowager
queens of Sweden. Near the chateau is a large nursery-garden. (Two
steamers touch in the vicinity daily.)

The next point of interest on Lake Malaren is Mariefbbd with
the castle of Gripsholm, the steamer for which (at 3.30 p.m. daily
except Thurs. & Sun.) starts from the Munkbrohamn (Malar Torg ;
PI. E, 5) and makes the voyage in 33/4 hrs. (fares l'/2 or 1 kr.)
returning next day. On Sundays excursion-steamers frequently
ply to Mariefred, returning the same day.

The steamboat first steers to the W. between Fogelbn and the
mainland , and then turns towards the S. , passing the island of
Kungshatt, so named from a rock surmounted with a pole and an
iron hat, which commemorate the tradition that Olaf Haraldsson,
king of Norway , when pursued by the king of Sweden , sprang
with his horse from the cliff into the lake and escaped, leaving
his hat behind him. Farther on we pass Fittja in a creek to the
left, and the church of Eckero on the island of Munso to the right,
opposite which is the chateau of Sturehof. The island of Kagge-
holm is named after Fieldmarshal Kagg, by whom the chateau at the

350 Route ii. GRIPSHOLM. Excursions

N.W. end was built. A little to tlie N.W. is the Bjorkb, the an-
cient Birka, where St. Ansgar first preached Christianity in 829.
That the island was once an important place is proved by the anti-
quities and remains of ancient buildings recently discovered in
it. In 1834 a granite cross was erected on the island to com-
memorate the thousandth anniversary of St. Ansgar's missionary
labours in Sweden. Farther N. is the Adels'6, the ancient seat of
the Folkunga tribe. "We pass the Rido , turn to the S. , and enter
the Gripsholms- Vik, on the W. bank of which (not visible from the
steamer) is Rdfsnas, the gard where Gustavus Vasa received tid-
ings of the death of his father Eric in the massacre of 1520 (p. 326).
On the S. bank of the bay is the chateau of Ndsby, and in a creek
to the W. of it Mariefred with its castle.

The small town of Mariefred (Stadskallare) owes its origin
partly to the monastery of St. Mary founded here at the end of the
15th cent, by Stem, Sture the Elder, whose remains were buried in
it in 1504 and afterwards removed to Strengnas, but chiefly to the
ancient castle of *Gripsholm. The original building was enlarged
and fortified by the famous Bo JonssonGrip ('the griffin'), the all-
powerful minister, or rather co-regent, of King Albert from 1371
to 1385, and was afterwards presented by Sten Sture the Elder to
the monastery. Soon afterwards Gustavus Vasa suppressed the mon-
astery and took possession of the castle, which he re-erected and
fortified anew in 1537. It was subsequently enlarged and em-
bellished by Gustavus III., who left it in its present form. The
principal building , with its four massive towers , is pentagonal
in shape, and encloses two courts, still presenting many of the
features of a mediaeval stronghold. In the outer court are two
huge cannon , popularly called the 'boar' and the 'sow', captured
by Jacob de la Gardie at Ivanogrod in 1581 . In the interior (fee
1 kr. ; more for a party) are shown the rooms where John, the son
of Gustavus Vasa, was kept a prisoner by his brother Eric XIV.,
and where the latter when insane was afterwards confined by
John III., who deposed him in 1568. The reputed prison of
John III. was afterwards used as a bedroom by Charles Duke of
Sodermanland (afterwards Charles IX.) ; the decorative work dates
from the beginning of the 17th cent. only. Nine years later the un-
happy Eric was poisoned at Orbyhus by his brother's order (see
p. 363). The small room shown here as his prison was really built
at a later date. The unpopular Gustavus IV. signed his abdication
here in 1809, and an adjoining apartment is said to have been
used by his father as a dressing - room for private theatricals in
which he himself took part. The castle contains a very exten-
sive collection of portraits of historical personages, nearly 2000 in
all, including Gustavus Vasa and his son Eric XIV. , painted by
the latter, and a number of their contemporaries, the ambassadors
present at the conclusion of the Peace of "Westphalia in 1648,

from Stockholm. STRENGNAS. 44. Route. 351

Gustavus III. and his contemporaries, and many others. A collec-
tion of mediaeval furniture, tapestry, and plate also deserves in-
spection. — About 4*/2 EngL M. to the W. of Mariefred is the ex-
tensive cannon-foundry of Aker , near which are the gunpowder-
mills of Racksta. — To the N.W. of Mariefred (12 Engl. M.) lies
Strengnas (see below).

The next interesting place on the 8. bank of Lake Malaren is
Strengnas, which is called at by a large proportion of the steamers
plying on the Malaren , so that travellers have at least two
opportunities daily of making this excursion. Most of the steam-
ers start from the Munkbrohamn (PI. D, 5), and some from the
Riddarholm. The passage takes 3l/$-A: hrs. ; fares 2^2 or il/% kr.

The steamers to Strengnas, after passing the entrance to the
Gripsholmsvik (p. 350), steer between the mainland and the Selao,
which formerly belonged to several families of historical note. To
the right, on the island , is the conspicuous farm of Melsaker,
once a richly furnished chateau , and near it is the church of
Ytter-Selo. On the mainland lies Sundby , beyond which we
observe to the right the small Tynnelso , "with a building once
occupied by the bishops of Strengnas. We now enter a narrow
strait between the Tostero and the mainland , and soon stop at
Strengnas (Hotel), a town with 1700 inhab. , prettily situated.
The history of the place reaches back to the pagan era. A monas-
tery was afterwards erected here, and in 1291 a bishopric estab-
lished. Gustavus Vasa was elected king at Strengnas in 1523,
and the throne was secured to his heirs by a decree passed here
in 1547. Half the town was burned down in 1871, but has since
been rebuilt. The handsome Gothic * Cathedral was consecrated in
1291, but took fire on the occasion. It was afterwards restored,
but again repeatedly injured by fire, and has undergone frequent
alterations. It now ranks fourth in importance among the cathe-
drals of Sweden. The disproportionate thickness of the pillars is
accounted for by the fact that after a fire in 1551 the walls of the
church were lowered 30 feet. The choir is now the most inter-
esting part. Charles IX. (d. 1609), with his two wives and several of
his children, Sten Sture the Elder (d. 1504), Karlsson Gyllenhjelm
(d. 1650), a natural son of Charles IX., a distinguished general,
and a pious theologian and author (on whose monument are placed
the fetters worn by him when a captive in Poland), Adm. Stenbock,
and other eminent persons lie buried here. The church also contains
some reminiscences of the famous bishop Conrad Rogge (d. 1501).
The old episcopal mansion built by Rogge, with picturesque gables
and turrets, now used as a school-house, contains the room on the
upper floor where the election of Gustavus Vasa took place. A
building to the "W. of the church contains the Episcopal Library, a
valuable collection, and a small museum and cabinet of coins.

352 Route 44. VAXHOLM. Excursions

A little to the S. of Strengnas is the estate of Ulfhall or Oliveliall,
and in the neighbourhood are several other pleasant country-houses. —
A road leads to the W. to Thorshdlla and Eskilstuna (p. 353), about
21 Engl. M. distant, but it is preferable to proceed thither by water or
by railway (see R. 45).

The N. bank of Lake Malaren, between Stockholm and Vesteras,
though also picturesque, is less interesting than the S. bank. The
ramification to Sigtuna and Vpsala, 30 Engl. M. in length, is de-
scribed in R, 46b. Enkbping, see p. 316. Vesteras, see p. 315.

The Baltic. Of the numerous excursions which may be made
by steamboat on the Baltic, on the E. side of Stockholm, those
which will repay the traveller best are to (1) Vaxholm and to (2)
Gustafsberg. From the former , if time permit , the voyage may
be prolonged to Norrtelge and Osthammar, and from the latter to
Dalar'6.

The Saltsjo , or bay of the Baltic at the end of which Stock-
holm stands, is like the Malaren, dotted with innumerable islands
and rocks , separated by wider or narrower channels. Its length
from Stockholm to the outermost rocks is nearly 40 Engl. M.

1. Vaxholm. Steamboats ply from Stockholm to Vaxholm 8-10
times daily. The direct local boats start from the Logardstrappan
(PI. E, 4), but the Brottby boat starting from the Nybrohamn
(PI. F, 3), and the steamers of several different lines starting
from Karl den Tolftes Torg (PI. E, 3, 4), also call at Vaxholm.
Passage V/z-l hrs. ; fare 50-75 o.

The steamer passes the Djurgard , the entrance to the Lilla
Vartan (p. 345), and the Lidingb on the left, and the Hastholm,
the entrance to the Skurusund , the Hasseludde, and Kum-
melnas on the right. It then traverses a broader part of the fjord,
passing the Askrike Fjard on the left, and threads its way be-
tween rocky islands until it stops beneath the guns of the fortress.

The rocky island of Vaxholm (*Hotel) lies about 12 Engl. M.
to the N.E. of Stockholm. The small town, with 2000 inhab. who
are chiefly fishermen, is freqented for sea-bathing. On a small
rocky island between the Vaxholm and the Rindb rises the im-
posing Fortress (to which strangers are admitted on showing
their passports), founded in the middle of the 16th cent, by
(iustavus I. and lately much strengthened. On the E. end of the
Kindo is the new fortress of Oskar-Fredriksborg, paTtly hewn out
of the solid rock. The two strongholds command the only prac-
ticable approach to Stockholm for large vessels. Opposite Oskar-
Fredriksborg is the Fredriksborg , a picturesque ruined tower on
the Vermd'6, by which the passage was formerly guarded.

2. Another very favourite excursion from Stockholm is to the
porcelain manufactory of Gustafsberg, 10 Engl. M. to the E. of
Stockholm, but reached by a somewhat circuitous route (steamboat

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from Stockholm. GUSTAFSBERG. 44. Route. 353

7 times daily from Rantmastaretrappan, PI. E, F, 4, in 2l/2^TS.,
fare 75 b\). The steamer steers down the fjord to Kungshamn, and
then suddenly turns at a right angle towards the S. into the very
narrow and picturesque *Skurusund, separating the Vermdo from the
mainland. At the S. end of the strait lies Dufnas , where Gustaf
Vasa is said to have fought against the Danish usurpers in his youth.
This point may also be reached by the pleasant route from Stock-
holm to Kolbotten at the E. end of the Jarla-Sjo (p. 348), from which
the traveller may walk to Dufnas in 25 min. ; or this route may
be taken in returning. At Dufnas the strait expands, but farther
on the steamer proceeds towards the E. through another and even
narrower strait called Sbdra Staket, beyond which it enters the
broad and almost entirely land-locked Baggew-Fjard, named
after Jacob Bagge (d. 1577), a Swedish naval hero, and steers
to theN.E. to Gustafsberg, where the porcelain manufactory is the
chief object of interest. One of the specialties of the place is
the tasteful Parian and biscuit china, which is favourably known
beyond the limits of Sweden (visitors admitted).

From the Baggens-Fjard, a little to the S. of Gustafsberg, another
narrow channel, part of which is called the Stromma Canal, separating
the Vermdo from the Ingarii, and also traversed daily by steamers,
leads to Stafmas and the bleak little island of Sandhainn, a genuine
specimen of a Scandinavian 'skaV, but boasting of a post-oflice and tele-
graph-station.

Steamers also run from the Stake to the S. to Dalaro, a rocky
promontory with a picturesque old tower, and a favourite sea-bathing
place, with an inn. Steamboats occasionally run from Dalaro to the S.
to the Galo (with an asylum for destitute children), the Ornd, the Musko
(with the harbour of Elfsnabben, from which Gustavus Adolphus embarked
for Germany in 1630), and the Uto, with valuable iron-mines. The entire
district is dotted with the summer-villas of the Stockholmers.

45. From Kolback and Valskog to Flen, Nykoping,
and Oxelosund.

138 Kil. (86 Engl. M.). Railway in 7-9 hrs. (fares from Kolback to
Oxelosund 10 kr. 60, 5 kr. 30 6.; from Valskog to Oxelosund 11 kr. 5,
5 kr. 55 6.).

Kolback, seep. 315. The train follows the course of the Stroms-
holms Canal (p. 365) to Strbmsholm (p. 366) , at its mouth , and
then crosses the Borgasund. It next skirts the shore of the main-
land, crosses the Qvicksund, and reaches the station of that name.
18 Kil. Rekarne, the junction for the railway coming from Vals-
kog (p. 315) via Kungsbr (at the mouth of the Arbogaa, see p. 315)
and Oster-Tibble. — The figures prefixed to the following stations
indicate their distance from Valskog.

29 Kil. (18 M.) Thorshalla, situated on the Thorshallaa or
Eskilstunaa, near its mouth in Lake Malaren. The town was once
an important place, but has been entirely supplanted by Eskils-
tuna since the construction of the locks (1856-60) by which the
falls of the Eskilstunaa are avoided.

Baedekek's Norway and Sweden. 4thJ2dit. 23

354 Route 45. NYKOPING.

35 Kil. (22 M.) Eskilstuna (Stadskallaren ; Central Hotel;
Hotel Phoenix; Svensson; excellent river- baths), a town with
9300 inhab., charmingly situated on the EsTcilstunaa, derives its
name from Eskil, an Englishman, Archbishop of Lund, and one of
the first preachers of Christianity in Sodermanland. The tra-
dition that he was stoned by the heathen populace at Strengn'as
and buried here is unfounded. He resigned his prelacy a few
years before his death and retired to the Bernardine monastery of
Clairvaux in France, where he died in 1181. A Bernardine mon-
astery founded here in the 12th cent, was suppressed in 1527 by
Gustavus Vasa, who erected on its site a royal palace, which was
burned down in 1680. Fragments of the building are still to be
seen in the churchyard. In 1654 the first metal-works were estab-
lished here by a Livonian from Riga, and in 1659 municipal privi-
leges were conferred on the town. Since that period, and parti-
cularly since the completion of the canal to Thorshalla in 1856, Es-
kilstuna has become a famous manufacturing place, the 'Swedish
Sheffield', the staple commodities being iron and steel wares. The
town consists of the Gamla Stad on the E. bank, the Nya Stad on
the W. bank , the adjoining Fristad, and the Karl Gustafs Stad.
The most important establishments are the Karl Gustafs Stad
Gevdrsfaktori, or gun-manufactory , belonging to government, on
an island in the river, founded in 1814; MunktelVs Foundry and
Engine Works , opposite ; the Tunafors Rolling and Polishing
Works, belonging to a company, to the S. of the town ; and the
Stalfors Cutlery Works, which produce excellent goods at moderate
prices. Damascened wares form a specialty of the famous steel-
works in the Fristad. Eskilstuna possesses a Technical School,
where a collection of the manufactures of the place is exhibited.
— The favourite places of recreation in the neighbourhood are the
Djurgard , Sommarro to the W. of the Fristad , and Snopptorp's
Helsobrunn to the S.

From Eskilstuna a Steamboat plies 5 times weekly to Stockholm,
via Thorshalla and Strengnas (p. 351). — About 7 Engl. M. to the N.E.
of Eskilstuna is the church of Jader , the (burial-place of Axel Oxen-
stjerna (d. 1654), containing a few memorials of the Thirty Years' War.
Adjacent is the large estate of Fiholm, on Lake Malaren.

40 Kil. (25 M.) Skogstorp; 45 Kil. Hallsta ; 61 Kil. Hellefors-
nas ; 68 Kil. Mellosa.

65 Kil. (40i/2 M.) Flen, the junction of the Vestra Stambana
(p. 297; for Stockholm).

76 Kil. (47 M.) Vadsbro ; 96 Kil. Bettna ; 103 Kil. Vrena;
Hi Kil. Stigtomta ; 116 Kil. Larslund, all in the district of So-
dermanland (p. 297), with its numerous lakes.

125 Kil. (78 M.) Nykoping (Stora Hotel; Radhuskallaren), a
town with 5500 inhab., at the mouth of the Nykopingsa, which
drains several lakes and here falls into the Stadsfjdrden, a bay of
the Baltic. Nykoping is the capital of Sodermanlandslan, and is

ROSERSBERG. 46. Route. 355

frequently mentioned in the early history of the country. The
water of the river, which forms a fall here, is utilised as the motive
power of the Nykopings Mekaniska Verkstad, a large machine
factory. — Steamers of the Stockholm and Norrkoping line run
several times weekly to Nykoping.

133 Kil. (82i/2 M.) Stjemholm. 138 Kil. (86 M.) Oxelosund, with
a good harbour. The steamer plying on the Gota Canal, between
Gothenburg , Jonkoping , and Stockholm , calls here (see p. 306).

46. From Stockholm to Upsala.

A visit to Upsala is best made as an excursion from Stockholm,
the traveller either going there and back by train, ..or going by steamer
and returning by rail. Travellers on their way to Ostersund and Thrond-
hjem (R. 50) may visit Upsala in passing. The excursions from Upsala
to Gene, Falun, etc., are not interesting enough to be recommended to
the ordinary tourist.

a. By Railway.

66 Kil. (41 Engl. M.). Railway in li/s-S'/a brs. (express fares 5 kr.
65 6., 4 kr. ; ordinary, 4 kr. 65, 3 kr. 50, 2 kr. 35 o; return-tickets, avail-
able for two days, 6 kr. 95, 5 kr. 20, 3 kr. 50 6.).

The train starts from the Central Station (p. 316), and passes
Karlberg (p. 346) on the left and Rorstrand on the right. The
line to Vartan (p. 345) diverges to the right, and the line to
Vesteras to the left (R. 43). To the right is the church of Solna.
• — 7 Kil. Jerfoa, from which a road leads to (20 min.) lllriksdal
(p. 347). Farther on we observe Edsberg on the right, at the N.
end of the Edsvik , and Sollentunaholm on the Norrvik (with the
church of Sollentuna to the left). 19 Kil. Botebro; 24 Kil. Vasby.

32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.) Bosersberg, the station for the *Chateau
of Rosbrsberg (Bosersbergs Slott), situated 1 1/2 Engl. M. to theW.
on a bay of Lake Malaren , and not visible from the train. The
place derives its name from the family of Tre Boser, to which it
once belonged It next came into the possession of tho famous
Oxenstjerna, and afterwards became the property of the crown.
It was a favourite residence of Charles XIII. and of his adopted
son Bernadotte. The picture-gallery contains busts of these mon-
archs and others in marble, by Bystrom, Etruscan vases, etc.
The library consists of 7000 vols., a catalogue of which, written
by Charles XIII. himself, is shown. His bedroom is also preserved
in its original condition. A visit to Rosersberg by the small
Sigtuna steamer (see p. 356) forms a pleasant excursion from
Stockholm. (The Upsala steamer does not touch here.)

From (37 Kil.) Marsta a visit may be paid to (8 Kil.) Sigtuna
(p. 357); the road turns to the left after 3 Kil. and finally crosses
the Qarmvik. 48 Kil. Knifsta; 59 Kil. Bergsbrunna. "We now obtain
a fine view of the plain of Upsala (Upsala-Slatten), the cradle of
Swedish culture, with the churches of Danmark and Vaksala.

About IV2 Engl. 31. to the E. of Bergsbrunna lies the village of
Danmark, whence we may walk in l/t hr. to Hammavby, with the country-

23*

356 Route 46. MORA STONES. From Stockholm

house of lAnnoeus , in which he died in 1778. The house has recently
been restored and contains a small memorial museum. — Near Hammarby
are the celebrated Mora Stones (Morastenar). The ten stones now remaining
are enclosed in a stone building erected in 1770, but probably few of them
are genuine. It was here that the newly elected kings swore to observe
the laws of the country, and they thereupon received an oath of alleg-
iance from the lagman, or judges, in the name of the people, who prayed
that God might grant the king a long life, taking care to add the reser-
vation, 'if he be a good king'. The original Mora Stones, which had all
disappeared by the time of Gustavus Vasa, consisted of a large stone,
resting on several smaller ones, adjoining which were placed the hylln-
mg&stenar, or 'homage-stones1, on which the new king mounted to show
himself to the people. By the homage-stone, on the election of each new
sovereign, was placed a smaller stone bearing his name and the date. It
is of these last alone that the Mora Stones now consist.

The train crosses the Safjaa, an affluent of the Fyrisa,
approaches the latter stream at Ultuna, traverses Kungsangen ('the
king's meadow') , formerly the Fyrisvall , and soon enters the
handsome station of (66 Kil.) Upsala (p. 358).

b. By Steamboat.

90 Kil. (56 Engl. M.). Steamboat daily in 5 hrs., starting from Riddar-
liolmen (PI. D, 5) at 9 a.m. (fare 2 kr.). Another boat, leaving the
Munkbvohamn (PI. D, 5) about noon, plies to Sigluna (3 hrs.; l'/a kr.)
and Orsundsbro.

The scenery is somewhat monotonous , and the steamer is a
slow conveyance , which stops at nineteen intermediate stations ;
but those who have ample time will prefer it to the train, at least
for the journey to Upsala. The first station is Nockeby , where a
wooden bridge connects the mainland with the Kerso, from which
another bridge crosses to Drottningholm (p. 348). The broad ex-
panse of Lake Malaren is quitted here , and the steamer threads
its way between the islands and the mainland, crossing several
fjardar (bays). On the right lies the pleasant estate of Hesselby,
beyond it that of Riddarsvik (station), and to the left is the island
of Svartsjo (p. 349). Farther on we pass , on the right, the cha-
teau of Gorvdln, built by Duke John, brother of Charles X. , and
on the left that of Lennartsnas, once the property of Lennart Tor-
stenson(d. 1651), one of the most distinguished generals of Gusta-
vus Adolphus in the Thirty Years' War. We now reach the narrow
strait of Staket (said to be a word of Finnish origin), an island in
which, called Almare-Staket, contains a few fragments of the castle
called St. Erik's Borg. An ancient stronghold which stood here was
destroyed by the Esthonians in 1187, and a castle was afterwards
erected on the same site by Nikolaus Ragvaldi, Archbishop of Up-
sala. At a later period it was occupied by Archbishop Gustaf
Trolle , a powerful opponent of the administrator Sten Sture the
Younger, who took the castle and destroyed it in 1517. This
strait forms the entrance to a long and narrow arm of the lake
called Skarfven. We next pass the estate of Runsa on the right.
Beyond it, in a bay on the right, lies the chateau of Rosersberg
(p. 355) , which is called at by the Sigtuna steamer, but is not

to Vpsala. SKOKLOSTER. 46. Route. 357

visible from the Upsala boat. Farther on, we observe to the right
the recently restored chateau of Steninge, once the property of
Marshal Fersen , who was murdered by the populace at Stockholm
in 1812. The park contains a monument to his memory. We now
enter the Sigtuna-Fjard, in which, to the right, lies —

Sigtuna (no hotel), once one of the largest and handsomest
towns in Sweden, but now containing 555 inhab. only. It was
founded at the beginning of the 11th cent, by King Olaf Erikson,
and was destroyed by the Esthonians in 1187. They are said to
have carried off the two massive silver doors of the choir of one
of the churches , which now adorn a church in Novgorod. All
that remains of the ancient buildings of Sigtuna consists of the
scanty ruins of the churches of St. Peter, St. Lawrence, St. Olaf,
and St. Nicholas. The present church once belonged to a Do-
minican monastery. The place is prettily situated, and commands
a fine view of the lake. Route to Marsta, 11 Kil., see p. 355.

To the left we next observe the Signildsberg, the site of a still
more ancient town of Sigtuna (For-Sigtuna or Fom-Sigtuna) , the
scene of the saga of Hagbart and Signe. On the same bank lies
Hatunaholm , with the church of Hatuna , where dukes Eric and
Valdemar took their brother King Birger prisoner in 1306 and
compelled him to grant them extensive privileges. The following
year Birger revenged himself by inviting them to Nykoping, where
he caused them to be thrown into prison and starved to death , an
act of barbarity which cost him his throne. The three brothers
are interred in the choir of the Storkyrka at Stockholm. Beyond
Erikssund, Finstaholm (stations), and the church of Haggeby, the
arm of the lake expands into the Skofjdrd , on the left side of
which rises the —

* Skokloster (properly Skogkloster, 'forest monastery'; station),
an imposing chateau , on the site of a monastery which originally
belonged to the Dominicans and afterwards to Cistercian nuns.
The convent was suppressed by Gustavus Vasa, and was presented
by Gustavus Adolphus to Marshal Herman Wrangel , whose son
Charles Gustavus Wrangel erected the present chateau in the style
of that of Aschaffenburg in Germany and filled it with treasures
captured during the Thirty Years' War. After his death it passed
into the possession of Count Brahe, his son-in-law, and still be-
longs to the same family. The building is square in form , each
side being 140ft. long, and encloses a court in the interior. At
each corner rises a handsome tower roofed with copper.

A great part of the -Interior is still in an unfinished condition.
The handsome Vestibule is borne by eight Ionic columns of white marble,
which were presented by Queen Christina. The Kungssal has a richly
decorated stucco ceiling. The staircases and vestibules are embellished
with numerous portraits (including those of several of Marshall Wrangel's
Scottish auxiliaries), pictures by Ehrenstrahl and others, and rich tapestry.
The very valuable Collections preserved here comprise a Library contain-
ing 30,000 vols, and numerous MS.S. , and an Armoury with l'JOO guns

358 Route 47. UPSALA.

of various kinds, a number of swords, daggers, and bows, the sword of
Ziska, the famous Hussite leader, the sword used by the executioner at
the 'Blood-bath of Linkoping' (p. 308), and the shield of Emp. Charles
V., said to have been executed by Benvenuto Cellini, and captured at
Prague in 1648.

Near the chateau is the handsome Gothic *Skokyrka , which
originally belonged to the monastery. It contains the burial-
chapel of Marshal Herman Wrangel and an equestrian statue of
his son , a handsome pulpit , and an interesting altar-piece. The
font and a figure of the penitent Magdalene were brought from
the monastery of Oliva near Dantsic. Here, too, is buried Hedvig
Charlotta Nordenflycht , 'the Swedish Sappho', who on account of
a disappointment in love threw herself into a river (1763). — The
overseer of the estate provides visitors with board and lodging if
required. The traveller may now row in about an hour to Alsike,
and drive thence to the (7 Kil.) Knifsta railway-station (p. 355).

Beyond Skokloster the steamer enters the Fjard Ekoln. On
the right are the church of Alsike and the estate of Krusenberg
(station) ; on the left the churches of Aker , Dalby , and Nas. To
the right , farther on, is Kungshamn , where the kings of Upsala
are said once to have kept their fleet. At stat. Flotsund the
steamer enters the muddy Fyrisa. To the right stretches the fertile
plain of Upsala, with the churches of Danmark, Vaksala , and
Gamla Upsala. On the left is the agricultural school (Landbruks-
Institutet) of Ultuna. The river expands considerably at two places,
beyond which Upsala comes into view and is soon reached.

47. Upsala.

Railway Station on the E. side of the town (PI. D, E, 3, 4). Steam-
boats stop opposite the Slrdmparlerre (PI, D, 4, 5), on the S. side.

Hotels. Hotel Svea, Jernvags-Hotel (PI. 10; D, 4), and Gefle, all
in Kungs-Gatan, near the railway-station. Hotel St. Erik, Bangards-Gatan
(PI. D, 4). — -Stads-Hotellet, Drottning - Gatan (PI. C, 4J, with good
restaurant and cafe.

Restaurants. ' -Upsala Gille, Vestra Agatan 6; Hotel Phoenix, also in
Vestra Agatan; "Vauxhall (PI. D, 3; known as Rullan), at the station, in
summer only. Among the cafes may be mentioned that of the ' Striimpar-
terre (PI. D, 4, 5), called by the students 'Flustre' or 'Stora Forderfvet',
at the steamboat-pier, with a pleasant garden where a band plays in the
evening.

Baths. Hydropathic Establishment, by the Slotlskallan , below the
Slott. River and Swimming Baths by the Dombro and beyond the Svart-
backstull (on the road to Gamla Upsala).

Reading Room, with foreign newspapers, at the Upsala Gille, Ved-
Torget; admission 50 6., or for a month i kr.

Bookseller. Akademiska Bokhandeln , Dombro ; Zundeqvistska Bok-
handeln, Drottning-Gatan and Ostra Agatan. Fine series of views of
Upsala and Sigtuna by Billmark, 24 kr.; Upsala i Taflor, twelve views
by Nay, 6 kr.

Cabs (Akare) at the railway - station and the steamboat-pier. Drive
in the town for 1 pers. 50, for 2 pers. 75 ii. ; to Gamla Upsala 2 kr., with
two horses, 3-4 pers., 4 kr. ; to Eklundshof, 1-2 persons, 50 ii. ; to Ultuna
11/2-2 kr.

Cathedral. UPSALA. 41. Route. 359

Promenades. Odinslund , between the cathedral and the university;
Slotts-Park ; also 'Parken' on the Pollacksbacke on the S. side of the town,
especially during the drill of the 'Indelta Armee'. Shady walks on the
W. side of the town. — Views from the Slolt and from the„steps of the
University ; finest view of the Cathedral from the Ostra Agata, near a
mill-weir in the Fyrisa.

University Collections. Botanic Garden, always open.

Coins and Northern Antiquities, St. Lars-Gatan 2; apply to the 'aman-
uensis'.

Library, open during the vacation (June 1-Sept. 15j on Tuesdays and
Fridays, 11-1 o'clock, on other days on application to the librarian or to
an 'amanuensis' ; during term-time it is open every week-day from 10.30
to 1.30.

Linnceus''s Garden ('Linneanska Tradgarden') , Svartbacks-Gatan 27,
may conveniently be visited on the way to Gamla Upsala.

Mineralogical Collections in the Chemical Laboratory (Nya Kemisla
Bygnaden), Tuesdays and Fridays, 12-1.

Physical Cabinet, in the same building, Wed. and Sat., 12-1.

Picture Gallery ('Museet for Bildande Konst'), in the Gustavianum,
to the W. of the cathedral, Sat. 1-2.

Zoological Museum, in the Gustavianum, open on week-days. The
same building contains Marklin's Natural History Museum (apply to the
'konservator',).

Upsala ('the lofty halls'), the most famous university-town in
Sweden, and. the residence of the archbishop, the 'landshofding', and
other dignitaries, with21,200inhab., lies on both banks of the Fyrisa,
which is crossed by five bridges. The modern part of the town (Staden)
lies on the flat E. bank, while the older quarters (Fjerdingen) are
on the somewhat abrupt "W. bank. The extension of the town in-
dicated on the Plan has as yet been scarcely begun. It was formerly
called Ostra- Aros, and at theperiod when the kings of Sweden resided
at Gamla Upsala it formed their commercial town and harbour. In
1276 the headquarters of the archiepiscopal see, which had been
founded a century earlier, were transferred from Gamla Upsala
to the present town, while the kings selected Stockholm as their
future residence. Like Throndhjem in Norway, Upsala may be re-
garded as the historical centre of the kingdom to which it belongs.
Anciently it also formed the great stronghold of paganism , me-
morials of which abound in the tombs and monuments of the
neighbourhood ; and it was here that the apostles of Christianity
encountered the most determined opposition. Qeijer, in one of
his most beautiful poems , 'Den Sista Skalden' (the last of the
hards), represents the venerable bard on his return home extolling
the magnificence of the temple of Upsala, beneath the lofty arches
of which Svithiod's mighty gods were enthroned, and he after-
wards depicts the burning of the sanctuary and the baptism of the
terrified inhabitants in the Fyrisa. It is in these historical and
mythical associations that the interest attaching to Upsala to a
great extent consists. The chief modern centre of attraction is
the university, which was founded in 1477.

The *Cathedral (PI. C, 3) is picturesquely situated on a height
(mons domini) rising above the Fyrisa. The exterior, with its two
towers , which were intended to be 388 ft. in height , has been

360 Route 47. UPSALA. Cathedral.

disfigured by restorations , but the interior , though plain, is very
impressive. The strictly Gothic style of the architecture recalls
that of some of the French cathedrals , and is accounted for by the
fact that the architect was Etienne At Bonneuil, a Frenchman. The
edifice was begun in 1289 and completed in 1435, but was partly
destroyed by fire in 1702. It consists of a nave with aisles, a
transept, and a choir , the last forming a prolongation of the nave,
while the retro-choir is a continuation of the aisles. The handsome
vaulting is borne by 24 pillars. The windows are lofty and narrow.
Between the flying buttresses, which are enclosed within the walls
of the building , are a series of chapels on each side , forming a
third and fourth aisle respectively. These chapels are also carried
round the choir, where they contain the most celebrated monu-
ments in the cathedral. In the interior the church is 359 ft. long,
103-136 ft. broad, and 90 ft. high. The roof rises to a farther
height of 23 ft., and the towers, as far as the lanterns added by
Harleman, are 178 ft. high. About 1 million kr. have been sub-
scribed by government, the town of Upsala, and private persons for
the restoration of the building (now in progress). The 'Klockare',
who lives in the adjacent 'Domtrapphus', understands a little
German (fee ifa-i kr.).

Among the objects of interest in the interior are the pulpit, designed
by Tessin, the large organ, the altar (by Burchard Precht of Rome, 1731),
and the candelabra (ljuskronor), one of which, in silver, weighs 52'/2 lbs.
The capitals of the pillars in the choir are also worthy of attention.
To the right of the altar is the silver-gilt sarcophagus of King Erik IX., the
patron saint of Sweden, who was killed here in 1160 by the Danes. At the back
of the altar is the tomb of Jacob Ulfson (1421-1521), Archbishop of Upsala. The
chief boast of the cathedral, however, is the "Burial Chapel of Quslavus
Vasa ('Gustavianska Koret' ; d. 1560), at the back of the choir. The walls
of the chapel are embellished with two large and five small frescoes by
Sandberg, representing scenes from the life of the great monarch, and are
inscribed with the words of his last address to the Estates in 1560. In
the centre of the chapel is placed his recumbent figure, between those of
Catherine of Lauenburg and Margaretha Lejonhufvud, his first two wives,
on a pedestal ('castrum doloris1) with obelisks at the corners. His third
wife, Karin Stenbock, who survived him upwards of sixty years, is also
interred in this chapel. The handsome stained-glass windows are by Way.
The Chapel of Katarina Jagellonica contains the sumptuous monument
in marble to John III. (d. 1592), which was executed in Italy, but
wrecked on the voyage from Leghorn to Sweden, and taken to Dantsic,
where it remained till 1785. The other chapels around the choir belong
to the illustrious families of Slure, Brahe, Horn, Oxenstjema, Lejonhufvud,
and De Geer. The monument of Linnaeus is in the Bomir Chapel, which
adjoins the N. aisle, while the remains of the great naturalist repose under
the organ-loft. It consists of a pyramid of porphyry, with a bronze
medallion of Ianne by Sergei, and bears the inscription : 'Cai'olo a Linni
Botanicorum Principi Amici et Discipiili, 1798\ — The Sacristy contains
many curiosities and precious relics, including ecclesiastical vessels in
gold and silver, vestments, crowns, sceptres, the clothes of the Sture who
were put to death by Eric XIV. (in 1568), the derisive gift of King Al-
bert of Mecklenburg to Queen Margaret (a stone for sharpening her
needles), and her retort in the shape of a banner formed out of her own
under-garments.

The traveller should walk round the outside of the church and

University. UPSALA. 47. Route. 361

inspect the Choir and the imposing lateral *Portals. To the N. of
the cathedral is the Eriks Kalla (PI. 25), or Spring of St. Eric,
which is said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was
killed.

To the W. of the cathedral rises the large new building of the
University (PI. 31 ; D, 3, 4), erected in 1877-86. The University,
founded by Sten Sture in 1477 and richly endowed by Gustavus
Adolphus, is now attended by about 1800 students. There are
over 50 professors, and as many lecturers and tutors.

On entering the university each student is bound to attach himself
to one of the thirteen 'nations', each of which, somewhat like the col-
leges of Oxford and Cambridge , possesses its own buildings , presided
over by curators, inspectors, and a committee of management. The
members of each nation are divided into seniores, juniores, and re-
centiores. On the choice of a 'nation' depends to a great extent the
character of the student's education and his future career, and each
retains his rights of membership for life. Duelling, to which severe
penalties were attached by a law of 1682, has long been unknown in
Sweden. One of the chief 'national' recreations is quartett-singing.

To the S. of the cathedral is the Trefaldighets- Kyrka (PI. 30;
B, C, 4), or Bondkyrka ('church of the Trinity', or 'of the peasants'),
an older edifice than the cathedral , but now uninteresting. It
belongs to the rural part of the parish of Upsala. Farther on is
the Odins Lund (PI. 21 ; B, 4), a promenade adorned with an
obelisk to the memory of Gustavus Adolphus. We next reach the
Carolina Rediviva (PI. 2; B, 4 ; adm., see p. 359), a handsome
building (with fine view from the flight of steps) containing the
valuable library of the university (230,000 vols, and 7000 MSS.),
the chief treasure of which is the famous * Codex Argenteus, a trans-
lation of the four Gospels into Moeso-Gothic by Bishop Ulphilas,
dating from about the second half of the 4th century, written on
187 leaves of parchment in gold and silver letters on a reddish
ground. This precious MS., which was captured in the Thirty Years'
War, was presented by Queen Christina to Vossius, her librarian,
and was purchased from him for 400 crowns by De la Gardie, the
chancellor of the university. It is to this work of Ulphilas that we
are almost exclusively indebted for our knowledge of the ancient
Gothic language, which stands nearly in the same relation to the
Germanic languages as Sanscrit to the whole Aryan family.

In front of the library is the Carolina Park (PI. B, 4), with a
Monument ofCharlesXIV. John (Bern adotte, d. 1844), byFogelberg,
and numerous Bunic stones. To the S.W. of the park rises the
handsome Chemical Laboratory (PI. B, 4), with the Physical Cabinet
(adm., see p. 359).

A little farther on in the same direction is the Botanic Garden
('botaniska tradgarden ; PI. A, 5), which is always open to the
public. The botanical lecture-room contains a marble Statue of Lin-
naus by Bystrom. The celebrated botanist resided at iNo. 27 Svart-
b'acks-Gatan (PI. 11; C, 3), and in summer at Hammarby (p. 355).

362 Route 47. UPSALA. Slott.

To the E. of the botanic garden rises the large and unpleasing
Slott (PI. 0, 4), a castle founded by Gustavus Vasa in 1548, but
never completed. In front of it is a bust of the founder by
Fogelberg. In this castle Eric XIV. caused the ill-fated Sture
to be murdered, and it was here that Queen Christina abdicated.
The N. tower and the Styrbiskop (built to 'overawe the bishops')
are now in ruins. Fine * View from the castle, to the N. of which
GamlaUpsala is visible. — A little farther on are the new Hospital
(Sjukhus) and the grounds of the Stromparterre. Farther to the 8.
is the Polacksbacke, another good point of view (comp.Pl. C, D, 5).

The principal university-buildings not yet mentioned are the
Guslrwianum ('Gustavianska Akademien'; PI. 7; B, 3), with zoo-
logical and other collections ; the Observatory ('Astronomiska Ob-
servatoriet' ; PI. A, 3) ; the Regnelleanum (PI. 23 ; C, 4), Tradglrds-
Gatan 18; the Anatomy Building ('Anatomi Bygnaden' ; PI. 1 ; D, 4),
Vestra Agatan 26 ; the Collection of Coins and Northern Antiqui-
ties ('Myntsamling och Nordiska Fornsaker'), St. Lars-Gatan 2.

The Cemetery (PI. A, 4) situated to the W. of the library,
deserves a visit. Among the numerous monuments of distinguished
men is that of Geijer (d. 1847), the historian and poet. The mon-
uments of the different 'nations' of the students should also be
noticed (see p. 361).

The most interesting spot near Upsala is "Gamla Upsala, about 3'/_>
Engl. M. to the N.E., the first station on the railway to Gefle (see below).
On foot or by carriage (see p. 358) we may reach it by following the
highroad to Gefle for '/a M. and then taking the road to the right, run-
ning parallel with the railway. Gamla Upsala was the seat of the early
pagan kings of Sweden. The site of its famous temple is said to be marked
by the church of the present village. Adjacent are the three Kungshogarne,
or Tumuli of the Kings, named after the Scandinavian gods, Thor, Odin,
and Freyr, each about 58 ft. high and 225 ft. in diameter. The hill farthest
to the E. (the Odin Hill) was opened in 1846-47, and beneath the super-
incumbent sand, embedded in layers of gravel, was found an urn, 7 in.
high and 9 in. in diameter, containing calcined bones and the objects now
preserved in the Museum at Stockholm (ground-floor, Room III., p. 335).
The urn was left where it was found. The Freyr hill was opened in 1874
and found to be constructed on a similar plan. Near these hills is the
Tingshiig ('assize hill'), 32 ft. in height, from which the kings down to Gus-
tavus Vasa used to address their subjects.

From Upsala to Noeetelje, 81 Kil. (50'/2 Engl. 31.), railway in 4 hrs.
(fares 5 kr. 70, 3 kr. 25 o.). — The intermediate stations are of no im-
portance: 21 Kil. Lenna; 41 Kil. Knutby. At (50 Kil.) Rimbo is the
junction with the direct line to Stockholm, now in progress. — Norr-
telje (tStnds-Holel), a busv little trading town with 2300 inhab. lies in a
pretty district at the W. end of the bay of Telgevik, on the Baltic. In
summer it is a favourite watering-place.

48. From Upsala to Gefle.

114 Kil. (71 Engl. M.). Railway in 4-5 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 85, 4 kr. 60 o.).

The scenery is uninteresting, but a visit may be paid on the
way to the waterfall of the Dai-Elf at Elfkarleby and to the iron-
mines of Dannemora . — The train at first follows the course of the
Fyrisa.

1 JnatoTnumnb D.4.

2 CaroUiLwReclifrm B.4.

3 OmsistoruLOL ,C3.
^■Sambrow .C.3.
S Erkebtslzapskiisct B.4.
6Cafet C.3.
' OmtaHaman, B.3.
8 JslaBflslrron D.4.
8 Jernbraiv .C.3.

Jfl Jerny&gshatrZ B.4.
11 Iiamh ford, botamslca. C. 3.

IrfiAguT-d as Gamin

Nations lvu sen: J ZZPosOiuset D.4.

.B.3. 23 JieffmHeaTnuw C.4.

C.2. ! 24 SamnaiTum. . . C.4.

B.3. 25 SPErihsk/Wob C.3.

26 Stytteanwn, C. 4.

27 SlotUMOlan. C.4.

28 SladsTms C. 4.

29 TclegraferL C.S.

30 Trefald.kprka. B.C. 4.
ZlByaUmrwsitetsluiset B.S.4.

12 Goteborgs

13 Ostgdta,

14 Siri&Umds

15 Siockfiolms

16 Vplimds

17 Vcstgota.
XSpestntoIluhL

ia2ied..flottspark
ZONyftron. .
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ORBYHUS. 48. Route. 363

4Kil. Oamla Upsala, with the Kungshogarne to the left; 12 Kil.
Stor- Vreta. Beyond (20 Kil.) Vattholma is the interesting chateau
of Salsta, erected by_Tessin. 38 Kil. Vendel.

43 Kil. (27 M.) Orbyhus. The chateau , now the property of
Count de Geer, belonged for nearly two centuries to the celebrated
Vasa family and was fortified by Gustavus Vasa. It was here that
his unfortunate and half-insane son Eric XIV. was poisoned by
order of his brother John III. on 25th Feb., 1577.

Fkom Orbyhus to Dannemoka, 9 Kil., by a branch-line in 25 min.
(fare 70 or 45 o.). The famous "Mines of Dannemora, which yield the
best iron in Sweden, occupy an area of about 2 Engl. M. in length by
30-380 yds. in width. They lie at a depth of 27 ft. below the Grufsjo,
against the encroachment of which they are protected by means of a
massive wall of granite, 37 ft. high at places. The deepest shafts are the
Ungkarlsgrufvan and the Jungfrugrufvan, both about 500 ft. in depth.

One of the largest of these mines is that of Ostei-by, l3/t Engl. M.
to the E. , the property of Baron Tamm , with a handsome mansion , a
park, a steam-hammer and other works, and a church, together forming
quite a little town. — The productive mines of Leufsta or Lofsla are
about 20 Engl. M. to the N. of Dannemora.

Beyond Uannemora the train runs on to (43 Kil.) Sarg on the Baltic
in 2 hrs. more.

48 Kil. (30 M.) Tobo , with extensive iron-works ; 61 Kil.
Tierp, on the Tierpsa , in a fertile district. Numerous forges in
every direction. 69 Kil. Orrskog, whence a branch-line runs to
Soderfors on the Hal-Elf, an anchor-manufactory, driven by the
falls of the river , and also belonging to Baron Tamm. It is a
prettily situated place, forming a little world of its own. 81 Kil.
Martna.

88 Kil. (54 M.J Elfkarleo. The train crosses the Dai-Elf here
by means of a bridge of six arches , 408 ft. in length, and a via-
duct 437 ft. long. Visitors to the waterfall of Elfkarleby , about
2 Engl. M. lower down the river, alight here. The fall is 49 ft.
high and 250 ft. in width, and the volume of water is very large ;
but, like the principal waterfalls at Trollhattan, it is divided into
two parts by an island in the middle of the stream , whereby its
effect is diminished. The environs of the fall are tame and
uninteresting. Below it is the /Stone Bridge of Charles XIII. (Inn),
which affords a good survey of the scene. From this point the
traveller is recommended to drive to (98 Kil.) Skutskar, the next
railway-station, a place with 1400 inhab. , situated on the Baltic,
and possessing extensive steam-saw-mills. Steamboats to Gefle,
Elfkarleby, etc. ; another steamboat also plies on the Dai-Elf daily
from Husby-Kungsgard, near Elfkarleby, to Avesta, near Krylbo
(p. 370).

Immediately beyond Skutskar is (99 Kil.) Hamas.

114 Kil. (71 M.) Gefle (Stadshuset; Central- Hotellet), a rapidly-
increasing town, with 21,000 inhab., is an important commer-
cial and manufacturing place, and the chief outlet for the ex-
port of the timber and metal yielded by the provinces of Oestrik-

364 Route 40. MELLERUD.

land, Helsingland, and Dalarne. It owes its substantial modem
appearance to the great fire of 1869, which destroyed the whole
of the quarter on the N. bank of the Geflea. Large Shipbuilding
Wharfs. A walk may be taken in the Stadstradgard and on the
bank of the Geflea. — Steamboats ply frequently between Gefle
and the principal ports on the Gulf of Bothnia ; to Stockholm
daily. A steam-launch plies daily between Gefle and the fishing
village of Bbnan, to the N.E. of the town.

From Gefle to Ockelbo (p. 370) 38 Kil. Railway in f/2 hr. through
wood. No important stations.

From Gefle to Falun, 92 Kil. (57 Engl. M.), railway in 2'2/3
hrs. (fares 4 kr. 60, 2 kr. 75 0.). — The country traversed is very
uninteresting. Stations: Valbo ; Margretehill ; Sandviken, on the
Storsjo, with extensive Bessemer steel-works ; Kungsgarden. At
(38 Kil.) Storvik the line is crossed by the Sala and Krylbo rail-
way (R. 50). 55 Kil. Robertsholm; 59 Kil. Kallviken. The train
now enters the province of Dalecarlia or Dalarne. At Ryggen
it reaches its highest point (705 ft. above the sea-level). Near
(87 Kil.) Korsniis (370 ft), with large iron-works and saw-mills,
we obtain a pleasant view of the Runn-Sjo. 92 Kil. (57 M.)
Falun, see p. 366.

49. From Gothenburg to Falun.

478 Kil. (296 Engl. M.). Railway ("' Bergslagevnas Jernvagar'), exprtss-
train daily in 15 hrs. (fares 31 kr. 10, 15 kr. 55 6.) ; ordinary trains take
two days for the journey, and are therefore to be avoided. — The rail-
way, which traverses the provinces of Dalsland, Vermland, Vestmanland,
and Dalecarlia (Dalarne) and connects the rich mining district ('Bergs-
lager') of Vermland with the great S.W. port of Sweden, offers few
attractions to the tourist.

From Gothenburg to Oxnered (82 Kil., 51 Engl. M.), the junction
of the Venersborg-Uddevalla line, see p. 293. To the N. we have
a view of the Halleberg and the Hunneberg (p. 293). — The line
runs to the N., passing (97 Kil.) Frandefors, (106 Kil.) Bralanda,
and (114 Kil.) Erikstad, to —

123 Kil. (76 Engl. M.) Mellerud {Rail. Restaurant ; Hotel Melle-
rud, close by), junction of the Sunnana-Fredrikshald line (p. 281).

131 Kil. Kopmannabro, where the line crosses the Dalslands
Canal (p. 279) which at this point issues from Lake Venern. —
144 Kil. Animskog; 155 Kil. Tosse. — 164 Kil. Amal, a little
town with 2700 inhabitants. View of the lake to the right.

Passing (181 Kil.) Seffle, the train crosses a canal of the same
name, which connects the Byelfven, and through it the extensive
Glasfjord , with Lake Venern , and then threads its way among
the numerous lakes of South Vermland. — 189 Kil. Vermlandsbro ;
200 Kil. Segmon; 210 Kil. Grurns; 221 Kil. Edsvalla

232 Kil. (144 F gl. M.) Kil (p. 312), the junction of the
Nordvestra Sta,mbana(R. 42), and of a short branch -line to Frykstad.

STROMSHOLM CANAL. 49. Route. 365

248 Kil. Deje, with a saw-mill and a waterfall, on the Klar-Elf,
which the line here crosses by a handsome bridge. — 254 Kil.
Mblnbacka; 264 Kil. Molkom; 271 Kil. Lindfors; 279 Kil.
Geijersdal.

293 Kil. (182 Engl. M.) Daglosen, at the S. end of Lake Dag-
losen (415 ft.).

From Daglosen a branch-line runs in 20 rain, to (8 Kil.) Filipstad
(Stads-Hotel), also a station on the branch-line mentioned at p. 313, pleas-
antly situated at the N. end of the Daglosen. Finest view from the
neighbouring Hastaberg. Numerous iron-mines in every direction. — Rail-
way (72 Kil., in 5 hrs.) from Filipstad to Uddeholm and Edebdck on the
Klar-Elf, with extensive iron-works. The 'Uddeholms Actie-Bolag', which
possesses numerous iron-works and several estates, is one of the most im-
portant industrial companies in Sweden.

304 Kil. (I8872 Engl. M.) Herrhult, where our line is crossed
by the branch-line from Christinehamn to Persberg and Filipstad
(p. 313). — 315 Kil. Loka, 326 Kil. Grythyttehed, 334 Kil. Helle-
fors, 341 Kil. Sikfors, 352 Kil. Bredsjo, all with iron -works.
Numerous lakes are passed.

At (372 Kil.) Bergslaga Stdlldalen the Bergslagernas line crosses
the Frovi-Ludvika line mentioned at p. 314 ; and these two lines
run parallel to each other from this point to (384 Kil.) Bergslags
Horken, (392 Kil.) Bergslags Grangesberg, (399 Kil.) Klenshyttan,
and Ludvika. Between the lakes Norra Horken and Sodra Horken
the construction of the railway is an object of interest. Before
reaching Grangesberg we cross the boundary between Vestman-
land and Dalecarlia (Dalarne).

408 Kil. (253 Engl. M.) Ludvika (*/nn, not expensive), prettily
situated on Lake Vessman (500 ft.), and connected by a branch-
line (Marnas-Sandsta-Munkbo ; 18 Kil.) with Smedjebacken (Gast-
gifvaregard), on the Stromsholms Canal (see below).

The Stromsholms Canal , which together with the lakes connected by
it is about 70 Engl. M. in length, was constructed in 1777-95, and remod-
elled in 1842-59, for the purpose of connecting the great mining-districts
of Dalarne with Lake Malaren and the Baltic. This water-highway
reaches its highest level at Smedjebacken, from which it descends 325 ft.
to Lake Malaren by means of 15 locks. Steamers ply between Stockholm
and Smedjebacken almost daily, some starting from Riddarholmen (p. 323)
and others from the Kbtt-Torg. Passengers are allowed to spend the
night preceding the start and that succeeding the arrival on board. The
passage between Stockholm and Stromsholm , through Lake Malaren
(7-8 hrs. ; comp. p. 348), is somewhat monotonous, but the canal itself is
one of the most interesting in Sweden. We here describe the descent
of the canal from Smedjebacken to Stromsholm.

The steamer first traverses the pretty Norra (375 ft.) and Sodra (325 ft.)
Barken Lakes, between which are the picturesque church and parsonage of
Sbderbarke. It next enters Lake Vefungen, where the classic soil of Dalarne
(p. 368) is quitted, and then descends through three locks at Sembla. At
Fagersta (another lock) is one of the largest iron-works in Sweden, with
rolling-mills, etc., where gun-barrels are largely manufactured for the Karl
Gustafs Stad establishment at Eskilstuna (p. 352). Other important manu-
factories are situated at Uddnas (lock) and Vestanfors (lock), at which last
Bessemer steel is largely manufactured. We now enter the Stora Aspen
Lake and beyond it Lake Amdnningen (250 ft.), a large sheet of water, on
the E. bank of which the steamer touches at —

366 Route 49. FALUN.

Engelsberg, a place of some importance, as it lies on one of the rail-
ways from Stockholm to Storvik, Falun, and Gefle (p. 369}. — At Virsbo
(lock) we enter the Virsbosjo, beyond which follows a long canal-reach
to Seglingsberg (lock), with another manufactory (also a railway-station).
The steamer next traverses the lakes Ofvre and Nedre Nadden (230 ft.)
and another part of the canal, where two locks descend to —

Ramnas (railway-station, p. 316), with numerous manufactories in the
neighbourhood and a church, where the most picturesque scenery on the
canal begins. The route next leads through the Norrbystrom, and past
the extensive iron-works of Svj'ahammar (two locks), into the Ost-Surasjo
(180 ft.), which is quitted at Alsalva (lock). A little farther on is Trang-
fors (three locks); then "Skansen (Inn; two locks), the most beautiful
point on the canal , and Sorqvam (three locks). Whilst the steamer is
passing through these eight locks, by means of which it descends about
125 ft., passengers have ample time to land and inspect the picturesque
waterfalls of the Kolbacksa, near Sorqvarn, and the surrounding scenery.
Farther on , the steamer passes the waterfalls Sbrstafors (with a large
paper-mill) and Prestfors by means of a lock, beyond which it passes
under the railway at Kolback. We next descend two more locks at
Vesterqvam, and then the last of the series at —

Stromsholm (Frbken Ringholni's Hotel), where the level of Lake Mdlaren,
about 2 ft. only above the Baltic, is Teached. Stromsholm lies at the
influx of the Kolbacksa into the lake. The old castle here was built by
Gustavus Vasa (d. 1560) and presented by him to his queen Katharina
Stenbock, who spent her widowhood here and died at the castle in 1621.
Another royal residence , designed by Tessin , and still well preserved,
was erected on the castle - island by Hedvig Eleonora, the queen of
Charles X. An excellent stud of horses is kept here. — Railway from
Stromsholm to Kolback (and Stockholm), see K. 45.

417 Kil. (258 Engl. M.) Grasberg; 426 Kil. Ramen, on a lake
of the same name ; 435 Kil. Skracka.

455 Kil. Borlange (Jernvags-Hotellet), junction of a branch-
line to Krylbo (p. 370).

At (456 Kil.) Domnarfvet (Inn), a lofty bridge carries the line
over the Dai-Elf, which here forms a waterfall. The important iron-
works at Domnarfvet are said to be the largest in Sweden. The
•water-power required by the Bessemer steel-works here, belonging
to the Stora Kopparbergs Bergslag in Falun (p. 367), is brought
from the river by a tunnel 320 yds. long. There is a large saw-mill
on the bank. — 461 Kil. Ornas, at the S.W. end of Lake Runn
(355 ft.), on which a steamboat plies.

Ornas and the banks of the Runnsjo are classic soil in Swedish
history. At the S.E. end of the lake is Rankhyllan, with the barn
(kungslada) in which Gustavus Vasa when a fugitive and disguised as a
Dalkarl once thrashed corn. At Ornas he was enabled by Barbro Stigs-
dotter to elude his pursuers, to whom her husband Arendt Persson was
about to betray him. His bed and other memorials are still shown here
in the Kungskammare, from the window of which Barbro let him down
by a long towel.

478 Kil. (296 M.) Falun (Stads-Hotellet, in the market-place;
Nya Hotellet ; Falu Hotel), the capital of Dalame (Dalecarlia), with
7600 inhab., far famed for its copper-mines, lies between lakes
Varpan and Tisken, on both banks of a small stream, and in the
vicinity of the Runn-Sjo. The town has obviously grown out of a
group of separate villages, the names of which still survive. On
the E. bank of the stream are Ostanfors, Lallarfvet, Ofvra and

DALECARLIA. 49. Route. 367

Yttra Asen, Slaggen, and Holmcn; on the W. bank Presttagten,
Omnia Herrgarden, and Elsborg. The principal buildings are the
Kristina-Kyrka in the Stor-Torg, the Kopparbergs-Kyrka, -with its
green copper roof, the Radhus, the Oymnasium, and the Magasin-
hus, which contains a collection of minerals. The Villa at Lillarf-
vet and Manhem to the E. of the town are popular resorts.

Towards the S.W. the whole face of the country presents the
appearance of having been burned up by the Rostrok, or smoke
from the Rosthogar ('roasting hills') which surround the mines.
This smoke blackens all the wood exposed to its influence, and
gives metals a spotted appearance, but it is believed to be an ex-
cellent disinfectant, and to have warded off cholera and other
epidemics on several occasions. The fumes of the copper vitriol
in the mine itself have still more marked preservative properties.
In 1719 the body of a young man named Mats Israelsson, with the
sobriquet Fet-Mats, who had perished in the mines 49 years pre-
viously, was recovered, and was so well preserved that it was im-
mediately identified by an old woman to whom he had been be-
trothed. For 21 years more it was preserved in a glass-case, but
at length fell to pieces and was buried.

The Falu Grufva or Sloi'a Kopparberget (corrupted to Karberget) has
been known to history since 1347, but was probably worked at a still
earlier period. The yield was formerly much larger than at the present
day (20,000 skeppund, or about 3322 tons annually in the 17th cent., but
n0ow 4-5000 skeppund, or 664-830 tons only). At one time the mines of
Atvidaberg in Oster-Gotland (p. 309) even took precedence of those of Falun,
but they now yield about 430 tons only per annum. As in the middle
ages, therefore, the mines of Falun still claim the distinction of being the
'Treasury of Sweden' (Sveriges Skattkammare). In recent years the yield
of auriferous and argentiferous quartz has considerably increased ; in 1885
1580 oz. of gold and 16,765 oz. of silver were produced. The proprietors
are called Fjerdepartsegare, of whom in the year 1616 there were as many
as 1200. Each Fjerdepart is worth about 4000 crowns. The company is
called the Stora Kopparbergs Bergslag,

Visitors (adm. from 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m.) are provided with
miners' attire (bfoerklader) at the mining-office (grufstuga) and
with a miner (stigare) as a guide (fee 1-2 kr. ; additional fee for
gunshots fired to awaken the echoes). The descent and ascent
are accomplished by means of a lift. The ground is very wet at
places, and the usual lighting very inadequate. Even to those who
have conscientiously resolved to see all the lions of Sweden the
expedition can hardly be called a very attractive one. — The
Grufstuga contains an interesting collection of portraits , old
charters, antiquities, minerals, etc. A visit should also be paid
to the Kopparhytta, where the ore is smelted.

Excursion to Lake Siljan.

The most convenient starting-point for this excursion is Bor-
lange, which we reach by the railway mentioned at p. 366. Thence
we proceed by the 'Siljan Railway' to (37 Kil.) Insjon (in 1 1/2 hr. ;

368 Route 49. MORA.

fares, 3 kr., 1 kr. 85 6.), passing Tjerna, Lennheden, where the
line crosses the Dai-Elf, Dufnas, the steep rock of Djurmoklack,
Djuras, where the Vester and Oster Dai-Elf join, and Gagnef.

At Insjon, which lies on a little lake of the same name through
which flows the Oster Dai-Elf, we embark in one of the steamers
plying on Lake Siljan, and belonging to the 'Oster Dalarne' company
(daily, with alternating routes ; to Mora in 3J/2-5 hrs. ; fares,
4kr., 1 kr. 75 6.; return-tickets, a half more). The steamer steers
first up the Oster Dai-Elf to (1/2 hi-) Leksand (*Inn), situated on
the Ostervik, the S. bay of Lake Siljan. Here on Sunday mornings
the traveller has a good opportunity of seeing the peculiar cos-
tumes of the natives , who assemble to church by land and water
from all quarters. The Karingberg, to the N. of Leksand, commands
an extensive view.

Lake Siljan (540 ft.), called also 'Dalarne' s Oga' (the eye of
Dalecarlia),enclosedbypartly-woodedbanks of moderate height,owes
much of its interest to the inhabitants of its banks, who have preserv-
ed many of their primitive characteristics. They are generally poor,
owing to the great subdivision of the land, but they supplement their
agricultural pursuits with the manufacture of watches, bells, fur-
niture, grindstones, and with other crafts, which they carry on in
their own houses (husslojd). Many of the young men (Dalkarlar)
and young women (Dalkullor) seek employmentin other parts of the
country, and return with their earnings to settle in their native
province. In their ideas of cleanliness they are somewhat behind
the age, but there are very fair inns at all the principal places to
which travellers resort. The best time to visit Lake Siljan is in
the height of summer, when the vegetation is in perfection , and
when the younger members of the community while away the long
twilight with dances around the richly decked village may-poles.

Leaving Leksand , the steamboat reaches the principal part of
the lake in about 8/4 hr. To the left is the Bjorkberg, rising from
the middle of the peninsula of Siljansnas. To the right opens the
bay of Rattviken, at the head of which is the village of that name,
with the *Hotel Karlsvik and an old church, beautifully situated
in the 'Arcadia of Dalarne.' — On some voyages the steam-
boat steers hence directly to the N. end of the lake. The wide
lake narrows at the large island of (l3/4-2 hrs. from Rattvik or Lek-
sand) Solleron, to the W. of which , on the mainland, rises the
Gesundaberg (1125 ft.), the highest hill on the banks of the lake.

Mora (tolerable Inn , where a carriage may be obtained), a
large village with a church, pleasantly situated at the N.W. end
of Lake Siljan, with which various reminiscences of Gustavus
Vasa are associated, lies 64 Kil. from Leksand and 43 Kil. from
Rattvik. Here we spend the night, returning on the following
day by the same route. Near the bank of the lake here is the so-
called Klockgropsbacke , from which Gustavus once addressed the

SALA. 50. Route. 369

people. A little to the S.W. of Mora is Utmeland, where a mon-
ument marks the site of the cellar in which the wife of Tomt
Mats Larsson with great presence of mind concealed the fugitive
Gustavus from his Danish pursuers, covering the entrance with
a beer-vat. The room in the interior of the monument is adorned
with three pictures, by Hockert, E. Bergh, and Charles XV. The
neighbouring Christineberg commands a fine view.

On the days when the steamboat does not touch at Rattvik, it
continues its voyage beyond Mora across the Orsa-Sj'6 immediately
to the N. to the unimportant Orsa.

50. From Stockholm via Upsala to Ostersund
and Throndhjem.

854 Kil. (530 Engl. M.). Railway in 59 hrs., including two halts for
the night at Bollnas and Ostersund. From Stockholm to Storlien we travel
by the Swedish Nord-Slambana, and thence to Throndhjem by the Nor-
wegian Railway. A through-train , accomplishing the entire distance in
31'/2 hrs., runs between the middle of June and the end of September
only. Fares from Stockholm to Throndhjem 45 kr. 70, 29 kr. 70 o. ; from
Upsala to Throndhjem 41 kr. 70, 27 kr. 40 6. The journey is tiresome,
and can be recommended to tourists only as being the shortest route be-
tween Stockholm and Throndhjem, whether a visit to the Nordland (R. 29)
or Moldefjord (R. 23) is combined with it, or whether the traveller wishes to
return to Sweden after visiting the Moldefjord from Throndhjem. In any
case the traveller should not undergo more than one of the long railway
journeys between Christiania and Throndhjem (R. 26) and between Stock-
holm and Throndhjem. — Those with more time at their disposal may
proceed by steamer to Hornesand and Solleftea (p. 374) and thence by train
to Bracke (p. 371).

From Stockholm to (66 Kil.) Upsala, see pp. 355, 356. — 79 Kil.
Vange; 86 Kil. Aland; 100 Kil. Vittinge ; 107 Kil. Morgongafva;
113 Kil. Heby.

128 Kil. (79 M.) Sala (Stads-Hotellet ; Hotel Sola), a town with
6200 inhab., founded by Gustavus Adolphus in 1622, is famous
for its Silfvergrufva, the principal silver-mine in Sweden. The
yield was formerly very considerable , and the mine was styled
'Rikes skattkammare och yppersta klenod' (the treasury and chief
gem of the kingdom), but it has greatly decreased of late years (now
about 2300 lbs. only). Lead-ore and litharge are now the minerals
chiefly worked here. At the interesting Sala Hytta on the Sala.
Damm, to the N. of the town, the various processes of refining
the silver should be inspected. From Sala a railway diverges
to the S. to Tillberga and Vesteras (p. 315). — 138 Kil. Broddbo ;
150 Kil. Bosshyttan.

161 Kil. (100 M.) Krylbo (Jernvags-Hotellet, with restaurant),
where we reach the Dai-Elf, the historic frontier river of Dalarne,
is the junction for the railway to Engelsberg (p. 366), Seglings-
berg, Bamnds (p. 366), and Tillberga (p. 316). Generally a long

halt here.

About 0 Engl. M. to the W. of Krylbo is Briinnluick, where the Dale-
carlians routed the Danes ('Jutar') in 1521.

Baedeker's Snpwm and sm»^o« *»». ^Jit. 24

370 Route 50. fiOLLNAS. From Stockholm

'Brunbacks elf ar val djup, ocksa bred,

Der sankte vi 3a manga Jutar ned.

Sa kordes Danskar up Sverige.' (Old Ballad.)

From Krtlbo to Borlange, 64 Kil. (40 Engl. M.), railway in 2'/2-4 hrs.
(fares 4 kr. 50, 2 kr. 60 6.). — Stations : 4 Kil. Avesta on the Dai-Elf, with
large iron-works ; 23 Kil. Hedemora, a small town with 1500 inhab. ; 30 Kil.
Vikmanshyllan ; 37 Kil. Kullsveden, whence a branch -line diverges to
Bispberg, with iron -works. — 39 Kil. SSter (Slads- Hotellel), founded by
Gustavus Adolphus, with 5S0 inhab. ; in the neighbourhood is the pretty
Satersdal and the Bispbergs Klack, with a fine view. — 50 Kil. Gustafs;
57 Kil. Stora Tuna. Then (64 Kil.) Borlange. From Borlange to Falun,
see p. 366.

Beyond Krylbo the train crosses theDal-Elf by a bridge 660 ft.
long and traverses a productive mining district.

165 Kil. Jularbo ; 171 Kil. Fors ; 179 Kil. Morshyttan ; 185 Kil.
Ilorndal; 190 Kil. Byvalla; 202 Kil. Hcistbo ; 209 Kil. Torsaker.

219 Kil. (136 M.) Storvik ( Jernvags-Hotellet ; Wahlgren's Inn),
the junction of the Gefle and Falun railway (p. 364).

The train now traverses the district of Gestrikland, parts of
which areo well-wooded and fertile. Numerous small iron-works.
226 Kil. Ashammar; 235 Kil. Jarbo. 257 Kil. Ockelbo, with ex-
tensive iron-works, connected by rail with the mines of Vindkarn.
(From Ockelbo to Gefle, see p. 364. J The train then crosses the
Norrit. 274 Kil. Lingbo, the first station in the province of Hel-
singland; 284 Kil. Holmsveden.

300 Kil. (186 M.J Kilafors, whence a branch-line runs to
(33 Kil. J Soderhamn (p. 373) and (36 Kil.) Stugsund. — Our line
now ascends the valley of the Ljusne, through a wooded and agri-
cultural region. The river forms a chain of small lakes. Farther
on the train crosses the Voxna, a feeder of the Ljusne.

317 Kil. (1961/2 Engl. M.) Bollnas (*Jernvags-Hotellet, at the
station; Oastgifvaregard), with about 500 inhab., is the station
where several trains stop for the night. — 332 Kil. Arbra ; 337 Kil.
Valuta, on the Orsjb (405 ft.) ; 353 Kil. Karsj'6, on the Tefsjo
(405 ft.). In summer small steamers ply upon the Orsjo and
the Tefsjo. The scenery now assumes more and more of a northern
character, with deep valleys lying between lofty mountains. Beyond
(365 Kil.) Jerfsjo the line crosses the Ljusne-Elf. — 380 Kil.
(236 Engl. M.) Ljusdal (Jernvags-Hotellet), the junction of a
branch-line to (62 Kil., in 21/2 hrs.) Hudiksvall (p. 373), via Delsbo,
on Lake Dellen, Fredriksfors, and Nasviken.

The line now skirts the Vexnesjo (440 ft.) and the Letsjo (490 ft.)
to (408 Kil. or 253 Engl. M.) Hennan, at the S. end of a lake of the
same name (795 ft). 428 Kil. Bamsjo, 446 Kil. Mellansjo, also on
lakes bearing the same names. The scenery beyond this point be-
comes wild and wooded. — 464 Kil. Ostavall, the first station in
the district of Medelpad, on Lake Aldern (795 ft.), an expansion
of the Ljunga. The train runs through a wooded and hilly district.
473 Kil. Alby.

From (484 Kil. or 300 Engl. M.) Ange (Inn) a branch-line

to Throndhjern. OSTERSUND. 50. Route. 371

runs to the E. to (38 Kil.) Torpshammar and (95 Kil.) Sundsvall
(p. 373). At Torpshammar there are large iron-works. The main-
line proceeds to the N.W. and surmounts the plateau of the pro-
vince Jemtland. 515 Kil. Bracke, at the S. end of the Refsundsjo
(945 ft.), along -which the train runs, partly over embankments and
partly through cuttings. A branch-line (one train daily in &l/z hrs. ;
fares 7 kr. 65, 5 kr. 106.) runs from Bracke to (145 Kil.) Solleftea
(p. 374). The railway crosses the Indals-Elf near Ragunda by
means of the longest railway-bridge in Sweden (700 ft.). Pretty
scenery.

526 Kil. Stafre ; 539 Kil. Gallo. The name of (553 Kil.) Pil-
grimstad, at the N. end of the Refsundsjo, preserves the memory
of the mediaeval pilgrimages to the grave of St. Olaf in Thrond-
hjern (p. 219). — 571 Kil. Brunflo.

The line next reaches the large *Storsjo (960 ft. above the
sea-level), surrounded with beautiful scenery, in which the dark
pine and fir forests contrast finely with the yellow corn-fields. In the
foreground lies the island of Fros'6 ; and in the distance the dark
Oviksfjellen and the Areskutan (p. 372). In summer a steamer
plies upon the lake , touching at Brunflo, Ostersund, Trangs-
viken (see below), Morsill (p. 372), and other places.

586 Kil. (363 M.) Ostersund (Stads-Hotellet, with restaurant;
Nya Hotellet ; Gastgifvaregard), the capital of the province of Jemt-
land and the seat of the 'Landhcifding' (governor), was founded in
1786 and has grown rapidly since the opening of the railway. It
contains 4900 inhabitants. It is pleasantly situated on the E.
bank of the Storsjo, opposite the lofty island of Frbso, with
which it is connected by a bridge, 1420 ft. in length. The streets
are broad and handsome, most of the houses being built of timber.
On Froso, near the bridge, stands a Runic stone to the memory
of Ostmadur, the son of Gudfast, the first Christian missionary to
this district. The church on this island, with walls 10 ft. thick,
is one of the oldest in N. Sweden. The churchyard commands a
beautiful *View of the lake , with the snow-covered mountains
to the W.

Farther on, the line skirts the N. bank of the Storsjo and crosses
the Semsa. 597 Kil. Asjo. — At (607 Kil.) Krokom the line crosses
the Indals-Elf, after which we enter a dreary wooded and marshy
Tegion. Skirting the S. bank of the Naldsjo (995 ft.) for a short
distance we next reach —

618 Kil. (383 M.) Nalden. The train now crosses successively
the Fora, which connects the Naldsjo with the Alsensjo (970 ft.),
the Yttera, beyond (624 Kil.) Ytteran, the little Qvarna beyond
(633 Kil.) Trangsviken, and the Semlaan at Selander, near their en-
trance into the Ockesjo, beyond (644 Kil.) Mattmar. All these
rivers and lakes form with the Storsjo an extensive inland water-
system upon which, as already mentioned, steamboats ply. —

24*

372 Route 50. STORLIEN.

655 Kil. Morsill. — 665 Kil. Hjerpen, at the point where the Hjerp-
strom enters Lake Lithen (1045 ft.), whence the Areskutan (see
below) may be ascended in 5-6 hrs. (drive from the station in
'Skjuts' to the Qastgifvaregard Hjerpen, and thence past Bonaset
and Husa Bruk to the base of the cone, which is ascended on foot).

Crossing the Hjerpstrom we proceed along theo Vndersakersa. to
(G78 Kil.) Undertaker, and thence, skirting the Aresjo (1230 ft.),
to (692 Kil.) Are, with copper-mines, at the foot of the Areskutan
(4830 ft.), which is ascended hence by a steep path in 2'^ hrs.
The view of the surrounding mountain chains and the numerous
mountain lakes is very fine. Night- quarters and guides are to be
found in the neighbouring villages of Morviken, Lund-Lien, and
Viken.

700 Kil. (434 Engl. M.) Dufed, the best starting-point for a
visit to the Tannfors. The excursion takes about 5 hrs. in all, if
a skjuts has been ordered beforehand by a telegram to the station-
master. We drive in li/4 hr. to Tannsjon, on the lake of the same
name, cross the latter by boat with two rowers in lfe nr-> and then
walk (no path) to the (l^hr.) *Ta.nnfors, described as 'Sweden's
most beautiful waterfall'. The fall, which is divided into two arms
by the 'BearsJ Rock', is about 100 ft. high and 40 ft. broad.

724Kil. Ann (1750ft.), on a lake of the same name (1725ft.);
735 Kil. Enafors (1815 ft.), on the Ena-Elf. The country round is
chiefly wooded and marshy. — 748 Kil. Storlien (1940 ft. ; Railway
Restaurant, good dinners), the last station in Sweden, is a cold
and desolate spot, with almost no traces of vegetation. Carriages
arechangedhere. The Norwegian continuation of the line to Thrond-
hjem (854 Kil. or 530 Engl. M.) is described at p. 222

51. From Gefle to Sundsvall and Haparanda.
The Swedish Norrland.

Steamboat from Gefle to Sundsvall (43 sea-miles) in 27 hrs. (fares
13»/2, 11, 7 kr.), or from Stockholm, 80 M., in 40-48 hrs. (fares 15, 12, 8kr.),
usually twice weekly in summer. Steamer from Sundsvall to Haparanda
(111 sea-miles) weekly in 3 days (fares 37'/2 or 31 kr.); others to JTerno-
sand 2-3 times w0eekly in 7-8 hrs. — Railway from Gefle to Sundsvall
via Ockelbo and Ange, see pp. 370, 371, and 373.

The vast Swedish 'Norrland' is comparatively seldom visited
by travellers, the points of interest being few in number, the
distances very great, and the means of communication imperfect.
The principal places are briefly mentioned in this route. To the N.
of Ostersund the scenery will not adequately repay the traveller,
unless he purposes crossing to Norway from Lulea via Qvickjock,
or proceeding from Haparanda to Avasaxa in order to see the mid-
night sun. — Travellers from the south effect a slight saving of
time by taking a train on the great jiorthern Swedish railway from
Storvik to Throndhjem as far as Ange (p. 370), and proceeding

HERNOSAND. 51. Route. 373

thence by the branch-railway to Sundsvall (see below) , but most
travellers will prefer to take a steamboat direct from Stockholm
or from Gefle to Sundsvall. The steamboat's course is protected
by a Skargard, or belt of islands, nearly the whole way from
Stockholm to Sundsvall, and the voyage is a pleasant one in fine
weather. The first important station to the N. of Gefle is (13 M.) —

Soderhamn (Soderhamn Hotel; Hotel Frank), a seaport with
9400 inhab., prettily situated at the N. end of the Soderfjdrd, a
bay of the Gulf of Bothnia. The town, on which municipal privi-
leges were conferred by Gustavus Adolphus in 1620, has been often
burned down, and since the last fires (1860 and 1865) has been sub-
stantially rebuilt. The staple commodities are iron from the neigh-
bouring foundries and timber from the province of Helsingland.

Local steamboats ply daily to several of the neighbouring vil-
lages, including Ljusne at the mouth of the Ljusne-Elf, to the S.
Railway to Kilafors, see p. 370.

Hudiksvall (Stads-Hotellet ; Hotel Helsingland), the next steam-
boat-station, 12 M. to the N. of Soderhamn, a town with 4400
inhab. , is connected by a short branch-line with Forssa , whence
a steamboat plies to several stations on the Norra and Sodra Dellen
lakes. In the environs are several large iron-works and saw-mills.
From Hudiksvall a railway runs to (17 Kil.) Nasviken and (62 Kil.)
Ljusdal (p. 370). — The next important steamboat-station, 18 M.
to the N. of Hudiksvall, is —

Sundsvall (Stadshuset ; Hdtel Nord ; Jernvags-Hotellet), next to
Gefle the most considerable seaport and manufacturing town in the
Swedish Norrland, with 10,700inhab., situated at the mouth of the
Selangera. It was founded by Gustavus Adolphus in 1624, plun-
dered and burned down by the Russians in 1719, and afterwards
rebuilt in a more substantial style. Several extensive saw-mills
and iron-works in the neighbourhood, chiefly on the coast, with
harbours of their own. — Several local steamers ply to the vil-
lages and manufactoriesoin the vicinity.

From Sundsvall to Ange, 95 Kil. (59 Engl. M.), railway in 4 hrs.
(fares 5 kr., 3 kr. 35 6.). The first station is Valtjom, whence a small
branch-line diverges to the iron-works and saw-mills of Malfors, on the
Ljunga-Elf. Then NedansjS, Kdrfsta, ..and Viskan. 57 Kil. Torpshammar,
and railway thence to Ange, on the Ostersund and Throndhjem line, see
pp. 371, 370.

The first important place to the N. of Sundsvall is (10 M.) —

Hernosand (Hotel Norrland , dear ; Hotel Bafvern ; Gastgif-
varegard) , capital of the Ian of Vesternorrland , a seaport town
with 5700 inhab., founded in 1584, and now the seat of a bishop
and the 'landshofding' or governor of the province. Handsome new
church, consecrated in 1846. Engine-works, timber-yards, saw-
mills and several manufactories. The town itself, which lies on an
island near the mainland, is uninteresting, but is important to
travellers as the starting-point for a visit to the *Angerman-Elf,

374 Route 51. UMEA. From Gefle

the most beautiful river in Sweden. The Angernian-Elf , which
descends from several lakes near the Norwegian frontier, is navi-
gable as far as Solleftea, about 65 Engl. M. from Hernosand (5hrs. ;
fares 5, 3 kr. ; well-appointed steamers, with restaurants on board).
Hallway from Solleftea to Br'acke, see p. 371. The broad estuary
of the river opens about 3 sea-miles to the N. of Hernosand, and.
6 M. from its mouth lies Nyland (Gastgifvaregard), where the
water is deep enough for large sea-going vessels.

Above Nyland the Angermanland, as this district is called, is
sometimes styled the 'garden of Sweden', and the banks of the
river are well cultivated at places. The scenery is pleasing and
picturesque all the way to Solleftea (Appelberg's Kdllare ; Berg-
land's Hotel), at the confluence of the Faxe-Elf and the Anger-
inan-Elf, a flourishing little place , where the vegetation is un-
usually rich for so northern a latitude (60°). Travellers may drive
hence to Liden, on the Nona Angerman-Elf, 28 Engl M. above Sol-
leftea, another beautiful place. Instead of returning from Solleftea
to the Gulf of Bothnia, the traveller may drive to Pilgrimstad
(p. 371) and take the train thence to Sundsvall (p. 373) or Oster-
sund (p. 371). — The next station to the N. of Hernosand, a little
beyond the Lungb lighthouse, is (15 M.) —

Ornskoldsvik (Hotel), a small seaport with 610 inhab. and
several extensive timber-yards. About halfway between Orn-
skoldsvik and Umea, at the head of the Nordmalings-Fjord, lies —

Nordmaling , another small seaport , of which timber is the
staple commodity. We next reach, 18 M. from Ornskoldsvik, —

Umea, (Hotel Forsherg; Stadskdllaren) , the capital of Vester-
bottens Lan, with 3000 inhab., situated at the mouth of the
Umea, or Ume-Elf. Vessels of heavy tonnage cannot ascend the
estuary beyond Holmsund. The ordinary coasting steamers , how-
ever , proceed as far as Vjupvik, from which passengers are con-
veyed to the town by a smaller steamer. The town, founded
in 1622, was repeatedly plundered by the Russians, and like most
of the other timber-built towns in Sweden has frequently been
injured by fires. The staple commodities are timber, tar, and beer.
Near the town the river is crossed by a wooden bridge, upwards of
300 yds. in length, resting on stone piers. — To the N. of Umea
the steamboat passes the lighthouses of Holmo, Gadd, and Fjader-
dgg, and next touches at (10 M.) —

Ratan, a busy little seaport, trading chiefly in timber. A little
farther N. is Djekneboda, where the Swedes sustained a severe
defeat in 1809 when attempting to drive out the Russian invaders.
The next important station, 14 M. from Ratan, is —

Skelleftea (Kdllare), a little town with 1000 inhab., founded
in 1845, and possessing a large and handsome domed church, the
finest in the Norrland , standing out as conspicuously, says L.
v. Buch, as the temple of Palmyra. The steamer stops at Ursvik, at

to Hdpardnda. LULEA. 51. Route. 37 5

the mouth of the Skellefte-Elf, from which a small steam-launch
conveys passengers to the town. The scantiness of the vegetation
and the stunted character of the trees testify to the inclemency of
the climate (lat. 65°). — The next station, 12 M. farther N., is —
Pitea (Gastgifvaregard), a town with 2600 inhab., founded in
1620, and frequently plundered by the Russians and burned
down. Several iron-works, timber-yards, and saw-mills in the
neighbourhood. — This was formerly the seat of the provincial
government, but the authorities are now established at (15 M.) —
Lule* (Gastgifvaregard; Lundberg), the capital of Norrbotten
Lan, with 3500 inhab. , founded in 1621 , and repeatedly sacked
by Russian marauders. In 1887 one-third of the town was burn-
ed down. As usual in these northern towns , the timber-trade
forms the chief resource of the inhabitants. Here is the office of
the 'New Gellivara Company, Limited', which possesses large estates
in this province, and particularly the hill of Gellivara, about
126 Engl. M. to the N.W., 1750 ft. in height, and described as con-
sisting of one enormous mass of iron ore. A railway is being con-
structed from Lulea, to the Ofotenfjord (p. 325), and the section
between Lulea and Gellivara is to be opened for traffic in 1889.

Fkom LuleI to Qvickjock and to Bod0 in Norway (about 600 Kil. or
370 Engl. SI., a journey of 10-12 days). This is one of the grandest and most
interesting routes in Northern Sweden, penetrating into the heart of Lap-
land and to a considerable distance beyond the Arctic Circle. As far as
(5-7 days) Qvickjock the route is attended with but few difficulties or
privations, and tolerable quarters are procurable at the principal stations ;
but thence to (3-4 days) Fuske on the Saltenfjord (p. 242) the journev
isvery rough and fatiguing, and one night at least must be spent in a
miserable hut, affording no accommodation of any kind. Enquiry should
of course be made as to the steamboats before starting from Lulea , and
Forbud should be sent from station to station for horses, boats, and
even for lodging for the night. In the height of summer the mosquitoes
are an almost insufferable torment, but before the end of June and after
the middle of August the plague is more bearable. The Lule affords
good salmon-fishing as far as the first falls. Higher up, and in the lakes
formed by the river, there is abundance of trout-fishing. The lake-trout
here frequently weighs 20 lbs. and upwards , but is a somewhat coarse
fish. The boatmen on the lakes receive 10-12 0. each per kilometre,
according to a government itinerary which may be procured at Lulea, and
a small fee (drickepengar). The traveller should take with him preserv-
ed meat, biscuits, and wine or spirits, the sale of the latter being prohib-
ited in Lapland. He should also supply himself with a bag of small
notes and coins, as change can rarely be got. A gauze bag to cover the
whole head and shoulders will also be found a useful protection against
the mosquitoes. — The journey is usually divided as follows, but the
traveller's plan of course depends on the steamboat arrangements: —

1st Day. Steamboat to R&backen in 3 hrs. ; walk or drive in l'/2-2
hrs. to Hedensfors (a tolerable station) , which derives its name from
the rapids here. About 8 Kil. above Hedensfors we reach a higher reach
of the Lule, on which another steamer, stopping at Svartla for dinner, con-
veys us to Edefors (a fair station), at the foot of the cataract of that name.
2nd Day. Walk to Ofvve Edefors in '/2 hr. , and take the small
steamer thence to Storbacken (tolerable quarters), at the confluence of
the Lilla and Stora Lule-Elf, about 30 Kil. from Edefors; drive thence in
7-8 hrs. to Jockmock (fair inn), with its church and parsonage. Visit the
magnificent fall of the Lule in the vicinity.

376 Route 5i. hAparanda.

3rd Day. Drive to Vaikijaurby, a hamlet of fishermen's huts, on the
Vaiki-Jaur, in 1 hr. (excursion hence to the Njommelsaska Falls, see
below) ; row to the head of the lake in 2'/2-3 hrs. ; walk to the Purki-
Jaur in 1 hr., and traverse this lake by boat in 1 hr. more; then walk
in 1 hr. to the Randi-Jaur , the head of which is reached by boat in
2 hrs.; next, a walk of 10 min. to the Parki-Jaur , and a row of 1 hr.
and a walk of 20 min. to the Skalka-Jaur ; lastly by boat in i/« hr. to
Bjorkholm (a fair station), an island in the lake, situated about midway
between Jockmock and Qvickjock.

4th Day. Ascend the Skalka-Jaur by boat to Tjamatis in 3 hrs.
(where the boatmen rest for an hour), and then the Tjamatis-Jaur to
Njauve (a good station) in 3 hrs. more.

5th Day. Walk in 1/2 hr. to the lower end of the Saggat-Jaur ; lastly
row in 5 hrs. more to —

Qvickjock (poor station; travellers are also received by the sexton
ilauberg, who charges 2 kr. daily), a very picturesque spot about 950 ft.
above the sea-level , in about 67° N. latitude , whence the midnight sun
is visible fully as long as from Bod0 (see table, p. 230), and longer than
from the Avasaxa to the N. of Haparanda. The village consists of half-
a-dozen red timber-built houses and a church , and commands a fine
view of the Kamajock and the Tarajock , which fall into the Saggat-Jaur
in the neighbourhood. Excellent trout-fishing in the rivers and the lake.
The summit of the Snejerak commands an extensive view, and is a good
point from which to survey the midnight sun. — Most travellers now
return to Lulea by the same route, which may be accomplished more
rapidly than the ascent, being down hill and with the stream. Those
who prefer to cross by the foot of the Sulilelma to Norway must be
prepared for some fatigue and privations, but will be rewarded by seeing
the grandest scenery on this interesting route (comp. p. 242).

"Fall of Njommelsaska. This most imposing waterfall , with the
cataract below it , is formed by the Stora Lule after it emerges from
the Slora Lule- Jaw, or Great Lule Lake. It is situated about 30 Kil.
to the N. of Vaikijaurby (see above), where a guide may be obtained
(5 kr. a day during the hay-harvest, at other times less). This excur-
sion generally occupies the greater part of 3 days. First. Walk or drive
from Jockmock to Vaikijaur in 1 hr. ; cross to the settlers' huts at
Vaikijaur by boat in 20 min. ; thence walk in 4-4'/2 hrs. to Ligga
(poor hut with no beds, but good milk and coffee), crossing a small
lake on the way. (A boy should be sent on the previous day , either
from Jockmock or from Vaikijaurby, to ascertain that the boat is on
the S. side of the lake. If this precaution is not taken , the traveller
will have to walk round its marshy bank to the opposite side, a dis-
agreeable digression which will add about 2 hrs. to the journey). — Second.
From Ligga to the Njommelsaska Falls (950 ft.) a walk of 4-5 hrs. through
a great forest, and back to Ligga, which the traveller will scarcely reach
before evening, so that a second night must be spent in the comfortless
hut. — Third. Return to the Vaikijaur. A guide and a supply of pro-
visions for the excursion are of course necessary. — The height of the
waterfall is not more than 40 ft., but the stupendous cataract, formed by
the long rapids above and below it, descends about 250 ft. in all , and,
with the wild and trackless forest surrounding it, presents a strikingly im-
pressive scene. The thunder of the fall is heard at a distance of many miles.

To the N. of Lulea is Ranea , a village with iron-works and
timher-yards , to which a small steamboat plies , and to the E. of
Ranea. lies Neder-Kalix , an extensive timber-depot. On leaving
Lulea, the large steamers steer to the N.E. direct to (17 M.) —

Haparanda (Hotel), the most northerly town in Sweden, with
1200inhab., situated on the right bank of the Tome-Elf, 740 Engl.
M. from Stockholm. The sea-going steamers stop at the roads of
Salmis , 5 Engl. M. below Haparanda , whence travellers proceed

ISLAND OF GOTLAND. 52. Route. 377

to the town by stolkjierre (fare 2 kr.). — The Tome-Elf forms the
boundary between Sweden and the Russian grand-duchy of Fin-
land, in which the first town is the neighbouring Tornea.

To the N. of Haparanda, a little to the S. of the Arctic Circle,
rises the Avasaxa , a hill which commands a perfect view of the
midnight sun from June 22nd to June 25th. It is at this time
visited by hundreds of travellers. The tour from Haparanda to Mt.
Avasaxa and back occupies 25-30 hrs., exclusive of a night's rest.
"We drive by 'skjuts' through a well-cultivated district on the
right bank of the Tome-Elf. The scenery is sometimes pictur-
esque. Stations: (17 Kil.) Kukkola, (18 Kil.) Korpikyla, (16 Kil.)
Pakila, (12 Kil.) Niemis, (21 Kil.) Ruskola, and (3 Kil.) Mata-
rengi (Inn; see p. 274), which is reached in about 11 hrs. We
now hire a guide , cross the broad and rock-strewn Tome-Elf in a
flat-bottomed boat, and ascend over smooth and moss-clad rocks to
(3/4 hr.) the top of Mt. Avasaxa (670 ft.), which commands a
beautiful view of the valley of the Tome-Elf and the hills enclos-
ing it. This point was long the 'Ultima Thule' of aspiring tra-
vellers, who could formerly reach the Arctic circle more easily
from the head of the Gulf of Bothnia than by following the Nor-
wegian coast. The church-register at Jukasjarvi contains inter-
esting entries made by many of them, which are recorded by
Acerbi. The earliest of them is by Reignard, the French savant
(1681), who concludes with the words —

'Sistimus hie tandem, nobis ubi defuit orbis1.
Charles XI. visited this spot in 1694 , Linnaeus in 1732, Celsius
and Maupertuis in 1736, and Louis Philippe in 1796.

52. From Stockholm to Visby.

Steamboat 4-5 times weekly in 12-13 hrs. (fare 8 or 6 kr. j. — The steam-
boats 'Gotland', 'Visby', 'Rurik\ and 'Klintehamn' start from the Riddar-
holmen quay; the 'Tjelvar' starts from Skepsbron. Comp. Sveriges Kom-
munikationer, Nos. 53, 57, 60.

The Island of Gotland (Outaland), which is about 70 Engl. M.
in length and 20-35 M. in breadth, lies between 56° 50' and 58°
N. lat. and between 18° 70' and 19° 50' E. long., at a distance of
about 60 Engl. M. from the mainland of Sweden and about 40 M.
from the island of Oland. It consists of a plateau of limestone rock
of the Silurian formation (overlaid with sandstone at the S. end),
rising to a height of 80 - 100 ft. , and terminating abruptly on
the sea-board, where the cliffs are here known as landtborgar.
On this plateau are a few isolated hills, as the Thorsburg (225 ft.)
and the Hoburg (120 ft.). The islands of Stora and Lilla Karlso,
which rise to the S.W. of Klintehamn are 190 ft. and 210 ft. high
respectively. In every part of Gotland occur large boulders of gra-
nite and porphyry (grastenar, vrakstenar, or rullstenar), deposited
here by ice when the island lay under water. There are no valleys

378 Route 52. GOTLAND. From Stockholm

or brooks in the island worthy of mention , but a considerable
part of its surface is covered with swamps (myrar or trask), from
which peat is dug (jestingly called the 'gold-mines of Gotland').
The largest of these is the Lummelunds- Trask. The few scanty
streams which the island contains are lost in the thirsty limestone
soil, or in summer dry up altogether. Here and there, however,
a spring wells forth from one of the 'landtborgar' in sufficient vol-
ume to turn a mill-wheel. The limestone rocks are pierced with
numerous grottoes. In parts of the island the surface of the earth
is covered with loose stones (kalk-klapper), but the greater part of
it is fertile and well cultivated. The climate is mild, and the town
of Visby boasts of flourishing mulberry and walnut trees and of ivy
climbing luxuriantly over its venerable walls. The population
(52,570) is chiefly occupied with agriculture and cattle-breeding.
The horses (here called 'russ') and sheep of Gotland are allowed to
run wild in summer. Quarrying and lime-burning may be men-
tioned among the other resources of the island. Gotland forms a
separate province of Sweden, having a Nationalbevaring, or mi-
litia of its own, in which all the men between the ages of 18 and
50 are liable to serve. — Owing to their insular position, the
people of Gotland have retained many primitive characteristics,
and traces of their national poetry and sagas still survive. They
pride themselves on speaking purer Swedish than the Stock-
holmers, and they generally pronounce more distinctly. Their more
frequent use of diphthongs recalls to some extent the Gothic of
Ulphilas. One of the chief curiosities of the island consists in its
numerous churches (over 90), some of them very handsome build-
ings, with their large detached towers, known as castellar, prob-
ably ancient places of refuge and much older than the churches
themselves. The roads are good, and the inns fair.

The History of Gotland is inseparable from that of Visby, its
capital, the ancient 'place of sacrifice' (from vi, 'victim'; viga
'consecrate'), situated at the foot of the Klint, a 'landtborg' on the
N.W. coast of the island. The town owed its early prosperity as
the great emporium of the Baltic to its convenient position on the
great commercial route established in the 12th cent, between Asia,
Novgorod in Russia , and the Baltic , and at the point where this
route was intersected by the stream of western European traffic.
Owing , however , to interruptions by the Mongolians and to other
causes , the eastern traffic was gradually diverted to southern
Europe, and even began to find its way round the Gape of Good Hope.
Visby was an important factory of the Hanseatic League, where all
the principal nations of Europe had their representatives. The Ger-
man element, however, preponderated, half of the members of the
council and one of the two superior magistrates usually being
Germans. On the whole, however, Visby maintained its character
as the free international seaport of the Baltic , and this is con-

to Visby. GOTLAND. 52. Route. 379

firmed by the fact that the principal churches of the place were
erected by several of the different rival nations. — The famous
maritime Code of Visby , which has no pretension to originality,
being a compilation from Netherlandish and Romanic sources,
is called (in low German) the ' Waterrecht, dat de Kooplilde und de
Schippers gemaket liebben to Wisby'. — The wealth of the town
in its palmy days was proverbial : —

'Guld vaga de Gutar pa lispundvag
Och spela med adlaste stenar.
Svinen ata ur silfvertrag
Och hustrurna spinna pa guld-tenar'.

(Old Ballad).
(The Gotlanders weigh their gold with twenty-pound weights and play
with the choicest jewels. The pigs eat out of silver troughs, and the
women spin with golden distaffs. )

Having become involved in the wars between Sweden and
Denmark, Visby was attacked by Valdemar III. of Denmark in
1361. He landed at Eista-Socken, to the S. of the town, and out-
side the gates of the city defeated the inhabitants, of whom 1800
fell. He then plundered the place, carrying off his booty to Den-
mark, but the largest of his vessels foundered near the Karlsoar,
where it is said still to lie, laden with rich treasures. The town
never recovered from the effects of this invasion.

The annals of the following centuries are chequered with the
varying fortunes of the wars between Sweden and Denmark. For
a time the island was in the possession of the Teutonic Order,
a period (according to Prof. Bergman , the author of 'Gotlands
Geografl och Historia') still regarded by the natives as one of the
happiest in their history ; but it seems always to have formed a
refuge for adventurers and marauders of all kinds , including the
'Vitalienbriider' , Eric XIII. of Pomerania, the deposed king of
Sweden, Ivar Axelson, and particularly Severin Norby, the Danish
admiral. The possession of this 'insula latronurn, as it is called
by Adam of Bremen, was long contested by Swedes, Danes, and
burghers of Liibeck, with varying success , but it was finally re-
united to its proper mother-country by the Peace of Bromsebro in
1645. By this time, however, the prosperity of the place had
dwindled to a mere shadow, and even so early as 1534 the Regent
of the Netherlands writes, probably with some exaggeration , that
Visby, once the most important commercial town in the Baltic,
was then a mere heap of ruins.

Visby (Stads-Hotellet , Strand-Gatan, PI. B, C, 3, with restau-
rant and cafe ; Smedmaris Hotel, Hast-Gatan, PI. C, 3, and Oastgif-
varegard, at the Sodraport, PI. 0, 5, are hotels garnis ; Restaurant,
Strand-Gatan 18 ; Baths of the Nya Badhusbolag , to the S. of the
harbour), which now contains 6700 inhab., or less than one-third
of its population in the days of its mediaeval prosperity, is pictur-
esquely situated partly at the base of and partly upon the Klint,
a cliff 100 ft. in height , and now occupies less than half of the

380 Route 52. GOTLAND. From Stockholm

area enclosed by its walls. The unused space is covered with
gardens, amidst which stand the imposing and carefully preserved
ruined churches, while the town is still almost entirely surrounded
by its ancient wall (see below). "Whether viewed from the sea or
the land, the town presents a very imposing appearance. In sum-
mer it is much visited by the Stockholmers for the sake of the
sea-bathing. (See Plan, p. 359.)

Beautiful public * Walks between the town and the sea, afford-
ing views of both , are offered by the Botaniska Trddgard , the
Student-AUee, and the Strandvag.

Near the tower of Silfverhatta (PI. B, C, 2), or Mynt-Tornet, is
a cafe'. Immediately above the bath-houses are Slotts-Parken and
Palisaderna, and in the town Skolbetningen. Another very inter-
esting walk is through the Norra Stadsport to *St. Goran and the
former gallows-hill, whence the finest view of the town and par-
ticularly of the walls is obtained (see p. 381). Even more pictur-
esque is the survey enjoyed from the Klint, above St. Mary's Church .

Visby is divided into four rotar or quarters, indicated on the
Plan by varieties of shading. St. Hans-Rota, the oldest part of
the town, contained most of the large churches ; Strand-Rota ad-
joins the old harbour, which is now filled up and covered with
gardens ; Norder-Rota, the northern quarter, contains the churches
of SS. Clement and Nicholas; and Klint-Rota forms an upperquarter
of the town, lying between the lower parts and the eastern wall.

The new Inner Harbour (Jnre Hamnen; PI. A, B, 4) affords
but little protection to shipping, while the Outer Harbour (Yttre
Hamnen) is formed by breakwaters (vagbrytare) on the W. side,
which are frequently washed away by storms.

The *Town Walls, erected at the close of the 13th cent, on
the site of still earlier walls , form the most striking feature of
Visby. From the Jungfrutom ('maiden's tower' ; PI. C, 1) where,
according to tradition , a treacherous maid of Visby who was in
league with Valdemar, was built into the wall as a punishment,
and the Karnes Tower (PI. C, D, 1) on the coast, at the N.W. end
of the town, they ascend the Klint towards the E., traverse the
hill in a slight curve to the S. gate at the S.E. angle of the town
(PI. C, 5), and by the old castle of Visborg (p. 381) descend to the
harbour at the S.W. end of the town. On the land, side the walls
are about 2400 yds. in length, and on the side next the sea about
1970 yds. From the walls , at equal distances , and in several
stories, rise a number of large Towers (Hogtornen) 60-70 ft. in
height, provided with embrasures, and resting on the ground,
while between them a series of bartizans (Hangtornen, or Sadel-
tornen) stand on the wall itself, being supported externally by
means of corbels. Between these towers, and under the roof with
which the wall is covered, formerly ran passages for the use of
the sentinels, resting on beams, the holes for which are still trace-

to Visby. GOTLAND. 52. Route. 381

able. Of the 48 'high towers' with which the wall was once provided
38 are still in good preservation, but the bartizans have almost all
disappeared. Outside the walls the old moat is still traceable, and
on the N. side there are two moats parallel to each other.

Of the once famous stronghold of Visborg (PI. A, 4), above the
harbour, a few fragments only now remain. Three of its ancient
towers were named Smale Hindrik ('thin Henry'), Kik-ut ('look-
out'), and 'Sluk-upp' ('swallow up').

Visby once possessed fifteen Chubches , three of which have
entirely disappeared, eleven are in ruins (the custodian of the keys
lives near St. Nicholas), and one only is still used for divine wor-
ship. This is the Cathedral of St. Mary (PL D, 2), situated at the
base of the Klint, erected in 1190-1225, but afterwards much al-
tered. A large tower rises at the W. end, and two slender ones at
the E. end. The hill at the back of it commands the extensive
* View already mentioned.

To the W. of the cathedral are the 'sister churches' of St.
Drotten (PI. 12) and St. Lars (PI. 17), dating from the 12th
cent., and provided with huge towers which were once probably
used for defensive purposes. To the S. is *St. Catharine's (PI. 16),
the church of the Franciscans, erected about 1230, once an elegant
Gothic edifice, of which twelve lofty and slender pillars and the ribs
of the vaulting are still standing. — The Helge-Andeskyrka, or
Church of the Holy Ghost (PI. 15), built in the Romanesque style
about 1250, consists of two stories, one above the other, which
have one choir in common. — To the W. lies the Romanesque
church of St. Clement (PI. 11), with a fine S. portal.

Perhaps the most interesting of the ruined churches is that of
*St. Nicholas (PI. 19 ; D, 2). In the handsome facade are two rose-
windows, in the middle of each of which, says tradition, there once
sparkled a brilliant carbuncle. These precious stones were carried off
by Valdemar, and they are said still to illumine the depths of the
ocean near the Karlsoer (p. 379). The church is partly in the
Romanesque, and partly in the Gothic style, having probably been
built after the middle of the 13th century. The interior is very-
picturesque. It is worth while to ascend to the overgrown roof,
which presents a curious appearance and commands a fine view.

The churches of -St. Gertrude (PI. 13) and -St. Olaf (PI. 20 ;
to the S. of the Botanic Garden) and that of -St. Hans (PI. 14;
to the S. of the St.Hansplats) are now insignificant ruins. -St. Go-
ran (comp Plan, to the right of D, 1), to the N. of the town, is
sometimes visited for the sake of the beautiful view it commands
(p. 380). Near it is the Galgebacke, or gallows-hill, with the stones
on which the gibbet was formerly erected. — Visby still contains
many interesting Dwelling-houses in the Hanseatic style, the finest
of which is the Burmeister house in the Danplats, adorned with
tasteful paintings and numerous German inscriptions.

382 Route 52. GOTLAND.

In the Korsbetning (PI. D, 5), about 5 minutes' walk beyond
the S.E. gate of the town, rises a monolithic Cross, 9 ft. in height,
with a Latin inscription, marking the burial-place of the Gotlan-
ders who fell in the battle of 27th July, 1361 (p. 379).

Excursions. A pleasant drive or sail of 1 hr. may be taken to
the promontory of *Hbgklint (150 ft.), to the S. of Visby. Ped-
estrians follow the high-road from the S. gate of the town (PI.
C, 5), and take the first turning to the right beyond the memorial
stone erected in honour of the visit of Oscar II. Carriages stop at
the Villa Fridhem , the property of Princess Eugenie , sister of
King Oscar II., with well-kept grounds, open to the public. The
Hogklint affords a fine view of Visby, beyond the Buskevik. Steps
ascend on the W. side of the rock to a small pasture (Getsvciltan)
and a Cavern.

The island now possesses a narrow-gauge Railway, opened in 1879,
which runs from Visby to (55 Kil. or 34 Engl. M.) Hemse in 3 hrs. (fares
3 kr. 30, 2 kr. 20 6\). The station at Visby is on the S. side of the
town (PI. B, 5). — Stations: 13 Kil. Bardlingbo; 21 Kil. Roma, with an
old Cistercian convent, partly remodelled in the last few centuries ; 27 Kil.
Bjerges; 32 Kil. Butte; 40 Kil. Etelhern; 46 Kil. Stanga, with an inter-
esting old church. Then (55 Kil.) Hemse.

Instead of using the railway, travellers are recommended to hire a
carriage and drive round the whole island. We first proceed to the N.,
passing the church and grotto of Lummelund, to Farbsund, the station of
the French and English fleets during the war with Russia in 1855. Then along
the E. coast to Rute ; Elite, near which are Kyllej and the curious rocks
called the Stenjattar, or Stone Giants ; Thorsburg, with an interesting cir-
cular intrenchment, 1600 yds. in circumference ; Ronehamn, to the E. of
Hemse ; and Refsudden, the southernmost promontory of the island. The S.
part of the island is destitute of wood, but the curious promontory of Ho-
burgs Refsudde, with its lighthouse and cavern, will repay a visit. From
Refsudden we may return to Visby via, Klintehamn, a village on the
coast, 30 Kil. to the S. of Visby, visited by sea-bathers in summer (dili-
gence and steamboat to Visby). From Klintehamn a visit may be paid
to the picturesque Karlsbarne. This excursion affords a good opportun-
ity of studying the handsome Gothic churches of the island, most of them
dating from the 13th century. Their large castellated towers appear to have
been used in ancient times as places of refuge and are therefore probably
older than the churches themselves (comp. p. 378). The best guide-book for
this journey is Gotland's Konsthistoria by Brunius.

From Visby the traveller may either return to Stockholm by
one of the four steamboats above mentioned, or proceed to Borg-
holm and Kalmar (see p. 391), to which a steamer runs from Visby
thrice weekly (to Borgholm 9-10 hrs. ; to Kalmar 2 hrs. more).

53. From Stockholm to Malmo by Nassjo.

618 Kil. (383 Engl. M.). Express Train (between June 1st and Sept.
30th only) in 132/3-14'/2 hrs. and fast train in 16-17 hrs. (fares 52 kr. 55,
37 kr. 10, 23 kr. 40 b.); ordinary trains in 38 hrs. (fares 43 kr. 30, 32 kr.
45, 21 kr. 65 o. ; a berth in the sleeping car costs 10 kr. more than a 1st class
ticket). Travellers who wish to break the journey may spend the night
at Linkbping, Niissjb, or Norrkoping. A pleasanter way of varying the
journey is to take the train to Norsholm, proceed thence by steamer on
the Guta Canal and lake Yetlem (Tues., Thurs., and Sat.) to Jonkbping,

ALFVESTA. 53. Route. 383

pass the night there, and go on by rail to Malmo next day (comp. p. 305).
— In each railway-compartment a notice is posted up, giving information
of the stations at which the train stops to enable the traveller to dine
and sup.

FromNassjo to Malmo (268 Kil. or 166 Engl. SI.), express in 53/4-7 hrs.
(see above) ; other trains in 10 hrs. (fares 18 kr. 80, 14 kr. 10, 9 kr. 40 ci. ;
express 22 kr. 80, 16 kr. 10 6.). Return-tickets are issued onlv for dis-
tances beyond 75 Kil., and are not available for the express trains. The
holders of circular tickets may, however, travel by the express.

From Stockholm to (350 Kil.) Nassj'6, see R. 41.

Beyond Nassjo the train traverses the district of Smaland (so
called from the 'small patches of arable land' with which it is sprin-
kled), which extends from Lake Vettern to Skane, 140 Engl. M. to
the S. This region consists of moor, swamp, wild forest, lakes, and
rocky islands, all intermingled in ch aotic confusion and interminable
succession. These features are peculiarly characteristic of Swedish
scenery, occurring with few interruptions all the way from Mal-
mo to Haparanda. They most probably owe their origin to the
action of the ice and snow with which the whole peninsula was
once covered. The stones and rocks bear indications of having been
worn and rounded by glacier-action, while the mounds of debris,
the isolated patches of alluvial soil, the barren rocks, and the
dreary moors are traceable to the agency of snow and torrents,
resembling in many places the moraines of Switzerland. The forest
[skog, from skugga, 'shadow',' as contrasted with lund, which signi-
fies a pleasant 'grove'), which clothes the greater part of this terri-
tory, and the countless gloomy lakes, with which this district in
particular is not inaptly said to be 'riddled', hardly contribute to
enliven the scene. The railway-engineers encountered great diffi-
culties here, and the traveller will observe that lofty embankments,
cuttings, and bridges are very numerous. A few churches, with
their detached belfries (klockstapel), are seen at intervals, and the
monotony of the landscape is farther relieved by groups of red,
timber-built cottages, roofed with green turf, and patches of
pasture. Manufactories, too, are occasionally passed, and wherever
water-power is available it is utilised by mills.

The next stations are Grimstorp, Sandsjo, Stifsjo (branch hence
to Hvetlanda), Stockaryd, and Lamhult , to the right of which,
400 ft. above the railway, rises the Gronskulle. 424 Kil. Moheda.

436 Kil. (269 Engl. M.) Alfvesta (Viman's Hotel; *Rail. Re-
staurant, with a few beds), prettily situated on Lake Salen (470 ft.),
is the junction of a branch-line to Vexib, Karlskrona, and Kalmar
(see R. 54). Near Alfvesta is the ancient church of Aringsas, with
a belfry and interesting Runic stones.

450 Kil. (279 M.) Vislanda, the scene of the old Blenda Saga,
lies on the Bravalla Heath.

Fkom Vislanda to Bolmen, 51Kil. (Sl'^Engl. 31.), railway in 2>/2-3hrs.
(fares 3 kr. 60, 2 kr. 30 o.). The intermediate stations are Malaskog,
Ryssby, Tutaryd, Ljungby, and Angelstad. Bolmeii lies on the lake (465 ft.)
of that name, a sheet of water 10 Engl. M. long and 6 31. broad, from which

384 Route 53. HESSLEHOLM. From Stockholm

the river Lagaa (p. 289) issues. The long island of Bolmsjb, once the seat of
the heathen kings of Finveden, as W.Sm&land is called, contains several
interesting tombstones.

Fkom Vislanda to Karlshamn, 78 Kil. (48'/2 Engl. M.), railway in
33/4-4'/2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 50, 3 kr. 55 6.). „The train traverses a hilly and
wooded tract, and soon reaches Lake Asnen (450 ft.), a large sheet of
water, the bays of which it repeatedly crosses. Beyond Ulfb it crosses
to an island in the lake and then recrosses to the mainland, where the
country becomes more level. Beyond Ryd we enter the valley of the
Morrumsa. The scenery improves as the sea is approached, and is very
pleasing at Asarum, the station before Karlshamn.

78 Kil. (48'/2 M.) Karlshamn (Stadshuset, in the Kungs-Gata ; Gibraltar,
on the quay), at the mouth of the Miea in the pretty district of Blekinge,
with 6800 inhab., erected into a town and re-named in 1668. The Klock-
stapel, or belfry, a stone tower adjoining the church, was erected at the
end of the 18th cent., and is sometimes called Karlshamns Fafanga
('Karlshamn's vanity'), as on completion it was found unequal to bearing
the weight of the bells. • — A very pleasant excursion may be taken to
the Asarumsdal and the Offerkalla ('sacrificial spring"), and to Slromma
and Rosenborg, whence we may return by Tubbaryd. — About 7-8 Kil. to
the N. E. of the town is an artificial hill composed of huge stones, called
the Valhall, probably an Attestupa, or place from which old and infirm
persons used to throw themselves in ancient times in order to avoid the
supposed ignominy of dying in their beds.

To the right lies the long Mbckeln-Sjo (445 ft.). To the left,
between (468 Kil.) Liatorp and (484 Kil.) Elmhult, the last station
in Smaland , lies Rashult , the birthplace of Linnseus (13th May,
1707), whose father was the pastor here at that time, but soon
afterwards removed to the neighbouring parish of Stenbrohult. An
obelisk was erected here in 1866 to the great naturalist's memory.

493 Kil. (306 M.) Killeberg is the first station in Skane, and
the train now gradually descends into a more smiling region.
Beyond Ousby, Hastveda, and Balingslbf, we reach —

535 Kil. (332 M.) Hessleholm (Jemvcigs-Hotellet; Railway Re-
staurant), an increasing place, at the junction of several railways.
To the W. lies Lake Finja (150 ft.).

From Hessleholm to Helsingborg, see p. 388.

From Hessleholm to Christianstad, 30 Kil. (18'/2 Engl. M.), railway
in l>/4 hr. (fares 2 kr. 10, 1 kr. 5 6.). This railway traverses a well culti-
vated district and passes a number of unimportant stations. Beyond Kar-
palund, where a branch-line diverges to (35 Kil.) Degeberga and the sea-
port of Ahus, it crosses the Helgea and reaches —

30 Kil. Christianstad (Sladshusel ; Frimurarelogen ; JernvUgs-Hotellel),
the capital of Norra Skane, founded in 1614, with 9700 inhab., and the
seat of the governor and the district courts, which are established in the
Eronhus. The town is pleasantly situated on a peninsula in the Sjovik,
a lake formed by the Helgea. The principal edifice is the Church, erected
in 1G17. At the mouth of the Helgea , on the island of Alio, 14 Kil. to
the S.E., lies Ahus, the seaport of Christianstad.

The Railway from Christianstad to Solvesborg (31 Kil. in l>/2 hr.;
fares 2 kr. 30, 1 kr. 45 6.) is a narrow-gauge line (3'/2 ft.), traversing a
somewhat uninteresting district. About 3l/2 Engl. M. to the N. of Fjelk-
inge lies the Oppmannasjo, with the pleasant estate of Karlsholm on its
W. bank. 13 Kil. Beckaskog, the next station, derives its name from the
old chateau of Beckaskog, beautifully situated 2 Engl. M. to the N., on
a narrow tongue of land between the Oppmannasjo and the Ifbsjb. It
was originally a Bernardine monastery and now belongs to the crown.
Charles XV. frequently visited this spot, and has composed verses in its
praise. On the J/b, an island in the lake, are the Ugnsmunnar ('oven-

to Malmo. ESLOF. 53. Route. 385

holes'), curious orifices in the belemnite limestone. On the E. side of
the island is the Hofgard, a farm-house built over a kind of crypt (now
used as a cellar), in which Bishop Lunneson, an incurable leper, is said
to have spent several years. The island once belonged to Marshal Toll
('Excellensen Toll'), who when governor-general resided here in 1782-1817.
— To the S. of the Beckaskog station are the large estate and mansion
of Trolle-Ljungby, which has successively belonged to several noble fami-
lies of historical note. — The train stops at two unimportant stations,
beyond which the Scenery improves, and lastly (31 Kil. from Christian-
stad) at —

61 Kil. or 38 M. (from Hessleholm) Solvesborg , a small town, with
several large distilleries and the ruins of an old castle.

Near [550 Kil.) Sosdala is the church of Mallby , where the
composer Otto Lindblad was once sacristan. Then Tjornarp and
(564 Kil.) Hd>, whence there is a branch-line to (13 Kil.) Horby.
To the N. of Hor rises the basaltic hill of Anneklef. The country
now begins to be enlivened with pleasant groves of beeches. From
Hor a drive may be taken to the Bosjokloster on the Ringsjo (see
below), whence the traveller may return to the railway at Stehag.
Beyond Hor we obtain a pleasing view of the Ringsjo to the left,
a visit to which may be paid from (574 Kil.) Stehag.

From Stehag a pleasant drive may be taken to the N.W. to (16 Kil.)
Rostanga, near which is the small but picturesque, crater-like Odensjo.
Farther N., at the foot of the Sbder&s, lies Allavp, to the W. of which,
near Rdrbd, is the wooded ravine of Skaralid, 5 Kil. in length.

Another interesting excursion may be taken from Stehag to the wood-
girt Ringsjo to the S.E., by driving to (10 Kil.) Vrangelsborg, where the
lake should be crossed to the Bosjokloster, once a monastery and a famous
resort of pilgrims. An oak here, 40 ft. in circumference, is said to be
the oldest tree in Sweden. The peninsula on which the mansion of Bos-
jokloster stands is visible from the train between Hor and Stehag. At
the E. end of the lake are the estates of Fulltofla and Ousbyholm. From
Bosjokloster to Hor about 13 Kil. by the road (see above).

584 Kil. (362 Engl. M.) Eslof (Jemvags-Hotellet ; Nilssoris), a
town with 1400 inhab., is the junction of several branch-lines.
Pleasing scenery with numerous parks and country-seats.

From Eslof to Ystad, see p. 396.

From Eslof to Helsingborg, 77 Kil. (48 Engl. M.), railway in 2-27z hrs.
(fares 3 kr. 45, 1 kr. 75 6.). — 5 Kil. Trollenas. The train traverses a tame
arable district, with several unimportant stations. 10 Kil. Marieholm;
15 Kil. Teclcomalorp. 21 Kil. Billeberga is the junction for the railway to
Landskrona (see below). ■ — Beyond Tagarp, in a^ productive coal-district,
the line passes below the railway from Landskrona to Engelholm. Stations
Vallakra, Bans, Ramlosa. — 77 Kil. Helsingborg, see p. 388.

From Eslof to Landskrona, 32 Kil. (20 Engl. M.), railway in iy.i-2 hrs.
(fares 2 kr. 25, 1 kr. 15 o.). — From Eslof to (21 Kil.) Billeberga, see above.
24 Kil. Asmundtorp. — 32 Kil. (20 M.) Landskrona ("Stads-Hotellet ; Drufvcm ;
English vice-consul, Mr. Ferd. E. JVeess), a town with 11,500 inhab., pos-
sessing an excellent harbour 22-36 ft. deep, was founded by Erie XIII.
in 1413. The Castle, which was completed in 1543, is now used as a
prison and a storehouse. To the N. of the town is Hvilan, a favourite
resort. — Steamboat to Copenhagen once or twice daily.

From Landskrona to Engklholm, 48 Kil. (30 Engl. M.), railway in
2'/i hrs. (fares 3 kr. 20 6., 2 kr.). The intermediate stations are unim-
portant. Beyond (9 Kil.) Vadensjo the line crosses the Helsingborg and
Billeberga railway by a bridge (see above). Near (26 Kil.) Billesholm are
extensive coal-mines. 35 Kil. Astorp is the junction of the Hessleholm-Hel-
singborg line (see p. 388) and for Hbganas (p. 289). — 48 Kil. (30 M.) Engel-
holm (see p. 289).

Baedekeb's Norwav and SwH»» *»>■ *" = <;. 05

386 Route 53. LUND. From Stockholm

From Landskrona a visit, may lie paid to the Swedish island of ffven,
about 5 Kngl. M. distant, with the church of St. lbs (a corruption of
.lacobus), where the famous Danish astronomer Tycho Brake once pos-
sessed a chateau called Uranienborg and his subterranean observatory of
Stelleborg. Of these, however, there is now no trace. — Sailing-boat 4-5 kr.

At (593 Kil.) Ortofta the train crosses the Lodde. To the Tight
is the Sliparebacken ('Hill of St. Liberius'), where the Danish kings
used to receive the homage of the province of Skane. Charles XI.
defeated the Danes here in 1676.

601 Kil. (372 M.) Luna (*Stadshuset, Stor-Torg; Skandinavie;
Jcrnvags-Hotellet ; Lindstett, bookseller, Stor-Torg), a town with
15,000 inhab., and a place of very ancient origin, which accord-
ing to popular tradition was already a flourishing place at the be-
ginning of the Christian era. In the early annals of Sweden it is
said to have been a wealthy and fortified town in the 10th cent.,
and in 1048 the first bishop was appointed. In 1104 the bishop-
ric was erected into an archiepiscopal see, and the archbishop be-
came the primate of the whole of Scandinavia. Shortly afterwards
Lund was even styled the 'capital of Denmark', and was frequently
the residence of the kings. After many vicissitudes the prosperity
of the place gradually declined, and the last archbishop was
banished and popery abolished by Christian III. in 1536. In its
palmy days Lund is said to have had a population of 200,000
souls and to have contained 21 churches, besides several mon-
asteries, but after the expulsion of the archbishop the town lost
all its importance, and for upwards of a century was a mere vil-
lage. Its modern prosperity dates from the foundation of the uni-
versity by Charles XI. in 1668, but to this day it presents a_some-
what dull and rustic appearance, especially during the university
vacations. [Plan, see p. 393.)

The Lundagard, with the neighbouring Lilla Torg and Tegners-
Plats , are the chief centres of attraction. The beautiful trees
here form a pleasant feature of the place.

In the centre of the town rises the *Cathf,diia:l (PI. B, 3), dedi-
cated to St. Lawrence, which on the whole is perhaps the finest
church in Scandinavia. It was consecrated by Archbishop Eskil
(p. 354) in 1145. It is a pure Romanesque edifice, with two towers
and a semicircular apse, resembling the famous Rhenish churches
of Laach, Andernach, Coblenz, and Boppard. The whole building
has been judiciously restored. The exterior, especially of the choir,
is elaborately adorned in a manner that recalls the Middle Rhenish
style of about 1150, and is probably to be referred to the period
after the conflagration of 1172. A round-arched colonnade runs
round the first story ; above that on the line of the windows are
blind arcades, and above that again a low open colonnade.

The Interior, although only 210 ft. in length (108 ft. wide, 70 ft. high),
presents a handsome appearance owing to the breadth of the W. end, and
to the fact that the pavement rises in the middle iVs ft. above its level
at the sides of the church (as in the Pantheon at Rome). Nine pillars on
each side separate the nave from the aisles. Seventeen steps ascend from

to Malmo. LUND. 53. Route. 387

the nave to the massive transept, two more to the choir, and la.st.ly three
to the high-altar. The visitor should observe the handsome Pulpit, the
venerable seven-branched 'Candelabrum, the carved Gothic Choir-Stalls, and
the new Frescoes on a gold background, by Thulin.

Under the transept and choir lies the spacious and imposing "Crypt
(Kraftilyrlan), 121 ft. long, 33 ft. wide, and 13 ft. high, one of the largest
in the world. The vaulting is borne by 24 pillars, and there are ten small
windows in the sides. In the N. arm of the crypt is a large Well, em-
bellished with satirical figures and inscriptions by Van Duren, a Dutch
master, who lived in Lund between 1513 and 1527. Archbishop Birger (d. 1519)
is buried here. On one of the pillars are the figures of the giant Finn
and his wife, the traditional builders of the church. They were hired by
St. Lawrence to construct the building, and they stipulated either for the
sun and the moon, or for the saint's own eyes aa their reward, unless the
holy man should succeed in guessing the giant's name. Luckily the saint
overheard the giantess pronounce her husband's name while she was lull-
ing her child to sleep, and thus saved his eyes. The enraged giant and
his wife thereupon attempted to pull the church down again, but the saint
converted them into stone, and their figures still testify to the truth of
the story. — The Klockare, who shows the church, lives in the Adel-
Gatan, at some distance from the church.

The Old University Buildings (PI. B, 2 ; Curia Lundensis), in
the Lundagard, the seat of the university founded by Charles XI.
in 1668, contain the valuable Library (PI. 2) and the Historical
Museum (PI. 3) , comprising the archaeological collections of Prof.
Nilsson. The New University Buildings (PI. 1) to the N.W., in the
Greek Renaissance style , were erected in 1878-82 after plans by
Helgo Zettervall. The university is now attended by about 800 stu-
dents. The Tower commands a fine view. With the university is
also connected the Zoological Museum (PI. B, 2, 3), where almost
all the Scandinavian vertebrate animals are represented , and the
Botanic Garden (PI. C, 2, 3), to the N. of the Lilla Torg, adjoined
by the Paradislycka with the District Hospital (Lanslasarett).

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Tegners-Plats, embellished
with a Statue of Esaias Tegner by Qvarnstrom. Here also is
situated the building of the Akademiska Fbrening (PI. 4 ; B, 2),
of which all the students are members, containing a reading-room
called the 'Athenaum' , a ball-room , and a restaurant. The last
is open to strangers. — Tegner's House, at the corner of the
Grabroder-Gata and Kloster-Gata (PI. B, 2, 3), is indicated by a
slab of stone with the inscription, 'Har bodde Esaias Tegner 1813-
26'. It was here that the poet composed his Frithjof, Gerda, and
other poems. His study is preserved in the same condition as dur-
ing his lifetime, and various memorials of him are shown. On
Oct. 4th the day on which the poet matriculated at the University,
the students assemble round his statue, and celebrate the day with
processions, songs, and speeches.

The traveller may walk through the promenades on the S. side
of the town, and ascend to the chapel in the Cemetery (PI. C, 2, 3)
on the E. side. This point commands a good survey of the fertile
province of Skane, with the Romeleklint in the background. To
the S E of the town is the Raby Raddnings Institut (PI. C, 4), a

25*

388 Route 53. HELSINGBORG.

charitable establishment founded by Gyllenkrook. Farther to the
N. rises the Helgonabacke ('saints' hill' ; PI. C, 1), whence we ob-
tain a view , to the W. (finest at sunset) , of the Sound, Malmo,
and the towers of Copenhagen.

Excursions. To Dalby , 11 Kil. to the S.E. , with a handsome old
church, containing a crypt with a well. To the Romeleklint (near BJoms-
lovp), 8 Kil. farther, commanding an uninterrupted view of the whole
province of Skane.

From Lund to Trelleborg, 43 Kil. (27 Engl 31.), railway in 2-2'/4 hrs.
(fares 2 kr. 60, 1 kr. 70 <>.). The district traversed is fertile but uninter-
esting to the tourist. Unimportant stations. At Svedala the line in-
tersects the Malmo and Ystad railway (p. 395). Trelleborg (Schweilz's
Hotel) is a small seaport and manufacturing town with 2300 inhabitants.
A railway to Malmo is being constructed (p. 395).

The train now traverses a very fertile district to the S. of Lund.
The large new buildings seen as we leave Lund are hospitals.
Near (6il Kil.) Akarp is the Agricultural Academy of Alnarp.
The train crosses the navigable Hojea , passes Arlof, and crosses
the Segea, beyond which it skirts the Sound for a short distance.

618 Kil. (383 M.) Malmo, see p. 393.

From Hessleholm to Helsingborg.

77 Kil. (48 Engl. M.). Railway in 2'/2-3 hrs. (fares 6 kr. 20, 4 kr. 65,
3 kr. 10 o. ; by the slower trains 5 kr. 40, 4 kr. 5, 2 kr. 70 6.).

Like most of the other branches of the great Swedish trunk-
line, this railway traverses a wooded district the greater part of
the way to Helsingborg. Near (42 Kil.) Klippan is a large paper-
manufactory. A little to the N.W. are the large estates of Bjers-
yard and Tomarp, and to the S.E. is the ancient and picturesque
Herrevadskloster, formerly a Cistercian monastery, now crown-
property, and used as barracks. At (47 Kil.) Qvidinge the crown-
prince Charles Augustus died suddenly on 28th May, 1810, to the
great disappointment and dismay of the whole nation as well
as of his father. A monument has been erected to his memory
near the station. The train now traverses extensive coal-measures,
recently discovered. From (54 Kil.) Astorp a branch-line diverges
to the S. to Landskrona (p. 385), and another to the N. to Engel-
holm (p. 289). From Bjuf a short branch-line diverges to the S.W.
to Billesholm, the centre of a coal-mining region. 72 Kil. Ram-
losabrunn, with mineral springs and baths. From (74 Kil.) Ram-
losa a line runs to the E. to Eslof on the main line (see p. 385).

77 Kil. (48 M.) Helsingborg (*H6tel a" Angleterre , in the Torg;
*Mollberg, also in the Torg, with a good restaurant, R. from li^kr. ;
Continental, Munthe, near the harbour, with restaurants and cafes ;
English vice-consul, Mr. Carl Westrup), a thriving town with
16,000 inhab., is beautifully situated on the Oresund or Sound,
which is here only about 2^2 Engl. M. wide. (Steamboat to Helsingor
several times daily in 20 min. ; others to Copenhagen, etc.) It is
one of the oldest towns in Skane, having formerly stood near the
Karnan tower, whence it was removed after a great Are to its

KARNAN. 63. Route. 389

present site in 1425. After many vicissitudes , the town came
into the possession of Sweden by the peace of 1658, but was again
occupied by the Danes in 1676 and 1677. In 1710 the Danes were
finally defeated in the neighbourhood by MSns Stenbock and his
gedepoger ('he-goats', so cailed from the furg wom ^ gwg_

dish peasants), a victory commemorated by a monument near the
windmill of Ringstorp A monument on the quay commemorates the
landing of Bernadotte (Charles XIV. John) on 20th Oct 1810 The
harbour is good for moderate-sized vessels, and there'are several
handsome modern buildings, but almost all traces of antiquity
have disappeared. The Railway Station, which is surrounded with
pleasure-grounds, lies at the S. end of the town, near the harbour

The finest point near Helsingborg, and 125 ft. above it, is the
tower of *Karnan (perhaps signifying 'churn', from its shape ; or
kernel , having formed the keep of a larger stronghold, of which
it is now the only relic). It rises in live stories to a height of
1U1 ft., and each side is 51 ft. broad, with walls 15 ft. thick
The *View hence is the finest on the Sound, particularly towards
sunset. A hundred or more vessels may be counted at one time.
Opposite the spectator lies Helsingor, with the Kronborg (immor-
talised by Shakspeare under the English form of Elsinore), and
Varielyst; to the S. is the island of Hven (see p. 386), and to the
N rises the granite promontory of Kullen. The key of the tower
(adm 10-O. a party 50 6.) is kept by the 'Vaktmastare', Langvin-
kels-Gatan 46 (the long street ascending the hill to the N. of the
tower, reached by turning to the left at the head of the Torg and
then taking the second side-street to the right).

A pleasant walk may be taken to the mineral spring of Helsan
to the N.E. of the town, and to the Sea-baths (with Russian and
Turkish baths) to the N. A little to the right is the long viaduct
of the Gothenburg railway (p. 294). — Among the pretty villas
and estates in the environs are Hamilton'. House, containing valu-
able collections, and Sofiero ('Sophia's' rest'), the property of
Queen Sophia, to the N.

„„„ Fr2m Hel3inSborg to Gothenburg, see R. 36; to Landskrona a.ni Eslnf,
see p. ooo. "

54. From Alfvesta to Karlskrona and Kalmar.

From Alfvesta to Vexio, 18 Kil. (11 Engl. M.), in »/, hr. (fares 1 kr 30 u
uoo.); irom Vexio to Karlskrona, 114 Kil. (71 M.), in 4'/2-5V2 hrs (8 kr 55'
4 kr. 30 6). — From Alfvesta to Emmaboda, 57 Kil. (35 ST.), in 2'/2 hrs •
from Emmaboda to Kalmar, 57 Kil. (35 M.), in 23/4 hrs. (4 kr. 30 2 kr. 15 0.1?

Alfvesta, see p. 383. This branch-railway traverses a wooded
district at first, enlivened here and there with the cottage of a
settler (backstugusittare), with its little patch of pasture (tofta,
grasgang), enclosed by the peculiar fences (gardesgard ,• with pieces
of wood placed obliquely between the upright stakes) common in
Norway and Sweden and sometimes seen among the Alps. These

390 Route 54. KARLSKRONA. From Alfvesta

independent settlers are distinct from the torpare (from torpa,
'cottage'), a cottager or hired labourer on an estate. — At (8 Kil.)
Oemla are several manufactories. 13 Kil. Rappe, on the Helgasjo,
at the point whence it drains into the Bergqvarasjo. To the S. of the
station, close to the latter lake, is the estate of Bergqvara, with a
picturesque ruined castle, which may also he visited from Vexiu.
A small steamer starting from Rappe plies on the Helgasjo and
the Rappe Canal, which connects that lake with the Toftasjo. In
the vicinity is the mineral spring of Evedal.

18 Kil. (11 M.) Vexio ( Nya Hotellet ; Odstgifvaregarden), the
capital of the Kronobergs-Lan, with 6200 inhab., has been rebuilt
on a wide and handsome plan since the fires of 1830 and 1840. The
principal edifice is the handsome Cathedral, dating from the year
1300, restored by Brunius. It contains the tomb of St. Siegfrid
(d. about 1030), the first promulgator of Christianity in this region.
The old gymnasium contains the Smalands Museum, a collection
composed of antiquities, a library, and a cabinet of coins. It is
adorned with a bust of Linnaeus, who went from Vexio to the uni-
versity of Lund. Visitors apply to the vaktmastare.

On a hill to the E. of the town, and connected with it by an
avenue, lies the episcopal residence of Ostrabo, once occupied by
Tegne'r the poet, who died here on 2nd Nov., 1846. He is buried
in the cemetery to the W. of the town, by the S. wall, where his
wife reposes by his side.

Pleasant excursion from Vexio to (5 Kil.) Evedal and the (8 Kil.) royal
chateau ofKronoberg on the Helgasjo (535 ft.), now occupied by the governor
of the district. The ruins of the once strong castle of Kronobtrg (which
has given the name to the surrounding Kronobergs-Lan), lies, overgrown
with beeches, on an island in the Helgasjo. — About 15 Kil. to the
S. of Vexio is the Inglinge Hog, an ancient tumulus commanding an
extensive view, and once a place of assize. At the top is a stone 7ft.
high, adjoining which is a smaller round stone (slenklot) with a neatly
executed pattern, supposed to have once been used in connection with
ancient sacrificial rites.

Leaving Vexio, the train traverses an interminable forest,
frequently relieved with lakes, and occasionally enlivened with
glass-works. — 57 Kil. Emmaboda is the junction of the Karls-
krona and Kalmar lines.

The Kaklskrona Line follows the valley of the Lyckebyu, to
the S. of Emmaboda , and then that of the Bubbetorpsa. At
Lyckeby, a prettily situated place, the train quits the mainland
and crosses several bridges and islands to —

114 Kil. (71 M.) Karlskrona (Storkallaren; Frimurarehuskiil-
laren; English vice-consul, Mr. A. Palander) , the headquarters of
the Swedish navy, a considerable town, with 19.500inhab., situated
on the Trossb and other islands. It is a comparatively modern
place, having been founded in 1680. Its only lion is the Dockyard
(Orlogsmirfoet) , to which, however, admission is rarely granted
without permission from the minister of war.

to Kalmar. KALMAR. 54. Route. 391

From Emmaboda the Kalmab. Line runs to the W., passing
(59 Kil.) Lindas and (73 Kil.) Orsjo. From (87 Kil.) Nybro a
branch-line diverges to the iron-works (Jembruk) of Safsjostrom.
99 Kil. (61 1/2 M.) Trekanten. The train now emerges from the
pine-forest and reaches a more smiling coast landscape , where
birches, oaks, and beeches make their appearance. In the distance
the island of Oland is visible (see p. 392). 106 Kil. Smedby.

114 Kil. (71 M.) Kalmar ( Witt's Hotel ; Central-Hotellet ; Hotel
Le Orand; English vice-consul, Mr. C. O. Soderbergh) , a very
ancient town with 12,000 inhab., situated partly on the mainland
and partly on two islands in the Kalmarsund, and famous in early
Swedish history as the scene of the conclusion of the Kalmar Union
(p. lviii), by which an attempt was made for the first time to unite
the three Scandinavian kingdoms.

The chief object of interest is the fine old *Castle, known as
the Kalmarnahus, a large quadrangular edifice, with towers, ram-
parts, and moats, on a small island connected by a causeway with
the mainland. It existed as early as the year 1200, was rebuilt
in 1337, enlarged after 1536, and restored and embellished by
John III. at the end of the 16th century. This venerable building
has undergone many vicissitudes. After having withstood eleven
sieges and been the frequent residence of kings and princes, it
was converted by Gustavus III. into a distillery, and a windmill
was even erected upon the highest tower. The Unions-Sal, the
largest room in the castle (where, however, the famous treaty was
not signed), was used by Gustavus IV. as a granary. It has,
however, been restored. Among the other rooms is Gamla Kongs-
gemaket ('old kings' apartment'), which was once occupied by
the ill-starred Eric XIV. The inlaid panelling in the deep -set
windows of this apartment has lately been restored and is very
fine. In the park is an iron monument commemorating Gustavus
"Vasa's return from Liibeck in May, 1520, when he first set foot
again on Swedish soil at Stens'6 , 3 Kil. to the S.W. of Kalmar.
A Latin inscription here is by Louis XVIII., who visited Sweden
in 1804 during his exile.

The *Cathedral, designed by Tessin, was built in stone from
the quarries of Oland in 1660-99. It stands on the island of Qvarn-
holmen, in the middle of the town. To the S. lies the Railway
Station.

To the N. of the town is (3 Kil.) Skalby, with a fine park.
About 20 Kil. to the S. are the curious round churches oiHagby and
Voxtorp (resembling that of Solna near Stockholm, p. 346), and
still farther the famous Bromsebro, or bridge over the Bromsebdck.
which once formed the boundary between Swedish and Danish
territory. On a small island in the stream are the Bromsestenar,
which are said once to have marked the frontier. By the Peace of
Bromsebro in 1645 Sweden recovered her independence and the

392 Route 54. ISLAND OF OLAND.

natural coast-frontier formed by the Baltic , the Sound , and the
Kattegat.

From Kalmar we may cross to the Island of Oland. which, though
rarely visited by tourists , presents some features of geological interest.
It is 150 Kil. (90 Engl. M.) long and 3-15 Kil. (2-9 M.) in breadth. Owing
to its considerable size (about 533 Engl. sq. M.J, it is dignified, like Got-
land, with the termination 'Land'. The old name was Wulfstans Eya-
land. It contains 38,000 inhab., whose pursuits are chiefly agricultural,
and it once boasted of a famous breed of horses, now nearly extinct.
The dwelling-houses (manbygnader) are usually constructed of wood,
and the farm-buildings (uthus) of stone. The roofs are adorned with
snakes' and horses' heads carved in wood. The fields are separated by
massive stone walls. Among the other resources of the island are large
quarries of limestone and a quarry of alum-slate near Mockleby.

Oland does not present the usual Swedish geological features of granite
and gneiss, covered with lakes and forests, but like Gotland consists
mainly of a limestone plateau of the Silurian formation, and is wooded
in a few places only. The plateau, originally formed under the sea, rises
abruptly from the water in the southern half of the island, but slopes
gently down to the sandy E. coast. Between the cliffs (landtborgar) and
the sea extends a plain covered for the most part by arable land and
woods. In the centre of the island rises a bleak and arid tract of reddish
limestone soil, called the Allvar, scored here and there with deep furrows,
and somewhat resembling the deserts of Africa. The scanty vegetation
here consists of a hard kind of grass (fesluca), on which the sheep graze,
while the rich plains, with their groves of oaks, limes, and birches, are
enlivened with the song of the nightingale (kledra). The villages with
their interesting churches (among which that of Albbke in the Norra Motet
deserves mention) are generally situated either in the plain or between it
and the 'landtborgar' , while the latter are crowned with windmills,
twenty of which may sometimes be counted in a row. In the northern
half of the island there are no 'landtborgar', but the coast is covered
with sandy downs , particularly at Orankulla in the parish of Biida. A
large round stone at Folkslunda, called the Runstenskyrka, marks the centre
of the island. Geologists should notice the numerous rock-formations
resembling ships, with prow, stern, masts, and benches for rowers. The
finest of these Skeppsformar is 'Noah's Ark' at Hbgsrum, near Stora Rbr (Inn).
Other curious formations, resembling ruined castles, are called Borgruiner,
the finest of which are the Ismanstorp and the Vipetorp, also near Stora
Ittir. Countless tumuli form another object of interest.

The capital of the island is Borgholm ( Victoria ; Stads - Hotellel) , a
small town and watering-place with 900 inhab., whence steamers ply daily
to Kalmar. It owes its sole interest to its imposing ruined Castle, men-
tioned in history for the first time in 1280, after which it underwent re-
peated sieges. About 20 Engl. M. to the S. of Borgholm lies Farjestaden
(Inn), directly opposite Kalmar, to which a ferry plies frequently. The
width of the strait here is about 4 Engl. M. — Near Mockleby, at the S.
fnd of the island, considerable quantities of alum are found.

The classical authority regarding Oland is LinnPs 'Olandska och
Gothlandska Resa' (1741 ; Stockholm, 1745). MarryaVs 'One Year in Swe-
den' (London, 1862) is also an interesting work.

From Oskarshamn to Nassjo.

Travellers who do not wish to return from Kalmar to Vexio and
Alfvesta may proceed by steamer to Oskarshamn (5 hrs., 2-3 times
weekly), whence a railway runs to Nassjo.

Oskarshamn (Hotel Oscar; Stads-Hotellet ; Jernvcigs-Hotellet;
English vice-consul), a town with 5600 inhab., was formerly called
Doderhultsvik , but received its present name and its municipal

MALMO. 55. Route. 393

privileges in 1856. Several iron-works and manufactories, in-
cluding a land sticks fabrik.

Railway from Oskarshamn to Nassjo, 148 Kil. (92 Engl. M.),
in 6 hrs. (fares 9 kr. 85, 5 kr. 55 6\). — The line traverses a
•wooded district, presenting little attraction. Several unimportant
stations.

65 Kil. (401/2 M.) Hultsfred , the junction of branch-lines to
Storebro and Vimmerby (21 Kil.), two small manufacturing towns,
and to Ankarsrum (with iron-works) and (70 Kil.) Vestervik (see
p. 309). — Near Marianelund are the estate and church of Hessleby.

127 Kil. (79 M.) Eksjo (Stadshuset; Jemvags-Hotellet), a town
with 3100 inhab., near which is a curious Skurugata, a ravine
125 ft. deep and 20 ft. wide, penetrating a rocky hill for nearly
2 Engl. M.

150 Kil. (93 Engl. M.) Nassjo, see p. 306.

55. Malmo and its Environs.

Arrival. Railway Station (Sodra Stambana, E. 53), near the Steam-
boat Quay. On the latter is the Nya Tullhus (PI. 7 ; B, 2), or custom-house,
where the luggage of passengers arriving from Copenhagen is examined.

— Cab from quay to station 1 kr., porter ('Barare') 30-50 o. — Travellers
entering Sweden here should at once buy the latest number of 'Sveriges
Kommunikationer' (10 6.). — Steamboats (besides the coasting vessels to
Stockholm, Gothenburg, etc.) to Copenhagen (16 Engl. M.) 4-5 times daily
in lVs-l3/* hr. (ii/j, 1 kr.); to Stralsund; to Liibeck five times weekly in
16-18 hrs. Others touch here on their way to London, Amsterdam, Bor-
deaux, etc.

Hotels. "Kramer's Hotel, in the Stor-Torg (PI. B, 2); *Hotkl Horn
(formerly Svea), near the quay and the railway-station; Stockholm;
Danmark.

Restaurants at the hotels. — Cafes: O. Baude, Hamn-Gatan ; Fru Brotsn,
Sbder-Gatan; Cafe1 in the Rung Oscars Park (p. 395), a favourite resort.

— Money exchanged by Mr. T. Flensburg, the British vice-consul, and at
Kjbbenhamns Lanebank.

Sea Baths on the N. side of the harbour.

Malmo, a busy and thriving seaport, the capital of the fertile
province of Skane, with 45,100 inhab., is situated on the Sound,
opposite to Copenhagen (16 Engl. M. distant), in a flat and uninter-
esting district. It is now the third town in Sweden in point of
population and importance, and possesses a considerable com-
mercial fleet and a number of manufactories (including several
from which the well-known Swedish gloves are largely exported).

In the middle ages Malmo was the chief commercial town on
the Sound, especially during the Hanseatic period. Its prosperity
was mainly due to the productive herring-fishery, which attracted
merchants from all parts of the Baltic. It is mentioned for the first
time in 1259, but it lay at that time in the Vestervang, now the
suburb of Sodervarn, while the site of the modern town was then
occupied by the fishing village of Svalperup. During the che-
quered reign of Christian II. of Denmark (1513-23) Malmo em-

394 Route 55. MALMO.

braced the cause of that monarch, the burghers being headed by
their spirited burgomaster J'urgen Kock , who once occupied the
Kockumska Hits (see below). In the 16th and 17th cent, the pro-
sperity of the town declined , partly owing to the failure of the
herring-fishery, and partly to the growing importance of Copen-
hagen. The peace of Roeskilde, which restored Skane to Sweden
in 1658, farther accelerated the decay of the place, and at the end
of the 17th cent, it contained 2000 inhab. only. At length, about
a century later (1775-78) , Frans Suell , a wealthy and public-
spirited merchant of Malmo, laid the foundation of the modern
prosperity of his native place by constructing a harbour, which has
since been repeatedly extended and deepened.

The Harbour is on the N.W. side of the town, with long piers to
prevent it from being choked up with sand. The Hamn-Oata leads
thence in a straight direction to the Malmohus (PI. A, 2, 3), a
fortress at the S.W. end of the town. In its present form it dates
from 1537, and is architecturally interesting. It is now used as
a prison. Bothwell, Queen Mary Stuart's third husband, was im-
prisoned here in 1573-78, but the vaulted dungeon in which he
was confined is now walled up. He died on 14th April, 1578, in the
chateau of Dragsholm in Zealand, and was interred in the church
of Faarveille.

The Petri Kyrka (PI. 5; B, 2), near the Stor-Torg, founded in
1319, and tastefully restored by Brunius in 1847-53, is one of the
finest Gothic churches in S. Sweden.

The Tyska Kyrka (PI. 6 ; C, 2) contains an interesting life-size
portrait of Luther, with a swan and the hexameter: 'Pestis eram
vivens, moriens ero mors tua, papa1. — The Roman Catholic Church
(PI. 4 ; B, 3) is a handsome new edifice in the Gustaf Adolf s Tory,
to the S. of the Stor-Torg.

The *Rauhus (PI. 8 ; B, 2), or town-hall, in the spacious Stor-
Torg, is a handsome Renaissance edifice, resembling those in several
of the Danish and Hanseatic towns. The facades are in brick, and
the copings and five figures in niches on the roof in sandstone.
Handsome oriel window in the centre. The inscription records the
dates of the foundation, extension, and restoration of the building.
The handsome Knutssal in the interior was once the council-cham-
ber of the powerful Knutsyille ('Guild of Canute'). The Lnnds-
tingssaal is also noteworthy. — In the Stor-Torg is also situated the
residence of the Landshofding, or governor of the province, which
contains the room (shown to visitors) where Charles XV., the pop-
ular predecessor of Oscar II., died on 18th Sept., 1872, when on
his way back from Aix-la-Chapelle to Stockholm. The most inter-
esting relic of mediaeval domestic architecture is the Kockumska
Hus, in the Frans-Suells-Gata, erected in the 15th cent., and once
occupied by Kock, the warlike burgomaster, and Suell, the enter-
prising merchant and benefactor of the town.

YSTAD. 55. Route. 395

Pleasant walks on the S. and E. sides of the town, the most
attractive of which is the Kung Oscar's Park, between the Malmo-
hus and the town (cafe, with frequent concerts). To the S.W. of
the town lies the shady Cemetery (PI. B, 3) and to the E. of that
the new suburb of Borsj'6 (PI. C, 3), with the Pauli Kyrka.

About 30 Kil. (I8V2 Engl. M.) to the S. of Malmo He the two ancient
little towns of Falsterbo and Skandr, situated 2 Engl. M. apart on a long
sandy promontory. The inhabitants earn a scanty subsistence by fishing
and tilling the poor sandy soil, but many of them g» to sea and are con-
sidered the best sailors in this part of Sweden. Many centuries ago the
herring-fishery in this neighbourhood was very profitable, and the 'Fair of
Skanor', which was held at the 'Falsterboda' attracted merchants from all
parts of N. Europe between July and November. With the falling off of
the herring-fishery, the prosperity of these towns declined, and in 1631 a
storm choked their harbour ('Flommen') and half buried the houses with
sand. The united population is about 1000.

The Church of Falsterbo , now deeply imbedded in sand , is said to
be the most ancient in Skane, and is still visited by pilgrims, parti-
cularly on St. John's Day. The Castle Hill commands a view of the
lighthouse (Falsterbo Fyr), the light-ship on the dangerous Falsterbo Riff
('reef'), the island of Makldppen with its countless gulls, and farther
distant the chalk-island of Moen.

The Church of Skanor, another venerable edifice, has a crypt under
the choir like the churches of Lund and Dalby (pp. 387, 388). The fine
old font is embellished with the figures of twenty kings. The Castle Hill
here commands an extensive view , extending in clear weather across
the Sound as far as Stevens Klint, a cliff on the Danish coast.

Railway from Malmo to Ystad, 63 Kil. (39!/2Engl. M.), in2'/2
-3!/2 hrs. (fares 4,/2) 2^4 kr.). — The train traverses the fertile pro-
vince of Skane, where extensive corn-fields and beautiful groves
of beeches contrast pleasantly with the dreary regions farther to
the N., while white churches and country-seats of the Swedish
noblesse are seen at frequent intervals. About 5 Kil. to the N. of
(16 Kil.) Skabersjo is the beautiful mansion of Torup, which forms
an interesting object for an afternoon's drive from Malmo. At
(21 Kil.) Svedala the line is crossed by the branch-line from Lund
to Trelleborg (p. 388). Near (29 Kil.) Borringe is the chateau of
that name, formerly a nunnery. In the neighbourhood of (39 Kil.)
Skurup is Svaneholm on an island in the Svanesjci, once the pro-
perty of Roger Maclean , a distinguished farmer and promoter
of national education. The following stations are named after the
extensive estates and mansions near them.

63 Kil. (391/2 Engl. M.) Ystad (Hotel du Sud; Hotel du Nord;
English vice-consul, Mr. H. NUsson), a busy seaport with 7800 in-
hab., mentioned in history as early as the 13th century. To a
Franciscan monastery, founded here in 1267, once belonged the
Petri Kyrka, which is now modernised. The Varfru-Kyrka also
dates from the 13th century. Down to 1658 the town belonged to
Denmark. Besides the coasting steamers from Stockholm to Malmii,
Copenhagen, and Gothenburg, others ply to Stettin, Liibeok, and
Bergen, and there are several small local steamboats.

396 Route 55. BORNHOLM.

The steamer plying between Copenhagen and the island of Bornholm
(every evening except Sun. ; fares 8'/z, 4>/2 kr.) touches at Ystad on Wed.
and Sat. night. Bornholm belongs to Denmark, and lies about GO Kil.
&V/2 Engl. M.) to the S.E. of the Swedish mainland (3 hrs. from Ystad.).
It is about 230 Engl. sq. M. in area, and contains 35,000 inhab., whose
chief resources are agriculture and the digging of the porcelain-clay used
in the famous manufactories of Copenhagen. Ronne, the capital, lies on
the W. coast. The island is rocky and mountainous. The hill called Ritter-
knwgten and the Echodal in the interior are worthy of a visit. Between
Svanele and Allinge on the N. coast are a number of picturesque and im-
posing cliffs, including Randkloveskaaret , ffelligdomsklippeme, Gaaseren-
den, Vaade Ovn, and Torre Ovn. The northernmost promontory is called
Hammeren, near which lies the ruin of Hammershuus.

Railway from Ystad to Eslop , 76 Kil. (471//2 Engl. M.), in
3^2 hrs. (fares 5 kr. 40, 2 kr. 70 o.). The line intersects a number
of the extensive estates of Skane. 11 Kil. Svenslorp.

From (19 Kil.) Tomelilla a branch-line (27 Kil. in VfahT.;
fares 2 kr. 10, 1 kr. 10 o.) runs to the little seaport of Clmbrh-
hamn or Simrishamn (about 2000 inhab. ; Hotel Simrishamn, Svea).
A little to the S.W. of Cimbrishamn is the Glimmingehus , an an-
cient baronial fortified 'chateau', and a little to the N. is the fish-
ing village of Kivik, where there is a curious old monument, pro-
nounced by Prof. Nilsson to be Phoenician.

27 Kil. Esperod; 32 Kil. L'ofyestad ; 41 Kil. VollsjG. To the
S. of (48 Kil.) Bjersjolagard is Ofveds-Kloster, a picturesque and
handsome chateau on the Vombsjo, belonging to one of the largest
estates in Skane, and formerly a wealthy monastery. — 60 Kil.
LiJberod. Between (65 Kil.) Hurtva and (71 Kil.) Christineberg the
train passes the chateau of Skarhult, built in 1 562 and recently re-
stored by Brunius, and containing a picture-gallery of some value.
76 Kil. (471/a M.) Esliif, see p. 385.

INDEX.

The Swedish vowel a and the Norwegian w , as well as the Swedish
a must be looked for after the letter a, the Swedish o and the Norwegian
0 after the letter o.

Aaberge 113.
Aabergsbygd 93.
Aabergselv 93.
Aaboelv 65.
Aabogen 275.
Aabtfdal 49.

Aabrekke, Gaards 103.
Aadal, Store 140.
— , Vesle 140. 136.
Aadalen (Lake Spirillen)

89.
Aadalsbrug 212.
Aadalselv 89. 143.
Aadland 58.
Aadlandsfjord 53.
Aaen 65.
Aafjeldfos 186.
Aafjord 117. 166.
Aagottind 204.
Aahjem 168. 170. 172.
Aak, Gaard 199.
Aaken 99.
Aakernsesfjeld 187.
Aaklangen 32.
Aakre 52. 41.
Aakrefjord 52. 55.
Aal 86.
Aalbu 209.
Aalefjord 52.
Aalen 214.
Aalesund 171. 169.
Aalesundsaxel 172.
Aalfotenfjord 168.
Aalhusbygd 181.
Aalvik 58.
Aambo, Gaard 175.
Aamdal 175.
Aamlid 34.
Aamot (Bredheimsvand)

182.

— (on the Drammenselv)
18.

— (Leirdal) 149.

— (Ottadal) 162.

— (0sterdalen) 213.
Aamotbrse 182.

Aamotsdal 27.
Aamotselv 209.
Aaning 190.
Aanstad 162. 125. 127
Aarbotstind 251.
Aardal (Jjrtstervand) 182.

— (Sognefjord) 101.

— (near Stavanger) 47.
Aardalselv 101. 181.
Aardalsfjord (Sognefjord)

101.

— (near Stavanger) 47.
Aardalstangen 101.
Aardalsvand (Ssetersdal)

41.

— (Sognefjord) 101.
Aard0la 96. 102. 139.
Aareberge 179.
Aare-Sseter 102.
Aareviksdal 169.
Aarheimsfield 184. 189

190.
Aarlivold 206. 210.
Aarnees 275.
Aarcr 258.
Aarsbodtind 251.
Aarsethorn 175.
Aartun 49.
Aas 276.

Aasbakke 237. 241.
Aasdal 62.
Aaae, Gaard 65.
Aasen (NordmUre) 206.

— (near Sandefjord) 32.
— , Gaard (Simodal) 62.

— (Eikisdal) 203.

— (Jostedal) 107.
Aasenfjeld 181.
Aaseng 129.
Aasensseter 163.
Aaser (Christiania) 14.
Aasgaardstrand 37.
Aashammeren 204.
Aasoren 123. 129.
Aaspelifjeld 165.
Aasta 212.

Aasvfer 236.
Aavatnsvand 233.
Aavestrud 83.
Aaxlen 81. 111.
Adelsti 350.
Adolfsberg 314.
Afdalsfos 102.
Afsj0 208.
Aga 64.

Agershus, see Akershus.
Aker 212.
Akerselv 3. 4.
Akershougen 34.
Akershus 5.
Akersvik 119. 212.
Akkasolsi 258.
Akso-Javre 272.
Alap 252.
Alatajokki 272.
St. Alban, Monastery 169.
Albano 345.
Albbke 392.
Albrektssund 283.
Alby 370.
Alden 166.
Alderen 238.
Aldern, Lake 370.
Alfarnses 198.
Alfstad 25.
Alfsvaag 249.
Alfvesta 383.
Algas-Varre 266.
Algjelfjeld 184.
Alingsas 294.
Allinge 396.
Allmandbjerg 209.
Allvar 392.
Alio 384.

Almare-Stiiket 356.
Almedal 288.
Almenningen 232.
Almindingen 237. 242.
Almklov 170.
Almklovdal 170.
Almvik 309.
Alnarp 388.

398

INDEX.

Alnas-N.jarg 257. 258.
Alnfes 21)0.
Alaensjo 371.
Alsike 358.
Alsmo 105. 106.
Alstahoug 235.
Alsten 235.
Alsvaag 249. 247.
Alteidet 257.
Altenelv 258. 271.
Altenfjord 258. 271.
Alten Fogderi 257.
Altengaard 258. 271.
AHenhus 258.
Altenvand 252.
Alterhpi 201.
Alvastra 301. 307.
Alverstrjjmmen 117.
Amble 109. 112.
— , Bay of 109. 112.
Amblegaard 112.
Amdam 188.
Anarjokk 272.
Andorier 250.
Ander '249.
Andvord 130.
Aneby 307.

An?edal (Fgfrde) 180. 181.
— (.Tarlsberg) 31.
Angelstad 383.
Angerklev 59.
Angsnses 269.
Angvik 206. 173.
Ankarsruin 309. 392.
Anneberg 2SS.
Anneklef 385.
Anskaret 224.
An-Udde 301.
Apald 65.
Apalst.0 35.
Apelsviksberg 288.
Apelvser 233.
Arbnga 314.
ArbogaS.314.
Arbra 370.
Arctic Circle 238.
Areniarks-S.ji) 2:S0.
Arendal 38.
Arin^sas 383.
Arlot' 388.
Arne 78.
Arnefjord 116.
Arncvaag 78.
Arnef (Lyngentjord) 256.
Arni?rer (near Kunnen)239.
Arrebuvand 29.
Arstad 239. 241.
Arstadal 239.
Arvidsvik 283.
Arvika 311.
Asarum 384.
Asarumsdal 384.
Asbjurnnaase 106.

Ask 18.

Askelihciug 19.
Asker 16.

Aakersund 307. 299.
Askim 270.
Ask«ren 78.
Asktffjeld 70.
Askrike Fjiirden 352
Asmundtorp 385.
Aspedammen 280.
Aspen, Lilla and Stora 365-
Aspen, Lake 294.
Aspern 280.
Asplangen, Lake 305.
AsP0 171. 172.
Atlas 346. 316.
Atle0 167.
Atna 122. 213.
Atnebro 213.
Atnedal 213.
Atneelv 122. 213.
Atnesju 213.
Atne-Vand 122. 208.
Auerfjord 251.
Auflemsfjeld 184. 189. 191.
Augsburgnibba 193.
Augunshaug 83.
Augvaldsnees 51.
Auma 214.
Aune (Opdal) 209.
Auraelv 127. 205.
Aurdal, Nordre 93.
— , Sj»ndre 90.
Aurdalsfjord 93.
Aure 172. 188. 177
Aurelv 162.
Aurestupene 205.
Aurland (SognefjordJ 111
— (Fjeldbygd , in the

Nestb0dal) 87.
Aurlandsfjord 109.
Aurlandsvand 111.
Aurlandsvangen 111.
Aursjer 127. 162.
Aurstaupa 205.
Aursund Sj0 215. 214.
Austabottinder 102. 159.

160.
Austbjerg 210. 214.
Austdal, seeJ0verste Dal.
Austesyn 58.
Avasaxa 274. 377.
A vesta 370. 363.
Axenaes 57.
Axevalla, heath 295
Ax vail 295.
JEnees 56.
^ri 99.
^Evelsbra; 204.
Atraa 289.
|by 310.
Ahus 384.
Akarp 388.

Aker 351. 358.
Akersberg 292.
Akersstrom 292.
Akersvass 292. 291.
Akerssjo 292.
AklSngen, Lake 280.
Aland 369.
Alleberg 295.
Alsatra 365.

Amanningen, Lake 365.
Amal 364.
Amot 311.
Ange 370. 372.
Angermanelf 373.
Angermanland 374.
Animskog 364.
Ann 372.
Are 372.
Aresjo 372.
Areskutan 372.
Arnas 288.
Arstavik 298.
Asa 288.
Asbro 307.
Ashammar 370.
Asjo 371.
Askloster 288.
Asnen, Lake 384.
Astorp 385. 289.
Asunden, Lake 298. 308.
Atvidaberg 309. 367.

Baadsfjord 266.
Backa 288.
Baggensfjarden 353.
Baggetorp 297.
Bagnaelv 60.
Bak 206. 210.
Bakka i Nissedal 34.
Bakke (Hardangerfiord)
57.

— (Nferofjord) 110.

— (Ottadal) 127.
Bakkeberg 148.
Bakkeelv 110.
Bakkefus 107.
Bakkehaug 252.
Bakken 23.
Baklandet 218. 221.
Baksundholm 241.
Bak Yri 193.
Balangen 250.
Baldersmis 280.
Balestrand 115.
Balholmen 115.
Balingslof 384.
Balonefjeld 59. 60.
Balsfjord 253. 252.

INDEX.

399

Balstad 247. 248.
Baltic Sea 352. etc.
Balvand 243.
Bamle 22.
Bandakslid 35.
Bandaks0 35.
Bandaksvand 35.
Bang 90. 93.
Bangaund 224.
Bankeberg 307.
Bankeryd 298.
Barby 282.
Bardlingbo 382.
Bardudal 251.
Bardufoa 252.
Barkaker 31.
Barkakra 289.
Barkald 213.
Barken, Norra and Siidra

365.
Barm0 169.
Barah0gda 112.
Barnhusvik 346.
Baranseafjord 104.
Battenfjord 206.
Battenfjords0ren 206.
Bseckefors 281.
Bsegna-Elv 18. 89. 90. etc.
Bcegnadal 93.
Bsekkelaget 276.
Bserrast0len 62.
Bseverdal 148.
Bseverkjsern 149.
Basverkjaernhals 149.
Bseverkjsernaseter 158.
Bsevertunsfeter 149.
Beevertunvand 149.
Bsevra 130. 149.
Bsevradal 130.
Balsta 316.
Bangbro 314.
Banghammar 314.
Bararp 289.
Barekulle 290.
Bastad 289.
Beckaskog 384.
Beian 174. 206. 232.
Beierendal 237. 243.
Beierenfjord 240.
Beierens Kirke 239. 241.
Beisfjord 250.
Beiteln 109.
Beito 135.
Beitstadfjord 224.
Beljek 267.
Bengtfora 280.
Bennses 193.
Benajordtind 253.
Berakvamagjel 111.
Berangsfjord 239.
Berdal 102.
Berdle 167.
Berg (Gota Canal) 304.

Berg (near Fredrikshald)

278.
Berge i Brunkeberg 28.

— fErdal) 191.

— (Fjsrlandsfjord) 114

— (Fortundal) 159.
Berge (Sundalafjord) 173.

— (Totakvand) 24.
Bergedal 114.
Bergedals-Blv 50.
Bergellot 65.
Kergeland 47.
Bergemsvand 183.
Bergen 69.
Bergenhus 73.
Berghulnaes 237. 243.
Bergqvara 390.
Bergqvarasjo 390.
Bergsbrunna 355.
Bergsdal 181. 159.
Bergsfjord 258.
Bergslags Grangeaberg

365.

— Horken 365.

— Stalldalen 365.
Bergstad 190. 166.
Bergsund, Gaard 89.
Berlevaag 266.
Bersbo 309.
Besaker 232.
Besegg 142.

Beshcr 140. 136.
Beskadosfjeld 272.
Bessa 142.
Bessabu 24.
Bessaelv 24.
Bessseter 129. 142.
Besatrandaseter 129. 142.
Beavand 142.
Bettna 354.
Billeberga 385.
Billesholm 385.
Billlngen, Sseter 163.
— , Lake 295.
Billingsdal 162.
Billingsfors 280.
Bindalen 233.
Bindalsfjord 233.
Biri 120.
Birka 350.
Birkedal 171.
Birkedalen 32.
Birkeland 58. 78.
Birkelanadalen 49.
Biskopen 265.
Biskopen , Prsesten , og

Klokkeren 68.
Bispberg 370.
Biapevei 35. 41.
Bitdalaelv 24.
Bitteratad 247.
Bitihorn 135.
Bjfeldaadal 237. /

Bjteldaanpea 236.

Bjeeldaavand, Nedre and
0vve 237.

Bjergea 382.

Bjerkaker 210.

Bjerke 175. 185.

Bjeragard 388.

Bjers.jblagard 396.

B.jordal 116.

Bj0berg 85.

B,jf*llstig 88.

Bjeflstad 123. 129.

Bj0raansesset 213.

Bjordal 175.

Bj0rd0la 96.

B.j0reia 26. 6t.

Bj0reimvand 47.

Bjerrga 182.

— , Store 234.

Bj0rgdal 186.

Bj«rrge0ren 234.

Bjtfrgen 215.

Bjorkberg 368.

Bjorkholm 376.

Bjorko 350. .

Bj0rktind 204.

Bjornaa 236.

Bj0rnbratberg 89.

Bjorneborg 313.

Bj0rnebykset 64.

Bj0rnefjord 53.

Bj0rneklev 201.

Bjcrrneraa 41.

Bj0rnestegadn-S;eter 108.

Bj0rnestegbrse 108.

Bjtfrnhull 213.

Bjdrnhyttan 314.

Bjcirnlunda 297.

Bj0rn-Marknadplads 236.

Bj0rnatad 129.

Bj0rnstifjeld 177.

Bjornstnrp 385.

Bj0r0 232.

Bjorsiiter 309.

Bj0rs!5tfjeld 181.

Bj0rviken 36.

Bjuf 388.

Bjuraa 236.

Blaafjeld (Nebbedal) 177.

Blaatlaten 99.

Blaahorn 164. 176.

Blaah0er 208.

Blaamanden (near Ber-
gen) 70.

— (Kval0) 254.
Blaa3kavl 111.
Blakjer 275.

Blsesevoldbakken221 .218.
Blfeaterdalen 213.
Bleie 57. 64.
Bleifjeld 21.

Blejan (Dalafjord) 167.

— (Sognefjord) 112. 109.

400

INDEX.

Blekinge 384.
Blekef 36.
Blomberg 296.
Blyberg 221.
Bod 172.
Boda 311.
Bodalselv 201.
Bodarne 296.
Bodfjeld 172.
Bodlenakken 101.
Bod0 239.
Buen 40.
Bofos 99.
Bogen 250.
Bogge 203.
Bog0 244. 250.
Bogstadvand 11.
Bonus 290.
Bohuslan 281. 290.
Boijarvik 282.
Bojuuisbree 114.
Bokeniis 283.
Bolgen i Bremsnsea 206.
Bolhtfvde 87.
Bolkesjtf 21.
Bollnas 370.
Bolmen 383.
Bolmsjo 384.
Bolsset-Vand 182.
Bolso 198. 203.
Bolstad 79.
— , Sreter 105.
Bolstadfjord 79.
Bona-s Pass 236.
Bonaset 371.
Bonddal 175.
Bonddalsnut 56.
Bondhus 56.
Bondhusbrre 56.
Bondhusvand 56.
Bnndivand 16.
Boras 294. 288.
Boren, Lake 304.
Borenshult 304.
Borgafjeld 61.
Borgasund 353.
Borgenfjord 223.
Borgevser 247.
Borghamn 301.
Borgholm 392.
Borgstena 294.
Borgund (Lserdal) 97.
— (near Aalesund) 172.
Boris-Gleb 270.
Borlange 366. 370.
Bornholm 396.
Bor«r 34. 38. 206.
Borre 31.
Borrentfs 95. 96.
Borrevand 31.
Bosjokloster 385.
Bossekop 258.
Botnen (Fiksensund) 58.

Botnet, Gaard 235.

Botnfjord 249.

Botten i Grungedal 29.

— (R/aldalsvand) 49. 23.
Bottensjo 296.
Bottnjuvkamb 102.
Boxholm 307.

B0 247.
Boda 392.
B0dal 192.
Bjadalsbrse 192.
B0dalsfjeld 191.
Btfdalssseter 192.
Beren 27.
B0fjord 117. 180.
Btfgeskog 32.
Bffgfjord 270.
B0lsfet 206.
B0mmelfjbrd 52. 53.
B0mmel0 52.
Biinan 364.
Berrfjeld 205.
Borhul 104.
Btfrlaug 85. 97.
B0r0sund 249.
Bbrringe 395.
B0rsvatnstinder 240. 241.
B0rtnres 83.
BUrven 64.
Btfrvenut 64.
Bragernses 17.
Bragernsesaas 17.
Bragei-0 16.
Brahehus 300.
Brakenses 59. 60.
Brandposten (Drammen)

17.
Brandstad 173.
Brandvold 252.
Brasfjeld 270.
Brastad 281.
Brat0 278.
Brattfren 217.
Bratsbergklev 33.
Brattifjeld 252.
Bracke 371.
Braekeg 185.
Brsekke(Strynsvand) 190.

— (Sognefjord) 117.

— (Vossestranden) 111.
Brtekkefjeld 190. 166.
Brfekstad 206.
Brsenden, Gaard 213.
Bi-sendhougen 124.
Breendhovd 101.
Bramdsdal 193.
Brannarp 289.
Brseskard 138.
Bralanda 364.
Bravalla Heath 383.
Bravik 309.
Bredevangen 123.
Bredfond 67.

Bredheim 182.
Bredheimsdal 183.
Bredheimsvand 182.
Brediksfjeld 237.
Brednses 109.
Bredsjo (Sweden) 365.
Bredsj0 (Gudbrandsdal)

128.
Bredstrand 249. 247.
Bredsund 171. 174.
Bredvand 45.
Bredvik 203.
Breidablik 18.
Breidalseggen 164.
Breidalsvand 163.
Breie 86.
Breikvam 102.
Breilaupa 186. 143.
Breinses 109.
Breist0len 85.
Breive 41.
Breivik 41.
Brejmaas 16.
Bremanger 167.
Bremsnres 206.
Brengsnsessseter 191.
Brettesnsea 248. 247.
Breumsvand 182.
Brevik 38.
Brigsdal, Gaard 194.
— , Glacier of 194.
Brigsdalselv 194.
Brinkebergskulle 292.
Bro 316.
Broddbo 369.
Broddenfjeld 251.
Broddetorp 295.
Brokind 308.
Brotedal 162.
Brcimseback 391.
Bromsebro 391.
Br0n0 234.
Br0n0sund 234.
Br0sterud 25.
Br0ttun 222.
Brudvik 79.
Brudef0]ge 136.
Bruilat 93.
Bruksholm 310.
Bruland 181. 183.
Brulandsfos 181.
Brummavand 83.
Brunelid 24.
Brunflo 371.
Brunbemsberg 295.
Brunkeberg 28.
Brunlaag 121.
Brunnback 369.
Brunneby 304.
Brunnsviken 347.
Brunsberg 311.
Brunstad, Gaard 177.
Brurskanke 235.

INDEX.

401

Brurskardknatte 143.
Brusesseter 97.
Brustind 189.
Bryggen 168.
Bryn 118.
Bu, Gaard 61.
Buar, Gaard 66.
Buarbrse 66.
Bubbetorpsa 390.
Bud 172.
Buene 109.
Bug0fjord 270.
Bugpnses 269.
Bugiernaesfjeld 270.
Bukkehul 145.
Bukkelseger 140.
Bukken 53.
Bukkenfjord 51. 44.
Bukkeno 51.
Buksren 34.
Bulken 79.
Bullaresjoarne 282.
Bundefjord 36. 276.
Burderaas 16.
Burud 18.
Buskerudsamt 89.
Buskrednaase 105.
Bussesund 267.
Bustetun i Odde 65.
Butle 382.
By 207.
Byelv 364.

Bvfjord (near Bergen) 70.
— (near Uddevalla) 293.
Bygdarelv 61.
Bygdeelv 104.
Bygdin, Lake 136. 90.
Bygdinsund 136.
Bygdp 11. 14.
Byglandsfjord 41.
Bykle 41.
Byna 210.
By-Sjci 311.
Byvalla 370.

9acce-Suollo 267.
Cattegat 290.
Ceciliekrone 193.
Charlottenberg 275.
Christiania 1.

Akershus 5.

Ankerlflkkens Grav-
lund 5.

AntiquHies,Northern7.

Art Union 9.

Art-lndnstrial Museum
9.

Atheneeum 2. 6.

Banks 2. 5.

Baths 2. 4. 5.

Bazaar 4.

Bjarvik 4.

Boats 3.
Baedeker's Norway

Christiania :

Booksellers 2.

Botanic Garden 7

Brandvagt 4.

Byret 4.

Cabs 1.

Cafes 1.

Charles XlV.'s Statue
10.

Christian IV.'s Sta-
tue 4.

Coins, Cabinet of 7.

Consulates 2.

Dampkjerkken 4.

Deichmann's Library
10.

Drammensvei 11.

Eidsvolds-Plads 5.

Ekeberg 12.

English Church 3.

Engravings and Draw-
ings, Coll. of 9.

Ethnogr. Museum 7.

Freemasons' Lodge 5.

Frognersaeter 12.

Gamle Akers Kirke 6.

Gaustad Lunatic Asy-
lum 12.

Griiner L0kken 5.

St. Hanshaugen 6.

Hsegdehougen 13.

Hotels 1.

Hoved Banegaard 1. 4.

Hovedcr 11.

Johanskirke 5.

Kampen 7.

Karl Johans Gade 4.

Kunstforening 9.

Kunstindustri-Musseet
9.

Museum of Art 8.

Music 2.

National Gallery 8.

Norges Bank 5.

Norwegian Society 6.

St. Olafskirke G.

Oscarshall 11.

Oslo 3.

Oslo Hospital 10.

J&stbanegaard 4.

Palace 9.

Pipervik 5.

Politikammer 4.

Porterage 1.

Post Office 1. 5.

Railway Stations 1. 4. 5.

Restaurants 1.

Rigshospital 10.

Schweigaard's Statue 7.

Sculpture Gallery 8.

Shops 2.

Slot 9.

Slotspark 9.

and Sweden. 4th Edit.

Christiania:

Steamers 3.

Storthings Bygning 5.

Stor-Torv 4.

Studenterlunden 8.

Tegneskole 10.

Telegraph Office 1. 4.

Theatres 2. 5.

Tivoli 2.

Toldbodbrygge 4.

Tramway 1.

Trefoldigheds Kirke 0.

Turist Forening 2.

University 7.

Vestbanegaard 5.

Vestre Akers Kirke 12.

VorFrelsersGravlund 6.

Vor Frelsers Kirke 4.

Wedel - Jarlsberg's
Monument 11.

Wergeland's Statue 6.

Zoolog. Museum 7.
Christiania -Fjord 3. 36.

282.
Christiansand 39.

— Fjord 39.
Christianssund 172. 206.
Christianstad 384.
Christiansten 218. 221.
Christineberg 369.
Christinehamn 312. 365.
Cimbrishamn 396.
Conradsberg 346.
Copenhagen 388. 393.
Corgas-Njarg 265.

Daanofos 124.

Dagalid 25.

Daglosen 365.

Dal (near Eidsvold) 118.

Dala 295.

Dalarne 364. 366.

Dalaro 353.

Dalby (near Lund) 388.

— (near Upsala) 358.
Dale (Dalsfjord) 167. 170.

— (Lilledal) 210.

— (Lysterfjord) 105.

— (Maanelvdal) 23.

— (Osterfjord) 79.
Dalecarlia 366. 368.
Daledal 105.

Dalelf 362. 363. 366. 369.
Dalen (Bandaksvand) 35.

(Foldal) 208.

(Jostedal) 107.

(Lyngenfjord) 257.
Dalensseter 105.
Dalevaagen 79.
Dalsbovand 169.
Dalsdal 170.

Dalsfjord (Spndfjord) 166.
167.

402

INDEX.

Dalsfjord (Valders) 134.

— (Voldenfjord) 170.
Dalshest 167.
Dalskog 281.
Dalslands Canal 279.
Damfos 33.
Damsgaardfjeld 70.
Danmark 355.
Dannemora 363.
Danvik 343.

Darbo 19.

Daviken 168.

Degeberga 384.

Degerfors 313.

Degerbn 307.

Deje 365. 312.

Dellen, Sodra and Norra

370.
Delsbo 370.
Demelsviken 56.
Dettern 294.
Digermulen (Tanafjord)

266.

— (Vesteraalen) 248. 247.
Digertlnd 235.
Digervarde 126.
Digrenpes 64.

Willing 276.
Dingtuna 315.
Uiserud 121.
Djefvulsklava 282.
Djupa Dalen (near Troll-

hattan) 292.
Djupdal (Gudbrandsdal)

122. 164.
Djupedal (Hedal) 83.
Djupvande 164.
Djupvaseggen 165.
Djupvik 374.
Jjjuras 368.
Djurmoklack 368.
Dokka (river) 92.
Dokkafos 159.
Dokken 90.
Dokmodal 239.
Doltsens Cavern 169.
Domaas, or
Dombaas 125. 207.
Donien 267.
Domma 150.
Dommabro 150.
Dornnarfvet 366.
Dovre 125.
Dovrefjeld 207. 215.
Dtfgerdalsvand 60.
Dtfgerfos 59. 60.
Dtflefjeld 159.
D«rle-S^len 213.
Diimestorp 289.
Dflnefos 185. 186.
Dtfnnfos 162.
Dflntefos 200.
Dpsen 105.

Dtfviksfos 18.
Drage 169.
Dragseid 250.
Dragstind 233.
Drammen 16.
Drammenselv 19.
Dravle-Vand 57.
Dregebo 179.
Dregebonipen 179.
Dreshula 122.
Driva 207. 208. 209.

, Ravine of the 209.
Drivafos 203.
Drivstuen 209.
Dronningens Udsigt 15
Drontheim, see

Throndhjem.
Drottningbolm 348.
Drottviknsering 265.
Drpbak 37.
Drtfia 215.
Drffilierne 215.
D r<an en 172.
Drjjsjafos 95.
Drvllenpsset 137.
Du'fed 372.
Dufnas 368. 353.
Dufvedal 303.
Dufveheden 288.
Dulsseter 105.
Dumber 149.
Duma 149. 158.
Dunderlandsdal 236.
Duneggen 183.
Dunkehallar 299.
Durmaalstind 257.
Duse 51.
Dverberg 249.
Dvergsnses or Dversnses

198.
Dybvik (Foldenfjord)

244. 241.
— (Lyngenfjord) 257.
Dylta 313. 314.
Dyngtf 34. 38.
Dynnsestf 236.
Dyrdal 109.
Dyreskard 30.
Dyrhaugsfjeld 160.
Dyrhaugstind-159. 160.
Dyringssseter 162.
Dyr0 251.
Dyrjjsund 251.
Dyrteigen 78.

Eckero 349.
Ed 281. 279.
Edane 311.
Edeback 365.
Edefors 375.
Ednafos 65.
Ed<* 174.
Edsberg 355.

Edsvalla 364.
Edsvalla Bruk 811.
Edsvik 347. 355.
Egeberg, see Ekeberg.
Egersund, see Ekersund.
Egge 182.
Eggenibba 183.
Eggereid 111.
Eggesvik 240.
Eid (Eidsfjord) 168.

— (Throndhjem Fjord)
223.

— (near Fortun) 158.

— (Hardangerfjord) 61.
Eidanger 33.
Eidangerfjord 33. 39.
Eide (Fortundal) 158.

(Hardangerfjord) 59.
(Isingvaag) 173. 197.

— (Moldefjord) 170. 202.

— (Oldenvand) 193.

— , 0vre & Ytre (Op-
strynvand) 190.

— (Sognefjord) 112.
Eidesnut 65. 66.
Eidet 79. 215.
Eidet-Seeterland 234.
Eidevik 180.
Eidfjord 58. 59. 61.
Eidsaa 170. 172.
Eidsberg 276.
Eidsborg 35.
Eidsborgaasen 35.
Eidsbud 137.
Eidsbugarden 137. 139.
Eidsfjeld 25.
Eidsfjord (Sognefjord)

112. 113.

— (Laxefjord) 264.

— (Nordfjord) 168.
Eidsfos 169.
Eidstfren 202. 173.
Eidsskog 275.
Eidsvaag (Langfjord)

202.
Eidsvand (Fortundal)
158.

— (Throndhjems-Stift)
233

Eidsvold 118. 211.
Eidsvoldsbakke 118.
Eidsvoldsverk 118.
Eierdal 99.
Eikedal, Gaard 57.
Eikedalsfos 58.
Eikedalsvand 58.
Eikefjord (Sognefjord)
116.

— (Stfndfjord) 167.
Eikenseshest 168.
Eikisdal 126. 205.
Eikisdals-Elv 203.
Eikisdalsvand 204.

INDEX.

403

Eilandt 28.
Eimeheia 86.
Einabu 127.
Einingevik 53.
Einsaetfjeld 68.
Eirisfjord 197. 2U3.
Eiteraa 236. 237.
Eitnses 65.
Eitrheim 65.
Eivindvik 117.
Ejde Bratta 282.
Ekbyborna 304.
Ekeberg 12. 276.
Ekeblads Sluss 291.
Ekedalen 295.
Ekelidh«rl 29.
Ekensberg 348.
Eker0 44.
Ekersju 19.
Ekersund 43.
Ekne 223.
Ekoln 358.
Ekolsund 316.
Ekolsundsvik 316.
Ekornholm 119.
Ekre 84.
Eksingdal 79.
Eksjo 393.
Eksund 309.
Elbj0rg 96.
Eldegaard 101.
Eldeholt 101.
Elden 224.
Eldre-Vand 85.
Eldsberga 289.
Elfdal 312.
Elfkarleby 362.
Elfkarleo 363.
Elfsjo 298.
Elfsnabben 353.
Elfverums Udde 301.
Elfvisluss 292.
Elgaras 296.
Elgafjord 311.
Elgenaafos 176.
Elgershela 67.
Ell 206.
Ellefsmoen 85.
Ellingsgaard 189.
Elmhult 384.
Elsborg 366.
Elstakleven 122.
Eltevik 169.
Elvdal, Lille 213.
Elvebakken (Altenfjord)

258.
Elvegaard 250.
Elvenaes 270.
Elverum 212.
Elvtunfos 95.
Emmaboda 390.
Enaelf 372.
Enafors 372.

Enare-Trsesk 270.
Endinfos 131.
Enerhaug 170.
Engebacken 293.
Engelbrektsholm 314.
Engelholm 289.
Engelholmshamn 289.
Engel0 244.
Engelsberg 316. 366.
EngelvEer 244.
Engen i St/srren 211. 215
Enger (Gaard, on Lake

Spirillen) 88.
Engerfjeld 16.
Engervand 14.
Engum 148.
Enkoping 316. 352.
Enontekis 273.
Enstad-Sseter 126.
Erdal 61. 191.
Erdalsbrse 108. 191.
Erdtfla 191.
Erikssund 357.
Erikstad 364.
Erlandsgaard 24.
Erlangen, Lake 308.
Ertvaagtf 206.
Ervalla 314.
Ervik 169.
Esjok 271.
Eskilstuna 354.
Eslof 385.
Esp 222.
Espa 128.
Espedalsvand 128.
Espelandsfos 67.
Espelandssseter 180.
Espelandsvand 60.
Espen 211. 64.
Esperod 396.
Essefjord 115.
Essingen, LillaandStora

348.
Etelhelm 382.
Etnaelv 92.
Etne 52.
Etne-Pollen 52.
Evanger 79.
Evangervand 79.
Evedal 390.
Evensesdal 242.
Evenbuvand 29.
Evensgaard 242.
Exingdal 116.

Faaberg, Gaard 108. 105.
Faabergst/jl , Sseter 105.

162.
— , Glacier 108.
Faaro 195. 203.
Fageras 311.
Fagerdal 105.
Fagerli 221.

Fagerlid 242.
Fagerlund 91. 134.
Fagermo 242.
Fagernses (in Valders)

93.
— (Ofotenfjord) 250.
Fagersanna 296.
Fagersletnipen 179.
Fagersta 365.
Fagervik 221.
Faleide 184.
Falerum 309.
Falkenberg 288.
Falketind 139.
Falkoping 295. 298.
Falnses 51.
Falsterbo 395.
Falun 366.
Fanaraak 151. 157.
Fanaraakbrse 150.
Fane 78.
Fanefjeld 78.
Fanefjord 198. 202.
Fanestrand 195. 197. 202.
Fantoft 78.
Fardal 102. 113.
Faret 41.
Fariselv 32.
Farisvand 32.
Farnses 102. 158.
Farodden 34.
Farrejaur 249.
Farsund 43. 181.
Farvoldcn 34.
Fastdalstind 256.
Faxeelf 374.
Faxtind 251.
Fsemund-Sj0 312.
Faemundselv 312.
Farjestad 392.
Farbsund 382.
Fedde 40. 43.
Feddefjord 43.
Feigumsfos 104.
Feiring, Bay of 211.
Fejos 114.
Felden 171.
Fellingsbro 314.
Femsjjzren 280.
Fennebufjord 25.
Fennefos 41.
Fet 104.
Fetsund 275.
Fibelstad-Hougen 177.

185.
Fibelstadnibben 177.
Fiholm 354.
Fiksensund 58.
Filipstad 313. 366.
Fillefjeld 96. 138.
Fillefjeldvand 97.
Fillingsvand 127.
Fimreite 113.

26*

404

INDEX.

Finb0le-Sseter 128.
Finb0lhoug 128.
Finhala, Pass 146.
Finhalselv 146.
Finkirke, Store and Lille

265.
Finknse 235.
Finkongkjeilen 266.
Finkroken 255.
Finnsea 176.
Finneid 242.
Finnerbdja 296.
FinsEet 205.
Finsevand 111.
Finskog 312.
Finansea 268.
Finspong 299.
Finstaholm 357.
Fiakebiickskil 283.
Fiskesby 309.
Fisketjern-Sseter 87.
Fisktiernmo 236. 239.
Fiskum 224. 225.
Fiskunifoa 225.
Fiskumvand 19.
Fister 47.
Fittja 349.
Fiva, Gaard 200.
Fivellanda Elv 49.
Fjaagesund 34.
Fjaderagg 374.
Fjaras 288.
Fjseve 52.
Fjferland 114.

Fjeerlandafjord 114. 115

Fjeldheim 90.

Fjeldhoug 119.

Fjeldvidde 84.

Fjelkinge 384.

Fjellbacka 282.

Fjerdinggraend 129.

Fj0aanger 78.

Fj0seide 173.

Flaamsdal 60. 111.

Flaata 181.

Flaate 188.

Flaath0lelv 28.

Flaatabunut 28.

Flaavand 34.

Fladberg 68.

Fladsffit 206.

Flagan-Sjo 311.

Flagsund 244.

Flakstadu 248.

Flatdal 27.

Flatdalsvand 27.

Flateb0, Gaard 57.

Flateb0gjel 5S.

Flatekval 79.

Flaten 96.

Flaten, Lake 310.

Flatmark 128. 200.

Flelna 239.

Flekkefjord 43.
Flekken 149.
Flen 297. 306. 354.
Flenjanaase 111.
Flenje-Eg 111.
Fleaberg 25.
Flesene 247.
Flesje 115.
Fleskedalselv 154.
Fleskedalssaeter 154.
Fleskedalstind 155.
Flisby 307.
Flo 186. 190.
Floda 294.
Floenvand 193.
Flofjeld 190.
Flore 184.
Floren 222.
Flor0 167.
Floten 26.
Flotcr 183.
Flottbergstriim 292.
Fl0en 77.
F)0ien 76.
Fl0ifjeld 70.
Flotatind 204.
Flotsund 358.
Fluberg 92.
Flydalahorn 164.
Flydalsjuvet 164. 187.
Flysaeter 128.
Fodnses 101.
Fodvang 122.
FogelS 348. 349.
Fogelata 307.
Foglavik 294.
Fogsaae 207. 208.
Fogstuen 207.
Fogstuh0 207.
Folda 208.

Foldal 206. 122. 218.
Foldenfjord (near Bod0)

244.
— (near Namsos) 232

233.
Folden-Sj0 232.
Foldereid 233.
Folgefond 55. 57. 65.
Follestaddal 175.
Folsj0 21.
Fondalbrse 239.
Fond0la 106.
Fonhuafjeld 90.
Fora 371.
Formo 122.
Formokampen 123.
Fornteadal 257.
Fornsestind 256.
Forra 222.
Forradal 215.
Fors 370.
Forsastrom 309.
Forserum 299.

Forssa 373.
Fortun 158.
Fortundal 158. 159.
Fortundalselv 159.
Fortungalder 159.
Forvik 235.
Fosbakken 210.
Fosbraaten 93.
Fosdal 101. 191.
Foseide 206. 210.
Fosen 232.

Foaheini 84. 94. 134. 183.
Fosheimfos 182.
Fosland 224. 225.
Foslandsosen 233.
Fosmoen (Bardudal) 252.
Fosnsea 224.
Foanseabrse 166. 190.
Fossan 46.
Fossegaarden 121.
Fosseim, Gaard 84. 94.
Fosseimsseter 8i.
Foasen 107.
Fosaeaseter 105.
Foxen 279.
F0glevand 182.
F0lsvik 171.
F0rde (F0rdefjord) 167.
116.

— (Breumsvand) 182.

— (J0rstefjord) 171.
F0rdefjord 167. 180.

— or Bredheimsvand
182.

F0rdenip 181.
F0rre8vik 51.
Forslbf 289.
Framnsea 115. 92.
Framrusthovd 163.
Framrust Ssetre 162.
Frandefora 364.
Fred0 206.

Fredriksborg (near Chria-
tiania) 10.

— (near Stockholm) 352.
Fredrikshald 278. 282.
Fredrikssten 278. 282.
Fredrikstad 277. 282.
Fredriksvand 163.
Fredriksvsern 38.
Freheim 65.
Freibottenfjeld 99.
Frengstad 210.
Frengatuen 120.
Freavik (Sognefjord) 112.

— (S0rfjord) 65.
Freavikbrie 113. 114.
Freavikafjeld 109.
Fretheim, Gaard 111.
Fridened 295.
Friersfjord 33. 38.
Frlken 154. 155.
Frilleaas 288.

Frinnaryd 307.
Fristad 294.
Fro-Hav 232.
Fro-J&er 232.
Frogner 118.
Frognerkilen 14.
Frognersseter 12.
Fron 122.
Frosten 223.
Frostlsen 250.
Frtfjen 167.
Frjerjsefos 186.
Frfllandsdal 58.
Frollinge 289.
Fr0ningen, Indrc 109.
— , Ytre 109. 112.
Froso 371.
Frosjo 297.
Frovi 314.
Frudalsbrae 114.
Fruholm 261.
Frustunasjo 297.
Frydenlund 91. 88. 92.
Fryken Lakes 312.
Fryksdal 312.
Frykstad 312.
Fuglehjj 131.
Fuglen 172.
Fuglesteg, Gaard 158.
Fuglnses 259.
Fuglo 239. 256.
Fuglsset 202.
FuglSffiter 131.
Fuglssetfjord 116.
Fulltofta 385.
Fureberg 56.
Furnseafjord 119.
Fursset 206.
Furuheim 21.
Furulund 17.
Furunipa 115.
Furusseter 59.
Fusefjord 63.
Fuske 241. 244.
Fuskeeid 241. 244.
Futesprang 104.
Fylkestene 52.
Fyllel 289.
Fyrebatvatn 27.
Fyriaa 355. 359. 362.
Fyrisvand 35. 41.
Fyssefos 109.

Gaapaapigge 128.
Gaaratun 61.
Gaaserenden 396.
Gaasvaaselv 233.
Gadd 374.
Gagnef 368.
Galdeberg 137.
Galdebergsfos 137.
Galdebergstind 137. 139.
Galdebergsvand 151.

INDEX.

Galder (Lferdal) 97.

— (near Stfnnerheim) 88.

Galderne, Gaard 97.

— , Gorge of 148.

Galdeshjji 147

Galdhizrer 130.

Galdhppig 145. 132. 147

Galleberg 31.

Galtesund 39.

Gamla Upsala 362.

Gamleby 309.

Gamlebyvik 309.

Gamledalsfos 182.

Gammalleroppa 313.

Gamvik 266.

Gangdalskavl 60.

Gansfjord 45.

Garberg 206. 210.

Gardmo 130.

Gargiastue 272.

Garli 211.

Garlidsaeter 87.

Garnses 78. 223.

Garnsvik 355.

Garthus 90.

Gaupne 106.

Gaupnefjord 104.

Gausdal 121.

Sanatorium 121.

Gausnses 188.

Gausta 23.

Gautistad 276.

Gavlfjord 249.

Gallo 371.

Galii 353.

Gefle 363.
Geflea 364.
Geijersdal 364.
Geimo Javre 271.
Geialauselv 29.
Geirangerfjord 186.
Gellivara 375.
Gemla 390.
Genevad 289.
Gestrikland 363.
Gesundaberg 368.
Getinge 289.
Gettero 288.
Ghirragas-Tjokko 251.

252.
Gibostad 251.
Giberen 24.
Gilbert's Grotto 300.
Gildeskaal 239.
Gildreskreden 104.
Gillund 119.
Gimnses 173. 206.
Gimstf 247. 248.
Gims^sund 248.
Gissund 244.
Gistad 308.
Gjednses 198.

405

Gjegnalundsbrse 168.

171.
Gjeiteggen 109.

Gjeiteryggen 115.

Gjeitfjeldtind 186.

Gjeitfondegg 186.

Gjeitfos 186.

Gjeithua 102.

Gjeitsdal 107.

Gjeitsdula 107.

Gjelh0 139.

Gjelhus i Nsealand 36.

Gjelle, Gaard 102.

Gjellefos 102.

Gjellero 61.

Gjellei 38. 276.

Gjellumvand 16.

Gjetmundsdal 95.

Gjelsten 172.

Gjende, Lake 140.

Gjendebod 140.

Gjendebrynet 137.

Gjendemsfjeld 172.

Gjendeosen 142.

Gjendesheim 129. 142.

Gjendetunge 140. 141.

Gjerde 56.

Gjerdeakslen 193.

Gjerdet 107.

Gjerenut 84.

G.jerkelandseggen 186.

Gjermundbo 19.

Gjermundnaea 196.

Gjermundshavn 56.

Gjerssetvatten 198.

Gjertvand 153.

Gjertvasbizren 156.

Gjertvasbree 153. 156.

Gjertvaselv 153. 156.

Gjertvasnaase 156.

Gjertvastop 156.
Gjessingen, Sseter 150.

151. 159.
Gjesvser 262.
Gjetenyken 183.
Gjeteryggfen 87.
Gjetfjeld 221.
Gjethus 18.
Gjetsjtf 26.
Gjtfdingsbsek 162.
Gjjerrven 190.
Gjtfse 46.

Gjufvik (Mjtfsen) 119.
— (Ulfsfjord) 256.
Gjul 173.
Gjuvaa 24.
Gjuveland 21.
Gjuvsj0 2'i.
Glaama 148. 131.
Glaamstad 131.
Glafsfjord 311. 364.
Glan, Lake 309.
Glengsbtflen 277.

406

INDEX.

Glimmingehus 396.
Glimsdal 148.
Gliinsdalsfos 143.
Glipsfjeld 101. 109.
Glitra 145.
Glitterbtf 163.
Glittertind 132. 145.
Glomfjord 239.
Glommen (Glomfjord)
239.

— (river) 212. 274. 275,
277. etc.

Glomnseseggen 190.
Glomsdal 190.
Gloppenfjord 168. 183.
Gloptlnd 143.
Gluggentind 175.
Gnesta 297.
Goalsevarre 257.
Goatzagaise 256.
Godegard 307.
Godjavre 243.
God0 (near Aalesund)
174.

- (Saltenfjord) 241.
God0str0m 241.
God0sund 53.
Godtlandsmyr 214.
Gogstfren 203.
Gogstad 31.
Gokkeraxelen 147.
Gokkerdal 147.
Gokra 146.
Gokradal 146.
Gokraskard 146.
Gol 84.

Golmes Oaaive 269.
Golsbakker 84.
Golzevaggegaissa 257.
Gonas 314.
Gorsen 172.
Gorsvatten 67.
Gorsvingane 30. 67.
Gothenburg 283.
Gotland 377. 298.
Gotopfjeld 116.
Gottenvik 305.
G0ra 209.
Gtirvaln 356.
Gota Canal 292. 296. 302.

308. etc.
Gotaelf 283. 285. 293. etc.
Gotafors 289.
Goteborg 285.
Gotened 295.
Graahellerfjeld 59.
Graah0 129.
Graakallen 221.
Graanaase, Store 108,
Graasiden 79.
Graauren 209.
Graddisdal 237. 243.
Grafverna 282.

Grafversfos 310.
Grande 186.
Grandsherred 21.
Graneimfjord 94.
Granesund 167.
Grankulla 392.
Granum (Randsfjord)
120.

— (Spirillen) 88.
Grashorung 137. 139.
Grasviksseter 129.
Gratangenfjord 251.
Grauthorn 186.
Gravahals 60.
Gravaune 209.
Gravdal (near Bergen)

77.

— (Jotunbeim) 141. 157.

— (Valders) 90. 92.
Gravdefos 200.
Grave 34.

Gravenfjord 58. 59.
Gravens-Kirke 59. 80.
Gravenuvand 59. 80.
Gravfjord 251.
Gravfos 18.
Grangesberg 314. 365.
Grasberg 366.
Grsesholm 250. 36.
Griistorp 294.
Grakarlen 301.
Greaker 277.
Grebbestad 281. 282.
Greby 282.
Gredung 108. 191.
Gredungsbree 108. 191.
Gredungssseter 191.
Gredungsst0l 108.
Grefsens-Bad 13.
Grefvie 289.
Grenna 300. 298.
Gretastue 86.
Grillby 316.
Grirnenvand 78.
Grimestad 58.
Grlmo 63.
Grimsnut 59.
Grimstad 39.
Grimstorp 383.
Grindabeim 95.
Grindalahorn 164.
Grindefjeld 84. 95.
Grindefjord 45.
Griningsdal 129.
Griningsdalsssetre 129.
Grip 174.
Gripenberg 307.
Gripsbolm 350.
Gripsb0len 174.
Grisletjeern 147.
Grota 146.
Grotaafjeld 162.
Grotlid 163.

Grotlidsvand 163.
Grodaas 184.
Grorud 118.
Grovebrse 181.
Groven 36.
Grovfos 47.
Grovhoved 29.
Grgindal (in the Halling-

dal) 85.
— (Romsdal) 126.
Gr0nd0la 84.
Gr^nfur 191.
Gr0ning 116.
GrjzrnlidSEeter 97.
Grpnlien 236.
Gr0nneberg 139.
Gr0nneskredbr8e 107.
Gr0n0 239.
Gr0nsfetre 126.
Grjansdal 67.
Gr0nsdalselv 66.
Gronskulle 383.
Gr0t0 244.
Gr0tsund 255.
Gr0ttingbrfetten 213.
Gr0vdal 197.
Gi-0vnsebba 209.
Grufsjo 363.
Grums 364.
Grundfjord 249.
Grundset 212.
Grundskallen 247.
Grundsund 283.
Grungedal 29.
Grungedalsbro 28.
Grungedalsbygden 24.
Grungedalselv 28.
Grungedalsfjeld 29.
Grungedalsvand 28.
Grunken, Gaard 84.
Grunnebo 293.
Grut 210.
Grytefjeld 189.
Grytereidsnib 193.
Grythyttehed 365.
Gryting i R0ldal 30. 68.
Gryt0 250.
Grytten 199.
Gubbelaadal 237.
Gudaa 222.

Gudbrandsdal 118. 121.
Gudbrandsgaard 87.
Gudhem 295.
Gudvangen 110.
Gula (Sognefjord) 179.
— (Throndhjem Fjord)

211. 215.
Gulbraa 116.
Guldteple 115.
Guldhav 252.
Guldholmen 266. 269.
Guldkroken 295.
Guldsmedmoen 41.

INDEX.

407

Guldamedshyttan 314.
Gulefos 215.
Gulekop 184. 185.
Gulenfjord 117.
Gulfjeld 78.
Gullbergs Vas8 290.
Gullbrandstorp 289.:
Gullholmen 283.
Gullmarsfjord 283.
Gullo 291.
Gullspang 313.
Gulosen 215.
Gulssetdal 114.
Gulset 173. 206.
Gulskogen 18.
Gulsvlk 83.
Gumpekulla 308.
Gunvordal 113.
Gunvordsbrse 109. 114.
Guolacserro 252.
Guridalsssetre 156.
Gursktf 169.
Gusiaas 202.
Gusselby 314.
Gustafa 370.

Guatafaberg (near Stock-
holm) 352. 353.

— (near Uddevalla) 293.
Gustafsfors 279.
Gutvik 233.
Gygrastol 56.
Gygrertfva 58.
Gyranfisen 88.
Gyrihaug 18.

Haahjem 193.
Haajen 259. 261.
Haakedal 23.
Haakensesfjeld 23.
Haanstad 206.
Haar3tad 210.
Haarteigen 63.
Habo 298.
Haddorp 307.
Hadeland 92.
Hadselfjord 248.
Haegersland-Bro 48.
Hafrsfjord 44.
Hafslo 103.
Hafslovand 103. 104.
Hafatad 180.
Hafatadsaetre 180.
Haga (near Stockholm)
347.

— (on the Glommen)
275.

— (Tunhtfvdfjord) 25.
Hagby 391.
Hagesaet-Saeter 96.
Hagestad 60.
Halbrand 180.
Halbrandsfos 180. 181.
Halbrandssseter 180.

Haldi 258.
Halland 289.
Hallandsas 289.
Halleberg 293.
Halleby 309.
Hallingby 88.
Hallingdal 81. 83. 63.
Hallingdalselv 83.
Hallingskarv 86.
Hallingskeie 87. 111.
Hallsberg 297. 313.
Halmstad 289.
Halogaland 233.
Halaefjord 173.
Halsenizr 52.
Halvgjserde 181.
Hamar 119. 212.
Hamlegr^vand 58.
Hammarby 356.
Hammarbyajo 348.
Hammer 249.
Hammeren 396.
Hainmerfeat 259.
Hammernses 236.
Hammer0tind 244.
Hammersb0en 86. 25.
Hamnskars Fyr 283.
Hamrene 108.
Hanses 172.
Hanekamb 58.
Hankabakken 242.
Hank0 Kystsanatorium

277.
Hanneso 237.
Hanneatad 213.
Hantf 247. 248.
Hanabu 26.
Hanspikje 162.
Haparanda 376. 274.
Haraldshaug (Hauge-

aund) 52.
Haraldshougen (Valderal

89
Haralda-Stotte 52.
Harbaken 266.
Hardangerfjord 54.
Hardanger Jjzrkul 63.
— Vidda 63.
Hardbakke 208.
Hardegaseter 125.
Harefos 270.
Hareid-Kirke 174.
Hareidland 169. 174.
Harg 363.
Harhamstf 172.
Hamas 363.
Harplinge 289.
Haratadhavn 243. 247.250.
Hartensund 282.
Hartevand 41.
Hasselfors 313.
Haaseludde 352.
Hastaberg 365.

Haavik 259.
Hattebergadal 56.
Haugaaaen 107.
Haugaasgjel 107.
Haugen 28.
Haugenaase 107. 108.
Haugene (Telemarkeu)

41.

- (Sognefjord) 99.
Haugenjjaet 108.
Haugeaund 51.
Haugfos 191.
Haugmaelen 103.
Haugnaase 99.
Haugnaea 235.
Haugsholm 169. 170.
Hauganaea (Hardanger) 63.
Haugum 225. 233.
Haukaaa 57.
Hauka-Elv 211.
Haukedal 180.
Haukedalavand 116. ISO.
Haukeland-Lone 78.
Haukelandsvand 78.
Haukeli-Saeter 29.
Hausadn 106.
Hauaviken 78.
Haven (Dyngtf) 38.
Havnaea 257.
Havnen 174.
Havnevik 198.
Havningberg 266.
Havn<ar 235.
Havnvik 250.
Hav<» 261.
Havjzraund 261.
Havsh0lfoa 159.
Haeg (Lferdal) 97. 85.
Hiigersten 348.
H8Bgge(0atreSlidre) 134.
Haggeby 357.
Haeggefjord 134.
Haeksfjeld 21.
Hseatad 115. 180.
Haatbo 370.

Haatholmen 295.300.352.
Hastveda 384.
Haettaparti 79.
Hafverud 280.
Hakantorp 294. 295.
Hallata 354.
Hatunaholm 357.
Heberg 289.
Heby 369.

Hedal (Spirillen) 89.
Hedalen (J0atre Slidre)

123.
Hedalafjord 134.
Hedemarken 118. 119.211.

212.
Hedemora 370.
Hedensfora 375.
Hedatenanuten 67.

408

INDEX.

Heen 19.
Hegdehaugen 13.
Hegge, Gaard 234.
Heggedal 16.
Heggeim 206.
Heggen 18.
Heggenhaugen 120.
Heggestrand 103.
Heggurdalstind 187.
Hegre 222.
Heilstad 233.
Heilstuguaa 145.
Heilstugubrse 145.
Heilstuguh0 144.
Heilstuguvand 164.
Heimdal 206. 210. 216.
Heimdalsvand 163.
Helevand 84.
Helgasjo 390.
Helgea 384.
Helgedal 151. 153.
Helgedalselv 153.
Helgedalssseter 151. 153.

160.
Helgeland 233.
Helgenses 48.
Helge«r 116.
Helgheim 182.
Helgonabakke 388.
Helg0 119. 257.
Hell 222.

Helle i Hyllestad 41.
— (Numedal) 25.
Helleberg 118.
Hellefors 365.
Helleforsnas 354.
Hellefos 18.
Hellekls 296.
Helleland 64.
Hellemofjord 249.
Hellerfos 144.
Hellertjaern 144.
Hellesfeter 192.
Hellesseterbrse 192.
Hellesylt 185. 172.
Helligdomsklipperne396.
Helsan 389.
Helsetvand 185.
Helsingborg 290. 388.
Helsingland 364. 370.
Helsingor 389.
Helsingvand 8i.
Helvedesfos 40.
Helvedesb0l 120.
Helvetesfallen 292.
Helvetesfos 104.
Helvik 53.
Hemdalshorn 188.
Hemnses 236.
Hemse 382.
Hemsedal 84.
Hemsedalsfjeld 85.
Hemsedals-Klrke 84.

Hemsila 84.
Hen 197.
Hengen 90.
Henjum 114.
Henjnmdal 114.
Hennan 370.
Henningsvser 243. 247.
Herand 58.
Hereid 101.
Hermano 283.
Hernbsand 373.
Herer (Hardangerfjord)
53.

— (Nordland) 236.

— (S0ndin0re) 169.
Herrestad 307.
Herrevadskloster 384.
Herrevand 150.
Herrgottsbakken 32.
Herrhult 365. 313.
Herrljunga 288. 294.
Hervasbrui 150.
Hes0 174.
Hesselby 356.
Hessleby 393.
Hessleholm 384.
Hestbrsepiggene 148. 162.
Hestebrae 104. 106.
Hesteklev 67.
Hesteklevfos 67.
Hestevolden 136.
Hestholmen 198.
Hestmands0 238.
Hestmoen 238.
Hestnaes 168.
Hestnaesfos 110.
Hestneespren 168.
Hestskjsersfyr 172.
Hesttjern 143.
Hevnskjel 206.

Hilda! 31. 66.
Hildalsfos 67.
Hildehalsen 184.
Hildre 172.
Hillerh0i 156.
Hillestad 103.
Himingen 21. 27.
Himlaa 288.
Himle 288.
Himmeltinder 248.
Hinden, Store and Vesle

131.
Hindflv 142.
Hind0"248. 250.
Hindsaeter 131.
Hintfglelid-Sseter 128.
Hirsdal 18.
Hisfjord 54. 57.
Hisingen 287.
His0 39.
Hitterdal 22.
Hitterdalsvand 34. 21.
Hltterelv 214.

Hitteren 174.
Hjaafos 47.
Hjselmodal 61. 62.
Hjselmoelv 61.
Hjferdal 27.
Hjeersj0 27.
Hjsertjr 195. 203.
Hjelle 162. 166. 191.
Hjelledal 162.
Hjellum 212.
Hjelmare Canal 314.
Hjelmaren, Lake302. 314.
Hjelmeland 47.
Hjelmo 261. 270.
Hjelm«(st0ren 261.
Hjelmsater 296.
Hjerpas 295.
Hjerpen 372.
Hjerpstriimm 372.
Hjertatsudde 292.
Hjertdal, see Hjserdal.
Hjerterudssund 280.
Hjertnses 32.
Hjerttf 244.
Hiessan 301.
Hjo 295. 300.
Hjortdal 185.
Hjortedalskar 185.
Hj0rendfjord, see Jflrund

fjord.
Hjusenfjord 47.
Hladehammeren 218.

221.
Hoaasnsebba 209.
Hoburg 377.
Hodnsseter 112.
Hodnsnipe 112.
Hoeim 204.
Hoeimfjeld 204.
Hoeimtlnd 204.
Hoel, Gaard 210.
Hof, Gaard 115. 212.
Hofgard 385.
Hofsater 282.
Hofsfos 19.
Hofslund 104. 113.
Hofsneebba 209.
Hogrending 192.
Hoijumsvarp 292.
Hokstad 223.
Hoi (Halllngdal) 25. 60.

87.
Holaker 125.
Holandsfjord 238. 239.
Holatinder 162.
Holaveden 306.
Holden 33.
Hole 164. 199.
Holen 276.
Holgruten 96.
Holleendernses 252.
Holmberget 223.
Holmedal 179.

INDEX.

409

Holmedalselv 179.
Holmefleld 184.
Holmen (near Drammen)
16.

- (near Falun) 367.

- (Slyngsfjord) 188.

- (near Stavanger) 44.

- i Tr0tten 122.
Holmenuten 30.
Holmestrand 31. 37.
Holmetjern 26.
Holmevand 115.
Holmevik 190.
Holmo 374.
Holmsund 374.
Holmnveden 370.
Holsanden 223.
Holsset 125.
Holsen 116. 180.
Holsenvand 180. 181.
Holsfjord (Tyrifjord) 14

15. 18.

- (Hallingdal) 87.
Holtaalen 215.
Holvik 24.
Hommelviken 222.
Homo 224.

Hompedalskulen 107.
Hompedalssreter 107.
Hondalsnut 81.
Honningsvaag 263.
Hope 168.

Hopen 241. 249.
Hopseid 265. 266.
Hopsflord 265.
Horgan 248.
Horgheim 128. 200.
Horn 308.
Horn-Avan 243.
Hornborgasjb 295.
Horndal 370.
Hornelen 167.
Hornet 200.
Hornindal 185. 176.
Hornindalsrokken 183.

185.
Hornindalsvand 184. 168
Horn0 267.
Hornsnakken 184.
Horntind 96.
Hornvik 262.
Horre 67.

Horrebrsekkene 67.
Horreheia 67.
Horsevik 179.
Horsnses 257.
Horten 37. 31.
Hortskarmo 233. 234.
Horungen 125.
Horunger 136. 151. 152.

155. 159
Hougen (Fibelstad-) 177

186.

Hougen (Indre-) 185.

— (Lierdal) 98.
Hougsrud, Gaard 90.
Hougsund 18.

Hov 215.
Hovden 116. 247.
Hove (Gudbrandsdal)
122.

— (Siyngsfjord) 188.

— (near Stadtland) 169.
172.

Hoved0 (near Christia

nia) 11. 37.
Hovestue 11.
Hovin (Guldal) 210.

215.

— (Tinnsj0) 23.
Hovland 64.
Hovringen 221.
H0dalsfjord 167.
H«rfde-Sister 25.
Hbfveraby 309.
H0gan-Aas 99.
Hbganas 289.
H0gdebrattet 143.
H0geh0i 179.
H^gerbotten-Ssetre 163.
Hjzfgerbottenvand 163.
Hogfjeld 89.
H0gholme 248.
Hogklint 382.
Hogkullen 296.
H0gronden 213.
Hogsjo 297.
Hbgarum 392.
H0gstuel0fte 140.
H0gvagel 144.
HjjgvagelkjEerne 144.
H^iby 222.
H0idalsmo 28. 35.
H0idalsvand 149.
H0ifos 149.
H0iholmstinder 235.
H0imyr 25.
Hpiskarsnut 112.
H0istakka 137. 139.
H0istulen 143.
H0itind 240.
H0ivand 150.
H0jaas 19.

H0jalm 193.
Hojea 388.
Hbkedalen 281.
H0l, Gaard 24. 62. 87.
H0land 233.
H0le 46.
H0lefjord 45.
H0ljabakfos 102.
H0ljabakken 102.
H0Vjebr0tefjeld 26.
H0llandsfos 49.
H0lleraa 90.
H0nefos 18.

Hbnsater 296.

H0nsene 113.

Hbr 385.

Hbrby 385.

Hbrk 314.

Hbrken, Norra and Sridra

365.
Hbrningsholm 306.
H0rsand 212.
H0velfjord 87.
H0vik 14.

H0vringen, Sseter 124.
Huddinge 298.
Hudiksvall 370. 373.
Hudrum 37.
Hufvudnas Fall 293.
Hugakolle 95.
Huglen 237.
Huldrefoa 181.
Hullekolle 90.
Hulta 305.
Hultsfred 309. 393.
Humledal 14.
Hummelfjeld 214.
Hun 225.

Hundebunden 277.
Hundefos 48.
Hundsendvand 84.
Hundsfosse 40.
Hundshammer, Gaard

104.
Hundsj0-Fjeld 207.
Hunds0ret 55.
Hundvaag0 51.
Hunneberg 293.
Hunnerfos 121.
Hunselv 119.
Hunskirke 119.
Huntorp, Gaard 122.
Hurtva 396.
Husaby 295. 296.
Husabruk 372.o
Husby-Kungsgard 363.
Husbyfjbl 304.
Husdal 64.
Huseb0, Gaard 114.
Husnees 53.
Husnsesfjord 53.
Husqvarna 298.
Hustadsnseset 176.
Husum (Lserdal) 98.
Hvalen 270.
Hval0er 282.
Hvalstad 15.
liven 386.
Hvideseid 28. 34.
Hvidesj0 34.
Hvidh0fd 94.
Hvidsten 37.
Hvitingfos 21.
Hvitings0 51.
Hyefjord 168.
Hvlen 29. 45. 47.

410

INDEX.

Hylland HO.
Hyllandsfos 36.
Hyllen 223.
Hylsfjord 45. 47.
Hylsskar 47.

Ibestad 250.
Iddefjord 278. 282.
Iddonjarga 256.
Ifo 384.
Ifosjb 384.
Igelstorp 296.
Igla 211.
Ihlen 216. 217.
Ildjarnstad 89.
Ufos 149.
llseng 212.
llsvlken 221.
Ilvand 153. 159.
llvasnaase 153.
Indalself 371.
Indertfen 223.
Indfjord 197.
Indre Dale 170. 200.

— Frtfningen 109.

— Haugen 185.

— Jore 50.

— Kvartf 238.

— Samlen 58.

— Saude 49.

— Vigten 233.

— Yri 193.
Indselsfeter 170.
Indsteseeter 87.
Indviken 184.
Indvikf.jord 168. 183. 189.
Ingaro 353.

Inglinge Hog 390.

Ing0 261.

Inlandet 173.

Inset 210.

Insjon 367.

Isb'erg 65.

Isdal 62.

Isdalsvand 62.

Ise 276.

Isfjord (Nordfjord) 168.

— (Moldefjord) 197. 199
Isingvaag 173. 197.
Isnianstorp 392.

Istad 202.
Isterdal 199.
Isterdalsfjelde 187.
Isterfjelde 197. 198.
Isterfos 187. 199.
Istinden 251. 252.

Jaastad 64.
.Tacobsdal 347.
Jacobselv 270.
— , Nordre 268.
.Tacobselvs Kapel 270.
Jagta 176.

Jakobbakadn 115.
Jakobsberg 316.
Jakobslund 304.
Jamsgaard i Vinje 24.

28.
Jarfjord 270.
Jarfjordbunden 270.
Jarlsberg 31.
Jader 354.
Jrederen 43.
.Isederens Rev 44.
Jaders Bruk 314.
Jaderskyrka 354.
Jsegervand 256.
Jsegervandstind 256.
.Taeggevarre 257.
Jselsjzr 47.
Jiirbo 370.
Jarla-Sjo 348.
Jsettegryder 32.
Jeito 86.
Jelben 111.
Jell0 37.
Jelsnses 168.
Jelsjzr 47.
Jemtland 371.
Jen-Elv 210.
Jenny 309.
Jensvold 214. 215.
Jerfso 370.
Jerfva 355.
Jerkin 122. 208.
Jerkinh0 208.
Jerna 297.
Jerngruben 21.
Jernlunden 308.
JernmSHe 288.
Jernvike 288.
Jersingnaasi 158.
Jertind 256. 257.
Jervkuppen 164.
Jesjavre 271.
Jeajok 271.
Jetta 125.
Joberg 32.
Jockmock 375.
Jodkajavre 271.
Johannisdal 315.
Jomfrubraaten 12.
Jomfruland 38.
Jonarnees 57.
Jondal (Hardangerfjord)

57.

— (near Kongsberg) 20.
Jondalsbree 57.
.lonsered 294.
Jonskard-Ssetre 95.
Jonsknut 18. 20.
Joranger 104.

Jordal (near Odde) 66.

— (near Stalheim) 113.

— (Gaard, near Stalheim)
111.

Jordal (Sundalsfjord)

173.
Jordalselv 66.
Jordalsnut 111. 65. 110.
Jordbreekke 29. 41.
Jordbro, Gaard 236.
Jostedal 104. 162. 105.
Jostedalsbrae 100. 107.108.

105. 181. 115.
Tostedalselv 100.
Jostedalskirke 107. 105.
Jotunheim 132.
Jotunstolen 139.
Jerkelfjeld 257.
Jtfkelfjord 257.
j0kuleggen 85.
J0lsterelv 180. '181.
j0lstervand 181.
Jonkbping 298.
J0vundfjord 175. 185. 188.
Jizrsendal 67.
— , Gaard 53.
Jtfsenfjord, see Hj08en-

ijord.
Jukamsklev 90.
Jukasjarvi 377.
Juklevand 57.
Juklevandshorgen 57.
Jula 296.
Jularbo 370.
Julaxlen 172.
Julsffit 173. 197.
Julsund 172.
Jungfru Cliff 301.
.Tunkersdal 237.
Junkersdalsgaard 237.

243.
Juratind 204.
Jutulbro 186.
Jutulelv 98.
Jutulhugget 213.
Juvbrse 130.
Juvvand 147. 151.
Juvvasshytte 147.
Jygrafjeld 181.

Kaafjord 257. 258.
Kaagef 256.
Kaagsund 257.
Kaardal, Gaard 60. 111.
Kaasa 22.
Kaaven 258.
Kabelvaag 247.
Kaggefos 18.
Kaggeholm 349.
Kaholmen 37.
Kaldafjeld 81. 111.
Kaldvatn 171. 185. 176.
Kalken 209.
Kallevaag 167.
Kallevasheia 29.
Kallskraastind 197.
Kalmar 382. 3S3. 391.

INDEX.

411

Kalmarsund 391.
Kalstad 210.
Kalvaahggda 136.
Kalvedal 77.
Kalvedalsegg 175.
Kalven-Sseter 131.
Kamajock 376.
Kammerherre (Jotun-

heim) 150.
Kamnseafjeld 252.
Kampen 7. 129.
Kamphamrene 162.
Kampaseter 129.
Kapellbackar 293.
Karasjok 271.
Karasjokka 271.
Karesuando 273.
Karlberg 345. 346.
Karl-Johansvsern 37.
Karlebotn 269.
Karlsborg (Lake Vettern)

296.
— (near Soderkoping)

305
Karlsby 307.
Karlsgraben 302.
Karlsgraf 293.
Karlshamm 384.
Karlsholm 384.
Karlskoga 313.
Karlskrona 383. 390.
Karlstf 256. 251.
Karlsoar 382.
Karlstad 312.
Karlsten 283.
Karm0 51.
Karmsund 51.
Karpalund 384.
Karsjo 370.
Kasa 95.
Kasberg 280.
Kasfjord 250.
Kastelbakke 14.
Kastellholm 343.
Kastnaeshavn 251.
Katrineholm 280. 297.
Kattarp 289.
Kattegat 290.
Kaupanger 112.
Kautokelno 272.
Kallstad 307.
Kallviken 364.
Karfsta 373.
Karingberg 368.
Karnan 389.
Karrgrufvan 316.
Keilhaustop 147.
Keiseren, Pass 153.
Kellvig 172.
Kengis Bruk 274.
Kerao 348. 356.
Ketkisuando 273.
Kexiavara 274.

Kiberg 267.
Kihlangi 274.
Kil 312. 364.
Kilafors 370. 373.
Kile (Kilefjord) 41.

— (Voldenfjord) 171.
Kilebrekvand 170.
Kilefjord (Ssetersdal)

41.

— (Stfndmure) 171.
Kilefoa 110.
Kilen, Gaard 105.
Killeberg 384.
Kilaberg 297.
Kilaboten 110.
Kilamo 297.
Kinda Canal 308.
Kinnekulle 295.
Kinnerodden 265.
Kinservik 64.

Kirke (Jotunheim) 145.

157.
Kirkebtf (Hemsedal) 84.

— (Hvideajo) 34. 28.
(Sognefjord) 116.

Kirkeglup 145. 157.
Kirkelandet 173.
Kirkemo 252.
Kirkenses (Hardanger-
fjord) 63.

(Syd-Varanger) 270.
Kirkestul 96.
Kirkeatuen 122.
Kirkeaund 283.
Kirketjerne 157.
Kirkevaag 247.
Kirkevold 97.
Kirktf 282.
Kistebunuten 29.
Kistrand 264.
Kittia 274.
Kivik 396.
Kjselatind 29.
Kjsielavand 29.
Kjeernhulstind 143.
Kjaerringen 169.
Kjaerring0 244.
Kjsetnses 241.
Kjedelen 147.
Kjeipen 115. 167.
Kjelda 87.
Kjeldhaug 55.
Kjelkenres 167.
Kjelland, Gaard 59.
Kjelling 240.
Kjelatad 185.
Kjelstadli 185.
Kjelvik 263.
Kjendalabrce 192.
Kje0 247.

Kjendalskrona 191. 192.
Kjeringtind 235.
Kjernfjeld 237.

Kjosen 256.

Kjostinder 256.

Kjabenhavn , aee Copen-
hagen.

Kj0bavig 249.

Kj0depollen 170.

Kj0fjord 270.

Kj0ivingfjeld 22.

Kj0k 135.

Kj0laaa 175.

Kj0lberg 85.

Kj^lbergelv 276.

Kjulen 124.

Kjtfllefjord 265.

Kj0ndalst'oa 65.

Kj0nsaas 25.

Kj0naberg 256.

KjOT 184.

Kj0sbunden 184.

Kjtfsnseafjord 181. 182.

Klana 181.

Klarasjo 346.

Klarelf 293. 312. 365.
etc.

Klamman 305.

Klsestorp 297.

Klefva 296.

Klengfjeld 209.

Klenahyttan 365.

Kleppenhagen 27.

Kleve 202.

Kleven (Hemsedal) 84.

— (Mandal) 42.
Klevene (Eundal) 60.

111.
Klevstue 15.
Klinkenberg 122.
Klintehamm 382. 377.
Klippan 388.
Klockgropsbacke 368.
Klokaeggen 176.
Klopkjsern 17.
Klosterelv 270.
Klosterfjord (Hardanger-

fjord) 53.

• (Syd-Varanger) 270.
Klosterfos 33.
Kloster0 51.
Klostret 295.
Kloten 314.
Kl0ften 118.
Kl0ve (Vossestranden)

111.
Kl0ven (Solbergfjordj

251.
Klubbefjeld 268.
Klubben (Finmarken)

264.

- (Jostedal) 108.

— (Malaren) 348.
Klubnsea 268.
Klungenses 198.
Klypenaaai 160.

412

INDEX.

Knifsta 355.
Knivebakkesffiter 105.
Knivselv 186.
Knivsflaa 186.
Knivskjfer-Odden 262.
Knivsflaafosser 186.
Knefskanses 262.
Knudsdal 185.
Knutby 362.
Knutshu 209.
Knutshul 137.
Knutshulstindcr 140. 137.

141. 143.
Kobberberg-Elv 21.
Kobberdal 236.
Kobbervik 51.
Kobberviksdal 31.
Kobberyggen 252.
Kockenhus 390.
Kokkerstuen 92.
Kokstfren 203.
Koksvik 206. 173.
Kolarelv 109.
Kolartop 109.
Kolback 315. 366.
KolbScksa 366.
Kolbeinsthveit 48.
Kolbotten 353.
Koldedalstinder 139. 153.

136. 137.
Koldedalsvand 155.
Koldedula 102. 139. 154.

155.
Kolmarden 310.
Kolnaasi 106. 160. 161.
Kolsaas 14. 37.
Kolsnaren 297.
Kong Kristian II. 's Hule

12.
Kongens Udsigt 15.
Kongensv-old 206.
Kongsbacka 288.
Kongsberg 19.
Kongsdalsnaasi 156.
Kongsfjord 266.
Kongsgrav 235.
Kongshavn 12.
Kongshavnfjeld 258.
Kongshtri 114.
Kongslid, Gaard 252.
Kongsmo 233.
KongsUer 266.
Kongstrjam 89.
Kongsvand 114.
Kongsvinger 275.
Kongsvold 208.
Ko6 283.
Kopangstind 256.
Kopervik 51.
Koppang 213.
Kopparberg 314.
Kopparklint 292.
Kornstf 280.

Kornstad 173.

Kornvog 173.

Korpikula 377.

Kors 200.

Korsberga 295.

Korsdal 57.

Korsfjord (near Bergen)

53.
Korsnas (near Falun)

364.
Korsnses (near Bergen)

54.
— (Tysfjord) 249.
Korstfdegaard 212.
Kosthveit 24. 28.
Ktilsjon 314.
Koping 313. 115.
Kbpmannabro 280. 364.
Kraakmo 249.
Kraakmotind 249.
Kraakstad 210. 276.
Kragertf 38.
Krapperup 290.
Kravik, Gaard 25.
Kravikfjord 25.
KrBekjaneia 84.
Krsekjahytten 86.
Krsekjavand , Store and

Vesle 86.
Krsemmermoen 90.
Krekling 19.
Krigsberg 304.
Kringelen (Gudbrands-

dal) 123.
Kringlen (Dalsfjord) 167.
Kringlegd 28.
Kristiania, etc. , see Chris-

tiania.
Kristineberg 369.
Krogegg 109.
Krogene 53.
Krogkleven 15.
Krogskog 14. 18.
Krogsund 14.
Krogsvaagen 224.
Krokan 23.
Kroken 104.
Krokhaug 208. 213.
Krokom 371.
Krona 18.

Krondal (Jostedal) 107.
Kronebrse 191. 192.
Kronefos 192.
Kronoberg, Castle 390.
Kronobergslan 390.
Krosboden 150.
KrosfJEeren 60.
Kroshfli 150.
Krosnces 64.
Krtfderen 82.
— , Lake 82.
Krosekulle 294.
Krusenberg 358.

Krvlbo 369.
Kukkola 377.
Kulfjord 261.
Kullen, Promontory 290.
Kullsveden 370.
Kummelnas 352.
Kungsangen 316. 356.
Kungsbro 304.
Kungsgarden 364.
Kungsgrotta 291.
Kungshamm 358.
Kunguhatt 349.
Kungs-Norrby 304.
Kungsiir 314. 353.
Kunnen, Promofltory

238.
Kupefjeld 181.
Kupenaava 182.
Kuttainen 273.
Kvaal 215.
Kvale 94.
Kvalehtfgda 94.
Kvalenses 64.
Kval0 253. 254.

— (Hammerfest) 260.
Kvalvaag 241.
Kvalvig 248.

Kvam (Gudbrandsdal)
123.

— (jCftfjordsvand) 61.

— (Snaasenvand) 224.

— (Sogndal) 104.

— (Vangsmjtrsen) 95.
Kvama 98.
Kvamenos 95.
Kvamfjeld 193.
Kvamfos 61.
Kvammen 206.
Kvamsseter 164.
Kvamshest 167. 180.
Kvamsklev 95.
Kvandal 192.
Kvandalsbrse 108.
Kvandalsfjeld 179.
Kvandalsvand 57.
Kvannefos 93.
Kvartf, Indre 238.
Kvarsten 40.
Kvarven 54.
Kvashoved 59.
Kvsefos 158.
Kveernaa 163.
Kvserneelv 106.
Kvsernhusfjeld 192.
Kvenangfjord 257.
Kvenangstinder 257.
Kvenne Heia 48.
Kvernsesfjord 173.
Kvig, Gaard 243.
Kvikne 123. 210.
Kvildal 48.
Kvindherred 56.
Kvindherredfjord 54.

INDEX.

413

Kvinesdal 43.
Kvisberg 121.
Kvistadal 175.
Kviteggen 177.
Kvitelvdal 177.
Kvitevarde 115.
Kvitingskjtflen 146.
Kvitnaa 64.
Kvitnses 249.
Kvittind 243.
Kvitvaselvdal 237.
Kviven 176. 185.

laagen 20. 25. 26. 47. 120.

etc.
Labrofos 21.
Lade 222.
Ladegaardstf 12.
Ladnijaure 272.
Ladvik 116.
Lagaa 289.
Lagmansholm 294.
Laholm 289.
Lakvik 309.
Laleid 48.
Lamhult 383.
Land 92.

Landegode 239. 243.
Landsbrunn 295.
Landskrona 385.
Landsvserk i Sauland 27.
Langaarsund 38.
Langbrekken 187.
Langdal (Geirangerfjord)

187.
Langedal (Aardalsvand)

102.

— (near Bergen) 78.

— (Bygdin) 136.

— (Sognefjord) 113.
Langedalselv 137.
Langedals-Sseter 136.
Langedalstjern 136.
Langefondsseter 23. 27.
Langeidvand 28.
Langeland (S0ndfjord)

167. 180.
Langenaes 249.
Langenfjord 257.
Langesseter (nearFaleide)

184.

— (Sognefjord) 115.
Langesj0 26.
Langeskavl 138. 137.
Langesund 38.
Langesunds Fjord 38.

— Kreppa 39.
Langevaag 52.
Langevand (near Bergen)

— (Videdal) 165.
Langfjord (Altenfjord)

258.

— (B0gfjord) 270.

Langfjord (Moldefiord)
198. 203.

■ (Tanafjord) 266.
Langglupdal 213.
Langhammer 224.
Langlete 215.
Langnses 257. 247.
Lang«r (near Krager0) 38.

— (Vesteraalen) 219.
Langsandmo 243.
Langskibs0 188.
Langvand (Djupvand)

164.

— (Jotunheim) 144.
(Sulitelma) 242.
(Svartisen) 236.

Langvatn 144.
Laphullet 236.
Larslund 354.
Larvik, see Laurvik.
Laudalstinder 183.
Laugen, see Laagen.
Lauparen 196. 188.
Laurdal (Bandaksvand)
28. 35.

■ (S0ndm0re) 171.
Laurgaard 124.
Laurvig 206.
Laurvik 32. 38.
Lauva 146.
Lauvhtf 146.
Laxa 296.
Laxefjord 264.
Laxen, Lake 280.
Laxevaag 77.
Laxholm 310.
Luegdeelv 109.
Lsera 99.
Lserdal 97.
Lserdalselv 85.
Laerdalstfren 99.
LEereim 198.
LEnga 288.
Langholm 348.
Leangen 222.
Lebesby 264.
Leck0 233.

Lee 279. 281.
Lee, Lakes 279.
Leebotten 266.
Leelangen, Lake 279.
Leerfjord 244.
Leerskardal 236.
Legreidsvand 86.
Leikanger 114.
Leines 244.
Leira (Hardanger) 87.

— (Jotunheim) 149.
Leiraas 158.
Leirdal 149. 158.
Leiren, see Kongsvinger
Leirh0 145.

Leirmo 106.

Leirmolxovd 106.
Leirungsbrse 143.
Leirungsdal , 0vve

143.
Leirungsvand 143.
Leirvand 144. 157.
Lejonet 290.
Lejonkallan 282.
Lekanger 114. 109. 109.
Lekna^s 176.
Leksand 368.
Lekve 60.
Lemeggen 109.
Lemonsjp 131.
Lenna 362.
Lennartsfors 279.
Lennartsnas 356.
Lennbeden 368.
Leps0 53. 172.
Ler 215.
Lerback 307.
Lerbrovik 197.
Lerelv 274.
Leren 222.
Lerfos 222.
Lerjordfald 243.
Lerum 294.
Lervik (Hardangerfjord)

52
(Sognefjord) 117.
Lesjekirke 125.
Lesjeskogen 126.
Lesjeskogen-Vand 125.
Lesjevand 125.
Lesjeverk 126.
Letsjo 370.
Leufsta 363.
Levanger 223.
Lexviken 223.
Liabrse 159.
Liabro 12.
Liabygd 188.
Liadalshorn 175.
Liadalsnibba 186.
Lian 276.
Liassseter 50.
Liatorp 384.
Liavand 162.
Liaxlen 107. 108.
Libygfjeld 35.
Lid, Gaard 125.
Lidan-Elf 295.
Liden 374.
Lidingo 352.
Lidkoping 295.
Lidland 250.
Lien 120. 48.
Lier 16.
Lifjeld (Siljordsvand) 27.

34.
— (Slyngsfjord) 188.
Ligga 370.
Lihaugen 172.

414

INDEX.

Lihest 117.
Likkafjeld 252.
Likkavarre 252.
Liljeholmen 298.
Liljesta 305.
Lilla Essingen 348.

— Vartan 345.

Lille Elvdal 208. 213.

— Faerder 37.

— Finkirke 265.

— Lerfos 222.

— Mauket 252.

— Rjukanfos 35.

— Toren 171.

— Vads0 268.
Lilledalsegg 185.
Lilledalshorn 175.
Lillehainmer 120.
Lillehest 180.
Lillehorn 175.
Lillesand 39.
Lilleskog 294.
Lillestr0mmen 118.
Lilletun 61.
Liltdal 173. 209.
Linajsekna 242.
Lindas 391.
Linde 314.
Lindebraekke 59.
Lindesnses, Cape 42.
Lindfors 365.
Lindbult 288.
Lindome 288.

Lindii (Lake Vetlern)

296.
Lind0 (near Cliristiania)

37.
Lindsheim 162.
Lindvik (Strvnsvand)190
Lines0 232. '
Lingbo 370.
Linge 188.
Linghem 308.
Lingsfos 158.
Linkoping 307.
Lis 288.
Listad 122.
Lister 43.
List0lsbrie 107.
Litlien, Lake 372.
Liverud 25.
Ljone 48.
Ljonevand 48.
Lj0en 187.
Lj0enbakker 187.
Ljung 294. 304.
Ljunga-Elf 379.
Ljunga 370.
Ljungby 383.
Ljungskile 283.
Ljusdal 370.
Ljusne 372.
Ljusneelf 372.

Lodalsbrae 108.
Lodalskaupe 108. 191.
Loen 191.
Loendal 189.
Loenvand 191.
L of aid 179.
Lofjeld 189.
Lofoden Islands 244.
Lofos 94.
Lofotodden 248.
Lofotvaeggen 245.
Lofo 348.

Loftenees, Gaard 104.
Loftesnaes 112.
Loftet 149.
Lofthus 64.
Lofvene 295.
Logenelv 47.
Loksund 53.
Lorn 130.
Lomen 94.
Lommijaur 242.
Lomsegg 148. 161.
Lomsborung 127. 161.
Loppen 257.
Lora-Elv 125.
Lorafjeld 127.
Losna, Lake 122.
Lotefos 66. 67.
Lotevand 67.
Lougen, see Laagen.
Lovardalsskard 102.
Lovunden 237.
Loberod 396.
Lubsaas 240.
Liidde 386.
L0dingen 250. 247.
Liidose 294.
Lofholm 298.
Lofsta 358.
Loftaa 288.
Lofvestad 396.
L0g0 257.
L0iten 212.
L0kedal 58.

Lpkelandshest 167. 180.
L0ken 94.
L/jkenfos 193.
Lukkens Kobbervaerk

210.
Loksund 247.
L^kten 235.
Lenses, Gaard 211.
L0nehorjen 81.
L0nesdal 237.
L^nevande 81.
L0rsnses 258.
L0stegaard 84.
L0stsaeter 101.
L0veid 33.
L0vnaasi 160.
L0vstakken 70. 77.
Ludvika 365.

Lukastorp 296.
Lulea, 375.
Lule-Elf 243. 375.
Lule-Jaur, Stora 376.
Lummelund Trask 378.
Lummelunds Grotta 382.
Lund (near Malmb) 386.

— (Foldenfjord) 233.
Lundarvand 81.
Lundby 316.

Lunde, Gaard 115. 182.
— , Glacier of 181.
Lundebygd 180.
Lundefaret 34.
Lundemo 215.
Lunden, Gaard 113.
Lunderdal 162.
Lundevand 43.
Lund-Lien 372.
Lund0 244.
Lundsgr0nen 180.
Lungegaardsvand 70.
Lungeskar 115.
Lungo-Fyr 374.
Lur0 238.
Lusahougene 156.
Lussaeter 129.
Lyckeby 396.
Lyckebya 390.
Lyderhorn 54. 70. 77.
Lygner, Lake 288.
Lygren 117.
Lykkja 84.
Lyngdal 42.
Lyngdalselv 43.
Lyngen 257.
Lyngenfjord (near
Troms0) 256.

— (near Namsos) 224.
Lyngholrnen 52.
Lyng0r 38.
Lyngsdal 257.
Lyngseid 257.
Lyngstuen 256.
Lyngvser 247.
Lysaker 14.

Lyse 46. 03.
Lysefjord 46. 41. 53.
Lysekam 46.
Lysekil 283.
Lys0 53.
Lysterfjord 103.
Lysthus i Hitterdal 22.

Maab0 62.
Maab0dal 61.
Maab0galder 62.
Maab0vand 62.
Maalnses 139.
Maalselvsdal 251. 252.
Maalsnses 251.
Maan-Elv 23.
Maaraadal 164.

INDEX.

415

Maaraa-Elv 161.
Maaren 116.
Maasu 261.
Maassund 261.
Madevarre 268.
Madvik 186.
Magalaupet 209.
Magdajoktind 237.
Magertf 261. 206.
Magertfsund 262.
Magnor 275.
Majorna 285.
Makur 266.

Malangenfjord 251. 254.
Malde 45.

Malmagr/zrnsnaaven 81.
Malmangernut 55.
Malmo 224.
Malmti (Skane) 393.
— (island) 283.
Maimer (Norway) 42.
Malmvik 349.
Malatr/jm 248.
Malvik 222.
Mandal 42.
Mandalselv 44.
Mandseid 169. 170.
Manheni 367.
Mansberg 102.
Mantorp 307.
Maradalsbrse 152.
Maradalsfos 154. 204.
Maradalsskar 103.
Mardflla 204.
Maren, Lake 306.
Margretehill 364.
Mavianelund 393.
Maridalsvand 12.
Marieberg 345.
Marieborg 222.
Mariedam 307.
Mariefred 350.
Mariehof 305.
Marieholm 385.
Marielyst 389.
Marienborg 221.
Mariestad 296.
Marifjseren 104.
Maristuen 97.
Marka Kyrka 294.
Marma 363.
Marshydna 190.
Marstenfyr 53.
Marstrand 283.
Martedal 105.
Masi 272.
Masthugget 285.
Matarengi 274. 377.
Matsesken 171.
Matfors 373.
Mattmar 371.
Maurangerfjord 56.
Maursset 26. 87.

Maurstadeid 16S.
Maursund 257.
Miilaren, Lake 348. 306.

322. etc.
Mai 23.

Mselen (Lyngenfiord) 253
Mselkevold 193.
Mselkevoldbrse 194. 193.
Mallby 385.
Manniko-Koskl 270.
Mseraak 186.
Msere 223.
Marsta 355.
Mseskefjord 268.
Maeskeboug 268.
Makeberge 301.
Maklappen 395.
Malaskog 383.
Maskars-Fyr 283.
Jledelpad 370.
Medelplana 296.
Medevi 302.
Medheia 21.
Meliavn 265.
Mebus 62.
Meienfjeld 41.
Meierdal 187.
Meinseeter 160. 161.
Meisen 113.
Melaanfos 58.
Melbo 248.
Melderskin 55. 56.
Melfjord 239.
Melbeimsnibben 191.
Melbua (near Tbrond-

hjem) 215.
— (Gaard, in tbe Flaams-

dal) 111.
Melhus-Sseter 111.
Meling, Gaard 45.
Melkedal 151.
Melkedalsband 152.
Melkedalsbrse 138.
Melkedalspigge 138.
Melkedalstind 152.
Melkedalsvand 152.
Melked0la 137. 138. 151,
Melkehullerne 152.
Hell 115.

Mellan-Fryken 312.
Mellansjo 370.
Mellem-Vigten 233.
Hellene 134.
Mellerud 281. 364.
Mellosa 354.
Mel0 239.
Melsaker 351.
Melsdal 56.
Melsnipa 116.
Mem 305.

Memurubod 141. 143.
Meimirudal 141.
Memumelv 143.

Memnrutind 145.
Memurutunge 140.
Meraker 223.
Meringdal 204.
Meringdalsnsebba 203.

204.
Merkdal 243.
Merok, see Mseraak.
Mesna 120.
Messetind 251.
Middagsberg 110.
Middagsbaugen (Aardal)

101.

— (Romsdal) 200.
Middagshorn 176. 177.
Midnsesbamer 101.
Midtdalsl0ifti 159.
Midtdyrrnstene 30.
Midtet 203.
Midtfield 28.
Midtgaarden 35.
Midt-Garthus 90.
MidtleegersEeter 30.
Midtmaradal 103. 161.
Midtmaradalsbrae 161.
Midtsseter 56.
Midtst0lsbydna 190.
Midtunbro 78.

Miea 384.
Miefjord 172.
Miendalstinder 175.
Mikalshule 33.
Mikkelvik 257.
Minne 118. 211.
Minnesund 211.
Mireber, Gaard 200.
Misfjord 189.
Misvserfjord 241.
Mjell 115.
Mjolby 307.
Mj0lnir 200.
Mj0ndalen 18.
Mjorn, Lake 294.
Mj0sen, Lake 118. 211.
Mj0sstrand 24.
Mj0sund 251.
Mj0svand 24.
Mo (Gausdal) 121.

— (Kanenfjord) 236.

— (Suledalsvand) 41.
(S0ndfjord) 181.

Modum 18.

Moen (Aardal) 102.

— (Lysterfjord) 105.

— (Maalselvsdal) 252.

— i Sel 124.
i S0torp 123.

— (near Sulitelma) 242.
Mofalla 295.
Mogelifos 68.
Mogelinut 68.

Mogen i H0idalsmo 28. 35.

— (Mj0svand) 24.

416

INDEX.

Moheda 383.
Mohnskar 103.
Moholm 296.
Moland 35. 41.
Molandssseter 35.
Molaup, Field 176.
Moldaelv 111.
Molde 194. 172.
Moldefjord 194. 203.
Moldegaard 195.
Moldehei 196.
Molden 104.
Moldestad 183.
Moldjord, Gaard 241.
Mold)* 168.
Molkom 365.
Mollesjflkstue 271.
Mollosund 283.
Mon 280.

Monge, Gaard 200.
Mongefos 200.
Mongejura 200.
Jlongjel JtJdegaard 147.
Monsastue 83.
Monsbuheia 86.
Mora 368.
Morastenar' or
Mora Stones 356.
Morgedalo 28.
Morgongafva 369.
Mork 162.

Morkadtfla 102. 154.
Morkollen 90.
.Mormorsgrufvan 309.
Morshyttan 370.
Mortas 273.
Mortensnses 268.
Mosakselen 235.
Mosby 41. 42.
Moseb«r 27.
Mosjeren 235.
Mosken 248.
Moskenses 248.
Moskenses/J 248.
Moskenstrtfm 248.
Moss 37. 276.
Mossesund 276.
Mostadhaug 180.
Mosterkavn 52.
Mosterp 51. 52.
Mostorp 289.
Motala 302. 299.
Motalastrom 299. 302.

309.
Motala Verkstad 303. 302.
Motet 90.
Movatten 181.
Mockeln, Lake 313. 384
Mockleby 392.
M0en (Danish islandj

395.
Mpfalsskardene 69.
Mpgeletun 61.

Molle 290.
Mtfllen 77.
Mpllendal 77.
Mjallerbjerget 38.
Mjrtlerholm 16.
Molltorp 296.
M^lmen 126.
— , Sseter 126.
Molnbacka 365.
Molnbo 297.
Molndal 288.
Molndalsa 288.
Munsaastue 82.
Murk 191.
Mprkadalselv 81.
Murkedal 85. 169.
Morkeklef 296.
Murkereid 105.
M^rkereidsdal 105.
Murkesvikfjord 244.
Miirko 306.
M0rkvanddal 85.
Morrumsa 384.
Mdrsill 372.
Mprstafjord 134.
M0rst0l 197.
Morviken 372.
M<*sadelen 248.
Mosseberg 296.
Muggedalselv 90.
Mugnatind 135. 143.
Muldal 187.
Muldalsfos 187.
Mule i Vinje 28.
Mulelv 77.
Mullskraerna 301.
Mulskreddal 185.
Mulsvorhorn 185.
Mundal 114.
Mundheim 57.
Munfjord 249.
Munkaune 221.
JIunkeg 115.
Munken 301.
Munkevoldsfjeld 209.
Munkbolm (near Thrond

hjem) 221.
Munksjo 298.
Munktorp 315.
Munsii 349.
Muonioelf 273.
Muoniokoski 273.
Muonioniska 273.
Muoniovara 273.
Muradn-Sseter 102.
Muran-Sseter 157.
Musken 249.
Muskci 353.
Mustad 119.
Musubyttsseter 162.
Myklandsdal 182.
Myklebostad 182. 203.

'244.

Myklemyr 105. 107.
Mykletbveiten 79.
Myrdalsfos 57.
Myrdalsvand 56.
Myrhorn 107.
Mysen 276.
Myssu-Sseter 213.
Myten 107.

Naae 57. 64.
Naalene (Nserodal) 111.
Naaversseter 131. 146.
Nacka 348.
Naekanas 347.
Nadden, Nedre and Ofr

366.
Nadviken 101.
Nagltfren 104.
Nakkerud 18.
Namsdal 224.
Namsenelv 224. 225.
Namsenfjord 233.
Namsos 224. 233.
Napstrtfni 248.
NarU 233.
Nausdal 168.
Naustdal 167.
Nautefos 110.
Nautgaardstind 142.
Naven 210.
Nackten, Lake 310.
Niilden 371.
Naldsjo 371.
Nterbtf 43.
Nferer 233.
Nfertfdal 110. 81.
Naerfldalselv 110. 81.
Nseneffjord 109.
Nsertfnses 109.
Nserjzrsund 233.
Nserstrand 50.
Nses (near Aarnses) 275.

— (Arnefjord) 116.

— (Byglandsfjord) 41.

— (Hallingdal) 83.

— (Lake Krpderen) 82.

— (near Levanger) 223.

— (Lysterfjord) 105.

— (Mjusen) 119.

— (Eomsdal) 12b. 199.

— (Spirillen) 89.

— (Suledalsvand) 48.

— (near Upsala) 358.
Kasbo 300.

NiesbO 88.
Nsesbudal 88.
Nsesbjzrgalder 88.
Nasby 350.
Nsesdal 183. 192.
Nseselv 93.
Nseshelmshorgen 80.
Naesland 36.
Nsesmoen 86.

INDEX.

417

Naanaren 297.
Naeaodden 275.
Ncesoddtangen 37.
Naesseby 268.
Niesset 202. 213.
Nassja 301.
Naaajo 306.
Nassundet 313.
Naaviken 370.
Nseva, the 210.
Nseverdal 210.
Nsevernsea 234.
Nseverstj&d 235.
Nebbedal 177.
Nedanajo 373.
Nedberge 111.
Nederberg 170.
Neder-Kalix 370.
Nedreaal 87.
Nedreb«rdal 181.
Nedre Fryken 312.

— Holn 280.

— Jerfva 347.

— Lid 107.

— Nadden 366.

— St0l 187.

— Vand (Salangen) 252
(Vattenbygden)

242.

— Vasenden (Gravena
vand) 80.

(Jtflstervand) 181.

— Vekset 224.
Nedstryn 190.
Nedattun 78.
Neergaard (Maalselvsdal)

252.

— (Telemarken) 34.
Nelaagvand 39.
Nelhammar 309.
Neraal 87.

Nerike 297.
Nealenibben 193.
Nestbtf, see Nsesber.
Nesthammer, Gaard 58.
Neatun 78.
Neatun-Elv 78.
Netland 57. 58.
Nettoaseter 149.
Neverfjeld 121.
Nidarnses 217.
Nidelv (near Arendal) 39.

— (near Throndhjem)
216. 217.

Niemia 377.
Nigard 108.
Nigardabrse 106. 108.
Nikkeby 257.
Nipah0gd 60.
Niasaa 289.
Niasedal 34.
Nisaedalaelv 110.
Niaservand 34.

Baedekek'S Norway

Njalavarre 257.
Njoammel Guoika 270.
Njommelaaska 376.
Njuken 113.
Njungia 243.
Noah's Ark 392.
Nockeby 356.
Nokkenebfjeld 186.
Nol 290.
Nondal 102.
Nondalafoa 102.
Nonhaug 112.
Nonhougen (Jotunheim)

160.
Nonsfjeld 187.
Nonafos 194.
Nonsnibba 192.
Nora 313.
Norangsdal 176.
Norangsfjord 176.
Norberg 316.
Nord 168.
Nordaasvand 78.
Nordalafjord (S0ndfiord)

167.
Nordbjergskirke 162.
Norddal 170.
Norddalsfjord (Storfiord)

187.
Norddalskirke 187.
Norderhov 15.
Nordfjord (Malangen)251

— (Melfjord) 239.

— (N.Bergenhus) 168. 166
(Storfjord) 188.

Nordfjordeid 168.
Nordfolden 244.
Nordgaarden i Siljord28.
Nord-Horland 166. 53.
Nordkjos 253.
Nordkosters Dubbelfyr

282.
Nordkyn 265.
Nordland, the Norwegian

225.
— , the Swedish 372.
Nordlandet (Christiana-

sund) 173.
Nordmaling 374.
Nordmalingsfjord 374.
Nordmandslaagen 25.
Nordm0re 172.
Nordnsea (near Bergen)

75.
(Sognefjord) 113.
Nord-Pollen 56.
Nordre-Aurdal 93.
Garthus 90.

— Jacobselv 268.
Snerle 123.

Nordssetre 131.
Nordsjtf 33.
Nordvik 197.
and Sweden. 4th Edit,

Nore 25. 82.

Norefjeld 82.

Norefjord (Numedal) 25.

— (Sognefjord) 113.
Noreviksheien 116. 179.
Norheimsund 57.
Norra Barken 365.

— Dellen 372.

— Fryken 312.
.— Horken 365.

— Motet 392.
Norra 370.
Norrbotten 375.
Norrbystrbm 366.
Norrkbping 309.
Norrland 372.
NorrteJje 352.
Norrtull 345.
Norrvik 355.
Norself 311.
Norsesund 294.
Noraholm 305. 309.
North Cape 262.
Notodden 21. 34.
Novle-Vos 30.
Ntfrenelv 214.
N0ratedalS88eter 159.
N0rv0 171.
Ntfsetsffiter 88.
N^stdal 168.
N«rste 203.
N0stet 77.
Nostvik 234.
N0tter0 31. 37.
Nubgaarden i Torpe 85.
Nufsjord 247.
Nukefjeld 33.
Numedal 24. 20.
Nuppivarre 258. 272.
Nupshaug 150.
Nute (Sognefjord) 109.

113.
Nya Kyrkogarden 347.

— Sttfl 30.
Nyaat0]afos 63.
Ny-Aune 209.
Nya Varfvet 285.
Nybod 136.
Nyboda Tunnel 298.
Nyborg (Varanger) 268.
Nybro 391.
Nybussetre 26.
Nybusjer 26.
Nygard 293.
Nyheitind 204.
Nyhyttan 313.
Nykirke (on the Dram-

menselv) 18.

— (near Holmestrand)
31.

Nykbping 354.
Nykroppa 313.
Nyksund 249.

418

INDEX.

Nyland (Angermanelf)

374.
Nylsend 28. 24.
Ny-i9fvne 209.
Nypen 216.
Nypladsen 215.
Nyqvarn 308.
Nysseter (Gudbrandsdal)

125. 126.

— (Vuluvand) 163.
Nystuen (Fillefjeld) 96.

— (J0frkedal) 210.
Nvtorp 347.
Nytwen 210.

Ockelbo 370.
Ockesjo 371.
Odde 65.
Oddernses 40.
Oddersjaa 40.
Odensjo 385.
Odnses 92.
Oferdal 101.
Offerkallan 384.
Ofotenfjord 250.
Ofste-Dal 113.
Oftedal 99.
Oisseter 108.
Okken 99.
Oklevig 104.
Okna 309.
Oksdalsh0 139.
Oksena 188.
Oksfjord 234.
St. Olaf's Bad 18.
Olafsbuvand 87.
St. Olafsgryder 18.
St. Olafs Slanse 187.
St. Olafs Snushorn 187.
St. Olafs-Stol 197.
Olden 192.
Oldendal 192. 189.
Oldenskar 182. 193.
Olilenvand 193. 182.
Oldtfren 192.
Olestad0121.
Oliden Alan 292.
Olivehall 352.
Olrnajalos 242.
Olmheim 113.
Olsborg 253.
Olskroken 290.
Olstappen, Lake 128.
Omberg 300.
Oinlid 41.
Omnes0 239.
Ona 172.
Onen 59.
Ons0 276.
Onstad 93.
Opblusegg 164.
Opdal (Drivadal) 209.

— (Ljerdal) 98.

Opdal (Numedal) 25.

— (Valders) 96.
Opdalsttfle 138. 96.
Opd0l 173.
Opheim (Odde) 65.

— (Opheimsvand) 81.
Opheimsfjeld 189.
Opheimsvand 81.
Ophus 212.
Opigaard 204.
Oppedal 64.
Oppegaard 276.
Oppmannasjo 384.
Opssetsseter 111.
Opstegene 101.
Opstryn 190.
Optun 159.
Optunsfos 159.
Ordal 183.
Orddo-Vuodna 265.
Orken 181.
Ormberg 105. 107.
Ormbergsstjzrl 105.
Orm Eggen 28.
Ormeim 201. 128.
Orm0en 13.
Ormsund 276. 13.
Ornas 366.

Orno 353.
Orresta 316.
Orrtfielv 104.
Orrskog 363.
Orsa 369.
Orsa-Sjo 369.
Orsjo 370.
Ortenvik 116.
Orust 283.
Os (near Bergen) 53.

— (near R0ros) 214.
Oscarsborg 37.
Oscarshall 11.
Oscarshoug 151.

Ose (Osefjord) 60. 111.

— (Ssetersdal) 41.
Osedal 60.

Osefjord 60. 59. 111.
Osen (Osefjord) 59.

— (S0ndfjord) 167.

— (Suledalavand) 47.
Osesseter 60.
Oseskavl 60.
Oskar-Fredriksborg 352.
Oskarshamn 392.

Oslo 3. 276.

Osmark 202.

Osmundvaag 169.

Osterdalsbrse 192.

Osterfjord 78.

Oster0 79.

Osvand 202.

Oterdal 184.

Ottadal 129.

Ottaelv 123. 127. 162. 163.

Ottavand 130. 161.
Ottebol 311.
Otteraa 39.
Otterbaeken 313.
Otter0 (near Christian-
sand) 40.

— (near Molde) 172.

— (near Namsos 233.
Ottestad 211.
Ousby 384.
Ousbyholm 385.
Ovabergsdal 151.
Ovalbergselv 159.
Oviksfjellen 371.
Ovnen 265.

Oxefos 130. 131.
Oxelosund 306. 355.
Oxen 58. 59.

— (Romsdalsfjord) 197.
0x0 (near Christiansand)

40.
Odakra 290.
0degaard 173.
#demarks-Sj0 280.
Oderhbg 307.
0en 107.

— Penins 217.
Ofre Fryken 312.

— Holn 280.

— Nadden 366.
jOTtsnus-Fos 57.
Ofvedskloster 396.
Ofver Tornea 274.
Ofverum 309.
Ofvra Asen 366.
J0riangen, Lake 135.
0iangensh0i 134.
0iangensj0 95.
0ibergsfos 162.

0ie (Norangsfjord) 176.

— (Lserdal) 99.
0ieren, Lake 274.
0ierhavn 57.
J0fiestad 48.
J»ifjord 61.
0ifjordsfjeld 61.
J&ifjordsvand 61.
0igaard 98.
0je-Sseter 88.
0ilo 95.

J&inesgavlen 241.
J&istenvatten 30.
J0jaradn 115.
Jgrksendal 168.
J&ksendalen 173.
J^ksendals-Elv 168.
Oksfjord 258.
Oland 392.

01en 52. 50.
01enfjord 52.
jOlken 94.
Olme 312.

INDEX.

419

Ona 291.
Orbyhus 363.
J0Tre56. 173.
0rebsekke 48.
Orebro 313.
#renfes 190.
J^rjesseter 164.
0rje-Sj<* 280.
0rkedal 210.
0rkedalS0ren 206. 210.
0rkla 210.
J»rland 232.
Ornskbldsvik 374.
Orsjo 391.
j»rsj«r 280.
#rskog 188.
jarrskogdal 188.
0rsten 175.
tfrstendal 175.
J^rstenfjord 175.
0rstenvik 175.
J»rsvaag 247.
fifrterdalen 86.
jBrterenvand 86.
Ortofta 386.
fifrveella 22.
Ostad 282.
OstanfoTS 366.
Ostavall 370.
0stefjord 185.
J0fsten, Lake 296.
0stenfjeldske Norge 43.
J0stens0 58.
Jtfsteraa 232.
Osterby 363.
0sterdalen 212.
Osterplana 296.
j0Tster-Ris0er 38.
Osterrodshalan 282.
Ostersund 371.
Oster-Tibble 353.
0stervaagen 44.
Ostervik 368.
#stmanlid Saeter 30.
J»stnses 172.
0strabo 390. 88.
0stre Hegge 224.
0strein 49.
tfstre Slidre 94.
J0stre Slidre Elv 134.
Ost-Surasjo 366.
09tvaag0 247. 248.
0stvik 224.
J»veraas 204. 173.
tfverberg 170.
J»verby 252.
J»verste-Dal 113.
J0fvrebodal 181.
0vreb0sseter 146.
J»vre Eide 190.
Ovre Flo-Seeter 186.
J&vregaard 107.

0vre Strandefjord 87.

— Vand 242.

— Vasenden (Gravens-
vand) 80.

— Vasenden (J0lster-
vand) 182.

0xna 212.
Oxnered 293.
^tinder 236.
0y 34.
0ye 95.
J^ygaardene 25.

Paddeby 268.
Palajokko 273.
Partilled 294.
Pasvik 270.
Pasvikelv 270.
Paternoster-Skar 283.
Paulsvand 182.
Pakila 377.
P&lsboda 297.
Pello 274.
Persberg 313. 365.
Piggejavre 272.
Pilgrimstad 371.
Pipertind 256.
Pitea 375.
Pjeskajaur 242..
Plana, Vester, Oster, and

Medel 296.
Polfos 163.
Polhems Sluss 291.
Pollen 257.
Polvand 163.
Porla Helsobrunn 297.

313.
Porsangerfjord 263.
Porsangernses 264.
Porsgrund 33.
Porten (Suledalsvand) 48.
Prsestebakke 280.
Praestedal 184.
Prsestegaard (Bod0) 240
Prsestegaards-Sseter 180.
Prsestekampen 121.
Prsesthus (Soknedal) 210.
Pr?est0 166.
Predikstol 301.
Presteholtaul 86.
Prestesseter 149.
Prestesteinvand 150.
Prestfors 366.
Presttagten 367.
Prins Oscars Udsigt 17
Pruglaa 236.
Pruglheibro 239.
PuddeQord 70. 77.
Puko 296.
Purki-Jaur 376.

Qvarna 371.
Qvarnholmen 391.

Qvickjock 376.
Qvieksund 353.
Qvidinge 388.
Qvistrum 283.

Raa 260.
Raade 276.
Raadfjeld 183.
Raaen, Gaard 86.
Raamand 176.
Raamand9gj0l 176.
Raastad 31.
Rafsbotn 258.
Raftelandet 269.
Raftsund 244. 248.
St. Ragnhilds Kalla30o.
Rago-Njarga 266.
Ragunda 371.
Rake 184.
Rakkestad 276.
Rambferen 114. 116.
Ramberg 89.
Ramfjord 174.
Ramlosa 385. 388.
Ramlosabrunn 388.
Rammelklava 282.
Ramnas 316. 366.
Ramsaa 249.
Ramsjo 370.
Rams0 232.
Ranmndershall 305.
Randal 237.
Randeberg 51.
Randi-Jaur 376.
Randkloveskaaret 396.
Randselv 19. 92.
Randsfjord 92.
Randsvserk 129.
— Sfeters 131.
Ranenfjord 236.
Rangaatind 204.
Rangsunda 238.
Ranheim 222.
Rankhyttan 366.
Rans 385.
Ransater 312.
Rapisvari 242.
Rasten 213.
Ratan 374.
Rauberg 34.
Raubergsholten 106.
Raubergsatul 147.
Raudal 141.
Raudalsbrse 162.
Raudalselv 141.
Raudalshoug 141.
Raudalsmund 141.
Raudalstinder 141.
Raudalsvand 162.
Raudegg 165.
Raudnses 102.
Ranegg 110.
Raufjord 135.

27*

420

INDEX.

Raufjordsheim 135.
Rauland 24.
Rauma 126. 199.
Rausdalssseter 105.
Rauskarfjeld 108.
Rauskj0ldvand 150.
Ravnedal 40.
Ravnedjnpet , or Ravne-

juvet 35.
Ravnefjeld 191.
Ravnehei 40.
Racksta 351.
Rafsnas 350.
Rfegefjord 43.
Rseknses 195.
Reeknseshaug 195.
Rallsa 314.
Ramen 366.
Kiemmen 278.
Rappe 390.
Rarod 385.
Rattviken 368.
Rabacken 375.
Raback 296.
Ralangen, Lake 307.
Ranea. 376.
Rannum 292.
Rannumsbro 293.
Rashult 384.
Rastok 281.
Ravarpen 280.
Red 183.

Refnrestangen 109.
Refsundssjo 371.
Refvinge 289.
Reiersdal 41.
Reimersholm 298. 348.
Rein 232.
Reinaa 222.
Reina-Nut 55.
Reinaskard Nuten 49.
Reindalstind 239.
Reindalsvik 239.
Reine 247.
Reinlid 90.
Rein«r 255.
Reipen 177.
Reisseter 57.
Reitan 215.
— , Gaard 204.
Reiten, Gaard 126.
Reitsteen 215.
Rekarne 353.
Rekkingsnuten 30.
Relling 201. 187.
Rem, Gaard 187.
Rembesdalsfos 62.
Rembesdalsvand 62.
Remmen, Gaard 200.
Rena 213.
Rengen, Lake 308.
Renne90 51.
Ren0 266.

Repvaag 264.
Revihorn 169.
Riddarfjarde 298.
Riddarsvik 356.
Ridderhyttan 315.
Riddersprang 129.
Rido 350.
Rige, Gaard 41.
Riinggadn-Ssetre 160.
Riingsbotn 160.
Riingsbrse 160.
Riingstinder 159. 160.
Rimbo 362.
Rimforsstrbm 308.
Rinda 131.
Rindalen 206.
Rindalshorn 164. 190.
Rindebakken 35.
Rindenelv 129.
Rindo 352.
Rindas^eter 129.
Ringebo 122.
Ringedalsvand 68.
Ringerifos 56.
Ringkollen 19.
Ringnsesseeter 131.
Ring0en 63.
Ringsaker 120.
Ringsjb 385.
Ringstorp 309.
Ringvads0 254. 255.
Riondefos 111.
Risagrotte 236.
Risbo-Elv 30.
Rise (Driva Valley) 209

— (J0rundfjord) 175.

— (Nordgulen) 167.
Risnefjord 117.
RiS0havn 249.
Ritsen 206.
Ritterknsegten 396.
Rjukande Fos 85.
Rjukanfos 23.

— , Lille 35.
Roaldkvam 29. 41. 48.
Robertsholm 364.
Roboltfjeld 34.
Rockebro 307.
Rognan 242.
Rognses 212.
Rogne 134. 94.
Rogslb'sa 307.
Roklenut 66.
Rokomborre 252.
Roldjar 250.
Rolfsa 288.
Rolfshus 83.
Rolfs0 261.
Rolfsflhavn 261.
Roma, Monastery 382.
Rombak-Fjord 250.
Romedal 175.
Romeleklint 388.

Romenses 34.

Romerike 113.

Romfogkjserringerne 209.

Rommedal 114.

Rommehest 114.

Romsdal 199.

Romsdalsfjord 196.

Romsdalshorn 200. 197.

Romsdalsstue 271.

Rondane 213.

Rondeslot 213.

Ronehamn 382.

Ronene 40.

Rosenborg 384.

Rosendal (near Stock-
holm) 345.
(Hardangerfjord) 56.

Rosersberg 355.

Rosnaas 65.

Rosnses 240.

Rosshyttan 369.

Rossvalen, Lake 314.

Rostafjeld 252.

Rostavand 252.

Rotebro 355.

Rothoug 77.

Rotkniet 239.

Rotosbjerg 122.

Rotsund 257.

Rottnaelf 312.

Rottneros Bruk 312.

Rotvold 222.

Rovijaur 243.

Roxen, Lake 304.

R«ld 202. 278.

Rtfdberg 206.

R0dbergs-Sa?ter 147.

R0dbjerget (near Thrond-
hjem) 232.

R0dbjergtind 256.

Rbdesund 296.

Rtfdevseg 265.

Rbdgafvel 301.

Rodgafvels Grotto 300.

— Port 301.

R0dhammer 224.

Rtfdhellerfjeld 26.

R0di 192.

RjSdningen, Gaard 200.

R«fd0 239.

R0dsset 188.

Riardsheim 146.

R0dsund 233.

R0dungsvand 25.

R0dvaselv 236.

R0dvenfjord 198.

R0en 94.

Rogle 289.

R0ikedal 107.

R0ikedalsbr8e 106.

R0ise 61.

R0jshjem 146.

R0ken 16.

INDEX.

421

R/jkenses 52.
Rtfkjeskaalvand 162.
Rsrldal 30. 49. 68.
Ruldalsaaten 30.
Rflldalsvand 30. 49. 67.
Rermmen 278.
Refneid 104. 106.
Ronnaa 289.
Rbnne 396.
Rtfraas 214.
R/Jrhusdal 185.
RlJrhuanibba 185.
Rflrnsestind 256. 257.
Rtfros 214.
R0r0 235. 234.
Rtfrstad 176.
Roratrand 346. 314.
R0rvik 180. 233.
Rtfsaa 235.
Rosaajjrren 235.
Rpake 223.
Rsrst 248.
Rtfsvand 235.
Rtfsvik 244.
Rtfvdefjord 170.
Rugaund 168.
Ruklenut 65.
Ruksisvaggegaissa 257.
Rullenut 61.
Rullestad 53.
Rundal 111.
Rundalselv 111.
Rundhorn 164.
Rundvaahflgda 213.
Runn-Sjo 364. 366.
Runsa 356.
Runatenskyrka 392.
Ruaglop 143.
Ruakola 274. 377.
Rualienssetre 142.
Russaelv 142.
Ruaae Rundhtf 142.
Ruatdalen 39.
Rusteggen 137.
Ruaten (Bseverdal) 149.

— (Gudhrandadal) 124.

— (ravine) 124.
Ruatenfjeld 124.
Ruaten-Sseter (Bseverdal)

149.
Rustaren 193. 182.
Rust«ffjeld 193.
Ruavand 143.
Ruavaabod 143.
Rute 382.
Ruten 252.
Rnyttotjock 266.
Ryd 384.
Rydboholm 288.
Ryfoa 106.
Ryfylke 45.

Rygge (Snialenene) 276.
Ryggen (Dalecarlia) 361.

Ryghydna 191.
Rybaugen 208.
Rypekjern 143.
Ryr 293.
Rysfjseren 169.
Ryaaby 383.
Ryvardens Fyr 52.

Saatborn 164.
Sadelegeu 181.
Sadelfjeld 97.
Sadlen (near Hammerfeat)

259.
Sadva Lake 243.
Sagansea 109.
Sagatun 119.
Sagfjord 249. 244.
Saggat-Jaur 376.
Sagvande 249.
Saksa 176.
Sala 369.
Salajsekna 242.
Salangenfjord 251.
Salen, Lake 383.
Salien-Sieter 129.
Salmis 376.
Salsta 363.
Salstad 294.
Saltdal (Saltenfjord) 242

237.
Saltdalselv 242.
Salten 239.
Saltenfjord 239. 241.
Saltkallan 283.
Saltkjelnsea 113.
Saltnseasanden 206. 210.
Saltsjo 352.
Saltstnzrm 241.
Samlebovd 58.
Samlekolle 58.
Samnangerfjord 58.
Sand (Sandsfjord) 47. 42
Sanddalsfjeld 181.
Sanddalsvand 183.
Sande (Holmedal) 179.

— (near Drammen) 31.

— (Loenvand) 191.
Sandefjord 31. 38.
Sandeid 50.
Sandeidfjord 50.
Sandelv 157.
Sanden (Tinnsjfl) 23.
Sandene 168.
Sandenibben 191.
Sander 275.
Sandferbua 222.
Sandfjeld 181.
Sandfjord 265.
Sandfoa 47.
Sandhamn 353.
Sandhorn 239.
Sandnses(Stavangerfjord)

43.

Sandnses (Nordland) 240.

— (Oldenvand) 193.
Sandnaesgren 235.
Sandok 36.

Sandu (near Stadt) 169.
Sandsfjord 45.
Sandsjo 383.
Sandatangen 275.
Sandstp 64.
Sandtorv 250. 247.
Sandum Sseter 83.
Sandvser 265.
Sandven (Norbeimssund)
57.

— (Sandvenvand) 65. 66.
Sandvenvand 65. 66.
Sandvig, Gaard 243.
Sandvik (Stadtland) 170.
Sandviken (near Gelle)

364.

— (near Cbriatiania) 14.
37.

— (near Bergen) 76.
Sandviksfjeldet 70.
Sangerfjeld 25. 86.
Sannesund 277.
Sarabraaten 13.
Sarektjokko 242.
Sarpen, Fall 170
Sarpaborg 277.
Sarpafoa 277.
Sartorp 54.

Saude 49.
Saudefjord 49.
Saudeborn 175.
Saue-Nuten 55. 67.
Sauerelv 34.
Saugo 278.
Saurdal 170.
Saurdalsgaarde 170.
Saurdalsvatn 170.
Sautzofoase 272.
Saxaklep 57.
Saxenvik 242.
Sseb0 (Jtfrundfjord) 17a.

— (J^ifjordsvand) 61.
Sabyo308.

Safjaa 356.
Safsjo 383.
Safsjostrom 391.
Siifstaholm 297.
Safvea 294.
Sseheimsdal 101.
Ssekken 196. 203.
Ssekkenses 203.
Seelbo 222.
Sselbofjord 134.
S£elbo-Sj0 222.
Sater(Dalecarlia) 370.
Sseterbrae 192.
Sffiterfjeld 191.
Sa>terland 234.
'Ssetermcen 252.

422

INDEX.

Sseternses 168.
Ssetersdal (nearChristian-

sand) 40.
Sseterst0en 275.
Ssetervand 202.
Ssetna>s 199.
Ssetnesfjeld 199.
Ssetredal (Nebbedal) 177.
Ssevli 25.
Seckestad 296.
Seeljesseterhom 185.
Seffle 364.

— Canal 317. 364.
Segea. 388.
Seglingsberg 366.
Segmon 364.
Seida 269.
Seidafjeld 269.
Seierstad 233.
Seiland 258. 260.
— , Glaciers of 261.
Seim i Graven 80.
Selander 371.
SelaB 351.
Selbu-Sj0 222.
Selje 169.

Selje0 169.

Seljestad i Odde 30.

67.
Seljestadjnvet 30. G7.
Selleland 48.
Selsnut 56.
Sels0vig 238.
Sem (Snaasenvand) 224.

— (near Ttfnsberg) 31.
Semb 31.

Sembla 365.
Semlaan 371.
Semmelaa 144.
Semmelhul 144.
Semmeltind 141. 144.
Semletind 200.
Semsa 371.
Senjehest 250.
Senjen 250. 251.
Senum 41.
Seutlvarre 252.
Seven Sisters 235.
Sevlefos 110.
Sexe 64.
Siggen 52.
Signildsberg 357.
Sigtuna 357.
Sigurdsrud 23.
Sikfors 365.
Sikkildals-Elv 128.
Sikkildalshorn 128.
Sikkildalssarter 128.
Sikkildalsvande 128.
Sildefjord 56.
Silden 258.
Siljan, Lake 368.
Siljansnas 368.

Siljord 27.

Siljordsvand 27. 34.

Sillen, Lake 297.

Simlehul , see Semmel-
hul.

Simlenaasi 161.

Simlenses 109.

Simoa 18.

Simodal 62.

Simogalfos 159.

Simon9tad i Aamlid 34
39.

Simonstorp 310.

Simrishamn 396.

Sinarp 289.

Sindre 184.

Singeloer 282.

Singsaas 215.

Sira 43.

Siradal 203.

Sirakirke 203.

Siredal 43.

Siredalsvand 43.

Sjau-Ssetcr 57.

Sjerpenut 110.

Sjerping 1 10.

Sjoa 123. 129. 131. 142.

Sjodal 129. 131.

Sjodalsvand 129. 142.

Sjortningsbrse 141.

Sj0d0len 204.

Sjoholm 297.

Sj0holt 188.

Sj0rdalsfos 57.

Sj0rssetervand 202.

Sj0strand 114.

Sjcitorp 296.

Sjovik 384.

Sjurs0en 13.

Sjuseet 57.

Skaalabrse 165.

Skaalan 165. 184. 189.

Skaalebrse 191.

Skaalesaeter 112.

Skaalfjeld 191. 192.

Skaalland 240.

Skaanses 223.

Skaard, Gaard 176.

Skaare 165.

Skaaren 102.

Skaarene 108.

Skabersjo 395.

Skabo 123.

Skadset 83.

Skaftoland 283.

Skagagjel 159.

Skagastple 160.

Skagast0lsbotn 160. 161.

Skagast0lsbrse 160. 161.

Skagast0lsdal 161.

Skagast0lstind 103. 160.

Skagern-Sjo 296.

Skager Rak 281.

Skaggeflaa, Gaard 186.
Skaggeflaafos 186.
Skaidi 243.
Skalka-Jaur 376.
Skallen 236.
Skalsja 223.
Skalstugan 223.
Skammedalsh0idn 110.
Skanor 395.
Skansberg 293.
Skansen 366.
Skara 295.
Skardh0 130.
Skare 67.
Skarfven 356.
Skarhult 396.
Skarnses 275.
Skarnsund 224.
Skarpsno 11.
Skarpstr0mmen 35.
Skarsfjord 239.
Skarsfos 67.
Skarstenfjeld 183. 184.
Skarstind 158.
Skarsvand 26.
Skatestr0m 168.
Skat0ren 255.
Skattkar 312.
Skauta 153.
Skautaelv 131. 145.
Skautefos 153.
Skautflyene 131.
Skauth0 145.
Skavle Nut 49.
Skavlikollen 251.
Skalby 391.
Skiiralid 385.
Skiirkind 309.
Skane 384. 393. 387.

395.
Skare 312.
Skeaker 162. 187.
Skeback 314.
Skei 182.

Skeidkampen 121.
Skeiseeter 121.
Skeje i Hjasrdal 27.
Skelderviken 289.
Skelleftea 374. 243.
Skenige 307.
Skepperkroken 289.
Ski 276.
Skibotten 257.
Skien 33.
Skienselv 33. 34.
Skilbred 180.
Skilbredsvand 180.
Skillebotn 234.
Skinegg 137.
Skiriaxlen 200.
Skisseter 62.
Skjangli 250.
Skjseggedal 68.

INDEX.

423

Skjseggedalafos 69.
Skjseggestad 122.
Skjselvik 65.
Skjaerdalen 168.
Skjsergehavn 117. 166.
Skjseringen 168.
Skj serringsdal 165.
Skjsersurden 187.
Skjservtf 257.
Skjeberg 278.
Skjeidesnipa 114.
Skjeldal, Gaard 58.
Skjelnses 56.
Skjerdal 111.
Skjerpa 239.
Skjerstad 241.
Skjerstadfjord 241.
Skjervefos 90.
Skjerveselv 80.
Skjervet 80.
Skjoldebavn 249. 247.
Skjolden 103. 105. 158.
Skjoldfjeld 95.
Skjolen 198.
Skjolten 198.
Skjombotn 250.
Skjomenfjord 250.
Skjortan 182. 203.
Skjanne 25.
Skj0nstu 242.
Skj0nstudal 242.
Skj0rafjord 232.
Skj0tningberg 265.
Skoddals-Fj seren 63.
Skodsborn 95.
Skofjiird 357.
Skogadal 152. 156.
Skogadalab0en 156. 153.
Skogadalsnaasi 156.
Skogefos 200.
Skoger0 270.
Skogfrudal 236.
Skogshorn 84.
Skoga0 249.
Skogstad 96. 138.
Skogatorp 354. 314.
Skokloster 357.
Skole 105.
Skollenborg 19.
Skonevikfjord 52.
Skonningsfos 279.
Skopum 31.
Skorgedal 189.
Skorpen 56. 257.
Skorvefjeld 27.
Skotgaarden 214.
Skotselven 18.
Skotaflord 244.
Skotstinder 244. 248.
Skottorp 289.
Skouger 31.
Skougumsaas 14. 37.
Skiifde 296.

Skonvik 311.
Skriicka 366.
Skrseatna 169.
Skrsedderdal 77.
Skredevand 182.
Skredja-Fjeld 207.
Skredvand 35.
Skreiafj eld or Skreia-

kampen 118. 211. 212.
Skreifjord 261.
Skridulaupbrse 1G3.
Skriken 113.
Skrikjofos 64.
Skrimsfjeld 20.
Skroven 247.
Skrutvold 134.
Skudesnses 51.
Skudeanseahavn 51.
Skudeviken 76.
Skulgamtinder 254.
Skultorp 296.
Skurdal 25.
Skurugata 393.
Skurup 395.
Skurusund 352. 353.
Skutskar 363.
Skykjedalsfos 63.
Skyllingaryd 289.
Skylstad 177.
Skylatadbrekken 177.
Skyrifjeld 95.
Skytjefos 62.
Slaggen 367.
Siangan 128.
Slaebende 15.
Slatbaken 305.
Sletflykamp 162.
Sletmarkh«r 136. 137.

140.
Sletnses 265.
Slettafos 201.
Slettedal 49. 175.
Slettefjeld 101.
Sletten 52.
Sletterust 96. 102.
Slidre, Vestre & 0slre

94.
Slidreaas 94.
Slidrefjord 94.
Sliparebacken 386.
Sliper 209.
Slite 382.
Slitu 276.
Slogen 176. 177.
Slondalsvand 60.
Slottet 37.
Sloinge 289.
Slyngsfjord 188.
Slyngstad 188.
Smaadal 146.
Smaadalssseter 146.
Smaad0]a 84. 131.
Smaaget, Defile 155

Smaastr«rm 270.
Smaampllen 77.
Smalaberg 159.
Smaland 383.
Smedby 391.
Smeddal 97.
Smeddalsvand 97.
SmedjeS 289.
Smedjebacken 365.
Smetbak Sseter 86.
Smiugjela 146.
Smogehornet 187.
Smiigen 282.
Smtflen 173.
Sm0rbottenfjeld 197.
Smtfrbringa 265.
Sm0rdal 171.
Sm0rhu], Soeter 135.
Sm0rlidaaeter 146.
Sm/jrskredfjeld 177.
Smizfratabbrse 150. 158.
Sm0ratabtindernel41. 150.

157. 161.
Sm0rvik 119.
Smytte Sseter 87.
Snaasenvand 224.
Snarum 82.
Snarumselv 18. 82.
Snaufjeld 188.
Snebsettan 208.
Sneborn 175.
Snebulstind 137. 141.
Snejerak 376.
Snenipa 183.
Snerle 123. 129.
Snetuen 184.
Snilstbvelt 56.
Snovelstorp 305.
Snusborn 187.
Sofiero 389.
Sofietind 256.
Sogge 199.
Soggesseter 187.
Sogndal (Jaederen) 43.
— (Sognefjord) 113.
Sogndalselv 113.
Sogndalsfjord 104. 1J3.
Sogndalsvand 113.
Sognefeat 117.
SogneQord 99.
Sognesj0 117.
Soknaelv 211. 215.
Soknedal 211.
Solberga 307.
Solbj0rg 57.
Solbj0rgenut 110.
Sole 45.

Soleitinder 160. 102. 159.
Solfjeld 56.
Solbaug 12.
Solheimsfjeld 26.
Solbeimsheia 180. 181.
Solbelmsviken 77.

424

INDEX.

Solleftea 374. 371.
Sollentunaholni 355.
Sollerbn 368.
Solliden 122. 213.
Solna 346. 355.
Solntfi-dal 188.
Solnut 55.
Solovom 272.
So]0en 237. 240.
Solsi-Steter 60.
Solsivand 60.
Solvaagfjeld 237. 243.
Solvaagtind 243.
Solvorn 103.
Sommen 307.
Sommera 249. 247.
Somnhoved 235.
Soner 276.
Songa 33. 34.
Soon 37. 27G.
Sorsele 236.
Sortland 249. 247.
Sortlandsund 249.
Sotaseeter 162.
Sotefjord 282.
Sotenas 282.
Sottem, Lake 297. 309.
Sound, the 388. 393.
Stfberg 215.
Stfboden 27. 34.
Sbderas 385. 290.
Siiderbarke 365.
Siiderfjard 373.
Sbderfors 363.
Siiderhamn 373. 370.
Suderkoping 305.
Sodermanland 297.
Sodertelge 297. 306.
Siidra Barken 365.

— Horken 365.

— Staket 353.
S0gnesandsnipa 182.
Stfholt 188.
Stfkelven 188.
Sjzrlen 213.
Strlsnses 198. 203.
Sfllvbergfjeld 183.
Solvesborg 385.
Sflmnaes 234.
Stfndenfjeldske 43.
Stfndfjord 166. 180.
Sond-Horland 52. 166.
S«fndm0re 174. 169.
Stfndre Birkedal 171.

— Fron 122.

— Garthus 90.

— Tvferaa 142.
Sunnerlieim 88.
Stfnnerheimsgalder 88.

111.
S0nstevold 121.
Scirby 294.
Stfrdal 250.

Sjjre Vartdal 174.

S/jrefjord 78.

S0rfjord 54. 63. 55. 256.

Serrfolden 244.

Surkedalselv 14.

Stfrkjos 257.

S0T0 258.

Siirqvarn 366.

Sbrstafors 366.

Serrsund 258.

SUrum (Gudbrandsdal)

129.
— (Valders) 89.
Sizrrumfjeld 89.
Stfrvig 233.
Sosdaia 385.
Stfstrene 199.
Sfltorp 123.

S/»vde (Fortundal) 159.
Spvdefiord (Stfndmjjre)

70.
Sjjveien 252.
S«rvik (Alsten) 235.
Spaadomsnut 27.
Spangereid 43.
Sparreholm 297.
Spanga 316.
Speko 291.
Sperle 107.
Sperletfen 107.
Spevlingsholm 289.
Spillum 224.
Spirillen, Lake 89.
Spirta-Njarga 264.
Spiterstulen 145.
Spjosodd 34.
Sperrtegbrce 106. 107.
Sprangdal 162.
Spydeberg 37G.
Staavand 29. 30.
Stabbefonn 186.
Stabben 173. 206.
Stabbensfyr 167.
Staberg 130.
Stadt, Promont. 169.
Stadtland 169.
Stafre 371.
Stafsfjarden 354.
Stafsinge 288.
Stafsnas 353.
Stafsnuten 30.
Stai 213.
Stalkeim 81.
Stalheimsfos 110.
Stalheimsklev 110. 81.
Stamnses 235.
Stampestrbmsfall 292.
Stamsund 248. 247.
Stana 65.
Standal 175.
Stange 212.
Stangenses 266. 269.
Stangensesfjeld 266.

Stangfjord 167.
Stanghelle 79.
Stanghellestrtfm 79.
StanglandaQeld 117.
Stangvik 206.
Stantind 254.
Stappene 262.
Stardal 182.
Stathelle 38.
Statt, Promont., see

Stadt.
Stattland, see Stadtland.
Stav 122.
Stavanger 44.
Stavangerfjord 43.
Stavberg-Ssetre 177.
Stavbergsvand 177.
Stavbrekkene 164. 187.

165.
Staven, Fjeld 177.
-, Hill 30.
Stavfjord (Fiafrdefjord)

167.
— (Foldenfjord) 244.
Stavilla-Elv 211.
Stavnses 167.
Stavsset 176.
Stavstetflu 176.
Stakeholm 309.
Staket 316. 356.
Stiillberg 314.
Stalldalen 314. 365.
Stanga 382.
Stanga (river) 308.
Stangebro 308.
Stangenses 282.
Stedfjord 249.
Stedje, Gaard 113.
Stedtind 249.
Steen 15.
Steensfjord 15.
Stegafjeld 187. 101.
Steganaase 109. 111.
Stegane 187.
Stegeborg 305.
Stegen (Engeljj) 244.
Stegfjord 238.
Stegsseter 111.
Stehag 385.
Steien 208.
— , Gaard 113.
Steig, Gaard 122.
Steinbergdal 87.
Steinbodsj0 95.
Steindal 151.
Steindalselv 153.
Steine 58.
Steinsdal 57.
Stelleborg 386.
Stellefjeld 135.
Stemme 172.
Stemshesten 172.
Sten 197.

INDEX.

425

Stenbjerg 218.
Stende (Strandefjord) 84.
Stene i B«f 249.
— i Lofoten 247.
— , Gaard CSjodal) 129.
Stenegbrse 159.
Stenhammar 297.
Stenlnge 289. 357.
Stenjiittar 382.
Stenkjser 224.
Stennses 176.
Stenssetfjeld 179.
StensS 289.
Stenso 391.
Sten8torp 295.
Stenungsii 283.
Stensvig 206.
Stensvik 170. 173.
Stenviken 213.
Stigersand 119.
Stigtomta 354.
Stikle8tad 223.
Stilvasaa 236.
Stjernarp 305.
Stjernhof 297.
Stjernholm 355.
Stjernjar 258.
Stjernsund 258.
Stjernvik 284.
Stjtfrdalsfjord 222.
Stockaryd 383.
Stockholm 316.

Academy of Arts 330.

— of Science 333.

Agricultural Museum
330.

Alkarret 343. 344.

Almanna-Grand 343.

Art Union 321. 329.

Artilleri-Museum 329.

Bankers 319.

Barracks 329.

Baths 321. 328.

Baltespannare 341.

Beckholmen 345. 323.

Bellevue 347.

Bellman's Eo 344.

Belvedere 345.

Bergskola 333.

Berzelii Park 329.

Blasieholin 323.

Blasieholms - Hamn
330.

Blockhusudde 345.

Bridges 323. 328.

Brunkebergs Torg 330.

Cabs 319.

Cafe's 318.

Camp, Training 329.

Carolinska Institut
345.

Castle Island 343.

Cemetery 346.

Stockholm:

Churches :

Adolf Fredriks Kyrka
333.

English Church 322.
333

German Church 326.

Jacobs Kyrka 329.

Katarina 342.

Klara 330.

Riddarholms 327.

Solnakyrka 346.

Storkyrka 325.

Tyska Kyrka 326.

Ulrica Eleonora 345.
Confectioners 319.
Consulates 319.
Danvik 343.
Djurgard 344. 323g
Drottninggata 330.
English Church 322.

333.
Environs 343.
Exchange 326.
Frisens Park 344.
Governor's House 325.
Guard House 324.
Gustaf Adolfs Torg

328.
Gymnastic Institution

330
Haga'347. 346.
Hammers Villa 344.
Harbour 345.
Hasselbacken 344.
Helgeandsholmen 323.
Hotels 316.
Karlberg 346.
Karl den Tolftes Torg

329. 352.
Kasteilkolmen 323. 343.
Katarina Hissen 342.
Konstforening 329.
Komhamnstorg 326.
Kott Torg 326.
Kungsholmen 323. 345.
KungstradgSrd 329.
Ladugardslandet 323.

329.
Landtbruks Akademi

330.
Linne Park 333.
Logards Trappan 352.
Lunatic Asylum 346.
Manilla 345.
Marieberg 345. 346.
Malaren, Lake 322.

348.
Maria Hissen 343.
Military Hospital 345.
Mint 324. 345.
Monuments :

Bellman 344.

Stockholm :

Monuments :

Berzelius 329.

Birger Jarl 328.

Charles XII. 329.

Charles XIII. 329.

Charles XIV. John
342.

Gustavus Vasa 326.

GustavusAdolfus 328.

Gustavus III. 325.

Linnceus 334.
Mosebacken 342.
Munkbro 326.
Music 321.
Nackanas 343. 347.
National Library 333.
National Museum 334.

Antiques 334. 336.

Ceramic Collection
335.

Coins 335.

Drawings 339.

Egyptian Collection
337.

Engravings 339.

Furniture 337.

Historical Museum
334.

Picture Gallery 337.

Sculptures 336.
Natural History Col-
lection 333.
Norrbro 323.
Norrmalmen 323.
Norrtulls-Gatan 347<
Northern Museum 330,
Nybrohamn 352.
Observatory 333.
Ostermalm 323.
Palace, Royal 324.
— of the Crown Prince

329.
Petersenskahus 326.
Post Office 319. 330.
Railway Station 316.
Rantmastare-Trappa

348.
Radhuset 327.
Restaurants 318.
Riddarholmen 320. 323.

327.
Riddarhus 327. 346.
Riks-Archiv 328.
Riks-Bibliotek 333.
Riksdagshus 328.
Rosendal 345.
School of Mining 333.
Seraflmer Lazaret 345.
Shops 321.
Skating Club 343.
Skeppsbron 324.
Skeppsholmen 323. 343.

426

INDEX.

Stockholm :
Slojdskola 330.
Slott 324.
Slottsbacke 325.
Slussen 323. 342.
Soder-Malar-Strand

343.
Siidermalmen 323. 342.
Sbderstrbm 342.
Staden 323. 343.
Stallmastaregarden

346.
Steamboats 316. 320.
Stora Nygata 326.
Stortorg 326.
Stromparterre 318.

323.
Stromsborg 328.
Svea Hall 329.
Svea Kammerkollegiet

328.
Synagogue 330.
Tegelviken 348.
Technologicallustitute

333.
Telegraph Office 319.
Theatres 321. 329. 342.

344.
Tivoli 344.
Town Hall 327.
Tramways 319.
Tradgards Fiirening

345.
Ulriksdal 347.
Vasa 323.
Vasabro 323.
Vartanhamnen 345.
Stokke (Sseter, in the
Langedal) 102.

— (near Sandefjord) 31.
Stokmarknses 247. 249.
Stok0 232.
Stoksund 232.

Stora Aspen 365.

— Djulo 297.

— Essingen 348.

— Lee Sio 279. 281.

— Lule 375. 376.

— Ror 392.

— Sundby 314.

— Tuna 370.
Stora, 289. 305. 314.

— fin Sweden) 375.
371.

Storbaren 164. 187.
Stordal 108. 188.
Stordalsnses 188.
Stordalsvik 188.
Stord«r 52.
Store Aadal 140. 143.

— Bjtfrga 234.

— Finkirke 265.
Storebotnrand 167.

Storebro 393.
Storefond 30.
Store Graanaase 108.
- Grovbrae 149.
Storehammer 119.
Store Hest 180.

— Hinden 131.

— Juvbrse 149.

— Krsekjavand 86.

— Melkedalsvand 152.

— Nup 30.

— Skagastizrlstind 103.
160.

— Soknefos 98.

— Serlen 213.

— Strtfni 78.

— Suphellebrse 114.

— Toren 171.

— Utladal 141. 156.

— Varden 169.
Storeggen 171. 187.
Storeltffta 164.
Storelv 19. 182.

— (near Molde) 20'2.
Storemtflle 76.
Storfale 209.
Storfjeld 268.
Storfjord (S0ndni0re) 171.

185.

— (Velfjord) 234.

— (Lyngenfjord) 257.
Storfonn 63.
Storfors 313.
Storforshei 236.
Storfos (near Elvenses)

270.
Stor-Fosen 232.
Stor-Halleren 157.
Storhaetten 201.
Storhorn 175. 183.
Storho 126.
Storhoug (Sogndalsfjord)

112. 111.
Storhougen 105. 113.
Storjord 237. 243.
Storklevstad 123.
Storlien (Sseter, near

Maursset) 26. 84.

— (Leirdal) 149.

— (Sweden) 223. 372.
Storlivatn 170.
Stormdalsfos 237.
Stormdalshei 237.
Stornaase 108.
Stornes 235.
Stortfen 206.
Stor0ira 186.
StorsEeter 125.
Storsaeterfos 187.
Storsjo (near Gefle) 364.

(Jemtland) 309. 371.
Storsja (HallingdalJ 84.
Storskarven 215.

Storstennses (Balsfjord)
253.

— (Tromsdal) 254.
Storstr«rm 241.
Storsveen 90.
Stortoppen 242.
Stor Tuen 196.
Storvik (Sweden) 364.

370.

— (Vaagevand) 130.
Stor-Vreta 363.
St/aren i Kvikne 210.
Stjjlsnaasitinder 154. 156.

157.
Stjjnjumsfos 99.
Sttfren 211. 215.
St0rlaugpik 184.
Strand (Battenfjord) 173.

— (Eikisdal) 206.

— (Oldenvand) 193.

— (Tinnsj0) 23.

— (Vraadal) 35.
Strande (Fanefiord) 198.

202.
Strandebarm 57.
Strandefjord (Aurdal) 93.

— (Hallingdal)*84. 86. 85.

— (Vang) 95.
Strandelvsfos 203.
Stranden 177. 188.
Strandsfos 65.
Strsengen 34.
Straken, Lake 296.
Strllsnees 307.
Strangsjo 310.
Strengnits 351.
Striberg 312.
Strindenfjord 222.
Strondafjeld 107.
Strombu 213.
Str0en, Lake 83.
Strum (Skjerstadfjord)

241.
Strjzrmboden 213.
Stromma 384.
Stromma Canal 353.
Strizfmmen (Throndhjem

Fjord) 223.

— (near Lillestr/arm) 118.

— (Ssetersdal) 41.

— (near Seiland) 256.
258.

— (in Valders) 89.
Str/jmnses 257.
Str«rm«r 241.
Stromsa 282.
Stromsbotten 167.
Stromsholm 366. 315.

353.
Stromsholms Canal 365.
Strjermshavn 171.
Str«rmshorn 188.
Strjjmshylla 224.

INDEX.

427

Strtfmsmoen 252.
Strumsnaes (Altenfjord)
258.

— (Dalsfjord) 167.

— (Sundalsfjord) 173.
Str0ms«r 17.
Stromstad 282.
Strbmsvatn 282.
Str«ttnvand 143.
Strynsdal 190.
Strynselv 190.
Strynskaupe 191.
Strynsvand 190.
Studenternes Udsigt 17.
Stuefloten 201. 128.
Stuen (#rkeda]) 210.
Stugsund 370.
Stugunjjs 96.
Stuoranjarga 255.
Sturefors 308.
Sturehof, Chateau 349.
Stutgangen-Kamp 129.

— Sseter 129.
Stygfjeldet 213.
Styggebrse 145. 147.
Styggedalsbotn 153. 161.
Styggedalsbrse 153.
Styggedalselv 153.
Styggedalsnaasi 153.
Styggedal8tind 156. 155.

159. 153.
Stygg'efondsfos 200.
Styggehfl 145.
Styve 110.
Sukkertop (Hav0) 261.

— (Heser) 174.
Sulafjeld 233.
Suledal 41.

Suledalsvand 48. 41. 51.
Sulefjord 171. 174.
Suleim, Gaard 131.
Suleimssseter 145.
Sulentfer 117.
Suletind 96. 136.
Sulheim 148.
Sulitelma 242.

Sul0 188.

Sulstuen 223.

Sund (Elgafjord) 311.

— (Lofoden) 247. 248.
Sundal (Nordfjord) 162.

— (Nordmtfre) 209.
Sundalselv 185. 209.
Sundalsfjord 173. 209.
Snndalsflren 209. 173.
Sundby 242. 351.
Sundbyberg 316.
Sunddalsfjord 87. 206.
Sunde (Hardanger) 53.

— (Oldenvand) 193.

— (Snaasenvand) 224.

— (Strynsvand) 190.
Sunder/J 249.

Sundhellerfield 87.
Sundkilen 34.
Sundli 252.
Sundnses 223.
Sundre i Aal 86.
Sundsseter 136. 143.
Sundstrflm 241. 248.
Sundsvall 373. 371.
Sundvolden 15. 19.
Sunelven 185.
Sunelvsfjord 185. 187.
Sunnana 281.
Sunne 312.
Suolovuobme 272.
Suoppanjarg 269. 272.
Suphellebrse 114.
Suphelle-SfEter 104.
Surahammar 366.
Surendal 206.
Surendalstfren 173. 206.
Snrte 290.
Susea 289.
Susegarden 289.
Svaagen 30. 67.
Svaahp 162. 163.
Svaanuten 86.
Svajdalsbrse 159.
Svalperup 393.
Svandalsflaaene 30.
Svaneholm 395.
Svaneke 396.
Svanesjo 395.
Svanesund 283.
Svangstrandsvei 16. 15.
Svansfjord 280.
Svarta. 313.

river 307. 312. 314.
Svartbytdal 162.
Svartdal 136. 137. 143.
Svartdalsakael 137.
Svartdalseggen 144.
Svartdalsglupet 137.
Svartdalspigge 136. 137.

140.
Svartdtfla 137.
Svartediket 77.
Svartegelfos 98.
Svartenut 65.
Svartisen 238. 236.
Svartisvand 236.
Svartla 375.
Svartsjo 349. 356.
Svartvikfjeld 90.
Svarvestad 184.
Svserefjord 115.
Svseren, Gaard 115.
Svserholt 264.
Svserholtklubben 264.
Svserskard 115.
Svedala 388. 395.
Sveen (Dalsfjord) 167.

180.
— (Valders) 92.

Sveien 29.
Sveilnaasbrse 145.
Sveilnaasi 145. 147.
Sveilnaaspig 147.
Svelberg 68.
Svelvig 37.
Svengaardsbotten 87.
Sveningsdal 233. 234.
Svennses 94.
Svennesund 25.
Svennevad 309.
Svensbro 295.
Svenskenipa 182.
Svenskenvand 84.
Svenstorp 396.
Sverresborg (Tlirond-

hjem) 221.
Sverresti 111.
Sviddal 181.
Svinesund 282.
Svinta 26.
Svolvser 247.
Svolvserjuret 247.
Svonaae 208.
Sya 307.
Sydkrog0 232.
Sydvaranger 269. 270.
Sylte 187. 201.
Syltefjord 266.
Syltormon 187.
Syndin Lakes 94.
Synshorn 143.
Synsnibben 193.
Syrdalsfjeld 109. 111.
Syvajarvi 273.
Syv SOTtre 235.

Taberg 299.

Tabmokelv 252.

Tafjord 187. 201.

Talg0 49.

Talvik 258.

Tamstf 264.

Tana 266. 269. 272.

Tanafjord 266.

— Vestre and 0stre

266.
Tanahorn 266.
Tangen 17. 34. 119. 212.
Tanto 298.
Tanum 281. 282.
Tarajock 376.
Tarjebndal 30.
Tarv-0er 232.
Tau 47.
Tautra 223.
Tavsehydna 191.
Tannfors 372.
Tannsjcin 372.
Tagarp 385.
Takern Sju 307.
Tangen 282.
Tefsjo 370.

428

INDEX.

Tegelviken 362.
Teigen 107. 222.
Teigomatorp 385.
Telemarken 26.
Telgeviken 348.
Telnffis (Telemarken) 34.
— (Hedemarken) 214.
Tenhult 299.
Teraak 233.
Terningmoen 212.
Ter0 53. 55.
Tesseelv 130. 131.
Tessevand 130. 131. 14G.
Thelemarken 26.
Theseggen 24.
Thingvold 173. 206.
Thjerto 235.
Thordal 163.
Thorfinsdal 136.
Thorfmshul 137.
Thorflnstinder 136. 138.
Thorfmvand 58.
Thorsburg 377. 382.
Tborskiilla 353.
Thorsnut 55. 57. C4.
Thorstadnatten 113.
Tkorstrand 32.
Thorvik 198.
Thosdal, Gaard 233.
Thosbotn 233.
Thosenfjord 233.
Threnen 237.
Threnfjord 238.
Throndenses 250.
Thvondlijem 216.
Throndhjem Fjord 223.
Tbronkusfjeld 90.
Thrjzrndelagen 217.
Thveit, Gaard 62.
Thveite Kvitlngen 57.
Thveitnut 68.
Tiakersjo 2S1.
Tibro 296.
Tidaholm 295.
Tidan 296.
Tidingdal 234.
Tidingdalsfos 234.
Tierp 363.
Tierpsa, 363.
Tillberga 316.
Tilrum 235.
Tiltereid 202.
Tindefjeld 166.
Tindefjeldsbree 191.
Tingshog 362.
Tingvallao 312.
Tinnelv 21.
Tinnfoa 22.
Tinnoset 23.
Tlnsset 205.
Tinnsjtf 23.
Tisken, Lake 366.
Tialeivand 84.

Tistedal 279. 280.
Tistedalselv 278. 279. 280.
Tiveden 296.
Tjselhaug 191.
Tjselltf 250.
Tjsellsund 250.
Tjamatis 376.
Tjamatis-Jaur 376.
Tjelde 202.
Tjernagel 52.
Tjernd 368.
Tjolbnolni 288.
Tjongsfjord 239.
Tjose 32.
Tj0dling 32.
Tj0m0 31. 37.
Tjbrn 283.
Tjbrnarp 3S5.
Tjuffall 291.
Tjugum 115.
Tjukningssuen 142. 143.
Tjust 309.
Tobo 363.
Toftasjb 390.
Tofte 125.
Toftemoen 125.
Tokeelv 35.
Tokbeini 65. 56.
Tokheimsnut 65. 66.
Toldaa 237.
Toldaadal , Nedre and

0vie 237.
Tolfstad 129.
Tolgen 214.
Tolleifsrudkirke 90.
Tolovma 137. 139.
Tolormbod 139.
T0lta 250.
Tom 288.
Tomarp 386.
Tombtf 237.
Tomelilla 396.
Tomlevolden 92.
Tomrefjord 172.
Tomter 27U.
Tongjem 204.
Tonsaas 90. 92.
Topdalselv 40.
Topdalsfjord 40.
Toppii 291.
Torakella 57.
Torene 171.
Torenut 57.
Torgen 234.
Torget, Gaard 234.
TorgUsetta 234. 233.
Torkolmen-Vand 96. 102
Torbus 197. 203.
Tornea 377.
Tornea-Elf 273. 274.
Tornea-Treesk 274.
Turpa 288.
Torpshammar 373. 371.

Torrisdalselv 39.
Torsaker 370.
Torsby-Bruk 312.
Torsekile 277.
Tortuna 316.
Torungerne 39.
Torup 395.
Torvig 173.
Tosterb 351.
Totakvand 24.
Toten 118.

Ttfmmernaes 244. 246.
Ttfnjum 99. 112.
Tjjnna 214.
T0nnen 210.
Tunsset 214.
Ttfnsberg 31. 37.
Ttfnsbergs T0nde 38.
Tbreboda 296.
Torre Ovn 396.
Tosse 364.
Tusse 58.
T0tta 250.
Tranas 307.
Traneryd 307.
Trankilskyrka 279.
Trannbfjard 305.
Tran0 i Hammer 249.
Trangfors 366.
Trangsviken 371.
Tredal 116.
Trekanten 391.
Trelleborg 388.
Trellefos 61.
Trengereid 78.
Tresfjord 189.
Troldfjord 248.
Troldfjordsund 261.
Troldh0len 243.
Troldkirketind 188.
Troldstolene 197.
Troldtinder 200. 198.
Troldvand 115.
Trollabrug 22L.
Trolle Ljungby 385.
Trollenas 385.
Trollbatta, Waterfalls of

291.
Trolliiattan 290.
Trom0 38.
Trom0sund 38.
Tromsdal 253. 254.
Troms0 253.
Troms03und 253.
Tromstind 253.
Tronses (Hardangerfjord)

63.
— (Throndhiem Fjord)

223.
Tronfjeld 213.
Tronstad 185.
Trosa 297.
Trosso" 390.

INDEX.

429

Trtfen 213.
Troene 200.
Trtinninge 289.
Trutten 122.
Trydal 41.
Tryggestad 177. 185.
Tryggestad-Nakken 177.
Trygstad 118.
Tryssil 312.
Tryvandahtfide 12.
Tubbaryd 384.
Tudal 27.
Tuefjord 262.
Tuf 84.
Tufsen 159.
Tufte 86.
Tufttind 203.
Tuliknappen 122.
Tullgarn 297.
Tumba 298.
Tundal 113.
Tandradal 162.
Tundredalskirke 159.
Tune i Vang 95.
Tungen 83.
Tungenses 44. 51.
Tunghoug 156.
Tunhjervd 25.
Tunlurvdfjord 25. 83.
Tunold 190.
Tunsbergdal 108.
Tunsbergdalsbree 106.108,
Tunsbergdalselv 106.
Tunvald 180.
Tunvaldfjeld 180.
Turtegrtfdaseter 159. 151,
Tussenuten 176.
Tusten 196.
Tuatertf 173. 206.
Tustervand 235.
Tusvik 188.
Tutaryd 383.
Tutterd 223.
Tvseraa, Nordre and S0n

dre 142.
Tvserbottenhorn 157.
Tvserbrse 108.
Tvardala 310.
Tvaerdalabrse 106.
TvBerdalsklrke 160.
Tvrerfjeld 162. 163.
Tva&kev 288.
Tvede 34.

Tvedestrand 34. 39.
Tveithougen 62.
Tverberg 170.
Tverbrse 147.
Tvervik 240.
Tvet 34.
Tvetaxind 34.
Tvinde 81.
Tvindefos 116. 81.
Tvindehoug 139. 102.

Tydal 222.
Tydalsfjelde 222.
Tyin, Lake 139. 102. 155.
Tynnelso 351.
Tyrifjord 14. 18.
Tyadalavand 47.
Tysfjord 249.
Tysnsesfl 53.
Tyssaa 68.
Tyssedal 65. 68.
Tyssedalsnut 65. 68.
Tyssefos 176.
Tyssestrenge 69.
Tyatigbrse 165.
Tyttebfervik 256.
Tyven 260.
Tyvold 215.
Tyvshelleren 236.

TJberg 34.

Uddeholm 365. 312.
Uddevalla 293.
Uddnas 365.
Ugnsmunnar 384.
Ula 124.

Uladal (Jotunheim) 144.
(Gudbrandsdal) 213.
Uladalaband 144.
Uladalsmynnet 144.
Uladalatinder 144.
Uladalsvande 144.
Ulefoa 33.
Ulevaavand 30.
Ulevaabotten 60. 87.
Ulevasnut 87.
Ulfasa 304.
Ulfhall 352.
Ulfo 384.
Ulfafjord 255.
Ulfsnses 256.
VUsmes-0 79.
lTlfstind 255.
Ulfatorp 294.
Ullenhauge 45.
Ullensvang 64.
Ulleraater 314.
V\lv0 248.
Ulnses 94.
Ulnseskirke 84.
Vl0 257.

Ulrieehamm 298.
Ulriken 70. 77.
Ulriksdal 347.
Ulsaker 84.
Ulstenkloster 51.
Ultuna 356. 358.
Ulvaa 201.
Ulvedalsvand 201.
Ulvestad 115.
Ulvesund 169.
Ulvik 59. 80.
Ulviksfjord 58. 59.
Ulvin 211.

Umbugten 236.
Ume-Elf 374.
Umea 374.
Undal 42.
Undalselv 42.
Underdal 111.
Underaaker 372.
Underaakersa 372.
Upperudholja 280.
Uppharad 290.
Upsala 358.
— , Gamla 362. 363.
Urabjerget 156.
Uradal 155. 156.
Uradalamulen 155.
Uranaasbrse 138.
Uranaase 138.
Uranaastind 138. 136. 137.
Uranienborg 386.
Urbotten 66.
Urebjerg 248.
Urfjord 235.
Urnffs 104.
Uravik 374.
Urtfjeld 237.
Urtvand 236.
Uskedal 56.
Uatadal 25. 86.
Ustaelv 86.
Uatavand 86.
Uateberg 86.
Utberen i Siljord 27.
Utfjord 168.
Utigaard 204. 213.
Utigardsfos 192.
Utla 102. 158.
Utladal 155. 154. 141.
— , Vetle 156.
Utmeland 369.
Utne 58.
Utnefjord 58.
Uto 353.

Utrovand 95. 96.
Utaire 51.
Uttersberg 315.
Utviken 183.

Vaade Ovn 396.
Vaaer 23.
Vaag 70.

Vaage (Suledalavand) 47.
48.

— (Vaagevand) 129.
Vaageboden 141.
Vaagekalle 247.
Vaagen (Lofoten) 246.

— (Stavanger) 44.
Vaagestrand 197.
Vaagevand (Gudbranda-

dal) 129.

— (Nordland) 240.
Vaagsfjord (Nordfjord)

I 168.-

430

INDEX.

Vaagsfjord (Vesteraalen)

^50
Vaags'j* 169.
Vaalaelv 122.
Vaalandspiben 45.
Vaalhougen 122.
Vaarsti (DrivaValley)209,
Vaatedal 182. 183.
Vaberg 300.
Vadensjo 385.
Vadheim 116. 170.
Vadheimsdal 179.
Vadheiinsfjord 116.
Vadsbo 296.
Vadsbro 354.
Vadser 267.
— , Lille 268.
Vadstena 301. 307.
Vafos 28.
Vagge 269.
Vagsvik 188.
Vaiki-Jaur 376.
Vaikijaurby 376.
Valbjerget 44.
Valbo 364.
Valdai (Norddalsfjord)

187.
Valdeuiaren, Lake 297.
Valdertf 174.
Valders 92.
Valdersily 136. 143.
Valdershorn 89.
Valdersund 232.
Valegas-Javre 270.
Valla 297.
Vallakra 385.
Vallberga 289.
Vall0 37.
Vallsta 370.
Valosen 241.
Valskog 315. 353.
Vammeln, Lake 297.
Vanas 296.
Vanddal 107.
Vanelven 170.
Vanelvsfjord 170.
Vanelvsgab 169.
Vang 95.

Vangs Havseie 251.
Vangsen 107.
Vangsmjcrsen 95.
Vangsnses 114. 115. 95.
Vangsvand 58. 79.
Vannenvand 84.
Vannjj 256.
Vapno 289.
Vara 294.
Varaldsjar 56.
Varanger 266.
Varangerfjord 268. 266.
Varberg 61. 288.
Vardefjeld 267.
Vardekolle 16. 37.

Vardesjtf 208.
Vardtf 266.
Vardghus 267.
Vargsund 258.
Varjag-Njarga 266.
Varnhemskyrka 295.
Varnumsviken 312.
Var0 166.
Varpan, Lake 366.
Varpenses 202.
Vartdal, Stfre 174.
Vartdalsfjord 171. 174.
Vartofta 298.
Vasbygd 88. 111.
Vasbygdvand 88.
Vasdalsbrse 106.
Vasdalseggen 29.
Vasenden (Breumsvand)
183.

— (Espedalsvand) 128.

— (Gravensvand) 80.

— (Loenvand) 191.

— (Nedre and J0vre, J0l-
stervand) 181. 182.

Vasendenfos 68.
Vasends-Saeter 84.
VasfJBeren 60.
Vashoved 252.
Vaslefos 93.
Vass-Sseter 25.
Vassbotten 293.
Vasselhyttan 314.
Vassetelv 94.
Vastind 254.
Vatnevand 175.
Vatsaas 233.
Vatsvandene 165.
Vatsvendeggen 164. 165.
Vatsvendelv 165.
Vatsvendhvttan 165.
Vattenbvgden 242.
Vattholma 363.
Vattjom 373.
Vaxdal 79.
Vaxholm 352.
Vaderbar 282.
Vsefos 67.
Vsegen 235.
Vfeglid 25.
Vsekkei-0 13.
Viinge 369.
Vwrdalen 223.
Voerdalstfren 223.
Vaerholm 116.
Varing 296.
Viermofos 200.
Vser0 (Lofoden) 247.248.
Viisby 355.
Vase 312.
Vatversunda 307.
Vargarda 294.
Varvik 302.
Veblungsnses 199.

Vedevag 314.
Vednisfjeld 95.
Vedum 294.
Vedvik 168.
Vefsenfjord 235.
Vefungen, Lake 365.
Vegea 289.
Vegeholm 289.
VehuskjEerringen 36.
Veinge 289.
Veirhalden 175.
Veirhorn 188.
Veisten 121.
Veitestrandsskard 104.
Veitestrandsvand 103.
Velfjord 234.
Vendel 363.
Vendelso Fjord 288.
Venern, Lake 293. 281.
Venersborg 293. 280.
Venge 199.
Vengedal 200.
Vengetinder 197. 198. 200.
Vennees 224.
Venneberga 305.
Venset 241.
Veobrae 131.
Veodal 131.
Veoknappen 131.
Veolisseter 131.
Ve0 198. 203.
Vermdo 352. 353.
Vermelen-Sjo 311.
Vermland 311. 364.
Verinlandsbro 364.
Vernamo 289.
Vesholdo 57.
Vesle-Aadal 140.
Veslefjeld 142.
Veslehorn 84.
Vessman, Lake 365.
Vestad 196.
Vestanfors 365.
Vestby 276.

Vestenfjeldske Norge 43.
Vesteraalen 244.
Vesteras 315.
Vesterplana 296.
Vesterqvarn 366.
Vestervik 309. 393.
Vestfjord 244.
Vestfjorddal 23.
Vestfossen 19.
Vestnses 189. 172. 196.
Vestra Ed 276.

— Husby 305.

— Viiggar 301.
Vestre, Gaard 188.
Vestre Slidre 94.
Vestvaagfl 248.
Vestvaer 247.
Veta-Aas 99.
Vetanaase 101.

INDEX.

431

Vetenakken 169.
Vetlebrte 114. 116.
Vetlefiord 115.
Vetlenibben 107.
Vetle Utladal 156. 157.
Vetlcvand 68.
Vetljuvbra; 147.
Vettern, Lake 299.
Vettersborg 302.
Vetti, Gaard 102.
Vettisfos 102. 154.
Vettisgalder 154.
Vettisgjel 102.
Vettismorkasseter 103.

154.
Veum 35. 41.
Vevang 173.
Vexio 390. 383.
Vexnesjti 370.
Via Saeter 165.
Viavand 164.
Vibesnaase 111.
Victoriahavn 250.
Vidda , the Hardanger

25.
Videdal 165.
Vie 224. 225.
Viefjeld 181.
Vierbotten 87.
Vigdal 105.
Vigdalssseter 105.
Vigdpla 107.
Vigholmen 237.
Vigland, Gaard 40.
Vigten 233.
Vik (Eidfjord) 59. 61.

— (Elg&fjord) 311.

— (Folsjtf) 21.

— (Gudbrandsdal) 123.

— (Hedemarken) 212.

— (Sognefjord) 116.

— (Stfvdefjord) 170.

— (Tyrifjord) 15.

— (Viksvand) 180.
Vikebugt 64.
Vikedal 50. 101.
Viken (Bardudal) 252.

— (Eikisdal) 204. 210.

— (Gbta Canal) 296. 303.

— (Merakerbane) 222.

— (Skorgedal) 189.
Viken i Valle 35. 41.
Vikersund 18.
Vikersvik 313.
Vikesaxlen 204.
Vikevik 52.
Vikmanshyttan 370.

Viko 84.
Viktfr 57.
Viksvand 115. 180.
Villand, Gaard 87.
Vilure 64.
Vimmerby 393.
Vinses 58.
Vindaashorn 164.
Vindalsbugd 32.
Vindaxlen 61.
Vindedal 101. 108.
Vindedalssseter 109.
Vindeelv 134.
Vindefjord 50.
Vindegg 27.
Vindhelle 97.
Vindksern 370.
Vindrekken 115.
Vingaker 297.
Vinger 275.
Vingersizr 275.
Vinje (Slyngsfjord) 188.
— (i Voss) 81.
Vinje-Elv 36.
Vinjefjord 173. 206. 244
Vinjevand 28.
Vinkefjord 244.
Vinstervande 136.
Vinstra 143. 209.
Vinstras Os 128.
Vintertun 53.
Viren 297.
Virijaur 243.
Virsbo 366.
Virsbosjo 366.
Visa 146. 145.
Visborg 381.
Visby 379.
Visdal 145. 157.
Visdalsssetre 146.
Visingsborg 300.
Visingso 300. 298.
Viskaa 288.
Viskafors 288.
Viskan 373.
Vislanda 383.
Visman, Lake 313.
Visnses 184. 190. 193.
Vistdal 203.
Vistnes 231.
Vittinge 369.
Vivelstad 235.
Voie i Muland 34.
Void 197.
Voldbo 134.
Volden 130. 94. 171.
Voldenfjord 170. 171.

Voldfjeld 240.
Vollsjo 396.
Vombsjo 396.
Vomtind 250.
Vora 183.
Vormelid 161. 103.
Vormen 118. 211. 275.
Vortenzr 256.
Vorvik 48.
Voss 79.
Vosseelv 79. 80.
Vosseskavl 60.
Vossest0le 58.
Vossestrands-Elv 81.
Vossevangen 79.
Voxli 29.
Voxlivand 29.
Voxna 370.
Voxtorp 391.
Vtfringsfos 61. 24. 62.
Vraadal 34.
Vraavand 34. 35.
Vrangelsborg 385.
Vrena 354.
Vretakloster 304.
Vreten 295.
Vretstorp 297.
Vuludalselv 163.
Vuluvand 163.
Vuolla-Njunnes 271.
Vuorie-Tjok 271.
Vuorjem 270.

Wein 279.

Ylgelidsseter 26.
Ymesfjeld 147. 158.
Yngen, Lake 313.
Yri, Gaards 193.
Yrinibben 193.
Yrkefjord 50.
Ystad 395.
Ysttinder 189.
Ytre Bakken 109.

Dalen 179. 187.

Eide 190.

— Kroken 101.

— Samlen 54. 57.
Vigten 233.

Ytteran 371.
Ytterdalssfetre 158. 149.
Ytterfl 223.
Ytter-Selo 351.
Yxlandvand 179.

Zarijokjavre 271.
Zaurisstue 271.

Leipsic: Printed by Breitkopf ife Hartel.

Geogrscph. Anstalt -ion

Wagner * Debes, Leipzig.

apili.'IIT. ■■■■■'-- ■■-■■ ■'- ■- ■■■ ■«■■■-.■■ - tilllHIIIIIBIv. ■■:■;::■ ■:■■::■ ■■■■'T; ;:;,- ■!■■.- -,.:

-?£

Sketch

Norwegian and Swedish

Grammar,

with

Vocabulary and List of Phrases.

Contents,

I. The Language of Norway.
II. The Language of Sweden.

III. Vocabulary.

IV. Short and Useful Phrases.

ill- ■ . i ! 1 1 . i . . . : ! 1 1 . . - .iiii.- uiiiiminiuiiil iiihiiiimiiiiiii n I iiiiinmiiu u i mumnm

This cover may be detached from the rest of the book
by severing the yellow thread which will be found between
pp. 24, 25.

■1

I. Language of Norway.

The Gothic tribes of Aryan or Indo-European origin who set-
tled in Scandinavia, probably about the beginning of the Christian
era, if not earlier, appear all to have spoken a common language
called the Norrcena Mai, afterwards known as the Donska Tunga,
the history of which is not distinctly traceable farther back than
the 9th or 10th century. That language, now known as Icelandic,
or the Old Northern Tongue, and called by the Norwegians 'Old
Norsk', was carried to Iceland by the Norwegians who settled there
in the 9th century, and it has there been preserved in its original
purity and vigour down to the present day, while on the mainland
it gradually underwent modification and split into several distinct
dialects , of which modern Swedish and modern Danish are now
the most important. The history of the language of Norway be-
tween the colonisation of Iceland and" the incorporation of Norway
with the kingdom of Denmark towards the end of the 14th century
is involved in obscurity, but the dialects spoken in different parts
of the country probably continued closely akin to the primitive
Old Norsk. In Denmark the original Donska Tunga had meanwhfle
undergone considerable alteration , as is shown by the Skaanske
Lov and the Sjcelandske Lov, promulgated in 1162 and 1171 re-
spectively, the gutturals and other consonants having been some-
what modified and softened, and the inflections simplified. From
the year 1387 , when Queen Margaret, the 'Northern Semiramis',
was crowned queen of Norway , dates the introduction of the
Danish language into the sister country. Between that date and
the year 1814 when Norway was severed from Denmark and united
with Sweden, the Norwegians had enjoyed a considerable degree
of political independence, but their ancient language was gradu-
ally superseded by that Of the dominant race , which was used by
the government officials and adopted by the upper classes gener-
ally, although a number of dialects descended from the Old Norsk
speech continued to be spoken in the remoter districts , chiefly by
the uneducated classes. At the present day therefore the language
of the country is Danish, although the natives prefer to call it
Norsk, but it is pronounced with greater vigour and distinctness
than by the Danes themselves , and it is enriched with a con-
siderable number of words derived from the old provincial dialects
which greatly enhance its interest. Like other languages of the
Teutonic stock , Danish has admitted many Romanic and other
foreign words to the rights of citizenship , such as genere sig (se
gener), Kandidat (candidat), Kontor (comptoir), Kritik (critique),
Kvarter (quartier), Prcest (presbyter); but some of these have

2 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.

been introduced more from fashion than necessity, and words of
purely native growth are to be found in every branch of art and
science. The following lines by Norwegian poets may be quoted
here as a specimen of the modern language common to Norway
and Denmark : —

'Min norske Vinter er saa vakker: Ja! herligt er mit Ftfdeland,

De hvide snebedaekte Bakker Den gamle klippefaste Norge

Og gr/anne Gran med pudret Haar Med Sommerdal og Vinterborge,

Og trofast Is paa dybe Vande Der evig trodser Tidens Tand.

Og Engledragt paa n#gne Strande Om Kloden rokkes end, det8 Fjelde

Jeg bytter neppe mod en Vaar1. Skal Stormen dog ej kunne feelde'.
/. N. Brun. S. 0. Wolff.

Literal translation:
Literal translation : Yes ! glorious is my native land,

My Norwegian winter is so beauti- the ancient cliff-bound Norway, with

ful ; the white, snow-clad hills, and summer valley and winter fastness,

green pines with powdered hair, and which ever defies the tooth of time,

stedfast ice on deep lakes, and angel- Even if the globe be shaken, the storm

garb on barren shores, I would hardly shall be unable to overthrow its

exchange for spring. mountains.

A knowledge of the language of the country will conduce ma-
terially to the traveller's comfort and enjoyment. English is spoken
at the principal resorts of travellers and by the captains of most of
the steamboats, but on the less frequented routes and particularly
at the small country- stations the native tongue alone is understood.
The traveller should therefore endeavour to learn some of the most
useful and everyday phrases which he is likely to require on his
journey. Those who are already acquainted with German or Dutch
will find the language exceedingly easy and interesting , as the
great majority of the words of which each of these languages con-
sists are derived from the same Gothic stock as Danish. A still
higher vantage-ground is possessed by those who have studied Ice-
landic, or even the kindred Anglo-Saxon, the former being the
direct ancestor of the language of Norway. Those , on the other
hand, who are tolerably proficient in Swedish, will understand and
be understood with little difficulty in Norway , though much less
readily in Denmark. Conversely , the traveller who has learned
Danish with the Norwegian accent will generally find it intelligible
to Swedes , and will himself understand Swedish fairly well ; but
Danish acquired in Denmark will be found very unsatisfactory in
Norway and still more so in Sweden.

The traveller who takes an interest in the language , which
throws light on many English words , and particularly on English
and Scotch provincialisms, should be provided both with an Eng-
lish-Danish (Bosing's, 3rd edit. ; Copenhagen, 1869) and Danish-
English dictionary [Ferrall tyRepps, 3rd edit. ; Copenhagen, 1867),
and with Ivar Aasen's copious and instructive 'Norsk Ordbog' (2nd
edit., Christiania, 1873). Rask's Grammar , Fr'adersdorffs Practi-
cal Introduction, and Bojesen's Guide are also recommended to the
notice of students of Danish. For the use of ordinary travellers,

I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. 6

however, the following outline of the grammar and the vocabularies,
though necessarily brief and imperfect, will probably suffice.

Pronunciation. The Consonants and their pronunciation are
nearly all the same as in English ; hut f at the end of a word is
pronounced like v ; g before e and i and at the end of a syllable is
often pronounced like y; j is pronounced like the English y; k be-
fore e, i, j, y, a, and 0 is (in Norway) pronounced like the Eng-
lish t followed by the consonant y, or nearly like the English ch;
sk before the same vowels is pronounced like the English sh;
while c (like s before e, i, y, ce, and 0, and like k before a, 0, u,
and aa), q, x, and s are used in words of foreign origin only. The
chief irregularities are that d at the end or in the middle of a
syllable is generally mute, as Fladbred (pron. Flabra), sidst (pron.
sist), hende (pron. henne) ; g at the end of a syllable is often in-
audible , as deilig (pron. deili), farlig (pron. farli), while eg is
softened to ei, as jeg (pron. jei), egen (pron. eien), and, in con-
versation, mig, dig, sig are corrupted to mei, dei, sei ; s after r is
pronounced almost like sh; lastly, in det, the t is usually mute,
and de is pronounced di (dee).

The Vowels a, e, and i are pronounced (as in French and Ger-
man) ah, eh, ee; 0 is sometimes pronounced 00 (as in boot), some-
times 0 (as in hole), and when short it is like the short English 0
(in hot), but less open ; in ai , ei , oi , each letter is pronounced
distinctly ; w, when long, is somewhat like the u in lute, with an
approach to the French u, and when short it resembles the French
eu or the English i in bird ; y , when long, is like the French u,
and when short it is indistinguishable from the short 0. The
sound of aa is that of the long English 0 ; ce is like e, but more
open (as in where); 0 , sometimes written 6 when the sound is
more open, has the sound of the German 6 or the French eu. These
two last letters are placed at the end of the alphabet, a peculiarity
which consulters of a Danish dictionary must bear in mind. —
Those who have studied French or German will have no difficulty
with the y and the 0, but it is not so easy to catch the precise
sound of the w, and it requires some practice to distinguish be-
tween words in which 0 is pronounced 00 and those in which it
pronounced as in English.

Genders. There are two genders, the common (including mas-
culine and feminine) and the neuter.

Articles. The Indefinite is en (c.) or et (n.), as en Mand (a
man), en Kvinde (a woman), et Bam (a child).

The Definite is den (c), det (n.), de (pi.), which forms are
used almost exclusively when an adjective intervenes between the
article and the substantive, as den gode Mand (the good man), det
unge Barn (the young child), de gamle Konger (the old kings).
When immediately connected with its substantive , the definite
article is -en or -n, -et or -t, and -ne or -me, added as an affix to

4 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.

the substantive, as Manden (the man), Barnet (the child), Kongerne
(the kings), Oaardene (the farm-houses).

Substantives. All substantives are spelled with an initial capi-
tal. The genitive, both singular and plural, usually ends in 8, as
Kongens Mildhed (the king's clemency), Mandenes Heste (the men's
horses). All nouns ending in e form their plural by adding r, as
Konge, -r, Kvinde, -r ; others add er, as Blomst, -er; others e, as
Hest, -e ; and many neuter nouns remain unchanged in the plural,
as Sprog (language), Hus (house). Lastly, a number of substan-
tives modify their radical vowel in the plural , as Haand (hand),
Hcender, Fod (pron. oo ; foot), Fodder, Bog (pron. o ; book), Beger,
Barn (child), Bern. In many cases the consonant is doubled in
order to preserve the short sound of the vowel , as Hat (hat), -te,
Ven (friend), -ner, (?«t(Norw., boy), -ter.

Adjectives. Those derived from proper names are not spelled
with initial capitals (as norsk, Norwegian ; engelsk, English). When
preceded by the indefinite article, the adjective remains unchanged
in the common gender , but t is added to it in the neuter, as en
god Hest, et stort (large) Hus ; if, however, the adjective terminates
in e, o, u, or y, it remains unchanged in both genders, as en title
Hest, et title Barn , en sky (shy) Hest, et bly (shy) Barn ; but ny
(new) has the neuter nyt. When preceded by the definite article,
and in the plural whether with or without article, adjectives have
an e added, unless they terminate in e, o, u or y ; as den gode Hest,
det store Hus , de smukke smaa Bern (the pretty little children),
vakre (contracted from vakker -e) Fjorde (beautiful bays). When
standing alone after the substantive as a predicate the adjective
usually agrees with the substantive in gender and number, as
Huset er (is) stort, Hestene er store.

The Comparative and Superlative are formed by adding re
or ere and rt or est to the positive ; as glad (glad), gladere, gladest ;
rig (rich), rigere , rigest ; but in some cases they are formed by
prefixing mer and mest to the positive , as elsket (beloved), mer
elsket, mest elsket. The radical vowel is sometimes modified ; as
stor, sterre, sterst; faa (few), fame, farrest. Several adjectives
are irregularly compared: god, bedre, bedst ; ond (bad), varre,
vcBrst ; gammel (old), aldre, aldst; title (small), mindre, mindst;
megen, meget (much), mer, mest; mange (many), flere, fleste.

Numerals. The Cardinal Numbers are : en or een (n. et), to,
tre, fire, fern, sex, syv, otte, ni, ti, elleve, tolv, tretten, fjorten,
femten, sexten, sytten, atten, nitten, tyve (twenty) ; en og tyve, to
og tyve , etc. ; treti (tredive) ; flrti (fyrretyve), femti (or halvlresind-
styve, i. e. 'halfway between twice and three times twenty', or
'thrice twenty all but a half of twenty' ; the word used in Den-
mark, and often contracted to halvtres'), sexti (tresindstyve, or tres)
sytti (halvfjersindstyve, or halvfjers), otti (firsindstyve, or firs), nitti
(halvfemsindstyve, or halvfems), hundrede, tusinde.

I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. 0

Ordinal Numbers. Den, det, de ferste, anden (pi. andre),
tredie, fjerde, femte, sjette, syvende, ottende, niende, tiende, ellevte,
tolvte, etc. ; tyvende , trediende , firtiende , femtiende (or halvfre-
sindstyvende), etc. ; hundrede and tusinde undergo no alteration.

Fractions. En halv (y2, adj. ; the subst. is en Halvdet) ; hilv-
andera(lV2i 'another all but half); halvtredie (2^2, 'a third all
but half), or to og en halv ; halvfjerde , or tre og en halv ; en Tre-
diedel (}/$) ; en Fjerdedel [}/i, or en Fjerding, en Kvart, or et Kvar-
ter) ; en Femtedel ; and so on, del (part) being added to the ordinals.

Pronouns. Personal. Nom. sing, jeg (I) , du(thou), han (he),
hun (she), den or det (it); pi. vi, I, de. Ace. sing, mig, dig, ham,
or sig, hende or sig, den or det; pi. os, eder, dem or sig. Gen. sing.
hans, hendes, dens or dets; pi. deres (their).

Sig is always reflexive, referring to the nominative or subject
(himself, herself, itself, themselves). Members of the same family
and intimate friends address each other as Du , pi. /, but in or-
dinary society De (literally 'they'), -with the verb in the singular,
is always used. In this sense the accusative of De is Dem, never
sig ; as De hat skadet Dem (you have hurt yourself).

Possessive. Min (my), mit, pi. mine; din (thy), dit, pi. dine ;
sin (his, her, or its), sit, pi. sine ; vor (our), vort, pi. vore ; jer
(your), jert, pi. jere (colloquial); deres (their); Deres (your, in the
polite form of address).

Demonstrative. Den, det (this), pi. de; denne, dette (that),
pi. disse; hin or hiin, hint (that), pi. hine; samme (same), selv
(self), and begge (both) are indeclinable ; saadan, saadant (such a
one), pi. saadane.

Relatives. Som (who, whom, which, nom. and ace.) and der
(who, which, nom. only) are indeclinable ; hvilken, hvilke, hvilket
(who, whom, which, nom. or ace), pi. hvilke; hvis (whose, of
which, sing, or pi.) ; hvad (what), indeclinable.

Interrogatives. Hvo or hvem (who, whom), indeclinable;
hvilken, hvilket, pi. hvilke (which, nom. or ace.) ; hvad (what).

Indefinite. Man (one, they, nom. only) ; en or et (one) ; nogen
(some, somebody, someone), noget (some, something), pi. nogle;
ingen (no , nobody, none), intet (no, nothing , none), no plural ;
anden, andet (other), pi. andre ; liver, hvert, enhver, enhvert (each,
every ; each one, every one) ; al, alt (all), pi. alle ; det, der (it,
with impers. verbs), as det regnes (it rains), der siges (it is said),
der skrives (it is written).

Verbs. Auxiliary. At have (to have); pres. indie, har, pi.
have; imperf. havde ; perf. har or have havt ; fut. vil or skall, pi.
ville or skulle, have; imperat. hav, pi. have; partic. havende, havt.

At vare (to be) ; pres. ind. er, pi. ere; imperf. var, pi. vare ;
peTf. har or have varet ; fut. vil or skall, ville or skulle, vare ; im-
perat. var, pi. varer.

6 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.

At skulle (to be about to, to be obliged); pres. shall, pi. skulle
imperf. skulde ; perf. har or have skullet.

At ville (to be about to, to be 'willing) ; pres. vil, pi. ville
imperf. vilde; perf. har or have villet.

At kunne (to be able) ; pres. kan, pi. kunne ; imperf. kunde
perf. har or have kunnet ; fut. vil or skall, ville or skulle, kunne.

At maatte (to be obliged) ; pres. maa (must) ; imperf. maatte
perf. har or have maattet.

At turde (to be allowed, to dare); pres. ter (may, dare); im-
perf. turde (might, dared).

At burde (to be bound, to be under an obligation) ; pres. her
(ought, etc.) ; imperf. burde (ought etc.).

The verb faae (to get), with the perfect participle, expresses
futurity, as naar jeg faaer skrevet (when I shall have written).

The verb blive (to become) is sometimes used to form the
passive voice, as han bliver, blev skadet (he is, was hurt).

Conjugations. The conjugations are either weak or strong,
regular or irregular, and under each of these heads there are sev-
eral subdivisions. The first and second of the three following
verbs are weak (i. e. with the imperf. formed by the addition of
ede or te, and the partic. by the addition of et , or t to the root),
and the third and fourth are strong (£. e. where the imperf. takes
no affix whether modifying the radical vowel or not).

Elske (lore); pres. elsker, elske ; imperf. elskede ; perf. har or
have elsket ; partic. elsket, pi. (when used as adj.) elskede.

Tale (speak); pres. taler, tale; imperf. talte; perf. har or have
tall ; partic. talt, pi. talte.

Komme (come); pres. kommer, komme; imperf. kom; perf.
er kommen, neut. kommet, pi. ere komne.

Stjale (steal); pres. stjaler, stjale; imperf. stjal; perf. har or
have stjaalet; partic. used as adj. stjaalen, stjaalet, stjaalne.

The imperfect participle is formed by adding nde to the infini-
tive (as elksende, kommende~). The imperative singular is the root
(as tal, stjat), to which er is added in the plural (as elsker, kommer).

Elskes (beloved); pres. elskes, or bliver elsket, blive elskede ;
imperf. elskedes or blev elsket, blev elskede.

Tales (be spoken), pres. tales, or bliver talt, blioe talte; im-
perf. taltes, or blev talt, blev talte.

The following List of Verbs in frequent use includes a number
of weak and strong, regular and irregular. The infinitive, imper-
fect, and participle of each are given. When the participle ends
in -t, the usual auxiliary is have, when it ends in -n , -ne, the
auxiliary is vare.

Accompany, ledsage, ledsagede, ledsaget. Alight, stige ned (steg,
steg-en, -et, -ne) ; stige ud. Arrive, ankomme, ankom, ankom-men
-met, -ne. Ascend, mount, stige, steg, steg-en, -et, -ne. Ask,
sperge, spurgte, spurgt. Awake (trans.), vakke, vakte, vakt.

I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY. '

Become, blive, blev, blev-en, -et, -ne. Beg, bede, bad, bedi, -e.

Believe, troe, troede, troet. Bind, binde, bandt, bundet, bund-en,

-et, -ne. Blow, blase, Haste, blast. Boil, koge, kogte, kogt. Break,

brakke, brak, brakket, bruk-ken, -feet, -ne; slage itu (slog, slaget,

slag-en, -et, -ne). Bring, bringe, bragte, bragt. Buy, kepe, kepte, kept.

Call, shout, raabe, raabte, raabt, -e; see also 'name'. Carry,

bare, bar, baaret, baar-en, -et, -ne. Change, skifte, skiftede, skiftet ;

bytte, byttede, byttet ; change (money) vexle, vexlede, vexlet. Come,

komme, kom, kom-men, -met, -ne. Count, talle, talte, talt. Cost,

koste, kostete, kostet. Cut, skjare, skar, skaaret, skaar-en, -et, -ne.

Demand, ask (a price, etc.), forlange, forlangte, forlangt, -e.

Depart, see 'start'. Descend, stige ned (steg, stegen). Dismount,

stlgeaf, stige ned. Do, gjere; pres. gjer, gjere; gjorde, gjort.

Drink, drikke, drak, drukket, druk-ken, -ket, -ne. Drive (a carriage),

kjere, kjerte, kjert, -e. Dry, terre, terrede, terret.

Eat, spise, spiste, spist, -e, or ade, aad, adt, -e.

Fear, frygte, frygtede, frygtet. Find, finde, fand, fundet, fund-en,

-et, -ne. Fish, fiske, fiskede, fisk-et, -ede. Follow, felge, fulgte,

fulgt, -e. Forget, glemme, glemte, glemt, -e. Freeze, fryse, fres,

fruss-en, -et, -ne.

Get, faa, fik, faaet; get down, stige ned (steg, steg-en, -et, -ne);
get in, stige ind; get up, stige op; get on, komme frem (kom, kom-
men). Give, give, gav, givet, giv-en, -et, -ne. Go, gaa, gik, gaaet.
Help, hjalpe, hjalp, hjulpet, hjulp-en, -et, -ne. Hire, hyre,
hyrede, hyret; leie, leiede, leiet. Hold, holde,holdt,holdt, -e. Hope,
haabe, haabede, haabet.

Jump, springe, sprang, sprunget, sprung-en, -et, -ne.
Keep, beholde, beholdt, beholdt. Knock, banke, bankede, banket.
Know (a fact), fide; pres. ved, vide; vidste, vidst ; (a person, a
place, etc.) kjende, kjente, kjent.

Lay, put, lagge, lagte, lagt, lagd, -e ; lay hold, tage fat paa
(see 'take'). Learn, lare,larte,lart. Leave, forladc ; leave behind,
efterlade; see 'let'. Let, lade, lod, ladet, ladt, -e ; let go , let fall,
slippe, slap, sluppet, slup-pen, -pet, -ne. Lie, ligge, lag, ligget.
Light, kindle, tande, tandte, tandt, -e. Like, synes (om), syntes ;
or like (Norw.), likte, likt. Lose, tabe, tabte, tabt, -e.

Make, see 'do'. Mend, istandsatte (sat, sat); reparere, re-
parerede, repareret ; udbedre, udbedrede, udbedret. Mistake, make
a mistake, tage feil (tog, taget). Mount, stige, steg, stegen; (on
horseback) sidde op (sad, siddet).

Name, call, kalde, kaldte, kaldt, -e. Named or called (to be),
hedde, hed, hedt, -e.

Open, aabne, aabnete, aabnet, -e. Order, bestille, bestillede,

bestillet.

Pay, betale, betalte, betalt, -e. Pronounce, udtale, udtalte, ud-
talt, -el Put, satte, sat, sat, -te; see also 'lay'; put to (horses),
spande, spandte, spandt.

8 I. LANGUAGE OF NORWAY.

Rain, regne, regnete, regnet. Read, latse, laste, last. Reckon,
regne, regnede, regnet. Require, believe, behevde, behevt, -e. Rest,
hvile, hvilede, hvilt. Return (intr.), komme or gaa tilbaye. Ride,
ride, red, redet, red-en, -et, -ne. Roast, stege, stegte, stegt. Row,
roe, roede, roet. Run, lebe, leb, lebt.

Say, sige, sagte, sagt, -e. See, see, saa, seet, -e. Seek, sege,
segte, segt. Sell, sedge, solgte, solgt. Send, sende, sendete, sendet, -e.
Set, see 'put'. Shoot, skyde, skjed, skudt, -e. Shut, lukke, luk-
kede, lukk-et, -ede. Sit, sidde, sad, siddet. Sleep, sove, sov, sovet.
Smoke (intrans.), ryge, reg , reget ; (trans.) rege, regte, regt.
Snow, sne, snete, snet. Speak, tale, talte, talt, -e. Stand, staae,
stod, staaet. Start, afgaa, afgik, afgaaet ; or gaa bort, gaa afsted.
Stop (trans, or intrans.), standee, standsede, stands-et, -ede.

Take, tage, tog, toge, taget, tag-en, -et, -ne ; take care of, serge,
sergede, sergt (for). Think, tmnke, trnnkte, tankt. Travel, reise,
reiste, reist. Try, forsege, forsegede, forsegt.

Understand, forstaae, forstod, forstaa-et, -ede. Use, bruge,
brugede, brugt. — Wait, vente, ventete, ventet. Wash, vadske,
vadskede, vadsk-et, -ede. Wish, enske, enskede, ensk-et, -ede.
Write, skrive, skrev, skrevet, skrev-en, et, -ne.

Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverbs ;
as god (good), godt (well); Zanpsom (slow), langsomt (slowly) ; and
such adverbs take the same comparative and superlative as the ad-
jectives. Godt or vel has bedre, bedst ; ilde (ill), like ond or daar-
lig, has vctrre, vcerst; gjerne (willingly), hellere (rather), heist
(most willingly, rather, especially).

The following are in very frequent use : —

Place. About, omtrent ; above, ovenpaa ; after, efter ; around,
omkring ; at home, hjemme (indicating rest, like several other ad-
verbs ending in e , while without the e they indicate motion) ;
away, bort, borte ; back, tilbage; below, nedenunder ; down, ried,
nede ; everywhere, overall ; far, langt ; far from here, far distant,
langtherfra; here, her; home, hjem ; in, ind, inde ,• near, ncer ;
nowhere, ingensteds ; out, ud, ude ; past, forbi ; there, der ; thither,
did; up, op, oppe ; where, hror ; within, inde.

Time. About, omtrent ; afterwards, siden efter ; again, atter,
igjen ; always, alt id ; already, allerede ; before, fer ; early, tidligt ;
immediately, strax ; last year, ifjor ; late, sent ; long, lange ; near-
ly, nasten ; never, aldrig ; now, nu ; often, ofte, tidt ; once, engang;
seldom, sjalden ; sometimes, undertiden ; soon, snart ; still, endnu ;
the day after to-morrow, iovermorgen ; the day before yesterday,
iforgaars ; then, da, paa, den Tid ; this evening, iaften; this
morning, imorges ; to-day, idag ; to-morrow, imorgen; twice, to
Gange ; when (interrogative), naar, hvad Tid ; yesterday, igaar.

Manner, Degree, etc. A little, noget ; also, ogsaa; also not
heller, ikke ; altogether, i Alt, i det liele tagit, altsammen ; broken

II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. »

(in two), itu; downhill, nedad (Bakken) ; how, hvorledes ; little,
lidt; much, meget ; no, nej ; not, ikke; not at all, slet ikke ; of
course, naturligvis ; only, kun ; particularly, iscer ; partly, dels ;
perhaps, kanske, maaske ; possibly, muligvls ; probably, rimeligvis ;
quickly, hurtigt (fort) ; so, thus, saaledes ; softly (gently, slowly),
sagte; straight on, Ugefrem; together, tilsammen; too (much, etc.),
for (meget, etc.); uphill, opad (Bakken) ; very, meget ; why, hvor-
for ; yes, ja, jo (the latter being used in answer to a question in
the negative or expressing doubt).

Prepositions. Among the most frequent are : —

About, om ; above, over ; after, efter ; among, blandt ; at, i,
paa, ved; at (of time), om; behind, bag; between, mellem; by,
at the house of, hos ; by, near, ved ; by, past, forbi ; during, om,
under; for, in front of , for; from, fra; in, i; instead of, istedenfor;
near, ncer, ved; of, from, af; on, paa; opposite, ligeoverfor; over,
upwards of, over ; past, forbi ; round, rundt om ; since, siden :
through, gjennem; till, indtil (not till, ikke fer) ; to, til; towards,
mod; under, under; upon, paa; with, med.

Conjunctions. The most important are : —

After, efterat ; although, skjendt; and, og ; as, da; as — as,
saa — som; because, fordi; before, fer ; but, men; either — or,
enten — eller; for, thi; if, om, dersom, hvis ; in order that, for at ;
or, eller; since (causal), fordi, efterdi, (of time) siden; so, saa;
than, end; that, at; till, until, indtil; when (with past tense) da,
(with present or future) near ; where, hvor; while, medens.

Interjections. Ah, alas, ak ; indeed, ih, jasaa, virkelig ; not
at all, far from it, don't mention it, langt ifra, ingen Aarsag ; of
course, certainly, kors, bevars ; pardon, om Forladelse ; please,
var saa good, voir saa artig ; thanks, Tak (many, manye) ; true, det
er sandt ; what a pity, det er Synd !

II. Language of Sweden.

The remarks already made on the origin of the Danish language
and on the peculiarities of its pronunciation apply almost equally
to the Swedish language. The latter, however, is derived much
more purely and directly from the original Gothic tongue, and is
therefore much more interesting to philologists.

Articles. The Indefinite Article is (m. and f.) en, (n.) ett ;
as en karl, a man ; ett barn, a child.

The Definite Article is (m. or f.) en (or n after a vowel),
and (n.) et or ett , affixed to the substantive ; as konungen, the
king ; flickan, the girl. Preceding an adjective, the definite article
is (m. or f.) den, (n.) det, (pi.) de ; but the substantive which fol-
lows still retains its affix ; as den gode konungen, det lilla barnet
(the little child), de skbna flickoma (the pretty girls).

Substantives. The genitive, both singular and plural, usually

10 II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.

ends iii a ; as bamets moder, konungens godhed, prestemas bockar
(the priests' books).

The plural is formed by adding or, ar, er, or n ; but it is some-
times the same as the singular, especially in the case of neuter
substantives ; as krona, kronor ; gosse (boy), gossar ; lind (lime-
tree), lindar ; prest, prester ; kna (knee), knan ; hus (house), pi.
hus. Among the irregular plurals the commonest are man, man ;
bga (eye), bgon ; bra (car), bron ; boh (book), bockar ; fot (foot),
f 'otter ; nat (night), natter; gas (goose), gass.

Adjectives. After the indefinite article the adjective under-
goes no change, except in the neuter gender, in which case t is
added; as en ung man, en skbn flicka, ett artigt barn (a good
child). The neuter of liten (little) is litet, of mi/cfeen(much)mj/cfce(.

After the definite article the adjective takes the affix e or a in
the masculine, and a in the feminine or neuter; as dengodeman-
nen, den skona flicka, det artiga barnet. When following the de-
finite article liten becomes lilla (pi. sma). For all genders the
plural is de goda, de skona, de artiga, de sma.

The Comparative and Superlative are formed by adding are
and ast to the positive ; as rolig (quiet), roligare, roligast ; ringa
(small, insignificant), ringare, ringast. Irregular are : god (good).
battre, bast ; dalig (bad), samre, samst, or varre, varst ; lag (low),
lagre, lagst ; long (long), langre, langst ; liten (small), mindre,
minst; sma, (small, pi.), smarre ; fa (few), farre ; mycken (much),
mer, mest ; manga (many), flere, de fleste ; stor (large), storre,
storst ; gammal (old), aldre, alst ; ung (young), yngre, yngst ; tung
(heavy), tyngre, tyngst.

Numerals. The Cardinal Numbers are : en or ett, tva, tre,
fyra, fern, sex, sju, atta, nio, tio, elfva, tolf, tretton, fjorton, fem-
ton, sexton, sjutton, aderton, nitton, tjugu (20) ; tjugu en, etc. ;
tretti, fyratio fpron. fbrti), femtio, sextio, sjuttio, attatio (attio),
nittio, hundra, tusen, en million.

The Ordinal Numbers are : den fbrste, den, det fbrsta ; den
andre, den, det andra (en annan, ett annat) ; tredje, fjerde, femte,
sjette, sjunde, attonde, nionde, tionde, elfte, tolfte, trettonde, fjort-
onde etc. ; tjugonde (20th), tjugu fbrste etc. ; trettionde, fyrtionde
etc. ; hundrade, tusende.

Fractions. En half (ifa, adj. ; the subst. is en. halft), half-
annan (l1/^); en tredjedel (l/srd), en fjerdedel C/4 th), etc.

Pronouns. Personal. Nom. sing, jag (I), du (thou), han (he),
hon (she), det (it) ; nom. pi. vi, i, de. Ace. sing, mig, dig, honom,
henne, det; ace. pi. oss, eder, dem. Gen. sing, hans, hennes, dets ;
gen. pi. deras (their). Refl. ace. sig (himself, herself, itself, them-
selves). Hvarandra (one another).

Du is used in addressing near relatives and intimate friends.
Ni , corresponding with the Danish De (you), with the plural
number, i s used in addressing strangers ; but it is more polite to

II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 11

use the awkward periphrasis herrn er, har, etc., frun er, frbken er,
or better still the person's title, if known , as vill hen bfversten
vara sa god (will the colonel be so kind)?

Mig, dig, sig are pronounced mei, dei, sei (almost like the
French pays). De is often pronounced dee, and det day.

Possessive. Min (my), mitt, pi. mina ; din (thy), ditt, pi. dina ;
ham (his), hennes (her), dets (its) ; sin (his, her, its, their ; refl.
only), sitt, sina ; var (our), vart, vara ; eder (your), edert, edra (er,
ert, era).

Demonstrative. Denne, denna (this), detta, pi. desse, dessa ;
den, det her (this here), pi. de her; den, det der (that there), pi.
de der ; den, det, de samme (the same).

Relative. Som (who, whom, which), nom. and ace. only;
hvilken, hvilket (who, whom, which), pi. hvilka; hvad (what).

Interrogative. Hvem (who), hvems (whose), hvad (what),
hv ilk-en, -el, -a (which).

Indefinite. Man (one), sjelf (self) , nagon (some, somebody),
nagot (some, something), nagra (pi., some); ingen (no, nobody),
inlet (no, nothing), inga (pi., no); mangen (many a one), manga
(many) ; all, allt (all) ; hvar, hvart (each, every), hvar och (pron.
ok) en (one and all); hel, hell (whole), hele (pi., whole).

Verbs. Auxiliary. Att hafva (to have). Pres. indie, jag, du,
han, hon, det, Ni har ; vi ha (or havfa~) ; i han (hafven), de ha
(hafva). Imperf. jag, etc., hade; vi hade; i haden ; de hade. Fut.
jag, etc., skall hafva; i skolen hafva; de skola hafva. Condit. jag,
"tc, skulle hafva ; vi skulle hafva ; i skullen hafva ; de skulle hafva,
Imper. haf (ha), pi. hafven. Partic. hafvande, haft.

Att vara (to be). Pres. indie, jag, etc., fir; vi aro, i iiren, de
tiro. Imperf. jag, etc., var; vivoro, ivoren, de voro. Perf. jag,
etc., har varit. Imperf. jag hade varit. Fut. jag skall vara. Cond.
jag skulle vara. Imper. var, varen. Partic. varande, varit.

Att skola (to be obliged, to be about to); pres. skall, skola;
imperf. skulle; partic. skolande, skullet.

Att vilja (to be willing, to be about to); pres. vill, vilja; im-
perf. ville; partic. viljande, velat.

Att kunna (to be able) ; pres. kann, pi. kunna ; imperf. kunde ;
partic. kunnat.

Att ma, (to be obliged) ; pres. ma. ; imperf. maste.

Att tora (may, to be allowed) ; pres. tor ; imperf. torde.

Att bora (to be bound , obliged) ; pres. 66V (ought) ; imperf.
horde (ought).

The Conjugations are either weak or strong, regular or irre-
gular. The following three verbs are weak and regular :

Infinitive. Att alska (to love), boje (bend), bo (live).

Pres. indie. Jag, du, han alskar, bojer, bor ; vi, de alska, bdja,
bo; i alsken, bojen, bon.

Imperf. Jag, du, han, vi, de alskade, bojde, bodde ; i dlskaden,

12 II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.

bbjden, bodden. Perf. Jag har alskat, bojt, bott. Fut. Jag shall
alska, bbje, bo. Imper. Alska, bbj, bo; dlsken, bbjen, bon. Partic.
Alskande, bbjende, boende ; alskat, bojt, bott.

Most of the Swedish verbs are conjugated like alska. Those
whose roots end in k, p, s, or t form the imperfect by adding te,
and the participle by adding t ; as hope, kopte, kopt.

The passive is formed by adding s : jag alskas (I am loved),
dlskades (was loved), har alskats (have been loved), alskandes
(being loved). The passive may also be formed with the auxiliary
blifva (to be, become) : jag blir dlskad (I am loved), blef alskad
(was loved).

The following List of Verbs in frequent use includes a num-
ber of regular, strong, and irregular verbs. The present indicative,
which is generally formed from the infinitive by adding r, the
imperfect, the perfect participle used with hafva, and the perfect
participle used with vara are given in each case. When the parti-
ciple ends in n, the neuter usually changes the n to t, and the
plural ends in ne or na.

Arrive , ankommer , ankom (pi. ankommo~) , ankomm.it , an-
kommen; or intraffar, intraffade, intrdffat. Ascend, stiger (upp),
steg (stego), stegit, stegen. Ask, fragar, fragade , fragat. Awake
(trans.), vdckar, vdckade, vdckat.

Become, blir (vi blifva, inf. blifva), blef, blifvit, bleven. Beg,
ber (vi bedje or be, inf. bedja), bad (vi bado~), bedt, bedd. Bind,
binder, band (vi bundo), bundit, bunden. Blow, blaser, blaste,
blast. Boil, kokar , kokte, kokt. Break, brytar, brytade, brytat.
Bring, bringer, bragte, bragt (bringat). Buy, kopa, kopte, kopt.

Call, shout, ropa, ropte, ropt ; see also 'to name'. Carry, bar
(inf. bard), bar (buro), burit, buren. Change, bytar, bytade, bytat ;
change (money), vexlar, vexlade, vexlat ; change (alter), fbrdndrar,
fordndrade, fordndrat. Come, kommer, kom (kommo), kommit,
kommen. Count, taljar, tdljade, tdljt. Cost, kostar , kostade,
kostat. Cut, skdr (inf. skdra), skar (skuro), skurit, skuren.

Demand (ask a price etc.), fordrar, fordrade, fordrat. Depart,
afresar, afreste, afrest ; or gar bort, resar bort. Descend, stigerned
(see 'ascend'). Dismount, stiger ned, stiger af (hesten), sitter af
(see 'sit'). Do, gbr (inf. gbra), gjorde, gjordt, gjord. Drink,
dricker, drack (drucko), druckit, drucken. Drive (a carriage), korer,
kbrte, kort. Dry, torkar, torkade, torkat.

Eat, spiser, spiste, spist, or dter, at (ato), dtit, dten.

Fear, fruktar, fruktade, fruktat. Find, finner, fann, funnit,
funnen. Fish, fiskar, fiskte, flsket. Follow, foljer, foljte,foljt. Forget,
glommar, glbmte, glbmt. Freeze, fryser, frbs (frbso), frusit, frusen.

Get, far, fick (fingo), fatt ; get up, down, in, stiger upp, ned,
in ; get on, kommer from. Give, ger (gifver ; inf. ge, gifva), gaf
(gafvo), gifvit, gifven. Go, gar, gick (gingo), gatt, gangen.

Help, hjelper, halp (hulpo), hulpit, hulpen. Hire, hyrar, hyrade,

II. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN. 13

hyrat. Hold, holler, holl (hollo), hallit, hallen. Hope, hoppas (a
'deponent' verb, used in the passive form only), hoppades, hoppats.

Keep, behaller, behbll (behbllo), behallit, behallen. Knock (at a
door), klappar, klappade, klappat. Know (a fact), vet (inf. veto),
visste, vetat. Know (a person, a thing), kdnner, kannte, kannt.

Lay, put, lagger, lagde, lagt, lagd ; lay hold, of, tager fatt pa
(see 'take'). Learn, larar (mig), larte, lart, lard. Leave, lemnar,
lemnade, lemnat ; leave behind, lemna qvar. Let, later, lat (lato),
latit; let go (get rid of), slappar, slappade, slappat. Lie, liggar, lag
(lago), legat. Light, tandar, tandte, tandt. Like, tyckar (om),
tyckte, tyckt. Lose, fbrlorar, fbrlorade, fbrlorat.

Make, see 'do'. Mean, menar , mente , ment. Mend, satter i
stand (see 'set'), or reparerar, reparerade, reparerat. Mistake,
make a mistake, misstagar mig, see 'take'. Mount, stige, steg
(stego), stigit, steg en ; (on horseback) sitte upp, see 'sit'.

^Name, call, kallar , kallade, kallat; to be named (to signify),
heter, hette, hetat. — Open, oppnar , bppnade, bppnat. Order,
bestdllar, bestallte, bestallt.

Pay , betalar , betalade , betalat. Pronounce , uttalar , uttalade,
uttalat. Put, satter, satte, satt ,■ see also 'lay'; put to (horses),
spanna for, spannte, spannt.

Rain, (det) regnar, regnade, regnat. Read, laser, Icisteforlas,
no pi.), last, lasen. Reckon, raknar, rdknade , rdknat. Require,
behbfvar, behbfvade , behbfvat. Rest, hvilar , hvilade, hvilat. Re-
turn (intr.), vandar (om), vdndte, vandt ; or resar (reste, rest) til-
baka. Ride, rider, red (redo), ridit, riden. Roast, stekar, stekte,
stekt. Row, ror, rodde, rott. Run, lopar, lopp (lupo), lupit.

Say, sagar, sagte, sagt, sagd. See, ser , sag (sago), sett, sedd.
Seek, sbkar, sbkte, sbkt. Sell, saljar, sdljade, sdlgt. Send, sdndar,
sandte, sandt ; or skickar, skickte, skickt. Set, satter, satte, satt.
Shoot, skjutar, skjutade, skjutit. Shut, stangar, stangte, stangt.
Sit, sitter, satt (sutto), suttit (sutit). Sleep, sofver, sof (sofvo),
sofvit. Smoke (intr.) ryka , rbk, rukit; (trans.) rbka , rbkte, rbkt.
Snow, (det) snbr (inf. snod), snote, snot. Speak, talar, talte, talt.
Stand, star, stod, statt. Start, afgar, afgick (afgingo), afgatt, af-
gangen. Stop (intrans.), starstilla (see 'stand').

Take, tager (or tar), tog (togo), tagit , tagen ; take care of, ha.r
(hafva) omsorg om. Think, tankar, tdnkte, tankt. Travel, resar,
reste, rest. Try, forsoker, fbrsbkte, fbrsbkt.

Understand, fbrstar (like 'stand'). Use, brukar, brukte, brukt.

Wait, vantar, vantade, vcintat. Wash, tvattar, tviittade, tvdttat.
Wish, bnskar, bnskade, bnskat. Write, skrifver , skref (skrefvo),
skrifvit, skrifven.

Adverbs. The neuter forms of adjectives are used as adverbs ;
mannen iir arlig (the man is honest), mannen handlar arligt (the
man deals honestly). Such adverbs are compared like adjectives.
A few are compared irregularly. Oodt or veil (well) has battre,

14 IT. LANGUAGE OF SWEDEN.

bast ; daligt or ilia (ill), vilrre, varst or scimre, sdmst ; gerna or
garna (willingly), hallre (rather), halst (most willingly, especially).

Place. About, omkring ; above, ofvanpa; after, efter ; around,
(rundt) omkring ; at home , hemma (indicating rest , like several
other adverbs ending in a, while without the a they indicate mo-
tion); away, bort, borta; back, tillbaka; below, nere ; down, ned ;
far, langt borta, fjarran; here, hair; home, hem; in, in, inne ;
near, nar; nowhere, ingenstades ; out, ut, ute ; past, forbi; there,
de.r ; thither, dit ; up, up, uppe ; where, hvar ; within, inne.

Time. About, omkring; afterwards, sedan; again, igen, ater ;
always, alltid ; already, redan; before, fbrut; early, tidigt, bittida;
last year, ifjor; late, sent; long, lange ; nearly, nastan ; never,
aldrig ; now, nu; often, ofta; once, en gang; sometimes, stundom;
soon, snart ; still, cinnu ; the day after to-morrow, i ofvermorgon ; the
day before yesterday, forgar; then, da,, pa, den tid ; this evening,
iafton; this morning, i morse; to-day, idag; to-morrow, i mor-
gon; twice, tva gangar ; when (interrog.) nar; yesterday, igar.

Manner, Degree, etc. A little, nagot ; also, ochsa; also not,
lialler icke ; altogether , alltsammans ; broken (in two) , i sar ;
down, downhill, nedat, nedat backen; how, hunt; little, lidet ;
much, mycket ; no, nej ; not, icke ; not at all, slatt icke ; of course,
naturligtvis ; only, blott, endast; particularly, synnerligen; partly,
dels; perhaps, kanske ; possibly, mbgligen; probably, sannolikt ;
quickly, fort, hurtigt; so, thus, saledes; softly (gently, slowly),
sakta; straight on, rakt fram; together, ihop, tillsammans; too,
for ; too much, for mycket; up, uphill, uppat, uppat backen; very,
mycket ; why, hvar for ; yes, ja, jo (the latter in answer to a question
in the negative or expressing doubt).

Prepositions. About, om ; above, ofuer; after, efter; at, pa,,
vid; at (of time), om; behind, bak; between, mellan; by, at the
house of, hos; by, near, vid, ndra ; by, past, forbi; during, om,
under; for, before, for; from, fran; in, i; instead of, i stalletfbr;
near, nara, vid; of, from, af; on, pa; over, bfver ; past, forbi;
round, rundt om; since, sedan; through, genom; till, till, intill ;
to, till; towards, emot; under, under; upon, pa; with, med.

Conjunctions. After, sedan; although, ehuru; and, och ; as,
da; as — as, so, — som ; because, emedan; before, for; but, men;
either — or, antingen — eller ; for, thi ; if, om ; in order that, foratt ;
or, eller; since (causal), emedan; since (of time), sedan; so, sa ;
than, tin; that, att ; till, until, tills; when (with past tense), da;
when (with present or future), nar ; where, hvar; while, medan.

Interjections. Ah , alas , ack ; indeed , ja sa , verkligen ; of
course, naturligtvis , ja visst, bevars ; pardon, ursakt; please, var
so, god; thanks, (jag) tackar , taekar bdmjukast ('most humbly');
true, del ar sandt ; what a pity, del ar synd I

Vocabulary,

NOKWEGIAN.

English.

Swedish.

Omtrent (adv.); on.

i About.

Omkring ; om.

(prep.)-

Ovenpaa (adv.); ovei

(prep.).
Ledsage (p. 6).

• Above.

Ofvanpa; ofver.

Accompany.

Beledsaga.

Vant til.

Accustomed to.

Van till.

Fordel (-en).

Advantage.

Fordel (m.).

Efter (adv.) ; efterat After.

Efter ; sedan.

(conj.).

Eftermiddag (-en).

Afternoon.

Eftermiddag (m.).

Siden efter.

Afterwards.

Sedan.

Alter, igjen.

Again.

Igen, titer.

Behagelig.

Agreeable.

Angenam, behaglig

Ak.

Ah, alas.

Ack.

Stige ned (p. 6).

Alight.

Stiga ned (p. 12).

Noget.

A little.

Nagot.

Ogsaa ; heller ikke.

Also ; also not.

Ochsa ; hiiller icke,

Allerede.

Already.

Redan.

Skjendt.

Although.

Ehuru.

I Alt, i det hele tagit.

i Altogether.

Alltsammans.

altsammen.

Altid.

Always.

Alltid.

Blandt.

Among.

Ibland.

Morsom.

Amusing.

Rolig.

Og.

And.

Och.

Kjedelig.

Annoying.

Fbrtretlig.

Svar (-et, pi. Svar).

Answer.

Svar (n.).

Arm (-en, -e).

Arm.

Arm (m.).

Omkring.

Around.

Omkring.

Ankomme (p. 6).

Arrive.

Ankomma (p. 12).

Da ; saa — som.

As ; as — as.

Da ; sa — som.

Stige (p. 6).

Ascend, mount.

Stiga (p. 12).

1 Land, paa Landet.

Ashore (go), — (be)

. I land ; pa. landet.

Sparge (p. 6).

Ask.

Fraga (p. 12).

J. paa, ved ; (of time) At.

Pa, vid ; om.

om.
Hjemme (p. 8).

At home.

Hemma (p. 14)

Vakke (p. 6).

Awake, to (trans.).

Vacka (p. 12).

Bort, borte.

Away.

Bort, borta.

Axel (-en, Axler).

Axle.

Axel (m.).

Tilbage.

Back.

Tillbacka.

Daarlig, ond.

Bad.

Dalig.

Saek (-ken, -ke).

Bag.

Sack, pase (m.).

Banksed-el(-eln,-ler)

. Banknote.

Bankseddel (m.).

VOCABULARY.

Barometer.
Basin.

Basket.

Bath.

Beautiful.

Because.

Become.

Bed.

Beef, beefsteak.

Beer.

Before.

Norwegian. English.

Barometer (-ret, -re).
Bolle (-n, -r), Vand-

tad (-et, pi. id.).
Kurv (-en, -e).
Bad (-et, Bad).
Vakker, deilig.
Fordi.

Blive (p. 7).
Seng (-en, -e).
Oxekjed (-et) ; bifstek.
01 (-let).

Fer(&Ay.); /brfprep. ).
Bede (p. 7).
Bag.

Troe (p. 7).
Nedenunder.
ICeie (-n, -r).
Mellem.

Blaabar (-et, pi. id.).
Itegning (-en, -er).
Binde (p. 7).
Svart,

Urhane (-en, -er).
Sengtwppe (-et, -er).
Blase (p. 7).
Blaa.
Kost (-en); ombord.

Baad (-en, -e).

Myr (-en).

Koge (p. 7).

Bog (-en, Beger).

Stevler.

Flaske (-n, -r).

Out (-ten, -ter).

Brandevm (-en), Cog-
nac.

Bred (-et) ; Smerre-
bred.

Bra>kke , stage itu
(p. 7).

Frukost (-en).

Bro (-en, -er).

Temme (-n, -r) ; Ri-
devei (-en, -e).

Bringe (p. 7). Bring.

Behind.
Believe.
Below.
Berth.
Between.
Bilberry.
Bill, account-
Bind.
Black.
Blackcock.
Blanket.
Blow.
Blue.
Board (food) ; on

board.
Boat.
Bog.
Boil.
Book.
Boots.
Bottle.
Boy.
Brandy.

Bread ; bread and

butter.
Break.

Breakfast.

Bridge.

Bridle ; bridle-path.

Swedish.

Barometer (m.).
Fat, backen (n.).

Korg (m.).

Bad (n.).

V acker, skbn.

Emedan.

Blifva (p. 12).

Sang (m.).

Oxkbtt.

6l (n.).

Forut; for.

Bedja(p. 12),

Bak.

Tro, mena.

Nere.

Koj (m.).

Mellan.

Blabar (n.).

Rdkning (m.).

Binda(p. 12).

Svart.

Tjdder (m.).

Sdngtacke (n.),

Blasa (p. 12).

Bla.

Kost (m.); ombord.

Bat (m.).

Oyttjafi.), sump(m.).

Koka (p. 12).

Bok (m.).

Stbflar.

Butelj (m.).

Oosse (m.).

Branvin (m.).

Brbd ; smbrgas.

Bryta (p. 12),

Frokost (m.).
Bro (f.).
Tom(m.); ride-vag.

Bringa (p. 12).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

Itu.

Bcek (-ken, -ke).

Broder , Bror (-en,

Breder).
Berste (-en, -er).
Men.

Smer (-et).
Kepe (p. 7).
Ved (near) ; forbi

(past.); /ws(at the

house of).
Raabe (p. 7).
Lys (-et).
Hue (-en, -er).
Tiur (-en, -er).
Agt (-en) ; tag Bern i

Agt.
Agtsom.
Vogn (-en, -e).
Kariol (-en, -er).
Bare (p. 7).
Kjarre (-n, -er) ;

Stolkjarre.
Bestemt.
Stol (-en, -e).
Skifte, (money) vexle

(p. 7).
Smaapenge.
Pris (-en, -er).
Billig.
Ost(-en); Gammelost.

Kirsebcer(-et ; pi. id.).
Kylling (-en, -er).
Barn (-et, Bern).
Cigar (-ren, -rer).
Klasse (-n, -r); ferste,

anden KlassensBil-

jet.
Ren.
Klar.
Klceder.

Multebmr{-et, pl.id.).
Kiole (-n, -r).
Torsk (-en, -e).
Kaffee (-n).

English.
Broken (in two).
Brook.
Brother.

Brush.

But.

Butter.

Buy.

By.

Swedish.
Isar.

Back (m.).
Broder (m.).

Borste (m.).

Men.

Smor (n.).

Kbpa (p. 12).

Ved, nara ; forbi ; hos.

Call, shout.

Candle.

Cap.

Capercailzie.

Care ; take care.

Careful.

Carriage.

Carriole.

Carry.

Cart; cart with seats,

Certain, decided.
Chair.
Change, to.

Change, small money.

Charge.

Cheap.

Cheese ; sweet goats'

milk cheese.
Cherry.
Chicken.
Child.
Cigar.
Class ; first , second

class ticket.

Clean.

Clear.

Clothes.

Cloudberry.

Coat.

Cod.

Coffee.

Bopa (p. 12).

Ljus (n. ; I. mute).

Hufva (f.)

Tjader (m.).

Akt (m.) ; taga sig i

akt.
Aktsam, sorgfallig.
Vagn (m.).
Karriol (m.).
Bara (p. 12).
Karra (f.).

Bestamd.
Stol (m.).
Bysta , forandra ;

vexla (p. 12).
Smapenningar.
Pris (n.).
Billig.
Ost (m.).

Kersbar (n.).
Kyckling (m.).
Barn (n.).
Cigarr (m.).
Klassfm."); en biljett
forsta, andra klass.

Ren.
Klar.
Klader.
Hjortron (n.).
Rock (m.).
Kabiljo (m.).
Kaffe (n.).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.
Kold ; jeg fryrer.
Komme (p. 7).
Behagelig.
Sadvanlig , alminde

lig.
Selskab (-et, -er).
Talle (p. 7).
Land (-et, -e).
Koste (p. 7).
Ko (-en, Keier).
Flede (n).
Sprcekke (-n, -r).
Kop (-pen, -pe).
Bibs {-et; pi. id.)

(rede, svarte).
Skjare (p. 7).
Daglig.

Fare (-n, -er) ; farlig.
Mark; Merkhed.

Batter (-en, Detre).

Dag (-en, -e).

Kjar (beloved); dyr

(dear in price).
Dyb.
Forlange (p. 7).

Stige ned (p. 7).
Forskjellig.
Vanskelig.
Middagsmad (-en, -e),

Middag.
Smudsig.
Stige af (p. 7).
Afstand (-en).
Gjere (p. 7).
Lcege (-n, -r).
Hund (-en, -e).
Tier (-en, -e).
Dobbelt.
Ned , nede ; nedad

(Bakken).
Klcede (-t, -r).
Drikke (p. 7).
Kjere (p. 7).
Kudsk (-en, -e).

English.
Cold ; I am cold.
Come.

Comfortable.
Common, usual.

Company.

Count, to.

Country.

Cost, to.

Cow.

Cream.

Crevasse.

Cup.

Currant (red, black),

Cut.

Daily.

Danger; dangerous.

Dark; darkness.

Daughter.

Day.

Dear.

Deep.

Demand, ask (a price

etc.).
Descend.
Different.
Difficult.
Dinner.

Dirty.

Dismount.

Distance.

Do, to.

Doctor.

Dog.

Door.

Double.

Down; downhill.

Dress.

Drink, to.

Drive (a carriage).

Driver.

Swedish.

Kail ; jag fryser.
Komma (p. 12).
behaglig.
Allmdn, vanlig.

Sallskap (n.).

Talja (p. 12).

Land (n.).

Kosta (p. 12).

Ko (f.).

Oradde (m.).

Spricka (f.).

Kop (m.).

Korinter (pi.), Vin-

bccr (n.).
Skara (p. 12).
Daglig.

Fara (f .) ; farlig.
Mbrk, dunkel ; marker

(n.).
Dotter (f.).
Dag (m.).
K'dr ; dyr.

Djup (d mute).
Fordra (p. 12).

Stiga ned (p. 12).

Atskillig.

Svar.

Middag, middags-

maltid (m.).
Smutsig. 'j
Stiga ned (p. 12).
Afstand (n.).
fibra (p. 12).
Lakare (m.).
Hund (m.),
Dorr (f.). '
Dubbel.
Ned.

Klade (n.).
Dricka (p. 12)
Kbra (p. 12).
Kusk (m.).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

Tar.

Terre (p. 7).

Om, under.

Stev (-en, or -et).

Tidlig (adj.); tidligt,

betids (adv.).
0stlig, estre.
Let.
Spise, cede (p. 7).

Aeg(-get, Aeg);bledt-

kogte, hoard kogte,

Speilagg.
Enten — eller.
Elsdyr (-et, Elsdyr).
Engelsk ; Engelsk-

mand (-en, -mcend).
Nok.

Convert (-en, -er).
Omegn (-en).
Aften (-nen, -ne) ,•

Kvald (-en, -e).
Over alt.
Langt ; bevars; langt

hervra.
Betaling (-en, -er),

Pris (-en,-er); Pris-

Moderation (-en).
Kost (-en), Spise (-n,

-r).
Oaard (-en, -e).
Hurtig.
Fader, Far (-en,

Fadre).
Besvcer (-et).
Trent.

Trygte (p. 7).
Drikkepenge (-n, pi.

id.).
Farge (-n, -r) ; Sund

(-et, pi. id.).
Faa.

Mark (-en, -er).
Finde (p. 7).
Ild (-en).
Fast.

English.
Dry (adj.).
Dry, to.
During.
Dust.
Early.

Eastern.
Easy.
Eat, to.

Egg ; soft, hard,
poached eggs.

Either — or.
Elk.

English ; English-
man.
Enough.
Envelope.
Environs.
Evening.

Everywhere.

Far ; far from it ; far

from here.
Fare (railway, etc.) ;

reduction of fare.

Swedish.
Torr.

Torka (p. 12).
Om, under.
Stoft (n.).
Tidig (adj.); tidigt,

bittida (adv.).
Ostlig, oster ut.
Latt.

Spisa (p. 12) ; dta
.. (P- 12).
Agg (n.) ; los-kokta,

hard-kokta , stekta

agg.
Antingen — eller.
Elg (m.).
Engelsk ; Engelsman

(m.).
Nog.

Kuvert (m.).
Omliggande trakt{m.~).
Afton (m.).

Ofverallt.

Langt borta, fjdrran.

Betalning (f .) , pris
(n.).

Fare (food).

Farm-house.

Fast.

Father.

Fatigue.
Fatigued.
Fear, to.
Fee, gratuity.

Ferry.

Few.
Field.
Find, to.
Fire.
Firm.

Spis (m.).

Oard (m.).
Hurtig.
Fader (m.).

Mbda(i.), besvarfn.).

Trott.

Frukta (p. 12).

Dr ickspenningar(jp\. ).

Farja, (f.).

Fa.

Fait (n.).
Finna fp. 12).
Eld (m.).
Fast.

II*

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.
Fiske.
Fisk (-en, -e) ; Fiske-

krog (-en,-e); Fiske-

snere (-n, -r); Fiske-

stange (-stanger).
Flad.

Flynder (-ren, -re J.
Blomst (-en, -erj.
Flue (-n, -r).
Taage (-n).
Felge (p. 7).
Fod (-en , Fedder) ;

til Fods.
Thi ,■ (in front of) for.
Glemme (p. 7).
Gaf-fel (-len, -ler).
Fryse (p. 7).
Frisk, fersk.
Ven (-nen, -ner).
Frugt(-en, -er);Bed-

gred (-et).
Fuld, fuldstmndig.
Fra.

Vildt ; Leg (-en, -e).
Grind (-en, -ar), Port

(en, -e).
Flor (-et).
Herre (-n, -r).
Faa; stige ned ; stige

ind; stige op;

komme frem.
Pige, Jente (-n, -r).
Give (p. 7).
Brm (-en, -er), Jekel

(-len, -ler).
Glad ; det glaeder mig.
Glas (-et, Glas).
Handsker.
Gaa (p. T).
God.

Grces (-et).
Slk (-en, -e).
Smerelse (-n).
Gren.
Gevmr(-et -er) ; 'Krudt

(-et).

English.

Swedish.

Fish, to.

Fiska.

Fish ; fishing - hook

; Fisk (m.).

fishing-line; fishing'

rod-

Flat.

Jamn.

Flounder.

Flundra (f.).

Flower.

Blomma (f.).

Fly.

Fluga (f.).

Fog.

Dimma (f.).

Follow, to.

Fblja (p. 12).

Foot; on foot.

Fot (pi. f otter); till

fots.

For.

Thi; for.

Forget.

Glomma (p. 12).

Fork.

Gaffel (m.).

Freeze.

Frysa (p. 12).

Fresh.

Frisk, farsk.

Friend.

Van (m.))

Fruit; fruit-jelly.

Frukt (m.).

Full, complete.

Full.

From.

Fran.

Game ; a game.

Vildbrad (n. ).

Gate.

Port (m.).

Gauze. Flor (n.).

Gentleman. Herre (m.).

Get; get down; get Fa,- stiga ned, in,
in ; get up ; get on. app; komma fram.

Girl.

Give.

Glacier.

Glad ; I am glad.

Glass.

Gloves.

Go, to.

Good.

Grass.

Grayling.

Grease.

Green.

Gun ; gunpowder.

Flicka (f.).
Gifva (p. 12).
Isberg (n.).

Glad, fbrnojd.

Glas (n.).

Handskar (pi.).

Ga (p. 12).

God.

Gras (n.).

Harr (m.).

Smorja (f.).

Gron.

Gevar(n.y, krut (n.).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.
Haar (-et, -e).
Skinke (-n, -r).
Haand ('-en, Hander).
~Lommet0rkla.de (-t,

-r).
Hare (-n, -r).
Seletei (-et).
Hat (-ten, -te).
He (-et).
Hjerpe (-n, -r).
Hoved (-et, -er).
Tung.

Hjalpe (p. 7).

Her.

Sild (-en; Sild).

.Hei.

Bakke (-n, -r); bakket.

■Hyre (p. 7).

Holde (p. 7).

Hjem.

Arlig.

Krog (-en, -e).

Haabe (p. 7).

Heat (-en, -e).

Hid, varm.

Time (-n, -r).

Hus (-et, Hus).

Hvorledes.

Sulten.

Mand (-en, Mand).

Js (-en) ; Isexe (-n,
-r).

Om, dersom, hvis.

Ilde (adj. sjuk).

Strax.

I; (adv.) ind, inde.

For at.

Ih; ja saa; virkelig.

Blcek (-ket).

Station (-en , -er),
Ojcestgiveri (-et, -er)
Hotel (-let, -ler).

Vert (-en, -er).

Istedenfon

Tolk (-en, -e).

English.

Hair.
Ham.
Hand.
Handkerchief.

Hare.

Harness.

Hat.

Hay.

Hazel-hen.

Head.

Heavy (rough,

hilly).
Help.
Here.
Herring.
High.

Hill ; hilly.
Hire.
Hold.
Home.
Honest.
Hook.
Hope, to.
Horse.
Hot.
Hour.
House.
How.
Hungry.
Husband.
Ice ; ice-axe.

If.

111.

Immediately.

In.

In order that.

Indeed.

Ink.

Inn.

Innkeeper.
Instead of.
Interpreter.

Swedish.
Bar (n.).
Skinka (f.).
Hand (f. ; hander).
Nasduk (m.).

Hare (m.).
Seldon (n.).
Hatt (m.).
Haj (m.).
Hjerpe (m.).
Hufvud (n.).
steep, Tung.

Hjelpa (p. 12).

Har.

Sill (f.).

Hoi.

Baeke (m.).

Hyra (p. 12).

Holla (p. 13).

Hem.

Arlig.

Krok (m.).

Hoppas (p. 13).

Hast (m.).

Het, varm.

Timma (f.).

Hus (n.).

Hum.

Hungrig.

Man (m. ; miin).

Is (m.).

Om.

Sjuk.
Genast.

I; in, inne (adv.).
For att.

Ja sa; verkligen.
Black (n.).
Qastg ifvaregard ,
vardshus (n.).

Vard (m.).
/ stallet for.
Tolk (m.).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

Jem.
0(-er),Holm(-en,-e);

Skjcer (-et, Skjar);

Skjargaard (uden-
skjars, indenskjars).
Reise (-n, -r).
Krukke (-n, -r).
Juli (-en).
Springe (p. 7).
Juni (-en).
Beholde (p. 7).
Kjed-el (-len, -ler).
God, venlig.
Konge (-n, -r).
Kniv (-en, -e).
Banke (p. 7).
Vide (a fact) ; kjende

(a person) (p. 7).
Dame (-n, -r); Freken

(-en, -er).
Se (-en, -er) ; Vand

(-et, -e).
Land (-et, -e).
Sprog (-et, Sprog).
Stor.

Sidst; ifjor.
Sent.

Latgge (p.^7).
Lcere (p. 7).
Mindst; idetmindste.
Forlade; efterlade.

English.

Iron.

Island ; rocky island ;
belt of islands (out-
side , inside the
belt).

Journey.

Jug.

July.

Jump.

June.

Keep, to.

Kettle.

Kind.

King.

Knife.

Knock.

Know.

Lady ; young lady.

Lake.

Land.

Language.

Large.

Last ; last year.

Late.

Lay, put.

Learn.

Least ; at least.

Leave ; leave behind.

Igjen, tilovers.
Venstre.
Ben (-et, -e).
Lade (p. 7);

(p. 7).
Brev (-et, -e).
Flat, jaevn.
Ligge (p. 7).
Tcende.

Lys (-et, Lys).
Let.

Klar, lys.

Lef t(remaining over).
Left (hand).
Leg.
slippe Let ; let go, let fall.

Letter.

Level.

Lie.

Light, kindle.

Light (subst.).

Light (in weight),

easy.
Light (in colour),

clear, bright.

Swedish.

Jem.

6 (f.); 8fear(n.); sfear-

gard (utomskars,

inomskars).

Resa (f.).
Kruka (f.).
Juli (m.).
Springa.
Juni (m.).
Behalla (p. 13).
Kittel (m.).
God, vanlig.
Konung (m.).
Knif (m.).
Klappa (p. 13).
Vela; kanna (p. 13).

Dama (f .), frbken (f .).

Sjo (m.).

Land (n.).

Sprak (n.).

Stor.

Sista; ifjor.

Sent.

Lagga (p. 13).

Lara (p. 13).

Minsta ; i del minsta.

Lemna; lemna gvar

(p. 13).
Igen, gvar.
Vemtra.
Ben (n.).
Lata (p. 13); slappa

(p. 13).
Bref (n.).
Jamn.
Liggar (p.).
Tanda (p. 13).
Ljus (n.J.
Latt.

Klar, ljus.

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian. English.

Lige. Like (adj.).

Synes, like (p. 7). Like, to.
Liden (pi. srnaa ; adv. Little.

lidt).
Logi(-et;Tpmn.lozhee), Lodging.

Kvarter (-et, -e).
Lang. Long.

Les. Loose, slack.

Tabe (p. 7). Lose, to.

Lav. Low.

Tei (-et). Luggage.

Make, see do.
Mand (-en, Mcend). Man.
Kort,Landkort(et,-e). Map.
Myr (-en). Marsh.

Fyrstikker. Matches.

Mening (-en, -er), Be- Meaning.

tydning (-en, -er).
Kjed. Meat.

Istandsatte, reparere, Mend.

udbedre.
Sendebud , Forbud Messenger.

(-et, pi. id. J.
Middag (-en). Midday.

Midnat (-ten). Midnight.

'"™"1"*'' (-awe/. miui.

Mil (-en, Mil or Mile). Mile

Melk (-en).
Tage feil (p. 7).

Milk.
Mistake ,

mistake.
Moment.
Money.
Month.
Moon.
More.
Most.

0ieblik (-ket, -ke),

Penge (-n, Penge)

Maaned (-en, -er)

Maane (-n, -r).

Mer (pi. flered).

Mest (pi. fieste). mosi.

Moder, Mor (-en, Me- Mother

dre).
Stige, sidde op (p. 7). Mount
Fjeld (-et, -e). **«-.,*.*.

Meget.
Senep (-en).
Faarekjed (-et).
Negl (-en, -e).
Navn (-et, -e).
Kalde ; hedde (p. 7)

Mountain.
Much.
Mustard.
Mutton.
Nail.
Name.

Name , call ;
named.

Swedish.
Lik.

Tycka (om), likna.
Litenfjpl.sma); lidet.

Boning (f.).

Lang.

Los.

Forlora (p. 13).

Lag.

Bagage (n.).

Man (m. ; man).
Karta (f.).

Sumpfm.), traskfn.).
Tandstickor.
Mening (f.), betydning

(f.).
Kbtt (n.).
Satta i stand; re-

parera.
Bud (n.).

Middag (m.).
Midnatt (f.).
Mil (f.).
Mjolk (f.).
make a Misstaga sig(jp. 13).

Ogonblick (n.).

Penningar.

Manad (m.).

Mane (m.).

Mer, rnera (pi. flera\

Mest, mesta(]>\. fiesta).

Moder (f. ; modre).

Stiga, sittaupp(j>. 13).
Fjall (n.).
Mycket.
Senap (m.).
Farkbtt (n.).
iVa^eZ (m.).
Namn (n.).
to be Kalla; heta (p. 13).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

English.

Swedish.

Nar, ved.

Near.

Nara, ved.

Ncesten.

Nearly.

Ndstan.

Synaal (-en, -e).

Needle

Synal (f.).

Narhed (-en).

Neighbourhood.

Orannskap (n.).

Oam (-et , Gam).

, Net.

Nat, gam (n.).

Net (-et, Net).

Aldrig.

Never.

Aldrig.

Avis (-en, -er).

Newspaper.

Tidingsblad (n.).

Nceste.

Next.

Nasta.

Natt (-en, Natter);

Night ; at night.

Natt (f.; natter) ; om

orn Natien.

natten.

Nej.

No.

Nej.

Stei (-en) , Bulder

Noise.

Buller (n.).

(-ret).

Middag (-en).

Noon.

Middag (m.).

Nord (-en); nordlig,

, North ; northern.

Nord (m.).

nordre.

Norsk.

Norwegian.

Norsk.

Ikke ; slet ikke.

Not ; not at all.

Icke; sldtt ieke.

Nu.

Now.

Nu.

Ingensteds.

Nowhere.

Ingenstades.

Aare (-n, -r).

Oar.

Ara (f.).

Klokken; Klokken er O'clock; itis4, 5. 15.

, Klockan; klockan Sr

fire, et kvarter til

! 6. 30, 7. 45 o'clock

fyra, en qvart ofver

sex, halv syv, trt

fern , half sju , tre

kvarter til otte.

qvart pa atta.

Af ; naturligvls.

Of; of course.

Af; naturligtvis, ja
visst, bevars.

Kontor (-et, Kontor).

, Office (counting-
house).

Kontor (n.).

Embede (-t, -r).

Office (appointment),

, Embete (n.).

Ofte, tidt.

Often.

Ofta.

Olie (-n.)

Oil.

Olja (f.).

.Qammel.

Old.

Qammal.

Paa.

On.

Pa.

Engang.

Once.

En gang.

Kun.

Only.

Blott ; endast.

Aaben.

Open (adj.)

Oppen.

Aabne (p. 7).

Open, to.

Oppna (p. 13).

Eller.

Or.

Eller.

Ligeover for.

Opposite.

Midtemot.

Bestille (p. 7).

Order, to.

Bestalla (p. 13).

Over.

Over, upwards of.

Ofver.

Ud, ude.

Out.

Vt, ute.

Pandekage (-n, -r).

Pancake.

Pannkaka (f.).

Paplr (-et).

Paper.

Papper (n.).

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian .
Forladelse (-n), Til-

givelse (-n).
Prcestegaard (en-, -e).
Ismr.
Dels.

Agerhene (-n, -r).
Forbi.

Betale (p. 7).
Betaling (-en, -er).
Bonde (-n, Bender).
Pind (-en, -e), Stift

(-en, -er).
Pen (-nen, -ne).
Folk (-et, Folk).
Peb-er (-ren).
Kanske, maaske.
Person (-en, -er).
Fotograft (-en, -er).
Stykke (-n, -r).
Brygge , Landings-

brygge (-n, -r).
Lods (-en, -er ; pron.

Los).
Naal (-en, -e).
Pibe ('-to, -r).
Sted (-et, -er), Plads

(-en, -er).
Tallerken (-en,-er).
Behagelig.
Veer saa god, veer saa

artig.
Forneielse (-n, -r).
Heiflig.
Fattig.

Barer (-en, -e).
Mulig ; muligvls.
Porto (-en); Frimcerke

H, -r).
Skydsgut (-ten, -ter).
Skydsskaffer (-en, -e).
Postkontor (-et).
8kydsstation(-en, -er;

pron. shess - stas-

hoon), Skifte.
Potete (-n, -r), Kar-

tof-fel (-len , -ler).

English.
Pardon.

Parsonage.

Particularly.

Partly.

Partridge.

Past.

Pay, to.

Payment.

Peasant.

Peg, pin.

Pen.

People.

Pepper.

Perhaps.

Person.

Photograph.

Piece.

Pier.

Pilot.

Pin.

Pipe.

Place.

Plate.

Pleasant.

Please.

Pleasure.
Polite.
Poor.
Porter.

Possible ; possibly.
Postage ; postage-
stamp.
Post-boy.
Post-master.
Post-office.
Posting-station.

Potato.

Swedish.
Vrsakt (f.).

Prestgard (m.).
Synnerligen.
Dels.

Rapphons (n.).
Forbi.

Betala (p. 13).
Betalning (f.).
Bonde (m.).
Pinne (m.).

Penna (f.).
Folk (n.).
Peppar (m.J.
Kanske.
Person (m.).
Fotograft (f.).
Sty eke (n.).
Bro (t.).

Lots (m.J.

Nagel ; spik (m.j.
Pipa (f.).
Plats (m.).

Tallrik (m.j.
Angenam.
Var sa god.

Fbroielse (f.).

Hbflig.

Fattig.

Bar are (va.~).

Mbjlig.

Porto (n.); Frimarke

(n.).
Skjutspojke (m.).
Postmastare (m.).
Postkontor (n.).
Skjutsstation (f.).

Potates (pi.).

VOCABULARY,

Norwegian.
Pen, smuk.
Pris (-en, -er).
Rimelig ; rimeligvis.
Vdtale (p. 7).
Udtale (-n).
Proviant (en) , Niste

(-n).
Rype.
Scette (p. 7); spcende

(p. 7).
Hurtig ; hurtigt (fort).
Jernbane (-n , -r) ;

Banegaard (-en, -e) .
.Begn (-en).
Regne (p. 8).
Hinbcer (-et, pi. id. J.
Lase (p. 8).
Fardig.
Regne (p. 8).
Red.

Rensdyr(-et, pi. id.).
Teller, Terminer.
Beheve (p. 8).
Hvile (p. 8).
Komme or gaatilbage.

hen (-en, Len).

Baand (-et).

Rig.

Ride.

Rigtig ; De har Ret.

Heiere.

Elv (-en, -e).

Vei (-en, -e).

Stege.

Vcerelse (-t, -r).

Toug (-et).

Vjcevn , (of water)

urolig.
Rundt om.
Roe (p. 8).
Roerskarl (-en, -e).
Lebe (p. 8).
Sad-el (-len, -ler).
Sikker.

English.
Pretty.
Price.

Probable ; probably.
Pronounce.
Pronunciation.
Provisions.

Ptarmigan.

Put ; put to (horses).

Quick ; quickly.
Railway ; railway-
station.
Rain.
Rain, to.
Raspberry.
Read, to.
Ready.
Reckon, to.
Red.

Reindeer.
Reins.
Require.
Rest, to.
Return (v. i.).

Reward, wages.

Ribbon.

Rich.

Ride.

Right; you are right.

Right (hand).

River.

Road.

Roast, to.

Room.

Rope.

Rough.

Round.
Row, to.
Rower.
Run, to.
Saddle.
Safe.

Swedish.

Tack.
Pris (n.).
Sannolik.
Vttala (p. 13).
Uttal (n.).
Proviant (m.).

Ripa (f.).

Satta(jp. 13) , spanna

for (p. 13).
Hurtig; fort, hurtigt.
Jernbana ; bangard

(m.).
Regn (n.).
Regna (p. 13).
Hallon (n.).
Lasa (p. 13).
Fardig.

Rakna (p. 13).
Rod.

Ren (m.).
Tygel (m.).
Behofva (p. 13).
Hvila (p. 13).
Vanda; resa tilbaka

(P. 13).
Lbn (f.).
Band (n.).
Rik.

Rida (p. 13).
Riktig ; Ni or Herrn

har ratt.
Bbger.

Elf or alf (f. ).
Vag (m.).
Stefea(p. 13).
Rum (n.).
Rep (n.).
Ojamn, (of water)

orolig.
Rundt om.
Ro (p. 13).
Roddare (m.).
Lopa (p. 13).
Sadel (m.).
Saker.

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

Lax (-en, Lax).

Salt (-et, -e).

Sand (-en) ;■ sandig.

Saw (-en).

Sige (p. 8).

Sax (-en, -e).

Se (-en, -er).

Sende (p. 8).

See (p. 8).

Sage (p. 8).

Sjcelden.

Sedge (p. 8).

Tjener (-en, -e),
Dreng (-en , -e) ;
Pige (-n, -r), Jente
(-n, -r).

Stange (-n, Stcenger).

Orund.

Lagen (-et, -er).

Skjorte (-n, -r).

Sko (-en, -e).

Skyde.

Jagt (-en).

Butik (-en , -er) ;

Handler (-en, -e).
Kort.

Hagel (-len).
Lukke (p. 8).
Lukket.
Sjuk.

Side (~n, -r).
Siden (of time); fordi,

efterdi (causal).
Nip (-pet).
Enkelt.

Sest-er (-ren, -re).
Sidde.
Sove.
Langsom.
Byge (intr.) ; rege

(trans.).
Sneppe (-n, -r). ,
Sne (-en).
Sne (p. 8).

.Sao fconj.); saaledes
(thus).

English.
Salmon.
Salt.

Sand; sandy.
Sauce.
Say, to.
Scissors.
Sea.

Send, to.
See, to.
Seek, to.
Seldom.
Sell, to.
Servant; servant girl.

Shaft (of a carriage).

Shallow.

Sheet.

Shirt.

Shoe.

Shoot, to.

Shooting (chase).

Shop ; shop-keeper.

Short.

Shot.

Shut, to.

Shut.

Sick.

Side.

Since.

Sip.
Single.
Sister.
Sit, to.
Sleep, to.
Slow.
Smoke, to.

Snipe.
Snow.
Snow, to.
So.

Swedish.
Lax (m.).
Salt (n.).

Sand (m.); sandig.
Sas (m.).
Saga (p. 13).
Sax (f.).
Sjo (m.).
Sanda (p. 13).
Se (p. 13).
Sbka (p. 13).
Saltan.
Salja(jp. 13).
Tjanare (m.); flicka
(f.).

Tistel (m.).

Orund.

Lakan (n.).

Skjorta (f.).

Sko (m.).

Skjuta (p. 13).

Jagt (f.).

Butik (m.); Hand-

lande (m.).
Kort.

Hagel, skrot (n.).
Stanga (p. 13).
Slutet.
Sjuk.
Sida (f.).
Sedan ; emedan.

Sup (m.).

Enkel.

Syster (f.).

Sitta (p. 13).

Sofva (p. 13).

Langsam.

Byka; rbka (p. 13).

Snappa (f .)
Sn'6 (m.).
Snoa (p. 13).
Sa; saledes.

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.
Sabe (-n).
Sagte.
Vndertiden.
Snart.
Bedrevet ; det gjer

mig ondt.
Suppe (-en).
Syd (-en); sydlig,

sendre.
Tale.

Skee (-n, -r).
Vaar (-et).
Staid (-en, -e).
Skifte (-t, -r).

Stave (p. 8).

Afgaa, gaa bort (p.

8).
Dampskib (-et, -e).

Opvarter (-en, -e).
Stok (-ken -ke).
Endnu.

Stigbeile (-n, -r).
Strempe (-n, -r).
Sten (-en, -e) ; stenet.
Standee (p. 8).
Ligefrem.
Rem (-men, -mer).
Jordbcer (-et; pi. id.).
Strem (-men, -me).
Snor (-en, -e) Snere

(-n, -r), Hyssing

(-en).
Stark.

Saadan.
Suk-ker (-ten).
Som-mer (-ren, -re);

om Somren.
Sol (-en, -e).
Aftensmad (-en).

English.
Soap.

Softly (gently, slowly).
Sometimes.
Soon.
Sorry ; I am sorry.

Soup.

South; southern.

Speak, to.

Spoon.

Spring.

Stable.

Stage.

Stamp, see postage
stamp.

Stand, to.

Station , see posting-
station , railway-
station.

Start, to.

Steamer.

Steward.

Stick.

Still.

Stirrup.

Stocking.

Stone ; stony.

Stop, to.

Straight on.

Strap.

Strawberry.

Stream.

String.

Savbdish.
Sapa (f.).
Sakta.
Stundom.
Snart.
Kedrbfvad; det gbr

mig ondt.
Soppa (f.)
Syd (m.).

Tola (p. 13).
Sked (f.).
Var (f .).
Stall (n.).
Skifte (n.).

Sta, (p. 13).

Afga (p. 13).

Angbat (m.), angslup

(steam-launch).
Vppassare (m.).
Staf (m.).
Annu.

Stegbogel (m.).
Strumpa (f., pi. -or).
Sten (m.).
Sta stilla (p. 13).
Rakt fram.
iiem(f.). "
Smultron (n.).
Strom (m.).
Snore (n.).

Strong (also rough,
fatiguing).

Such.

Sugar.

Summer ; in sum-
mer.

Sun.

Supper.

Stark.

Sadan.
Socker (n.).
Sommar (m.) ; om

sommaren.
Sol (f.)%
Aptonmaltid (m.).

VOCABULARY.

NOBWEGIAN.

English.

Swedish.

Bord (-et, Bord).

Table.

Bord (n.).

Tage (p. 8); serge

Take ; take care of.

Taga; hafva omsorg

(p. 8).

om (p. 13).

Taxt (-en, -er).

Tariff.

Taxa (f.).

Thee (-n).

Tea.

Te (n.).

Kikkert (-en, -er).

Telescope.

Teleskop (n.).

End.

Than.

An.

Tak; mange Tak.

Thanks; many thanks

. Tackar;tackarodmju-
kast (mosthumbly).

At.

That.

Att.

lovermorgen.

The day after to-mor-

• I bfvermorgon.

Jforgaas.

row.
The day before yes-
terday.

■ Forgar.

Da, paa den Tid.

Then.

Da, pa, den Tid.

Der.

There.

Der.

Tyk.

Thick.

Tjock.

Tynd.

Thin.

Tunn.

Sag (-en, -er).

Thing.

Sak (f.).

Tcenke (p. 8).

Think.

Tanka (p. 13).

Terstig.

Thirsty.

Torstig.

la f ten; imorges.

This evening; this
morning.

I afton; i morse.

Did.

Thither.

Dit.

Traad (-et, Traad).

Thread.

Trad (m.).

Tre Oange.

Three times.

Tre Ganger.

Gjennem.

Through.

Genom.

Biljet (-tet, -ttr).

Ticket.

Biljett fn.).

Trastt.

Tired.

Trot*.

Fast.

Tight.

Fest.

Indtil ; ikke fer.

Till; not till.

Till, Mill.

Tid (-en, -er).

Time.

Tid (m.).

Til.

To.

Till.

Tobak (-ken).

Tobacco.

Tobak (m.).

Idag ; imorgen.

To-day; to-morrow.

/ dag ; i morgon.

Tilsammen.

Together.

Ihop, tillsammani:

For (meget etc.).

Too (much etc.).

For mycket.

Top (-pen, -pe).

Top.

Spets (m.).

Mod.

Towards.

Emot.

Haandklade (-t, -r).

Towel.

Handduk (m.).

By (-en, -er).

Town.

By (m.).

Tog (-et, Tog).

Train.

Tag (n.).

OversatteUe (-n, ,-r).

Translation.

Ofversattning (f.).

Reise (p. 8).

Travel, to.

Resa (p. 13).

Besvar (-et) ; besvatr- Trouble; trouble-

Besvar (n.).

lig.

some.

Norwegian.

English.

Swedish.

Benklmder.

Trousers.

Benklader.

0rret (-en, -er).

Trout.

Forell (tn.).

Sand; det er sandt.

True; that is true.

Sann ; det ar sannt.

Kuffert (-en, -er).

Trunk.

Koffert (m.).

Sandhed (-en, -er).

Truth.

Sanning (f.).

Forsege.

Try.

Fbrsbka (p. 13).

To Oange.

Twice.

Tva. gangar.

Styg.

Ugly.

Stygg.

Paraply (-en, -er).

Umbrella.

Regnskarm (m.).

Unbestemt.

Uncertain.

Obestammt.

Under.

Forstaae (p. 8).

Understand.

Fbrsta, (p. 13).

Unbehagelig.

Unpleasant.

Obehagelig.

Op, oppe ; opad (Bak-

• Up ; uphill.

Up, uppe ; uppat, up-

ken).

pat backen.

Paa.

Upon

Pa.

Brug(-en), Nytte(-n).

. Use.

Bruk (n.).

Bruge (p. 8).

Use, to.

Bruka (p. 13).

Scedvanlig , alminde-

■ Usual.

Vanlig.

lig.

Dal (-en, -e).

Valley.

Dal (m.).

Vcerdi (-en).

Value.

Vdrde (n.).

Orensager.

Vegetables.

Grbnsaker.

Sler (-et, Sim).

Veil.

Sloja (f.).

Meget.

Very.

Mycket.

Udsigt (-en , -er).

View.

Utsigt (f.).

Landsby (-en , -er)

; Village ; village-

By (m.).

Landhandler (-en
-e).
Eddike (-n).

, shopkeeper.

Vinegar.

Attika (f .).

Beseg (-et, Beseg).

Visit.

Besbk (n.).

Sereise (-n, -r).

Voyage.

Sjbresa (f.).

Vente (p. 8).

Wait.

Vanta (p. 13).

Opvarter (-en, -e).

Waiter.

Uppassare (m.).

Spadsergang(-en, -e)

. Walk..

Spatsergang (m.).

Varm ; jeg har varm.

Warm; I am warm.

Varm.

Vadske (p. 8).

Wash.

Tvatta (p. 13).

Vadskekone (~n, -r).

Washerwoman.

Tvatterska (f.).

Vand (et, -e).

Water.

Vatten (n.).

hokum (-et), 'det lille Water-closet.

A f trade (n.), or det

Bus'.

lilla hus.

Fos (sen, -ser).

Waterfall.

Fors (m.).

Svag.

Weak.

Svag.

Veir (-et).

Weather.

Vader (n.).

Vge (-n, -r).

Week.

Vecka (f .).

Frisk, sund.

Well (in health).

Frisk, sund.

VOCABULARY.

Norwegian.

English.

Swedish.

Bremdf-en, -er),Kilde "Well (subst.)

Brunn(m.), kallaff.).

(-n, -r).

Vel, godt.

Well (adv.).

Veil, godt.

Vest (-en) ; vestlig,

"West; western.

Vest (m.).

vestre.

Fugtig, vaad.

Wet.

Fuktig, vat.

Hjul (-et, Hjul).

"Wheel.

Hjul(n.).

Svebe (-n, -r).

Whip.

Piska (f.).

Naar, hvad Tid.

When (interrog.).

Nar.

Da (with past tense),

"When (conj . )

Da; nar.

naar (with present

or future).

Hvor.

"Where.

Hvar.

Medens.

While.

Medan.

Hvorfor.

Why.

Hvarfor.

Husfru (-en, -er).

Wife.

Husfru, fru (f.).

Vind (-en, -e).

Wind.

Vind (m.).

Vindue (-t, -r).

Window.

Fonsier (n.).

Vin (-en, -e).

Wine.

Vin (n.).

0nske (p. 8).

Wish, to.

Onska (p. 13).

Med.

With.

Med.

Inde.

-Within.

Inne.

Kvinde (~n, -r).

Woman.

Ovinna (f.).

Skov (-en, -e) ; Tiur "Wood; woodgrouse.

Skog (m.) ; tjader

(-en, -er).

(m.).

Ord (-et, Ord).

Word.

Ord (n.).

Arbeide (-t, -r).

Work.

Arbete (n.).

Vcerd.

Worth (adj.).

Vard.

Skrive (p. 8).

Write.

Skrifva (p. 13).

Vrigtig , gal , falsk ;

; Wrong ; I am wrong.

Falsk, origtig ; jag har

jeg har Vrett.

ordtt.

Aar (-et, Aar).

Year.

Ar (n.).

Qui.

Yellow.

Qui.

Igaar.

Yesterday.

Igar.

Ja,jo (the latter being

; Yes.

Ja; jo.

used in answer to a

question in the ne-

gative or express-

ing doubt).

Vng.

Young.

Vng.

Short and Useful Phrases.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Odd Morgen, Aften, Good morning , even- God morgon (pron. gu

Nat. ing, night. morron), afton,natt.

Hvordan hdr De det ? How do you do ? Hur mar Ni (herm) ?

Hur star det till?
Tak skal De have! Thank you. Many Tack! Jag tackar sa

Mange Tak! thanks. mycket.

Varsaagud! Be so good. Please. Varsagod!

Hvad ensker De ? What do you want ? Hvad onskarNi? Hvad

vill Ni ha ?
Hvadbehdger? (sounds What do you wish? Hvad behagas?

almost like Va ba ?)
Taler De Engelsk? Do you speak English ? Talar Ni engelsk?
Nei, men jeg taler lidt No, but I speak a little Nej, men jag talar litet

norsk, svensk. Norwegian , Swed- (final t silent) nor-

ish. ska, svenska.

0nsker De et Varelse? Do you want a room? Onskar Ni ett rum?
Hvad kan jeg faa at What can I have to Hvad kan jag fa. att

spise ? (ade is used eat ? ata (or spisa") ?

of animals only).
Givl— Tag!— Stop! Give. Take. Stop. Ge (gif)l — Tag! —

Hall (stopp) !
Det behager mig aide- That (this) does not Det behagar mig alls

les ikke. please me at all. icke.

Forstaar De det ? Do you understand Fbrstar Ni det ?

that?
Er det ikke godt ? Is that not good ? Ar det icke (more com-

monly inte) bra ?
Jo, det er meget godt. Yes, it is very good. Jo, det ar mycket bra.

(Jo is used in reply

to a negative in-
terrogative.)
Hvad hedder dette What is the name of Hvad heter delta stal-

Sted?DenneStation? this place, this sta- le ? den hdr statio-

Hvad hedder Du ? tion ? What is your nen? Hvad heter du?

name ?
Hvad hedder — kaldes What is that in Nor- Hvadheter det pa nor-

— det paa norsk, wegian, Swedish ? ska, pa svenska ?

paa svensk?
Hvorledes synes De How do you like that ? Hvad tycker Ni om

om det? det?

Det behager mig meget I like it very well. Det behagar mig

godt. mycket bra.

Vent lidt! Bi lidt! Wait a little. Vanta litet!

Pas paa ! Take care. Pass pa! (se upp t)

LIST OP PHRASES. 33

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Det er overfledigt. That is superfluous. Det ar ofverflodigt.
Hvem banker paa .Who is that knocking Hvem klappar pa, dbr-

Deren? at the door? ren?

Komind! Come in. Stigin!

Voir saa god, luk De- Please shut the door. Var sa god och stang

ren I dorr en !

Aabn et Vendue 1 Open a window. Oppna ett f'dnster !

Jeg er trait, hulten og I am tired , hungry, Jag ar trbtt, hungrig

terstig. and thirsty. och torstig.

Hvad koster det? What does this cost? Hvad kostar det?

Er alle Pladse op- Are all the places ta- Aro alia platser upp-

tagne ? ken ? tagna ?

Det gjer mig meget I am very sorry for Det gor mig mycket

ondt. that. ondt (ledsen).

Kan De vexle en ti Can you change a ten- Kan Ni vexla en tie-

Kroner-Sedel? crown note for me ? krone-sedel?

Ja , men jeg har ikke Yes, but I have no Ja, men jag har inte

Smaapenge , heller small change. srnamynt.

ikke Skillemynt.
Hvad er Klokken? What o'clock is it? Hvad ar klockan?
Klokken er to ; halv It is two o'clock ; half Klockan ar tu (tva) ;

tolv ; tre Kvarter til past eleven ; a quar- half tolf ; tre qvart

et ; et Kvarter over ter to one ; a quar- pa, (or till) ett ; en

ti ; fern Minutter ter past ten ; five qvart ofver tio ; fern

over fire; mangier minutes past four; minuter ofver fyra ;

tre Minutter i syv. three minutes to fattas tre minuter
seven. i sju.

Jeg vilde gjerne reise I wish to start early. Jag ville gerna resa

tidligt. tidigt.

Jeg vilde gjerne vmk- I wish to be called Jag ville gerna bli

kes. (wakened). vackt.

Naar skal jeg vakke When am I to waken Nar (hur dags) skall

Dem? you? jag vdcka Er?

Klokken sex. At six o'clock. Klockan sex.

Det er for sent. That is too late. Det ar for sent.

Saa maa De komme Come earlier then. Da far Ni komma ti-

tidligere. digare.

0nsker De at spise Do you want break- Onskar (vill) Ni dta

Frokost ? fast ? frukost ?

Ja, Tak! Nei, TakI Yes, thank you. No, Ja, jag tackar ; nej,

{Tak is not used thank you. jag tackar.

alone.)
Der er Drikkepenge. Here is the gratuity. Dar ar drickspengar.
Om Forlddelsel Jeg Excuse me. Vrsdkta! Jag ber om

beder om Vndskyld- ursakt.

ning !

34 LIST OF PHRASES.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Tag det ikke ilde op! Don't take it ill. Tag inte ilia upp !

Det gjer intet. That does not matter. Det goringenting (Ska-

dar inte).

Veiret er idag smukt, To-day the weather is Vadret at i dap vac-
men igaar var det fine, hut yesterday kert, men i gar var
meget stygt ; det reg- it was very bad ; it det mycket daligt ;
nede den hele Dag. rained the whole det regnade hela
day. dagen.

J morgen vil vi have To-morrow will be / morgon fa vi blast.
Blast. windy.

Veiret er merkt, lum- The weather is dull, Vadret ar mulet, qval-
mert, varmt, koldt, sultry, warm, cold, migt, varmt, kallt,
foranderligt , be- changeable, settled. ostadigt, stadigt.
standigt.

Sendenvinden har The south wind brings Sunnanvinden har
Skyer og Regn til clouds and rain. med sig moln och

Felge. regn.

Det bliver kjMigt ; det It is getting cooler; Det blir kyligt ; det
klarer op. it is clearing up. klarnar upp.

Solen gaar ttdligt op. The sun rises early. Solen gar tidigt upp.

Solengaar sildigtned. The sun sets late. Solen gar sent ned.

Om Sommeren i de One can travel com- Om sommaren under
lyse Natter reiser fortably in the light de ljusa natterna
man meget behage- nights of summer. reser man mycket
ligt — hyggeligt. behagligt.

Jeg glader mig meget I am very glad to see Det glader mig mycket
over at seDemigjen. you again. att aterse Er.

Er De syg ? Are you ill ? Ar Ni sjuk ?

Jeg er ikke rask. I am not well. Jag mar inte bra.

Skal jeg gaa efter en Shall I go for a doc- Skall jag ga efter en
Lmge ? tor V lakare ?

Jeg har Tandemne. I have toothache. Jag har tandvark.

Jeg har ingen Feber, 1 have no fever, but Jag har inte nagon
men jeg tranger til I need rest. feber, men jag be-

Hvtle. hbfver hvila.

Lad mig vare alene. Leave me alone. Lat mig vara ensam.

Lev veil Farvel! Farewell. Farval ! Adieu !

Var saa god, vis mig Please show me the Var sa. god och visa
Vejen til N. way to N. mig vdgen till N.

Hvnr kommer De fra ? Where are you coming Hvarifran kommer
from •>. Ni ?

Jeg kommer fra Slot- I come from the castle. Jug kommer f ran slot-
let, tet.

LIST OF PHRASES. 35

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Qaa ligefrem; til Go straight on ; to the Qa rakt frdm; athb-

hejre; til venstre. right; to the left. ger; at venster.

Hvorlangt er der How far is it from Hur langt ar det hari-

herfra til N? here to N ? fran till N. ?

Hvorlmnge beheves, How much time do I Hur lang tid behofs

for at komme til N? need to reach N.? det for att komma

till N. ?
Kan vi finde os tilrette Can we find our way Kunna vi hitta efter

med Kortet ? with the plan (map).' kartan ?

Ved Hjernet maa De You must ask again Vid hornet maste Ni

speirge Dem videre at the corner. fraga (fraga Er for)

frem. vidare.

Qaa altid fremad. Go straight forwards. Oa, alltjamt framat.
Naar kommer Du til- When are you coming Ndr kommer du till-

bage? back? bdka?

Er Herr N. hjemme? Is Mr. N. at home? Ar Herr N. hemma?
Kan jeg faa Hr. N. Can I see Mr. N. ? Kan jag fa, tala med

i Tale ? Herr N. ?

Qlv ham mit Kort. Give him my card. Ge honom mitt kort

(visitkort).
Hvor er PCrtneren? Where is the porter? Hvar ar portvakta-

ren?
Er De fremmed her ? Are you a stranger Ar Ni framling h'dr ?
here ?

Er Be gift ? Are you married ? Ar Ni gift ?

Har De Bern ? Have you any child- Har Ni barn ?

ren?
Jeg har varet gift og I was married and Jag har varit gift och

har et Barn. have one child. har ett barn.

En Sen eller en Dat- A son or a daughter? En son eller en dotter ?

ter?

Opvarter , en Flaske Waiter , a bottle of Kypare, en butelj vin,

Vin , 01, en Kop wine, beer , a cup bl, en kopp kdffe !

Kaffe! of coffee.

0nsker De Hvedebred Do you want wheaten Onskar Ni hvetebrod

dertil, eller Kdger? bread with it, or eller kakor till ?
cake ?
Bring mig en Aqva- Bring me a glass of Ge mig en sup , ett

vit! (en Cognac, en spirits (brandy, glas brannvin, kon-

„Allum", en „Lys- 'Allum', 'Lyshol- jak, etc.

holmer"). mer').

Bring mig Punsch og Bring me some punch Ge mig punsch och

Sodavand. and soda-water. sodavatten.

Spirituoser faas ikke Spirits are not to be Spirituosa kan man

in*

36 LIST OF PHRASES.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

om Lerdcegs Aften got on Saturday icke fa om lordags
og hele Sendagen. evening and Sun- afton (or qvali) och
day. hela sondagen (ge-

nerally pron. son-
dan).

Bring migenhalvPor- Bring me half a por- Oe mig en half portion
Hon af denne Steg, tion of this roast (pron. portshon) af
Potetes og en halv meat , some pota- den har steken , po-
Flask 01 (en halv toes, and half a tatis och en half bu-
01). bottle of beer. telj 61 (en half 61).

Hvor er Spiseseddeln ? Where is the bill of Hvar ar matsedeln ?
fare?

0nsker De BugbrSd Do you want rye- Onskar Ni ragbrod el-
eller HvedebrSd ? bread or wheaten- ler hvetebrod ?

bread?

Jeg ensker BrSd,Smer I want some bread, Jag onskar brod, sm'dr
og Ost. butter, and cheese. och oat.

Hvad synes De om How do you like the Hvad tycker Ni om
Oammelost og Mys- old cheese and the gammal ost och
ost? Myse cheese? mesost?

Den ferste er for barsk The former is too Den forste ar for skarp
og den anden for strong and the lat- och den andre for
sWd. ter too sweet. sot.

Bring mig en Knw, en Bring me a knife, a Qe mig knif och gaff el,
Gaffel,enTdllerken, fork, a plate, a en tallrick, en sked
en Ske og et Glas. spoon, and a glass. och ett glas. Nej,
Nei, heller to Glas. No, better two glas- haldre tva glas !
ses.

Der mangier Salt, Pe- There is no salt, pep- Detfattassalt, peppar,
ber,Sennop,Eddike. per, mustard, vine- senap, attika.
gar.

Har De kogende Have you boiling wa- Har Ni varmt vatten ?
Vand ? ter ?

Bring mig en Pdnde- Bring me a pancake Oe mig en pannkuka
kcege og Sukker; en and sugar; a sau- och socker; en korf,
Pelse, Suppe, Mai- sage , soup , some soppa , vailing ;
kevelling ; Malk og bread. - and - milk ; mjolk och gradda;
Flede; Orent (Oe- milk and cream; gronsaker, etc.
myse) etc. some vegetables.

0nsker De varm Fro- Do you wish a hot Onskar Ni varm fru-
kost,indenDereise? (meat) breakfast host fore resan?
before you start?

Nei, kun enKop Kaffe No, only a cup of cof- Nej, baraenkopp kaffe
og to Mg ; men fee and two eggs ; och tva, agg ; men
haard- , bledkogte but the eggs must hard-kokta , liis-
JEg. behard, soft boiled. kokta agg.

LIST OF PHRASES. 37

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Kan jeg faa Reratg Can I have beat-up Kan jag fa agg-rbra

eller Speilmg ? or poached eggs ? eller stekta agg ?

Hat De Fisk ? Have you fish 1 Har Ni fisk ?

Ja, der er Torsk, Lax, Yes , you can have Ja, det fins torsk, lax,
0rreter, Makrel, torsk (a kind of foreller , makrill,
Hummer, Flyndre cod), salmon, hummer, flundror

og saa videre. mackerel , lobster, och sa vidare.

flounders, etc.
Kan jeg faa noget Can I have something Kanjagfanagonkall-
Koldt, Skinke, Pelse cold ; ham, sausage, mat , skinka , korf
og andet saadant ? or something of that och annat sadant ?
sort?
Vilbekomme ! May it agree with you I Vdlbekomme!

(said on rising from
table after dinner).

Lad vaske mit Lin- Get my things washed. Lai tvatta mitt linne.
ned.

Naar kommer Vasker- When does the wash- Nar kommer tvatter-
konen? erwoman come? skan?

I morgen, om to Dage Everything must be / morgon, om tva dar
maa alt voire far- ready to morrow, maste allt vara far-
dig, in two days. digt (vara i ord-

ning).

Kan jeg stole derpaa? Can I depend upon it? Kan jag lita pa, det?

Jeg har faaet et stort I have made a large Jag har fatt ett stort
Hul i Frakken , i hole in my coat, hat pa, rocken , pa
Kjolen, i Btixerne; dress-coat, trou- fracken, pa, byxor-
lad det straxt sy sers ; get it mend- na ; lat genast laga
samme, reparere. ed at once. det.

Hvor meget er jeg Bern How much do I owe Hur mycket ar jag
skyldig ? you ? skyldig Er ?

Det er for meget , for That is too much, too Det ar for mycket, for
dyrt. dear. dyrt.

Priserne er for heie. The charges are too Prisema aro for hoga.
high.

Vil De snyde mig? Do you want to cheat Vill Ni preja mig?
me?

Bring mit Tei — min Bring my luggage to Skaffa raina saker
Bagage — iHotellet. the hotel. (mitt bagage) till

hotellet.
Hvad er Taxten? What is the regular Hvad ar taxan ?

charge (tariff) ?
Hvad betales for Kjer- What is the charge Hvad betalar man for
sel med KjSretei for the drive for a akning med en en-

38 LIST OF PHRASES.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

forspcendt med en carriage with one spannare , en tva-
eller to Heste ? horse , with two spannare (akdon

horses ? med en, tva hastar)?

Hent mig en Droschke Fetch me a cab from Hemta mig en droska
fra ncermeste Hoi- the nearest stand. fran narmaste hall-
deplads. plats.

Hvormeget betales hen What is the fare there Hvad betalar man (for
ogtilbage — forTur and back? akning) fran och

og Betur? tillbaka?

For lemgere Ture be- For longer drives the For langre turer beta-
tales efter Overens- fares are according lar man efter ofver-
komst. to bargain. enskommelse.

Med Vogne med en Only two grown-up Med en hast befordrar
Best befordres kun persons can be con- manblotttvavuxna
to voxne Personer. veyed in a one- personer.
horse carriage.

Jeg vil kjere timevis. I wish to drive by Jag vill fara pa, tim-
Hvormeget koster time ; what is the me ; hvad kostar det
del per Time ? fare per hour ? i timmen ?

Er der en Bybud, eller Is there a porter here, Fins heir ett stadsbud
en Fiirgemand ? or a boatman '? (en barare) eller en

batkarl (roddare) ?

Vil T)e have Landskyds Do you wish to go by Vill Ni fardas land-
eller Baadskyds ? land or water ? vagen eller sjovagen?

Jeg vil reise med I wish to travel by Jag vill fara med ang-
Dampskibet. the steamboat. baten.

Idag gaar inlet Damp- No steamboat starts I dag gar ingen ang-
skib. to-day. bat.

Da beserg en Baad Then order a boat Bestall da en bat med
med fire Mand (not with four men. fyra karlar (man).

Mand).

Har de Niste med ? Have you provisions Har Ni matsack med ?
with you?

Der er Niste for Dem Here are provisions Har ar matsack for
og for Rorskarlene for you and the Er och roddarna.
(pron. kdrene). rowers.

Den unge Rorskar(l)er The young oarsman is Den unge roddaren ar
megetflinkog staut. very fast and strong. mycket rask och

stark.

Vil vi faa Vind eller Shall we have wind or Favi blast eller regn?
Regn ? rain ?

Fjorden erlidturolig ; The fjord is rough ; Fjarden ar orolig(upp-
der er Belger, there are waves. rord) ; det gar vagor

(boljor).

Da bliver jeg S0syg. Then I shall be sea- Da'blir jag sjosjuk.
sick.

LIST OF PHRASES. 39

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Var saa god , vis meg Please tell \me which Var sa god och visa
Veien til Banegaar- is the way to the mig vagen till ban-
den, station ? garden.^
Naar gaar Toget til When does the train Nar gar taget till N. ?

jy. ? for N. start?

Reiser De medHurtig- Do you travel by the Reser Ni med snallta-
eller del blandede express train or by get eller med blan-
Tog? the mixed train ? dade taget?

Billetkontoreterendnu'She ticket - office is Biljettkontoret ar an-

ikke aabent. not open yet. nu inte bppet.

Naar aabnes det? When is it opened? Nar bppnas det?

En Billet ferste — an- A ticket for N., first- En biljett forsta —
den' — tredje Klasse class, second-class, andra — tredje
tu N. third-class. Mass till N.

Har De Overvagt? Have you over- Har Ni bfvervigt?

weight ?
Hvor er Reg-, Dame- Where is the smoking Hvar ar rbk- , dam-
kupeen ? carriage, the ladies' kupen ?

compartment ?
FrahvilkenKantkom- Which side does the Franhvilket hall kom-

mer Vinden? wind come from? mer^vinden?

Var saa god, luk Vin- Please shut the win- Var sa, god och stang

duet ! dow. fonstret !

Trcekluft er meget A draught is very Drag ar mycket far-

farlig. dangerous. Ugt.

Hvad hedder dette What is the name of Hvad heter den har

Vand , hint Bjerg, this lake , moun- sjbn, det der berget,

denne Station? tain, station? den har stationen?

Er Banen smalsporet? Is this a narrow-gauge Ar delta en smalsparig

line ? bana ?

Hvor mange Klasser How many classes are Hur manga klasser

gives her? there ? fins det har ? ^

Bare to, ire, en. Only two, three, one. Blotl (bara) tva, tre,

en.
Er der et godt Hotel Is there a good hotel Fins det ett godt (bra)
i N? Hvilket er det at N. ? Which is Hotel i N. ? Hvil-
bedste? the best? ket ar det basta?

De er alle gode ; der They are all good ; De aro alia bra ; det
er ingen Forskel. there is no diffe- fins ingen skilnad.

rence.
Tak for behageligt Thank you for your Tack for godt sallskap.

Selskab ! agreeable company.

Behagelig — lykkelig A pleasant, happy Angenam — lycklig —

— Reisel journey. resa!

Jeg gaar tilfods. I go on foot. Jag gar till fots.

Hr. Kondukter,vilDe Guard, ,will you take Herr konduktbr, vill

40 LIST OF PHRASES.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

opbevare mit Tei, care of my luggage Ni (vill Herr kon-
til i Eftermiddag ? till the afternoon ? duktbren) fbrvara

mina saker tills i
eftermiddag ?

Kan jeg faa el Varelse Can I have a room Kan jag fa ett rum
med en Seng — med with one bed, with med en sang — med
to Senge ? two beds ? tva, sangar ?

Bring mig et Lys og Bring me a candle and Skaffa mig ett ljus och
koldt Vand , for at some cold water for kallt vatten till att
vaske mig. washing myself. tvatta mig i.

Hvor er Lokumet, "Where is the water- Hvar ar privetet (af-
Das? closet? tradet)?

Oaa opad, nedad Go upstairs , down- Qa uppfbr, nedfbr
Trappen og derefter stairs , and then trappan och sedan
tilheire, tilvenstre. turn to the right, tillhdger,tillvenster.
left.

Har De en StSvle- Have you a boot-jack ? Har Ni en stbfvel-
knatgt ? knekt ?

Nei, men jeg skal gaa No, but I will call the Nej, men jag vill ropa
efter Oaardskarlen, 'boots', to pull off pa, gardsdrangen,
som skal trakke af your boots. som skall dra af Er

Dem Steivleme. stbflarna.

Jeg forstaar Dem ikke, I do not understand Jag forstar Er inte, Ni
De maa tale heiere you, you must speak maste tala hbgre och
og langsommere. louder and slower. langsammare.

Kan jeg faa en Fe- Can I procure a guide, Kan jag fa en fbrare
rer, en Ledsager, en attendant (to show (vagvisare), en led-
Bcerer? the way), porter? sagare, en barare?

Jeg giver gjerne dob- I am ready to give a Jag ger gerna dubbla
belte Drikkepenge. double gratuity. drickspengar.

Jeg vil saa straxt som I wish as soon as pos- Jag ville sa fort som
muligt have en Kar- sible a carriole with mbjligt fa, en skjuts-
iol og en Hest ; to one horse, two car- karra (karriol) med
Karioler med to rioles with two en hast, tva, karrio-
Heste. hoTses. ler med tva hastar.

Hvad koster Skydsen "What is the fare to Hvad kostar skjutsen
til den nmste Sta- the next station ? tills ndsta Station ?

tion ?

Hvor er Dagbogen ? "Where is the day- Hvar fins dagboken ?
book?

Hos Stationsholderen, At the station- Hos gastgifvaren (ge-
hos Skydsskafferen. master's. nerally pron. yay-

shivaren).

Jeg vil straxt reise vi- I wish to go on at once. Jag vill genast resa
dere. vidare.

LIST OF PHRASES. 41

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

Hvor er Skydskarlen, Where is the driver? Hvararkusken(skjuts-
Outten ? pojken) ?

Det er en god og flink That is a good and fast Bet ar en god och rask
Hest. Hvorgammel horse; how old is hast; hur gammal
er den ? he ? ar han ?

Har Du en Tollekniv ? Have you a knife ? Har du en knif?

Hvor har Stationshol- Where did the sta- Hvar har gastgifvaren
deren kjebtHesten? tion- master buy kopt hasten? Hur
Hvor mange Heste this horse? How manga hastar har
har han? many horses has he? han?

Hesten er doven, der The horse is lazy, he Hasten cir lat, har be-
beheves en Pidsk. needs a whip. Have h'ofs en piska. Har
Har Du en? you got one? dunagon?

De kjerer for hurtigt, You are driving too Ni kor for fort, for
orlangsomt! fast, too slow. langsamt.

Jeg vil gjeme komme I want to get to N. in Jag vill gerna komma
tldligt til N., for at time to catch the tidigt (i god tid) till
naa Dampskibet. steamboat. N.foratthinnamed

angbaten.

Gode Ven ! Kjcere Far Good friend, dear Min kara van, kara
— en Hest! father, a horse ! far, en hast!

De maa vente lidt. You must wait a little. Ni far vanta litet.

Er her i Narheden et Is there a post-office Fins har i narheten en
Postaabneri ? near here ? postanstalt ?

Har De et Brev for Have you a letter for Har Ni (fins har) na
mig? me? got bref till mig ?

Naar kommer Posten When does the dili- Nar kommer posten
til N ? gence for N. arrive ? till N. ?

Faaes her godt Natte- Can I obtain good Kan man heir fa ett
qvarter, godt Natte- night - quarters godt nattlogi?

logis ? here ?

Alle Varelser er op- All the rooms are oc- Alia rum aro upp-
tagne. cupied. tagna.

Jeg har desvmrre glemt I have forgotten my Jag har dessvarre.
min Vadsak ; gaa travelling bag. Go glbmt min resvaska
tilbdge for at hente back and fetch it. (nattsack); ga till-
den. baka om hiimta den.

Jeg har tabt min Rei- I have lost my guide- Jag har fbrlorat min
sebog. Jeg har fun- book. I have found resehandbok. Jag
det den igjen. it again. har funnit rait pa

den igen.

Stands lidt; vi vil Stop a little ; we will Hall (stanna) litet;
vande Hestene. let the horses drink. vi vilja vattna ha-

starna.

Hvad er det der? What is that there ? Hvad ar det der?

Der har gaaet en Skred An avalanche has de- Der har ett ras agt

42 LIST OF PHRASES.

Norwegian. English. Swedish.

ned , en Sneskred, scended there, an rum, ett snoras, tit

en Jordskred. avalanche of snow, jordras.

a landslip. *

Der er en Sister, men That is a sater ; hut Der ar en setter, men

der bor ingen Folk. nohody lives in it. det bor ingen folk

der.
Denne Elv maa vi va- We must wade Den heir elfven (an)

de over. through this river. maste vi vada bfver.

Vi vil gaa over Sne- We will cross the Vi vilja ga bfver sno-

broen. snow-bridge. bron.

Nei, gaa ikke, der er No, do not go, there Nej, get, inte, dar ar

store Huller. are large holes in it. storahal.

Er der Spreekker paa Are there crevasses in Fins det remnor pa

Brteen ? the glacier ? glacieren ?

Man maa sammenbin- We must tie our- Man maste binda sig

des med et Toug. selves together with lillsammans med ett

ropes. tag.

Jeg har et daarligt I have a sore foot; I Jag har ondt i foten;

Ben; jeg har en have a blister, a jag har enblasa, en

Blemme, en Bute. boil. svulst.

I.elpsic: Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel.

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